3 jaw chuck jaws, achieve no runout!? top tips for beginners

a short video showing an easy way to identify the chuck jaws for assembly and how to reduce runout before turning a part

[@roadshowautosports]

Wow!!! Never heard of this solution!!! BRILLIANT!!!

[@johngreenwood6162]

Never thought about sitting the jaws in a row for identification as the numbers wear off. Excellent video.

[@BasedDepartment.]

Damn we struggled for over an hour your video saved us another hour . Thanks. Man. You earned a sub

[@PatriotCoinRings]

Same here! Got tired of trying to figure it out and thought I'd check out KZbin University for help. Runout is my issue and that's all I needed, was to know in simple terms how to fix them because mine doesn't have numbers anywhere. Thank you!

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Succinct and definitely to the point. Thank you for these tips. Just what I needed.

[@AllWeatherFirestarters]

Great video! I was having a lot of trouble trying to line them up! I ended up marking the the starting point with a red marker…and it worked! Thanks again!

[@dennisthatcher4384]

Only real helpful tip all week. Thanks for sharing.

[@bif1974]

that tap on the jaw trick......brilliant. thanks mate!

[@robertwalker7457]

Thank you very much for this, very helpful.

[@cramersclassics]

Simply brilliant!

[@abelferquiza1627]

This is great (if works!) Today i disassembled the chuck and change jaws its positions several time and got 0,04mm against the 0,12 at begining...i'll prey and ask God for you if this tapping works tomorrow.Thanks!

[@kopfjager9431]

Outstanding.

[@edwardhayes5000]

Great video

[@Glens1965]

Excellent info!!

[@Indiana_John]

Woah! That tapping tip was great, and very impressive that you got it right off 😂

[@MrMyshed]

awesome vid thank you

[@astro1218]

Dude iv been fighting with my chuck for ever. tried grinding it true and still all over the shop. never thought to give it a good tap. works a treat !

[@MrJackandEmily]

That's incredible

[@faizulehassan4697]

This was helpful!

[@bobhope5701]

thank you for the video!! my came with no numbers, got my lathe at a garage sale with frankenstein parts

[@cat02791]

Thank you for these tips. Just what I looked for. Thanks again.

[@rotating-alfadiq]

Good tips.. thanks

[@amirradman4968]

Ya saved me pal. Thnx

[@joshsundiwa]

good one thank you

[@woozhi9218]

What i found useful was finding the high spot and tighten with a specific chuck eye to reduce the run out and if it still has runout i would shim a piece of paper ,alu foil ,etc And of course to tap the end of the part to run true to the lathe bearing to finish it off.

[@cowjazz7906]

OMG,never konw that!thank u~~

[@alinjuguna6057]

the video has helped me a alot after I removed the teeth I didn't know how to put them back.🎉

[@jdwisdom9433]

Now what I'd like to know is "Why Didn't I Think of THAT?" THank You! JD

[@paulbfields8284]

“Got lucky”. You sure did. Honestly anyone working close on a machine lathe would not use a three jaw for close work or repeating set ups. Three jaws just don’t repeat. Even the high dollar Pratt and Bernerd will run out .001-.002 from one part to the next. 4 jaw for close stuff.. 3 jaw for the quick stuff. Good video.

[@alanmydland5210]

Good enough for me!!!

[@LetsRogerThat]

wow. thanks

[@shakdidagalimal]

Well, this beats drilling 4 holes, tapping them around the perimeter, then taking 10 off the mount lip. Then loosening the hold screws, adjusting the 4 tapped, and tightening the base.

[@RobertKarlBerta]

You can also take the three jaws in order but start from another point in the chuck... test the run out and than do the same thing in the next position. Likely one position will have less run out. If you have a D type chuck attachment (the type with three pins that rotate to hold the chuck in place) it is important to clean all the mating surfaces and as you start tightening the three lock bolts, don't do one at a time and tight. Instead run them up finger tight and than put a dial indicator on a test round you have chucked up. Gradually tighten the bolts starting with the high side to pull it in to place first. Finish in this manner. On my Smithy Granite 6" chuck I can get it to around .0002 concentrix which is amazing. I do have a 4 jaw chuck but rarely need it.

[@TRINITY-ks6nw]

Bravo

[@edwardhugus2772]

I've always known to insert the jaws in order, but the video close up of the ladder on the jaws and the starting spline inside the chuck makes everything clear on how it works. When flipping your jaws to accommodate larger sizes, do you insert 3 first and then 2, then 1?

