Control Your IKEA Air Filter with Home Assistant and ESP8266 Upgrade

[@3ATIVE]

*Some recent comments mention the boards can be different and they need to move the Control Knob* To "fix" you issue you have, cut the track before the resistor the White wire is attached to. See here: imgur.com/a/S7vJe1l

[@Missi0n141]

This is a bit like if Bob Ross knew how to solder and was savy with Home Assistant. Excellent work - you've earnt my sub!

[@3ATIVE]

LMAO - I will take that compliment 💖 Thank you for your support too. 🙏

[@itsmrpaddy]

Now you mention it ... There are similarities :-D Second video of 3ATIVE VFX Studio I ever saw, and I'm loving it already! Sub'd as well.

[@3ATIVE]

@@itsmrpaddy LOL - Thanks. I'm glad you 💖my work. Thank you for the support too.

[@NoCPU]

These videos are very motivating. I would love to learn more about your process for discovering board hacking points/connections.

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you, I'm glad you're finding them inspiring. I've been asked a few times to show R&D, or "behind the scenes". It's something I thinking about - Maybe I'll do a live stream on that.

[@ZakDimov]

Hi, Thank you for this video. Can you please tell me the model and specs of the 'Voltage Regulator'. thank you in advance.

[@3ATIVE]

Hi there. You are welcome. 👍 Everything you need can be found in the videos' description - Look for the Amazon Link.

[@TheOldYeBard]

Fantastic content. I have subscribed and keen to tackle this as a project. What would be great is a parts & materials list for everything used in video, with purchase sources. Is this something you can share to make following along easier?

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you, I'm glad you liked and have subbed - Welcome. Yes, you'll find all the things I mention and use in the description (Amazon Shop Link)

[@MrBassistfromhell]

This is fantastic, thanks for sharing! Worked great.

[@3ATIVE]

It's so great to hear you found my li' video both useful and it worked for you. - I appreciate the feedback *AND* the support. _Thank you fella._ 👍

[@thewardster99]

Fantastic work, I'm very tempted to give this a try as we have 2 of these units at home.

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you, I'm glad it may inspire you to try it out for yourself. Good luck and have fun.

[@SaifulIslam-pp6dg]

​@@3ATIVEll

[@Dianaranda123]

Pretty cool. Curious though to see if you could do one of those also for the bigger brother, the Starkvind, or if that is even neccessary in the first place. Because the Starkvind already having an automatic mode?

[@3ATIVE]

Thanks. For that other one, I doubt the main internals are much different - So, yeah... I could prolly work something out. Although I have no plans to that atm.

[@Dianaranda123]

@@3ATIVE Thanks for the reply, to bad you dont have any plans for it.

[@3ATIVE]

@@Dianaranda123 I did look at all IKEA's filters and didn't use that mainly because I didn't like the look of it... oh and the price. - I went with lower cost so more people could use it too.

[@Dianaranda123]

@@3ATIVE Well i went with this bigger one because of my apartments layout, being bassically 1 big room. So i was curious if it has the same electronics.

[@3ATIVE]

@@Dianaranda123 I see, that makes sense. Well if enough people ask for it, I'll be happy to buy one and try.

[@raoulvisser2092]

Love this project, Was wondering how would i change the script to a ESP32dev board? Im in over my head on this!

[@3ATIVE]

I'm glad to hear that, thanks. As for changing to an ESP32, it fairly easy. In ESPHome you just need to: * Change the Board to ESP32 * Re-assign the pins... D1 Mini's use D-Numbers where as ESP32 (normally) use "GPIOXX" designations.

[@diegogalue]

I made this project using an ESP32 but also using the library Homespan for the Apple HomeKit, and it's fully functional. However, there's one important detail to keep in mind: the ESP32 outputs a maximum pulse voltage of 3.3V, so you'll need a 3.3V to 5V Bi-Directional Logic Level Converter to ensure compatibility with the air purifier's circuits. The GitHub repository for the ESP32 version of the project you can find it looking for "Ikea-Air-Purifier-ESP32-Homespan". Let me know if you have any other questions-I’m happy to help! 😊

[@koopa2k]

nice! cloning shall begin when the delivery arrives!

[@3ATIVE]

Thanks. Have fun.

[@nigelholland24]

Very impressive well done

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you Sir. I hope you find/found it helpful.

