3D Printing Action Figures (2023)

You've probably never heard of this resin but it was made specifically for Resin 3D Printing Action Figures! Lets test it out!
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Thanks for watching!
#3DPrinting #Toys #Resin

[@UncleJessy]

If you love Action Figures or modding them you have to checkout Donmanart's patreon - www.patreon.com/donmanart/ Checkout the new Nano Resin for yourself ebay.to/46hvLKp

[@JohnClark-tt2bl]

Try dipping the joints in a bit of the same resin, and cure that layer with a light. A couple extra layers may make the joints a little stiffer.

[@UncleJessy]

oh love that idea

[@RomanceRoach]

For 3D prints like this, it might be smart to design these custom 3D models with magnet ports in mind. Snapping the limbs together with mini magnets and using different sized magnet balls as joints might work better in the long run for customs. PLUS it’ll make for flawless posability

[@craigrogers8182]

When doing a heat expansion fit it is best to heat the piece that has the socket and not the piece that has the pin or ball. When you heat both, they both get bigger, if you only heat the socket side, then only the socket gets larger and then it should cool down and hold the ball or pin firmly. This should help minimize cracking when you fit them together.

[@MrFree2BeMe1]

I use FDM because you can warm up the Abs plastic to fit the joints in, then i coat the figure in resin to get rid of the layer lines 👍👍that's the best i can think of for now!

[@UnvarnishedTarnished]

Do you have anywhere I can see them?

[@Hellspawnxxx]

@UncleJessy use Krylon UV protective clear gloss spray varnish it will make the clear resin parts look as shiny and clear as when you first took them off the print bed and will protect from yellowing since its UV protecting.

[@rowie4life]

Real figures are made of, at least, 2 different types of plastics. You should emulate that, maybe that will improve the figure joints.

[@oem42]

so instead of adding the red ink to the resin, ive found spritzing the print with iso and then just painting it diluted in more alcohol on with a brush gives a really solid tint and allows you to change colours or keep some areas light while you darken up other areas. After its all dried i struggle to tell the difference.

[@CorneliuTicu]

Printed resin heats up very fast in the microwave. At the default 800w some in only 10s. The advantage is that it heats up also on the inside, much stronger on thin parts. Take care it gets brittle and cracks very fast. It differs from resin to resin and if it was printed with thick layers, it starts to warp because it cured in gradients. It can be also “super-cured” in water because the heat produced by the curing process is dissipated immediately. Water soluble resin from Elegoo, when cured for about 30 minutes in water is resistant to heat up to 400C. Transparent or white resin gets yellow from the curing heat. This can be avoided in water.

[@WW2Trooper505]

For action figures, i know there are some really good resins from resione, there are guys in the 1/12 SW figure scene who use the anti-impact and M58 for figures, i personally use F69 for an increasign ammount of 1/12 figure sculpts and 3d prints because of its rubber like properties. Id be interesred to see how well / if at all F69 performs with those files in printing figures, you may need to do some parts in tough and others in flex. F69 has been a game changer for me in creating new parts for SW black series figures.

[@p.dasilva299]

Are you using strictly F69 or a combo of resins? I have been printing 3.75in and 1/18th for star wars figures but have not had as much successes with the belts or harnesses using a blend of F69 and grey resin. Its was too brittle but looks great. Also what is your curing time?

[@WW2Trooper505]

@@p.dasilva299 i just use F69 for belts etc the cure times i use are the same as that on resines website its the lift distances you have too up, plus I've found a lot of the failures i have are due to the build plate or 0 level not being set right

[@ChrisOsberg]

I've heard of various products for tightening action figure joints including: Water-based polyurethane (This seems to work wonders) Super glue (For thickness/texture. Rotate after applying, until dry. It's tricky, and ruins the joint if not done properly.) Nail Polish Mod Podge

[@sogethgrimley]

resione anti impact. you should try it .

[@invincibletoys382]

I use resione m58 with resione f69 in a 50/50 mix its tough yet flexible. If you really want it tough add in a little protowhite or antiimpact into the mix.

[@jorgetboo]

Could you test using the tough resin for the body part, and using the flex resin for the joint? Maybe that could work better

[@RyanStone143]

Great vid! Resione is my goto resin.

