3D Printer Setup - Monoprice Select Mini - First Print

[@jthusany]

You have the voice to make professional training videos. Good job and Thank You!

[@ProfessorOzone]

I'm fixing this machine for a friend and wanted to print something out real quick to make sure it works. This guide was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for posting it.

[@TechnologistAtWork]

I like it when the KZbinr gets straight to point and knows his shit. Great job, man. A lot of idiots should learn from this video on how to make a proper tutorial.

[@PepperPhoenix]

Thank you so much for this video. I recently acquired a 2nd hand mini v1. The manual was included but I’m more of a visual learner so having a video to follow was much easier than trying to wade through the instructions. My printer is now happily whirring along printing out a very simple model I picked up online. You are now my 3rd favourite person! (Sorry, but my husband and daughter still rank above you, but only barely!)

[@curiosity2314]

Excellent video! Just received the V2 and was looking for a good video series on how to get started. I've just found it. Subscribed! Thanks for all the hard work into these videos.

[@erickmanuel7852]

pro trick: you can watch series at flixzone. Been using it for watching lots of of movies during the lockdown.

[@zaidimran7188]

@Erick Manuel Yea, been watching on flixzone} for years myself :D

[@roccoleland891]

@Erick Manuel Yea, I've been using flixzone} for years myself =)

[@1FishinAddict]

For print bed, try 2 magnet sheets for business card (8x11sheet-cut to size of your bed). First sheet glue it to the bed, use the 2nd sheet to print on and its easily removed then popped the printed part off.

[@007lantze]

I'm new to the enter 3d printing scene it was a good vid helped me out allot but I do have one question how would you transfer the STL file say from thingiverse into the g code for the printer?

[@DaveWirth]

You need what's called a slicer program. Drag the .STL part into the program then export to GCode. Lots of people use CURA either version 15.xxxx or 2.3. I recommend starting with version 15.. because it's simple and just the bare bones, once you learn all the settings on there then you can try version 2.3 and really get into all the finer details. There are other programs called Slic3r and Simplify3D. Simplify3D is not free ($150) and also very detailed. But produces sometimes better prints. I feel like half of 3d printing is messing with the hardware and half is messing with the slicer settings.

[@aydenfoster1442]

You have to have a slicer program.I like cura but you can use anyone you want.

[@plasmaproductions2637]

This video was really helpful, I’m twelve and i just started 3D printing and ive been having a few issues with my printer but now i have none

[@PerspectivEs]

By your profile picture, we can tell you're 12.

[@ak_fx]

Same I'm thirteen and just started 3d printing, i also learnt 3d modeling. Which printer did you get.

[@ak_fx]

Also I just realized this comment is 2 years old...

[@macwhite448]

even though this looks like it was filmed in 2003, it's probably one of the best guides on youtube I've seen in a while.

[@teamspeed16]

haha jeez the sushi has gone baddddd

[@barryjohnson3684]

Mac White hi

[@malikalonazi2411]

😂 Trust me you possessed

[@electronron1]

Good video, thanks. Here's what I have been doing to get good prints. PLA on blue painters tape: Un-heated Bed Wipe down the print bed with rubbing alcohol real good before each print. ABS on blue painters tape: Sand the tape with 120 grit sand paper and wipe down the print bed with rubbing alcohol. Heated bed 70°C. Some people have been successful with an un-heated bed. Brim set to 20. PLA on glass: Glass coated with hair spray (6 or 7 light coats or 2 to 3 heavy coats). Rubbing alcohol again before printing but make sure to use a lint free cloth, the hair spray gets very sticky. Heated bed 50°C to 60°C. ABS on glass: Heated print bed, I set the print bed to 70°C in Cura then once the hot end starts heating I use the WIFI browser connection to raise it to 90°C.(I added fiberglass insulation under the print bed to help it reach this temperature) Rubbing alcohol again. Brim set to 20. For large objects with ABS I made an enclosure with foamcore and a plexiglass window. I have a section cutout in the front just below the print bed level to reach the controls and get a little cool air to the electronics. I added a cooling fan on the left side of the printer using the 2 piece side panel I printed that can be found on thingiverse. The area above the print bed maintains a temperature of 40°C which prevents layer separation. Using a Brim is becoming my standard way to do larger prints. If I see the brim start to lift up I will pause the print and tape it down. Speaking of pausing the print the G code to to pause a print with this printer is M600, I edit the G code to insert a line with M600 before the layer where I want to change the filament color. I use Cura's layer view to find the layer number where I want to change and use notepad 2 to edit the code.. Thanks again for posting this video.

[@blogJM]

have u tried tpu on this thing?

[@csmatthew]

just bought one, and I am excited with it as my first printer. Glad to hear yours sings like mine, I was kind of worried (and more than a little confused).

[@emibulls]

Nice vid Dave. Quick bit of advice: I would definitely recommend swapping out the painters tape for some kapton tape. Since I make the switch I haven't needed to use glue (for pla prints) and one application will get you through a bunch of prints. You can find it on ebay for less then 10 bucks. Happy printing!

