My OrangeStorm Giga is Dead

My OrangeStorm Giga won't be Orange for long.
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[@wilsistermans1118]

The OrangeStorm is a proof that not everything works if you scale it up. There are parts of the machine that should be redesigned. The printbed is one of the problematic parts. Layer adhesion is not uniform enough. Might be due to heat differences and expansion. Just a little draft can be enough. The motors of the movement system are not strong or durable enough for the large movements.

[@samflower6612]

If you paying that much for a printer I don’t want to deal with adjustment knobs on build plate to level the bed.

[@Nick-jf1il]

Their Neptune 4 pro suffered from the EXACT SAME ISSUES. This isn't a "scaling up isn't good", this is "crap products and QA will make a horrible printer at EVERY size" thing.

[@Altirix_]

not to mention at that size ridgitity becomes a really tricky beast. if you floor/surface isn't flat it'll show on the build plate as itll conform to the shape of the floor.

[@VacFink]

IMO its proof that scaling successfully can't be at a consumer hobby price point. All of those decisions were made to make the machine affordable but failed to recognize that the limitations added cost to failure points, and so not a viable experience. I'd image the lesson other brands will take away is that its not worth the damage to the brand to scale to this point at this price point. There are industrial grade machines at this size that work well, but cost 10x the price. There's a reason for that. I can only hope that these MFG find a middle ground where hobbyist can advance toward professional grade equipment without the massive financial leap that exists today. The right space IMO is where Joel suggests. Putting some more time and money to push it to the price and capabilities that make take the next step forward. Affordable, but certainly more expensive than the price point of the giga and less than the industrial grade machines.

[@bthatguy1181]

Those belts look way too small to be accelerating and decelerating that size print head at any reasonable speed. They should have used lead screws or at least a 30mm steel core belt and some servos. Its just a extra large piece of chineseium as it ships.

[@shawnmichaelis1609]

title should have been "my Orangestorm is GIGA dead"

[@Moosbuckels_sexy_brother]

you did it bro :D

[@cybair9341]

My suggestion is to take this "opportunity" to install a pellet extruder on the Elegoo Storm. Because this printer really begs for a pellet extruder. Using filament material is way too expensive to be practical for large-scale objects. EDIT: a minimum nozzle diameter of 1 mm might compensate for the lack of mechanical precision and problematic layer adhesion.

[@patrickderp1044]

i second the pellet experiment for the giant broken printer

[@philippeholthuizen]

I third it! 😃

[@TheCreat]

I'm not sure if the gantry can support this, cause pellet extruders are in a different weight class than normal-sized hot ends. At least those that would suit a printer this size.

[@cybair9341]

@@TheCreat - Experimentation will settle this. Greenboy3D has a pellet extruder that seems to work well without being too complex and heavy. When the printers increase in size, we have to expect lower speeds, cause the inertia of the gantry itself will limit printing speed.

[@roland_eiden7555]

I would love to see the pellet extruder mounted! Wish I had time and resources for such a project myself😅

[@Vaasref]

Calling it an "OrangeStorm" is tempting fate it becomes a "BrownStorm".

[@VincentGroenewold]

It may not be a specific Giga problem, but on the other hand... it is. Support being way too slow is a Giga problem and part of the experience. The center should not be an issue for adhesion, if it is, it's a Giga issue. Good to showcase and super nice to see it being modded (which still is a thing and why I stopped buying cheaper printers). :) I did learn a ton doing that, but at a point, you also see the huge amount of waste it produces when needed straight from the factory.

[@bthatguy1181]

Thats a "it was made in china" problem. Just think of how much fuel is being wasted sending parts of these to the reviewers who cant get them working out of the box. Looks like another pile of leftover last gen parts masquerading as a consumer machine.

[@EmceeMC]

So, I think you should make the arm into a giant “High Five" camera mount. Scan your hand and cut a hole in the middle for the camera. High five!

[@davidtobin]

And add sensors so we can measure high fives given to it?

[@Nick-jf1il]

only if the hand can be moved up and down the final brace, so you can change the high five you're hitting when ya feel like it......

[@davidtobin]

Yes!

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

I have been watching your channel for the past 7 years, I went from dreaming to have a 3D printer, to having a fire starter 3D printer, to a larger printer...to now having my own channel 3D sculpting terrain for tabletop terrain. I'm still new in my journey to making a business of it, but I owe to you and Maker's Muse and a few others for inspiriting and reinventing myself after a life changing accident. Thank you.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That’s so cool, I’m glad I could be a small part of your journey!