[@Eddy_cokreeate23]

Uncle Jessy with the drip

[@PixelTraitor]

Dude, I was JUST looking for this exact type of thing. Thanks for doing thi svideo, we're gonna have to reach out to them to get some of that resin.

[@alfredopaez3538]

do the parts with the connectors in tough and the other parts in flex...this way the hard connecting parts has something that flexes to go into

[@17samuraispiritred]

That's awesome 😎👍

[@AFV85]

A cotton but with a tinyest bit of vasaline or Airbrush lube in the hole whare the ball pops in helps alot with these figures!

[@mrpurpleorc]

Any chance of testing the same prints with other flex resins to see a comparison? Love the video!

[@D00kie753]

im gonna get the elgoo for christmas and im soooooo nervous but also soooo exited

[@darksky7769]

Hey Jessy you should add that chemical or whatever that you use that one time for those other figures I want to say it was called tenacious but it gives them a little bounce

[@PhoenyxAshe]

Okay, I'm still new to resin printing... but does the "ABS-like" resin have the same slight flexibility that FDM ABS is supposed to have? (My FDM isn't enclosed - and is in my studio, so no ABS for me.) I ask because ABS is the go-to filament for one of the members of a BJD communities I'm in. Yes, the ball-jointed figures are a bit different than action figures, but there are some overlaps. Me, I'm still working on getting my supports right.

[@PoopLoopSoup]

Uncle Jessy looking like Uncle Joey lol. Great videos man! Been looking into getting a 3d printer for action figures but don't wanna get the wrong one.

[@robstone7421]

i would have loved to see u combine the resins. that is common for hard and flexible resins to get abs like properties.

[@Directo13]

Arw you going to mix the hard and the soft to get a nice mix up?

[@RoseKindred]

Wow, that is a clear resin print. I wonder how it will be in a few months and yellowing. I can see other uses for it outside of figures, such as LED light shades.

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah its super dang clean. I'm going to leave some outside and see what happens... well assuming the sun decides to shine again here haha

[@RoseKindred]

@@UncleJessy Even after being cured I can see the frosting, but it is a nice frosting. I think I am going to have to try the tough one to create faux stained glass using those LED color-change acrylic sign pucks.

[@zeemexminiatures]

@@RoseKindred Get some 'Ardcoat from Games Workshop, couple layers of that on your clear prints makes them look like glass, it's fantastic

[@TheNewBloodDan]

Small soldiers vibes!

[@ProMontreal]

I wonder if they’d ever do silicone action figures. Like has a rig inside so it would be more relatable and less screws in the figures

[@sjschauer4235]

I actually met Mike (HTB Toys) in person at Tucson Comic-Con he had the booth right behind me. I meant to talk to him more about his printers and figures, but we were both super busy, him selling figure kits and me my books.

[@dekopuma]

When you change out resins, do you empty the tray back into the bottle and clean it all up, or do you just have multiple trays?

[@genemaster74]

G'day Uncle Jess ol son..... this is great for us Rc 4x4 Scale trucks and cars builders. We are always trying to find a Action figure to fit our Projects, as not all figures are the same scale, this allows us flexability in making a full Figure or Torso up to fit our interiors. And thax to you, ive been drawn in by Austen and his guild on both Omni Projects. my little Ender 3 v2 has been running non stop since july, i wish i had at least 1 more printer to make my omni's quicker. Cheers Jess m8 for great vids and your exciting personallity, from a m8 in Brisbane, Downunder🙃

[@NotableEcho]

I’d like to know what the process is to make said resin, making a batch would be a cool project in itself

[@Pyromancers]

Maybe a 50%-50% blend? I've had great success at getting blended resins to give best use results in other flex and rigid brands. I think the Siraya Tech Tenacious and a tough resin blend would be best for this kind of stuff. I used it on the handle rings on my 3d printed Thor hammer that shoots lightning and it keeps up well well with the toughness of the tpu of the rest of the print (the hammer was designed to be able to smash stuff). It has worked well to make extra tough D and D figures for people. I saw people using it to make bodies for Ghostbusters RC car trap props too.