[@BradA25]

Thanks for another great video, really informative! I was wondering if you had seen the smaller air filter from Ikea, the Uppatvind, and looked at similar mods for that one?

[@3ATIVE]

Thnx Brad, I'm glad you liked the video/tutorial. I wonder... have you followed this version or do you only have the smaller one? A discord member did mention this one but, it was too small for my needs. * I [may] get one and "convert" it - If enough peeps request it. 👍

[@BradA25]

@@3ATIVE Thanks, yes I've got one as the bigger one was too big for my needs, the PCB is quite different as it doesn't have the rotary switch etc. I'm happy to send some photos of the board and inside of the unit if you would like to see them.

[@3ATIVE]

@@BradA25 I hear ya... Sure - Come join my Discord, to post photos and let's see what we can work out for ya and a new tutorial ? LOL discord.com/invite/3RbZgvHeJ9

[@dj-aj6882]

Great Work. The next step would be to read out the poti again and either control the fan or something else in HA...

[@3ATIVE]

Indeed.. although I don't what "poti" is. Part2 is converting the IKEA Air Filter and Part3 (which will be out next week) is getting this Air Quality Sensor to control the IKEA Air Filter. #StayTuned !! :)

[@dj-aj6882]

@@3ATIVE I mean Potentiometer. In German it's commonly shortened that way. But your right it's probably a switch or rotary encoder on the top of the filter.

[@3ATIVE]

@@dj-aj6882 OIC... No worries, we shorten it to a "pot" here.

[@smitcher]

I assume@@3ATIVE that the pot doesn't control the fan any more since when the fan speed is set to 0 in HA then it applies 0v to the resistor before the mosfet, thus sinking the clock from the microcontroller and holding the mosfet off. Is there the possibility to set the d1mini pin to input and count the clock pulses from the original controller and that way you can still use the onboard control but also keep track of the filter age from manual control? I suppose you could change the HA controls to have 0-8 levels and map the 0-4 of the original control to 0,2,4,6,8 but it could get messy if both were activated at same time. Also possible is a new switch in HA that switches it back to manual mode and actually cuts the path between the microcontroller and mosfet when HA is controlling it but enables a "manual" mode...

[@3ATIVE]

@@smitcher Indeed, the signal out of the D1 Mini "Overrides" the on-board MCU, holding that MOSFET low when "off". I wanted everything controlled and read by HA so there's no need to go to the unit for Speed control and Filter Reset. If you wanted a "manual / Auto" options then yes, you could break and bridge those lines - switching them in HA but, why would you want to? I like things automated and thus eliminate the need to interact with my devices.

[@Ruarc]

Nice project! I just completed it and it works wonderfully! I was just wondering one thing, would it theoretically be possible, to turn that speed-slider into a fan-component so it shows as a fan in home assistant? I had a look around the docs but couldn't yet figure out myself how to alter your code in a way that it does what I want it to do. Maybe that's because I'm still new to ESPHome, who knows :p

[@3ATIVE]

That's great to hear - I'm glad you found my video easy enough to follow. I originally made this conversion so that it would be automatically controlled by the previous (IKEA Air Quality Sensor) tutorial. However, there have been a few people who have also requested a "Fan" component. I may make a follow-up on how to _convert the conversion_ LOL

[@Ruarc]

@@3ATIVE Thanks for the quick response! Yeah, the air quality sensor is still on my desk and will be converted shortly after :p A follow up would be really nice though, thanks for taking the time to look into it!

[@M0PAX]

Thanks for the great content. I will be off to Ikea soon. Will this work with the bigger filter the round one starkvind costing £145 as this one has a pre filter to catch the bigger particles and make the HEPA last even longer. I know it can be controlled by vindstyrka can it be adapted to input to HA. Again, great videos I need to get building

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you for the kind words. 🙏 I can't answer about that other filter. However, I can't imagine it being much different - Don't quote me on that, as I've not seen inside one and I'd have to reverse-engineer it first.

[@M0PAX]

I might get one and have a look also what is the cable you use in the box you did mention it in another video? from Amazon?

[@3ATIVE]

@@M0PAX Cool, Let me know how you get on. For the cable (and everything I use in these videos) Check the description for the Amazon Link, labelled: "Get the Gadgets, Devices and Tools I use"

[@altaresification]

Great work! Would have loved some added sensors like the previous IKEA hack.

