383 Stroker Rotating Assembly

This is (Episode 24) of the #ETCGDadsTruck Series.
Link to (Episode 25): • 383 Stroker Top End As...
Link to (Episode 23): • Machine Shop Summary #...
This installment of #ETCGDadsTruck covers the assembly of the rotating assembly of the engine, #DT383. The rotating assembly consists of the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, cam shaft, and timing chain.
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
My Patreon Account: / ericthecarguy
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecar...
Summit Racing: www.summitraci...
Thanks for watching!
Parts
Crankshaft: www.summitraci...
Rods: www.summitraci...
Pistons: www.summitraci...
Piston Rings: www.summitraci...
Rod Bearings: www.summitraci...
Main Bearings: www.summitraci...
Main Studs: www.summitraci...
Cam: www.compcams.com Custom Grind: 12-000-8
Timing Chain Set: www.compperform...
Cam Button: www.compperform...
Tools
Crankshaft Socket (SBC): www.summitraci...
Cam Installation Tool: www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Filer: www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Squaring Tool (4.000-4.230): www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Compressor (4.030)(Summit): www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Compressor (4.030)(Moroso): www.jegs.com/i...
Torque Wrench: www.jbtools.co...
Plastigauge: www.summitraci...
Paint Pen: www.amazon.com...
CAT Plug Kit: parts.cat.com/...
“Piston” Hammer: trustycook.com...
Gasket Tack: www.amazon.com...
WD40: www.amazon.com...
Related Videos
383 Stroker Engine Parts #ETCGDadsTruck: • 383 Stroker Engine Par...
Engine Assembly Crankshaft and Pistons #DarkMatterPikachu: • Engine Assembly Cranks...
How To Assemble Pistons and Rings: • How To Assemble Piston...
How To Gap Piston Rings: • How To Properly Gap Pi...
How To Mask and Paint an Engine Block: • How To Mask & Paint an...
How To Use Plastigauge: • How To Use Plastigage ...
#ETCGDadsTruck Playlist: • #ETCGDadsTruck Build I...
**Answers to your automotive questions found here: www.ericthecarg...
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ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.

[@Slugg-O]

A butt-load of time and effort went into making this video. THANK YOU! Glad I'm not the only one who enjoys watching a detailed engine build. I'm not even close to being a builder but I helped a friend of mine once who ran a machine shop and was OCD about cleanliness. We took a block from the hot tank to a power washer, then hit it with a brush, hose, soap bucket and back to the power washer again and again. We went back and forth like that probably 3-4 times before he was satisfied. No BS when I say it was clean enough to eat off of. If he stepped away during assembly to use the head, make a call or eat lunch, he would slip a lawn&leaf bag over it. And don't even think about touching the crank, rods, bearings or cylinder walls without wearing rubber gloves. He believed that oil and sweat from bare skin would lead to corrosion where contact was made. He was a fanatic and apparently a damn good builder.

[@mikelaos2077]

I was at a guy's house several years ago while he and a couple of his friends were assembling a new bottom end (BBC) for his street race car. During the assembly, a moth flew into the garage. They all basically panicked and frantically covered the engine with plastic until the moth was taken care of. I thought it was slightly overboard...lol

[@Exoticschill]

I am GIDDY for this. Love that it’s 55min, can’t wait to sit back and enjoy later tonight. Friday’s looking up!

[@gaylanhutcherson1501]

I thought your dad's truck was a SS 454 my bad

[@krajus83]

I'm not an engine builder. But 20 extra ft pounds on the rod caps alter your clearance numbers.

[@banno6938]

Exactly, but likely not enough to matter in this application .

[@Milner62]

I dont think it would be that big of a problem. If you take note of the ARP paper it says with their lube. Their lube reduces the force thus youd reach torque easier so they raise the torque value higher so once torqued at the higher setting it would be equal to if you torqued it to spec without the lube on the threads and washer heads.

