360 LIVE: 3D Printed Threads

[@MihaiAndreiStanimir]

I often chamfer screw threads. However, it's a bit tricky to do because threading and then adding a chamfer doesn't usually work. Here's how I do it: - create surface to thread - chamfer the end as needed - create thread - at this point the chamfer prevents the thread from reaching the end of the piece and it won't screw in. To fix it: - in the design history drag the chamfer to the right of the thread. I hope this helps. Also, Brad is awesome.

[@hamiltonpianos]

Excellent tip; thanks! :)

[@adskFusion]

Whoaaaaaa....I sense another "stuff we learned from you" addition right there! Thanks much!

[@chrisleech1565]

Astonishing :) I had no idea you could edit history!

[@hamiltonpianos]

Chris Leech yes; you can properly mess things up too...!😬

[@GreyBeard3D]

Best Fusion360 video from Autodesk. So many videos focus on CAM and ignore the 3D printing considerations.

[@adskFusion]

We swing both ways...subtractive, additive..oh, and hybrid!

[@qivarebil2149]

Put a 3 mm or 1/16 screw in the center of the printed one, to strengthen it. Drill a tap size hole first - heat the screw, and just screw it in.

[@chrisleech1565]

Love it when you casually employ something I hadn't conceived of yet. Editing from within the cross sectional analysis? Jaw dropped! Warming up the print bed .....

[@adskFusion]

Thanks Chris! Brad is fantastic!

[@darranedmundson1505]

Awesome livestream. Things I learned: thread command; coil command; sweeping with an additional guide surface; some useful 3D printing thread techniques. Oh, and I watch these at 1.5 speed to save a bit of time. If I ever run into Brad in real life (Portland in August?), I'll probably assume he has a slower twin brother ;-)

[@adskFusion]

Hope to see you in Portland! Thanks for sharing what you learned!

[@marcotronic]

Great one again! I wish Fusion360 let me actually define the strength/level of the tolerance. Would be awesome to have the option :)

[@WPGinfo]

Hi Brad, Great tips; esp. adding threaded inserts using a soldering iron I think is so handy. The other solution I really liked is the flattening of the bolt, so it will print flat on the printbed and is much stronger than the upright version. Thanks!

[@adskFusion]

Thanks for watching! Spread the good word!

[@rbsox0]

Very cool... it always amazes me how versatile F360 is in the right hands. Great video and learning experience!

[@adskFusion]

Thanks!

[@JoesAutoElectric]

I am missing something. at around 19:25 you are showing how to clearance the threads if they are too tight. I am making a custom part, and I do not have the option for analysis on the left side of the screen in fusion. I was able to go into the inspect menu and choose analyze, but I was unable to select the part of the thread as you did. Any advice?

[@yavalang]

I often 3D-printed nuts and bolts the wrong way, now I changed the print orientation and it's so robust now. And the layer height isn't as critical as before. Thank you for this very useful tip!

[@michaelhuffman4382]

Thank so much Brad for ALL of your info! I have learned a great deal from your tutorials!!

[@bobstewart3746]

I really enjoy your presentations. Thank you.

[@lettynox_]

I love the video! This is how the learning videos should look like!

[@adskFusion]

Thank you!

[@rckeith]

Great video Brad, good tip on the inserts for a RC firewall definitely be using that one.👍

[@adskFusion]

Glad that could help, Keith!

[@vurlbland3150]

Enjoyed the video(s). Very informative. I have been trying to make the following threads with the thread tool in F360: 1) 1.375 x 36 2) 1.125 x 36 3) 1.25 x 36 The tool only goes to 28/inch. I have found the xml file in the hidden folder and have added in the data to a copy of the xml from a thread calculator. Another choice appears in the pulldown options for thread types, but it still only goes to 28/inch. Any suggestions? Is there a more complete xml file available?

[@44mod]

Thanks again Brad another great video. You have a God giver gift of teaching! Please keep the videos going.

[@adskFusion]

Thank you for the amazing compliment! Brad (and the channel as a whole) appreciate it. We'll keep Brads livestreams going as long as we get reactions like this!

[@MacAdder1965]

Great vid, explains a lot. Just wish you guys would move over to the metric system.

[@stephanh1083]

Hello Brad, really like and learned a lot by seeing your Live Videos. I made one of those flat screws. Very nice ;-) Now I made another one with only one side flat :-) In works too. Thanks for lots of tips.

[@adskFusion]

You're fast!!

[@YeekyYeeky]

this is really cool , thank you very much

[@rustyrushfeldt7732]

The class of fit for the bolt & the nut could also adjust the tolerances. I see that there are class choices in the thread settings to make changes. Change the 1,2,3A (bolt) & the 1,2,3B (nut) combinations to see what happens.

[@adskFusion]

Good call! Thanks Rusty!

[@amitfernandes4367]

Awesome video! Even w the loose nut behind the monitor..

[@adskFusion]

Thanks Amit!

[@alexandermcalpine]

Great post thanks! Can you show how to create pitch-degrading threads?

