Great video. Through and precise. Nice!

If you did not paint. You just invited more rust.

Very good I should have paid attention to the fabricators I grew up with thank you for the video

I am totally late here. Just wanted to add that using tie down straps on both sides of the motorcycle handle will make the bike more stable. Get a scissor jack for lifting under the engine when working on the rear wheel assembly. Mustie1 use one and it looks really handy

Very nice video. Chapters would be nice.

I'm not sure if you will make another build series. Hopefully you do.

Fantastiskt arbete! Längtar till nästa uppdatering, finns det inte nått i/o kort för usb som kan visas i tabletten för indikering, hastighet och varvtal?

Give a call to Thomas to inform him that your summer is not this year but maybe the next one… 😂

Outstanding problem solving skills, you just get on and do it.

Nice progress. I would advise painting the white 3D printed bungs you use to fill the holes on the side of the Elefant. These will turn yellow and degrade with UV light quite quickly.

What a handsome machine the Elefant is! I'm surprised it took Ducati over 30 years to bring out something similar in the Desert X. I like your use of 3D printing - very ingenious! Very neat work with the throttle cables. Once you have the engine running again, you might want to check your carb synchronisation to make sure they both open simultaneously with the new cables.

Can we also (one more time) just appreciate how amazingly well the 1987/88 Elephant was originally put together? Almost 40 (!) years later it is truly amazing to see how flexible and pliable this entire beast of a machine still is, on top of it being completely analog and still (basically) running like a charm! It's actually pretty ridiculous! Also the accessibility of all the various components is super rare, folks who have been toiling away at modern bikes should know. You would be hard pressed to find a more immortal piece of machinery imho... Maybe only the '92 Africa Twin (aka Adam Riemman's 'Warhorse') comes close to this amazing bike in terms of durability and beauty. Keep filming!

I agree with @leslieaustin151, i have always the same problem, BUT: between all this modifications, i´m driving my Bike. This brings me to the question, is Thomas back from his summer tour ?🤣 Maybe, with your tourdate, you should go back to spring.....if you know what i mean...and i know, you know what i mean🤣 Just joking mate, i think, the most of the guys looking your channel, have the same problem, so as i🤣

Interesting. I would get the smallest TrailTech dashboard. They also make a bracket for it with indicator lights. That could probably fit on the handlebar, leaving you a good bit of space for the tablet in the fairing. Hei fra Danmark 🙂

In the UK we call those wire correctors "chocolate blocks" - remarkably similar!. Venhill sell kits for making cables, with various different ends, etc. Can be useful for obscure cables or when a longer or shorter cable is required (or in the case of a Honda NS125F I worked on - where all the available choke cables have the wrong fitment!). I would be tempted to modify where your 2 throttle cables join - to eliminate the screw and make the join smoother - the last thing you want is the screw to catch on the inside of the housing and hold the throttle on. If you need a splitter then one can be salvaged from a scrap throttle cable from a 2 stroke bike (where they split for the throttle and oil pump)

4:29..THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS😀..Det blir akkuratt som å pusse opp huset..dukker opp masse rare ting underveis..interessant KZbin kanal..stå på.👍

You can get 12mm shrink tube. Great idea for the splitter, but by removing the barrel adjusters you no longer have an easy way of adjusting the cable tension.

Enjoying watching. Your innovative improvements to the original Cagiva are a testiment to your attention to detail. Looking forward to seeing the modern Tablet fixed to a new dashboard. Hope you are able to devise a secure fixing solution that ensures no one is tempted to steal it :(. Looking forward to the next video

Great creativity, well done. However, I highly recommend coming up with a creative solution for ensuring that the little electric wire screw is not the only thing holding your engine throttle control together. This diy solution needs a diy failsafe..

personally i wouldnt mess with the original trottle assembly, stuck throttle is not a pleasant thing. it can work at the moment but.. also, did painted surfaces resist the brake fluid? they often dont. i like your vids though, thanks, good luck !

Great work. For sure, any project is NEVER finished. The more you do the more you need to change along the way. The more nearly you get it “right”, the more of your older work you need to re-do to match. (Sigh). You don’t need to ask me how I know.. Les in UK 🇬🇧

It has to be said, the Cagier has never been in safer hands. The amount of details and work you have put on this bike should grant you a free plane ticket to go see the old Ducati factory 🙌🏻 The level of OCD on the throttle cable. Absolutely love it. Can't wait to see how well the tablet work, as an old Garmin guy it is hard to try new systems, but it will try a tablet system this year as well. Amazing work once again my friend. 🙌🏻 Keep it up.