[@DaveWirth]

I've been printing on a sheet of PEI after someone suggested it, that's been great too. I also love the no tape or glue cleanup. For ABS though i still have to use gluestick on glass.

[@valveman12]

Once you have the printer Homed, you can shut off the power and check you bed calibration in all corners. You do not have to have the printer on for bed calibration because the head is supported by the Z axis.

[@yazy91]

can you make a video for how to print using the usb or wirelessly?

[@anglobricks9086]

I agree with heated bed always. It will NOT print successfully without a heated bed. 50-60C works for me with PLA

[@woodysgeekchannel2204]

the tweezers you are using is actually call a "hemostat"

[@bulletproofpepper2]

thanks i forgot what they were called knew it was not regular tweezers.

[@jude3dprinting352]

This video really helped me set of my MP select Mini printer. Best guide I have seen yet

[@jong2359]

Thank you for this video, I really can appreciate the way you are presenting all the information in these 3d printer videos.

[@anantkhanna4954]

does this support 1kg of filment? (the voxel only has .5 kg) also, on the reviews, it says that there isnt a heated bead, could you also confirm if there is or isnt? and is the only option to make the prints stick to the bed to use tape or a new bed? (and is it important to have a heated bed/do these steps to have the print stick) last thing, can i use the oldest version of cura (1506.06.) or do i need the latest version?

[@DaveWirth]

Any version of Cura will work, you are just making a Gcode file. It does support 1kg filament. Yes there is a heated bed. Other options for bed that i've used are a piece of mirror glass with a glue stick to hold prints down, and also a sheet of PEI that works great for PLA filament. I always use a heated bed when printing.

[@anantkhanna4954]

@@DaveWirth ok, thanks

[@PeterAgostiniJdcap26]

May give this a try as long as you are around to figure things out . Is the black version better than the white one or no difference ? Have they worked all the bugs out beside user error? Ty Dave .

[@DaveWirth]

I think the black is Version 2. Better hotend, better bed surface.

[@PeterAgostiniJdcap26]

@@DaveWirth Thanks. Dave appreciate it ...its. snowing here !

[@albulenacalaj5691]

Can you make a video on how to fix the z-axis switch?

[@BentRim]

what print volume is this capable of? Cool little printer.

[@DaveWirth]

120mm x 120mm

[@oldschool7743]

Awesome dude! Subscribed! Been thinking this printer when I saw it last week. I don't have one yet....for beginners like me.

[@johnmhuberty71]

I use a 50-50 mix of vinegar and dish soap to clean my OEM bed. Let it soak in a bit then scrub off with cloth.

[@gregbrooker9098]

Can't get my print of the print bed. Any tips? Used scraper, force etc.

[@sirshammalot]

Good video :) I was waiting to see the final product but still great video :)

[@iddygirlgaming7393]

I had the sam z axis problem thanks!

[@gamesat4205]

Thanks for the vid. I'm wondering bout gcode now. Can I do it all from my phone? Convert STL into gcode and send via smart device Android? Can we get a new awesome info vid or suggestions? Thanks for your time this printer is dope and great mods!

[@Nifty-Stuff]

Fantastic video! I get my Select Mini today and can't wait to put some of this info into practice!

[@MyLifesDreamis2WorkWithWolves]

This is old af… BUT…. I got 2 of these lol. One had a problem and support LITERALLY just replace it and then I was able to fix the first hahahaha. But……. I ain’t used it for literally years I mean it’s been 4 years so. And I’m looking at a printer called a BAMBU P1S basically a top printer right now for the price. Sooo the question is. Does this printer still perform? Or shall I get the new one? Only reason I’m not getting it instantly is because again I just didn’t use it for 4 years and now I’m here wanting to use it again lol. But not sure I can be bothered with the cura settings. I remember I had a secret profile I setup made prints literally I mean literally ridiculously smooth that they looked like as good as acetones!!! This was pla too. But now the new ones have apps and it’s so easy. Help me out?

[@DaveWirth]

I still use mine occasionally. It still prints fine. I'm sure newer printers are better, faster, bigger build plate, etc. But that Bambu printer is like $1,000, where as these were $200 several years ago and probably cheaper now.

[@TaitGuy]

Dave, How slow can you go with this 3D printer? Great Video - Thanks! ~Dave

[@DaveWirth]

Depends on what you put in the slicer settings. I usually print at 40mm/s. But you can print as slow as you want.

[@nickiminaj6816]

i dont have a 3d printer but i like to watch his videos

[@powerwindpro]

what is the exact size of glass that i have to buy for bed?

[@curiosity2314]

7 months later I decided to try the Mono V2, ran the cat code, 3 prints walked on me, then I used masking tape set the EX temp at 215 bed at 60 and lowered the speed to 0.5. Oiled the rails with synthetic lubricate lightly. 23% and so far so good, could not get past 5 %, it's looking like patients is a virtue? I guess the question is can you run that Cat at 1.0? Feels like my table stepper is struggling. We'll see.