[@Nick-jf1il]

Joel, PLEASE DO NOT let Elegoo off the hook with this. Their Neptune 4 Pro had all the same issues you have had, and after a YEAR, they couldn't fix their issues. This sounds a lot like letting Elegoo from repeatedly sending out half baked hardware, and partially completed software. At some point, we have to hold crappy manufacturers accountable. But it seems the only time people hold them accountable is if it catches fire (see Bambu A1). At what point do we tell people NOT to use Elegoo? How bad does your experience have to be to NOT recommend a COMPANY? Because I honestly thought the last Giga video would have been enough........

[@TheManufacturerrrrrrrrrrrrrr]

Skill issue, been using their printers hassle free for over a year

[@LongDono]

@622.by.sunrise8 Ah, so both the previous poster and Joel are newbs who require special skills to make these particular 3D printers work, got it.

[@TheManufacturerrrrrrrrrrrrrr]

@@LongDono Yep, especially Joel

[@theglowcloud2215]

@@TheManufacturerrrrrrrrrrrrrr it's weird for someone who has no skills to say 'skill issue'

[@anthonylong5870]

The Neptune 4 had issues? Since when? I have put 100's of hours into mine and never had any issues with the machine. Leveling is fine, extruder is fine. Flow, Retraction, Cooling. all fine

[@BradClarke]

At the end of the day, the Giga is still a consumer grade printer in a giant frame. I'm curious if a single, gigantic PEI sheet would help, assuming you could find one or have one made. Even with that, you have that one spot where the four plates join, still the possibility of movement after heating.

[@rickmellor]

This is why I cancelled my OSG preorder after my initial excitement cooled off. I knew I wouldn’t have the energy to fight through these issues.

[@Liberty4Ever]

The OrangeStorm Giga was an audacious idea and kudos to Elegoo for trying something kinda crazy. I think it could have worked better if there was a single very flat bed that was designed not to flex when thermal cycled with a much larger nozzle and probably reverting to 3 mm filament - in other words, truly scaled up rather than scaling the overall dimensions but having the same low flow rate extruder and needing four heated beds. If I wanted to print four 300 mm x 300 mm objects, I'd use a 300 mm class printer.

[@woodwaker1]

This is where I give Prusa a lot of credit. My 5 head XL was not perfect when I first got it last fall, but Prusa has made so many improvements, in the software and hard ware that it is now almost perfect.

[@beaver.hacker]

Every time the word "weight" is used, he means torque. The weight of the 3D prints doesn't change but by holding them further from its center of mass, more torque is applied to his hand.

[@MrBaskins2010]

nobody gonna talk about how creality basically stopped talking about the CR30 (and updating it) while Ms. Wu remains a silenced by her government

[@RobMink]

Creality was done with and so seperated from Wu before she got her 'wings clipped'. Right up to the gov doing the clipping she was working with belt printers and helping move ideas forward.

[@DaiShuryoTechnus]

Wait, what happened?

[@sliverbaer]

That articulated arm is epic. Big high five hand? Live Air cam? Taco holder? Your patience with the Orange Storm is great. It is really frustrating. I am looking forward to the Blue Storm. Voron style?

[@Nordern]

Have you ever tried Primafix glue? I've only compared it against hairspray & glue-stick and it's insane how well it tacks the prints to the printbed at high temperature & it would be really interesting to see it compared to the nano coating etc

[@ScytheNoire]

Printer should have been named Elegoo LemonStorm Giga.

[@titopancho]

Joel, Ivan Miranda is you guy. he has build several printers larger than the orange Giga....

[@GeekDetour]

@IvanMiranda is a legend, indeed.

[@Z-add]

Dr Flo has a large pellet extruder 3d printer

[@supermomandj]

Gotta love seeing Elegoo reply to your last video on the giga saying that they wanted you to keep troubleshooting and now they’re suspiciously quiet.

[@SirLANsalot]

The Z offset not saving is an Elegoo problem, one that they, seemingly always have with their first firmware releases. As the Neptune 4's on release had the very same issue, which is something that stems from making your own version of Klipper instead of using a known, working, tried and true, version. I now have two Neptune 4 Max printers and absolutely love them, just don't love the Fluidd interface (will be changing that to Mainsail) nor the "elegoo version" of Klipper either (open Neptune eventually).

