2014 Kia Positive Cable Upgrade

So for some odd reason the positive cable on the 2014 Ka Cadenza becomes fried. The symptoms of the fried wire is the alternator no longer charges the battery. It gives a false alternator failure. Most people my self include it will replace the alternator. Once the alternator is replaced the symptom takes roughly 15 to 30mins to come back. The only fix is to replace the positive wire going from the alternator to the battery. I went with a size zero gauge wire. The only problem with the size zero gauge wire is the battery warning light will occasionally illuminate on the dash. Drivability is not effect when the light is on. My guess is the car computer is sensing a voltage spike due to the size zero gauge wire. Or in other words a overcharge is detected. Failure to replace the wire In the vehicle will cause you to loose electrical power and the car will soon leave you stranded on the side of the road.
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[@joshuahouston6756]

Thank you !!!!

[@KleliousDavis]

Your welcome!

[@BLACKEDOUTVIK]

This is considered part of a big 3 upgrade....

[@dee3deeva76]

2014 Kia Cadenza installed Vantrue Pro dash cam. What interior fuse do I connect to get continuous power for night mode without draining the battery? So when the car switch is off the dash cam can keep recording.

[@KleliousDavis]

I'm sorry I don't know the answer to your question.

[@MultiTyler12345]

Hey there. I came across your video on a forum. I have a 2011 Kia Sorento SX 3.5L. It appears your engine looks almost identical to mine. When your alternator was "failing" what were the symptoms. Mine will be around 14v for like 60 seconds after it's sat for several hours. It then drops off to below 12v. When I'm driving though it will go back to low 13's. As soon as I'm slowing down it drops below 12 again. Do you think that mine is having the same issue you had where the wire has internal corrosion and has hard time pumping power through the cable at lower rpm?

[@KleliousDavis]

I thought it was my alternator so I replaced it and it did not help. Then I figured it was my positive wire going to the alternator to the battery and problem solved no more voltage drops. When the wire went out you will lose power to all electrical components and the car will die not to mention the electric power steering will fail making it very dangerous to drive.

[@KleliousDavis]

I’m assuming the wire inside gets so corroded that it prohibits an electrical charge from the alternator to the battery. Which basically means you are running everything off the battery which in turns kills the battery because it’s not getting an electrical charge from the alternator.

[@MultiTyler12345]

Wow thanks for the quick reply. I just got back inside from my experiment. I took my jumper cables and clamped from the positive bolt on the alternator to the positive on the battery but no improvement. And these cables are no slouch. The rubber is pretty thick but I am pretty sure they are around 4g. I would think that would be enough of a boost to get the power to come the battery less restricted. When you replaced your alt did you go for the factory one. Because I know around my year model they moved to a smart alternator which has the AMS inside the ECM which regulates the alternator. I would think if my reman alternator did not have the oem electronics that the AMS knows how to talk to it might not work.

[@KleliousDavis]

If you can get a factory alternator then do so I went with a reman because I was short on time due to o my job. Factory part took to long to arrive.

[@sunshinejustice8014]

would tht fry all yours fuses ?

[@joel87555]

Can you show how to change the transmission fluid? Please. I found out you do not want the dealer to flush it out.

[@KleliousDavis]

There is no way of changing the transmission fluid in these vehicles. Unfortunately you have to go to the dealership.

[@KleliousDavis]

I’ve already gone once and will be going again soon

[@joel87555]

@@KleliousDavis and you haven't had any troubles?

[@tyrannosaurusmex5033]

Was your positive terminal becoming really hot 🔥 would it fry the battery like I can't even grab the perminal it would burn my hand

[@KleliousDavis]

Don’t remember the wire getting hot It just failed without warning

[@joshuahouston6756]

Hey do you know if it has to be an 0 gauge or could it be a 2 gauge , because someone is thinking that 0 would be to big but I think it’s fine .. can you help me explain why we need a 0

[@KleliousDavis]

A 2 gauge would work as well. If you can Google the big 3 upgrade. It goes into more detail as to why:)

[@KleliousDavis]

As long as it's a bigger gauge then the factory wire your ok.

[@KleliousDavis]

When you change the wire be sure to disconnect the battery first before disconnecting the wire from the alternator failure to do so will blow the fuse that sits on top of the battery. Just a fyi. Also make sure u wrap the old alternator wire with electrical tape because that wire is live at all times.

[@joshuahouston6756]

Klelious Davis I appreciate your help so much , I’m about to do it right now , do I have to wrap the new wire with electrical tap ?

[@KleliousDavis]

No just purchase a plum for it

[@ValeriaGonzalez-me6xm]

Does your Kia Cadenza have a sunroof? My sunroof doesn't work and I would like to fix it lol and a how to video would be perfect. 😁😁

[@KleliousDavis]

No sorry

[@KleliousDavis]

I wish it did

[@joshuahouston6756]

I’m comfortable and know what to do my only question I have is did you bolt the wire down to connect to alternator like you did the battery .. what do I use to connect the wire to the alternator

[@KleliousDavis]

I just use the bolt that's already on the alternator.

[@joshuahouston6756]

Klelious Davis alright what size wire connector should I have ?

[@KleliousDavis]

@@joshuahouston6756 the biggest wire is a zero gauge wire.