327 Chevy Cam break in

Cam break in

[@johnhayes9437]

it's been 20 years or so since I successfully built a chevy engine and my first attempt after all this time was a dismal failure...it wiped the cam in 10 minutes flat. I gave up after finding out too late all about the zinc and other additives necessary for flat tappet cams, and had no luck sourcing a decent oil to use for break in..... until I found your channel. I was first attracted to your vids by the cylinder head best and worst videos. When I watched the wihich oil should I use vid, I am now gearing up to rebuild that sbc 400 again. Just a backyard hack with some machine shop experience and lots of reading ... and lately lots of internet school. Thanks for all the vital information.... I'm off the couch and on my feet again now that I have a direction.

[@dblackkw]

I'm in the same boat I'm so glad I learned about the high zinc and the new break in protocol.

[@mattperkins7038]

I have commented on another video as well, and I don’t understand how this is happening to everyone. I’ve done multiple hyd flat cams and never wiped one. I always use European formula 0w40 Mobil ( I think it has ZDDP). I believe it’s junk lifters causing the problems and the zinc is helping? My father bought a tray of Delphi lifters in the early 80s and any new cam I do gets them. I know I will get heckled for commenting this, but i wanted to give my two cents. Also I never have done the 2500 rpm for several minutes. I know a cam is splash lubed, but how come I can prime my engine with a drill (400 rpm drill) and oil is pouring through the pushrods and I have 50 plus psi etc? Shouldn’t that be enough oil psi regardless? I’m not doubting the zinc as a problem, but I need some explanation of the 2500 rpm for a half hour. Logically thinking that the cam is going to get oil, even at idle. Idk guys, do what works best for you, but I am going to continue what’s worked for me in the past. Those NOS oem Delphi lifters are out there on eBay still. They’re pricey but worth it. VL-66 is the lifter number my father bought decades ago and the have a hardened base.

[@mikejones2200]

I part timed it in the Base Auto Hobby Shop while in the USAF in '71. Had 2 2nd Lt student T38 pilots build up a dream 66 Vette, SJ327 over 20 with a 30-30 Duntov cam. Money was no object, but it was DIY pride. They asked me how I would break it in if it were mine. I told them I would take out the inner valve springs, put a QUIET exhaust system on it, set initial timing statically with a test light, set up carb on a running car first, then run the engine for 30 minutes between 2200 and 2700. They started it up about an hour later and watched it idle at about 850 or so while they played with the timing, for 45 min or so. They were smiling and slapping each other on the back. Good oil press/temp. Next day they showed me the break in oil they drained out - GRAY with silver streaks! "What do we do now, Sarge? Just smiled and said "Start over!" Cam & lifters were just shredded, I've never seen anything like it since. Great Vid, Great Channel. 67YO male, subscribed, rural CO. BTW: They redid it, correctly. It was way fast... lol It was way expensive bc of not listening. It humbled them just a little. I told them that they probably listened to their instructors in flight school, so??

[@mikeq5664]

Great video Myvintageiron...saved me a cam... watched many of your videos and encouraged me to start my own rebuild..... last time I did one I was in High School 40 years ago... , working on a chevy 350 now... you know your stuff!

[@edvisme]

Hello. I have been lurking on your KZbin page for sometime now and I have finally subscribed. I am in my 50's and have built a lot of different GM V8 Engines. These videos here have taught this ole dude a thing or two and I thank you greatly for that. I want to share something with you that I had done back when I was a young guy. It must have been mid 1980's, I had my first car (77' Chevy Nova.) The car had its original 350/350 combo in it that had well over 100.000 miles on it. It ran fair but could hear a rocker or two clattering due to camshaft wear. At that time in my life I was doing boat cover installs on boats. I would travel all over the State doing all types of custom cover installs. I was at a Marine shop one day when I was in their shop installing a convertible top on a boat while next to my project the mechanic there was doing a R&I of a boat engine. It was the Volvo Penta (SBC 350). I was talking with the Mechanic doing that install and he told me that the owner of the boat bought it brand new the season prior, used it all summer then parked it on the trailer in his driveway. The owner didn't winterize the thing so when January come the freeze blew both sides of that engine out. So here I was standing there looking at this Volvo Penta that had the sides blown out. I asked the mechanic "What will happen to this engine now?" He told me it was scrap iron. I asked him if I could salvage some parts off of it for my 350 in the Nova. He said go right ahead. I ended up taking the rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, cam and timing set. I tossed all of those pieces loosely into a cardboard box and set it in the truck. Fast forward to about a month later. It was a Saturday, I had nothing else to do so I decided to tare into the Nova's engine. I removed all of the parts to get that old camshaft out. Heck, I didn't know much back then, I was in serious learnizm mode. I stuffed that boat cam into the block, slapped the lifters, pushrods, rocker arms back into wherever they seemed to fit. Once it was all back together I fired it up. That thing ran amazing! I don't know what the cam specs were but at 700 rpm it had a very wicked idle. I drove that car with that cam in it well into the 90's and it was running excellent when I sold the car. So with that being said, you and others have said to "ALWAYS make sire the lifters and related parts go back onto the cam lobes they were on prior." I suppose in this day and age with these crappy oils we have to choose from, that rule must be followed. It appears that back when I did this used cam swap, the oil I had used is probably what saved this random cam swap/lifter selection project. Anyway, hope you enjoyed the story from my youth. Keep on keeping on with the great video's here. I am learning little things with each one you publish. Thanks again! Eric.