[@Reds3DPrinting]

Aw man! Im so sorry about the OrangeStorm not working out well for you and giving so much trouble. That vase turned out epic though! I was going to suggest putting the giant lamp on the wall near the orange storm to give that part of your shop a jumbo feel... Maybe itll still be possible once you turn it into the blue storm though? :D

[@XShaneX19]

I wouldn't fully compare 3D printing with rocket science but both share the fact that problems grow exponentially and not linear. The Orange storm is a great example for this.

[@_Turbocat777]

I printed that lamp arm when my printer was working, used it on my computer for a desk lamp and also printed a pink one for the partner as a bed lamp, sadly I think the pla dried out and cracked eventually and literally the only parts I have left are the lamp mount and shade now, all the other parts have broken or cracked. The main issue I ended up having was separation on the threaded parts of the arms due to the stresses under tension (also prob didn't reinforce the prints enough with extra wall thickness) (RIP giga, can't wait to see how you improve it)

[@segment932]

In my experience. When you scale up stuff by double, the problems goes up cube.

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

I feel your pain. The blob of death claimed my Ender 3 V3 SE thermistor. Now to figure out how to fix that, I am a user, not a tinkerer.

[@miniknights]

it's simple a wire with 2 leads. Buy the replacement part, disassemble the hotend until you see the thermistor screw, and then replace the Thermistor. Be careful not to screw the holding screw in too tight or you'll crush the wires. If you're nervous, watch some videos. If it's the heater cartridge, same deal just w/ the set screw instead.

[@patrickderp1044]

@@miniknights I BELIEVE IN YOU GERHARD GROBLER

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

@@miniknights .I have had to replace a thermistor once before. But the new ones are stuck inside. I cannot get it pushed out. The wires broke off right against the themistor. it is a bar as long as the heater cartridge. It is stuck inside.

[@miniknights]

@@MrGerhardGrobler if it's a bar as long as the heating block, that would be the heater cartridge, not the Thermistor. For that, find the small black hex screw on the heating block and unscrew it a little bit. That should free the cylinder. If it's a weirdly long Thermistor held in by a screw on the side, then you might need some tweezers. But I'm pretty sure you're talking about the heating cartridge.

[@GeedsGarage]

I had a blob of death on my QIDI X-Plus 3, but I caught it early enough before it got to the wires.

[@TheMNWolf]

I can only imagine that a one-piece bed will improve this thing massively. From what I've seen, it doesn't look like the design allows for thermal expansion of the bed pieces and I would not be surprised if they warp pretty badly once they're up to temperature.

[@peterkn2]

For your Articulated Arm, I would suggest 3d printing a giant lamp shade and light bulb, similar to to original but scaled up. The bulb can be translucent or while with an actual E25/E26 LED bulb or coiled up LED strips inside to light it up. At the tip, you can mount a camera. Lastly, you can make the giant bulb able to pop open to reveal hidden storage.

[@TinTalon]

Retro fitting the “printer” is such a cool idea. Not sure it’s a good idea but it could be. Try to make it into what it should have been or could be. Buy the best parts, hotend, buildplate/s, fans and nozzle. This could be pretty cool content. Live the videos Joel!

[@Mitch3D]

I think the bed needs to be a single piece of cast aluminum and a 800mm square Keenovo silicone heater and single 800mm flex sheet. Yes it’ll cost half of what the machine costs but at this scale even a $3000 printer that’s reliable is a good deal.

[@ccatlett1984]

The larger issue with a single heater that large, is the power draw when heating. You would have to vastly underrate the heating element in order to use this on a 15 amp circuit.

[@BelviGER]

Not entirely sure I'm with you Aluminium, absolutely. Single piece maybe but not necessarily. But definitely don't need a single Heater pad

[@darkracer1252]

@@BelviGER infact a single heater would be a terrible idea.

[@joaquinalfonsorosalesrodri5176]

haven't you tried or looked for a FR4/G10 sheet of the size of the printing surface, I think it would be a way to avoid having those problems in the joints, and you would have a flatter surface, Greetings from Mexico !!!!!

[@clutch2827]

I would be so pissed if I bought that and that happened.