[@ExtraFungus]

Honestly, this series is right up there at the top of stuff I watch in my subscription feed. I like that you did the assembly and you showed some of the minor issues from the machine shop. I'm familiar with what a 383 is, I've never seen details or the modifications needed to make it work. I don't think I'll ever have a sbc car again because LS engines are a thing, but if I was going to do one, I think I'd go this way.

[@talonvaughn6175]

A light car with a built 302/327sbc is a monster. Can be happy in the 7000rpm range for somewhat cheap, 283/302sbc can see 9000 rpm and be happy if it's built correctly, and not be as pricy as one might think.

[@ExtraFungus]

@@talonvaughn6175 the price goes up day by day and parts availability just goes down. Ls is the way to go.

[@Michael-fw5ef]

Eric, your videos are so good, I cant compliment you enough. Last night, I watched a video you made 4 years ago on change brake calipers and today I am watching this video - 1 week old - on assemblying your engine. Such a great channel.

[@tommyaleks100]

I love these kind of work Eric. Great work! As a car/ engine mechanic I would say he did a great job with it so far. The only thing I would do in this matter is that I would flushed it one more time before asembly, but`s that`s me. On other thing I will like to mention is that, you did correct to not wear glows on this job. I have seen it before and it`s not always smart to do. The clarence of the bearings are in specs so not to worry there. I have read some of the comments and I must say, they rely need to go to school or do lot`s of reading. Nothing wrong at all with this job, Eric is very carefully with what he does so no worries there ether. This engine will run smooth as a kitten. Keep it up Eric :)

[@NebukedNezzer]

if the cylinder bores have not been bored but just honed. check ring end clearance at the BOTTOM of the ring travel in case there is a slight taper in the cylinder they will fit tightest at the bottom. very good point you are making about the importance of getting enough ring end gap.

[@ExtraFungus]

It was bored over

[@NebukedNezzer]

@@ExtraFungus always a dumb ass who can not read but has to comment. my statement was for cylinder bores that were no bored. not these. doing the ring end check the correct way is a good habit to develop. you normally push them to the bottom of their travel with a piston. if one does the job that way it will always work correctly in any cylinder. thanks for nothing dumb ass.

[@mikespencer9913]

32:52 - "The bigger it is, the smaller the clearance. The smaller it is, the LESS(?) the clearance." ....Eric talks a lot and makes the occasional faux pas. In case it wasn't clear, crushing the little pasta stick makes it thinner and wider. It the gap is larger, it doesn't crush as much and results in a thicker and less-wide 'splat'. Awesome video, Eric. I agree with those who call this an hour of CAR PORN!

[@JSchrumm]

To be totally ocd about the ring install I would install the loose rings in the rear of the engine or furthest from the water pump.

[@alanw5812]

May be should put it in yhe middle ,so the compression balance better?

[@matermark]

you should always use a ring expander, it prevents getting any scratches on the piston. Also, I try to spread the gaps away from 6 and 12 o'clock--those areas have the most thrust on the piston to cylinder wall... i keep them closer to the pins.

[@buttercupstruelove340]

Glad to see that you measured ring gaps in their respective cylinder bores. In a precision engine build each piston is miked and each bore is honed to achieve the desired clearance.

[@jonthelamb4549]

I’ve learned more from this video than I have in school

[@unclemudfrogsgarage6590]

The comedian, Bill Burr, mentioned your channel when he was on Joe Rogan’s Podcast. He really liked watching you. Joe Rogan said he watched your channel, also. As a fellow Buckeye, I live in Springfield, it’s nice to get national exposure!

[@johnralston5818]

... Great video Eric !!... i especially liked the 'masking tape catch' of machine shop dirt @ the onset ( i'll bet that is the reason... including myself.. why we've been guilty of 'dirty engine' assembly & failure ; ) See ya on the next one, so stay safe & healthy... & Thanks Again.

[@rishishankarr3917]

Assembling an engine has never been this satisfying..

[@WickedProxy]

If the machine shop you used tells you it's "common" to find dirt in your engine after they're done with it then it's time to find a new machine shop!