[@Chevyv8man1]

Hey bud, I'm not telling you anything that you don't already know here. I love the old 327ci small block motor. I think it's the best motor Chevy ever made. Decent power, quick RPMs and ran forever as long as you took care of them - just love them. I know, the 350ci is also a great motor and most peoples favorite and the most popular but to me the 327ci just couldn't be beat. I grew up beating the piss out of small blocks Chevys (I'm 64 years old) and the 327ci always took the abuse. Another great motor was the 283ci as long as you didn't want a lot of power, but was great for a everyday driver (the wife's car). This reminded me of something that was a wake up call to doing research before starting any rebuilds or mods. When I was a kid my best friend had a 55 Chevy and it had a 265ci in it. We figured we would put a cam into it on a Sat night. Well we did everything right except we used a cam we had for a 327ci. Well, (as you may know) we failed in this upgrade. For the viewers - in case you didn't know, the cam on a 265ci is different then any other small block Chevys. The back of the rear journal has holes which allows the oil to be pumped up to the top end and what we did by installing a different cam was to stop ALL upper oiling. oops - learning mechanics can be expensive, but thank god we were paying attention and figured it out before it became a expensive learning curve . Just figured I'd add this in case anyone tried this themselves. Of coarse finding a 265ci isn't the easiest thing to do now-a-days. Later

[@shoominati23]

One of my favourite bike tuners used to say "Run in hard - quick engine. Run in Soft - slow engine"

[@savagem8043]

Absolutely love the videos. I have learned more from you than anyone else on the internet. Keep up the good work!

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Thanks

[@cloroxbleach118]

327 is my favorite engine. Nutty little revver... lots of hp. my dad did the exact same thing that you were talking about in the video. Went to jiffy lube to get the oil changed, and then ground a lobe completely flat, and you could tell, lol.

[@prometheus575]

Well done sir! +1 internets to you. Keep up the good work, you are a great lecturer, you should profess at a school. I was just looking for some extra tips, randomly found your video, and you laid it out quite well. One protip to add is to use the physically largest oil filter you can. Many oil filters mate the same way (they have the same threading/gasket diameter/overall fit...the same "face" if you will), but just have bigger "cans", and you likely have the room. For example, with a particular group of Nissans, VW's, almost all Toyotas, and select Fords, and especially classic Mercedes, you just use the oil filter for the diesel version instead (results may vary), and you have a filter twice the size for nearly the same cost, and plenty of room to fit it (I don't understand why any manufacturer insists on using the smallest possible oil filter when there is plenty of room for a larger/longer version of it). A mention you might have added was whether this matters with rollercams (many say it doesn't, but I insist on assuming it does...I say 'better safe than sorry'). You could have easily squeezed in how to setup rollercams (like forcing graphite lube especially into the roller), and just generally coating the entire cam and lifters with graphite spray prior to assembly. This also adds another "sacrificial layer" to the cam, and the assembly lube seems to stick-and-stay better. Also, in case of "oil drought" (which can occur momentarily before oil pressure properly builds), it will minimize steel-on-steel contact for long enough to give the oil a chance to arrive after bleeding off the air in the system. I also add oil to the engine with the rocker covers off, pouring specifically over the moving parts in the head. *Then* I put the rocker covers on and ready it for startup, so I at least know that oil is already waiting around valve seals and stems, as well as pushrod journals (when applicable). I use this practice with overhead cams by default. I'm not sure if it's an "old wive's tale" of sorts, but it was suggested to me that I add powdered graphite to the [non-detergent] engine oil on first break-in (before the first 500 mile mark), as in the same as lock lubricant. This is alleged to not only aid cam break-in, but is beneficial all around for a freshly-built engine. Another tip I got from someone was to bake the cam at about 300F-350F for 3 hours in low-viscosity, high detergent motor oil, then change that oil bath for 80-90W gear oil (diff/trans) while it cools down. This allegedly bonds the oil to the micro-fissures in the steel...much like you would use primer before paint. What is your take on any of this? Or anyone else for that matter?