[@ultra_phantomaj8300]

Could this work with printing Bionicles? I tried with Elegoo standard resin and it just erodes on contact

[@mjsculpts8859]

Hey @UncleJessy I found this Azrach Collections awhile back here on YT and he's been using Resione resins to make his action figures with: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqbKfZyffbF8hqs The resin he's using doesn't product the white chalky residue when the figure joints move and he's produced a couple of highly articulated figures with it. Resione also has a flexible resin that works for action figure vests, straps, etc. and can be mixed with the harder resins to make them more flexible for action figure joints. Hopefully this helps! Great video!

[@markburton5292]

the reason to cure in water is there is less o2 in it so you don't get oxygen inhabitation in the curing process. warmer water helps in this as hatter water is less capable of holding onto dissolved o2 in the water.

[@Densmode3dp]

Yes, we use the in the dental industry. If you want even better O2 inhibitor you can use good grade glycerin or NO2 gas chamber.

[@MannEMar]

Could you mix the 2 resins and get something in between?

[@UncleJessy]

yeah you could, but they mentioned you shouldnt have to as the tough has a little flex in it and the flex has a little tough in it but I for sure preferred the Flex over the tough. Especially for the assembly

[@actionfiguredave99]

Can you add flex seal liquid rubber on it I'll give it a Bass body to paint on action

[@fraghead5]

Have you tried th72 from resi-one

[@acemilo]

HTB is half the battle toys. They've been around the unlicensed transformers scene for a while. They make transforming gijoe vehicles. It's not just a guy, it is a company, although probably not more than a few people. They probably developed this resin formula for their prototypes and are deciding to sell it which is a good idea imo.

[@liwfie]

The review feels like it's more about the models than the resin..... my big issue with resin printing figures right now is that when I put in joints and twist the parts to pose the resin wears off due to friction and lets off some resin dust..... does the nano resin have that issue??? or does it work better on that regard?

[@HTBToys]

It has a little dusting but not nearly as much as other resins. The best part of this resin is it made in the USA and CA prop 65 compliant.

[@vikt28animallover]

Can you 3d print GI joe action figures along with their vehicles.

[@foggiestfog]

looks like you would do a mix chest hard and arms and legs and head rubber

[@bonafiedangeredpenguin5387]

Best advice I could give try printing the joints only in solid material. Clear plastic joints have been prone to breaking for years and years now! Nobody's come up with a solid method for some reason clear plastic is always going to be more brittle and for that reason a lot of action figure companies or at least the Smart ones have always went with solid joints and clear body parts just because clear plastic joints never last! So it could be just as simple as reprinting the joints themselves in a much more durable and solid material because joints are going to move they're going to swivel and turn about overtime you might even want to look into getting things ratcheted give her take on what you're designing let's say you're designing a 24-inch figure you're definitely going to want those legs entirely ratcheted! But clear plastic joints will always break where do the wise for any project you're doing always use the most durable material you can think of for joints

[@adventuresintoyscale3233]

I've printed Donman's figures with Resione th72 at 4" and they still assemble fine, except for the female.

[@adventuresintoyscale3233]

Also, I use standard white wood glue that dries clear to stiffen up any loose joints.

[@DifferentAverage]

Great idea, Hella clever@@adventuresintoyscale3233

[@itzmatt4963]

Something I’d like to see is if someone could make Jurassic Park Action Figures like the humans and dinosaurs

[@kyleleib]

I've been a Patreon of donmanart for a little while now and will say it is well worth the money

[@ShomsPhotography]

Monocure 3D TENSILE Industrial Resin

[@tmarshall3d937]

Huh wonder what would happen if you mixed those resins together?

[@poodlescone9700]

Test that resin on a 3d printed Nintendo DS shell and see how strong the hinge is. That would be my true test on toughness.

[@harryduncan1033]

Resione M58 looks like a much better option here. I’ve used it for mort articulated projects & got better results

[@DifferentAverage]

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Sunlu's Nylon-like resin might also be a solid candidate

[@Opticon1431]

M58 and Anti-Impact are my go-to's for printing full figures - definitely the best choices out there.

[@HTBToys]

Resione makes a good product. We are somewhat competing with them on this resin. The advantage HTBToys has is the resin is made in the US and very low toxicity.

