$3 multimeter - high voltage & overcurrent test (smoke and explosion)

[@the_perigoso]

Hunderd, i love your accent

[@scaleop4]

just be aware the link is a porn site.

[@MOSKAU15]

Czenglish

[@sfp4197]

The most expensive is the shiping

[@sfp4197]

@Catalin gaming bn

[@sfp4197]

@Catalin gaming incalzitor pe inductie de 16kw

[@MarkFunderburk]

My university had the students buy these meters (for $10) after they got ride of the Agilent meters in our lab, by the second lab session 30% of the students meters were broken. A few of us with the assistance of a frustrated lab instructor managed to get the department to buy the lab new Keysight meters and the school bookstore had to buy back all the shitty broken meters. They never really admitted fault, but at least they fixed the problem.

[@aaronnorman9755]

Our meters were like $40 and had the same shit quality

[@imnotbeluga007]

This is also why old stuff exists. In Czechoslovakia, schools used to get a big multiple scale analog multimeter - insert the right scale, and everything else is reconnected to measure anything. I'll edit this comment when I find suitable photos.

[@TheDIYGuy999]

Why a using fuse, if the tracks can be used as a fuse 😂

[@crusaderanimation6967]

@Maxent Baillet No no no fuse is useful that is why tracks are fuse XD

[@ches74]

Or the leads for that matter!

[@redoverdrivetheunstoppable4637]

nokia 3210 chargers used a track as fuse, but it's on the low voltage side, also it says 3.7V DC but it doesn't have a capacitor and it's like 8V

[@maracachucho8701]

With enough watts, anything can be a fuse :D

[@309electronics5]

Fusseless

[@b8702131]

Oh wow. That's EXACTLY the multimeter I have been using for 7 years! Seriously! Just for light duty though. Already replaced the probes with good ones after the old one broke at the tip. EDIT: I just opened it and the PCB layout is a little different and bigger. For the one seen in the video, the manufacturer decided to cut even more corners. Still no fuuuuse. That's niiiice.

[@trcostan]

I saw a HVAC guy using one of these measuring between 480v phases once! He told me he looses too many meters to get proper ones! They are used out in the field way too often!

[@exgenica]

I'm pretty sure I wouldn't want an "HVAC guy" who is constantly losing important things (like tools) to be working on any systems in my buildings or attached buildings. I can just hear him talking to himself about a new replacement circuit breaker...or similar safety-related component..."Well, if the new part's not here where I put it, then someone must have replaced and tossed-out the old one."

[@willrobbinson]

one day ! he might regett it

[@mariushmedias]

Well, they could reduce risk of leads melting by writing on it "10A for maximum 15s then wait 5 minutes" or something like that. Some Uni-T do this, in order to prevent overheating the current shunt inside.

[@1pcfred]

The meters we get exactly like this one have a warning of 30 seconds.

[@abdullahk0405]

It already have a warning text

[@johnrubensaragi4125]

Non-repetitive

[@alijabari8715]

I've had one of these for 6 years and its still okay. gets the job done pretty well. it was interesting to see it under pressure though. thank you for your videos specially ones which have some circuit analysis :)

[@vstoykovbg]

My old DT-830B (from the last decade of the previous century) survived the "connect to the mains in ammeter mode" test. However, I used it in 10A mode (with the red probe connected to the 10A connector). It melted the front of the probes, but it still worked after this. It had 200mA fuses and I changed them alot.

[@DrBeat-zs9eb]

I really like your tests of cheap tools!

[@johncuzzourt2118]

I have several of these "free" meters from Harbor Freight. The probes are so bad that I don't even bother picking them up in the store any more. Thanks for blowing one up. The arc going through your power strip was concerning. Did you look inside it after the event?

[@CharlieRAnimaMX]

not much happens really, only small bubbles of molten metal and a little soot from the smoke form where it touches the tip. Similar to when you hot plug in some high charge and it leaves marks on the blades of the plug. relatively they always survive, since even in a house with fuses they will blow before the plug is damaged, or the same cheap wire will melt sooner inside and cut the circuit Or well that happens in a 120V AC system

[@VEKTOR_87]

When World is Ending @DiodeGoneWide : Thats Nice NICE VIDEO KEEP IT UP

[@gregsmith2262]

Bloody hell LOL

[@krisu9127]

Sicario Blood Itneligence😂😂😂

[@weerobot]

ROFL

[@n0madfernan257]

really love your comedic way of reviewing these dangerous products marketed as "safe". learned and laughed along the way. cheers.

