30" LED Light Bar Install | Polaris RZR XP1K / XP Turbo | How To

SuperATV’s 30” Light Bar is just what you need to get the most out of every ride. Why? Because a good light bar means you don’t have to stop riding when the sun goes down. With brightness that will give the sun a run for its money and strength to take on the rough rides you love, you can ride from sundown to sun up. We let you choose from a straight or curved light bar so you can illuminate the largest possible area and ride safe. Ride on dunes, trails, or rocks, just make sure you let SuperATV light your way.
Sit back and see what it takes to get SuperATV's 30" light bar installed onto a Polaris RZR XP Turbo.
FEATURES
Curved and straight options available
Combination spot and flood light
180w total power consumption per light
12.7 amp draw at 12V
14,400 lumens
50,000 hour LED lifetime
Easy to install
Padded aluminum mounting brackets
Cage, low profile roof, and hood brackets also available
Working temperature: -40 F - 140 F
Includes rocker switch and wire harness
IP68 water resistant rating (immersion up to 1.5 meters for up to 30 minutes)
Get your light bar today:
www.superatv.com/shop/polaris...
#SuperATV #UTVLights #BuiltForBattle

[@michaellongueuil1732]

His video helped me out a lot. Thanks.

[@SuperATVMedia]

Glad to hear it!

[@osbaldofelix8266]

🔥

[@nickgagliardi6721]

I dropped one of the nuts when I was putting on the light bar, what size is the nut when first taking off? Do you know the size please vs me taking the machine to the store and having them come out and look

[@davidcollett5590]

Damn fuse blew. Got to go buy another one. Thanks to the guy that commented on here saying to go get a 25 amp fuse. Going to get a bad review on your website due to this.

[@gamingforhumanity6659]

Ya they kinda don't talk about the draw from the accessories and the light is more than 15amps. I'm powering 25 amp fuse that never blows with light bar and 2 pod lights.

[@mikee76427]

Please read my post.

[@mikee76427]

All: Do not just change your accessory fuse to a higher amp rating. Fuses are designed to protect the wires on their circuits and all you're likely to do by putting a 25 amp fuse on that circuit is eventually melt the wiring somewhere on the circuit, which will be a big pain to fix. I watched this video before I got this light bar from SuperATV for my 2020 XP1K and I knew something wasn't right about the video because it was going to put the entire amp load on the accessory terminal. When I got my light bar and looked at the wiring harness, it was obvious that the wiring harness I got was meant to be wired directly to the battery and not the buss bar under the front hood. It was exactly like the one in the video, except that the red fused wire and the black wire had much bigger ring terminals than in the video. Another clue is that the long length of this harness indicates it was meant to route to the battery. IF YOU'RE COMFORTABLE MODIFYING THE WIRING HARNESS AND YOU HAVE THE SAME ONE IN THE VIDEO, here's the best way to wire this: Unplug the wiring bundle from the relay. Look at the bottom of the relay and you'll see a terminal labeled "30". Carefully cut back the heat shrink from the relay plug close to the side of the plug that plugs into that "30" terminal. You don't have to remove the shrink wrap completely, but you'll need to uncover a couple of inches of the wires along with the plug. You should see two wires going into that "30" connector: one red and one white (if you don't, don't proceed because your harness may be different). Cut the WHITE WIRE ONLY as close to the relay plug as possible and pull back some of that white wire so it's sticking outside the wiring harness. Put the shrink wrap back in place and wrap it well with electrical tape, leaving the white wire sticking out. Depending on where you mount the relay, you'll likely need to use a butt splice and more wire to make the white wire longer because it needs to be connected to the accessory (far left) buss bar terminal. The black wire goes to the center buss bar terminal, and the fused red wire goes to the constant positive (far right) buss bar terminal. If those two ring terminals on your harness are as big as the ones on mine, you'll have to cut them off and replace them with smaller ones to get them to fit on the buss bar terminals. Wiring it this way will make the load on the accessory circuit very small and it will still require the key to be in the Accessory position for the light bar to work. I did it this way and it works great -- no blown fuse!

[@danny192]

So, red fused wire to battery, white wire (cut from relay) to ACC (far right) buss terminal, black to ground (center) terminal? I'm lost. I hooked by bar up direct to battery but would like to have it on ACC. Also the fuse I keep blowing is the 10A Terminal Fuse, not Accessory. Thank you in advance for your reply.

[@mikee76427]

@@danny192The 10A fuse that controls the far left buss bar terminal on my 2020 XP1K is labeled "TERM ACCY". I'm not 100% sure what you're referring to as the "Terminal Fuse". Do you want to keep the harness red wire and harness black wire connected to the battery or do you want to move them to the buss bar? Either way is fine, but I need to know before I answer your question above. Since you've already got them attached to the battery, I'm wondering if you want to keep them there.

[@klittle3147]

Trying to wire my light bar your way so the rocker switch isn’t always hot. Are you saying the white wire from the 30 on the relay needs to be wired to the ACC side? If I cut it as close to the relay as possible, that leaves no wire left to send it to the ACC side (?). Or do I cut it on the harness side and connect that end to the ACC side? Thanks

[@mikee76427]

@@klittle3147 You cut the white wire as close to the relay plug as possible. I noted in my post above that you'll likely need to use a butt splice and more white wire to then be able to extend it to the far-left ACC terminal of the buss bar -- unless you want to pull the white wire completely out of the protective sheath it's in with the other wires after you cut it; then it might be long/free enough to get to the buss bar.

[@gersonperez3252]

Can I do it directly to the battery????

[@gamingforhumanity6659]

This will only work if you up your accessories fuse otherwise it will blow place a 25 amp In it. And your good.

[@mikee76427]

Please read my post.

[@justinmiller33]

I’ve recently started having problems with my light bar. Whoever owned it before me has wired a relay in with the light. Can anyone tell me why it would need a relay?

[@mikee76427]

@@justinmiller33 A relay simply contains a switch that uses low-current power to turn on/off a circuit that high-current fixtures like light bars are on. Relays must be used if you're using a dash-mounted switch that's not designed to handle the full current draw (amps) of the light bar, and/or if you're wanting your light bar to only work when the key is in the accessory position. In those cases, the dash-mounted switch is used to simply turn on/off the electromagnetic switch inside the relay, which requires very little current to turn on/off.

[@CrumbScum]

Does this work with the full glass windshield?

[@SuperATVMedia]

This will not work with our glass windshield.

[@ffskywalk]

I keep blowing fuses when installed like this.

[@gamingforhumanity6659]

Your accessories fuse is a 15 amp change it to a 25 amp

[@mikee76427]

Please read my post.

[@matthewwoodbury91]

I dont think i like the way he ran the wire on the frame...you go thru thick brush or tip your machine then your splitting the wire in half