4 Worst Mistakes In BICYCLE CHAIN Maintenance. How NOT to do it. SickBiker Tips.

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[@mikkoolavijarvinen3653]

The more you read and watch about chains, the only thing you learn is that people (manufacturers, mechanics, posters on forums, people on KZbin) disagree about absolutely everything.

[@jakubpukovec7755]

Agreed. There is no single solution. World is not black and white and everything can be looked on from a different angles of perspective. No single approach is the only right one. Majority of things (if not all) can be done properly using different techniques and all those usually work fine. A have completely different approaches with my bikes. I usually don't spend much time maintaining my old work commuter bike, I rarely lube chain, rarely clean it. In the salty winter time I also usually haven't used cloth to clean the extra lube on the chain. On the other way I ride this bike 99% on tarmac only so the chain doesn't catch dirt particles as easy as on dirt trails. On the other side on my full suspension I clean and lube the chain before every ride (usually) - when I wipe the lube off with a cloth, then it needs re-lubing after every ~50km or something, otherwise the chain is getting noisy. BTW the first approach (don't care the maintenance) is not that bad considering the saved time and the difference in the life of the components is not significantly different. So why I just spend so much time caring about the full? Crazy ;).

[@locoshaggy]

@@jakubpukovec7755 so right. I always always clean my chain shimano xt 10v whith gasoline, shaking it dive it for several minutes after clean all my bike and transmission whith cif and never never never have a problem of any kind of a broken chain for years with any chain change. I also use wd40 dry lube one drop per roller link and that its all for me.

[@nms789]

@@jakubpukovec7755 Yes, it mainly depends on cost of components vs. cost of maintenance. I do the same on my bikes - the one with 100$ chain gets more care than the one with 10$.

[@FightFilms]

@Markus Patients I would not do that with anything narrower than a 9 speed chain, personally.

[@terrytorial99]

*No they don't.* Just kidding.

[@henmich]

1: Don't reuse master link 2: Remove packing grease 3: Don't use alkali or acidic solvents 4: Dry the chain. There I saved you a bunch of time. You owe me a beer.

[@nighttime9539]

🍻

[@emankcin1701]

I didn't read until the end 😊

[@dc.tm28]

🍺

[@dc.tm28]

🍺

[@X41N3]

​@@emankcin1701 same here

[@stuarttill5571]

I have a great tip. I ride in the caribbean climate, and chain rust with rain and salt is a big problem. Also the sand and dust is collected into the chain quickly if oil is used as a lubricant (even dry oil)... and then the chain requires frequent major cleaning. I found a solution to use rust resistant chains like KMC X10SL Gold, and then use a wax lubricant. The result is great lubrication, no need for frequent cleaning... and no rust!

[@bicyclist2]

I've been pushing pins back in my 8,9, and 10 speed chains for over a decade and its worked just fine. Some of the advice was very good. Thanks.

[@christianalboroto7574]

I'm glad that pushing pins back isn't as bad as everyone thinks since I also extended my chain from 116 to 118 by adding links that the pin was already broken and rode it more than 100 kilometers climbs.

[@larrydaniels6532]

@@christianalboroto7574 It is really great advice, until it isn't. You may be a super wimp, unable to put any chain to the test! My legs are too important to risk a chance of injury in order to SAVE $3!

[@ethancropp600]

If the pin comes out completely how do you get it back in????

[@cryora]

@@ethancropp600 maybe with a replacement pin where it is beveled on one end, instead of flared on both ends.

[@dalegreenaway]

You saved me a lot of time here, thanks bud.

[@mick2d2]

Thanks for the video. Been using a quick link on a 160Nm ebike for the last 5000km with no problems whatsoever, certainly recommend this system. Most chain cleaning systems, such as Park tools, completely soak the chain in degreaser. Surely if this was such a problem, they would use a different system. After cleaning my chain in this way (once it's completely dry) I use a ceramic lubricant on each link bearing, and must say, I'm happy with the results.

[@evelasq1]

I have used the original pins when breaking the new original chain. I have gone through over a thousand miles with no issues. It has been done many times on every bike that I have used. Cleaning the chain and relubing is a great idea.

[@cozmo4694]

i used to do it like that too, but since now you can just put a quick link in, i don't really see the purpose of that

[@kenelder9615]

I agree, the idea that the chain is weaker as suggested in this video is silly to me, I would have to use my car to break a chain, ha ha. But now I use a quick link and I bought a special pliers on ebay to remove the quick link.

