2020 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 - First Oil Change At 200 KLM

Just did my very first oil and filter change on my Royal Enfield Bullet 500 or known as the B5. Check out my clip and see for yourself how the task on hand went.
plus a few good tips for up and coming buyers of this classic bike.
this procedure is suitable for all the UCE enfield models. no matter if you have the class

[@slakk5093]

Have you watched the Fortnine video on first oil change across all the brand's. It's interesting stuff

[@ridewithwarro]

yeah that guy does a terrific job. i'd say that oil sample hehad hold of most likely came from an interceptor 650 -my oil changes from the 650's were excessively clean to the eye. plus thats their new assemble plant so i guess it should be pretty good too. i'd exp[ect mine to be much cleaner on the second drop. this time i did a lot of around town riding so the motor was working more magnet worked great and no metal i could see in the oil drain tray so it was really clean. many times i have sited metal laying in there.

[@slakk5093]

@@ridewithwarro yeah I liked your magnets on the bolt to increase the magnetic power. I'm going to use that trick in future

[@ridewithwarro]

@@slakk5093 certainly works ok

[@paulstoker7650]

I'm amazed at how much metal had been picked up by the magnets. I'm going to order some of those for my Interceptor. The oil change on the Classic is a lot more work and drama compared to the Interceptor. When you do your own service you know it's been done properly. Great video. Stay safe.

[@ridewithwarro]

im sort of amazed i am stil picking up the same crap inside the motor roughly 9 years after i bought my very first c5...lol

[@felixVanDiemen]

Great video thanks Warro! I like the heel and toe shifter I reckon I'll get one for my 2014 Bullet.

[@ridewithwarro]

i find them much better than the normal toe style shifter. got one on mt classic 350 reborn too. had them on lots of enfields and you can change gears fast too. just grab one on ebay...plenty there

[@findingneutral]

Whoa. Man those Rare Earth Magnets are super strong. That collected a lot of stuff. This bike really has an excellent oil purification system all the way round. Great tutorial.

[@ridewithwarro]

yeah they certainly have a bit of grip...lol plus do a good job for the few $$$ outlay so well worth the effort to sure and just slap on.

[@findingneutral]

@@ridewithwarro Definitely. Just ordered some.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@findingneutral good...well worth the effort

[@dougieboboot-na-boot5877]

A forest Green bullet with a single seat. You must've read my mind!! If it was mine I'd fit panniers to hide the oddly shaped rear mudguard.

[@ridewithwarro]

i have a full set of C5 hardware in stock so that may be an option at a later date.front and rear mudguards guards.plus the side covers...all 4

[@syedasim8640]

B5 mudguards looks vintage period correct. C5 mudguard are but modernised

[@Flashdan100]

I liked your tip on the magnets, I’ve taken it a stage further by buying a 5x20mm magnet off eBay and 3D printing a cup for it to sit in with a tether just in case it gets knocked off! I use Silkolene in my Bullet, the gearbox's on Bullets are very good far better than the T100 I had before but after using Silkolene its much better. I also changed the brake pads to Ferodo sintered from Hitchcocks which are a big improvement !

[@ridewithwarro]

so how things differ. i used silkolene in my 650 interceptor and dropped it after a couple of hundred klm...wasn't happy with it. so it may be fine in the 500. i wouldnt try it again as the first experience cost me $140 to buy the 4 litres of oil but here in oz its pretty well overpriced i like the idea of the brake pads. i might try those at a later date on a hitchcocks order all the best

[@richardharmon5682]

I have seen worse sump plug gorp during the first oil change, but that basket screen was sure a mess. It is a good thing that the paper filter and screen are there as they will catch the aluminum particles and other strange non-magnetic debris that the sump magnet misses. But still it is a shame that the factory can't take the time to flush out the engine of machining and assembly debris before the bike leaves the factory and instead leaves it up to the customer to perform that task. RE managed to figure out how to assemble a clean engine when they manufacture the 650's, so how did the UCE singles rate the sloppy old school assembly? Were they just trying to make maintenance an authentic 1950's experience? lol I noticed that you placed aluminum foil over the exhaust pipe under the oil filter housing to keep oil off of the pipe when removing the filter. That is a smart idea.

[@ridewithwarro]

yeah the foil wrap is far better than the eventual sickening smell of burnt oil on the pipe....lol i agree its hard to believe on the end of this motors run-say roughly 10 years -its no cleaner than when it started its production. one motor is more swiss watch assembly and the other backyard bill...lol

[@hansbachtold1966]

That dirt on the oilfilter must have been a ballsup ex factory. I made the first oilchange with 2000Km on the clock and my filter was as clean as new.They most proberly did not clean before assembly.

[@ridewithwarro]

its the luck of the draw with these bikes,some you get are clean inside on the change and others not as clean.

[@underfluked3832]

That little oil gauge looks interesting. Another good video 👍

[@ridewithwarro]

yeah i actually like it. sits there nicely and looks the part....lol appears to work too.

[@underfluked3832]

@@ridewithwarro I’m assuming it needs testing in a piping hot cup of tea first, obviously not after first use on a bike though 🤪

[@mattyb7736]

@@underfluked3832 I'd test it after using it, would improve the tea flavour

[@underfluked3832]

@@mattyb7736 🤪🤢🤣

[@mattyb7736]

@@underfluked3832 maybe I'm a coffee snob hehehe

[@fatherted2948]

Great Job Once again

[@ridewithwarro]

thanks happy to help out with a few tips

[@spydie]

My Himalayan has two drain plugs also, but one is on the side and one, which is higher, is on the front. Everyone seems to take both out, but I see no reason to take out the front one because the side one is lower and should get all the oil? I ordered a Form-a-funnel to getting the oil to the pan (amazon). These bikes have very messy drains.

