3D Kitbash | Scrap Mech

Shout out to TheDiceOrDie on instagram for inspiring the video!
I probably should have printed each leg all combined too-- but that's ok. Next time!
TheDiceOrDie:
/ thediceordie
The Makers Cult:
bit.ly/theMake...
My Instagram:
/ ipaintsmallthings

[@tannerchristensen5761]

I've been on a kick of using UV resin as the first step of gluing precarious things together. In the situations I've tried it on, it holds well enough to then allow me to use super glue for a less brittle bond. Maybe I just need to take a closer look at your backlog, but I'd love to see in more detail how you go about slicing models. Always booleans? What if you are needing a curved split? Is just making a curved boolean cutter the best way?

[@iPaintSmallThings]

I've been meaning to get some of that-- maybe now is the time! It has a lot of uses it seems. I am lazy so I really only use the boolean difference or the bisect tool. I've had trouble finding a good solution for making curved cuts. Yeah, I normally just use a curved boolean cutter. It's probably not the best way to do things but it works for 3d printing pretty well!

[@tannerchristensen5761]

@@iPaintSmallThings I just use 3d printing resin, not the viscous stuff used for basing and dioramas

[@iPaintSmallThings]

@@tannerchristensen5761 oh interesting. I never thought of using that stuff. You just pour some into a lil container use an old brush?

[@tannerchristensen5761]

@@iPaintSmallThings Yep. I line the wells of a dry palette with tin foil, pour the as little as I can, then apply with an old skinny brush and cure with a UV flashlight. Then when I'm done for the day, the only clean up is curing the unused resin with the flashlight, bundling up the tin foil, and you're good.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

@@tannerchristensen5761 I'll try that next time I do a big kitbash like this! Thank you!

[@echlinryan]

Talented digital kibashers like you don't get enough credit, looks awesome.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

haha I appreciate it! :D

[@dexstclaire5442]

Couple of modelling tips. For wraps like the ones you made for the canopy, you can use a flat dental floss. For wires/cabling just use regular wire. Old USB or Ethernet cords are a great source of wire. Solid video.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Using dental floss is a great idea! Haha it's fitting that wires make the best wires. Thank you!

[@earlware4322]

For extra tiny wires an old set of headphones has very fine wires. Plus, the mesh covers of the earbuds themselves come in handy for all kinds of things.

[@joecamel2002]

2:48 happy little accidents :D good job timo

[@iPaintSmallThings]

haha beautiful mistakes. Thank you, yung camel.

[@NeonPinkApokalypse-nw6gv]

Love this mix of 3d print/editing and trad conversion/sculpting!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

haha I really appreciate it! It's a blast

[@bobbyparker4613]

I don't know if anyone else has mentioned this, but you asked for super glue tricks. You can get super glue to dry in about 5-10 seconds with baking soda. Just sand the two gluing surfaces, rub a little baking soda on one side and put the super glue on the other, then press them together, you'll have about 10 seconds to fiddle with getting the placement just right. I use this trick for almost every mini I build so I don't have to wait on drying times. Also, Biomutant was an extremely polarizing game, personally I enjoyed it. It isn't for everyone and sometimes the combat can become tedious because you'll find two or three moves that work for everything and just spam those with no real tactics involved. However if you enjoy beautiful scenery, dynamic world building, and quirky characters then I think you'd still enjoy the game. Also to save money on voice actors the developers had all the characters speak a simm's-like gibberish with only one narrator who translates for everyone. So if his voice annoys you, just realize you're stuck with it till you're done with the game.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

I've never thought to put baking soda on one side-- I always try to sprinkle it on. Smart haha haha I might still enjoy it then. I think it was a really weird decision to make the narrator a david attenborough sounding guy. Also, to not be able to turn him off is strange, too.

[@ashcullen9835]

Loving the content so much. A YT hidden gem!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Thanks so much! I appreciate it!

[@Matt-md5yt]

Sweet kitbashing you did my friend

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Thank you! :D

[@JackDespero]

Amazing figure. Great work.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

I really appreciate it!

[@angelozaccarin9130]

Wow, I should really watch your blender tutorials this is awesome! Also if you plan to sand it you can look into milliput, it dries rock hard instead of the gummy finish of the greenstuff so it's really easy to sand into a smooth surface

[@iPaintSmallThings]

haha thank you! I've been meaning to get some to try-- that would definitely help. Thank you for the tip!

[@NecroBurt]

3d printing has really changed kitbashing wow.

[@CaptainofmyShed]

As well as baking soda, you can push cotton wool into small gaps and then soak with thin ca glue. Dries quick and sets hard. Great way to stick uneven surfaces together.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Oh that's a good idea, too! I'll have to try that sometime.

[@anthonypc1]

Awesome sculpture! missed getting to watch your painting process on this one. Also would be cool to see a colorful version of this. Could go a lot of different ways. Rusty, earthy, purples ??