[@blockbertus]

I also find it kinda concerning that there is (still) pitting on the top of the block at least one for the sides. I kinda feel bad for the machine shop but they messed up so many things on this block alone...

[@commodore665]

quite agree , should have done the job properly , or find someone else

[@tommyaleks100]

What he ment was, no matter how many times you clean it, there will always be something that slips into it again. it`s very common to clean it again after the machine shop. You my friend are a noob.

[@commodore665]

@@tommyaleks100 well aren't you a treat

[@scallywag1716]

@@tommyaleks100 why wouldn't the open ports / holes be covered after cleaning? That makes sense to me....

[@MrVostok11]

WD 40 is so expensive in Brazil that now I only use it as a perfume to go out with some girls.

[@aliabdallah102]

It's not even that good a lubricant.

[@nazigrammar9728]

@@aliabdallah102 but probably over there it's enough

[@RedBear345]

@@nazigrammar9728 Brazilian Girls have more blow-by

[@banno6938]

Try using diesel fuel with a little engine oil added to it for a spray-able lubricant

[@ck4181]

Now that's 2020, I use hand sanitizer.

[@dragman10]

Love the sound of an empty shop and building horsepower!!!

[@howifixit6206]

Thanks so much for this project! Your videos have helped my family fix so much more than we would have otherwise.

[@parrot69777]

Love the numbers and arrows on the pistons.

[@williegillie5712]

That’s the way to do it. Check all your tolerances before fully installing bearings rings and piston slap. I like to use motor oil to assemble most of it. Good oil flow is important to break in. It’s good to prime the system with oil also. Makes for a happy engine and less potential for spinning a bearing or damaging any moving part inside the engine. I like to change break in oil at close to 1,000 miles. Gets all the contaminants out. Makes for clean smooth running engine.

[@OlanHodges]

LOL, I love the Eminem reference on the rear main seal

[@MrBobrossftw]

Love seeing how far you've come! Remember you in a crappy little cinder block garage working on your yuck mobile

[@1227-b8d]

I love how quite it is in your shop. Just crank away

[@pthrelkeld090]

Round the outside, round tye outside😂😂😂 This is by far the best how you video ice ever seen ill he using it when i assemble my 383, thank you so much! Subscribing

[@LSswapGarage1]

Putting the cam in first makes installing it way easier and less risk of gouging a bearing. With the rotating assembly out you can reach right in the cam journal and guide it along from both ends.

[@alanw5812]

That why some people like fit the engine stand to the side.

[@LSswapGarage1]

@@alanw5812 engine stand placement makes zero difference.

[@alanw5812]

@@LSswapGarage1 I mean is put the camshaft up down, better than sideway.

[@LSswapGarage1]

@@alanw5812 still better with the crank out. Especially with cams a lot larger than the cam buddy used in this video.

[@alanw5812]

@@LSswapGarage1 ? Don't understand

[@ijj984]

Thank you for the amazing video.... my therapy!

[@robertrogish1038]

I used to run a CNC mill making port blocks - the rule was to ALWAYS blow it out. Great job !!!

[@yambo59]

Only small blocks up to 1958 had rope rear main seals, in '59 Chevy was the first GM engine to go to a 2 piece neoprene type seal - then the one piece design was introduced in '86.

[@littlephilo585]

Slow process to build a personal engine! Every detail that makes you sleep at night is accepted in the hobby! Hobby is what i call it as that is what it is for us perfectionists! In the end of every build its your dollar so spend it as you see fit! I enjoy final assembly of any project and am critisized by everyone around that i am way too anal about the small details! In the end most of my builds from 1000 Hp to 50 Hp pitbikes hold up and last through the punishment of those that critisized me! I get the most thrill knowing that the small details are what make build hold up !!!!!

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great video Eric

[@ronwatson4902]

Piss poor job of cleaning by the shop.Not impressed with that guy's professionalism. I enjoyed the fat chick ad though.Cracks me up!

[@SmittySmithsonite]

Now that's a beautiful thing right there! 😎 Tempted to junk the crap 5.3 in my '07 Silverado and install one of those. At least I know the 383 will do what it's supposed to reliably!