[@gketchup777]

I used a re-assembel chain on all of my bikes even my trial bike and it never broke even under serious pedal kick jumps. You just have to do it correctly. Flatten the bolt head a tiny bit after pushing back, then loosen back the chain by moving it a bit around so it won't stick. I am amazed how every "expert" starts to reinvent everything that worked for literally a hundred years.

[@PaulKentSkates]

Same.

[@DEAR7340]

I have had mixed results with this. Twenty-plus years ago, it was foolproof. I attribute this to narrower chains being less robust than the old heftier ones. If you reassemble at the rivets, I think there is *some* risk of getting it wrong; it requires an artful "touch & feel". As for myself, I have resorted to reusable quicklinks, since I wax my chain these days. The repeated installation and removal makes it a numbers game.

[@hcho8164]

I think you're doing it wrong. In order to break the chain, you have to clean the chain regularly, and remove the exact same pin each and everytime. Otherwise you would be wasting your time trying to replicate the same result. Master links are not that expensive. Connex supposedly makes the best, according to another youtuber.

[@larrydaniels6532]

What you are describing is called "peening the pin". Sounds like you are a single speeder, great, go for it. Most adults use multi- speed chains and I would never suggest your method on these chains, the manufacturers have way better solutions.

[@QoraxAudio]

Really depends on the chainline... how much the chain is 'bent' by this offset. So if your chain is on the outer sprockets, the chances of it coming apart is way bigger when running it with a broken chainpin.

[@the1andonly]

Thanks for making this video. I have definitely made most mistakes in the book and still forget about cleaning the chain sometimes. Winter here in Alberta is an absolute chain killer. You think the chain is perfect and two small rides later it looks like rusty mess full of road grime. For my next winter bike build I'd like to go with an internal hub and a Dutch style chain enclosure. I like to home brew my chain lube from sewing machine oil and graphite powder. It seems to work well, but it can leave nasty stains on your pant legs. I believe the graphite is an inexpensive way to get better protection.

[@danfuerthgillis4483]

Reusing the pin is no problems for 7 speed chains as the chan links and pins are wider and tapered on both sides. This is only a problem on bikes which use thinner chains ( more than 9 cogs) where the pin is short so it compresses more thus you need a new pin.

[@Riza898]

I wish I'd seen this before my bike tour last year!!! I had problems with my brand new chain splitting... but this where I'd split it at home before my trek... I now see why it didn't hold!!!

[@JoshBoisTV]

Very helpful! Excited to take even better care of my mountain bike chain. Time for some more biking adventures!

[@Czteryry]

I always carry a quicklink with me and I recommend it to everyone! It saves ass.

[@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene]

I always carry a rivet remover tool, more dependable and versatile.

[@lazurm]

@@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene I carry both. The quick link (I use the Connex brand because it doesn't need a tool to put it on or take it off) because it's fast and safe and doesn't require precision work. I carry 2 chain rivets because it doesn't take up much room and is light. The chain rivet tool comes with my multi-tool (the Park MT-3.2). Thankfully, over the past 20 years, I've only had to use this three times, twice for me and once for a fellow cyclist.

[@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene]

@@lazurm Yes, thankfully not too many times using a chain tool too. Had road tar get stuck on the chain and then pulled through the derailleur before I knew it. The derailleur broke off, sent the chain into the spokes, got caught in the spokes and bent the chain in several places, broke spokes, and the wheel went out of true and got stuck on a chain stay...all in a half second. All from just a little road tar. Been careful of that sticky fresh stuff ever since. Destruction of a drive train and wheel, broke off the derailleur hanger too. Expensive.

[@lazurm]

@@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene That's amazing and potentially VERY dangerous! The good thing is that, assuming no one got hurt, it's a great cycling story once the years roll bye. :)

[@HeatherSpoonheim]

Agreed. I keep a quicklink and 2 new pins in a little compartment in my pump. I also carry a fancy multi-tool that has a small chain tool built in. I should buy shares in Crankbrothers.

[@TSKseattle]

Before the 6+ sprocket clusters came along, it was perfectly normal to use a chain breaker to push the pin part way out and push it back in to assemble. This was because the pins protruded out from the plates a small amount, so you weren't tearing the swaged edge off. I've been working on bikes for 45 years, and my Park chain breaker pliers have been quite handy.