24 years ago I worked as a suspension tech (averaged about 6 forks a day and a couple shocks) ~ I've lost the fine details, but here are the broad strokes: The fresher fork oil in one leg was almost certainly due to having a fork seal replaced. Given the dust boots, you should NOT have a lot of fork seal issues but pull them up and feel the chrome tubes for Any kind of ding ~ that's what chews up fork seals. You can sand them down with some fine emory cloth (like honing a cylinder, 220~300 is fine), just do it in a cross-hatch pattern. Dried bug guts can do the same damage. I'm really not a fan of oil changes like you did because there's a sludge left behind. You could have Sort of addressed it by filling the fork legs with cleaner and working them a few dozen times, draining, allowing to dry, and refilling. That'd get you about 80% of the way to fully cleaned internals. But not checking the inner and outer bushings in the forks, especially on an older bike, just seems like asking for trouble down the road. Your forks are probably unobtainium now, you're not going to be able to replace them if damaged... over a few dollars in parts and an hour of time if the bushings are done and start allowing advanced wear. Not urgent as in don't ride, but a project for when you Can't go out and ride. As for moving the fork legs with new oil, that's for those who measure fork oil Height instead of Volume (more precise, gives you the ability to more accurately adjust the air spring by adding/removing oil). It's just part of fork tuning, though it looks like you have a schrader valve that allows the same tuning. The first time you ride the bike the oil will be where it needs to be. As a side note, I happened to notice that there are cartridge kits for the forks in that Elefant. They will be a HUGE improvement in function. Something to add to a "wish list" for the future once you get to using the bike (along with an upgraded rear shock, something that can be rebuilt and offers rebound and compression damping).

How about scrambler build? Do you have a vid how t build one ??

If you have all that stuff for zinc plating, is there any reason why you did not use electrolysis to remove the rust? It would only be one extra tub of liquid.

Hi! I have been following your videos on the CB400 for a while after I bought my own CB400 many years ago to do a similar project. I have never undertaken anything like this before and I would like to say your videos are a huge inspiration to me! I also have the brat/scrambler style in mind and I am going to base my project on a lot that you have done. To me your thought process, design iterations and fabrication explanations are beyond excellent and I only hope to follow in your great work! From one CB400 brat/scrambler owner here in the UK! Thank you for all your amazing work! I cant wait to see it all finished!

Your mud-gaurd mod is fantastic.

I really enjoy your videos. 😁👌 What software are you using to customize the 3D printed bins? Thinking about the bins for the pliers 😊

First cagiva I’ve seen. Had to look it up. Really cool bike and fantastic 80s/90s style 😊

I thought the principles were good rule of thumb. Now when I see a design not working I can better identify why

Good job! Maybe i will se this in town som day. I have a old suzuki that i want to make in to a cafe racer. But i dont have time. So the bike just stands collecting dust 🙈

good idea most lifts have stupid size wheels and if like most of use we are limited to workshop space being easy to move the table out of the way is great , dont know about putting the lift up against a wall as my lift always has a bike on it , either for work or storage

09:48 - Not sure I'd be using stainless bolts for my brake disc - do you know the strength of the bolts? Some stainless if pretty soft (weak)... Personally I get Pro-Bolt Ti bolts that are designed for the job :)

Looking good! As the owner of a 13 year-old Ducati Monster, I'm a big fan of the old air-cooled Ducati/Cagiva v-twin motor. So it's great to see you keeping this classic model on the road.

Nice :) looking good. Are you going for a restomod ? ( with the digital stuff )

SPRING is long gone, and so probably Thomas for his ride aswell, so, it had to change to SUMMER 🤣

Great video series. I would not trust those Cap nuts on the pinch clamp on the front axle. I would go with a nylock nut

The level of details in this video, and all your videos is just insane. I'm sitting clued to my chair and try to suck it all up and learn as much as possible. Really liked the new design of the front fender. Love that you take good care of this old classic, and I really can't wait for us to go on the trip. 👏🏻

The conversation with yourself was like watching my internal dialog lol. So well done.

I didn't know about these design princeples, but I'm very happy that I do now. Thank you for sharing. I just purchased a 1976 CB550 Four Supersport that has already had some work done to it and I would like to change it. Luckily, I know exactly what to fix now! I love that motorcycle lift you have, did you buy this or make it?

Hang on... When did that intro start saying "Summer"? 😉 Looking good, but just be careful with that front disc, I saw you paint the mounting surfaces on the hub, so check it's still running true, those were machined faces. If you get a bit of judder, you might have to revisit and clean the paint off.

Loving the videos! I like the attention to detail, aiming for a high standard, ensuring you have a nice work space and proper tools. I wouldn't mind seeing another oddball motorcycle getting similar treatment in the future. Hopefully it is one another oldie, but goldie. Having said that, I wouldn't mind if it was something else too. Keep it up! :)

Think those “wrong” new pads were the ones for the rear. FA134 are the ones for the front of my early Aprilia which looks like it shares the caliper with the rear of your bike. Over the years, on bikes I have had 3 rubber brake lines fail. All 3 were the original rubber lines on Cagivas!

Hi. Using stainless steel bolts in aluminum structures can be problematic due to a phenomenon known as galvanic corrosion. Galvanic Corrosio occurs when two different metals are in electrical contact in the presence of an electrolyte (e.g., water, especially saltwater). The more anodic metal (aluminum in this case) corrodes faster than it would alone, while the more cathodic metal (stainless steel) corrodes slower. This then make the aluminium to corrode quite hard and you can loose structural strenght in the threads. Howewer by sealing the threads with Loctite that should help alot. Thanks for a great video. Greetings from Norway

I don't know how much of a coating Loctite gives the SS screw, but you should replace the washer closest to the aluminium with a plastic one to avoid galling on the outside. And you might have to drill those screws out when it's time to replace the disc.