2011 Ford Explorer Upper Rear Control Arm Bushing (Vibration fixed !)

[@randykish8242]

Holy Moly I thought I was the only one who replaced pretty much the whole front end on my 2013 Explorer only to eventually find out the rear bushings were shot like yours! Thank goodness for Amazon we can get the parts cheaper and do these fixes ourselves. Your videos helped alot. Thanks Man!

[@InTheGarge]

Glad i could help.

[@Domistroit]

excellent work friend thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience you are a great human being

[@InTheGarge]

you are welcome.

[@kyleleasak]

Thanks for the video, just finished my 2013... Video helped, instead of using pipe with the press... I found a socket tad smaller, since the bushing socket is metal, it helped push it out using a, I think it was a 30mm or was it 33... Hmmm... Anyway, Once I had the bushing out, I used the old bushing casing to push the bushings back in... I did remove the silicon seal (on the new bushing) on the side I pushed from. Did both sides in 90 mins. Anyway thanks for the video it started me on the right path.

[@InTheGarge]

Glad it helped. That's the whole idea behind the videos, just to give other people ideas. I'm no pro.

[@kyleleasak]

@@InTheGarge yeah, I should have done a video on troubleshooting the fuel pump/injector. Since there isn't a pressure value on these explorers, you have to craft something up.

[@dustinguy101]

Thanks for the video man. Good work on it. I have the same generation of explorer and just now rented a ball joint press kit from autozone. It’s free upon return within 90 days. Compared to oriellys gives me 2 days to return for refund. Im going to be replacing all 3 of the bushings in the two rear upper control arms. Along with some bushing in the two front lower control arms. There’s two bushings in the front lower control arm that will probably need a different tool other than the u joint we’re using in this video. I’m trying to look into a puller separator kit for the front end bushings.

[@InTheGarge]

How did it go?

[@jamesstewart8744]

thanks, good information on getting past issues!

[@InTheGarge]

Thanks

[@cdnpont]

Thanks for the video. Wondering if you could spare me a reply. I'm getting ready to do a rear axle seal on my 15 sport and I basically have to disassemble the rear suspension except the lower arm to knuckle bolt. My links were recalled, so they should come fairly easy. I'd just like to know how much trouble you had getting the bolt out from the bushing you replaced? Any advice to me? Love the bench "After" shot btw, thats me, but I'm worse! Thanks, Mark.

[@InTheGarge]

Amazingly that bolt was no problem...came out with little fuss, the biggest issue was installing the bushing. after dicking with it what seemed like hours trying to install it from back to front direction i switched to front to back it seemed to go into place much easier. Or vise versa , cant remember now. :) The press is a must have and have something that fits the bushing perfectly ready to go. NOTE: this helped a bit with the vibration...but what really fixed it was changing the FRONT BRAKE ROTORS!! I installed FORD brake rotors and pads that THAT fixed the vibration issue! Who of guessed. ;) Good Luck.

[@cdnpont]

@@InTheGarge Thank you! I have a harmonic with my 15, but not all the time. I think I'm just going to live with for a year or so (hopefully) it as the rest of the car is showing it's age (read turbo wastegates are rattling like crazy, cats are falling apart on the outside). Cheers.

[@brianmerk8953]

Good day. Why would you torcher yourself by replacing the rear upper control arm bushing. You can get a Moog brand new rear lower control arm assembly for just a few more dollars.

[@rhurtadorh32]

Quick question so the dealer replaced the rear toe links on a 2011 ford explorer but the bushing from the knuckle is bad broken so dealer suggested to buy the whole knuckle cant i just replace the bushing but dont knoe part number. Recall on toe links is 19s17

[@InTheGarge]

Dealer will not sell the bushing only. They will sell you the entire knukle. Bushing will need to be bought aftermarket. Its a Dorman part. The part number is in the video.

[@geneyus6411]

DORMAN sells it! So does NAPA

[@johndaniel238]

Thanks for the video...now I know what I'm up against.

[@InTheGarge]

It was a PITA! but it got done. :)

[@411josueh]

Hi. I just went for toe link recall, while at the dealer i was due for a state inspection came to find out i wouldn’t pass because the rear upper control arm has too much play quoted for $689 its for a 2015 ford explorer XLT FWD would this still apply to me, maybe the tech ruled out bad upper control arm but instead is the knuckle bushing?

