24.8" Makvision Wei-Ya Arcade Monitor Chassis Repair - Vertical Deflection Issues. SUPER Frustrating

[@Gubalicious]

I've been enjoying your videos for a while now but this is the best/most epic one yet. Especially for me because I have a Panasonic TV which has a fantastic picture but also this exact same problem and I've been at my wit's end trying to work out what it is. I've tested all the high voltage caps and like you have found bad ones and swapped them with it having no affect on the picture at all. I've swapped the vertical output IC. Again no effect. What's funny is I managed to find a post on a forum a while back where someone had this problem and there were like 4 replies. One said something like "looks like a bad cap" and another one said "no it's not a bad cap, it's a problem with a resistor, maybe in the vertical output section" 🤣 Good work dude and thanks for the inspiration to have another go at my TV! 👏

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Thanks! Let me know what you find out.

[@Gubalicious]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair i'm looking at a schematic for a 3125B chassis and the values for the resistors are specified as the following: R112 - 560k R91 - 39k R90 - 2M R110 - 1k Those resistors may not actually be out of tolerance. makvision49-3056-00_schematic.pdf Though the PDF says 3129D on it as well which is what you've got Weird!

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Really? That’s very interesting. Why would changing them to the ratings that match the working chassis fix the issue? Now I need to look further. Odd indeed. Thank you. I must have been looking at the schematic for a different model that happened to match the other two chassis.’

[@TheWickedArcade]

Amazing work and dedication mike! Man once these monitors are running the image is amazingly beautiful! Great work sir! Was definitely a fun episode to watch! 🤘🏽

[@kevinthorn9672]

These vids kick ass i learn something new each time thanks mike

[@cowboycandyvending1574]

I love watching your shows I learn something new everyday and it's inspiring keep up the good work that is a beautiful TV picture and I've just about rebuilt all my monitors watching your videos thank you sir

[@overnightdelivery]

Thank You so much for posting this! There is so few people even talking about these Makvisions, let alone discussing troubleshooting with them. I was very surprised that it took replacing an entire section of resistors before you could see any difference at all. I'm curious if any other problems on the board would have caused these resistors to go bad because I had heard from others that it's not real common for the that to happen. But everybody has a different opinion. I feel like I've already learned some valuable info just watching this. I'm an electronics beginner in the process of replacing a Flyback that seemed to fail catastrophically out of nowhere. I was changing resolutions when I heard a zapping noise probably from arching and the screen turned almost solid white and pincushined badly. Then the screen turned off on it's own and never turned on again. So I'm replacing the HOT along with the flyback. I have noticed there are massive resistors on the neckboard as well that look like they may have had cold solder joints. So I did lots of reflowing as well as replaced most of the capacitors. This happened months ago and still haven't got around to replacing the flyback, as I've just been trying to learn about any potential problems before attempting to boot it back up. Anyways sorry for random essay but wanted to say I enjoyed the video and wanted to share my story. It's fun to experiment with this stuff even if I may not get it going again anytime soon. ;)

[@plecebomc]

Nice finds to get that fixed! I had an M3129DB that had a similar vertical deflection type issue causing bars like that to happen but it was happening half way through the picture / sweep. Turned out there was a small mylar capacitor that was bad in the vertical output block of the chassis. One single mylar and the entire picture was restored lol. Hunting resistors can be frustrating though.

[@LameGaming]

Fantastic video and perseverance! Gives me hope in fixing a pvm 20m2u thats been giving me the same type of hell.

[@spacedock873]

Amazing tenacity! 👍👏

[@DanieldelosSantos-lk7bw]

Muy buen trabajo. ¿Que es ese aparato rojo que genera los cuadrados azules y negros?? Saludos

[@dime666bag]

Smeggin amazing repair sir ! Dammmnn

[@jatdb51t]

The funny part is the screen size and aspect ratio you started with probably ended up being about the same on the LCD it was replaced with.

[@MouMouhDS2]

good work, you are good at diagnostic

[@DanieldelosSantos-lk7bw]

Que otro canal tienes??

[@ner38073]

Hi. Hope you can still see my question. I have two wei-ya 29 inch crts and both have a pincushion and vow problem on the sides. I already recapped them fully but the geometry still really bad. Any suggestions?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Hmm. Can’t say off hand unfortunately. Are the chassis’ on the correct yokes? B+ set correctly? Is there no pincushion adjustment on the chassis?

