3d Printing Vases | FreeCAD, Cura and PrusaSlicer | Part 2 of 2

3d Printing Vases is a fun and rewarding use of your new 3d Printers. In this 2 part series, I walk you through designing a Vase in FreeCAD and then slicing it in Cura 4.X or PrusaSlicer 2.X.
The first video covers in detail using the FreeCAD revolve and loft features to create a vase. This video reviews the FreeCAD technique and covers slicing the models in PrusaSlicer and Cura. It also highlights a hidden slicer setting that impacts vase mode print speeds.
Part 2 - Content
00:00 Intro
01:10 FreeCAD Vase Design
02:48 Sketch Visibility
04:22 PrusaSlicer Vase Mode
07:26 Vase 3d Print Demo
07:36 Cura Spiralize Mode
8:56 Increasing Print Speed
11:23 forum.drvax.com
This is a link to part 1 of the series:
• FreeCAD for Beginners ...
To discuss this video head over to forum.drvax.com
A great place to discuss this is at the MakeWithTech forum located at forum.drvax.com.
Let's continue to learn together. Irv
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[@markemba]

FYI - This is video 6 in your FreeCAD for Beginners series while the "previous video" (aka part 1 of vases) is 7. They should be swapped. Good videos!

[@MichaelCampbell01]

Even in vase mode you can adjust your wall thickness with the slicer's "line width" setting. CNC Kitchen did a video on this and you can get up to 200% of your nozzle width with that setting and it works pretty well. (Around 250% it starts to fall apart.)

[@prosperousJ]

Love this series! I've learned so much so quickly from these. Thank you so much for these videos!

[@massimoborghini9724]

One of the few persons that I can understand also in English( and that's a lot for me). Congratulations for your capability to explain complex concepts in the easyer way . Thanks

[@MakeWithTech]

Thank you! 😃

[@Lumpacio]

Thank you so much for all your videos and especially this one (part 1+2). I printed my first (mini) vase yesterday on my Prusa Mini + with some blue Prusament and was so happy about the outcome, that I ordered some transparent PLA for even more vase fun.

[@kingkappa9916]

Great stuff !

[@ZevangBSB]

Another great lesson!

[@shahryarpasyar1481]

Thank You for These Nice series, Your Training is Very Useful for me and are very excellent, Now i can make my designed objects by FreeCad as a good and powerful open source soft.

[@adityarrao]

This is useful, thanks Doc 👍

[@billycameron1836]

Thank you, I am learning so much from your channel.

[@dominikvalecek]

You don't need to use bigger nozzle for bigger line. You can just set Wall Line Count for example 3 and Infill set to 0. Ou I almost forgot Top Layers set to 0 as well. This will do same thing like vase/spiral mode but with multiple lines and make that vase stronger and waterproof. (Vase/Spiral mode must be turned off)

[@0LoneTech]

You can set the wall thickness larger than your nozzle and still use vase mode. This means it has to squeeze out more plastic, which is okay as it's fluid when it leaves the nozzle. It also means every layer has squished out from center, so makes strong filled walls. Since this technique relies on more pressure than it takes to just get plastic out the nozzle, you may need to tune your temperatures and speeds. There's a limit to how far you can push it, so a larger nozzle does help. Staying within the outer diameter of the nozzle's bottom face is likely safe. The setting in Prusa-slicer is Print Settings - Advanced - Extrusion width - Default extrusion width. In Cura, it's Quality - Line Width.

[@dominikvalecek]

@@0LoneTech yeah but this can or will cost you quality of print. If you want nice walls, is better use my solution 😉

[@thefeet]

THANK YOU!

[@kylewatson4771]

Thank you for using free cad.

[@EnergeticWaves]

good video

[@andrewkoh261]

how to make vase stonger when using flash print as slicer software

[@anthonyhammond9896]

Hey Doc, really loving this intro into CAD since leaving Tinkercad and now I see how to design a vase. How would I go about putting a photo around the vase, basically turning into a lithophane ?.

[@kazolar]

you can overextrude -- and you'll get a thicker wall, i've gone to more than double the nozzle diameter and it works fine -- as long the extruder is powerful enough to feed plastic

[@MakeWithTech]

Good point however this will only work for printer without tight tolerances. When over extruding you lose precision. For most vase prints this is not a problem.

[@kazolar]

@@MakeWithTech ive had no issues printing with a e3d v6 direct drive bondech bmg extruder -- it's fitted with a .35 nozzlex nozzle with a copper heater block, and I've used it to print face shields at 0.71 extrusion and it works perfectly fine -- not as fast as my volcano printer with a .6 mm nozzles, but very doable, and very clean prints. Tune it right and you can overextrude up to 2x or more retain precision and get a bit more speed out of a printer -- works well due to the direct drive geared extruder, but I'm closing on 4500 shields printed/donated and I use the same extrusion value regarding of the nozzle size and all come out very clean.

[@tonytenbreock8546]

This section was weakened by the reliance on an 'extra' nozzle. Can you rotate a nearly closed sketch figure to create the appropriate Vase?

[@vamsikrishnavelpuri3365]

Hi @DrVax A request, can you please make a video detailing about replacing nozzles (esp. anet et4) without damaging the hotend. I've searched for this everywhere but with no luck. Hope you consider this request 😀

[@yasithhasaranga8553]

please upload some 3d slash tutorials

[@kobyki1374]

Hi, I’m a newbie to 3D printing. Got a question please: is there a way to see in REAL TIME what layer is printing in CURA and / or printing simulation too? Thanks

[@lakshminarayanaaithal1081]

Thanks, I find Design spark RS to be more comfortable and easy rather to FreeCAD. Have you have checked DesignSpark RS?

[@avejst]

Is there any differences in the two slicers output? Thanks for sharing your great video👍😀

[@MakeWithTech]

Both are excellent slicers with pluses and minuses. I plan to do shoot out in the future. In general I find the Cura supports easier to remove but. the Prusa supports easier to configure.

[@taylorpeterson5556]

Hi I’m trying to set up my BL touch. Everything works perfect except i am not able to adjust the z offset. The nozzle is to far from the bed and I have tried to adjust the z offset in the menu and I am unable to get the settings to save. I am storing settings once I finish the adjustments. I’ve run into a wall with this one. Any suggestions?

[@dominikvalecek]

Are you sure that you updated to right firmware (Marlin) with BL Touch from Creality? (Of course if you are talking about Ender 3)

[@dominikvalecek]

And don't forget check if you have in starting G-code set g29 after g28 (g28 g29;) in your slicer of-course

[@allinclusive5762]

Create a 2nd identical vase in freecad - only slightly smaller and cut it out of the first one. Then the slicer does not matter.

[@kazolar]

but its not vase mode, but a regular print, which is not the point -- if that was your goal, you can just shell the vase and the geometry will be consistent. Vase mode prints look nicer, no start/stops, no retractions

[@vincentlee4027]

Hi Dr Vax, regarding your BLtouch install video on Ender 3 V2, can i ask how that you know BLtouch is working?

[@arthurmorgan8966]

Dr Vax is like our cute mannered uncle. I wonder what he is Dr of.

[@meeder78]

From his website: A Bit of Background I'm Irv Shapiro AKA Dr. Vax. I am not an MD or PHD just a guy that enjoys technology. Over thirty years ago while working at Digital Equipment Corporation (DEC) and specializing in VAX (virtual address extended) computers, an early adopter of virtual memory, I acquired the nickname of Dr. Vax.