[@larrydaniels6532]

And... what? I've got a bit more experience than you claim. Yes, I've taken plenty of chains apart in that fashion as well, chains (like every other aspect of biking) have gone through a world of change since those days, the quick link is one of the best things to happen to chain removal and replacement. The chain cleaning tools (the ones you use with the chain in place, that have a reservoir of degreaser) are also a better way to clean a chain and way quicker,too. When the Shimano replacement pins first came onto the market, their chains were given an undeserved bad rap (primarily due to mountain bikers not understanding how to replace these new style chains) they blamed the chains failure rate to the design, I never had a single Shimano chain snap. The fault was the lack of proper procedure on the part of the mechanics.

[@philipking4794]

@@larrydaniels6532 Wait, you've more experience than the guy who has been working on bikes for 45 years, and you've "never had a single Shimano chain snap". Yeah, I don't believe that. Sorry, but that's not possible.

[@larrydaniels6532]

@@philipking4794 I can honestly say that is a true statement. But then, I'm educated and can follow instructions. Much of the problems arose out of disregard for the new Shimano system requiring special long pins that were snapped off. The main problem was error of the installer, did not understand you could not push a repair pin out to insert another in it's place. This was very early on before the majority of installers understood the reason it was different for these chains.

[@philipking4794]

@@larrydaniels6532 Oh, you're educated, now I understand. My bad. When Shimano went beyond 6 gears, most mountain bikers moved to SRAM power links which were far more reliable (and useful) than Shimano's replacement pins. The Shimano replacement pins were garbage compared to the power links. And even though you may be far more educated than most bike mechanics, I have never met a bike mechanic, ever, who couldn't properly fix a chain. With all due respect, I don't think you have any idea what you're talking about.

[@larrydaniels6532]

@@philipking4794 And I feel the same about you! The early Shimano chains were not my favorite and that is why I chose KMC as my personal chains, however as a mechanic many bikes came to me and I would often recommend replacing the chain, many declined. Again, I never had any problem with the pins and certainly no failures. Based on YOUR assessment, your view says to me that you were clueless on the proper installation procedure.

[@amgluk]

I always use the extruded pin a second time to extend a new chain from 116 to 120 links. The trick is that it is not enough just to press the pin back, it should be slightly riveted at both ends.

[@MarkkuS]

Jeah, I have used it on many a chain and I run them like 5 times the kilometers. Just do it right.

[@raawaa1648]

After degreasing/cleaning and washing the chain, I use a compressor and blow the water out of the chain. This works well and then lube. Good video.

[@narutofan4eva1]

I don't have an air compressor, but what has worked for me is putting a chain in a small container and blasting my hair dryer on HIGH for a couple of minutes. Evaporates all the water out.

[@mikoformiko]

thanks for the insights. i just bought a new chain and was about to install it AS IS, but i have decided to follow your wise suggestion and clean the outside well. my old chain was SOOO dirty! i will also clean the derailleur and all the drive sprockets while i am at it...

[@jeffbrunton3291]

Great advice as always. What I take away from this is that for some of the big debates, there is truth in both sides, and you are pointing out the correct middle ground eg remove or keep the original grease - well, remove it from the outside, keep on the inside. Re wash chain with water or not, - well, use water, but then dry carefully and relube soon after

[@richupson1319]

When I replaced my chain (same model) I followed the manufacturers instructions which were NOT to remove the wax the chain come coated in and never degrease. With the previous chain I had followed the cleaning products manufacturer which were to degrease on a regular basis. Current chain has done approx 1/10 of the miles the previous chain did but shows about 25% worn, so at the moment I’d have to say that regular degreasing appears to extend the life of the chain. Obviously regular degreasing effectively means removing the grease/wax. But has to be said in this case it’s seeming like the chain manufacturers recommendations are geared up to selling more chains. Clearly there’s a happy medium where the right amount of cleaning and degreasing will best efficiency of mile£‘s.

[@andrewday7446]

I take very good care of my drivetrain. i have never replaced a chain. i had my synapse for 5 years and put over 8000 miles a year on it. have a new caad12 and i hope to maintain my bike well enough to have similar results. love the channel by the way, love cannondales,and love the insight and attention to detail in your explanations. let me know if you need some help testing products.

[@ryanbriggs4938]

Knowledge is power and I love to ride! With many literally thousands of miles of my Cannondale M500, it's time for the chain to be replaced. Thankyou for the info!

[@thedarkenergist]

Thanks for this! About to measure and break my first chain - I really appreciate the tips before I dive in.