[@chrisj197438]

Smitty Smithsonite I catch a lot of hell from people because I’m not a fan of the LS series. I’m more of a SBC guy. 50 years of performance is proven.

[@SmittySmithsonite]

@@chrisj197438 - I hear that, brother. 🍻

[@fragman21]

clean, clean, and more clean!!!

[@angelgalvan7904]

Thank you 🙏 Sr. I have a 88 GMC 350 5.7L I’m bout to do same things you do this video will help me a lot. Thank you for the video Sr

[@ToxicMisfitsYt]

Tip on painting engines. You can cover parts not to be painted with Vaseline or a lot of oil and wipe off with gas to clean

[@ericthecarguy]

Or grease. We did that with the Ford engine. It worked great on the freeze plugs. That video is linked in the description. Thanks for your comment.

[@tjeick]

Great video Eric! Glad to see you're back in full swing.

[@michaelsmall6818]

I know this is an old video but I'm just now seeing it, anyways, not sure your machine shop did it but I always run a tap through every bolt hole to clean up the threads.. then blow them all out with compressed air... great video sir... you just gained another subscriber 🎉🎉😊😊

[@bigsparky8888]

Clevite/Michigan 77's are my choice...Long time since a build like this...but Clevite 77 was always my choice in any engine...GREAT CALL!!!

[@robertbryant7771]

I believe Comp cams that start with 12 are retrofit hydraulic rollers. Intended to be used in a block that does not have bosses and tapped holes for a cam retainer plate. No thrust button would be needed with a step nosed cam (start with 08- I believe). There are 2 sizes based on spacing for the cam retainer plate in blocks that were factory hydraulic roller.

[@redwingsgo12]

This was an hour of porn for me. Nice to actually see how an engine is put together by hands not diagrams and pictures.

[@claudiaaaron6986]

Wonderful explaining of assembly

[@mohammad45h]

سلام وهزاران 👍 .....جناب مهندس اریک عزیز بسیار تشکر دارم ...وهمواره بهترین ها را برایتان از خدای مهربان ارزومندم....👍....

[@kencope4902]

FINALLY a guy who says ENGINE !!...instead of " motor " now THATS professional !

[@kkal1967]

Great info... gonna start my 383 build soon.. I like old school power.. thanx Eric.. nice build.. like the foxbody in the background..

[@QuickTrickTools]

Not gonna lie, the beeping of the torque wrench is oddly satisfying.

[@SalandFindles]

I prefer the old school click sound on them myself.

[@fire7765]

Great job Eric.

[@Milner62]

Cam specs are very close to the Crane roller cam I picked up for my 306 build for my truck. 216*/224* @ 0.050, 112* LSA, 107* ICL, 0.520"/0.542" lift. Picked it out for its high lift for the AFR Renegade 165 heads I bought and because it was more fitting for a daily street truck with a C6 transmission with a goal of 3.00:1 to 3.25:1 ring and pinion swap to offset my 31x10.50-15 KO2 tires.

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Eric,cool video. You are just like me I love unpacking new fools. Yes there are other ways to do the job but he’ll life is short and I love my tools. Have a good one friend looking forward to the rest of the build Artie 👍👍👍

[@zx8401ztv]

I really liked the compressive plastic string gauge, such a simple way to do a difficult job :-D. I really didn't like that crud coming out of the coolent passages, lucky the tape presented it. I'm sure you got a lot of satisfaction assembling that engine :-D i'm reminded of the Heathkit company that made electronic kits that people could build at home, radios/weather stations and many others. The old electronic mags showed a man holding an assembled kit in both hands. " Prowd to say i built it myself "

[@ericthecarguy]

When I was a kid I used to build models. One was a Flying Fortress that had working electric motors you needed to assemble yourself. I never did get that to work right. I didn't follow the instructions either. Still, a great way to learn how to put things together. Thanks for your comment!

[@superchile9640]

Thanks Eric

[@huntercreatesthings]

Can we take a moment to appreciate how fantastic Eric's beard is?