[@Mehmetyldrm_]

"BLADI HEEEEL" 6:31 I love how it just silently exploded XD

[@Cadwaladr]

I paid like $12 for my first multimeter, and it works fine, but I accidentally shorted the mains through it, and I found out that it does have a fuse, sort of, i.e, the trace on the board, which completely blew off. I fixed it by just soldering a thin wire (so that it can still be a fuse I guess) across where the trace went, so it still works fine.

[@erikziak1249]

Good meter. Cheap price, great value for money. Solid build, with pretty design. Lightweight, flexible colored cables. Lifelong warranty. ;-)

[@sourekpetr]

I am just wondering how long had you been torturing the cables with 10A? Just out of curriosity some, even „goog“ brands give you max 10s on this much Amps. So I am wondering this multimeter didn’t get out so badly at all, if you know its limitations and I am positively surprised.

[@semiRockethr]

Exactly. If you keep it away from mains, it is a nice meter!

[@arpitjain4025]

@@semiRockethr i use to measure only DC volts below 12v and DC amps below 1amp with this meter and this meter gone wild and now shows incorrect readings

[@YellowToad]

*g o o g*

[@Jwalk-v9k]

@@arpitjain4025 elaborate

[@nobody-vw9ci]

Can you use the display to make an alarm clock?

[@cosimo8046]

I have one of those, but it looks like a different version inside. If you just use them for low voltage, for 3€ they are extremely good. Mine took quite a lot of abuse. The 20/200 mA range is no longer working after i shorted a 18650 with it. Still useful to monitor voltages, continuity, check shitty resistors values or even for the uA ranges sometimes. If you use it properly it is decent.

[@mattikaki]

Again nice to hear your English. BUT never hold the probes with two hands when measuring the mains voltage. If the probe or wire insulation leak, you can get electrocuted. We professionals ( and amateurs, I hope) keep one hand in pocket or behind the back when measuring mains voltages or high voltages.

[@Mark1024MAK]

mattikaki - in general this is good advice. However if using good quality probes (that actually meet the relevant CAT specification) from a manufacturer (and supplier) that is trusted, then for some tests, you have to use both hands. For example, when fault finding on live electrical/electronic systems, or when testing to prove that an electrical system is indeed dead after an isolation (testing for dead). In these situations the use of croc clips is strongly discouraged as they would be an even greater safety hazard. Also if using a multimeter (or voltmeter) on mains voltage systems, or higher voltage systems, you should really be using lead/probe sets that have a fuse in each probe.

[@teamdougherty]

I have several of these meters. I always get one when Harbor Freight has a free coupon. They are great to leave in the car, boat or camper. You never know when you need some quick troubleshooting. They work well enough for basic stuff.

[@TheFanUniverse]

I had this exact multimeter. It was given by my teacher, and it wasnt workig. After some invetigation, i saw that the board on it was melted. So i destroyed it.

[@lauchlanstill6677]

Some good teacher

[@kostependrhs]

I got the same multimeter and i tell you its quite good if you know what you re doing. Sure the test leads are garbage. And you have to remember there is no fuse inside. The accuracy is not super great but its quite stable device and works.

[@hamiltonbros2005]

6:28 3, 2, 1, Bloody Hell!

[@abdullahhasan1769]

i have 3 of these meters since last 20 years ........... still working fine ...... :)

[@AnalysisAsia]

I think diode gone wild love smoke and explosion

[@christiangerardocenar3849]

your accent gives me a smile hehe. love the videos man i learn a lot watching your contents.

[@kralg]

For all tests the multimeter passed perfectly, except the purposely abusive one. This multimeter is perfect for one who is using it for low voltage or even checking mains voltage sometimes. When getting nearby higher voltages you need to be aware of the risk. If you are just someone who cannot take care of what you are doing, just do not use a multimeter at all, no matter what brand and quality.

