3D print modeling start-to-finish | January 2022 WHATS NEAT Model Railroad Hobbyist

mrhmag.com - Model Railroad Hobbyist roving reporter Ken Patterson's January What's Neat this month includes:
- 3D printed models, start-to-finish
- Jacksonville Terminal layout tour
... Plus lots of great runbys
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IMPORTANT NOTE: The MRH monthly What's Neat video is posted the 15th of each month. January 15 for January, February 15 for February, and so on.
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#mrhmag
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► See the full article and follow the discussion: forum.mrhmag.com/post/whats-n... (not available until late on January 15th)
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► THERE’S LOTS MORE:
Get even more how-tos for model railroading on the Model Railroad Hobbyist website. This video is just part of the FREE January 2022 issue of Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine. mrhmag.com
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[@1johnmcwilliams]

It is a joy to see Deny soo excited about running trains at his club! Well done.

[@dennyjelsma8017]

Ken the JTRM members thanks you so much showing rail fans our layout.

[@jackoesterlejr.3454]

Thanks for sharing! MoPac Jack

[@markushodel173]

Congrats to Denny. Very nice layout. Thanks to the JTRM members.

[@tabletop_railway]

The Jacksonville Terminal Museum layout was awesome, thank you Danny Jelsma and the other club members for showing us around.

[@donnisdavis2185]

Denny, thanks, the Jax club layout was grand!!!

[@jackoesterlejr.3454]

What an awesome show! The 3-d printers are just amazing! I didn't know all the work behind it! Thank You so much for this segment! The railroad club & museum with Mr. Denny Jelsma is just amazing! I'm lost for words! I was getting excited as much as him..maybe more! If you need railroad clothing & goodies it's Jelsma Graphics.." A Stitch Above The Rest" This Is "The Best Hobby In The World" Till Next Time! MoPac Jack Tell a friend & girls & women are always welcome! This Is Our Hobby! Embrace It & Love It! Rock N' Roll Forever.. Be Safe! I'm going to run some trains in my "Train Cave" Model Railroading Is Fun!

[@mels1811]

Wonderful video Ken Patterson

[@NicksCollectableCreations]

I intend to do a multi era layout as well. Glad to see someone else is doing this. Cool to see!

[@trainmaster9323]

Best hobby in the world !!

[@jazzlife1]

Ken thanks for sharing this video of Denny's club. Denny is my friend and Masonic brother. He's a good guy. We were members of another Model Railroad club here in Jacksonville. I haven't seen Denny in a while I'm going to reach out to him.

[@cprtrain]

Super video.

[@barryjgalbraith2635]

Greetings from UK . Thanks for a great video.

[@wamozart9573]

High Five, Ken!

[@JohnnySoundSTL]

Hi Ken... a fellow St. Louisan here. Love your show, been watching for many years. Obviously I'm a train afficiando, but regularly your several neato scoring themes back the transitions, intros and outros. I made my living in the music realm, composing, recording, performing and producing. Your brilliance as a modeler/photographer is visually apparent. Curious, did you create these MIDI tracks? I love hearing the different mixes you've offered recently. Great stuff, rockON!!! Go Blues, Go Birds, go Ken!

[@viticodaleguaya3377]

muy bueno como siempre Ken y feliz año para ti y todo tu equipo mi panita!!!

[@WVS-KFD]

Great show as usual. Thanks, Ken!

[@joerg810]

great show - please show us more of this layout

[@coffeebuzzard]

Nice! Thanks for the inspiration.

[@Apollo_Vanron]

Fantastic!

[@mels4796]

wonderful video

[@rjl110919581]

thank you for great video

[@ajkleipass]

Still no return of the N-scale layout? 😞 Boo!

[@stephengrybowski9573]

I think one important step was left out: creating or obtaining the files!

[@MRhobbyist]

As long as you wear gloves, protective glasses, that's often enough. If you're concerned about the fumes, then add a respirator. When it comes to disposing failed prints or anything with resin on it, set it out in the sun for a few hours, or put it into a UV light curing station indoors. Cured leftover resin is safe resin. And it's correct, handling uncured parts with bare hands is a no-no. Big boo-boo on the part of the one demoing this process -- we apologize for their slip up!