[@SevenInSoft]

Is the giant magneto statue done? 😭

[@lehoangminh]

I have tried printing toys from teccotoys before. . Too much pressure and force being applied on small joints, they are easily break. Also, in term of design, these prints often lack assembly logic to have them in stable position. You either have loose joints problem or fitting problem (too tight). Designing toys with resin printing might requires a completely different approaches. To be frank, they might as well learning from gunpla

[@SpeckyNation]

Yeah, I agree. Would probably work better with the old toy approach of having the main body pieces in 2 halves, that you glue together with the other piece's ball sockets in place, and an extra millimeter or 2 of thickness on the balls for tension.

[@liesureleeminis8268]

Id love to see you take a look at the megazords from toymakr3D the work that dude does is leagues above anything else ive seen. Highly recommend their mechagodzilla as well.

[@SpeckyNation]

Thanks for mentioning him. I love his content, but he posts so infrequently, I didn't even realize he'd released 2 videos I haven't seen yet XD

[@luislee3298]

use nail polish on the joints, I have done it and it works well, and you could use PLA, my printer is not resin, and I hardly know how to use it, I bought a very basic one

[@OpticBlast-yk5hf]

I want to get a resin printer around the $100-$200 range. Do you have any recommendations??

[@RoseKindred]

I just got my second Elegoo Mars 3 Pro for 180. It is typically 280-340, but I just waited till a sale. Think it might be on now as well, they happen a lot. Just checked, the EM3 (normal) is 150 on Elegoo.

[@peteradice]

That looks like the same crap results I’ve gotten with every other soft & hard resin I’ve tried so far to make action figures… The hard stuff gets really chalky and loose after “playing” with it.. and the soft resins just don’t have the tolerances to stay together 😢

[@makewithmegma]

💕👌👍

[@solrax6026]

This resin seems cool but looks like they still need lots of production. Still a bit pricey but ebay suppliers only and always out of stock..? Might as well get Conjure Rigin resin. It will do what this does for cheaper and something thats in stock

[@shadowmosesmusic]

Hey Uncle Jessy - We watch your channel all the time. If you ever find that tough resin please post a video - we are action figure customizers and prop designers in 1:12 scale maybe we can swap one day. - ShadowMoses112

[@nathanchannel1895]

Your figure look like ultraman bro yeah like ultraman the giant hero from japan

[@seekertosecrets]

3:39 You added too much. This just a guess, but you may have to add it by teaspoons or droplets.

[@AFV85]

Try sunlu grey abs like mixed with sunlu solidi black abs like for a high tough flexibility resin I done it by accident with a bottle of solid black which is actually a smoky black clear flexible Abs like resin in the bottle its totally different from their normal abs like but I mixed it with my Grey abs and the solid black the way I would my serhia tech and the results were pretty much the exact same! I think.i found a cheap way of reproducing this mix with the amazing Sunlu abs likes! Just remember solid black abs like is smoky clear flexible in the bottle not a normal black abs resin like we know! A mistake buy that really changed my printing!

[@Boblol126]

Does it chalk up when the joints move?

[@wastedbane3]

I need help I have a ender 3 printer I want to 3d print my dragon ball xen 2 character please help me if you can

[@AFV85]

Same guy is on cults 3D to download what you want if you don't want to become a patrion!

[@odyss160]

wow, now i dont need to wonder if i want a resin printer. this proves to me its not up to the job.

[@TormaTOS]

Resione m-something something

[@3DPrintedActionFigures]

For 3D printing action figures I recommend FDM over resin. I am interested however how well the resin joints hold up over time.

[@julythrunov]

I went through the entire process of 3d printing action figures. Using Formlabs Durable,Flexible and Tough 1500 resins. I learned to model figures and articulation keys, joints etc. The verdict: After a lot of trial and error, r&dc I successfully printed a few 3.75” super articulated action figures. However I stopped bothering with it. Even if you get the right resin, and the right tolerances etc, eventually the resin starts to break down and the figure falls apart months later. It’s just not a viable option in my opinion, Instead I work on perfecting and printing head sculpts, weapons, accessories and armor etc. Just much more reliable and enjoyable printing.