[@InTheGarge]

2015 and on Ford changed their body style. So I don't know if this will applies to you. Back when I did mine, Ford wont sell just the bushing, I would've had to buy the entire hub which is mucho $$. Went after market and was able to purchase just the bushing. Part number is in the video. Good Luck...post back here what you find. Thanks

[@NevardoCortezLobo]

Can you elaborate on the vibration you felt? I have a similar rear-end-feeling vibration and I thought it was coming from the drive-shaft... Now watching your video makes me wonder if I have the same worn bushing

[@InTheGarge]

I too thought it was the driveshaft and went out and bought a rebuilt one for $700 just to find out that it WASN'T the problem! Hmm...I'll try my best to explain...driving below 30mph no issue between 30ish to 50ish is way most of the vibration would occur and above that the vibration was still there but not as strong. It wouldn't matter if I was accelerating or coasting. Rotating the tires didn't change anything. I did a bunch of work to the Explorer trying to figure out this vibration issue. There was actually 2 issues that were causing this vibration, the one in this video and the motor and transmission especially the lower "torque" mounts.. (there is a video on that also) :) Just keep in mind mine has almost 270,000kms. if yours has less then 100,000 I would have a closer look at wheel balancing. But I'm totally guessing. :)

[@NevardoCortezLobo]

@@InTheGarge Thanks so much for your response! What you describe is exactly what I am experiencing! I ordered just now the bushings from Amazon. If by chance these are not the problem I would have just spent $30 rather than the more costly $700 rebuild solution :) My Explorer just hit the 160,000kms mark so I am pretty strong about the bushings. Really appreciate you sharing your experience in this video!

[@josh1678gt]

Any luck?

[@Darien2025Warren]

Anyone doing this DO NOT push the bushing in from the wrong direction. They are tapered and go in from back of vehicle to front. I did the same mistake and was frustrating as hell. I to had to make my own "cup" to press it in I couldn't find any the right size.

[@InTheGarge]

What TexasRoadRunner said. I ran into this problem also.

[@Darien2025Warren]

@@InTheGarge did you change any of the other bushings in the knuckle other than this one? So far I have changed the upper knuckle bushing as shown in this video, stabilizer links and rear upper control arm bushing( looks like a square) but am still hearing small clunking from the back over small bumps. It does ride quieter than before but trying to remove all the clunking noise. Any advise?

[@InTheGarge]

@@Darien2025Warren I too have changed those parts not for a clunking sound. I was trying to chase down a vibration. Turned out to be some cheap front rotors causing it. Anyways I also had a clunking sound in the back. That was the exhaust hit part of the underbody when going over bumps. I must of slightly bent backing into something. Try this...Grab the tail pipe and move it around. Do it to both sides. And pay close attention and see if you hear anything. Good luck.

[@xDoItAllx]

@@InTheGarge You said front to back in the video. He says back to front. Now I'm confused. My understanding is the old one comes out back to front and the new one goes in front to back.

[@InTheGarge]

@@xDoItAllx hey Josh... when I did the job I didnt realize there was a taper. I was having a hell of time pull it out and putting it back in. And cant say for sure which way it goes in or out, But what a can say is once I switched it went in pretty easy.

[@rhurtadorh32]

What socket is it to remove the control arms?

[@InTheGarge]

Cant remember but 21mm, 19mm, 17mm are your friends.

[@lukepaki7231]

Kia ora. Like n sub

[@InTheGarge]

Thanks!

[@joeyabb1965]

All that work to put a dorman part in….. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@InTheGarge]

I couldn't find anywhere else to buy it. Ford will only sell you the entire Hub. Big $$$$

[@geneyus6411]

Takes 15 min the correct way,lol. Napa sells the part also. Better Quality

[@Darien2025Warren]

@@geneyus6411 bs it does not take 15min still lying to these people🤣

[@geneyus6411]

Pretty sure you weren't supposed to press new part in the blue clips installed, and should have removed the boot when pressing in. You should have learned more about the job 1st! That's why you tore up the boot. That's considered a fail!

[@InTheGarge]

The very first thing in the video was a Warning that I'm not a pro...this is for entertainment only. :) But thanks for the tip. Too late for me but your tip will help others.

[@geneyus6411]

@@InTheGarge Doesn't matter if you are a pro or not. You could have easily NOT torn the boot simply by removing it for installation. SIlicone not going to fix that. I would not be happy with that job if it was my vehicle. 😵

[@Darien2025Warren]

@@geneyus6411 its a good thing it's not your vehicle then 😒