[@DaveWirth]

Does your table slide freely in the Y direction? Maybe something is binding it up. As far as sticking, try adding a thin layer using a glue stick on the tape. It's a little messy but should help with adhesion. Also i thought the V2 came with BuildTak on the bed? So you should be able to print directly onto that with no problems. I've never printed the cat, maybe try another part and see if it's the file or the printer that's at fault.

[@TheHiddenPearl]

Hello, I bought a new one exactly like your machine. I have hand-drawing pictures, how can I turn the pictures into the electronic files to be able to print. I do not know how to use Cura.

[@DaveWirth]

The file format the printer uses is .gcode. That is the "sliced" file. The file format that you put into Cura or Slic3r can be lots of different things, but the most common are .STL or .OBJ. So you should look up how to turn your pictures into a .STL or .OBJ file format. Then you put that into Cura and can print it.

[@TheHiddenPearl]

@@DaveWirth thanks a lot. I will try. If I have more questions, I would like to ask later. Well, I do have a question now, does this machine only print something flat as its slices or it can print irregular and different dimensions products?

[@DaveWirth]

@@TheHiddenPearl it's a 3D printer. It prints 3-dimensional shapes. It's called a slicer because 3d printers print in layers or slices. it prints 1 layer at a time on top of each other.

[@TheHiddenPearl]

Thanks a lot!!

[@TheHiddenPearl]

@@DaveWirth I have this question: Can this machine print with metal materials or only plastic? thanks

[@pamelam550]

I need help with my monoprice 3d printer , I have cleaned then replaced nozzle , adjusted the plate changed the blue tape and my filament is still clumping at the nozzle

[@DaveWirth]

By clumping, you mean not sticking to the build plate? At the Home position, the end of the nozzle and build plate should be just far enough apart that a piece of paper can be slid in between.

[@acerockollaa]

Incredibly informative video. This really helped me understand what to do.

[@DaveWard-xc7vd]

Spritz a little water on the bed after you apply the glue stick and use a toothbrush to spread the glue around. You can do this over and over again. Just clean the bed if it bets too dirty.

[@jacobvans9285]

Hey just curious if you know how to fix the griding of the printer going past that stopper I am running into that problem and would really like to fix it rather than sending it back thanks man!

[@DaveWirth]

You mean the extruder? Grinding and slipping of filament means that the driver gear is too loose or there is a filament clog at the hotend

[@warrenvannuil8401]

Been trying to print on glass so far not much luck have not tried glue yet. I have an Anet A8. Have only had for 2 or 3 weeks but have been having a ball with it. I have printed a bunch of thing some great some not so great. I like your videos a lot keep them coming.

[@DaveWirth]

Thanks. Gluestick helps a lot but can be a little messy. I had to take the glass off and wash it in the sink every 5 prints or so. I then bought a sheet of PEI (never tried BuildTak) and it's been a joy to use. Still get a pretty smooth finish on the bottom layer, sticks really well, and no clean up. But you do have to print at a slightly higher bed temp, i used to print at 50C now more like 65C.

[@bobbykeyz1263]

Warren Van Nuil I have a couple of Anet A8's. My biggest problem was getting things to stick. I started printing on Borosilicate glass with hair spray and still had problems. I have more hair spray than most women lol. I'm now printing on Vertex buildtak, sells on Amazon for $16 and so far no more problems. I just got my Monoprice mini today and I'm putting it on this one too.

[@3rdaxis649]

Where do i fing the settings for this printer as far as Gcode "flavor" and other setting for Cura 3.1 because this printer is NOT in there quick listing. Of course.

[@Jrez]

I got the pro version on open box discount, I really wish I still had the button, the touchscreen leaves much to be desired.

[@jmr7419]

When are you going to post the video on your cura settings, I think mine are correct, but I want to have the exact settings.

[@DaveWirth]

Hopefully soon. Most of my settings are the same for all the filament i use. Only change a few things depending on PLA or PETG.

[@djaynewman]

Thank you. I was wondering how to put the filament into the Mini. Have you heard about the curse put on those Yoda prints? Every time somebody prints one, the universe retroactively adds one more second of Jar Jar dialog. :)

[@josephschmoberg6778]

How do you delete the files off the printer ... I have just a few files on my card, but every time I print the printer saves the files and now I have lots of files I must go through ... I want to delete 80 % of them ? BTW: I went to Harbor Freight and got an assortment of small tweezers ... use them a lot !

[@DaveWirth]

I'm not sure. All the files should be on the MicroSD card. Just delete them off of there.

[@richardlimbrick7145]

Is there any reason you could not use feeler gauges?

[@DaveWirth]

Richard Limbrick you definitely could. But even with using a piece of paper, it's a bit of a feel thing. Meaning you have to do it a few times to get the feel of friction when sliding the paper under the nozzle. But ya a set of feeler gauges would work ok, I've never tried it though

[@mazzfotovideo]

hi, i want to make a gadgets for my sony a6000 like rear lens caps, bokeh lens caps, this printer works for taht!! thanks.

[@DaveWirth]

Ya, it isn't a huge print bed (can't print a cell phone case) but should be fine for the things you listed.