[@3ATIVE]

I thought about that when I started this (these) projects. However, having sensors in the device that 'cleans' the air seemed silly. :)

[@altaresification]

@@3ATIVE Fair enough 👍

[@highkicker11]

yeah it is silly as thats a thing i dislike about the ikea smarthome aircleaner and my dyson air cleaner heater. the units work great for the air surrounding them but its not acurate in larger rooms. so my airfilter is running almost 24/7@ its slowest speed manual set and i use other sensors to check the quality of the air.

[@MrLapomme972]

Waw ! Nice ! Pretty well explain and pretty well made

[@3ATIVE]

Why thank you very much, I'm glad you liked it and I hope you find it useful too.

[@iainhay2823]

Great video (well the whole set of them frankly), I have set this up but I have a small issue, the fan never totally turns off, at 0 it turns ever so slowly. Have got around the issue but adding a smart plug which turns on the unit if the air quality starts to worsen and then the unit takes over to control the fan but this is obviously a bit hacky. Any thoughts on why this might be?

[@3ATIVE]

Ok, now I've seen this LOL Just in case others will find this useful to... As the White Wire controls the MOSFET and thus switches power to the Fan, My guess is that's where the problem is. Check there for either bad or wrong connection

[@marcovergueiraxd]

I encountered the same issue. You need to cut the PCB trace originating from the native controller. It's possible that the PCB revision or firmware differs from what's shown in the video, causing an unintended pull-down inside the chip when it's not in use.

[@iainhay2823]

@@marcovergueiraxd thanks for this I’ve not got around to looking back at it yet so I’ll check this out. Where exactly do you mean? Might be obvious when I look but away from home at the moment

[@marcovergueiraxd]

​@@iainhay2823 I'm referring to the track that connects the U1 to R13.

[@iainhay2823]

@@marcovergueiraxdthanks that’s really helpful I’ll take a look when home later in the week 👍

[@compfool]

Have you thought about intercepting the signal from the filter reset button to reset the filter counter in the app?

[@3ATIVE]

That wasn't my first thought - I wanted everything 'remote'. However, it's defo an option.

[@itsmrpaddy]

That would be an idea indeed, I mean ... if you have to change the filter you are already physically present at the device. Might as well press that button instead of getting out your phone to do so.

[@3ATIVE]

@@itsmrpaddy Like I say, it could be an option. 👍 Either-way, you'd really only have to "reset" about every 6+ Months... I take my phone far more often than that! LMAO

[@dennisolsson3119]

If you time the feedback on a given speed it might show you if the filter is clogged and the fan runs faster than it should. Unless the fan has an active speed controller.

[@3ATIVE]

That could be a viable option... However, getting a correlation between speed sent and expected pulses received.... well, good luck with that Math!!! LOL

[@dennisolsson3119]

@@3ATIVE you could, if you have the motivation, try to set the output to something fixed, like 100Hz and then count the input pulses during a minute. Compare a clean filter with a dirty and you could just use a fixed threshold. If you can see the difference even on the lowest rpm you would have a calibration routine every day where it just spins down and checks feedback. That would avoid needing to do this for all speeds. "If pulses in are less than Y during 60 seconds in diagnostics mode: light the lamp"

[@3ATIVE]

@@dennisolsson3119 Cool. I look forward to seeing your results. Please post your code too.

[@bennopuetz206]

Great job - would you mind sharing a link to the DC converter module? Have been looking for one with Uin>30V without much success …

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you. You'll find links to everything I use In the description.

[@Stgw44]

Great work! I have just a question, to avoid a step down DC controller, is it possible to catch the +5V from the board? I See a +5V point in the board layout.

[@3ATIVE]

Thank you 👍 I did try the on-board 5 volt rail. However, the on-board regulator got too hot for my liking.

[@Stgw44]

@@3ATIVE OK got it! Thank you for the advise!

[@3ATIVE]

@@Stgw44 You're welcome - If you need any more advice, feel free to ask.

[@zwp6]

I've followed the guide and am happy with the result. It's almost as good at the solution I have in my other Fornuftig that I installed a custom ESP enabled PCD in. The only issue I have with this solution is that it doesn't present a simple on/off function to Home Assistant, I have to control it via specifying the fan speed. The code looks like it should present a switch with an on off function, but no function appears in the device controls in HA. Is there anything i could do to add this swtich?

