3D Printed Motorcycle Intrument Panel - Fixing the Elefant - Episode #15

[@luddite6239]

I'm really impressed with your use of 3D printing to create your custom components. That light cluster looks completely factory. 👍

[@kihestad]

Glad to hear that 🤩🤩🤩 That's what I am hoping to achieve. The goal is to make it look like it could have been original, it will be even better with some sanding and painting. I have also ordered some better filament for the final prints 😊

[@luddite6239]

@@kihestad Keep up the great work.

[@kevingraczyk7212]

​@@kihestadI really love my spectrum ASA-X CF10 Matte finish and even without sanding/painting it looks really good after some tweaks.

[@redrockroger]

Fantastic design and execution. Love your videos.

[@kihestad]

Thanks again, glad you're following along with the project 🙏😊

[@jasondunn8313]

Great job mate. I find the whole 3D printing process interesting 👍

[@kihestad]

Glad to hear that, it's fun doing it as well 😁

[@lucaschapman93]

Great job on the build, I recently stumbled across your channel and I’ve watched all your episodes from the elefant over the past week. Keep making these videos in the future!!!!

[@kihestad]

Welcome to my channel 🙏 I have no other plan than continue making videos. I have a lot of other interesting projects as well whenever (or if? 🤔) my Cagiva project is finished 😊

[@DavidEduardoCortelezzi]

Love it how this is going!! A few tips: - For version 2, I would recommend you to use the T5 Wedge style LED bulb and the socket so in the future if a bulb dies, it will be a matter of replacing the bulb and not having to unsolder stuff. There are also 12v led for this type as well. - For the printer, get a PEI sheet. It's a cheap upgrade and the prints sticks so much more to the bed than glass or the original Ender bedsheet. I have the same printer and used both bed surfaces - And for leveling, I use the feeler gauge technique instead of the paper one. It got me better results

[@kihestad]

Thanks for all the tips 🙏 will investigate the T5 style LED's 😊

[@gregarnott3856]

Brilliant, thank you. Enjoy your trip mate.

[@kihestad]

Thanks 🙏👍

[@midnightc0mmander]

Disn’t see the Time pass, really nice épisode Ki. You are an inspiration :)

[@kihestad]

Thank you so much! 🙏

[@dermaysi]

This is a pretty cool Project! I would maybe set a manual potentiometer or an automatic photosensor to Ground, so the LEDs should be at Night darker as at Daytime.

[@kihestad]

Thanks 😊 It's a good idea, a bit more challenging than just adding a pot though. Three bulbs have +12V as common lead (lights up when the sensor they are attached to connects to ground), the rest has ground as common lead 🤔

[@MrCaprinut]

I did not think I would like it, but I did like the end results very much! Greetings from Sørlandet 🙂

[@kihestad]

I really hope it will look like it could have been the original solution when I am all done 🤞 Time will tell 😊 Hilser tilbake fra Vestlandet!

[@zaprodk]

LEDs are current-driven devices, not voltage-driven, so if you'd use a common resistor for all the LEDs they wouod have to share the current. That means that the number of LEDs on will affect the brightness. One led would be bright, 2 leds would be dimmer, 3 LEDs even dimmer etc.

[@kihestad]

Alright, in that case my solution was not that stupid after all 😁 just luck ... 😅

[@DanialADHOfficial]

next we need digital intrument cluster, direct to the bike computer or using GPS

[@kihestad]

@@DanialADHOfficial Yes 👍 I have a lot of ideas on how to do that. One of my most exciting winter projects is to make an open source universal motorcycle microcontroller 😁

[@thaifoodtakeaway]

If you intend to go down the PCB route for the LEDs, you can also make one to replace the symbol plate. You can use Black solder mask with openings where you have the symbols, you can adjust the thickness to get the suitable level of light diffusion, but I believe that a 0.8 or 1mm FR4 PCB would be quite nice, and have a much nicer finish compared to a 3D print from the outside. If you need any help, get in touch, I will be happy to help.

[@kihestad]

Those are some very good tips 🙏 Thanks a lot, I'll keep it in mind!