[@ChristianCooper-soundwave]

This couldn't have come at a better time, thank you!

[@Woodman_Custom_Sawing]

Christian Cooper, can you say good timing? lol

[@shadymattuk]

I'm just transitioning from 4 bangers and straight sixes. Trading my 2.0T Saab for an '85 Z28 with a 327 from a '68 truck, flat top pistons, and a mild cam. I'll be checking in on your channel frequently to educate myself so I dont explode anything! Great videos, thank you!

[@ericjohnson8482]

Well made video, I've been chastised for years for telling people the same thing you are telling them. I've wiped a cam by using too much spring pressure on break in too. It's amazing at how little people really know but think they do.

[@peterluta1119]

Thanks for the videos. some of them have help me out a lot. We need more people like you.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Your Welcome

[@brandonjohnson8047]

Ever consider recording audio of the unique engines and builds running? I love hearing obscure blocks chuckling away.

[@l92375]

I have a small journal 327 im gonna fire up for the first time in the near future.I will be ordering that oil from somewhere when the time comes.My stepdad was a mechanic in the 60s and he said the exact same thing you did on non detergent oil for the first start up and the first 1000 miles or so.He told me how he learned that one the hard way.He put in a remanufactured 265 in a 56 Chevy and the customer brought it back and said it was using oil.He called the place he got the engine from and they told him about the non detergent oil for break in.They traded engines with him and life was good.Since then he always initially used non detergent.

[@skylinefever]

Thanks for explaining the timing light with advance built in. I never knew what they were made for until now. I almost always work on computerized engines, so I typically don't need a timing light.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Yea now days it's kind of a relic

[@richwahneEXPERTSmadeEasy]

GREAT Video!! Question...Comp Cams suggests we remove the inner spring, or install a lower ratio rocker arm during break-in (of course using the correct assembly lube and Hot Rod oil)...but I haven't heard you mention removing the inner spring or changing the rockers. What are your thoughts on this suggestion from Comp Cams?? Thank you!!

[@1971Frenchy]

Thank you again for all the amazing detailed information I'm building 2 sbc 409 and you've given me the confidence and knowledge to complete these correctly. I have a question what procedure and oil should I use to break-in these engines they are both retrofit roller cam and lifters and everything is new from crankshaft, piston and rings new heads everything is new??

[@danielscriver9726]

With break in, I don't understand why there isn't more attention to the oil filter used (Amsoil EA series, Mobil 1, Purolator Boss filters filter great with great flow rates), use of oil pan or filter neo magnets, and changing the oil very soon after initial break-in. "Break-in" means mating of metal and the creation of a lot of fine metal particulates in the oil. After break-in (30 minutes on dyno/stand) I change the oil, so basically at zero miles, then 100, 500, and 1000. I always fill the oil filter with oil before installing it (easy with sbc and bbc) I use synthetic the entire time, with a more slightly more aggressive driving than most folks recommend after full full warm up. When you spend 10k on an engine, an extra 100-200 on oil and filters to ensure a great break in is worth it in the real world and for peace of mine.

[@oscarpuente2029]

outstanding! great information!

[@darylewilson6895]

Great video I watched you build the 383 striker. Want to build one for my camaro any suggestion want as much hp as I can get out of it but still able to run on pump gas

[@fallguy72]

always watch your temperature! if you get hot break in in two 10 minute intervals. use zinc oil and make sure you are in a well ventilated area, outside is best!

[@Myvintageiron7512]

agreed if you hit 210 shut her down and take a second crack at it later

[@monadking2761]

Love your videos and the degree of detail you put in to building good quality motors. I have an orginal vintage personal experimental Joe lunati cam that he ground back in the late 60s even before their voodoo series. It was in a 62 283 that I had back in the day and it ran strong back then from 3,000 RPM and up. I'm building another 283 again with this cam since it had less the 300 miles on it and it has been preserved and re boxed. Would you suggest new lifters with this cam and brake it in again or run it like it's already been broken in with of course the proper high zddp break in oil? And what would you suggest for lifters regarding higher revving anti pump up lifters too. Thank you for your advice and keep on making excellent videos.

