2012 - 2016 KTM 350 EXC-F Oil Change

[@JohnHowerton137]

You can tip the bike on it's side and add oil 1/3 full to the filter oil housing as per manual if you don't like the idea of a dry filter.

[@denesk2794]

I am amazed by how many people would truck their bikes into the agency or to a mechanic, then wait for an oil change. On the 350/450 it is really this fast. The 690 (both duke and enduro R) it is actually more complex. To remove the guard is 2 screws and it is tricky to put it back. Then it has 2 filters and 2 screens.... yet, it is 20 minutes to do ... maybe 25 if you let it drip out and do it relaxed. ..... The only thing I miss from your video is a torque wrench. I am anal about having the right specs especially when it comes to the block. You can get them really cheap nowadays and it is worth getting one! The manual details all torques for all the screws. Gives a peace of mind. Well, I have carbon fiber bicycle frames and components too and there you can really break stuff just by putting a bit of "just about tight" measurement at the wrong place. I have also learned, that you can "just about" measure an 8Nm, but you cannot possibly torque a crank at exactly 48-52Nm. And when it is an engine part or a bicycle crank, that's what can make the difference between rattling lose or stripping the thread out. Just my 2c ps: good video and I am not trying to be a smart-ass. I just think when I have more than $10K sank into a bike it is worth investing in a $80-100 torque wrench. Especially with KTM where everything is aluminium and as light as possible. Sure, a Honda XR only needs a hammer and an old rusty wrench :)

[@JohnHowerton137]

I actually totally agree.. with basically everything. I looked to buy a decent torque wrench around here (5 stores without luck) because the two brand new ones I tried from Harbor Freight were not even close to accurate and almost popped my fork pinch bolts (critical for proper suspension action). My wrist is 100% more accurate than they were after all these years. I could torque 5nm on a carbon bike like nobody's business 🤣 (3 years in a bike shop).

[@dschwep7]

Thanks John - great, simple yet well detailed !

[@matejchlup5660]

Thanks John, helped me so much

[@JohnHowerton137]

Matěj Chlup great! Enjoy the ride ✊

[@donmx82]

Thanks for posting.

[@LegendairyStrider]

Hey man, why don't you tilt the bike on its side and fill the oil filter 2/3 of the way as the manual recommends? I missed this since I followed your video. Maybe put in a disclaimer? Some claim that the pump pressure on start-up can cause the filter to collapse if it's not saturated with oil already. It may also starve the engine of oil for a bit until the air from the oil filter is displaced out of the system.

[@JohnHowerton137]

Pretty well covered in the comments. Never seen or experienced any of that stuff, but do whatever you feel necessary to protect your investment! After all, I am just a dude online. Filter collapsing is a new one for me and I sold thousands of them over the years for every brand. Probably people buying Chinese garbage on Amazon or operator error.

[@LegendairyStrider]

@@JohnHowerton137 I didn't see any other comment about it yet, that's why I thought I'd mention it. Personally I didn't have any issues, I just thought I'd ask your opinion. Good to know. I don't doubt that you can get away without doing it, just wondering if you had a reason.

[@LegendairyStrider]

@@JohnHowerton137 I appreciate your video regardless. Didn't mean to be critical, more curious.

[@JohnHowerton137]

@@LegendairyStrider all good 👍 I'll harbor blame as I have some other oil change videos and KZbin Studio comment section leaves a lot to be desired. It's much harder to tell what video I'm commenting on. Keep the side down my friend 🤙

[@thepeach12345]

@ 0:44 you point at the oil drain plug. See that bolt facing outwards on the left by like an inch? Can you drain oil from that bolt because the last owner striped the oil drain plug and I had to use alot of white tape to wrap the drain bolt in order to get it to wanna go back on. Now that im getting closer to another oil change Id hate to remove that sketchy bolt again and hope I can use the same tactic to get it to stay back in. Are there any other alternate holes I can use to drain the oil. Im aware I wont get all the oil but anything helps. Thanks! From John 2015 ktm xcf owner!

[@JohnHowerton137]

The oil screen cap on the left will get nearly all of it out if you tip it I imagine. The drain bolt itself is magnetic, so some iron based metal debris will continue to build up there… just a heads up.

[@saiinth]

You should put som oil in the new filter before putting it in ;)

[@JohnHowerton137]

I do sometimes. I actually did just a couple days ago.

[@harleyosterlund5796]

How do you check the level??

[@JohnHowerton137]

Sight glass down by the brake pedal.

[@harleyosterlund5796]

@@JohnHowerton137 that was really hidden behind there thanks

[@dannyfox6911]

1L liter oil or 1,2L?

[@JohnHowerton137]

Danny fox 1.2L or 1.27qt, but check your owners manual.

[@mke7876]

10w50 is what the manual says

[@JohnHowerton137]

That’s what I did use. Refuse to pay $20+ a quart for stuff I dump after 2-3 rides. It’s 100+ degrees where I ride. The main thing to stay away from is oils with friction modifiers designed for cars. Wet clutches don’t like that. Honda’s oils are good. I sold them for years and I’ve personally done bearing failure tests on several different formulas with one of our oil reps.

[@mke7876]

John Howerton I totally understand about the money. If you do some research you might find some one around your area that can get you some motoul oil. Or something. Yes it sucks finding good oil for a good price. Or bulk buying

[@variator259]

👍👍👍👍👍🇷🇺