[@3ATIVE]

This was designed to be controlled by my previous project the *IKEA Air Quality Sensor* - So, I opted to put the "Off" control on the Slider's Zero position. - However, if you want the Extra control of an On/Off "Switch" for Home Assistant.. You could easily add it. - In fact my other tutorial: *"Ultimate Fan Project"* has a Switch ( _Called Master_ ) that does just that. *Check it out here* >> kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYnKe6yPrNGYoNE Happy Coding.

[@mikesherman4513]

Have you considered another mod to turn the LED on when the fan is running?

[@3ATIVE]

Not really as I'm not sure how that would be useful - It would be like having a Lamp in a car that indicates it's moving!! LOL - What is you reasoning for the LED ?

[@mikesherman4513]

​@@3ATIVE About to mod my second one. Fan is very quiet, and I'd like to know when it's running. My automations turn the fan off when the windows are open. Just nice to know if they fail and leave it running with the windows are open

[@3ATIVE]

@@mikesherman4513 When the White Wire goes High it turns on a MOSFET - which in turn switches the 24V line to the fan. Now that won't spin the fan, the Fan's speed is controlled by the PWM signal on the Green wire. In order to know when the fan IS running, you can pull a signal from the Blue Wire, that's the feedback from the Fan itself.

[@HATipsByLarry]

Looking good Dave. 😀

[@3ATIVE]

Cheers fella. 🙏

[@nutbox76]

Hi Thank yoh for another great how to much appreciate, Now i have just put this together and uploaded the code on to the mini and reinstalled it all but for some reason the fan isnt running? When i move the slider the age counter goes up and the the minis blue light is turned on but no fan. Any suggestions please.

[@3ATIVE]

Sounds to me like you have the Blue and Green wires reversed. Check your wires at both ends.

[@nutbox76]

@@3ATIVE I shall give it another look tomorrow with fresh eyes ,thank you

[@nutbox76]

@@3ATIVE Right so i had another look and checked the wiring which checked out fine but i have managed to get the fam moving with the slider but i have to turn the knob to 1 to get the fan moving . When the slider is set to 0 the fan is still moving but at a low speed and doesnt stop unless i turn the knob off but then the filter age counter carries on counting? What am i missing? Thank you for you help much appreciated

[@nutbox76]

right it the old saying read the comments and you will find your answer lol,all sorted now thank you.

[@3ATIVE]

@@nutbox76 oh that's great news. 🥳 Weird that so many people have the same issue and I don't - I must make a 'Pinned Comment' ASAP

[@swiftmaster6826]

how do u use a esp32 wroom 32 i dont have a d1

[@3ATIVE]

I change the code! LOL FYI: I'm not sure that DEV Board will fit anyway.

[@neilos2085]

Can you use a mini 360 buck in place of the regulator you used?

[@3ATIVE]

You can use anything you want... As long as it can take in the 24V and output 5V

[@neilos2085]

Actually that is 5v to 3…. I have a hlk-5m05 which can step down 240v to 5v, sounds a better option right?

[@neilos2085]

5V 1A 90VAC~265VAC 120V~350V 5W AC-DC 69% Plugin Power Modules ROHS (it says)

[@3ATIVE]

@@neilos2085 I think we're missing something here. The Ikea unit already comes with a Mains to 24v PSU So, the Regulator I used takes that 24v and steps it down to 5v for the D1 Mini.

[@neilos2085]

Typical. Back to Amazon I go. And expect no delivery as it bank holiday 😂😅

[@MarcoPozzuolo]

Great Job, Just replicated from Italy. I have to ask a suggestion. Wich Home Assistant card you suggest to better control Air Purifier? Thanks

[@3ATIVE]

As the Filter Speed is controlled by a "Slider" (0 = Off) Any card will do. However, for me, I don't need/use any control in Home Assistant - My IKEA Air Quality Sensor sets the Filter's speed automatically.