[@Nat-O]

God damn that cam is a lucky man

[@kenhutzler572]

Can't wait until you rebuild the 351/400 M I have one of my own and I just recently bought a stroker crank 408! It is for a 4 inch stroke and crank has 3 inch main journals, not sure if it will work for me, If it will work I need to get Pistons and rods in the book says I need connecting rods 6.580. Please advise me if possible thanks so very much! Ken

[@doughopkinsjr]

so additive zddp once engine has completed break in can I use additive in let's say Castrol 20/50 or does it need to be non detergent oil. I have been using Eastwood zddp additive in my race car with Castrol 20/50 am I causing more harm than good got confused when you started talking about Lucas then Brad Penn oil and the detergent part. thanks in advance

[@woof3598]

question I rebuilt my 327 15 years ago, added a new Crane cam and have been using normal Castrol oil, engine has been fine all these years, dont want to start a fight just looking for new info for an old engine

[@dansmukler941]

What if the motor was built prior to them removing the zinc from the oil? Do you need to run the high zinc oil or will the off the shelf oil work?

[@GnarshredProductions]

Myvintageiron7512- how do you feel about using the comp cams lifter bore grooving tool when building an engine with flat tappet lifters and camshaft? im thinking doing that might solve a lot of the issues people have with flat tappet cams, my theory is that the break in procedure requires it to be run at higher rpm because normally the camshaft is only lubricated by oil splash so the rpm is needed to get the oil slinging around inside the motor but im thinking with the lifter bores grooved so oil gets sprayed directly on the cam lobe whenever there is oil pressure would make sure it is getting plenty of lubrication even at idle as long as there is good oil pressure making keeping the rpm's up higher during break in possibly not needed or at least not as important? Im used to working on import honda engines like civics and our cams have lash pads the cam rides on which is metal to metal contact point we don't even use zddp oil and nobody ever wipes a cam lobe with those the camshaft sits in a spot where it gets dunked in an oil bath everytime it spins around so im thinking the zddp thing might not be as important and the real culprit of wiping out cam lobes may just be lack of enough lubrication due to a not as well thought out engine design with these older pushrod v8's which rely on oil splash to "hopefully" provide enough lubrication to the cam. What are your thoughts on this?

[@kirtv1]

Rebuilding a top end on SBC 327. Using an Edelbrock Top End Kit. What is the recommended break in oil for the Flat Tappet Hydraulic cam? I didn't see or hear the viscosity of the break in oil. Thoughts?

[@ericbhunt]

Proper assembly is a must as well

[@davidrice313]

My dad has a mid 80’s Chevy C-10 with a stock 305. Correct me if I’m wrong, but it should have a flat tappet cam in it. If that is right, does he need to run that hot rod classic oil or an equivalent in it?

[@russdavis1960]

I know this isn't a new video but, Looks as though, according to the SDS I'm looking at, Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40 has anywhere from 1000

[@brotherjesus4246]

Hello, curious is it possible to put new lifters onto a used cam. I understand the used lifter and cam but would new lifters just find a groove with the used cam?

[@garza4902]

Hi I have a 12-338-4 comp cam flat tappet camshaft and was wandering if it will work with my 91 Camaro TBI also I'm getting the flat tappet lifters, please let me know before i tear up my engine and find out it does not work.

[@65elcamino283]

you just saved me a cam....thanks!

[@WalterBarger-io9ck]

When you're using Lucas zinc oil do you have to add a extra additive to it? Thank you

[@lastfanstanding999]

cant you turn the engine using a 1/2 inch drill before you add plugs, gas and drop it into a car

[@paulkrol215]

Thanks for the awesome videos, I've found them very helpful. From your experience is it necessary to use different (lighter) valve springs for hydraulic flat tappet cam break-ins provided you're using the right oil and break in procedure?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

in some cases it is necessary to use lighter springs you should always use the cam manufacturer as a guide on this

[@bullfidde]

great video :-) i have a question about a number on my 327. the stamped numbers on the mashined Surface on the front of the Engine should be 2 but i have 3. what is the third number? 18S129598 , T1023HE , N6662C cheers from Sweden

[@mitchdodd9732]

can u do a video on carb tunning and also setting initial and total timing(awesome job as always 👍

[@Heavy_metal_rulez]

Very well said and very detailed!! That timing light is really cool! Would love to have one of those!

