35mm Film Photography. Ilford Ortho 80 and Filters. Orange Filter?

[@metocvideo]

Way back when ortho film was just called “film”, (there wasn’t any other kind), the photographers of the day used blue or green filters when shooting landscapes, to stop trees and grass from being too dark. A lot of those fabulous movie star portraits of the ‘20’s and ‘30’s were shot on ortho, with soft diffusion filters a lot of the time, because the film was too unforgiving of skin unevenness, and showed up freckles like no tomorrow. It was really good at photographing men, if you look at the movie star shots you often see the men with tanned skin and darker than normal lips, that was the ortho film doing it’s thing.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Yes I've read a lot about movie making back before pan film. Interesting isn't it

[@RickMahoney2013]

So it will bring out the freckles, my niece has a ton of freckles and I would like to bring them out more.

[@Kristophersmithphotography]

Just finding your channel now...GREAT stuff. Thx for sharing your process. I'm growing more confident with the film process from A-Z from your videos. I can't thank you enough!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@petervanorsouw2858]

You are totally correct about reading as much as you like, but it's when you put it all into practice that you really learn your craft. Thank you for your great program 👍

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Yes! Thank you!

[@deanc6515]

Always interesting to see what filters will do. Great job again Roger. Thanks for sharing.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks for watching Dean

[@parratt-world]

This was really good to see. Thanks Roger.

[@KevinJantunen]

Incredible video, very informative. I very much enjoyed your print process, it's always good to see the process in it's entirety. Perhaps the most enjoyable videos on photography I've watched. I got myself a roll of Ortho to shoot landscape and studio portraits and wanted to try out green and or blue filters in both scenarios for exaggerated creative effects. Now I may try yellow as well! This video encouraged and inspired me very much! Thank you, sir.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Cheers Kevin. Good luck with it

[@ThatGamingGuyfromthe70s]

Be at one with your environment, wellies not needed. Great prints, those tones came across really nice. I have never used Ortho film, I will definitely try a few rolls next. Really good advice about getting out there and trying things for yourself.

[@theoldfilmbloke]

I see you getting Sea water ( SALTY ! ) into your Tripod legs -- do you find it goes Rusty ? do you wash it off in fresh water when you get home/

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I do hose the salt off Pete but these tripods legs are rusty now.

[@klofisch]

the old man and the sea :D.

[@parratt-world]

I'm a lot older! 😜

[@NandR]

I just tried out red filters for the first time. On Ilford XP2 Super. Blue skies behind desert scenes.

[@jimgraves4197]

I was given 20 rolls of expired Ilford film late last year, 10 FP4 and 10 HP5 that gave me a good education as I learned to develop film this year. I used to be reluctant to develop film but now there's no stopping me and it was all thanks to that kind gift from my sis.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Nice Jim. Result.

[@jessearmstrong8067]

Hi, Curious to know if using a ND filter or blue filter would produce good contrast?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

ND Filter I use to cut the light down entering the camera. If I want a slower speed in the camera. Blue Filter would have lightened this scene. I don't have a blue but I believe it darkens reds, oranges and greens, lightens blues, purples.

[@filmlovephotography]

Hello Roger, another great info video. I believe if you give more 3 stops on the orange filter you get better results. For example when I use a red filter with hp5, the filter say to give more 3 stops but I get better results with 4 stops more. Maybe hp5 it's a bit less sensitive to red. Thank you for your experiment and all the info. Cheers 👍

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Great tip Peds. That's interesting. I've always done 3 with red and 2 orange. I'll have to try that mate.

[@filmlovephotography]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hello Roger. For what I understand the stops in the filters are just guidelines by the manufacturer, but depending on the spectral sensitivity of the film we need to adjust more or less, for example a film very sensitive to blue with a blue filter that saying by the manufacturer "more 2 stops" maybe for that film you don't need to compensate at all. Or a film less sensitive to red with a red filter you need to give a lot of exposure more, maybe 20 stops. But the best way is to try, and see what are the best results. Cheers Roger

[@musical_historian]

Pure Poetry!

[@aaron1414]

Love the work 🎉

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thank you 🙌

[@arty2917]

It’s a crime that you don’t have at least 100,000 subscribers,

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I wouldn't be able to answer all the comments though lol

[@MichaelPhillipsatGreyOwlStudio]

Yeah, there's a reason why they sometimes called deep yellow or orange filters "minus blue". It blocks out almost all blue light, and ortho film is mostly sensitive only to blue light, so you get essentially nothing.