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Thank you-- I make sure to include the process in videos these days! haha maybe if I do a grot army I'll go wild with the colors

[@gameyybuilds]

Really enjoying these videos man! My only complaint is that I’d love to see your painting process!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

I really appreciate it! haha I just don't want my videos to be too long and didn't know if people would like seeing how I paint. I really appreciate the feedback^^ I'll try to add some paintin' in the future

[@gameyybuilds]

@@iPaintSmallThings I watched a few other videos and saw you explain the painting process, so that was great. Maybe it’s just me, but I love seeing the whole process. Maybe do a poll and see what your viewers want?

[@iPaintSmallThings]

​@@gameyybuilds I sorta like seeing the painting process when I watch videos, too. I haven't thought of doing a poll! I'll try to get one goin' Also, I checked out your channel and you're amazing! Really cool robot builds. I love the world you've made.

[@gameyybuilds]

@@iPaintSmallThings Thanks! I’ve been doing polls every few weeks to try to better understand my audience and the feedback has been invaluable!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

@@gameyybuilds I'll get on that haha I'm still getting used to the whole "people may actually be interested in my projects" thing.

[@soupyk]

youre very cool. thank you for the very cool content

[@iPaintSmallThings]

I appreciate it, Soupy Cat!!

[@kickpunched]

Love this so very much!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

I really appreciate it m8!!

[@harvestblades]

That's badass!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Thank you! haha I appreciate it!

[@h.s.lafever3277]

an enthusiastic two thumbs up

[@iPaintSmallThings]

:O that is high praise! Thank you!

[@mooseworks_soldiers]

Kick ass!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Thank you mate!!

[@modelermark172]

This is very impressive work, but not what I expected . . . . Back in the day, "kit-bashing" meant taking parts from existing model kits, along with "found" items, and building something . . . 'different.' The late master modeler Shep Paine called this, "Creative Gizmology." The modelers at Industrial Light and Magic referred to these details as "Greeblies." But your method takes this idea to the next level by combining digital elements from computer files, and 3D Printing them into a unique, finished unit. But you also don't completely discard the "old ways"; adding to your model with wood, paper clips and shop towel to make the canopy, and using green stuff to fix flaws and add texture, as well as other, "Old-School" modeling methods. Again, this is fantastic work!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

wow wow I really appreciate the kind words! I love how you described what I'm trying to do and for teaching me something new-- I'll have to look up more about Shep Paine and Creative Gizmology! I got the idea of clipping digital objects into each other by watching a guy named Silvarret play roller coaster games on KZbin! The roller coaster video game community will rotate, scale, and clip objects to repurpose them to create something new (like taking a lamp post and using it as wooden beams for a building, or sinking a tree into the ground to create a bush). I thought it could work for miniatures as well! Thanks again Modeler Mark!!

[@modelermark172]

I'm glad I could offer some useful (dare I say sage) advice. I'm 64, and I have been model building since I was six. I'm old enough to have lived through two paradigm shifts in the hobby. When I first got into model building circa. 1966, there were still a lot of kits at local hobby shops that used wood as the primary material. And here, I'm not just talking about balsa and tissue lying model aircraft, or plank-on-frame wooden sailing ship kits; but also static display models of cars, military vehicles, and aircraft that had to be carved from provided, rough-shaped wooden "blanks." (Many of these had their beginnings in World War 2 "aircraft recognition models," also known as 'spotter' or "I.D.' models, that were produced by the thousands and used for training antiaircraft artillery crews. These models were painted flat black and lacked any real surface detail or markings in order to simulate a silhouette.) But by then, Styrene injection molded kits were growing in popularity for their quicker, less tedious assembly and increased potential for details that solid wooden models lacked. Because of this, many "old stock" solid wooden kits just sat on the shelves as the newer plastic kits flew off by the thousands. But there was still some controversy in the hobby. The "Old-School" modelers often said that this wasn't "really modeling," and all people were doing was just gluing plastic parts together. I got that directly (but not unkindly) when I was nine and I was looking at the variety of kits in the toy section of our local Target store. An "old man" (around my age now) was there, and commented to me that when he was nine, he carved models out of solid pine. Flash forward half a century, and I was in a hobby shop where a 3D Printer was being demonstrated. A couple of kids about ten were watching, suitably impressed. I couldn't resist telling them that when I was there age, if you wanted to build a model, you had to get an injection molded kit. I knew that 3D Printing could be used to produce custom parts, figures, and entire kits. But your "clipping digital objects" is taking this to an entirely new level! My personal joke is that I'm too young to carve a solid model out of pine using templates, and too old to write code for a 3D Printer. So 'traditional' Styrene kits are my medium. I think you will be impressed by the work of Shep Paine. You should also Google François Verlinden, Bob Letterman, and Lewis Pruneau. I had the good fortune to meet Mssr. Verlinden in my teens when he was visiting a local hobby shop, being escorted by Mr. Letterman; who was a member of the same IPMS Chapter that I attended in the 1970's - 1980's. Mr. Pruneau also belonged to that chapter. I learned a LOT from them! Sadly, I never got the chance to meet Mr. Paine . . . . Happy Modeling!