[@nerysalguero3956]

Desert88 Z28 you can pick up a timing light from just about any auto parts store. There about 40 bucks.

[@nerysalguero3956]

Marshy yup, I forget to say that the 40 dollar ones are basic. All they do is shine a light to show the timing mark in the balancer. If you want more gadgets then it'll be more. My bad for saying it.

[@Woodman_Custom_Sawing]

Nery Salguero, no worries. I bought the same exact light he has from Advance Auto. I had a 20% off purchases over $100 and saved some money. there really wasn't a "better" light for the money.

[@nerysalguero3956]

Marshy nice man, I just got the basic light. It's one my dad used to use. Sadly it's starting to kick the bucket. Imma try to grab one like the one you got. I could use some of them gadgets

[@Woodman_Custom_Sawing]

Nery Salguero, it has ability to do 2 stroke timing also.

[@fishingbrad7290]

Subscribed ! another great video. cheers.

[@joshvellieux8693]

is the break in for a hydraulic roller cam is the same as a hydraulic flat tap cam?

[@trentonschmidt8073]

What weight of joe Gibbs oil is best to run on a 350, would you run the br 5w30 or 10w40

[@DingDangg]

What happens if you’re having a hard time getting the motor to start or stay running?

[@ramonhernandez9292]

Question run thermostat or no thermostat while break in if so what’s a good degree temp 195?

[@franciscohuerta9860]

i got a 67 327 rated @275 hp can i make 400+ with a set of 906 vortecs / 700 dp/ Lt headers/ dual plain/ 1.5 rr / .490 lift cam or need more lift like .510?

[@braydonpokorney4193]

Thank you for explaining this!

[@mustardstain504d6]

Good content, but you missed one of the best oils on the market by far. Brad Penn/ Penn Grade. They offer a great break in oil and post with several that are semi-synthetic. The lubrication packages as you mentioned for older vehicles are formulated so that the detergent does't defeat the additives to protect flat tappet cams. I have yet to have a cam failure. Most of you remember Kendall. It's the "green" oil. Not ecologically speaking, but color. I ran it on the early 80's turbo cars I have because of oils like Castrol and such not holding up and quickly breaking down because of the lack of water cooled turbo housings that have made them reliable.

[@sandylake304]

Aren’t they hardened by the break in? So, just a quart additive, or all 4 quarts?

[@Bob79394]

Your videos are so educational. Will the bolt heads clear the timing gear?

[@UsefulEntertainment]

just getting ready to brake in a mondello cam on my olds 350 thank you. I have those same gloves by the way lol

[@Myvintageiron7512]

cool !!

[@dblackkw]

Can you give some tips on when and when not to hook the vacuum advance up after installing an aftermarket camshaft? Thank you in advance and I really value your knowledge and the time you take to describe in detail the " who what where when and how"

[@Myvintageiron7512]

hook it up

[@nathanstephenson7917]

2:12 and the manufacturers started to provision for roller cams in the mid-late 80s. My Monte SS had the bosses there, but they didnt put rollers into them until the 90s, probably the same time they axed the good additives in the oil.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

1986 first year

[@vincentsanders3312]

What are the best spark plugs to use for that engine

[@jaysammis5255]

Do you have a video for breaking in a solid roller cam with solid roller lifters?

[@DarthMayers]

Hi what do you think of the Valvoline™ VR1 oil for everyday use?

[@lilbill4779]

Any recommendations on priming the oil pump ?

[@thesledshop1917]

your videos rock. do you have a formula for a 1967 327 . i would like to be in and about 450 to 475 hp. thanks bruno

[@Shane-Singleton]

Good info as always!. That engine sounded pretty healthy at idle but not crazy. Should make for a very nice cruiser. Still trying to decide what i'm going to do with my K10. going to have a compression test done on the 350 that's in there. it's 38 years old so I imagine it's worn out pretty well. There are just so many choices to make. Rebuild the flat tappet original motor, upgrade to a later style roller like an L31 Vortec block, or just say screw it and go with a 5.3ls swap. In my research there isn't a large differential in price between the three if I can find a known good LS to toss in without rebuild.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

I would go with the LS if you can find a good one

[@MrElPoderozo1]

Hello! I was wondering if you can take a few minutes of your time to guide me in the right direction. I watched this video and you talked about oil, timing etc..and I learned that I should have the right oil and right timing and to let it run between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM without letting it idle. I am working on a 1977 360 AMC. I am using the Edelbrock Performer RPM Camshaft #7132 / lifters. The cam has .520 lift and it requires to use the right springs for cast Iron heads and so I had the heads done with new Stainless steel valves and the required springs wich are double springs. My question to you is... Do I have to remove the inner spring from the heads before installing them on the engine so the break in of the cam is correct? Or can I put the engine together with the dual springs like it should be for the break in of the camshaft? Also what timing should be used for the break in of the camshaft on a 360 AMC? I am looking forward to your answer and thanks again for ALL the videos.