[@stldenise]

Looking forward to seeing how you improve the bed!

[@IgorFonsecaAlbuquerque]

Wow! This is the biggest version of my model so far! I'm curious to see what will be installed on the end.

[@Z-add]

Plenty of companies make large printers. elegoo just failed at it at this low price point.

[@bigd1348]

Just imagine all the naked statues you could print on that giant printer

[@TheDarkPreacher65]

Blue Storm? No, No, Joel, you are making something more powerful than just a storm... A Blue Tempest.

[@theVariedLife]

When that thing came out and I saw how it was built I knew it was going to be a flop. Thanks for the video and sorry for your loss. Did Elegoo give you that for free? If so, then no big loss. But... ouchie.

[@ingmarm8858]

They have renamed the printers, it is now the Sh.tstorm Giga. What a phenomenal lemon.

[@4thfrom7]

That's exactly how my first 3D printer died. I tried freeing it up with the heat on, ended up crossing the two heater core wires and frying the entire mobo.

[@meawayfromhome]

Elagoo! more like Elapoo? you’re telling me that a man with the experience you have doesn’t know how to get prints to stick to the bed.

[@Quaker_parrot123]

I like how Elegoo decided to not put a sensor for whenever something goes wrong, on a machine thats ment for print times of multiple days.

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

The saddest part about all of this is Joe knowing his stepladder has steps on both sides and still climbing the steps facing the wall even though he could potentially fall because of the large prints blocking his view.

[@icarusonice2350]

Should print the wall-mounted support vertically so that the layers are not stacked in the same direction as the pulling force

[@LathanM]

I was feeling the same on the orange storm. It is a great project with some min9r fixable flaws. The hot end is an easy one and going to a single large plate bed with an edi current ABL would be perfect way around some of the limitations you have hit.

[@DaveEtchells]

I’ve used 3DLaq for adhesion. It’s quite expensive but it doesn’t take much at all and I find one coating can last a dozen or more print jobs. (Although maybe on the Giga with its serious adhesion issues you’d need to recoat at least the center before every print.) Worth trying, at temperature it sticks to PLA like … glue, I guess 😁 When it cools down, prints remove ok - they don’t just fall off, but with a flex bed, they can be pried off with fingers pretty easily.

[@WillowCreative]

seems like we need whambamsystems to make a one piece bed plate

[@woodwaker1]

The downside is it would cost almost as much as the printer. Their magnetic plates are great, but my Rat Rig 500 was over $300.

[@MrHeHim]

I learned back over 10 years ago on my Replicator Dual that i still have and still works to lock the screws in place for the bed. On my current printer with "only" i have a 300mm squared sized print area and every printer in between I've put an extra nut on the bed screws to lock the bed screw in place. Since, never have i had a print failure due to bed shift. I also get the bed about 2-3mm from fully seated to make the bed as firm as possible while giving just enough space to adjust. I also printed (in ABS filament) center spacers shafts to go in-between the spring/screw to prevent the bed from carrying vibrations and shift the bed that way. This was before people started using solid mounts.. Funny thing, I've been to lazy to put that on my newest printer because it's a bed dropper.. but totally made sense on the bed slinger i had before

[@3DPFactory1]

Great to see the giant bracket back and in use. I had such high hopes for the Giga. Thanks for testing so I didn't have to.

[@davidtobin]

Fun seeing the guys behind the camera!

[@PrintedFirstMessuredAfter]

Try getting a giant g10 sheet as a build plate that should fix the issue of bed adhesion and the gabs in the build plate

[@BeardedPrinter]

I love the Blue Storm idea! And I'll see what I can cook up for your giant lamp arm thing. It looks epic

[@Burnenbrighter]

A studio light might be handy on the arm.

[@billionairemaker]

Incredibly obvious what needs to be printed for the end ... A giant floating pcbway logo!

[@superuser13]

Again I have to say, a pei bed cover sheet to cover all four bed sections may cure a lot of problems on this machine.

[@EnnesArms]

Can someone please explain to me why a _[checks notes]_ two-and-a-half *thousand* dollar printer doesn’t have crash detection? That seems like a big oversight for a machine that’s already got adhesion issues.

[@03hVc01]

I wish he made a 3d printed ladder to put up those 3d printed parts... "On the next episode, I 3d printed a ladder!"

[@802Garage]

Def looking forward to content on upgrading the Giga!

