2011Ford F150 Driver Power Window Inoperative

This F150 has a problem with the Driver Power Window not working. Problem turned out to be broken wires between the door and pillar at C210. I've ordered a harness and will post a video when I replace it. Turns out there is also a problem with the power mirror he did not mention. part 2 is here:
• 2011 Ford F150 Driver ...

[@joel1589]

Awesome video, thanks for taking the time to make this.

[@dabig77]

THANKS! Only video Ive seen, to get that harness loose. Life saver!, I been putting this off for a month lol

[@Codeybanks12]

Thanks for the video my friend, I had bought a new switch and motor. Trying to figure out what it was. Mine was on the passenger side of the vehicle. It was the same issue watched your video. It sure enough. Thanks again for the video help me greatly.

[@PhillipBailey]

Thanks for watching

[@zurdoremi]

very methodical diagnose, I don't have that kind of patience. My driver's side window locks up in the UP position and I have to loosen the motor to get it down. Been fighting this for 2 years. Replaced motor, replaced regulator, NADA, same crap. There must be a Limit switch or something holding it up???

[@RK-kn1ud]

The harnesses on these doors are complete junk. In 100k miles I've had these break on me 4 times directly in the door jam. Make sure you test EVERY function before you close up the door panel...I've had two harnesses incorrectly pinned. Both picked up from the stealership still sealed in their factory packaging and had the correct part number. Mirror controller was controlling the door lock and the window switch controlled the mirror on the first harness. Lol.

[@PhillipBailey]

Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to watch for that before putting the door together.

[@topglock]

I have a 2013 f150 and my harness looks nothing like this one. The wires run way into the door instead of plugging in where this connector is. Can’t find a part anywhere. The ford dealer says they don’t make it any longer. 😞

[@PhillipBailey]

What's the vin and which door? If the wires pass through the A pillar then you could likely repair them running new wire through the flex and splicing inside the door and pillar

[@Jay1980bka]

Same problem on my 2014

[@Jack-ns5mn]

That is such a common problem with all makes that you would think a more stress resistant wiring could be used to last at least one million cycles. Possibly finer strands and silicone covering. Profits would be down but customer satisfaction would go up.

[@PhillipBailey]

They could design lots of things better but of course it's not in their best interest to make it last too long. They make money on parts sales and profits in the service department. Most manufacturers have gone to networking to reduce the actual number of wires in this particular harness. Realistically this could be down to 4 wires running in there. Power, ground and a couple if networking wires. Everything in the door runs off a door module. Less wires less cost more reliable. Some are already doing this.

[@michaelwooten8850]

What program are you using for the schematic?

[@PhillipBailey]

It's an online subscription service called Identifix. They don't usually cater to diy techs but there is a similar service available from Alldatadiy.com that does.

[@bladimirbarrera3611]

Excellent 👍

[@beachcruzer]

Thank you

[@TheNINpou]

what's the name of the connector that you plug the harness to it? My passenger windows is not working and i just found out that the fault is the connector, 1 pin missing/broken. Any chance you know how to replace it ?

[@PhillipBailey]

@TheNINpou that's part of one of the dash harness. I'd recommend to go to a salvage yard and cut one off another truck. Try to get a few inches of wire with it. I'm sure you can depin a terminal. Not sure what access to the connector is like though. If it's the driver door it's C219 number 14A005 according to the service information.

[@TheNINpou]

@@PhillipBailey thank you so much for the reply, it's the passenger side near the fuse box. It looks nearly impossible to get it out and there is pretty much no room to wiggle it. Was hoping it was a small fix

[@PhillipBailey]

@TheNINpou on the passenger side, you might be able to access through the glove box, but honestly, I don't know how it comes out of the A pillar

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

The same age old problem. (or do I say same problem for owners not manufacturers...as if they care?)

[@cb8429]

14 f150. drivers window not working. Harness is good, brand new switch, brand new regulator, all good fuses and relays, and harness has 12v at the window motor plug with switch. Any idea?

[@PhillipBailey]

Sorry just saw this... is there power and ground to the driver window motor when you try to operate it? Check with a headlight to load test the circuit. Voltmeter and some test lights may fool you. Load test the input power and ground to the switch the same way. It's easy to miss a wire in the harness. Check for damaged pins in the A pillar connector. You're missing something.

[@PhillipBailey]

Thanks!

[@lordvendrick6526]

Just curious what you used for the test terminal to test the pin in the door jam when you removed the boot and harness from the door jam spot where it plugs in

[@PhillipBailey]

@@lordvendrick6526 I use test terminals like this: Terminal Test Kit Plastic/Metal/Rubber supplyapp.com/terminal-test-kit-plastic-metal-rubber-p15lh10.html

[@trisnomechanic6985]

Nice video👍👍👍☕👈🤝🏻🙏

[@nes4226]

Do you think this could be the issue with the 2013 bcm?

[@PhillipBailey]

Doubt it since the BCM does nothing but supply power through its fuses. If there's power on both sides of the fuse then it's not a BCM problem.