[@nobody-xu8ju]

MrElPoderozo1 no and around 25 to 30 degrees

[@brotherjesus4246]

When do you change the break in oil? Immediately after break in?

[@coburnlowman]

Just a couple questions for you. I stopped the vid to check out different oild from Lucus. Their Break in oil is $29 a gallon from Summit. Is it ok or detrimental to use this "break in" oil after the initial break in and oil change? I have been using Shell Rotella T4 diesel oil for many years in everything I own. But have heard that it now has too much detergent for the benefits of the zinc. Durring that time of the EPA over stepping I had engines dropping like flies that had been babied their entire lives. After having several cams go bad for no reason I started calling Howard's , Crane , etcetera for a reason. They then told me to use the Shell Rotella T oil to save my engines. Now in not sure its the same blend as 20 years ago.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Rotella T has also been regulated by EPA I wouldn't use it now days

[@nathangresell1534]

Do you have anything against amsoil break-in oil?

[@shawn199060]

My question kind of opposing. What’s your thoughts on breaking in new rings with a flat tappet cam? I have a newly rebuilt motor and everything I read says rings need a load and cam just needs rpm. How do I properly break in both for a healthy engine life with no oil blow by?

[@warrenzevonsangryghost6055]

I'm sure you already figured this out by now, but for anyone else, cam break-in trumps all. Get the engine statically timed so it starts up fast, rev to 2000~2500 for 20 to 25 minutes (big box fan in front of radiator is a really good idea), shut off, change oil & filter. Fill up with conventional racing oil containing ZDDP (or just plain conventional oil + a ZDDP additive), and go drive the car, varying the engine speed throughout the useful range (I'd not spend much time near redline, but I'd not be too afraid to go there occasionally). I'd put 500~1000 miles on that oil, then change again to whatever oil you want (as long as it has ample ZDDP if we're still talking about flat tappets) and drive the car however you like.

[@patrickkennedy8663]

hi thanks I did a a rebuild on a gen 1 Chevy. on the first start I went to break in cam but I could hear one or two of my valves clicking. do I adjust the valves before of after. there hydraulic lifters by comp cams?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

adjust before before start up

[@robbieday88]

sounds really good

[@DjCBlaq]

Awesome video. I have a rebuilt shortblock waiting on my cam now. What assembly lube do you use on the bearings and cam?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

any high pressure assembly lube will work

[@lordsauto]

Hello would u have a number for that belt u use? crank to water pump. thanks

[@joepatenaude3957]

Currently putting in a cam in my 400 have havoline 10 40 with lucus zrod additive checking valve lash now

[@uprednecked]

what do you think about amsoil z-rod or dominator or premium protection oils or vavoline vr1 oil? also should i use a 10w-30 or a 10w-40 oil? I can also get bulk rotella 15w-40 at work but think it might not be good since oil changed for DPFs used on engines now. I cant get brad penn or driven or lucas in my town! it will be used for a 1966 chevy 250 stock engine

[@Myvintageiron7512]

driven or Lucas are the only two I will use for flat tappet cams Mobil 1 for all things roller it is very easy to order these oils online and they are delivered right to you

[@uprednecked]

ok thanks i like to buy local since i know the guys and have an account then but i do also have an account on summit and will check there! thanks man!

[@sethclark9897]

Allot of diesels still run flat tappet lifters. Is diesel oil a possible substitute in a mild motor with low spring pressures?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

I don't recommend it Diesel oil additives are for low RPM extreme pressure situations not really the best choice for a higher revving gas engine

[@MidnightMechanic]

Would it be cheaper to buy a replacement hydraulic roller cam for a motor already set up stock for rollers, or retrofit a hydraulic roller setup in place of a flat tappet in an older motor? Just considering the base price of a cam, not including lifters and pushrods, etc.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Yes defiantly I almost always go roller in that situation if it's a factory roller it's much cheaper to upgrade the cam to a performance roller

[@MidnightMechanic]

Yep, figured as much, and knowing you you've probably run into some idiots in your time that replace the cam in their motors but don't ever replace the cam bearings with it. One of the cheapest and easiest things to do, and is so overlooked, and WILL ruin a brand new cam if the bearings aren't replaced, possibly much faster than not having ZDDP formula. I plan to swap out my cam for a stock hydraulic roller LB9 unit anyway since the lift isn't extreme enough to interfere with stock unmodified Vortec heads, however where can I find one new from GM or any reputable cam manufacturer? Jeg's and Summit Racing obviously aren't going to advertise anything lower than .4" lift, so where should I start looking?