[@Tremor244]

I have this same multimeter, HAHAHA **explodes**

[@arashm1911]

Its Feels Weired.... i had this Accident one night My Multimeter was More crap then this... the Amp Meter Was Dead But everything Is Ok

[@DarkGT]

I have the same model, for something so cheap it does the job. I use it only to test continuity and DC voltage. The probs doesn't always give accurate readings, so measure twice and press hard on the surface.

[@cuf_]

That guy is the best. never care about accent if the content is pure!

[@garyhardman8369]

I just love the way you say "Bloody Hell".

[@exgenica]

I suggest it wasn't so much "arcing" between the two conductors at 07:39, but it is more likely there was a solder "blob" or "tailing" that decreased the gap between those two conductors and that is what caused the damage in that section of the board. Those two conductors look too far apart to arc at normal mains voltage levels.

[@DrZipZwan]

I actually got one, I know cable are shitty, so just get a better cable. I added a fuse holder + a fuse in it. Some of us are just hobbist and need a multimeter to handle 12v/ 5v, and it does the job.

[@bosesebi6685]

Its actually very impressive how it handled everything and also being super accurate in reading. 10 amps shouldn't be measured for more than few seconds in any multimeter. Because 10 amps powers huge industrial machines.

[@qubolo]

Quite entertaining to watch a multimeter explode. I didn't know that can happen if you forget what range you have set.

[@ketanmorajker]

Diode is really gone wild🔥😂👍👌

[@Selcuk9805]

metergonewild

[@rrussell39]

I love the 'smoke tests' while on cardboard with a whatever that is background (foam, cloth?)...you live on the edge dude! lol

[@fikrinoh1135]

I also have one. But the model is 830D. The black probe wire has broken after a few months of use. And the selector becomes loose after one of the small ball (I don't know how to call it but it is placed on the spring of the selector) suddenly comes out. Plus, the resistor measurement isn't working normally anymore.

[@Mark1024MAK]

Fikri Noh - I think the name you may want is ball bearing.

[@BPantherPink]

Danyk is a sweetheart in explaining and analyzing stuff ❤️

[@combycat]

Uhhh, what?? That’s his name?

[@BPantherPink]

@@combycat Yes...check out his website 👍

[@zolatanaffa87]

120% more of tensione but I was really scared by the tiny insulation of the wire i really dont want to hold in my hands the probes when measuring more than 400 volts!

[@stefanr.3495]

Surprised the bloody thing handled 10A like a champ, with only the probes getting fkd! :))) Btw, great accent! Keep up good work!

[@deepfriedcircuit]

I have a relatively cheap but sturdy multimeter. Like most, it has a port for 10A current, which basically creates a short circuit if one accidentally connects it to anything in parallel. It has a 10A fuse between the 10A port and the common port, but that was not sufficient to prevent a short circuit when I forgot to put the probe back into the voltage port before measuring mains voltage. Thankfully I was measuring the mains voltage through a power strip that had what I think was a 5A fuse in it. When I took out the blown fuse, I found that it had melted from one end, and the interior was somehow covered in a thin, mirror-like layer of metal. My guess is that the end cap melted and air rushing in (maybe there was a vacuum in the fuse to prevent arcing) splattered the metal all over the glass. Anyway, the fuse was absolutely pulverised, and I had no way of knowing what its rating was. Another person in the comments mentioned that their meter's probe melted before the internal 10A fuse blew. Maybe it would be a good idea (If one does not plan to measure high current) to replace a multimeter's 10A internal fuse with a lower rated one, so that it blows before anything important explodes.

[@kruemmelbande5078]

My not so cheap multimeter cant even handle 10a over a long time.. it says the fuse breakd the circute at 10A after 10s

[@AnandKumar-ym9yw]

03:44 it is written 10ampear for 10 second

[@josecastro3833]

I enjoy your videos. Keep teaching us ! Regards from Spain.

[@NeuroPulse]

Thank you. I needed a more, shall we say, concrete explanation of why cheap and high voltage don't mix.

[@dadul20]

i purchased for 0.8$ from the local market.. and surprisingly have been using that for the last 12 years no problem.. i replaced the wire with new good wire and crocodile clip.. also replaced the battery several times (0.2$ each)

[@teslakovalaborator]

Čokoláda z výprodeje opět v akci :)

[@michalborud]

Tak tohle by určitě nedaly i dražší měřáky 😁

[@maxthewincat]

I actually used this multimeter for long time, but it broke and started showing trash on lcd. Only thing I had to replace are probes because they fell apart.