[@bpmc9935]

I do a lot of work in AutoCAD 2018 3D. I'd like to know how to go about exporting these 3D images in a format that my new (just got it yesterday) Monoprice Mini 3D printer will recognize. Thanks!

[@DaveWirth]

+Brian McKown .stl or .obj files are importable to slicer programs like cura. Autocad is .dwg, not sure if you can import that directly, may have to convert it. Or maybe autocad can Export to .obj

[@joshuahess7197]

Dave Wirth .obj is a pretty common and simple file format Autocad should be able to export to it.

[@Grumpyoldtwit]

I just pulled the trigger on one this afternoon.

[@trishaobrien5886]

How much does the filament cost when you have to buy your own? And I've heard of the MP printer, which is $89.00 not including shipment, and $100.00 including shipment. What is the difference between this printer and the MP printer? I didn't see any difference at all.

[@DaveWirth]

The one i have is Version 1. The black one is Version 2, which is better. They made some good changes to the print bed and hotend. Filament can cost anywhere between $15 and $50. For basic ABS you can spend as little as $15. Basic PLA is around $20. For more advanced filament like PETG or similar it might be $30 - $50.

[@Chris-bz2ku]

Have you considered trying an acid etched glass?

[@DaveWirth]

no. That might be a good idea to give the part something to stick to. If i use glass i use a gluestick. Otherwise i just add a sheet of PEI on top.

[@forageforage3520]

Blue Painters Tape.. it does seem to want curl up back off the bed..

[@DaveWirth]

Try glue stick on the tape too. A little messy but works great.

[@BarManE.C.]

Question: Can you give me a list of software programs out there that give you the option to COPY an existing part 3D with the exact specifications of the part, so that you can essentially make replica parts? Like the top 5 software programs would be awesome? I don't want to have to measure all millimeters of this part and try to program it into the soft ware, I'd rather just copy the part itself if that is possible. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

[@DaveWirth]

Like a scanner? kzbin.info/www/bejne/nGbXfZKQnMR6j9k The Kinect isn't really good for getting super accurate parts. You need a special desktop scanner for that.

[@amberlittlefinger9193]

There is a 3D scanner you can print on Thingaverse. That would be your best option if you don't want to measure

[@Noeland]

I got a black version for Christmas with a color screen. I can’t get the wifi to work (yes I DL’d the app to my phone) The files on the micro SD card were PC based files (.exe), so I had a bad feeling the damn thing would not work on my macbook. It wont. They provide you with Cura with no profile for this printer in Cura. It’s a $200 paperweight that can print a cat. I can’t get a single thing to print.

[@DaveWirth]

Never tried the WIFI with my Version 1, and never updated the firmware. As far as a profile, you can import the profile from the cat.gcode and use that, or see my video about what settings to use. Just import the 3D file you want to print then import the settings from gcode, and use the cat file. I always print through the MicroSD card, but you can also print directly from your computer if you connect it with a cable.

[@bennydomagic4788]

Noeland if you have a pre 2014 MacBook with an sd card slot all you have to do is get a microSD to SD adapter and put the stock microSD that came with your printer into your computer. then open disk utility and format the MicroSD to EXFAT format. Once you do that just load up any stl file into Cura and slice as a g code to the desktop ( make sure you send the file to the desktop first and not directly onto the card from Cura otherwise the file can get corrupted, also I’ve noticed for some reason if you give the file an excessively long name this can happen as well so try to keep the file names short as possible). Then just drag and drop the file to the MicroSD and eject. Make sure your printer is powered off, insert the card and turn it back on and you’re ready to go! Got this as my first printer a couple months back and although they can be frustrating at first but once you get the kinks worked out these things print absolutely beautifully. Good luck and if you need any more help getting started shoot me a message!

[@Noeland]

Just want to say THANK YOU for the advice! I have an SD card slot, but the printer won't read any files made on a mac. So I borrowed my wife's Dell, and installed Repetier from the SD card provided to make my Gcode files. It works. It's a long, long way from being ideal, but it works now. But it only reads the micro SD card it came with. It won't read any other micro Sd cards. I still can't print from either the mac or a PC with the USB cable. I get a ton of errors trying that.

[@seankirkup9741]

I keep having a problem where the printer keeps trying to go off the side of the print bed. I've looked on their website and it says the print bed is 120x120x120, but it keeps trying to go off the side.

[@DaveWirth]

Sean Kirkup the two things that I can think of are first a mechanical issue where you are X or Y axis which is not working or the plug may be loose. the second cause may be software ,in your Cura setup make sure the specified bed size is 120 and not something larger

[@seankirkup9741]

Thank you for replying, what i figured out is that the first time I try to print something, it works great, but if i cancel it and load the same file that worked before, it wants to go off the side. I've figured out that turning the machine off and back on again will fix the problem.

[@emilyhannan7302]

I have a question, I have a mono price mini printer and my first attempt at 3d printing didn't work. The printer didn't even move and im wondering what would cause the printer to not move at all and what could I do to fix it.