[@BuildBreakFix]

This guy sadly died 15 hours after watching this video 2 years ago cause his chain fell off and he flipped his bike, then a car hit him and tossed him 50 feet onto railroad tracks where 5 trains ran him over. His last words where fucking KZbin videos!

[@kaspervestergaard2383]

Unlucky. @@BuildBreakFix

[@bones2532]

Helpful tips! Thanx! My tip for removing the original sticky grease from the chain: use some very thin fluid oil (like gun oil for example; my favorite one is "Ballistol" because it works perfectly and is completely organic) instead of a degreaser. It's good for cleaning and lubing all kinds of components. But you have to use some thicker lube (I prefer liquid lube with silicone or teflon) for riding because it doesn't last long on the chain. Ballistol also works pretty well for removing moisture after cleaning or even removing rust or hardened residues of old oil and dirt. I once managed to get an old MTB chain moving perfectly again that had become completely stiff after someone had used some awfully sticky Motorcycle chain spray on it (NEVER EVER do that!!!).

[@crabtrap]

a cheaper route is seafoam in a spraybottle. it is naptha and shale oil. it cleans and light lubes for apllication of real bike lube

[@roncooke2188]

I have fitted hundreds of chains with a push in link and they have never given any problems. I don’t use the break off type of pin, just the push in link that comes attached in the chain. Good points you mention interesting video thanks for great advice

[@zaroart1967]

I have always backed the pin out and pushed it back in. Never had a failure, and I use the same technique on my single speed too which takes much more force that a geared bike. I also wax my chain which makes it last twice as long as oil. To each, their own, but this sort of contradicts what I have been doing for years successfully. I do have a quick link in every bike bag, but have never had the need to use one. Thank you for your insight though, I'm glad it has worked for you.

[@calcagnolibero]

I started mountain biking in 1990 when then backing the pin and pushing back with the special tool was the only way to go and if properly executed didn't cause any problem. I used to join two chains for my tandems and had no issue. I've been using quick links since they was introduced for conveniency.

[@HarmonicResearch]

WD-40 changes from a solvent that penetrates into a thick grease that lubricates after a couple weeks of the volatile components evaporating. This makes it ideal for a chain because it will penetrate down to the o-rings and be held there by it's surface tension until it changes to grease. Only the excess will fling off if the chain is used before the conversion process takes place. I spray it on my bike chains with cardboard under the chain to catch the over spray. This cleans the chain. Then, I wipe off the excess, leaving the small amount that penetrated. It, also, is an excellent anti-oxidant to prevent rubber cracking from oxidation. I use it on my motorcycle seat before winter storage and it prevents cracking. Salt spray testing in an environmental lab showed it to be the best at corrosion prevention.

[@Dan-un4vt]

That Funny ,,, I've been braking my bike chains for over 30 years and never had trouble reusing the same pin !!!

[@greghall7887]

Same here Dan

[@snittybruh1110]

Same

[@gatoryak7332]

I knew a guy who skiied avalanche terrain for over 20 years until he triggered the avalanche that killed him.

[@richardfernandez7363]

Same here

[@Rinkel80]

Is it a 7 or lower speed chain?

[@JamesPliny]

Thanks for that advice. I did not find such good advice elsewhere.

[@mikeosinski50]

Great video thanks, I am new and getting ready to replace my first chain

[@acap650]

WD stands for "water displacement". While one may may or may not use water based cleaners for chain cleaning when the chain gets wet from cleaning or rain WD40 will drive away the water from the rollers (and the rest of the drivetrain). The WD40 should be wiped off and proper lube applied.

[@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene]

Back before chains came with links, the only way to pin the chain back together was to reinstall the original pin. This is the way it was done by everyone. For 35 years I assembled my chains by pushing back in the pin used when cutting to length. In 30 years my chain never broke, even though I was a pro racer and trained with extreme pressures on the chain, it never broke. Are todays chains different? Back in the old days we used 6 speed freewheels, and there were no such thing as "speeds". All chains worked on 10 or 12 speed road racing bikes. It could be your mechanics skills causing the chain to break, it is very important to reinstall the pin by pressing it to a perfect seated position. I have used plain old WD-40 for bike chain cleaning and lubing, it will last 3000 miles for a high skilled rider of 200 pounds. I spray on and immediately wipe it off, then lube the jockey pullys and the derailleurs with the same lube.

[@nogocux]

Exactly my thoughts.