[@podhoncisty]

Beautiful prints 👍 Interesting experiment 🙂

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@oscargarcia8204]

The ilford ortho 80 is one of my favourite films, and i was wondering how would affect to add filters. It gives such an amazing contrast, im willing to try it 🤩

[@tweed0929]

You've got great results!

[@andyu1259]

thank you for you videos ... a question for the audience, does anybody know what happens (i.e. if it is possible) to reuse mixed adox neutol eco paper developer (e.g. 1:9) some weeks later by adding new developer ... I mean in the end its mostly water anyway ... idea is to reduce the amount of developer which needs to be specially treated for disposal (special place to bring to, to protect the environment) ... alternative is to let the water evaporate but this takes quite some time ...its not about saving money

[@donyee8970]

Thanks for sharing. I've learned quite a bit. The closest thing I shot to ortho film is x-ray film.

[@IainHC1]

Nice to see Pete's clock working :-)...... Cracking prints bud. Next stop eBay :-D

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I usually turn that off for continuity LOL.

[@theoldfilmbloke]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hey -- you TURN OFF My Clock ?

[@acmdv]

Have you tried shooting B&W reversal film (E.G. Fomapan R)? Also have you tried shooting with a HOLGA 120WPC (medium format wide angle pinhole camera)?

[@grahamtownsend3751]

You don't need to use a specific reversal film for monochrome slides, any slowish speed b/w film will do, all it needs is a second exposure and re development, I did it years ago with agfapan 25.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I have not no, I believe that needs e6 chemicals?

[@acmdv]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I think so yes, but have you tried the HOLGA 120WPC pinhole camera? You can shoot 6x12 negatives on it.

[@mikk4373]

this was neat. thanks for that

[@amosk24]

Good stuff, thanks for sharing!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks for watching!

[@espenbjrkvold5119]

Interesting. Thank you for informing me. I’ve had the same experience with Xtol lately, and I thought I had made a mistake while mixing it. An alternative could be Foma Excel, but that’s only available in 1L packages. Thank you for another great video.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

First for me Espen I thought I'd done something wrong. Then months later same again. Then I researched. I'll wait for a while to use it again.

[@JonnyRobbie]

I would really love to see the orange filter properly compensated against. It clearly wasn't totally blank like a red one would do. Dismissing it as unusable seems like a bit of a letdown and it might make interesting effect.

[@ThatGamingGuyfromthe70s]

There is no better way to learn than to get out there and try for yourself.

[@JonnyRobbie]

@@ThatGamingGuyfromthe70s That's not a good argument as your claim would invalidate basically all of Roger's experiments. After all, you can do them yourselves, right?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I knew I'd get something from the Orange but wasn't sure if it would be a printable something. Interesting stuff.

[@JonnyRobbie]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I understand that what you got right now is barely printable (though it would be interested to see that compensated on enlarger too - there are so many interesting variables). What I meant is simple longer exposure in camera. You did give it some time - that is true, but it clearly wanted more.

[@ThatGamingGuyfromthe70s]

@@JonnyRobbie I take the basic principles of videos like Roger's and apply those learnings with my own experiments and experiences to grow as a photographer. Watching these videos is a great source of inspiration which can spur me on creatively. I practice many different disciplines in photography and I'm always learning. If I want to know how something works for me I will watch a video and then build upon on it to fulfill my curiosity. Sometimes experimenting for yourself can provide a greater insight than purely watching a video. This does not invalidate what Roger does, in many cases it is the catalyst for my creativity.

[@flavioserci6046]

Hello... Ortho film can see the orange color? It is not so ortho... I think.

[@Nick_r]

Give Bellini Hydrofen a go, it’s one shot like Rodinal but fine grain and keeps a long time. I’ve switched from HC110 to Hydrofen and love it.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks for the tip Nick

[@Uwe_Ludolf]

If you prefer to use "X-tol" you could Fomadon Excel, Foma's version of X-tol.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks Uwe. Never heard of that one

[@Uwe_Ludolf]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss you're welcome. I don't know if there are UK shops that sell it, else, get some while you are in the EU 😉

[@lensman5762]

Xtol's main active agent is Ascorbic acid. It has none of the keeping qualities of developers based on Hydroquinone. There is also the added problem of air getting through the seal and degrading the powder. Kodak discontinued the 1 litre packs years ago for the same reason. Fomadon Excel is an alternative to Xtol . I have two packs of them but have not tried them yet. Some good results there with the light yellow filter.

