3D Printing Faster And Stronger Parts

[@beedubya1031]

Great video! I've been contemplating changing out my nozzle on my Ender 5+. I think this was enough info to make that change.

[@beedubya1031]

@Modbot Made the change successfully and had a few good test prints but now I've got substantially more stringing. Have been changing nozzle temps over several prints, I've checked my esteps from another video you have, and have also been tinkering with the retraction settings but still no luck making them go away. Do you have any other suggestions?

[@ModBotArmy]

For stringing retraction and temps are really the main thing I change up. Is it petg? I have certainly had my share of issues with stringy petg in the past

[@beedubya1031]

@@ModBotArmy Actually having stringing issues with PLA. I feel like I've tried just about every retraction length/speed and temp but I'm sure I'm missing something simple here.

[@slicedpage]

So where were you when I needed you most???? Printed a dozen prototypes for my first teleport machine last week. C'mon you let me DOWN! Seriously though this is going to save a ton of time, thank you for sharing. Another useful sub for me.

[@flybynite3932]

That is the first thing i do on a new printer. Especially the bigger ones. I switch to larger nozzles. You not only get by with less passes, but the lines are thicker which also makes them stronger. 1.2 mm walls are now printed in two passes. It just makes for a more rigid part.

[@Jannik_1020]

QUICK TIP: Use a big nozzle (eg. 1mm) but keep the standard layer hight (eg. 0.2mm). You will end up with the same quality prints but save A LOT of time. I don't know why not more people are doing this... :)

Less detailed prints? Sure z-wise it the same but my features are basically always in the XY plane ....

[@Jannik_1020]

@ I am using a 1mm Nozzle for over 1 year now and it always worked great without losing details. Maybe with very small prints the result will look different, but with small prints the time doesn't matter too much. Just try it out, maybe it is a good solution for you.

[@joemulkerins5250]

If using 1mm nozzle with 0.2mm layer heights compared to using 0.4mm nozzle would be compensated by the slicer in terms of filament flow I am sure... so all is good and should not make thin walls too much wider. However if doing something like a 1 wall calibration cube, I wonder would the wall be exactly 1mm wide or would it be possible to make it much thinner and still have good filament adhesion?? I am just thinking out loud to be honest 😄. Very interesting concept though! Thanks for the info.

[@kerseyfabs]

Great video! I do this all the time for my functional prototypes and I also use large nozzles for my large, less detailed cosplay and props. For many of those I will use the bigger nozzle but need layer heights short. It really depends on the geometry of the part though.

[@mycbeats1276]

75% of the nozzle diameter is the maximum recommended layer height therefore my default setup in my i3 Megas is 0.8mm nozzle at 0.6mm layer height. I consider the type of things I print to be 2.5D (ie complex in the X and Y axis but simple in the Z), so this works out great for me.

[@Deaner3D]

yep - though I always used 80%. There's another chunk of time to be saved by going for 75% vs. 50% of nozzle size vs layer height.

[@rvent3605]

I can get .3 layers and .5 line with with with a standard .4 nozzle to do exactly what you do. Cura just pushes more plastic out of the .4 nozzle. Works reliably for me. I do exactly as you’re doing, thick layers and lines for fast prototypes and then thinner layers and lines for the final part, except no need to swap out nozzles, level bed, etc. I also set the temp a little hotter to help with the flow.

[@crateer]

That's true and I do exactly the same! Though if you want to go even faster you can't get around using a larger nozzle :p

[@joemulkerins5250]

Yeah I tested this before as well. You can get pretty wide walls from pushing a lot of filament through the nozzle but there is a limit and (literally) puts more pressure on the machine. Good idea though! 👍

[@SerendipitousProducts]

Great video. I was thinking there has to be a faster way to print some of these larger items. .6 seems like a good compromise. Still using the .4 on my SW1 but I may give this a try.