[@ardendijayasentosa9871]

Cool mecha

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Danke!!

[@aussiecylon399]

Awesome work, but I really wouldn’t call it “kitbashing”, in the traditional way. “Printbashing” seems more like it. Great work, love it.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

haha I've heard "Digital Kitbashing," too. Printbashing has a cool ring to it though. Thank you!!

[@obivankeno2068]

Look just like ME

[@RoseKindred]

Nice video. I have a noob question though. I have never really kitbashed in Blender yet, just make my own shapes, but how do you get them to... not sure of the word, "connect" into one solid piece, without all the inner vertices and faces going through each other creating non-manifold objects? For example, you put the visor over the eyes/face of the new model. Well, the visor just intersects with the face right? Even when using booleans I still see the points in x-ray mode. That little area would be able to clean up easily, but what if it is more complex? Subbed for this video, but gonna check out your others. I like what I seen so far.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Thank you! I haven't had any problems with this post printing when I print with 100% infill. If you're worried about the overlaps you can bring your model into a free program called "MeshMixer" and then select "Make Solid" in the edit tab. Then you just adjust the sliders until it looks right (you can also use the inspector tool in the "analysis" tab after to repair the model)! That will make sure everything is properly combined. BUT again with that said-- as long as things are overlapping, everything should be solid and one piece when printing. I really appreciate it!

[@RoseKindred]

@@iPaintSmallThings Thank you. I did not know "Make Solid" could clean up the insides. I have had issues in the past with printing terrain. It tries to print essentially 2 models at the same time, just overlapping, and the nozzle can behave... wonky. I'm not the best with technical terms. So printing faces/walls inside the model instead of just infill? Then again, free models from years ago so probably not optimized. Oh well. I'm gonna see if I can find the tower I had an issue with and try the make solid on it.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

@@RoseKindred It does the overlapping objects thing for me when I try to print on FDM printers-- but so far for me everything inside just becomes infill when printing 100% with resin! I typically will "make solid" when I'm trying to print something really big just to be safe and make sure to check using the layer slider in my slicer that everything looks ok! I hope that helps and works for you!

[@RoseKindred]

@@iPaintSmallThings It helps, thank you.

[@patryk9354]

make a bunch of scratches on the contact points, this will give superglue more things to grip on.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

That would help a lot. Thank you!

[@jblade8028]

you should pin his legs to the base. will never fall off and is very simple.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

That would definitely be a good idea! Especially on models that have small points of contact like this one. Thanks!

[@livanbard]

I do have a rip use baking soda to glue stuff that refuses to stick

[@iPaintSmallThings]

I'll have to try that! Thanks!

[@silverlight1204]

i cant seem to find this mech at 00:24 is it a patreon exclusive? would really appreciate some help finding it!!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

You may need to ask GearGuts where you can get one-- cuz I'm having a hard time finding it as well. I originally got it from TMC's patreon

[@silverlight1204]

@@iPaintSmallThings I appreciate you getting back to me and putting in the effort!! ill send him an email and see if we can work something out. happy new years btw!!

[@iPaintSmallThings]

@@silverlight1204 No problem!! Happy new year!!

[@fransionseamor9368]

Can you make a model that looks like something from the video game Franchise of Destiny?

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Probably! I've never played that game but their character designs are really cool.

[@fransionseamor9368]

@@iPaintSmallThings I know right, been thinking of doing some kitbash of that as a hobby; but since I’m just starting out I’ll probably have to start small before I get to that. But I am curious as to how others would tackle it though, hence why I asked

[@iPaintSmallThings]

@@fransionseamor9368 You for sure! I'd first start by trying to find a destiny helmet on Thingiverse and go from there! I'll add it to the list of kitbashes

[@blackmib]

Hot glue for me works better😊

[@iPaintSmallThings]

Oh I didn't think of that-- that's a good idea!

[@Vulture_princess]

Biomutant was weird and interesting. Would not call it good

[@iPaintSmallThings]

It had so much potential! It's too bad it didn't live up to the world they made

[@Jjgm69]

Biomutant, no, is not good, is not good in any mean.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

That's really too bad!

[@public.public]

It screams computer modelled louder than the figure form being modelled. You do know the fat form is designed to survive the fat fingers of kids throwing them around don't you? Where's the finesse in the construction of the machinery? It looks like an overcooked cartoon toy for kids.

[@iPaintSmallThings]

lmao I don't know how to respond to that. Thanks for commenting and for the laugh!

[@John_John1234]

3d printing is just cheating. haha

[@iPaintSmallThings]

haha gotta do what you gotta do