[@legominimovieproductions]

Needed to measrure 230v ac some days ago, shut everthing down, plugged multimeter and and got power back on from safe distance XD luckily, no detonation ;)

[@John_Smith__]

Who does not have a 830B dmm. They are everywhere. I think there was a store in the US that gave them away in purchases combined with some of their products. They are not actually bad as dmm's. But indeed their protection is very bad. The leads literally melt if they are subjected to 10A ... :) nice experiment :) And I was actually surprised to see it hold the 1200V DC test as well as the AC test ... So they are actually good dmm's ... but simply their protection is truly bad .

[@robertdouville74]

I like your smoke tests!

[@1aicrag]

Bloody Hell! Love the way the way he pronounces it. But also love hi videos. And his cat.

[@Purple431]

I love your Czech accent and I love your channel

[@CEzikMaj]

He shorted his mains to test the multimeter. I love it.

[@petermichaelgreen]

Mind you the fuse for a proper multimeter can cost more than this multimeter did.

[@MrProooosit]

I have one but only use to 14.4v dc maximum, cool to see this about it.

[@1pcfred]

The meters we get like that have a warning label on back that instructs not to run 10 amps for more than 30 seconds. There is a cut in your video at 3:20 so it is impossible for me to say how long you had to exceed the time limit before you managed to get the leads to fail. But you'd almost reached the limit at the cut. So did your meter not have the same warning label or are you just bad at following instructions?

[@deepfriedcircuit]

I once saw a meter that said "10A for no more than 10 seconds"!

[@1pcfred]

@@deepfriedcircuit yeah the current shunt in cheap meters can't handle current for very long. They calibrate them by crimping them. There's a heavy wire in there and they halfway cut into it. That neck down is the sense resistance.

[@janno288]

I have The same Multimeter ! ( Bought it in 2011 still no acident)

[@GRBtutorials]

2:58 On the bright side, the insulation seems thick enough for 1000 V...

[@jeraldleung6009]

It is just for short time measurement. Wonder If you use Fluke, put it on max amp for hours to the cables will melt or not

[@guerrillaradio9953]

Good idea to put a diode in series with the probes. Expensive meters have them.

[@waldevv]

I've got some cheap multimeter I got from ebay for like 8 bucks, it looks like a fake fluke meter and it's actually worked really well for me except it came with similar leads that broke off very quickly, so I bought some new leads for it and now it's perfect. I would never stick it into high voltage though, but I'm not experienced enough to mess with that anyway so it's fine for me

[@charlesadrianneruben6088]

I love this guy and I stop buying cheap multimeters of course, thanks men :-)

[@ches74]

At $3 you got good value. Some spares and a jump scare video, winning!

[@Navisir]

Smoke and explosion? Instant click

[@playbyan1453]

Thanks, I have those multimeter. You teaches me how to be careful with that multimeter :)

[@viktorkovarik]

I've got same model for same price and it has fuse, I think it varies piece by piece.

[@benhetland576]

That could be it! They got their say in the "varied working position" demand, so now they get to decide at will wether to add a fuse or not as each unit passes by on the assembly line.

[@AnimousArchangel]

I'm using the exact same multimeter. Mostly use to check the voltage of my rechargeable NIMH AA battery since it the charger dont have any indication whether its full or not. Usually when it is 1.4V i consider the battery is full.

[@1thearmada]

You only proved that it's a damn good instrument for that price

[@KomiyanVT]

I like the way there was more fire in the power-board than the multimeter XD

[@patrick4247]

3:25 Can you see the smokeeeeee? - That's niiiiiiceeee!

[@scaramonga]

LMAO!!! God!, I just love your videos, so funny and sarcastic, and that accent just does it for me, in a nice way, lol. :) Thx for this :D

[@jimmyramkisoen191278]

Good price for young starting engineers :)

[@stevenspmd]

I wondering if the adding a fuse in the provided position would have any effect? I definitely wouldn't trust the meter anyhow but adding some safety is better than nothing; then again maybe the best thing is just to toss the thing out. :-)

[@arvin2360]

I tried the fused one and tested it on stun gun. Now the multimeter stops working, any idea which component burnt? The fuse is fine btw

[@Mr371312]

When I see smoke: "oh sht what now" When he sees smoke: *nice*

[@YoDay]

Next time if you get one more multimeter like this, please do the Microwave Transformer test too !