[@andrec236]

I don't normally print miniatures so I've never changed a nozzle and put back a 0.4, it gets blocked alot easier than a 0.6 and as you said the item prints quicker and is stronger because of the nozzle size and a heat gun or a blow dryer will help smooth it out in minutes if the layer lines bothers you.

[@BenGarbutt]

I did exactly this 6 months ago, went from 0.3 to 0.5mm nozzle on a 220x220 print bed. still get good prints but _so_ much faster. (using 0.2-0.3 mm layers)

[@TheCarLovingSwede]

You should have mentioned that you can simulate a 0.6mm nozzle easily without problems with a 0.4mm nozzle. Just increase the wall width to 0.6 or even more and you can still run the same layer heights as with a 0.6 nozzle.

Yes, but not speed-wise I believe. At least not on my extruder.

[@devjock]

If your prototyping turnaround time is too large because of tolerance issues, just print with more perimeters, and scale +2%. If the part ends up too big, you have material you can sand off.

[@slug9591]

I'm brand new to 3D printing and just picked up the Sidewinder about a week ago. Can't find a whole lot of videos on it that aren't strictly reviews so this is definitely a welcome one. Looking forward to more videos specific to the X1, man!

[@ModBotArmy]

Interesting, perhaps I will try to do some more videos around the X1 or the Genius. They have certainly been go to machines for me for quite a few months. Congratulations on the new printer and thank you for your feedback.

[@tituscassiusseverus6303]

Thinking chimera head, volacano in one with 1mm nozzle and other with v6 with 0.4 nozzle, infill etc in 1mm detail in 0.4 Offset nozzle heights by layer height, and there are slicer settings that can do this. My latest venture is to fit servo controlled ooze guards or find some valve to stop ooze on unused nozzle

[@chrisalmich3071]

1.0mm nozzle makes vase mode prints insanely fast and durable.

[@ModBotArmy]

Oh yeah vase mode with a nozzle that large is insane. Haha I love it for fast prints.

I tried 1mm+ wall width on my 0.5 nozzle, I could stand on the damn vase! So incredibly durable suddenly.

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

Yes it it amazing how fast it is but it also uses a TON of filament if you keep the line width at the high level to make the part stronger. I normally print with .4 for everything and change line width to .8 when doing vase mode. I don't get the strength doing that but I do save a huge amount of filament ;)

[@RinksRides]

wanhao duplicator i3 v2.1 with MANY upgrades. Stock heater and block, Micro swiss all metal hotend, 0.4 and 1.2mm nozzles. The 1.2mm nozzle prints about 60% speed of the 0.4mm but finishes in half the time, much stronger at 240C for PLA and 1.0mm layer heights.

[@LT72884]

Im all about a fixed bed system, corexy style printing for speed.

[@DieSnider]

You need to test 3DSolex nozzles. Better melting with standard length. Higher speed and better layer adhesion.

[@deervalleyengravings3088]

Did you change any other settings. I changed the layer height on my genius, along with temp. Print didnt turn out very well

[@solo_la_fam]

i am having trouble with my sidewinder x1 i put a 1.0 nozzle and my print is just coming out right at all. i dont know what to do about this could you help?

[@cpayne8177]

I upgraded my Flashforge creator pro to a 0.6mm and the tolerances are way off. Seems that the additional plastic has a different shrink factor during cooling. There will always be the need for additional test prints before you get it right.

[@josipsarkanj9065]

Small parts..resin printer...medium parts...prusa style printer...big parts...corexy or delta printer with vulcano hot end...

[@johndoe5405]

I'm off to amazon to buy bigger nozzles cheers for the tip

[@iamthebest22]

I see you're using CCtree, how are they? I've been using Hatchbox, Amz3d, and Canada's Spool3d's, wondering how they are? I heard their new formula has a low chance of getting a spool that could jam 3d printers. Are you using their newest PLA version? Do you experience jams? I'm interested in trying it since their price is good.

