2015 Vstrom Valve adjustment part 2

[@Seb-Venturer]

Thanks a lot for recording this video! Helped me a lot to adjust valves clearence on my DL1000! Did the same work on my 650 four years ago and indeed it's much simpler work to do on 1000cc engine 👍

[@IanGrant-y2p]

Thanks for making the video, I don't have a workshop manual so this really helps get the info and tips of how to do the valve clearance's etc.

[@VStromGarage]

Your welcome, glad it helped!

[@IanGrant-y2p]

@@VStromGarageI Just did the valve clearances, one inlet on the rear cyl was tight(24,000klm check). I used your torque settings etc. and method to get timing before removing the cam. Thanks for the video it was very helpful!!

[@bluelinewall640]

Thank you, just about to do mine this week, nice camera work too.

[@christianriccombeni4528]

Exelente trabajo!!! Voy a controlar las valvulas en mi honda varadero 1000, son motores muy similares. Abrazo desde argentina

[@TheCheezy66]

Thanks for a great video!

[@younjooil]

thanks for your video. I learn through you ... :)

[@2manysigns]

Thanks again !

[@agostinhofroes4169]

Here in Brazil we have heard a lot of cases of these deep cracks on Metzeler Tourances. Kind of a dangerous thing! Better to keep with Michelins Anakee.

[@VStromGarage]

ya, I'm giving them one more shot, if it happens again, I'm out.

[@truobalanga6970]

thank you for this video.

[@Master-di4di]

Awesome vid and Camera Woman. Partnership? Lol.

[@MPeachy]

I really appreciate your thoroughness. I'm doing my 2016 Vstrom and found my front exh at a tight 0.009. Do I use the same logic of rotating the engine to rear TDC to work on the front cylinder?

[@VStromGarage]

Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner, Yep, just rotate the crank to the R/T marks to check the clearances on the rear cyl. If you have to remove any cams on the rear, you have to turn the crank 270deg to the F/T marks to remove the rear cams.

[@wittydisplayname1761]

@@VStromGarage Thanks for the video! If when the front timing is set you rotated 270 degrees to get to rear timing doesn’t that mean that to get to front timing again it is another 90 degree turn? If you have to remove rear cams you have the F/T marks lined up in the check hole. If you have to remove front cams you have the R/T marks lined up in the check hole. Do I have that correct? Thanks.

[@VStromGarage]

@@wittydisplayname1761 For the front cylinder everything is done with the timing marks on F/T with the piston at TDC on compression stroke. The rear cylinder you check the valve clearance with the timing marks at R/T TDC compression stroke, if you have to remove the cam or cams for adjustment, you will turn the crank from R/T to the F/T to remove the cams. The service manual will show cam position, I believe I showed this in the video. I hope I answered your question, and thanks for watching!

[@wittydisplayname1761]

@@VStromGarage Thank you!

[@garymorris2857]

Nice tutorial video, 👍

[@VStromGarage]

Thanks!

[@alphasquatch6967]

With the shims do you go to a smaller shim to toghten the tolerance? Was a bit confused there jw because im about to dig into my 2015 ty id advanced

[@VStromGarage]

smaller shim to loosen the clearance.

[@MPeachy]

Another question, do you put loctite on the cam journal bolts?

[@VStromGarage]

No, that's not needed.

[@Master-di4di]

NO.

[@RedlineAlex]

Спасибо,очень познавательно! Купил себе точно такой же,очень пригодятся ваши инструкции👍👍👍 На каком масле катаетесь вижу очень чистый двигатель и какой у вас сейчас пробег? Спасибо еще раз🤝🤛🤟

[@VStromGarage]

I use Mobil 1 4T 10w 40w motorcycle oil, I only have 17,500 miles on it.

[@RedlineAlex]

@@VStromGarage большое спасибо!!! Удачи вам,отличный байк,мне очень понравился,хотя есть у него свои особенности в виде гремящей корзины сцепления,у меня пробег 20.000км и гремит она конечно не приятно! Но когда я откручиваю на нем мне все пофиг,прет как надо и про все забываешь))) Удачи Вам👍👍👍

[@RedlineAlex]

Прошу прощения,подписка за ваш труд👍👍👍

[@picsfield9035]

Is it necessary o remove chain tensioner?

[@VStromGarage]

Not on the 1000, the 650 v-strom does need it removed.

[@VStromGarage]

Actually the 650 you don't have to remove it, you can get a long screwdriver and release the pawl on the tensioner.

[@maximus-power]

Sooooo many commercials. Couple questions, did you need to change the plugs at 15k? Did you notice and difference after changing the shims on the rear? Where do you get a decent micrometer?

[@VStromGarage]

Ya, they definitely put a lot of commercials in. No I won't change plugs till around 33000 miles. Didn't really notice any real change after changing shims, if they were a lot out of spec I'm sure I would have.

[@maximus-power]

Thanks for the reply. I picked up some plugs this weekend but I think I’m gonna hold off to change them. I’m at 14,000 miles. I will check the valves and probably change the plugs next winter. I appreciate your video. That looks like a whole lot of work.

[@VStromGarage]

@@maximus-power The first time you do it, it takes a little longer, but next time you'll do it in half the time.

[@Master-di4di]

@@VStromGarage iRIDIUM plugs can last 100,000 miles.

[@VStromGarage]

@@Master-di4di they can, but I want to keep everything at peek running condition, so I change them early. On my car I usually go about 70,000 miles.

[@agostinhofroes4169]

How many miles is this service?

[@VStromGarage]

suppose to be at 15,000 miles, I was closer to 16,000 on mine.

[@agostinhofroes4169]

@@VStromGarage , as you use inches to measure the clearances it's hard to convert to milimeters as we use in Brazil. The valve clearances were tighter then specified, or looser?

[@VStromGarage]

@@agostinhofroes4169 The ones I changed were right at the limits, still within specs, but only lazy mechanics would leave them alone.