[@ridewithwarro]

noshortage of drain holes on these bikes-not like the ct125

[@sammemrys8195]

Just curious: what did you use to clean the basket and plugs? I'm new to doing my own servicing. Thanks for the informative video.

[@ridewithwarro]

old toothbruch for the wire busket and just give it afew brushes around -dry rub. on the plugs-just toilet paper-clean of coarse...lol

[@peterwillis4239]

Great video Warro. Just a couple of questions. I'm in the UK and have just recently purchased a new C5. I Spoke to you about this before regarding changing oil, dealers first service at 300mls(500km) and keeping to warranty rules, and I will take your advice to drop the oil at 200km, leave the dealer to do the 500km and carry out an oil change myself again at 1000km. Thanks for that. My question is at what stages would you replace the 'O' rings, the copper washers and the filter? I guess you just clean the strainer? Thanks for this. Pete

[@ridewithwarro]

well you know i have had heaps of these and in my case i have never replaced any of them at all. just re-used them again and again. but if you feel the need order what you want from hitchcocks uk in advance. out of all the plugs its the one with the filter basket you have to be very careful with. you can strip the thread easy or snap either of the 2 bolts totally off and quick. its also at times the hardest of all to stop an oil leak. best bet is to tighten it up and leave it and ride the bike 10 or so miles. then get under it and check again say 15 minutes after you return from the ride. if leaking clean the area slightly nip it up again and i mean slight.

[@peterwillis4239]

@@ridewithwarro Thanks for your advice again. 👍 Great videos, keep them coming, it was worth me subscribing!! Take care Warro.

[@ridewithwarro]

@@peterwillis4239 maybe...hard to say there. time will tell. all the best and enjoy the new ride

[@nelsonjay8017]

Where exactly do you put all the magnets? There is no way I'm running one in without them, pretty scary how much crap comes out with the oil the first drop

[@ridewithwarro]

just fit the sump plug back on the bike and then attach the magnets to base of plug

[@pikebobstar2033]

Notice your left crankcase cover has no filler plug? Have read some put 200ml in that side as oil can struggle to make its way to the primary chain after oil change?

[@ridewithwarro]

not too sure about that one. a couple of times when i pulled that side case afterdraining all the oil there wasstill quite a bit of oil left in there. the problem might arise from those guys who have the habbit of rocking their bikes side to side to try and get all the oil out of the motor. i think its a waste of time doing that as there are far too many areas for the oil to sit in small pools. best do the warm oil drop and add the new filter and call it quits and i think one would still be well ahead of what a dealer would do just my thoughts there.

[@pikebobstar2033]

@@whatsstefon Yeah the couple of these I have had I've never worried about this and have experienced no oiling issues when changing oil and filters as normal. Thought it was a bit of overkill and not necessary 👍

[@tomstockell9481]

Top advice - will refer back for the first 200 - by the way please let me know the exact spark plug you use - I just bought the wrong one ! ( bugger )

[@ridewithwarro]

in your case ngk bp6es or bpr6es. i've used both and it appears to make little difference and just put them straight in

[@tomstockell9481]

@@ridewithwarro Thanks for your time Warro - enough questions for now ! cheers

[@ridewithwarro]

@@tomstockell9481 all good-no drama there

[@sirgalah561]

Bloody hell.. Ive done 600km on mine.... I think I should do this too.. Mine is rattling like crazy...

[@ridewithwarro]

thats probably only the lifter rattle so you'll get use to that. bikes usually start off quiet when new and as you run it in -the lifters start doing their musical magic...lol on euro 3 bikes i just added a sports exhaust to drone it out. on euro 4's its a bit more involved as they run more leaner. not only would i drop the oil -change the filter too and have it booked for its service at 1000 klm in the early stages better to keep the motor as clan as you can

[@neilfields5914]

Are you not worried about the warranty on your bike doing your own oil change? Seems some people are in the U.K.

[@ridewithwarro]

not really ive had 15 of these so i know the bike very well. last one i blew up i pulled the head myself and had the inlet valve done that bike had only travelled 700 klm from new. that is why in the clip i said -dont worry about the oil. if you ride these bikes hard in the first part of their lives with a sports exhaust and no fueler-you find out very quickly what happens to a lean burn motor. it starts with a bang! or should i say backfire and a sorryful look on ones face and...ooops! i did it again! plus i had to fit a sprag clutch to one -faulty from new - 3 i fitted vibration plates - pulled out the decompressors in 3 of them. changed the sprockets-pulled the front forks an reversed the springs -pulled the steering head - the list goes on.

[@neilfields5914]

@@ridewithwarro my god not as reliable as your Honda then 😁

[@ridewithwarro]

@@neilfields5914 probably not but in another way a lot more fun. i was out on it today and its a very bad day if you dont feel good riding one f these. plus i know i can buy any bike within a certain price range but i just like these bikes so its hard to kick the habit once you know the bikes its not all that bad and the experience can be very rewarding

[@neilfields5914]

@@ridewithwarro I gathered you like them, I’ve just bought a new classic military so I’ve been watching and will continue to watch your videos. It’s just that since I bought it some things you read are worrying. Looking forward to more videos 👍

[@ridewithwarro]

@@neilfields5914 very easy with these bikes 1. run the bike in easy in stock form very short runs with plenty of heat cycling. 2, give them frequent oil changes from new including the filter. oil is cheap. 3. if you must run sports exhaust add a fueler to better the mixture. power commander/powertronic or boosterplug. 4. dont lug the motor while running it it. use the gears ruther than try and oull the guts out of it 5 once rin properly get out and ride it and it can andle 200 miles run in a day easy. ive done it a few times.