[@mcgrorymachined7596]

in the case of a 3 jaw self centering you can't just flip the jaws. This is because the teeth on the jaws are radiused to suit the scroll. instead you have to buy a set of external jaws, these are still installed in the order 1,2,3 :)

[@edwardhugus2772]

@@mcgrorymachined7596 Thank you, I DID see that, but for some reason my brain didn't register the radius on the jaws.

[@tonycstech]

After hours of messing around, trying everything i can including milling the jaws to perfection (which didnt help), i found that: A) Spindle has 0 ranout B) chuck has .002 ranout C) cannot get 0 ranout on the inserted stock because chuck is not true. So the order to true the stock is to start with spindle, chuck and then jaws.

[@pjofurey6239]

Greets from Ireland, let me tell you a story, of Johnny McGrory …

[@colinquick8078]

More often than not If you have run out... Your jaws are worn in their tracks... You must then grind the jaws on a surface grinder and remove a few thou on the inner rear edge washing out at the tips.....say 3 thou... If you don't....when parting off the job will move and shatter your parting off blade....

[@richardmills5450]

Ive never seen that done before. Im guessing it settles the jaws.. Cheers

[@Ace-ig6vs]

Does this work if after one end of a piece is machined and then flipped end for end? This is where I tend to run into concentricity issues. I know, I need to invest in a 4 jaw chuck.

[@mcgrorymachined7596]

Hi, yes it does. of course you must clock off a diameter machined in the first setup. many thanks for watching

[@tonycstech]

I am guessing its the threads on the jaw and the chuck have too much play or not cut consistently, causing this issue to exist ?

[@mcgrorymachined7596]

yes its normally caused by a worn chuck, the slots in the body alway wear over time too

[@pieterbotes8938]

I most certainly don't want to do this all the time, especially if I have several or more components to do. I would rather first check the alignment of the main spindle(head stock) and the bed to see if they are running parallel. Then regrind the jaws which would be a more permanent solution. But, if regrinding is going to help on your chuck, I don't know brother. With the amount of run-out on your dial indicator and the fact that you can just tap the jaws to get rid of it is seriously a worry to me. There must be a lot of wear on the inside of your chuck and obviously the jaws as well.

[@mcgrorymachined7596]

it's not excessive wear but being a 1985 machine there's certainly some. like you say a more permanent solution would be reground/new jaws. headstock alignment won't have any influence on runout. thanks for watching :)

[@douglasbattjes3991]

Question, you said to start with #1 but you put it in #3 slot, so your doesn't make a difference as to what slot you start with on your chuck or any chuck. I always keep my numbers in the marked slot on the chuck, Nice video, always very helpful.

[@mcgrorymachined7596]

As long as you put the jaws in order it doesn't matter what slot they go into. sometimes you might get better or worse runout depending on where you put jaws so it's worth playing about :)

[@isaacwallace6783]

ohhhh

[@OGimperial97]

Will this work for a cnc lathe?

[@mcgrorymachined7596]

with hydraulic power chucks you can sometimes improve results but not with the same success seen on scroll chucks. a CNC machine with a scroll chuck will be be no different to a manual machine hope this helps :)

[@deantendaimusukutwa7130]

Does it repeat when you unclamp and clap a different piece?

[@mcgrorymachined7596]

more or less. A few gentle tap normally get it running true :) thanks for watching!

[@StansWorld]

Probably not just keep u nice chunk of Brass or Copper to use to bump it NOT a Steel Hammer.......

[@stuarth43]

well I'll be hornswoggled, one learns, I have a 16-inch pratt, has 6 heavy screws to hold the back on, just loosen sc rews a bit, tap tap tap

[@publicnews1656]

Is miter ka naam kya hai

[@GoodPimpofTheNorth]

Achieve no runout? But there is runout

[@nicktecky55]

Abom 79 tightens each of the pinions in turn, amounts to the same thing I guess.

[@ChrisMaj]

He has a 4-jaw independent chuck

[@nicktecky55]

​@@ChrisMaj Tightening all three jaws clamps them all to the spiral with the same force, meaning more accurate and predictable centring. AFAIR, I'm not a machinist.

[@bsmboy5895]

Run out ok face out

[@mr2spyderchronicles287]

Just like the wife. Just give it a tap and it will run true again

[@garylgray2060]

How about just get a chuck that's not worn out.

[@mcgrorymachined7596]

yes at great expense, this works well for now :)