[@A-n-t-o-n-y]

Great video, thank you! But is there a way to disable default clearance between 2 parts? When you rendering an image for presentation it isn't correct showing that clearance

[@marktragesser9906]

Please help!! I can’t figure out what is happening to me. I am trying this same thing essentially. I am making a little jar. I make a new component. Pull up cylinder and make a cylinder that is 1in dia. And .80 tall. I Use the thread command on the outside of cylinder it selects. ANSI uni screw thread 1-8unc. I click modeled, deselect full length and I make the thread portion .30 and good to go. Now I make a new component for the lid start a sketch on the top of the threads draw a circle at 1.25 dia. And another at 1 in. I extrude that ring down .30 ( the length of thread I put on the jar). Then select thread command and select inside of lid (1in dia section) it selects the same thread as it did for the jar portion. Click modeled and ok. When I do a section analysis the threads are not matched up?? If I do the exact same thing except make the jar 1in tall instead of .80 it works and the threads line up in the section analysis. Thread portion on jar is still .30 and lid is still .30???? I don’t understand.

[@BarryBernau]

Very helpful

[@stephenbrenton888]

I tried this with a M30 x 2.00 thread. Parts would not thread together. Interference.

[@AuroraCypher]

Thank you so much for this ! new sub from me sir. I was having a hard time making 3d printed threads from Fusion360, it just wouldnt fit no matter what I do. Wasnt sure if it was my 3D printer not printing the proper diameter or something else, but when I printed threads made by other people via Fusion 360, it seems to fit fine. Your tutorial shows me a few tricks to make the threads smaller to fit the male nut much better.

[@adskFusion]

We love hearing this, and are thrilled to have another subscriber! We hope to bring more great content...and join us for the livestream Thursday at 11PST where Brad will be showing off his latest 3d print and take you through the process. Cheers!

[@pooheadlou]

Best Brad ever!!

[@adskFusion]

Thanks!!!

[@om3981]

Why noone talks about the actual machining and how this software deals, connects, etc to CNC ROUTERS I Like it but I have no answers on this, posting in forums , KZbin and leave at least 10 message in the Autodesk forums

[@petermenningen338]

That is done in the manufacture space. when you select machine do default 3 axis machine. when you go to post process select the machine type from the dropdowns or which machine controller you are using, I.E. Mach3, Multicam, Hass, etc.. This is where the G code is created and specialized for your machine. I hope this helps Not an expert just a user

[@TheMikolasZuza]

I wonder if there is a good way of aligning parts with threads. Let's say I have a mark on a cylinder with a thread and I would like this mark to lineup with another mark on the other model with a thread. I always do cross-section analysis and try to line them up, but it's a lot of trial an error and printing to get it right.

[@adskFusion]

Trial and error with motion links? I don't know, just guessing. Great question!

[@jutto64]

Thanks Brad, really useful :)

[@adskFusion]

Great to see you out again, Justin!

[@jutto64]

👍

[@oldiron1400]

I know that this video is kind of out of place and way out of time with the question I have but is the closest one I could find to my issue. The issue is that I am trying to mode a thread that is a weird size. It is a thread that is the same size as a 1"-8NC size but is on a 1/2" wood dowel. That makes is a 1/2"-8NC thread. I tried downloading the custom thread plug-in but it is only for metric size. The only place I could find for a 1/"-8 thread geometry is a ACME thread that is square and that does not help me. The size I am looking for is a standard size on a wood thread (used in woodworking). How do I go about modeling that. Hope you can help me. John

[@adskFusion]

@Old Iron- You can create custom threads by drawing a profile and "sweeping" it around a coil profile that is the correct diameter and pitch. Another thing you might try is to see if McMaster-Carr has a threaded rod the correct size you need in their catalog that you can import into your design.

[@oldiron1400]

@@adskFusion Thanks for the response. I did do that (draw from scratch and sweep). McMaster has nothing with regular thread. Only with ACME thread. I was just looking for a quick fix. Thanks.

[@alejandroperez5368]

If we're making a cylindrical container with an interior thread in order to screw the lid, how can we control (measure) the cylinder opening's exact diameter after adding the thread? You can set different thread sizes but changing the designation also changes the opening's diameter...I hope this is covered in the future.

[@adskFusion]

Great suggestion!

[@robertzawasky545]

Anyone know know a good NC EDITing software for MAC?

[@andreas9395]

Super Video . . .

[@bradtallis8968]

Thank you!

[@shayarsalim7006]

Is it possible to avoid supports when you print a thread vertically (weak part). I get supports for the overhanging threads. support angle is 45 degrees.

[@adskFusion]

Where are you doing your print prep/programming?

[@shayarsalim7006]

@@adskFusion I use an FDM printer (zortrax m200+). The material is abs. The threads have supports as overhangs.

[@Dwarfgrinder]

The left handed thread modeling doesnt work as well.

[@johnbickford9221]

I would enjoy a video about how to match threads on existing bottles or jars for use in upcycling.

[@adskFusion]

Great idea!