[@SilntObsvr]

I must disagree with keeping quality of Xtol. I mixed a five liter package (expired since 2002, I might add) in June 2020, and I've been using it replenished (at stock strength, obviously). I've used more than a liter of replenisher, around twenty rolls of film, and there hasn't been the slightest change in my results over that much time. I know of others who have run replenished Xtol, bag after bag, literally for years -- and the stock solution keeps in full bottles for just as long as D-76 stock (which has the hydroquinone you prefer). For me, for film, it's Xtol, or Parodinal (homebrew Rodinal), or Caffenol. No hydroquinone at all (though I do use Dektol, which has it, for paper). And no floaty bits in my Xtol, either -- but it's from before the recent issue, back when "sudden Xtol death" was the big fear.

[@lensman5762]

@@SilntObsvr I have used Xtol extensively in the past as the developer of choice and I too didn't have any problem with it although, I always used the 5 liter pack and not the 1 liter where Kodak had a lot of problems with. I would use the solution within 6 weeks though. I have never used replenisher so no comment there. At the moment I am thinking of going back to HC110 as it is highly stable, economical and flexible and I keep a few packs of Atomal too as compensating developer.

[@SilntObsvr]

@@lensman5762 At present, unless you have a stash of the old, I'd be less confident of the keeping properties of the new HC-110. Something has been changed in the formula, it's no longer a water-free syrup like the old (which keeps virtually forever as concentrate). It might still keep a long time, but we just won't know for a long time. There's no evidence I'm aware of that the developing characteristics have changed -- but the concentrate certainly isn't the same as the old bottle I still have.

[@lensman5762]

@@SilntObsvr As I recall the US bottled versions were different from the ones available for Euro market. The US version was so syrupy it resembled molasses . The EU version also had different dilution rates. Both looked the same yellow but the EU one was less of a concentrate. Ilford HC or LC29 are other alternatives. I still have a bit of 510 Pyro left somewhere which I believe, outlasts any other developer.

[@eddybax1]

I just bought some Muckmaster wellies, you should really check them out they are awesome!

[@lensman5762]

I have pair for when I used to go shooting . Covid put an end to that. They are great if a little pricey.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

They shoot game birds, duck, pheasant, partridge, geese, across our field which you can see in the last Wednesday wonder. All have wellies on and farmer looking clothes. If they ever invite me 'd still wear my trainers ha ha.

[@lensman5762]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss LOL, the only thing I shoot is the odd cheeky squirrel and cock pheasants if need be an dte rest are just metal targets. I'd rather use the camera anytime.

[@josephasghar]

I can beat your story. An entire darkroom for fifty notes. The paper alone can to about thirty boxes. It was like winning the lottery.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

ha ha excellent.

[@JohnTomasella]

Did one of those times have a dot next to it? Just check my massive dev, the only difference I see is one is daylight and one is tungsten.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

I didn't check that at the time John. I know to shoot at 40 under tungsten lights for portraits because of the orange glow. And I just checked. You're right. 40 was for tungsten DOH!

[@m00dawg]

I got burned by the bad batch too. Fortunately I caught it before I mixed it in with my XTOL Replenishment. I use XTOL-R for various reasons, but in part since it's a little more resilient against the instant-fall-off you can get when mixing XTOL one-shot. I've heard the new Kodak XTOL may also be giving a different contrast index than the old stuff, which is a bit problematic for me given I kinda need my XTOL-R consistent so I can rely on my tested dev times. A bit frustrating for sure, but XTOL is still my fav! Adox may be releasing their own variant which is based more on the older stuff. Curious to see how that plays out, as well as Kodak's own stuff once they sort out their new supplier. I'm told, don't quote me on this, that it's the same supplier of their RA4 chemicals, which are known to be quite fantastic. That makes me think the consistency should be there once they shake out the gremlins.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

yes I was just left not trusting the stuff. I Weill go back to it after a while.

[@carstennorwaynorge2195]

The first like is from norway 😉

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hello Norway!

[@garethdawes4022]

“Slightly shite” - love it!

[@freeman10000]

I came here interested in using a yellow filter with Ortho 80 but heard a lot about other stuff such as pulling film, darkroom burning and doging etc... Sorry dude I don't mean to be a prick but the video was filled with tangental stuff that had little to do with the topic I came here for and, to be honest, I didn't really get the information I was seeking. Just giving some constructive criticism.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Hope you found what you were looking for fella

[@hoorayforpentax3801]

MY lesson for the day: Do not use an orange filter with orthochromatic film!

[@lensman5762]

Oh you could, but it needs about 4 stops of extra exposure and then you'd only get what was illuminated by the residual Yellow light. Ortho 80 does respond to yellow light quite well but the cut off is in the Yellow/Orange region of the spectrum.

[@RobMoses]

Definitely kill'n it like a boss mang.