[@aserta]

Ah, a fellow connoisseur. Yes, it is fantastic.

[@remiserriere]

Holly cow 55 minutes long! I can't watch this now but I WILL :)

[@matermark]

You squeeze the ring with your left hand and crank with your right hand; you grind both end gap faces at the same time, this way if the grinder wheel is true, the end gaps stay parallel. As for checking end gap, square up the ring in the block and put the best fitting feeler gauge in and pull the gauge and if the gauge has drag and comes out without disturbing the ring ends that's the size; if the ends get tugged away it's the size less.

[@rusty6666]

Nice work Eric always good to check all the clearances to make sure all is good nothing wrong with doing all that may take time to do buy better safe then sorry Thanks again....

[@unknownguy1123]

21:53 Honda with fartcan passin' by

[@Myvintageiron7512]

when the ring says top that does not necessarily mean it's the top ring it means that side goes up also the WD40 on the rings and skirts is so you do not glaze your cylinder walls at start up this coating of oil will glaze them your Ring gap of .018 is perfectly fine for a 4.030 bore you really should not roll compression rings on every ring manufacturer uses ring plyers and recommend always using them good video

[@gravsson4472]

Hey, great video Eric, I've been planning on pulling the 350 in my Camaro and making a 383, depending on the prices, I might roughly follow the parts list you included, at first I wasn't sure if I would ditch the block and go for a 4 bolt, but it would be cheaper to get my block machined and get cam bearings installed

[@level_up_life777]

Nice video man! I have the intake off of my 1998 Ford F-150 4.2 v6 right now

[@luisgallo5518]

I love the details, like that eminem reference.

[@TreyCook21]

Came looking for this. Love those trailer park girls.

[@BCTCanadian]

Black is the new orange... was that scripted or on-the-fly?! Either way - pretty good!

[@jjmccloud]

U know Eric, everything is on the fly haha

[@prevost8686]

Brian Chevy Orange was the ugliest engine color ever devised by man . A SBC looks much better black.

[@colehara]

@@prevost8686 Agreed! And I'm a Chevy guy.

[@rwe2156]

Am I right isn’t #8 always the hottest? You could put the .021 ring in?

[@justinballard7242]

Haha nope

[@brentmiller3951]

P

[@jonathanlawson4667]

Uh no!!! I don't know who told you that but they lied to you any given cylinder can be hotter then the other and that all depends on your carb and intake because some cheaper intakes don't distribute the gas flow evenly causes one cylinder to get just a little less fuel then the other but that really doesn't matter either unless you're talking about more then a 20 degrees difference and then you'll want to find a better flow pattern intake and I'm talking about ten thousand rpm race engines here because the average every day driver like this motor will never need adjustments like this because it doesn't matter nor will this motor ever turn 10k rpms and I'm a engine builder and dirt track driver

[@GeertPolo]

Eric! Great video again.

[@jjmccloud]

I always put the cam in first cause there's room for your hands to help guide it through the cam tunnel and plus if it doesn't spin freely or something is wrong it can be fixed without having to tear the crank and pistons back out and redo them all. Ask me how I know this lol so for me every sense I had a cam I now do it first then the crank and pistons

[@jamesc.5734]

My mechanic didn't want to paint the block black , because it wouldn't show oil leaks. I told him I had a good mechanic so the engine doesn't leak. ;o)

[@aserta]

Oh, you.

[@JohnSmith-lb3ge]

If it's a small block chevy and it's not leaking oil it's run out of oil

[@waynefish888]

Thank you for your video, very informative 😊

[@jeremyd9826]

Eric the Car Guy.... a man of many hammers...