[@MrLostonej]

what are your thoughts on turbo max zddp?

[@cupofcoffeeinthebigtimeyea3485]

anyone use comp cams break-in oil ?

[@cmccarter2009]

I just got my 350 bored .040 over rebuilt completely. Its on the ground fully assembled and rdy for break in, i fired it up and ran it for about 10mins but had to shut it down because the reservoir was leaking. Im running a 95 serp setup on an 87-95 block with vortec 906 heads. It had a 195 tstat but i left it out during the break in... is 195 too hi for it amd will the reverse flow water pump cause any problems due to it flowing water backwards?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Wait WHAT??? you are running a what water pump??

[@cmccarter2009]

Myvintageiron7512 serpentine pumps spin backwards.. will it cause overheating issues?

[@WeirdGuyInPark]

if you have duel valve springs is it nessessary to remove the inner spring during breaking?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Tes in most cases

[@Shane-Singleton]

Also just as a random question was this one of the later large journal 327's?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

yes 1969

[@cw6371]

i just broke-in the cam on my BBC with Driven BR40, and 2 of the lifters on the front of the cam weren't spinning. i cleaned out the lifter bores and put them back in at a different angle with more graphite lube. Should i be worried?

[@warrenzevonsangryghost6055]

Break-in oil too thick (IMHO)...I use Gibbs BR30 (the 5W-30 break-in oil). Need to get that oil circulated fast and up to a temp where it can do its job...the 10W-40 will take a bit longer to get to a temp where it's actually protecting the engine, and will have a hard time filling the lifters (assuming hydraulics) compared to the 5W-30. If Gibbs made a 0W-30, I'd be using that instead. Lifters MUST spin. If not, need to pop the intake back off and hone the lifter bores. Honestly, if I was rebuilding a motor where roller lifters were available, I'd happily spend the money just to take a load of my mind about cam break-in. I work on a bunch of old motors where all I can get are flat tappets. Bah...

[@Singtothetrees]

The cam break in process seems pretty straight forward once I get a tach or timing light. My worry is keeping it in the right rpm and burping the coolant system simultaneously. Any advice guys?

[@jeffs9003]

If u drill a little 16th inch hole in ur thermostat it wont air lock

[@davidhale8573]

How about a video about piston rings and ring seating? I've got a HR engine, so no concern there. A video on HR lifters would be great too, seems to be alot of cheap china ones out there now...

[@jimclarke1108]

Im always learning something from watching your videos

[@Myvintageiron7512]

THX

[@danielscriver9726]

I still recommend reading most of the blog, it will make you think. I use Z Rod Amsoil - high zddp stuff, so i agree with you. 540 Rat has pretty sound science. David Vizard really likes Oil Extreme Oil, and this oil does well on the testing. A lot of other oils, some you recommend don't do that great (neither do some I thought were among the best). SIDE QUESTION - Who builds a good around 15k 540/548/555 bbc? I have a 66 SS Chevelle with 4.11s, Tremec 5 spd. THANKS AGAIN! GOOD TO SEE YOU BACK AT IT!

[@Myvintageiron7512]

I am doing a 502 for my own personal use and I am using Mobil 1 full synthetic but I am setting up the clearances for it and of course its a roller cam

[@danielscriver9726]

Can't wait to see video on 502 (be great to see you do it 540/555), and discussion on synthetic oil clearances.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

You know I did consider a 540 but I have a good forged 502 crank and dimple rods I also scored a brand new set of 502 forged pistons for $50.00 I just could not turn that down I bought the engine for $150 the guy thought it was a 454 and wanted it out of his way imagine my delight when I got it home and realized it was a 502 so the way I got it figured I will have about $700.00 Plus my labor into this 502 I already have a set of 781 heads done up with big valves and some porting the biggest ticket item will be the roller cam kit I have a 305 in my 77 square body truck I just threw it in to get me by but that will be the 502's home eventually

[@danielscriver9726]

That's awesome. I don't know if you'd want to build my 540... it won't be for a little while, my bbc still runs good, just starting my research. If you were interested please let me know. Otherwise if you do mind recommending some builders, I'd appreciate it - there is so much conflicting info online and with folks in person. You know what the hell you are doing and I'd very much value your opinion. Right now I'm considering Shafiroff, Reher Morrison, Blueprint, Skip White, - they are all within a few grand when you put together all the upgrades.