[@lesferguson7020]

@@adskFusion A lot of the standard threads are defined by manufacturers, it can be hard finding just the right search term to get to them, but this site helped me match 3D printed models to some of the bottles used in NZ catalog.berryglobal.com/products/closure

[@bradtallis8968]

@John- I actually started looking into that, but man, the complexity of those threads were above my head! Check out the drawing! www.imajeenyus.com/mechanical/20120508_bottle_top_threads/pco1810.pdf

[@asdwee4444]

very helpfull , thanks

[@adskFusion]

Thanks for watching!

[@boboscurse4130]

I just can't get threads that mate. I've reduced the threads on the rod to get more clearance and they still won't screw together.

[@adskFusion]

Do you mean the printed versions? Or in software?

[@boboscurse4130]

@@adskFusion When I print them.

[@gonzalomorenoandonaegui2052]

How can I model a tapered angle thread ?

[@BrianBoniMakes]

3D printing is against McMaster-Carr rules. "You shall not use a CAD model to engage in 3D printing or other fabrication of the object depicted in the CAD model for any other purpose."

[@adskFusion]

Whoa...we obviously were not aware of this. Going to consider pulling this down as we don't want to steer people in ways that act against agreements.

[@adskFusion]

Thank you for bringing this to our attention

[@BrianBoniMakes]

@@adskFusion You can turn this into a positive. You're right in that F360 threads are better than MC models, they work first time for me and I've done a lot of threads. When I started I tried MC models and they are really just for dimensional analysis and not functional models, if you are printing MC models and you know how to use F360 you're wasting your time.

[@adskFusion]

After review of how Brad used the MC parts, and what he showed, we've decided to keep it up with the disclaimer so that folks are aware of this. Many thanks for bringing this to our attention!

[@ronkramer3476]

WOW you're my hero. I am a astrophotographer. And I often need adapters and spacers and extension tubes for my camera train and I want to make my own since I often can not find anyone that makes what I need. So I bought a 3D printer and now the nightmare... "HOW TO MAKE A BASIC EXTENSION TUBE". Often 42mm or 48mm female and male thread ends. In 0.75 ? thread res? (I have no idea how this works) I noticed you have a TELESCOPE behind you. Have you made parts? Can you make a lesson on how to make extension tubes or adapters for the scope!? I loved learning about the INSERT MCmaster carr (I loaded some designs) awesome. But I really want to make scope parts.

[@adskFusion]

I think you might just be Brads new hero. I'll make sure he see's this! We'd love to see some of your astrophotography!

[@ronkramer3476]

You can find some here. www.flickr.com/photos/158199519@N08/?

[@2.5km]

Good tip!!! Thanks a lot!!

[@adskFusion]

Thanks for watching, Daniel!

[@SimopsAus]

Hi Brad....great tutorial. Can you advise please a link where to get the inserts from or at least a pert name and number??? Cheers

[@adskFusion]

After realizing this is against the McMaster agreement, we will likely not be doing this. Sorry.

[@bradtallis8968]

@SimopsAus- I got the threaded inserts from my local Hardware Store. Or you can do a search for "Threaded Inserts" on any of the online stores.

[@adskFusion]

Thanks for the clarification, Brad!

[@SimopsAus]

Brad Tallis thanks Brad......here in Aus the threaded inserts that I can search are eirhervthe woodworking type or rivnuts for metal work......where your inserts the woodworking type or specifically for 3D printed plastic?

[@dikar9623]

Спасибо большое! Очень полезное видео!!!

[@adskFusion]

Спасибо за просмотр!

[@Fubar12341]

Hi Brad, can you enlighten me as to how you draw up a tapered thread such as 1/4 bspt or npt ? Really enjoy your tutorials.

[@adskFusion]

Brad, where you at?

[@adskFusion]

He should see this soon, if not I'll get on his case for you! haha

[@Fubar12341]

@@adskFusion Thank you, from another Aeromodeller. The tip about printing threads horizontal with two flats works well ! thanks

[@bradtallis8968]

@Chris- Right now we do not have a way to create automatic modeled "tapered" threads. We can create a representation of them for drawings, but not physically modeled. Hope to see that option soon!

[@Fubar12341]

@@@bradtallis8968 Thanks for trying. I look forward to when it is available .One day can you do a tutorial on how to cut up a model into printable sizes ?

[@bobstewart3746]

We can’t see it

[@FrankGraffagnino]

so, i'm confused. Fusion 360 automatically adds tolerance on the thread that are good for 3d printing? Is there any option or something to tell it to do this or does it always do this? What if you aren't 3d printing?

[@pooheadlou]

I would think that if you're not 3D printing you wouldn't need threads. I mean you would use the thread image rather than the actual threads, they would only slow down your computer anyway.

[@pooheadlou]

Oh and Brad is the best Brad ever.

[@mikecowan1471]

1/2 x 13 3b or 3a is a tolerance

[@MihaiAndreiStanimir]

I think all the options are for standardized threads. It would be awesome if we could customize them easily, but there's no such feature. I use the push/pull command to adjust the clearance or use the coil for a fully custom thread.