[@DaveWirth]

That's a very broad question and could be 1 of 100 things. Time to start narrowing down the problem. First, does it move when you are in the menu and move the X, Y and Z axis manually? If yes, then the mechanical part is ok. If not it could be the motors or accidentally triggering the stop switches. Make sure the wires are pushed in completely to the endstop switches. Second, can you print the file that came on the microSD card? It should be the .GCODE file that is set and ready to go. Third, what happens when you press Print? Does the hotend heat up? Does the heated bed heat up? If the hotend is not up to the printing temperature it won't start printing. Fourth, if you are trying to print your own part, using a slicing program like Cura, there's a bunch of things that may be wrong there. Lots of settings like print bed size, print temperatures, parts too big, ... Try to narrow down the possibilities of what is wrong. It's tough though when you are trying to get your first thing to print.

[@emilyhannan7302]

thank you. It moves when I adjust the XYand Z axis. What are end stop switches? I'm not sure about the .GCODE file? When I press print it loads like it printing but doesn't do anything. The hothead and bed heats up. I guess I'll just play with it and see whats wrong. Thank you again for answering my question.

[@DaveWirth]

I show the Z axis end stop switch at 0:59 of the video. The X and Y axis switches look the same but the Y is under the print bed and the X is on the arm. When you say it loads, does it just say 0%? You may have to wait up to 5 minutes for the hotend and heated bed to get up to temperature. It will not print until those temperatures are reached. Much like a hot glue gun, you don't just plug it in and immediately start. You have to wait for the end to get hot so that it can melt the glue. It's possible that there may be a loose wire or something's wrong. Can you go in the menu and manually heat up the hotend and heated bed? Whenever i print i usually manually do that anyway. Before i print something i manually heat up the hotend to 200 and heated bed to 50. Then when i go to print something it usually starts in a few seconds because everything's heated and ready to go. Check that the hotend and heated bed are warm/hot. If everything seems good then it may be something wrong with the file.

[@emilyhannan7302]

I just fooled around with it and the both were heating up. I know the tip was because there was PLA coming out and I was adjusting my glass plate and could feel it getting hot.

[@DaveWirth]

It won't print until it reaches the specified print temp, typically 200 for hotend. You could try making your own .GCODE file and print that, instead of the one that comes on your microSD card. Use cura, load in a .STL file, import the settings from the other .GCODE file on your card and save the new file.

[@trontron844]

😢 I don't have the card that it came with. What do I do?

[@DaveWirth]

You just need any microSD card. Use any slicer software, make a GCODE file and put that on the microSD card.

[@galiojusticejustice3191]

Hey, every time I try to print or preheat, the printer reboots itself, and I can't seem to find any way to fix it.

[@DaveWirth]

I've never had that problem. The biggest issue was when i had to mess with the wiring on the board. Your issue sound more serious. Is there a way you can update the software somehow?

[@JCshizle]

would you recommend this to someone who wants there first 3d printer with a budget of around $300?

[@DaveWirth]

It's a great first 3D printer. Right out of the box you are ready to go. Instead of getting a box of pieces that you have to put together and troubleshoot. You are not overwhelmed with things going wrong. If something breaks or clogs, it happens one at a time and you can fix it. It's a great printer, great quality prints, with lots of features, and easy to use.

[@trishaobrien5886]

There are other printer's for $200.00 but this is good for beginners. I would definitely recommend this.

[@HenryEpstein]

Using the Monoprice V2 Having real problems with my Prints Bending off my Brims - Do you have any settings in Cura 4.2.1 that might help this problem?

[@DaveWirth]

I never printed with a brim. I just printed the first layer right on the surface. I do print a couple offset lines to get the filament flowing though. I've printed on masking tape, glass, and PEI. The first thing i would say is try using a glue stick. It can be a little messy but adding a thin layer with the gluestick gets most things to stick. I printed with gluestick and glass for a long time. Then like every 10 prints or so i removed the glass and washed the old glue off in the sink. Then i started using PEI. That was great too. Maybe not quite as good as the gluestick, but the fact that there is zero cleanup made up for the 1 print out of 10 not sticking. If you are printing with ABS it's another story. That stuff it totally different and will curl if it isn't in a heated enclosure. You can also increase your filament output to like 110% on the first layer to get more filament out and try to get a better bond with the print bed. There's tons of suggestions, no right answers.

[@trekgod3]

I really need some help with my monoprice select mini v2. I am having a hard time getting it to print anything. It will print the cat.gcode model just fine. I've downloaded a bunch of stl models from thingiverse. I've only gotten 2 models to print so far . One is an adapter for a 40mm gas mask. I opened the stl file in cura then loaded the gcode profile from the cat model. It printed fine. I've tried this same technique with my other models and when I go to print, the printer does nothing. The progress bar on the front of the printer begins moving like it's printing but the printer does nothing. What am I doing wrong? I'm getting very frustrated.

[@DaveWirth]

1. I think Cura saves your settings, so you shouldn't have to load the settings from the cat every time. 2. Maybe try an older version of Cura. I found that the Version 2.xxxx can be overly complicated. The version 15.xxxx is much simpler, especially when you are just starting out. 3. Since some .gcode files print and others don't i would guess that it's a software problem, something is wrong with the .gcode files you are creating, not a hardware problem. If you right-click on the .gcode file and scroll down it should show a bunch of X Y Z lines (telling the printer where to go). If those lines aren't there, or the .gcode is blank, then it's something wrong with the slicer program.