[@pthm_]

You noted that the high beam indicator was quite dim. I thought the same on my own instrument cluster and replaced it only to then be blinded by the indicator bulb when riding at night when the high beam was needed.

[@kihestad]

Yes, I did wonder about it 🤔 it's probably done for a reason 😝

[@wobblysauce]

Yes to be at night and not an intrusion. Can sand the LEDs to make them more of a glow than the bright direct light source.

[@kihestad]

@@wobblysauce hey, that was a very good trick 👍👍 I definitely don't need them to act like a flash light bulb, making them matte to spread the light beam makes sense!

[@jmileshc]

Interesting design process and build. I like your aesthetic look. Might it be worth adding a lights-on, night time dimming so they don't dazzle?

[@kihestad]

That is actually a very good idea 💡 It for sure bright enough as it is now 😎

[@offroadistheway]

Great Mod! And a beatutiful bike! I have learned a few new things watching this that I'll use on my Peugeot 205 & my T7! 🙌 Just a quick question, what kind of wires did you use? And if possible were you got them from just so I can try to find something similiar over here :)

[@kihestad]

I found them on eBay, it's 20AWG = 0.5mm2 tinned cables. They are fine for small LEDs and electronis projects, but too thin for regular 12V cables for s motorcycle. Bought them from this seller: www.ebay.com/str/wyqq001?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7mgpdfohqx6&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=2-j3tV5vS2e&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[@elm-neo]

Print the "channel" for the cable out in TPU so that it can also act as a strain release for the cables.

[@kihestad]

That's a very good idea, why did I not think of that 🥴😝

[@elm-neo]

@@kihestad I am converting some of my ABS prints to TPU. They provide amazing versatility. They even make good shock-absorbing mounts for hardware on your motorcycle. In places where you use rubber mounts, you could use TPU. Obviously, they can't handle high temperatures, but otherwise very useful.

[@chris-s]

You know that PLA does not do well with outside environment? It does not like sun and heat (you get heat from your engine benith) 😊 but its a niceeeee setup

[@kihestad]

Yes, I normally use PETG on parts for the motorcycle. I will probably 3D print all of it using a better filament later when I have got to test it for a while.

[@leslieaustin151]

Very impressive. Your electronics look fine to me - that way of joining everything (in amateur radio circles) is called “dead bug construction” and it generally works very well and with good reliability - sometimes better than PCB construction. I’m wondering if the whole unit is sufficiently weather-proofed though. Looking forward to the report on your trip, I hope it went well! Les in UK 🇬🇧

[@kihestad]

Aha, I did not know it had a name to it 😊 I do think it will be water resistant using the waterproof glue, but I will have to keep an eye on it. There are a lot of custom made stuff on this bike now, It would not surprise me if some of it has to be improved in some way 😊

[@TheGameIsFunny]

Great video mate, PLA isn't waterproof tho, you could sand it and cover it with some bondo/car body spray/waterproof coating to make it so. Remember some PLA is also sensibile to uv and athmospheric agents making it brittle e fragile

[@TheGameIsFunny]

Sanding priming and painting it would protect it very well and give it a nice surface finish. You could also think about a custom paint job

[@kihestad]

Yes, the plan is to sand/paint when I do the final print 👍

[@krazed0451]

High fill primer (also known as putty primer) is your friend for a nice finish ;-)

[@teutonman7018]

Good job! Dust and water?

[@kihestad]

It will be water proof when gluing on the glass, and I might add a thin seal (3D printed flexible filament) on the bottom if needed, but I doubt any dust will get into the box from the bottom and up

[@arpag]

You could add a potentiometer so that you can adjust the brightness during the day or night.

[@kihestad]

Yes, that's a very good idea. I have been mostly afraid of the warning indicators not being bright enough, typically when riding in strong sunlight 🌞 Now I might have a problem they are too bright when driving at the eavning 😝

[@coldmetalcouk]

good job, one comment having made the mistake using PLA (I assumed it was pla) in an outdoor / UV setting as on a bike you'll get warping in bright sunlight (happens quite quickly) use Polycarbonate/ASA or PETG.