[@lasersterling]

Love the huge prints brother. A man after my own heart! 🤣 Sorry about the Giga, that sucks. I know if anybody can make it better it is you!💯

[@DarrylAdams]

The perfect attachment for the arm? A life-sized Angus from Makers Muse's head. So you can worship the almighty hair

[@sigma682]

Dang, maybe I’ll wait for Bambu to make an XL printer. At least they’ve implemented some detection features to try to prevent problems from getting worse.

[@tylersnard]

Elegoo needs to add some closed-loop steppers.

[@Vatharian]

I vote for studio light diffuser attached to the end of the print - the umbrella looking thing to attach to it. This way it will both look and behave like a lamp. If not, than giant transparent umbrella, with spiderweb painted on and little 3d printed spider put inside of it. You can move it between the shots for giggles! I'm an arachnophobe, btw, and I think if you print the spider with bright color, it will be okay.

[@SeanTaffert]

The OrangeStorm also suffers from a serious lack of torque and belt tension issues. I've built 1m^3 machines before. Outfit it with some ClearPath NEMA 23 Servo Steppers and 15mm belts will help, along with properly support bearings.

[@JeffsPrints]

I'm excited to see the Bluestorm! Seems like it's currently an extra large printer with build quality of an Ender, needing all of these mods to make it actually consistent. I don't even think Enders are this inconsistent any more.This seems like it would be the perfect candidate for one of those Beacon Scanners after you rigid mount, rather than a 4,000 point bed mesh. Maybe a high flow Revo with a 1.4 Nozzle?

[@foxacoustics]

Moving beds on large printers are very problematic due to the starting and stopping of a large print. If you have a thick walled large item that has 15kg of plastic, that's 33lbs you are jerking back and forth. Large closed loop steppers would be a must.

[@Barbasnoo]

You forgot to remind me to fight for a cause I believe in and now I’m sad and lost and don’t know what to fight for!

[@B1GJano]

i remember printing that articulated light arm years ago for a way to adjust my webcams close to my printers! maybe someone can design a lens camera mount for you! Maybe I should reprint this knowing what i know know and make it stronger as my original print didn't work well because of weight and center of gravity issues

[@ericgriggs1325]

also add closed loop steppers to stop layers shifting

[@darkracer1252]

with a printer this big. i would be tempted to somehow put a grinder on the printer and make it grind down the heatbed to perfect flatness.

[@ToddRumbach]

Here's to a high five blue giga. It will be a glorious machine.

[@No_Worries83]

Haven’t watched the whole thing yet, but with any plastic welding done to strengthen everything, I have 0% confidence this project will succeed.

[@3DPrinterDoctor]

I called it about their machine. When you go to that scale it becomes like a CNC machine and standard hardware won't cut it. Main issues is backlash on the Z.

[@KenLord]

Ya i had a bad 'blob of death' on my MK3S last week. With a heat gun I got it off the hot end without breaking wires, or breaking the heat break (done that before). But my aim was bad, I also melted part of the extruder assembly, and the frame of my MMU2S. Rebuilding now, upgraded to MK3S+ and MMU3. ... any more cost and effort and it would make more sense to trash it and get a Bambulab A1.

[@BeefIngot]

This is a manufacturer issue. They simply dont care about ux. Bambulabs big difference was caring about ux. All these companies just consistently miss that.

[@christurner4799]

I wonder if by putting a small cube-shaped void in the center of the model, so that it wouldn't print within those 4 inter-corners of the build plate, if you could avoid having the same issue. Just a small enough void that it could then bridge over and continue the print upward and give you a small little cube mounting point that you could use to mount it either on a stand or the wall

[@UserName-ty4nv]

I really think the funniest possible thing is to put a regular sized lightbulb at the end of fhe 600% arm

[@FauxHammer]

Brilliant video Joel - I'm not going to comment much on My Giga, but having just gotten it working thanks to Jessy. I got through a full roll of filament before I realised the run-out sensor failed and the belt for the right side Y axis, had come off. yep.... just fell off! WHYYYYYYYYY!

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

Change nozzle to bondtech cht vulcano 1.8mm (Maybe pellet extruder ) Put one big piece of aluminium on the bed (or screws under beds) Anything around to make it at least 70% enclosed maybe made from PP corrugated sheet (its like cardboard...but from plastic) Better extruder (you dont need printing speed with big nozzle....use something strong with maybe gear reduction At least 80w heating element for extruder

[@jakejager]

I'd put a steel plate between the plastic and bolts holding it to the wall. Give those bolts more surface area to hold that thing up...