[@MarcoPozzuolo]

@@3ATIVE ok clear. As you know is there a way to show fan speed as a fan instead of a slider? I ordered material for air quality mod😁, can you share your automations? Thanks

[@3ATIVE]

@@MarcoPozzuolo Oh cool - Have fun. Like I said, once the Air Quality Sensor is done, that controls the Air Filters' Speed. That's all done with the updated code I shared with my other tutorial: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZmjNnoejbK2XntU However, if you still want manual control of the Filters' speed, this tutorial should help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2irpmyigr-moNk

[@MarcoPozzuolo]

@@3ATIVE thanks a lot for your work🙏

[@3ATIVE]

@@MarcoPozzuolo You are most welcome. I have a lot more to make.

[@rklauco]

Just out of curiosity - the board has already 5V LDO. Why not take 5V from there? Is there a concern about too much current?

[@3ATIVE]

The on-board regulator is far too weak to provide enough power for the D1 Mini - It would get too hot.

[@DarkRehabOfficial]

Thank you for these awesome tutorials! :D

[@3ATIVE]

My pleasure! - Stay Tuned for Part 3, it's really gonna tie both the IKEA units together 😊

[@DarkRehabOfficial]

​@@3ATIVEAwesome! Btw. I wonder if there is a way to get the "pax calima" bathroom fan into esphome? If you know this fan? :D

[@3ATIVE]

@@DarkRehabOfficial Maybe. Although from looking at it's specs - It's already fully automatic.

[@DarkRehabOfficial]

​@@3ATIVEYes of course. It would be nice to have the values from the PAX in HA :D

[@gp2mv3]

Hey nice video ! But why didn't you take the 5V from the board directly (the +5V pin on the bottom left of the MCU) ?

[@3ATIVE]

The on-board regulator is far too weak to provide enough power for the D1 Mini - It would get too hot.

[@gavinhanel8662]

​@@3ATIVEis there a way that this could be done whilst keeping local control?

[@3ATIVE]

@@gavinhanel8662Sure, but why would you want to? The whole point of "Home Automation" is automation! LOL

​@@3ATIVEif you have a wife for instance 😃

[@gavinhanel8662]

@ that was my exact reply. Same reason I have sonoff mini r2s on each of my lights. Local control.

[@SpiceSnow-nq2ds]

nice work i will try, you may do a video on ratgdo diy board this will help many to move to opensource garge opner

[@3ATIVE]

Thanks for the idea! But if there's already someone doing that project, maybe I shouldn't - they may not like it

[@SpiceSnow-nq2ds]

@@3ATIVE I agree, the idea was to cover more audiance to over come MYQ issue. I am sure you may have better idea to enhace the circiut of this open source .

[@CrossPosterProgram]

Great thing, will be doing it now, just bought that 80-bucks device from IKEA. But i have minor question: could this logic be done using "fan" component from ESPHome instead of number? I believe so, but can't put that 5o% duty cycle, servo and stuff together to trick out fan configuration, and afraid to fry the device... Having fan would be really cool, at least for me, cuz i have auto-generated dashboard and automations/scripts, working on new Labels + Zones in HA...

[@3ATIVE]

The main reason is the way the Fan works. During my R&D/Testing I measured these pulses per speed Speed 1 = 100 Pulses/s S2 = 200 & S3 = 300 So, I needed a way for the D1 Mini to output what the fan was looking for. Plus doing it this way means I could not keep the fan happy. Plus, dividing meant I could have 6 speeds instead of 3.

[@3ATIVE]

Additional: I wanted mine to be controlled (automated) by my previous project - The IKEA Air Quality Sensor. - So there is/was no need to have anything in HA (Fan or otherwise).

[@CrossPosterProgram]

@@3ATIVE right, so basically pulses frequency is linear from 0 to 300 Hz, right? We could put that to fan, making it either continuous (looks like direct x3 mapping for percentage), or with same 3 or 6 speeds. At least I know how to do it in HA integration - so it should be possible to do it in ESPHome too... You see, many people out there stick to HA automations instead of direct device-device interaction. I fully appreciate that ypur way is much more robust and low-level, and works by itself - but HA way has its own advantages, such as additional variables (e.g. I don't care about air quality while no one is home, why waste filters and electricity) and universal approach (I got 3 different kinds of air quality sensors in my home and 2 different purifier types, this one will be third one - and all logic is within one single automation, centralized and clean). So I will try to convert your approach to fan. Thank you for all R&D and basically all job done! :)

[@3ATIVE]

@@CrossPosterProgram No worries, I put these tutorials out to not only show what I do in my home but, to inspire others to build on what I make. For "Not at Home" I've added an "Enable/Disable" of the IKEA Air Sensor, much like the "Window" sensor I used on the Filter project. That way I can "disable" the ESPHome automation when I'm away, etc.