[@kihestad]

Yes, I normally use PETG for mc/outdoor use, this time I would try PLA and plan to sand and paint it. I don’t think it’s easy to get paint to stick on PETG and ABS, thats the reason for PLA this time. Time will show if painted PLA is good enough 🤞

[@coldmetalcouk]

@@kihestad good luck :)

[@coldmetalcouk]

just fyi you can sand and prime PETG prior to painting it should work well.

[@kihestad]

@@coldmetalcouk I have tried to find information about it, ex what kind of primer is best to use. I have got the impression that PETG is not suitable to be either glued or painted because the properties of plastic makes it 'slippery', similar to ABS.

[@coldmetalcouk]

@@kihestad this link gives some example primers I've used specific ones that are probably only UK based but called plastic primers all3dp.com/2/best-paint-for-plastic-pla-abs-petg-nylon/

[@loskeyler1]

Det ser veldig bra ut, gratulerer. Bare husk at mange motorsykler aktiverer neutralsignalet med jørd o positive rett fra ignition

[@kihestad]

Takk takk 🙏 ja, det er sånn på denne også: +12V går rett fra tenningslåsen til N-lampa, minus går til bryter inni motoren. Samme med batteri- og olje varsellampa, disse er derfor koblet ulikt fra resten.

Yes a PCB would be better. (5 boards are less than 10 $ on Chinese websites + shipping. Kicad Work really well for PCB design ) And an automotive connector instead of a direct cable output would have been better. (help to replace the cable easily if damaged or have different cables for different bikes) But a prototype board would have help too. With one common Ground line in the middle and signals on the sides. But more importantly no "floating" resistors in the middle.

[@kihestad]

I totally agree! I have made one PCB, and I used Kicad. Got it from JLCPCB, and it just looks awesome 🤩

​@@kihestad I made a card for a old force feedback stick controller. 10$ for 10 cards 20$ fast shipping minus 10$ for the first order. Black board finish with white printing, just perfect. But, I might add, that if you can source the exacts resistors values for the LED. You can design it with nearly CMS components only (resistors and LED) and order the board nearly fully assembled. The only components to solder manually is a pass thru connector to connect the wires. (or solder the wires directly to the board) CMS LED can be chained to get more surface/brightness. Some cans also be soldered by hand. You just have to avoid to put components on the separators walls (you could insert holes in the PCB to fix the 3d printed grid) As they offers really good 2 sides PCB, you can have only the LEDs on one side and all resistors on the other side.

[@kihestad]

That is a superb plan 🙏👍

[@brentbauer8258]

I’m going to guess you are an engineer.

[@kihestad]

I am somewhat of a mixed bag 😜 I am partially a software engineer and I did study computer science the last years at the university. In addition to that, I also studied within these fields: economics, business organization and media. I am also a qualified teacher at high school / university level 😊 Why just learn or be one thing? 😜

[@kurtmiller7945]

Hmmmmm.....This video is from today i guess? So then, your SUMMER Road trip is gone by yesterday....Today is the first day of meteorological AUTUMN....So you maybe change your intro again....? 🤣🤣🤣Only a joke mate, you hopefully know that from my side..cheers

[@kihestad]

I have extended the summer, including September this year 😅🤣 perhaps your suggestion is better, adjusting the intro is definitely needed again... 😝

[@joakimjocka8022]

get a Bambu lab printer, you will save yourself the trouble of having to always troubleshoot and moniter your prints

[@Sodwmistis]

if you setup your printer good you dont need to give 4 times more money for printer.

[@kihestad]

The Bambu printers look good, but a bit expensive 😬 Probably worth it though. Would love to get a better 3D printer, especially a bigger one is on my wish list. My Ender 3 Pro is heavily upgraded though, a decent 32 bit motherboard makes the prints quite Ok when it's dialed in, but of course a new one would have been at a whole new level 😞

[@zaprodk]

Light bulb? Just noooo. Also they are not rated in voltage, but current :)

[@kihestad]

@@zaprodk Okay 👍 Glad we got that sorted 😅