300x300 PEI Sheet on K1 Max

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

K1 Max: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2374200&u=3447554&m=124834&urllink=&afftrack= K1 MAX-use code TIER50 to save extra $50! This video description contains affiliate links. I earn a commission on qualifying sales made using that link. Creality provided the K1 Max free of charge.

[@Bazzerk1978]

Just used code thank you. What pei sheet is that.

[@cbscbs]

I had lots of bed adhesion failures with multiple PETG filaments with the K1 Max stock sheet. Ordered a texted PEI sheet. Will cut notches to match stock sheet.

[@Liberty4Ever]

That's a BIG first layer! Checking your channel now to see how it printed. A 3D printer needs a nearly optically flat bed that stays flat when heated and cooled. That's not easy.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

It turned out OK. Not at all great, but good enough if you have low standards :P

[@0x187]

Is there really much leveling that you could do on the K1 max or is the auto leveling good enough? What do you consider like? OK and good enough sorry I just got my new printer today.

[@sabahoudini]

Nice! What's the enclosure temperature inside when printing ABS?

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

Good question, Will see if I can figure that out. The chamber has its own thermistor, but it doesn't read out anywhere. I think I'll need to wait for klipper to be able to know for sure.

[@sabahoudini]

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks. I think the glass has a worse (higher) thermal U-value than polycarbonate but it's thicker so may be better still. PLA performance is important while prototyping but the final part has to be ABS or better and without a heated chamber at say 80 degrees we are all just printing suboptimal parts that have crappy layer adhesion compared to the big boy industrial printers so the higher the chamber temp the better. The parts may look good but there are internal stresses weakening the parts. Optimally you would want to cool the part to slightly below glass transition and then let the whole print cool down slowly at the same time after it's finished.

[@JoseAguiloworkshops]

Nice bro!

[@Khuna_Tech]

Would you mind posting a link for that Pei sheet

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I had to grind the notches in the back, and it’s not perfect but here is what I started with HICTOP 310x310 PEI Sheet Cr-10s PEI Magnetic Build Plate PEI Spring Steel for CR-10 CR-10S Artillery SW-X1 X2 3D Printers

[@Redo3D]

seems to be a lot of uneven spots. What has been your experience? I have not seen anything better than the Prusa MK4 and XL first layer and I was really hoping the K1 would be on par

[@madcannon3162]

Loadcell is difficult to beat tbh.

[@Redo3D]

​@madcannon3162 thats what the k1 is using also I thought

[@nunovicente34]

@@Redo3Dthe K1 uses load cells on the bed like the Bambu

[@sabahoudini]

The reason you say that is because of nostagia/fanboyism. Prusa is from the previous decade.

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

It's not as good as the Bambu Lab. Toward the back it was overextruding, but its... Good enough? Not great, but I guess good enough

[@Erw-In]

I want this printer! And then I found out 'chamber temp above 30°C the the top panel must be removed when printing PLA'.. this has something to do with heat from the motor creeping over to the extruder.. Could you please verify/test this?

[@Kennyy212]

Filaments like PLA don’t need an enclosure and the faster to cool the better. Most including me just print a riser that has vents you can open and close. It’s great when printing ABS and ASA because it keeps the print warm.

[@Aeros-tech]

Cool

[@rickyneeter69]

Annoying beeping sound