[@CrossPosterProgram]

​@@3ATIVE okey-dokey, so I just replaced your number with template fan, set speeds there and on_speed_se5/on_turn_on/on_turh_off lambdas. Works as a charm. Now I want to tune a bit that filter age counter, cuz it seems to count all the time. I want to stop counter if fan isn't working. And probably make that ugly number internal, exposing some template sensor with calculated percent left. Just wanted to ask: am I right that that counter is just counting time till 6 months based on clk?

[@albertvanwessel]

Will saving to flash every 3 minutes kill flash i think it cant be write. That often. Would it be a better idea to save the state to homeassistant or to mqtt with the retain flag

[@3ATIVE]

I don't think so... after-all the Default is every 1 Minute

[@mattbsea]

Is the stock micro still powered? Why doesn’t it interfere with the fan speed when you turn the dial?

[@3ATIVE]

Yes | No | 18:59

[@SminkyBazzA]

@@3ATIVE mattbsea's second question was "why" doesn't it interfere with the fan speed. Sorry for being slow, but I can't see in your video where/how the built-in functionality is being overridden. Many thanks

[@3ATIVE]

@@SminkyBazzA The White is held low, by the D1 Mini when the slider is Zero. Therefore any signal from the "Stock Micro" is "Overridden".

[@grahamsmith2431]

@@3ATIVE Are two outputs shorted together? Maybe better to cut connection to the "Stock Micro"

[@RenfoJu1]

Not sure what is wrong: I cut the connection under the white wire and am sure, it is cut. However, the control knob still works as before and the only thing I can do from home assistant is to turn the fan off by setting the speed to 0. If I want to get it back on, I have to turn the knob to 0 and back. Any advice how to debug?

[@3ATIVE]

Sounds to me like you haven't cut the track properly.

[@raoulvisser2092]

I have shorted the IKEA pcb unfortuatly with my multimeter. beginners luck I suppose... Is there anyway to not use the PCB and connect it directly?

[@3ATIVE]

You're not the only one... I did that too. I just brought another. However, all that board is used for is controlling the LEDs, changing their brightness and turning the Fan on&off... All of which can be done with your ESP32.

[@raoulvisser2092]

@@3ATIVE ah I feel so stupid when it happend! Can i connect the 24v from imput to the Fan directly, and connect the clk and the FG directly to the ESP6288? Ive messured 2.5v on both the CLK and FG when I power the fans directly 24v (the fan will go max speed). I just dont want to short the ESP board. I have the ESP32 and a Ali D1 Mini now.

[@3ATIVE]

@@raoulvisser2092 Sorry fella, I got confused - I thought you were the guy using an ESP32 in the IKEA Air Quality Sensor. Hmmm, the Air Filter board shouldn't be too hard to 'reverse engineer'. It's just a PWM for the Fan and MOSFET for its 24V supply. Then there's a "Pulse" coming back out.

[@raoulvisser2092]

@@3ATIVE No your right, I am that guy. just got my D1 Ali deleverd yesterday. Is the 24v that the IKEA pcb is passing though the Fans being manipulated by the Clk? of is CLK modifying the speed inside the FAN? Ive checked a YT vid. saying that if the PMV isnt getting a signal it will go Hi. So if i just connect the GPIO CLK wire to the CLK Fan wire. It could work. what do you think?

[@3ATIVE]

@@raoulvisser2092 OIC... So here's the run down: CLK (Green Wire) is the PWM for Fan Speed. FG (Blue Wire) Pulse out from the Fan. The White wire (connected to the R13) is how the ESP turns the fan's 24V On&Off via that MOSFET (Q2). The Idea being that the fan isn't powered all the time - Like when you're not spinning the fan.

[@qiou29]

Trying to build this. I'm a bit confused with the pinout I see in the YAML file that D2,D4,D6,D7 are being used, compared to what is described in the video. However D4 is not connected in the video. Could you made an update in the README or something else to update the circuit and the pinout on the board ?