[@brocluno01]

EPA requirements did not effect off road equipment oils, aero and marine oils. Chevron Delo 15W-30 SD (severe duty) oil is excellent for flat tappet. Mercury Marine 25W-40 marine oil is another excellent oil for flat tappets. Lots of existing marine engines are flat tappet. Need more than 1,200 PPM ZDDP and 1,600 PPM is not a bad number to shoot for. Some Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oils (HDEO) have good chemistry for flat tappets. These V block flat tappets are only oiled on the lobes by sling oil off the crank. That is why you need the RPM to sling enough oil to keep the cam really wet during break-in.

[@bluef2501989]

is rotella a good oil for break in?? I've always seen and heard it was just want to b sure before I go to breaking a cam in

[@Myvintageiron7512]

No it used to be but the new standards for Diesels cuused a reduction in zinc in Rotella as well

[@bluef2501989]

Ok thank you

[@boutcha1]

I have cases of late 90s Rotella. I used to own a few road tractors. But Rotella swears their T formula has not changed.

[@ramonhernandez9292]

What’s your thoughts on priming the camshaft lifters before placing them in?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

the lifter manufacturers say it's not nessassary

[@Darren87aero]

I have a stock 454 TBI motor in my 91 dually with a flat tappet cam, Am I just lucky that the cam is still in good shape?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

In 91 there was plenty of zinc in the oil it ran for many years with high zinc oil the zinc embeds itself into the cam lobe to protect it if you were to put in a new cam and lifters on modern oil kiss it goodbye

[@Darren87aero]

Ok, thanks, I was under the impression my cam was slowly being eaten away.

[@aarontsosie9807]

Do a video on how to use that timing light

[@Myvintageiron7512]

OK I'll do it

[@Woodman_Custom_Sawing]

Myvintageiron7512, I have the same light and love mine. Maybe you can make a clip on how to re-curving a distributor to show off your timing light. I used mine to curve a Street Fire distributor, couldn't of done it without it. Maybe touch on vacuum timing advance and using manifold vs carb for the vac source. Thanks for all your great input.

[@Shane-Singleton]

I'd like to see this as well. Thanks! Maybe also a small tidbit about vacuum advance, etc.

[@jovannigonzalez4020]

What are your sources for what you are saying about that they removed the additives from the oil?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/03/zddp-when-where-what-why-how/

[@gpagentry]

So, all non-roller lifters, solid and hydraulic, are considered flat tappet?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Yes

[@sandylake304]

Why do you have to continue using the high zinc oil AFTER the break in?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

because the lobes will go flat if you don't

[@joelbraatz9089]

Is fully-synthetic motor oil okay to use with a flat tappet cam?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Yes

[@joelbraatz9089]

Thanks for your reply. My car is a 1969 Chevelle SS with an L78 396 with solid lifter cam. The motor has roughly 4,000 miles on it. I use Mobil 1 10w-30 motor oil. I don't believe that oil has the high levels of zinc that you mention? Should I continue using that oil or make a switch to one of the other brands that you mention? Thanks for making all of these videos. The vast amounts of knowledge that you share is priceless.

[@thomaspadilla8677]

@@joelbraatz9089 o

[@OHIOMANUSMC]

What weight llucas ? 10-30. 10-40. 20-50. 15-40. Etc ????

[@shitbox7413]

Brad Penn makes a really good break in oil as well.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

Agreed Brad Peen oil works well for this

[@dennislorden3142]

What are the specs on that cam? Sounds good

[@Myvintageiron7512]

speed pro cam .480 lift 234 Dur @ .050

[@knight0334]

Altogether another reason to go with a roller cam these days. I cant even find the proper oil in my area for a flat tappet builds.

[@Myvintageiron7512]

I always like to go roller when I can the issue I run into quite a bit is guys are on a budget and they can't afford it the retro fit roller cam kits are quite expensive

[@Roadglide911]

Anything special need to be done for a HR camshaft?

[@FirstOnRaceDayCapri2904]

Hydraulic roller? Not really.

[@FigureEightMafia]

what brand or modle. is your timing light id like to order one?

[@Myvintageiron7512]

snapon

[@rokguitarstar]

awesome!