[@mikec2788]

3D resin printing really isn't that hard and, just like our great hobby, is a lot of fun and very rewarding. Being an N scaler there are a lot of detail parts I see in HO that I can't find in N scale. Being able to find or create my own parts and then print with great detail is very satisfying. Some details are so fine I can barely see them with the naked eye. The small details I've been able to print have changed how I create scenes and scratch build models. I've been able to print whole structures, train cars, and scenery items. Additionally, there are tons of non-hobby things you can print and different resins with different properties like being clear, being flexible, being super strong like ABS, and more. Check out Thingiverse for ideas and free prints (.STL files). Sure safety is a concern, and like anything else there is a learning curve, but once you get the hang of it the steps are very simple. I keep my printer in front of my spray booth and don't worry about a respirator. I've seen others build their own 3d booth with an external exhaust like a spray painting booth or even combine the two. The world that 3D printing opens up is truly worth the effort!

[@ericprint3576]

I use my anycubic for 009 wagons and coaches fdm printers just can't beat the detail on the rolling stock off the anycubic

[@TobiBrinkman]

If that's what it takes to 3D print, I never buy a 3D printer en of this kind. Video is very clear and contains good information.

[@edmundnadolski3588]

20:20 what did you do to achieve the chipped concrete effects on the portal edges?

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

Wow nice video you put together.Hope to see more.

[@scratchinjack608]

As an experienced 3D printing hobbyist, I am certainly concerned about fumes....not from the resin but from the isopropyl alcohol (91% or greater). If mixing with resin (during cleaning), I find the alcohol fumes weirdly stronger so yes, *ventilation* is important as I personally do not trust or like using "respirators". I did get resin on bare skin one time and it certainly is no fun removing it. I just go as far as the gloves and long sleeved shirt I don't care to keep. Protective eye protection is also advisable. Lab coat is more showy than of any real practical purpose. A ratty long sleeve tee shirt and a common work shop apron is fine. Resin printing is expensive but I prefer FDM printing on so many levels. Thanks for the video.

[@magnificus8581]

Wait, what kind of station? A warsh station? Sounds high tech! 😉

[@mike32277]

🤣😂

[@jackoesterlejr.3454]

🙂

[@markushodel173]

Ken, can you also show us how it works with the anycubic wash and cure equipment? It seems to be easier.

[@jamesregier8463]

The wash and cure is quite simple to use. The machines come in two sizes, corresponding to the two resin printer sizes. The first step is to add alcohol to the vat. The vat seals nicely with a rubber gasket so that you can easily store and reuse the alcohol for several projects. Depending on the volume of your print, you may either scrape the printed pieces off the print face and into a wire basket that you lower into the alcohol, or you can lower the entire print face into the alcohol, resting it on a wire frame on top of the vat. You need enough alcohol to cover your print, so if you use the wire frame to rest the print face in the cleaner container, you'll need to fill the entire vat with alcohol. With the printed parts in the alcohol, you make sure the system is set to "wash" with a button on the left side. Then, you set the time with a dial on the right side, usually 3-5 minutes. Press the dial to start the wash cycle and wait for it to complete. Immediately remove the print from the alcohol bath upon completion. If you are using the basket, you can set it so that the basket rests on some tabs toward the top of the container to allow the parts to drip dry. You can leave it for a few hours if you like without hurting anything. It just has to be dry before the cure step. After it dries, but before curing, go ahead and cut the supports form your model. The cure step hardens everything and makes the removal more complicated. Remove the vat from the cure station, set down the turntable plate, and place your printed objects onto the turntable plate. Set the station to "cure" mode, set the time -- usually about 5 minutes -- place the UV-blocking lid over the cure station, and start the process. It beeps when the process is complete.

[@usacitizen1000]

Interesting layout. Where is that club layout located? I had one indicator that placed it on road 206 between 95 and 1 south of St Augustine?? I thought it was a Jacksonville club? I would love to visit it sometime as I am building a layout in St Augustine. Brian railandsail

[@dennyjelsma8017]

The JTRM club layout is in south Jacksonville, Florida. Off Old St. Augustine road and Hood road just of I-295

[@dennyjelsma8017]

10576 Castlebrook Drive 32257

[@dennyjelsma8017]

Open on Fridays 10:00am till 6:00pm

[@christophercolt1361]

For J Fowler: If you feel the resin/3D Process requires the use of PPE: then surely there are HAZARDOUS WASTE REMOVAL by- products to be considered and that is EXPENSIVE!!!!! As it was in the Gun Blueing Industry so too this will follow for ruining the 3D prospects of existing! OR Do you just throw everything in your residential trash to wind up in local landfills so that it causes contamination(s) elsewhere which is a : As long as It's Not in my backyard attitude!

