3D Printed TPU Bumpers for Dump Trailer Box

[@nikkolaus]

I'm a little surprised that you stuck with a cylindrical shape, even after saying you weren't constrained to original part dimensions and materials. Kinda figured you'd spread the surface area out more and go with a triangular wide-corner shaped bumper, and take up all the space where the corner of the box comes down.

[@DustyWall]

I'm guessing that because of the compression involved, a circular bump stop has even load all around, whereas a shape that isn't radially symmetrical would have uneven compression load and wear.

[@wbegg1]

I love your channel! It's great to see people 3D printing useful things, instead of Baby Yodas and Benchies.

[@haydenc2742]

I print bottle cap buddies...my kids love em!

[@lroyson]

Nice part. I thought you might make it a triangle shape to give it more surface area to hold the weight.

[@DaveEtchells]

GREAT tip about layer-dependent infill for progressive stiffness! This was one of those rare videos where you learn something fundamental, that opens up a whole new capability that has utility in all manner of use cases. Thanks!

[@tehhamstah]

I recently needed to make a change to a gaming joystick and started by trying to make an exact copy of the joystick handle that the manufacturer made. When I realised I should actually start from scratch and make the design my own, it really opened up what I could do with it, and I ended up making a design I was much happier with.

[@IgnusFast]

Love the progressive stiffness! Fantastic job...

[@EZ_shop]

I thought you were going to make it triangular, same size as the gusset, and spread the load even more. Ciao, Marco.

[@hargrove_here]

I'm rather pleasantly surprised about the durability of TPU. I want to start using it more, I've just gotten so used to how fast pla prints I rarely use anything else... Patience is a virtue.

[@dwp6x9e42]

I think I would have changed the shape to a triangle with round corners to maximize the surface area. I would also consider an abs shell that goes up to the top of the bolt, but not sure if that would hold up.

[@EDesigns_FL]

TPU is extremely hygroscopic and the issues that you experienced indicate your filament is saturated. I live in South Florida and the humidity is so high that I have to print TPU directly from a dehydrator. Telltale indicators of moisture absorption are rough surface and stringing, and it doesn't take much to cause problems. Water turns to steam when it goes through the extruder which causes voids in the filament.

[@MrShaneSunshine]

Tpu is my favorite! Dryers make a big difference in print quality.

[@schraubenschussel]

Learned a valuable lession regarding the use of bambustudio and designing progressive damper pieces. Thank you!

[@OakesProject]

Good work working the problem. Always interesting content!

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Thanks!

[@barbicantomato6284]

Great solution; the promise of a self made 3D printed part being better than OEM part is compelling. Hoping you'd paint those upper bolt head rub marks as a future indicator mark of expected performance.

[@haydenc2742]

How well does TPU layer lines stay stuck together after repeated compression/tension cycles... Waiting for a followup to see how well they are holding up! Keep em coming!!!!

[@jimdaniels71]

Next up is a clip that keeps that support rod from clanging around on the frame!

[@GlennBrockett]

Just found your channel a couple of videos earlier. I also enjoy design/printing functional solutions. I am getting into replicating parts from technical drawings using CAD to trace the image, but from measurements is the best way for me. I'm hoping you can keep finding problems to solve with your printer. I know I run out sometimes.

[@joell439]

Thanks for all the details

[@mkegadgets4380]

I think I would’ve used the hockey puck. I have hockey pucks under all my machine tools in my shop. It stops him from rusting the floor. And it also vibration damper when you hammer on something. Great video look forward to next next one.

[@Roobotics]

I would be tempted to add extra bumpers, right above where each spring-strut actually connects to the chassis, or maybe more conservatively, just between where the two wheels are.

[@yagoa]

you don't need height range modifiers, just use "adaptive cubic" infill

[@jairo.cabello]

This might be a perfect use case for proggresive bupstops for motorsports application.

[@gagos247]

Great video mate. Thank you, at last another great New reason to watch KZbin. I wonder if that height feature is in cura.

[@chriswisneski6071]

Great tech! Thanks

[@Karmablock]

I wish we could get a TPU profile or setting from you. For some reason both of my printers didn’t have TPU as a filament choice in Orca Slicer. I had to access Orca's hidden files on my computer and manually change logs.

[@zivhalperson614]

I would build the dampers in a triangular shape in the size of the pad under to have a larger surface area that will take the load off the part.

[@sypernova6969]

hey man! nice job., be carefull about hte number of walls. I had inter-layer adhesiion issues when I went to 1-2 walls. as they flex, the layers might wantot rip from one another. there are also different infill that are much more able to squish, like gyroid, or, on cura, the "cross" one. i think that having the line patterns but with one direction only PER layer might give it more squish.

[@olmosbananas]

i also thought you were going to go with a triangle shape outside the donut, to maximize the area supported on the trailer

[@Chris-14all]

Good solution! How about the back side/ hinge ? Did you solve it too ? I think a rubber layer would help to take the load from the hing too.

[@MrRitzyVlogs]

I wonder if the original bump stops were the right size then as they dry rotted and got deformed if they expanded to too wide.

[@TheSimonarne]

a high infill cap ontop of the bolt would make it wear less if it ever would touch

[@Rok_Satanas]

would be interesting to add a middle stiff core, for the bolt tightening, either with abs or a metal insert.

[@TheGlitchyCorgi]

Dry your TPU. It's not as bad about moisture absorption as PETG, but that stringing is a major sign it was damp.

[@berlinberlin4246]

Do you forgot to paint the upper part with the dent form the bolt head?

[@crashkg]

DId you countersink the head of the bolt lower as well? Seems like a design flaw that the head of the bolt is up so high.

[@andyshap]

You could have just removed the front wood part and gotten another two feet of clearance! LOVE the channel!

[@ethanchosdad-xh9ih]

Did you consider using gyroid infill? Might squish differently vs grid.

[@neilmaccubbin844]

Are they mounting plates welded solid on the side we can't see? They look like they are just tacked on the visual side.

[@Todestelzer]

Try our Varioshore TPU. You can print it stiff or very soft depending on the extrusion temperature. With 250c and extrusion multiplier 0.8 it’s very soft.

[@FunctionalPrintFriday]

Want to send me some to test?

[@dmolnar]

Is that FreeCAD you are using to mock up part?

[@michaelgleason4791]

Can't you just use PLA for support material when printing TPU?

[@philcarpenter]

What software are we using here? TinkerCAD?

[@DavidCousins]

Should have explored a triangular shape.

[@CrudelyMade]

Instead of a round bumper why not make it triangular and have more surface area which in theory would be good as a bumper zone.

[@HappinessInSeconds]

Why not use the whole triangular space instead of just a donut. Then you'll have much less PSI at any given point.

[@wbegg1]

Use a hockey puck.