[@trekgod3]

Dave Wirth I figured it out. The sd card and files became corrupted from me not ejecting the card and all the back and forth copying files. I reformatted the card and it works now. Thanks

[@mmnissanzroadster9]

Hmm, yeah, corruption is horrible. The only time I had an SD card corrupt on me was when I came back from shooting photos of a house for a real estate agent... The USB for my SD Card reader wasn't built well and kept losing contact with my pc USB port... I've since gotten a new SD card reader AND I take off my photos as soon as I get the card plugged in... but honestly as long as the program isn't editing a file on the SD card I don't bother about "properly" ejecting the card.

[@AndreasGoettsche]

What is the high dimension in inch or cm ? - thank you!

[@Glucke]

My m200 has a foamish paper thing (pretty think) inside the extruder area, do. I take that off?

[@DaveWirth]

kubtractor not sure what that is. if it's something that looks like it will melt at 200C then ya probably take it off

[@Glucke]

Dave Wirth yea I looked and it's supposed to be there, thanks anyways!!

[@Glucke]

Dave Wirth Update: i have a new problem, my print curls up at the start and when the extruder comes back around, it gets caught. I've tried it at 185 degrees extruder, 50 degrees plate, and a 0.5 speed, but it still happens.... sorry for bugging you but your the only person I've found to have much experience with this machine, thank you!

[@DaveWirth]

I assume you are printing with PLA, which is usually good for bed adhesion. I also assume you are printing on the tape that came with the printer, or blue painters tape, which is also usually good. There's a million different discussions on getting good bed adhesion. I did a video on how to add a glass print bed, but that's something you won't need to do for a long time: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKqWYXhsrK98sJY . First i would try printing onto blue painters tape at 65 degrees. If that doesn't work try the tape at 65 but spray it down first with a few thin layers of hair spray. If that doesn't work use a thin layer from a glue stick. I've been printing on a sheet of PEI and it's great, no spray, no glue and parts stick great. But it's $20 for a sheet. I've also heard good things about BuildTac.

[@Glucke]

Dave Wirth yep! Just needed higher temps, thanks a lot!

[@CursedWarrior100]

Change your retraction settings so you don't have to worry about those tweezers

[@Nighthawke70]

I would not update firmware over WiFi. There are too many variables that might corrupt and brick your machine.

[@madyet5235]

have you been able to print any flexible material with the monprice select mini? thanks!

[@DaveWirth]

I haven't tried, but i know people have. You do need to print slowly and put spacers in between your extruder drive gear and the start of your bowden tube so it doesn't kink.

[@madyet5235]

Dave Wirth how do I go about learning how to install that spacer?

[@DaveWirth]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/maS4Z5uVjpV3nLs www.thingiverse.com/thing:1945783

[@CoolStreamT]

I heard according amazon reviews that this printer is just for 5-10 projects, and , then , some parts will brake or you need to repair. It's like disposable printer. Is it true?

[@AGoldSoldier]

CoolStreamT Those are likely lemons; a 3d printer is NEVER disposable. Though, Monoprice does seem to have a bit of an issue with QC, that doesn't make their printers "disposable."

[@zion1385]

The reason is that 3D printing was a trend a people didn't know how to use the printer so they would just carelessly print things and not cleanup the printer so no its actually a great printer

[@josephschmoberg6778]

I just got mine as a addition to the PRUSA i3 MK2. both printer are just sensational, with the PRUSA being a much bigger unit, but the Monoprice is a very nice desktop printer ... two of my fellow workers are going to buy them because of the small footprint, price and the customer service ... which is very good ;- ) Since I posted this a few days ago I have printed about 10 items, some original and some not ... all on PLA and all very good quality prints ... I am very pleased !

[@ragnarmarnikulasson3626]

you should turn the printer off after homing, then you can slide the x and y axes with your hands...

[@EfrainRiveraBetances]

I just made 3 prints with my printer, then now when I try to print, the filament curls over the nozzle every time. I checked the temperature, the leveling, every single setting and the same thing keeps happening. Can you give me any suggestions?, please. Thanks

[@DaveWirth]

+Efrain Rivera Betances what do you mean by "curls over the nozzle"? Do you mean it doesn't stick to the build plate? I'm assuming you are printing on masking tape. Some ideas are: try blue painters tape, wipe the tape before printing with acetone (nail polish remover), manual slow down the print in the beginning from 1.0 to 0.7, wipe the tape lightly with a glue stick.

[@EfrainRiveraBetances]

Yes, it does not stick. Thank you so much Dave. I will try that out

[@AGoldSoldier]

Efrain Rivera In case that didn't work, it's likely that your print nozzle is clogged.

[@TheAusherGuy]

What size filament it use? And will tpu filament work in it?

[@DaveWirth]

1.75mm. Never tried tpu

[@zion1385]

Ok so if I have this printing overnight in my bedroom will the sound be loud enough to make it hard to sleeep?

