2014 SUBARU 2.5 PCV VALVE INSTALL

SUBARU 2.5 FLAT 4 PCV INSTALL AND APPLIES TO MANY SIMILAR SUBARU VEHICLES. SUBARU PCV. SUBARU 2.5 PCV VALVE

[@TimJoseph08031990]

Thanks for the video. I did this on the 2014 Subaru Forester 2.5 Liter Touring with EyeSight. I was able to remove and replace the hose with my hand. The old PCV valve was plugged up with oil, so good thing I replaced it. I tightened the new PCV valve close to 10 ft. lbs. of torque.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Sounds great. And sounds like you did a thorough job! Thx for comments

[@VTRCP1959]

Excellent video - Use of hose pliers and addition of a slight amount of silicone line to assist in hose replacement are nice touches!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks Robert. Appreciated :)

[@rancin99]

Excellent video - Use of hose pliers would have saved me some $$$. I somehow broke a couple of wires from the connector trying to remove the hose from the PCV valve with vice grips. The dealership charged $350 to locate and repair the wires with no guarantee or $1400 to replace the harness which run through the engine.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks!

[@louisbellanca9293]

Nice - this seems like the easiest PCV replace for the Subaru. Nothing else needs to be removed unlike other models.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Agree

[@tortioustom]

Is this all the same for the 3.6 2014?

[@jerryyoung6494]

I will second what you said. Just buy a new hose from the beginning!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx for your input. :)

[@mameibrahimndiaye8067]

Hi my pcv valve won't come off, it looks like it's stuck, I tried different sockets and use all my strength. I show it to a mechanic and he couldn't take it off, he doesn't want use an impact and break something. It looks like there is a sealant or paste around the valve, I used WD-40 but no luck yet. Any idea ?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hello. First off - Do NOT Heat it. Combustible vapors are inside the engine / crankcase at all times. NO open flame HEAT. What you CAN TRY - is soaking it over night with WD-40 (like you did) and can try other penetrants as well. PB blaster works well, too. May have to spray it down 2-3 x a day for a day or two. Because if someone put a sealant / paste on it - the penetrant can help break it down. This is why I always use a smidge of liquid teflon.. as it never gets hard like a glue or RTV. Try a 6 sided socket for added grip (12 point is ok but more likely to slip) and use a really long 3/8 ratchet on a 12” extension. That gives leverage. You wanna just give it a good “snap” pull on that ratchet to get ‘er free! You can even use 1/2 tools. A quick blip on an impact gun can even help but is risky, as it may snap the valve off - right at threads and then you’d need an easy out to remove thread patch. They also sell spray FREEZE CANS. You spray a frozen bolt or part and it FREEZES PART. Then it may break free. Opposite of using heat but can work.. Hope this helps ya!

[@jasonkarov]

Same thing just happened to me, I put a 19mm impact socke with a 1/2 drive 2 foot breaker bar and it would not budge. I will try soaking multiple days with PB blaster, and try in 3-4 more days, and when the engine is warm. If that doesn't work, I may get the freez cane that @automotiveEZ suggests

[@arvydasa3274]

It is not simple for some reason. New valve goes just half way in. No more. Tried put back old one just the same. Half way only

[@questioner1596]

Pipe threads are tapered (like a cone), so they won't bottom out. I made this mistake before by overtightening on a different car and broke my oil pump housing in two. Just turn until tight.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Do not over tighten - does not have to be flush - is a pipe thread type fitting

[@JosheyG34]

Dealer wanted to charge $250 for this

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Lol. Well, glad you found this video then :) Thanks for watching