[@outdoortherapy6596]

Having the Giga on rollers doesn't seem like the best idea

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Nah, totally fine :)

[@grapes008]

borosilicate glass to spread the heat more evenly between each of the heat plates

[@LukesLaboratory]

I have some very specific ideas on how to make improvements in all the categories! :)

[@TheAtomicSoul]

The large screw/bolt needs printed horizontally, with a small section of the bottom of its length flattened for better printing. (Maybe even print the bolt with threads on each end horizontally with a separate bolt head on both ends.) I've never understood WHY print beds are adjustable: Shouldn't their entire surface be flat on the frame?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

It used to be the only way to level against the nozzle - but now with super accurate probes, seems like rigid mounting should be the default

[@nicholasbackus492]

heated beds are always cooler around the edges, I bet the center of the build area has a cold spot that makes a cross where the beds meet. using 4 beds at once is probably not viable.

[@m0eser]

Time to print some flowers for the vase

[@DarrylAdams]

Good idea on modding the Orange Storm. I dunno if there is an option beyond 3mm filament but this could be a good industrial printer rather than just a large core xy.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Oh I have some ideas.

[@foxacoustics]

I wiped out 3 hot ends in the first month due to the blob of death on my N4MAX. I have since started my first layer at .35mm, even if printing the rest at .18mm layers. This gives a bigger margin of error for the first layer and since doing this I've not had another blob of death and I get great bed adhesion.

[@davydatwood3158]

Since you mentioned the CR-30, let's all take a moment to pause and think about Naomi Wu, the champion of that printer, unjustly silenced by the Chinese government for being an outspoken queer woman with a Uyghur partner.

[@dragnet53]

That is what I do to my new 3d printers. I always upgrade them better than factory specs.

[@reinforcedoctocopters2993]

You need to reinforce the threaded parts with a steel bolt through them. These parts have such little shear tension they will break I promise.

[@BeardedPrinter]

You should print and build an upscaled lego light saber for that lamp arm. I just finished designing a part that would replace the "lamp_holder.stl" and would interface with the Lego hand from the Lego light saber model files scaled up 400%. Of course it would involve you building a lego light saber at 400% scale, but who wouldn't want to work on THAT project?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

THIS IS A GOOD IDEA

[@3dPrintCrafter]

Love the extra large nuts and bolts! I am going to try printing those next on my XL.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

YES!

[@KevinDC5]

ive been spraying my pei build plates with a single coat of hair spray when i get them. no problems since with adhesion.

[@JayEm16]

Its so funny i printed that Manta the same day you posted your pick and I too used High Five Blue!! Lol i cant wait see Bluestorm Giggity giggity!😂😂

[@Sembazuru]

Maybe too big of a project for your Orange/BlueStorm, but it might be interesting to see someone build up a huge build-plate similar to the tiled XL bed. The individual board tiles are available from Prusa (though a bit pricy at $22.49USD a pop without any intelligent controller or thermistors or wiring, etc). And you'd need to source a spring-steel sheet and coat it yourself. But it would make for an interesting project. Might be able to get away with an array of smaller stick-on silicon heater pads stuck to the bottom of a sheet of aluminum plate?

[@jz2188]

This is like a scaled up Tronxy X5SA, and they were a complete basket case of a machine, until I upgraded mine to a VzBoT3D-Vz-330. Chuck it in a dumpster (or make it into a dumpster), life is too short to waste on unfinished untested toy design junk, especially if the manufacturer doesn't even acknowledge you debugging the machine out of your natural kindness.

[@camplays487]

One idea for the end is (and I may revisit with more) another printer? Like a small one that can make project themed miniatures for every stream, or a projector

[@portalteam5832]

why did you print the most important/high stress parts in exactly the wrong orientation? A little extra support is sometimes necessary to make something that works as intended.

[@shanechristiansen38]

Sorry about that experience, I felt it could have been better...

[@karmachameleon326]

Me halfway through the video, making bets with myself about where the failure point is going to be… 😂

[@cnc-maker]

Life size Michael Myer’s attached at his back, to the articulating arm. Halloween all year round. 👀