3tc/2tc Camshaft Selection

[@Pinkprotec]

This has been extremely helpful! deserves more attention was very well articulated, thank you!

[@lionelmohamed6577]

You probably dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times you can watch pretty much all the new movies on InstaFlixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend during the lockdown :)

[@gavinjoel905]

@Lionel Mohamed yup, have been using instaflixxer for since november myself :D

[@1978Rolla]

Randy is somewhere side eyeing you, lol I feel the same way about him. It is imperative to do your own research on your build, it’s the best teacher. Good info 👌🏾

[@tylerregen]

You my friend are a genius!! Thank you kindly for this!!

[@eduardobenassi3072]

I just started building a 3T and this video showed up hours after receiving a bunch of timing components, gaskets and studs. Nicely done, google. Also, great video 👌

[@hemilove]

Incredible video nice work very informative keep these babies alive

[@Robone18]

Awesome video my brother thanks a lot for this info.

[@tommyllbean]

Good info to know. I’ve been shopping for a hotter cam and looking into getting the billet aluminum rocker arms from Titan Speed Engineering so now I know how much more lift and duration I’ll be getting. 👍

[@1978Rolla]

Which cam did you get and how do you like it?

[@tommyllbean]

@@1978Rolla I currently have Isky’s 260 degree cam in the car. It’s perfect for the street with a broad power band and flat torque curve from 3k-6k RPM. I did purchased a 290 deg cam from Isky with more lift but I haven’t installed it in the car yet. I’m waiting on the machine shop for porting & polishing on another 2TC head before I drop in the new cam.

[@1978Rolla]

@@tommyllbean Nice, did you do any other upgrades to the internals to comfortably rev to 6k?

[@1978Rolla]

@@tommyllbean I’m currently running a 2TC but I have a 3TC to be built

[@tommyllbean]

@@1978Rolla yes. I have TRD/Carrillo Rods, Wiseco Pistons, and ARP head studs and rod bolts. The cam and valves are the only thing limiting my rev limit at the moment. That’s why with the new head I’m getting bigger valves from Ferrera. More flow at the higher RPM to compliment the hotter cam.

[@Chiintoo69]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge sir

[@edwindonkey5911]

Thanks for the video !

[@taurres]

please upload more informational videos especially on choosing carburetor sizes.

[@tougeclassics9443]

I've decided to make this the next video I do instead of suspension. Being there's gads of information in suspension and none on carb sizes and tuning, this will be the next move for the channel and it's viewers.

[@hesarex1342]

thanks man it helped me alot !!!!

[@mred9335]

Awesome video👍

[@flapwheat]

I realize this video is a 2.5 years old, but I have a related question with a backstory. I've had my 3tc hanging on an engine stand, plastic wrapped for probably 15 years. The rotating assembly is in the block, life got in the way, and there it sits. I bought a used Crower (I believe) cam from BRD that Randy had listed on eBay. Naturally, the cam card is long gone. I called BRD, shortly after buying the cam and told Randy that I was the purchaser. He commented that it was a really aggressive cam for a street car and mentioned that I'd have to have my machinist shorten the valve guides. The pistons I fitted were the domed 89mm Wisecos. In your opinion, should I just purchase another cam so I know what I'm working with? I've got a great machinist who can help me get the geometry right, but a camshaft is cheap compared to a bunch of shop time. Thanks for any advice you can give. This is an excellent video, by the way.

[@tylerregen]

I think you've answered your own question :)

[@jtto6364]

Thank you Cheers:):):)

[@CarlosRodriguez-ld8zp]

Hey buddy, you think a 308f schneider cam is too big? I’d be going with 89mm wiseco pistons, eagle rods, p&p head and 45 dual webers

[@MrSteak-je4gy]

Wish I knew enough about how to use this info I’m just trying to get a little more pep out of a 2tc

[@LOLCATZ1fr]

I often come back to this video whenever I have doubts. Question: I'm about to send my stock cam to a grinder in France. I'd like to replicate the Schneider 296F grind. Should I just give him to Schneider specs mentioning it is or calculate the actual specs duration and lift ?

[@tougeclassics9443]

If you’re trying to replicate the schneider cam I would just send it in to schneider themselves my man. They’ve designed the cam a certain way and you know it’ll work. However if you know a reputable cam grinder who cam work those specs to the 1.32 rocker arm ratio than give it a shot. However remember that titan makes a 1.4 ratio rocker arm

[@joseechevarria2352]

​@@tougeclassics9443 Hey guy I have cam specs for you to explain,I would like to know is a bit bigger to factory specs.

[@KingBiggie]

What Schneider can would be better a 264,274,284,284-hl? What would each of those cams be good for?

[@tougeclassics9443]

@@KingBiggie it all depends on your intended use. On their website it shows you the powerband of each cam on their respective pages. In summary however, typically the lower the duration of the cam, the less overlap it has which usually shifts the power curve lower in the rev range and vise versa. In the real world i’ve seen the 264 and 274 used alot in street applications where the lower power band is still NEEDED for daily operations but a little extra top end is WANTED. Remember, it’s allowing more air mass and fuel to enter the engine which will yield more power. The 284 has noticeably more overlap and a good bump in duration over stock and is usually associated with more performance. It’s also introducing more scavenge which “hits” past 3000 or so rpm which relays into more power midway to up top. While there’s a ton of these on the street, they can be dogs to use daily. Higher compression is a must if you want some kind of power to get out of the hole before 3000 rpm. The 284-hl is a “high lift” version of the standard 284. It can be used for high comp NA or boost. Remember though, large overlap and boost don’t typically like to play well together unless you’re either A.) throwing alot of boost in there or B.) the engine is constantly living at high rpm. If staying NA, very well thought out induction and exhaust systems are key to getting the most of this cam to maximize on the scavenge effect, and as stated before, higher than stock compression. Hope this helps!! Cheers

[@TOYOTETO]

Saludos desde PR 🇵🇷 sera posible hacer un video dando degree a un motor 3t para aprender ya que dependo siempre de otro que le de degree al motor 🙄

[@mandytuning]

Pendejo, voy esta semana pa pr, traete un motor y te enseño

[@quademclemore7568]

Need a little advice if anyone wants to chime in I’m looking to regrind my stock 3tc cam to 274F from shneider so my question is will I need new pushrods? and if so can someone give me a recommendation on length, also if someone has a set of new stock valves for a 3tc I will buy them off you in a heartbeat

[@Robone18]

I send to make a stock cam regrind with Schneider 316F but I haven't installed it yet. I'm keeping my stock push rods for now but might upgrade later to chromoly but I want them stock length.

[@brandon65960]

Looks like I’m ordering closer to 292

[@vasilispapadellis8022]

Nice video but,how can i calculate the rocker ratio in an engine that i dont know?

[@tougeclassics9443]

The ratio is found by measuring the valve contact center to the pivot center and dividing that by measurement from the pivot center to the pushrod center.

[@vasilispapadellis8022]

@@tougeclassics9443 thank you.