[@ner38073]

Hi Mike, I think. My Weiya is just the same chassis you have on the other video, 29 inch monitor. Came new attached to an LG CRT. I bought two from Japan last year from a guy who had them stored. Both do have the adjustments on the top, or small pcb. It does have the PCushion adjuster but it does not fix the issue. Basically, the linearity is curved to the sides, left and right respectively on both sides. Also, the bottom right vows really badly. My Geometry is ugly. I read from a post on google to make sure Cap 76 is a 1uf 50v cap and that it has continuity to IC10. I checked this and did not find continuity and bridge it. However, this made it words plus the PCushion adjuster did not work. So I had to put it back as it was. Anywhere I can send you a photo of my issue. Again, it is the same exact chassis as yours, the weiya C3129DSLG. @@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair

[@WilliamsonShop]

those resistor you pulled r90 and r91 those two sizes where meant for a 25 inch makvision

[@jeremyavery703]

Hope you had a good Christmas but would you happen to know where I can find a service manual PDF for a 7600 chassis Wells Gardner

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

Yes. Thanks you. 19” or 25”? That’s just a standard K7000. You can Google “K7000 Manual” and you’ll find it.

[@jeremyavery703]

Okay

[@jeremyavery703]

But it doesn't look like a standard k7000

[@jeremyavery703]

Can't get my phone to send a pic on there

[@jeremyavery703]

Is on a it is on a 36-in tube for a rolling extreme street luge

[@dandoyle]

Awesome work, what is the other channel with the secret project?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

KZbin.com/yourmkarcadesource

[@shawncruiksh]

Hey Mike! Thanks for making these videos -- I'm learning a lot! Curious on a few things.. 1 - When is it not advisable to test a part in circuit? 2 - Do you have any vector monitors you could make videos on? I have a V2000 I'd like help troubleshooting :) 3 - Do you accept mail in repairs? 4 - You seem to prefer solder braids over desoldering irons - any reason why?

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

1) You can always test a part in circuit. I only remove them from the circuit if they don’t test good in circuit. This mostly only applies to resistors. If they read out of tolerance in circuit, they must be read out of circuit to verify if they are actually good or not because other components can be affecting their readings in circuit. If you’re testing a component like a transistor and it reads shorted, it’s important to remove it and test it out of circuit to make sure it’s actually shorted and not something else that’s bad causing it to read shorted in circuit when it’s actually not. 2) Not at this moment. Sorry. 3) Yes but not right now. I’m a few weeks away from moving my arcade to its new location. Had a few setbacks with the new building but we’re back on track now. Once I get everything moved and all set up, I’ll start taking stuff in again. 4) I don’t prefer braid over stations, but sometimes if you need to just pop a single components out, it’s easier to just use the braid. Also, the station I have is kind of cheap and after a few uses, I have to change the vacuum disc and it gets annoying, so I just grab the braid.

[@shawncruiksh]

@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Thanks for your answers! Very helpful! I'm curious if on your next video you could show how you reflow? Thanks again!!

[@rhsxo]

Do you do repairs on arcade monitor boards? I have a monitor that needs some repairs and am not sure how to fix it. I would be willing to pay shipping and your time.

[@jatdb51t]

You have mentioned your 2nd channel twice but I have no idea how to find it. Can you link it?

[@TheWickedArcade]

Yourmkarcadesource

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

KZbin.com/yourmkarcadesource

[@azrabain8210]

I just ran GroovyMAME on this same arcade monitor today and it broke it. I only get clicking every 2 seconds with no picture when I plug in the power cable with nothing connected to the VGA input cable. I don’t know what GroovyMAME did but I think it tried to run it at 15.7 kHz and it didn’t like it and broke. Please help my life depends on this precious arcade monitor.

[@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair]

It won’t run on anything above 800x600 on VGA. Make sure your resolution is 800x600 or below.

[@azrabain8210]

I was running High 640X480 resolution. It makes no since what GroovyMAME did to my monitor. My monitor was perfect before running it yesterday playing Daytona USA 2 and now I have to figure out how to fix it

[@azrabain8210]

I forgot to say I smelt electrical fire coming from the monitor

[@mrbrooks9969]

Those stinkin little resistors.

[@Richie107]

You're persistence amazes me!! I would toss it to the dump and put a LCD in like the original owner did 😁

[@commandtheline]

if you put it on up-side-down all the electrons are going to fall out!