[@DaveWirth]

In the same room...ya maybe. The loudest noise is from the small 30mm fan. Some people have replaced it with a larger and quieter fan. The other noises are the motors, belts and pulleys. You can also put it in an enclosure to dampen the noise.

[@3rdaxis649]

I'm having nothing but problems with this printer ever since I "tried" to set up WiFi. Now, nothing works right and it's all over the place. All the settings had to be re-done. It abruptly stops printing because it STILL is trying to connect to wifi which i can't figure out how to stop. Printing by USB was a shit show as well. I should of just left it alone. So frustrating.

[@matthile5734]

So my filament won’t go past the lever and into the tube it just stops

[@DaveWirth]

You have to pull the lever and feed the filament into the tube. Sometimes if the filament isn't straight it doesn't want to feed into the tube. Keep turning it and forcing

[@matthile5734]

@@DaveWirth I pull down the lever and everything

[@DaveWirth]

You should be able to pull the lever and be able to feel the filament between the round drive gear. The drive gear makes the filament move

[@DaveWirth]

See 4:41 of the video. Also cut the filament on an angled point, helps.

[@DoomDeity]

@@DaveWirth what if my filament got stuck in the tube and broke off?

[@TidewaterAerialSolutions]

Have you printed with petg filament on this model?

[@DaveWirth]

Yes, does just fine. The upper limit of the printer hotend is 250 i think. Most PETG wants to be printed at 220-240. And i usually have the print bed at 40 or 50. In this video the Green and Red translucent filament is PETG. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWmuo6hsormNY6c&lc=UgxDOeJVtwX3l1pfUFt4AaABAg

[@WiltedRaven2]

I got mine today and it came in with a non working lcd screen plz help. I cant afford a replacement

[@DaveWirth]

Just return it.

[@WiltedRaven2]

@@DaveWirth i ordered on amazon and they wont let me return it. So im screwed. Idk if its a board issue or just lcd. Trying to find out the problem so i can fix it

[@DaveWirth]

@@WiltedRaven2 Take off the screws on the bottom. Maybe the plug is just loose. You should be able to trace the wires from the screen to the main board. Here's a video i did where i had to open up the case to fix something: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3Stq3iOobigr9U You can see the board and all the wires.

[@WiltedRaven2]

@@DaveWirth I have done this and everything is all hooked up and nothing is lose. Would i just need to replace lcd or lcd and the board?

[@DaveWirth]

@@WiltedRaven2 I don't know. Never had an issue with my LCD. I just had that MOSFET switch blow and the hotend wouldn't heat. One idea: Plug the printer in, with the bottom off, and see if there is Power going to the LCD (using a volt meter). If yes, then the LCD is bad. If no, then it's the board. Maybe start with that.

[@xionlord00]

Is the glass needed?

[@Inspiredbyelle]

Bought this printer for Christmas and have had nothing but problems with it. The printer is not seeing the micro SD card, and says it is not inserted. I have purchased and formatted a new SD card and the same thing............any ideas anyone, as their support line is non-exstent? Thanks :)

[@bennydomagic4788]

Inspired by Elle if the microsd is third party you have to make sure that the capacity is lower than 16gb (I don’t remember the exact number so it may be even less, I’d get something like 2g just to be safe especially since Goode files aren’t too big). Also if you are using Cura on a Mac you have to format the card as EXFAT format

[@bennydomagic4788]

On pc the format would be FAT16/FAT32

[@3rdaxis649]

PLEASE HELP!!! So, i load a model into Cura(set-up per manual suggestion) from Thingaverse. A whistle. Simple. i save gcode to a folder then copy that file onto the sd card that came with the printer Note: if a file name uses an underscore_____ it will not save or write the file to the sd card for some reason. Okay, so then i put the card into the printer with a correct file name (whistle) and hit print. Nothing happens except.... the blue time line starts to go. And its goes until the end and hangs up. I can not cancel, I can not pause and i can not print. Now, the "Cat.gcode" file that comes on the sd card with the printer prints just fine. Cura does not seem to work with this machine for me now. I forgot to mention, i worked the first few times UNTIL i tried to set up the WiFi which was a fail. I can't even get the usb to work... Please help.

[@DaveWirth]

Stereo Studios first, try putting the gcode file directly onto the ad card, NOT in any folders. Second, keep the filename short? I think someone else in the comments had the problem of the progress bar going and nothing printing, i forget how he fixed it

[@DaveWirth]

Stereo Studios and maybe restore the old firmware without wifi?

[@3rdaxis649]

I'm trying to print with the USB cable but that's not working either. It starts the warm-up process and then just sits there. I'll try the short file name on the SD card now. And as far as restoring the firmware i have no idea how to do that, lol.

[@3rdaxis649]

Tried the short file name and nothing. Same exact thing. Doesn't heat up and the time line starts moving. At this point I'm so frustrated I'm ready to return it to Monoprice.

