2015 Subaru Forester CV Axle Replacement

[@dugganb]

I tried 2 different aftermarket brands and both had vibration issues. Not terrible but it drove me crazy. Most people probably wouldn’t have noticed the vibration because it wasn’t an issue during normal driving. It only happened under high torque scenarios like at full throttle through first gear. As soon as I put in the genuine Subaru OEM cv axle it ran smooth again.

[@subaruty128]

Max thanks for the video. Like another person stated wish we could have seen the axle removed just as a confidence boost in the event that I take on this job one day . Overall excellent work ...thank you my friend.... I am still waiting to see a coolant flush video???? There are a bunch out there but I want something like you did with the transmission flush. The ole drain and fill the radiator does not cut it . Would like to see radiator drain , thermostat removed, heater core independently flushed ,maybe even block plug drained ... your the guy to come up with the plan ... maybe you can use that pump of yours to flush the system with distilled water everyone seems to flush with tap water ... let’s do this brother 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@nickd901]

Wish you hadnt skipped the pivotal points of the replacement. No video of actually removing or replacing the axle. No mention of greasing for the spindles on each side of the axle. Over all thanks for making this video

[@getinthespace7715]

I'm approaching 200k miles. Picked up a click accelerating and turning left. I'm debating on just doing all the wheel bearings, brakes, and CV axles one weekend. My rear wheel bearings are starting to make a little noise. but... if it's not broke don't fix it right? 😉

[@RigoStar1931]

Keep up the videos! I’m definitely using this to work on my foz

[@VideoNOLA]

Totally OK to reuse old axle nut. Just uncrimp with awl (not always necessary, esp. if you can get it spinning by brute force), then re-dimple after reinstallation at end of job.

[@johnlasher3103]

Can confirm from personal experience that this statement is true!

[@MrDvirpariente]

Hi, I'm about to replace my front Axle, can i ask it the differential oil spilled out when you removed the axle? And did you had to change the differential oil after the job is done?

[@yott1950]

Hi. It surprised me that the cup end where the axle fits into the differential on your old axle is black, not green. Everything I've heard and seen online says the cups are supposed to be green on Subaru OEM axles, and if they're not, they're probably aftermarket axles. I've seen photos of used axles for sale on eBay from 2014 Foresters that have green cups, but now I'm wondering if Subaru changed the color in 2015. The reason I bring this up is that my 2015 Forester with CVT and 2.5 engine has the vibration problem at idle with transmission in D and foot on brake pedal. A lot of folks say that happens if aftermarket axles are installed. I checked my axles and all have black cups which made me wonder if they had been switched out by a shop when I had some work done on my vehicle in the past. Are your OEM front axle cups also black?

[@xproductionmarketing2926]

They went out fast for a 2015 model. Comment too early...you got over 100k miles. I have 09 XT with 90k miles and it clicks when I right turn so I'll have to change mine too. Thanks for video.

[@dc4slacker]

How did you manage to get the strut bolt out? Was trying to do the same thing and it was running into the knuckle.

[@mojtabaturkmani1991]

would you say an alignment is needed after changing both front cv axles?

[@max-weber]

I didn't need it, but that would be predicated on not touching the adjustments for toe, camber, etc

[@L110508]

My 2018 XT's front passenger CV axle needs a new one, just 60k kms. So for people thinking that OEM is the best, I'm not sure about that. Anybody had experience with good aftermarket CV axle?

[@txapapotee]

Please, can tell where is the book to repair the subaru in the web? 😉

[@spelunkerd]

Mitchelldiy have it, but so far Alldatadiy don't have the 2015 Forester, yet. I'm not happy with the Mitchell version, it is really hard to find things. Haynes manuals are more practical but lack TSB's and are very superficial.

[@thelivingwordpraiseandwors1771]

How much time it’ll take

The correct term is "Staking" the nut.

[@robertmcdougal2838]

You skipped the part about putting it back in. Getting the cir clip back in. That’s what I needed to see.

[@1971ufcfan]

I just got a recall on my 2015 forester for the cv axles . I took it in and they said it was still ok . Did you get your recall , if so I would get my reimbursement.

[@max-weber]

I didn't get any recall information for the axles. I just had another axle (front left) go bad. The one I replaced in this video is still fine (after about 20k miles) Can you link me to the recall?

[@Googs5]

@@max-weber Did you ever find recall information on this? I have a 15 Forester xt that is developing clicking on the left turn and under 70k miles.

[@rogerlittlejohn475]

You did not mention marking the camber bolt so that you do not need to have it realigned.

[@max-weber]

That's correct. The way the manual says to do it, you have to mark the camber bolt. The way it's done in the video, there is no loss of alignment because we didn't touch the camber bolt.

[@brandenharding8864]

Hey I have a 2014 forester XT with both front left and front right CV axles that are shot. Do you know if the front axle removal from the differential housing is the same as the rear? I cant find ant definitive info about whether there's a roll pin holding it in or if I can just pry it out with a crow bar.

[@max-weber]

I had to replace my front left axle not long after this video. If I remember correctly, all I did was pop out the ball joint to get the front loose, then I could pull the hub back far enough to get the new axle in and out. It was technically simpler than the rear, but the front axle was slightly rusted into the hub and it was more difficult popping the axle into the differential (getting it past the snap ring required one person to compress the axle in while a second person lightly tapped it into the diff) The other issue with the front is that the control arm that supports the ball joint is WAY more powerful than the rear (to hold up all the weight up front) so I had to use a pry bar to pull the control arm back down far enough to pop the ball joint back into the hub.