[@3ATIVE]

Everything is correct. D4 is the D1 Mini's on-board LED: 15:54

[@qiou29]

@@3ATIVE Thx

[@stian5851]

I gave this a try, and it seems to be at least partly working. I can't turn the fan on or off from HA, I have to put the dial to either 1, 2 or 3 position. Then I can change the speed, but not turn off. I've read here there "should" not be a problem with the original microcontroller, but it does seem to be interfering on my device. Any advice?

[@3ATIVE]

Some recent comments mention the boards can be different. To "fix" you issue you have, cut the track before the resistor the White wire is attached to. Try that and let me know if that fixes it for you.

[@stian5851]

@@3ATIVE ​ Yep, that solved it! Of course read those comments after posting myself.. Now I see something else I think may also have a similar fix, or maybe it's intended by design, though maybe should have been even lower value, I don't really understand the yaml code well enough to say. But, thing is, the filter age is incrementing when the fan is set to 0, more so than by a higher setting. Let's say for example the age increments by 1 every two seconds on speed 1, but on speed 0 it increments by 6 or 7 every two seconds.

[@3ATIVE]

@@stian5851It's always the way. Glad it fixed it for you too. Looking at mine, at speed zero my counter is not moving. I can't see why any signals would be coming off the original controller for that. So, you could try cutting the track that comes after the "FG" pad, where we solder the Blue wire (with the 10K resistor) between the resistor and the original controller. Again, please comment back if that works too.

[@MarcoPozzuolo]

​ @3ATIVE Hi, I tried and I can confirm that cutting the track that comes after the "FG" pad and the original controller the issue is fixed

[@kulnis182]

Just for clarification, is the final results to control fan , like on-off and control the fan speed? As my final result, I can control the speed, but I need to turn on the switch to either 1-2-3 position If I turn to 0, fan doesn't work and I can't control it via HA. And also, if switch is on and on 0 position in HA it constantly works on lowest speed So I wondering if did something wrong with soldering or the code...

[@3ATIVE]

Yes, the idea is to On (control Speed) and Off. As for needing the move the control... Some recent comments mention the boards can be different. To "fix" you issue you have, cut the track before the resistor the White wire is attached to. Try that and let me know if that fixes it for you.

[@kulnis182]

KZbin algorithm is a mess. Only see a lot of comments about this after I wrote one. Is there any way you could provide more details how to cut the track before resistor? I have no knowledge how things just works and just followed the tutorial 😀

[@3ATIVE]

@@kulnis182 I obviously didn't need to cut the track on mine. However, If I do need to cut one, I just use a sharp knife... Box-Cutter / Exacto / Etc.

[@kulnis182]

Sorry for the stupid question, but where is place on the board I need to cut it?

[@3ATIVE]

@@kulnis182 Cut the track that's between the resistor, where the White Wire is soldered, and the on-board Micro-controller.

[@firatylmaz8513]

There are something I didn't get. 1- How do you know which variables you must use in order to control the board belong to IKEA? 2- This kind of video is really shocked me. For example can I do this kind of stuff to my wifi boiler thermostat? I've subscribed bro.

[@3ATIVE]

It's called "Reverse Engineering" - I first look at the board and work out what the Microcontroller is doing. This is mainly done by seeing what's connected to it. - Obviously, there is some prior knowledge needed - I've been an Electronics engineer all my life LOL Next, knowing what these components do, I replicate the signals on the D1 Mini and replace the IKEA ones with my own.

[@firatylmaz8513]

@@3ATIVE You're real superman. Thanks so much for explaining.

[@empathon]

Great video but please get a better mic 🙏

[@3ATIVE]

I do have a good one but, OBS's setting got screwed up and it all when distorted - Didn't realise until the edit. It's fixed now so "Part1" sounds much better

[@obijuan3004]

What was the point?

[@3ATIVE]

What part?

[@itsmrpaddy]

Hmm, was that a serious question..? To control the fan with Home Assistant of course 😀 And reading the answer he wrote to another question, later use the data from the IKEA air quality sensor (in Home Assistant) to turn on this fan if needed. An absolutely awesome idea.

[@darknessblades]

The way I would hack this would be Gut out the controller/99% of the electronics and use a DC switch. and have a PC fan controller instead that works with 24V.

[@3ATIVE]

Sounds like a "plan" - I look forward to your tutorial.

[@darknessblades]

@@3ATIVE Don't have one "yet", and would be more or less making a DIY version. with 3D printing. if they are on sale might snatch one