[@Nowayjose-z2r]

Today, as many of the pop engine/machine shops are rare and the ones that are still around don't always perform all the work. I get it, machines are expensive and so are qualified employees. 20 -30 years ago it was fairly easy to find a good machine shop that did great work and 90% all in house. Granted balancing and blueprinting wasn't common etc but the basics where. Point is now days I do as much work myself as I can. I have a good machine shop but same deal. I get the block back and it's a lot cleaner then when I dropped it off but NOT clean enough. I always clean it myself and install frost and oil plugs myself after. I have had a few where none of the oil plugs were removed outside of the 6 (3 front, 3 rear, fronts are like small frost plugs). How can it be clean or at least verified as clean? I always double check machining too as needed for blueprinting anyways. Hopefully the end cap wasn't backwards when they line honed it.

[@fz1205]

You see this is exactly the difference between Eric and Andrew Camarata! Andrew's episodes are a complete start to end with a nice story line without leaving anything out. Eric's episode on the other hand doesn't have start, developing process and a nice ending; like start the engine and let us hear how it sounds! You need to hire someone who knows about story telling.

[@tedbonbrake1967]

Straight from Plastigauge, Inc.: "Ideally you should remove the PLASTIGAUGE stripe with a clean oily cloth or industrial de-greasing solvent, but users may be assured that any PLASTIGAUGE left behind is oil soluble and cannot harm the engine in any way. "

[@jjmccloud]

Really, that would be nice if true lol I've always been so meticulous to get it off lol so your saying I worried and did all that for nothing haha if so hey I'm good with that but all the guys I learned from had me worrying about leaving any behind lol

[@parrot69777]

Real engine builders use micrometers and not plastigauge.

[@NebukedNezzer]

a tiny bit of grease on the plastigage will keep it in place better.

[@jakegackle7398]

As others have stated, if your engine comes back dirty from the machine shop, then that is a lazy machinist who cuts corners. Also, your cap shouldn't have come back installed backwards. Those are both bad signs. If it were mine, I would check for warpage on the cylinder decks of the block and FOR SURE I would check the journals where they cut them to be positive they didn't cut corners there either. I tend not to be very trusting in general, but if I get clear signs that corners were cut, it's on. I measure everything and double check them. Too many places are out for the quick dollars and they don't simply take their time and do it right, like they should. The final thought on that is "How much is your integrity worth?" Each person makes that decision in every decision that they make. I try to keep mine valuable, always.

[@ralphvalkenhoff2887]

I nor any builder should rely on the machine shop work. We check EVERYTHING and clean EVERYTHING. No shop will ever take a blown engine back.

[@obezzyjohnson9680]

Very well said Jake

[@jakegackle7398]

@kc2pih I, personally, prefer to build over buy, to an extent. There is something reassuring in knowing it was built correct because I built it. To each his/her own on that, though.

[@hughmc5419]

Eric, nice build on your 383. Aww ; we thought you were going to fire it..Well be waiting...

[@34Kuro]

I had a good laugh on the 'round the outside" (twice)

[@playsportfun3356]

Thought you were suppose to put main seals in dry so they make a tiny groove on the crank and don't leak. Lubing them just primes them for a leak.

[@NebukedNezzer]

what did the machine shop say about the reversed main cap? did they line bore it that way or what?

[@alanw5812]

I don't think that is the machine shop did

[@alanw5812]

Should use ring tool not you hand ,rings are too sharp, easy to mark the pistons

[@alanw5812]

The main bearings should put the lock side first !

[@alanw5812]

Torque all of the bearings, should start from the bearing lock side first,who teach you did engine

[@TreyCook21]

Sonic with those rings, 2 trailer park girls going 'round the outside, 'round the outside... this video delivers the entertainment!

[@LoveSoLost]

" 'round the outside, 'round the outside" 40:56 Great Shoutout! Fuckin' Dying >_

[@nighthawkj30A4]

I always wondered how Plastigauge is used. Know i now thank you Eric 😎

[@Djwally13]

Black is the new orange! 😁

[@ericwilkes238]

I put rubber hoses on the rod studs when installing pistons

[@NoWr2Run]

IT'S TIME, OH BOY OH BOY, LET'S GOOOOOOOOOOO.

[@alanryderb]

Eric, ur doing it all wrong. Where was the Count impression when you put the pistons in.