[@brandenharding8864]

Max Weber hey thanks for the video and response, just replaced both front axles today without a problem. Ended up removing the hub from the strut tower, it gave me enough room to pull it out without further disassembly.

[@mukasaivan8008]

What’s the cause of damage on the Axel shaft

[@eddielujan8243]

Wondering what you meant on hitting the axle off if you don't plan on rebuilding? Ill still be using my old axle can i not hit with hammer to get off hub?

[@max-weber]

You can, but you just have to be careful because hammering on the spindle can damage the joint. If I were to re-use an axle, I would do light short taps that are barely strong enough to loosen the spindle from the hub.

[@eddielujan8243]

Max Weber thanks so much

[@surfjujitsu2456]

You can get oem parts from rock auto as well. Cheap.

[@ryancox8282]

Also, any tips on doing the fronts? That's what I have to do.

[@max-weber]

I actually had one of my front axles fail not much longer after the rear failed. It was easier to do than the rear. All I needed to undo was the ball joint, ABS and brake line brackets for extra slack, pull the wheel hub back and away far enough to pry out the axle. It was definitely more sticky than the rear, but as long as you tap the axle loose from the wheel hub first THEN pry it from the differential, you should be good to go. Reinstalling was a 2 person job if you cant get the snap ring on the spindle to "click" into place inside the differential. I ended up having to push the axle with significant force so that a helper could tap it home with a mallet and get the snap ring settled in. If I wasn't pushing/compressing the axle then tapping with a mallet wouldn't be enough to seat the snap ring. Edit, I will also add that getting the ball joint back in was difficult, I used a pry bar on the control arm which was the only way I could give it enough force to get low enough to reinsert the ball joint.

[@evana9262]

How do you separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle?

[@max-weber]

It might be because my car is a California car, but I didn't struggle with that part at all. I think it just dropped freely (the knuckle wants to spring up). It was more difficult getting it back in, took some man-handling. If you have to, you can use a bar to carefully leverage the knuckle back down into the joint (supporting the wheel hub from the underside to have counterforce)

[@ryancox8282]

Where did you source the new axle nut?

[@max-weber]

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I7996N8

[@awsmfun]

Great walk-threw.

[@president89]

You skipped the actual removal of the axle?

[@max-weber]

If you meant pulling the wheel hub out, yes, I didn't manage to get that on film, but it's pretty easy to do once you get the 3 bolts off (shown in video). You basically just grab the rotor and pull back. Removal of the axle is at 10:10

[@allennewby6377]

I have a cv axel going bad at 98000 miles. Not too happy

[@rogerlittlejohn475]

Also found that you cannot buy a new non OEM replacement yet. Subaru must have blocked potential manufacturers.

[@Ian-ts7he]

Anyone know the part number

[@rayms69]

UH must be a California word good video though

[@liberty9348]

Good video on an "easier" way to remove the CV axle. The information on the weight shifting while turning is incorrect. If you're turning ONE WAY, the weight will shift AWAY from that turn. Ergo turning right will shift the vehicle weight to the left and visa versa. This is due to CENTRIFUGAL FORCE. Also, you didn't explain what happened to the "bad" CV axle. It's not necessary when showing how to swap it out BUT generally you will want to talk about that as it IS completely relevant to the job. What was wrong with the axle? Likely the bearings were shot... Surprising to see a "new-ish" car with only 30K on it have a CV axle go out. Just goes to show the poor quality of parts used to build "NEW" cars these days. (They are actually MEANT and DESIGNED to fail so you go buy a new car every 4-5 years... what a scam).

[@pianofool26]

Just wanted to point out that his cv failed at 100k as he said due to a component failing in the joint. The 30k is from the salvaged car.

[@liberty9348]

@@pianofool26 Ah, I must have missed that. Thanks =]

[@SoftCell78]

1 1/4 in????? Its a Japanese car. Use metric my friend

[@hydn79]

Err aah thanks!

[@SoftCell78]

uhhh.... ummmm. uhhhh. ummmm. axle came off

[@beachtoyourfeet]

Curiosity how to line up the CV joint as somehow the last person working on 2014 forester didn't line up dust shield properly and there was some squeeking and damage as a result to the left rear abs sensor. Service wants $800 to do this job. Other concern is that this vehicle has X-MODE and see another line going to wheel. Any advice much appreciated. Service advisor advised on after market axles being "short".

[@max-weber]

I actually replaced the left rear axle a month ago and had an ABS problem as well. The spline was really stubborn and rusted into the wheel hub. I had to pound it out, which ended up slightly popping the bearing out of the hub. The ABS sensor was damaged, which I thought replacing would solve the problem, but the damage to the bearing also affected the magnetic encoder ring on the bearing. I replaced the wheel hub (super easy job) and all is well.

[@beachtoyourfeet]

Thanks for feedback below on bearing hub! Missed your reply.

[@nuttietrendchannel4265]

90k miles, start clicking now.

[@jchuck61]

You didn’t get the most important parts of the process on film!