[@3rdaxis649]

This thing is just ALL OVER THE PLACE. It's just doing weird and random stuff. So aggravating. What is "Smart config started" mean? I noticed when you hold down the okay button when "Move" is selected..? And what is the "driver.inf file on the SD card for?

[@charliefischer59]

I am torn between this printer and the kodama obsidian.

[@friendlyfiregaming4601]

Get with this. Being an early adopter of any printer is a bad idea.

[@IWHBYDBTDGOTFF]

can you provide the file you used to make the knob?

[@DaveWirth]

www.thingiverse.com/thing:1677768

[@IWHBYDBTDGOTFF]

Dave Wirth Thank you!

[@itzelm7852]

Does anyone have the original files from the SD card that it comes with?

[@DaveWirth]

I think someone has it, or it's posted on their Facebook page: facebook.com/groups/1830689443829526/

[@whizbang7636]

Great videos and a lot of excellent precise information. Thanks!

[@3rdaxis649]

How do i restore the old firmware??

[@simonh2734]

What's up with the glass?

[@callmematy4713]

My prints stop at about 20 seconds. Any help?

[@DaveWirth]

Does it just sit there? Or does the progress bar go up to 100% real fast? First make sure it's not something with the slicer program, or the gcode. I've noticed that if i print for a long time and the printer gets too hot it will stop, but that sounds different from what you are experiencing. Try to narrow things down, the main board, the wiring, try different files to print... Not sure, but maybe just try to isolate the possible problems

[@cutflower36]

Is the filament 1.75, PLA?

[@DaveWirth]

yes. i've also printed with PETG and ABS

[@cutflower36]

@@DaveWirth where do u get a good deal on it

[@DaveWirth]

@@cutflower36 Well i have a MicroCenter near me. They have PLA for like $20 and ABS for $10. Other then that i would think Amazon. I did some reviews of filament from different places: kzbin.info/aero/PLnfZ3Rt-xEK-6LzkuReL3StDU5JlA6yV2 All PLA is basically the same. But the best stuff i've printed with is E3D Edge filament. It's like $40, but it prints great. So i have some filament if i just want to print something cheap, eg. $15 yellow PLA, some if i want it strong, eg. $10 blue ABS, and if i want it to be super fancy i will use the expensive stuff. Also remember that if you leave it out, after a year it will get brittle and crack and kind of useless. It takes a lot of printing to go through an entire 1kg spool.

[@DaveWirth]

@@cutflower36 Oh, and this eSun PLA+ is decent for like $25 amzn.to/2O47lOQ not as cheap as basic stuff from MicroCenter, but prints well and sticks to the bed

[@cutflower36]

@@DaveWirth thank u so much for all the good info. I think I will get one of the 3d printers to make copies cutter. If u don't mind me asking, I notice some have a stair step look on some to the items when people print. What can be done to get a smooth seamless application?

[@MarianaSantos-zb6di]

how do you turn it on?

[@DaveWirth]

Red switch in the back

[@lenk132]

Nice MP mini select v2 intro video

[@The8B1tWarrior]

Mine wont turn on, what do I do?

[@DaveWirth]

Bad power supply? Used to be a common problem with the early ones.

[@The8B1tWarrior]

@@DaveWirth It now turns on for a flash second but wont do anything after. Thank for replying despite this video being years old

[@DaveWirth]

If you have another "wallwart" plugs that produces 12 volts (and has the same size hole) i would try that. I just remember back when the Version 1's came out a bunch of people were complaining that the power supply was bad and had to buy a new one after a couple weeks. Beyond that it would must be something with the circuit board??? You can take the screws off the bottom and look in there, see if anything looks burned? I know a new circuit board is like $60. But hopefully it's just the power supply. Oh, maybe it's a short or twisted wire causing a short. Like maybe your hotend is bad and the + and - wires are shorting out. Maybe try disconnecting things one at a time and see if it turns on. Maybe can isolate the problem.

[@SlavaVB]

Can you send me a link that shows how to set up Cura slicer for Monoprice Select Mini ....

[@DaveWirth]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3rRdaWXe7Okr68

[@samuelroberts8449]

Use hair spry to make it stick, it works so well!!!!

[@amberlittlefinger9193]

Those are hemostats (mosquitoes more specifically it looks like) not tweezers. I know that wouldn't be common knowledge, but I'm a Certified Surgical Technologist. 😂 Good info though. Thank you.

[@PerspectivEs]

r/iamverysmart

[@airporthobo9566]

why does this look like it was filmed in 2002? btw good guide :3

[@elerivalduke9840]

got mine for 50$ with a broken bed wire, took 10 minutes to fix,

[@thevrbros8396]

Mine doesn’t work

[@ssouren7987]

any one else getting triggered over his head being half cut off lol

[@davidslav650]

exactly. It's. such. a. simple. fix. just raise the camera

[@trishaobrien5886]

This video was aimed at the printer, not admiring his head. Get over it.

[@cn8299]

7:25 "Root directory"

[@ronniepaulinc]

has to be in the ROOT of the drive

[@airgunningyup]

subbed!

[@MrAntaresX]

From your presentation, I dooubt that you bothered to read the manual before you made the video :-)