[@ziomotosan1529]

Greetings from Italy !!!

[@FLYWHEELPRIME]

A SANIC HEGEHOG reference in an ETCG video. Interesting.

[@johnpike1552]

@ChrisHallett83 😂

[@dougjstl1]

you can use a long piece of rubber hose on the end of the Pistons

[@eduardoguzman6562]

exelente Trabajo Eric, me gusto mucho el video Gracias excellent work Eric, I like this video Thank you

[@tankscrittersandurbanhomes5579]

I've never measured tolerances in my life. I've built a lot of engines. Maybe I should start some day. Lol great vids

[@TrueBlueEG8]

It does depend on the engine, high performance engines do perform better with a bit of fettling

[@kevinarnold9009]

I disassembled the 350 out of my 86 k20 which has a turbo 400, the thrust bearing was so worn the crank was rubbing the block where the mains are cut out. There was evidence that someone had at least tried to reseal the oil pan, highly doubt it has been rebuilt. The seller claimed a max of 260,000 miles but he thought that the odometer had only rolled over once, it reads 60,000 so at least 160,000 miles. Makes me wander if it just had the 260,000 miles on it or it was a running engine pulled from a manual truck to get this truck running.

[@vwfanatic2390]

You make a lot of interesting videos, but this was, imho, the best one yet. Now I understand the clearances and assembly order way better. Actually I’ve watched several engines be built and never understood jack diddly squat, now I actually have a clue, only a clue, but clue is better than clueless.

[@tommyaleks100]

I think people can relax with the negative, As you all know the engine runs fine today, So everything was done right. if the mechanic shop or Eric had not know what they was doing the engine would failed the runs. So that will prove that there is lot`s of engine not knowing people here. Can`t wait for the next episode :)

[@USGunnery]

Great deductive logic

[@chrisahrens3439]

Aren't you supposed to file rings from out to inward to prevent any burrs from popping up?

[@kevinadkins3136]

There is a dancing Eric gif in there somewhere when he is doing the crank torque...haha

[@ICONBADGTA]

I (ALWAYS) stab the cam and lock it down before i set the crank in. This way if your cam is in and timing chain etc, when you check for clearance, you will know if your cam clears or not, plus it's (SOOOO MUCH EASIER) to install first... Plus the roller block locking plate holds it in place with the sprocket... I would have went minimum 383 with a XE288HR10.. OR XE282HR10 if you want milder and more torque. 500+HP with AFR 195'S on a 9.5:1+ 383.

[@jamesfarmer2748]

That block was set up for a roller cam but didn't come with one from the factory. Should be able to locate a thrust plate instead of a thrust button. did the double roller chain set require any grinding or clearancing?

[@naturesmoments1297]

You need to clean each ring after grinding, otherwise fragments will continue grinding away shortening engine life by a huge margin.

[@jjmccloud]

My Hastings rings for my sbc 350 had a dot that pointed up on 2nd rings

[@Joshua8525]

Hey Eric, at 26:34 in the video, right when your rotating the engine around to put in the pistons, I noticed something drop. Maybe more of the debris? I hope there's nothing detrimental when you go to start up the engine and run coolant through the system. Just thought you'd like to know, or you know already and have looked into it already. Love the videos, keep up the good work.

[@jeffrey4547]

i got a 327 that we as me and my friend and bell auto motive built it was nuts out we pulled it out of rick news dragster then put another 25,000 in it old man bell said it was the most he has ever dun to a small block chevy for the street it has been over 15,000 rpms many of times still have it in the shop just cost to much if it breaks last time it was over 5,000 to fix it so i retired it just to much for the street 1200 hp on pump gas no nitro and it rev like a sob so fast it could twist the end off the steel crank if u went all out but it was a lot of fun right now i got about 800 hp in my pu with the stroked 454 with tunnel ram and the old 400 turbo's get the heavy duty one's they work really good seems to hold up just fine to 800 hp

[@workingguy6666]

Really enjoyed the ring-gapping part (I learned a little, which is nice!), will watch the rest later.