[@brucec954]

Once the resin (models or waste) is fully cured, it is inert and should be safe enough to put in the garbage. If it this were not the case then it would not be safe to use/touch the models either.

[@Jan-hx9rw]

Uncured resin IS considered hazardous waste, and a number of other youtubers and threads on Facebook resin printing groups bring this very topic up. Solutions containing uncured resin such as the used washing solutions, whether acetone, isopropyl alcohol, or water, need to be filtered to remove the resin whether through solidifying or curing the resin, evaporation of the solution, or some combination, or disposed of at a site that accepts such hazardous byproducts. The stuff will migrate into the groundwater unless it's cured and it won't cure unless ultraviolet light hits it for a long enough period. Once the resins are fully cured, it's generally considered that they aren't hazardous and all the waste can be disposed of in residential trash.

[@marblox9300]

If this is 3D printing - it looks like a lot of work - I'm glad i don't care about this. I just buy stuff that's all done.

[@daleroth236]

Fix the sound - could only hear off of what you were saying. And I am wearing headphones.

[@jasongaret7482]

So the full chemist approach I think is misleading. Yes, resin printing is harmful to your skin, lungs, etc. However, so is paints, modeling glue, and so much more that we use in the hobby. The video was great but I think it’s going to turn people away that might have been interested in it, just for the fact that he looked like Walter White. The other thing that I thought was ironic is he took his PPE seriously up until the curing stage when we used his bare hands. Don’t do that. Use gloves. Uncured resin is bad.

[@Hanzo.Azmodan]

Exactly about handling the uncured resin with bare hands especially after all his Doctor Doom kit previously. I use an Elegoo Mars 2 and and Elegoo Mercury Plus cleaning / curing station and get my prints done in very little time in comparison. Yes, I wear a mask and safety glasses as well as gloves but the full mad-scientist outfit is going somewhat overboard... Is he seriously trying to put people off getting resin printers?

[@Jan-hx9rw]

I've seen enough photos from people who got uncured resin on bare skin and had blisters and worse from chemical reactions to the resin, burns from the exothermic reaction that occurs as the resin cures in sunlight, and issues from getting uncured resin under their skin through inadvertent pinprick punctures while removing the supports from their models prior to the curing process to convince me that full PPE all the way through the post-washing phase - even with the Elegoo Mercury Plus - is worth the hassle. I also use safety goggles and nitrile gloves while handling the models and removing any final bits of supports from the washed models because I've had bits of the broken-off supports go zinging around. And it's not immediately apparent to many people exactly how quickly cross-contamination of surfaces with liquid resin can occur. It certainly surprised (and frustrated) me until I took a very mindful approach to the printing process. 3D printing with Filament printers is far more forgiving than resin in terms of handling the materials and printed parts. Let's not forget that even when fully cured, nitrile gloves, safety goggles, and at the minimum a dust mask have long been recommended for sanding any resin parts, whether photopolymer resin or more traditional resin models. Wearing nitrile gloves while handling any model prior to painting has also been a recommended practice to prevent skin oils from contaminating the model's surface as well.

[@ckain5501]

I have on finding the files are slim

[@magnificus8581]

In all seriousness, I respect his process, but his protection is excessive. Resin printing does not necessarily require a lab coat, face protection, etc. I am not saying he is doing anything wrong, it is just . . . not how most modelers use their machines. I encourage all interested in getting a 3D printer to watch other KZbinrs and see how others operate theirs. It is not always such an oppressive approach.

[@mijnbetsy]

All i can hear is that dam steem engin, The layout looks great, realy goed work, I stopt watching because of the noise.

[@mike32277]

You really should turn your spell check on. 😁 If it was to noisy, most people use the mute.

[@mijnbetsy]

Guys, turn down the sound of your machiens, it is very disturbing en not narural. ik can hardley hera you talk.