[@FM_PERON2022]

So you can solder a fuse to those contacts?

[@laernulienlaernulienlaernu8953]

I can’t believe that a $3 multimeter doesn’t meet stringent safety standards!

[@deepfriedcircuit]

Truly astounding!

[@edgarkoterle]

Taký merák mám aj ja akurát že v "bezpečnej" verzii od UNI-T (je tam aj poistka, aj varistory, aj celkovo lepšia vnútorná izolácia a prevedenie), káble sú také isté ktoré som kvôli vytrhnutiu z hrotov kupoval už asi 3x (jedna sada stojí v našom elektre 1€) a pri poslednej kúpe som na vrch nalial Chemoprén na obuv a teraz sa to už ani nepohne. Na tom mojom je dokonca aj napísané pri zdierkach upozornenie "10A max. 15 sec, each 15 min" takže to majú ošetrené aspoň takto, ale žiadny multimeter nie je blbuvzdorný, chcel by som vidieť nejaké drahšie keby si ich pripojil natvrdo do skratu v zásuvke...

[@romanblecha4663]

Tvoje angličtina a dikce je stejně kvalitní jako ten multimetr.

[@lukaszavada]

For English speakers: Your English and diction have the same quality as the multimeter #NoHate

[@AnttiPW]

No, that's not typical Czech accent.

[@kadergumus2598]

Shhh. You hate his accent (Czech accent) so much that multimeter = his English (!)

[@zahradnick]

Ty máš zase špatný smysl pro humor - on tak mluví schválně - mě ten akcent pobavil...

[@mfr04]

many KZbinrs review such multimeters and say they are “suitable for beginners” probably because they are cheap and meet basic measurement needs. In my opinion, a multimeter like that is only suitable for use by professionals who fully understand the risks of using a multimeter and only in emergency situations when their main multimeter is not available.

[@agoogleuser9025]

LOL! Entertaining. How come in my Physics class though we had to use an Ammeter and Voltmeter separately and the multimeter we used for measuring resistors only.

[@shana_dmr]

As someone who had to teach introductory electronics/physics/metrology labs I'll say that replacing fuses in the meters after each lab gets old quick. When we were using cheap digital multimeters we went through a 100-pack of fuses every semester.

[@Aualas]

In my opinion, the most problems of theses multimeters are the probes.The wire broke so easy and when you will buy a probe is almost price of multimeter rs

[@stefanr.3495]

It's exploded, here, here, here and here. Here as well, here, here, here!

[@yosoy1loco]

To be fair you should have put the good meter under the same stress to demonstrate the difference.

[@Neo_Chen]

I just got the same model as yours, no wonder it seems so familiar.

[@geekboy6655]

Does installing a fast 0.5A/250V fuse in this empty space makes any sense to prevent overcurrent?

[@gloomyblackfur399]

I'm surprised it held up to that voltage so well.

[@skirnir-atf]

Up to 2000V DC - i tested, but cant recommend abuse it like this. Cheep inside die soon.

[@juanagustincarrion1497]

What is your opinion about UNIT multimeters? like the ut33c model

[@RadOo]

That feel that mine bought in Czech Republic survived mains through unfused 10A range 😂, although the current sensing is gone, which is fine to me be because the rest of it is fine 😂

[@sayansarkar4168]

1. Buy things 2. Check its working circuit and property 3. Check safety 4. Make things explode 😂😂

[@MrMaxeemum]

Love your videos, can you say "bloody hell" more I love the way you say it. Cheap multimeters are ok especially with decent probes but only for low voltage. Its much easier to have a few lying around instead of using expensive meters.

[@andiyladdie3188]

You can use front cover for the older type that you have.

[@abbassielectronic3529]

plz i damged my multimetre dt9005a ... it was on diode mode and plug it in 220 v ... and how can i fix it and how i check the dameged componenets on circuit

[@sandzejs6537]

3:25 what about the smoke? 4:00 what to buy then?

[@Mar_OOnn]

Křižík-Praha :) from my czech country bro !

[@nikiamz6501]

6:31 it popped like a popcorn 😂😂😂