[@ModBotArmy]

I have about 4 spools of CCtree. They are all PLA and I have had them for quite some time (probably a yearish). They have worked very well for me though. Very consistent and nice colors. Again, since I have only used their PLA I am not sure how their other materials are. I also would anticipate that this is not their newest PLA version.

[@ez-techdesign]

Hi, great video. I am on the business of sign i am looking to print letters using 3d printers, but they are slow. What printer you recommend that is fast and can print big. thanks

[@joemulkerins5250]

We should have SLA for detailed stuff and 1mm nozzles for bigger stuff that is the answer. Like a motorbike and family car 😅. Subd. Thanks..

[@avejst]

Great video Have a 0,6mm cobber nossel, have not tried it yet Thanks for sharing👍😀

[@ModBotArmy]

Put that nozzle to work! :D

[@RogerLoUSPSA]

Is there a link for where to purchase these new nozzles? Would love to try out 0.6

[@aboringuy]

From my experience, I have not had any problems printing at 0.3 mm layer heights on a 0.4 mm nozzle. Anyone else?

[@paulocabrita2055]

Same here! 0,3 layer with a 0,4 nozzle and if I want to do a faster print to prototype test.... i use 0,35 layer on a 0,4 nozzle and pump up the flow to 110%.

[@runtimus5743]

Hey, I have a sidewinder and i'm really having issues with cura right now, I swapped to ideamaker but getting odd issues to. What config do you use on cura? I used the 4.7 version on thingaverse, but still getting issues. I've calibrated my extruder twice, releveled god knows how many times and just getting no joy.

[@ironartur]

What are you printing for your Co2 laser? it´s a k40? are you sharing it somewhere? i´ve a K40 and i always interested in new upgrades.

[@creativecomposites6193]

Great advice,thanks!

[@HitchSteam]

Hi, how can you chose nozzle size in cura????

[@docholliday1811]

I haven't printed with a bigger nozel but I will now. I use a Delta style printer does nozel changing on these still apply? Thank you.

[@ModBotArmy]

Yes, a bigger nozzle will definitely work on a delta style printer. It should not require any additional steps. If you do end up picking up a larger nozzle let me know how it works for you!

[@quietflite7648]

Awesome post... food for thought

[@shinku5463]

Small nozzle + large print line width = faster and stronger parts due to higher nozzle pressure to pancake a wider line.

[@slicedpage]

I am wondering if this method would work for TPU, any experience?

[@ModBotArmy]

Yes! Definitely works for tpu! I used a .6 nozzle to create a gasket for my laser engraver :). Thanks for the sub!

[@slicedpage]

@@ModBotArmy excellent, thank you

[@DH-fc2os]

what settings should i change when using a .6 nozzle

[@madforit9661]

Good video mate

[@ModBotArmy]

Thank you :)

[@jacobrollins37]

I like small layers so I am willing to wait.

[@emaayan]

But you can do 0.3 layer on 0.4 nozzle

[@MrNlce30]

Same I'm doing that all the time.

[@emaayan]

@@MrNlce30 so there's no real need to change to 0.6 of you're doing 0.3

[@ModBotArmy]

You are correct you can do .3 with a .4 nozzle. However you will only be able to lay down .4 worth of material while the .6 lays down .6 of material so it is 1/3 more material being laid down which means less passes. It is not just about layer height but also how many passes it takes to fill a layer. I hope that makes sense it is tough to explain without images

[@ivangabriel3472]

Damn i wanna see the turbine working lol.

[@Nitrolord1]

Whoo! I pushed the 666 likes. 😈

[@Nitram_3d]

damn.. I went with the speed... I have to try a bigger nozzle some day ...=) kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnSnf4OmpNV0Z7M

[@henry67278]

Ngl old news

[@Mr_Pewpy_But-Whole]

i read the title and thought larger nozzle... pointless video dude

[@ModBotArmy]

If you read the comments you would see it was not pointless. It helped many people. Clearly you were not the audience.

[@gberi317]

Bro whats your email please