[@333wheeler]

deff mate . Never had a problem ever using the chain tool many many times .. Some of those quick links look fragile to me .

[@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene]

@@333wheeler For sure, very thin!

[@jonowens460]

​@@333wheeler Had one junk out on me, brand new equipment as I just refit bike; was told don't use😂 I used old pins before...

[@vashon100]

"In 30 years my chain never broke" That chain should be in the national bike museum. LOL

[@MrSmoothasf]

i put a factory lubed kmc chain in water for a week and it didn't rust, at the same time i put a degreased chain with wet lube on it in water. after a week the kmc looked like new still, the bike lubed chain looked completely brown. i leave it on and always will

[@gderhi16]

Very excellent advices, congrats and thanks! Personally, I clean my chain only with what we call in France 'Essence C', applied on all my transmission with a clean brush and a trash can below to collect the drops. i don't know exactly what sort of hydrocarbure it is, but it's very fluid and compatible with chain grease. The main thing is to avoid to clean its transmission with water and soap like so much people do! It prevents the new and clean grease to reach all the parts of the chain and transmission because of hydrophobe / hydrophile conflict.

[@Eng586]

I’ve reused pins before and it’s fine to do it I’ve never had a problem with reusing it and I even race sometimes with it and it’s fine

[@dreamingdust7667]

True

[@leslietennant1]

You clearly put a lot of effort into how you are presenting this in front of a camera. Well done!

[@scottyb.2949]

Working on the chain gang !!!

[@QoraxAudio]

I'm using chainwax. Whenever I have a new chain, I shake it in a bottle of turpentine. Then I oil it, drive a few hundred meters so that the oil gets deep into the rollers. Finished off with wax. Keeps the inside of the chain lubricated and the surface that contacts the sprockets.

[@victorvillarongoarce674]

Thank you for the tips on keeping the chain well maintained.I did the same in the past to save time and money.you can cause an unwanted accident,you made lots of sense,again thank you

[@Sentinel4261]

good infomation but 40ys riding and useing the same link connection never made any problems for me. thanks anyway.

[@onkelLB]

That's right. Nowadays, with quick links and derailleurs, I don't need to split and connect chains, but I have dony it many times and never had a problem. I never did it on a 11 speed, though.

[@iowa6464]

I used to do it but had two occasions where it did disconnect.

[@paultreneary]

Two or three of my chain tools are actually designed to allow splitting, re-linking and specifically that last little re-adjustment to gap the chanin to avoid link stiffness. These chamfered pins are a comparatively new thing and i've ridden countless thousdands of miles with chains that have been split and re-combined with the original pins (though my old 3-speed did have the splittable quick-link). One reason I split/remade a chain was the rotate 3-chains to one cassette tip to reduce wear (it was said that a chain wore out 3 times faster than a cassette)

[@moquiti]

Currently I'm recovering from a broken femur and patella suffered in a fall caused by a broken chain. I can truthfully say that after my 47+ years of riding, with doing my chains "the old way," that there's always an opportunity to learn a better and a safer way. I hope you don't have to experience what I have, and that you take SickBike's advice to heart. Thanks for the video!

[@debianowns4393]

Get well soon bud, thanks for sharing your experience.

[@ginti4725]

Yes, very good info, I've been riding now almost 60years and have come to the very same conclusion. I would add after any wet ride make sure you dry your chain, I keep a old news paper handy and dry and clean the chain till it is dry to the touch then re lube the chain the next day or before your next ride, (wedge your chain lube through your spokes so you don't forget to lube the chain before you ride. )

[@tavien.j2047]

smithy george thanks for the tip, learned something new

[@marianneoelund2940]

If you are using a dry type lube, it should be applied the evening before you ride, so the solvent has time to evaporate. Do not apply this type of lube immediately before you ride, or during a ride.

[@sewingfordolls3323]

thanks..I am a newbie when it comes to repairing my bike

[@nathanksimpson]

This was probably the most concise video on chain maintenance, with some very good suggestions. Thanks!

[@dimensionsofearth]

I agree fully with the degreasing the chain lightly as the stickiness of the grease can attract a lot of grime unless your in the wettest conditions ever. I work at a bike shop and we always lube the new chains thoroughly and that is enough to clean that grease off and leave it nice and slippery. Nice vid dude tons of good info

[@changenoways9555]

so do I use degreaser and then lubricant or just lubricant??

[@dimensionsofearth]

@@changenoways9555 I use lubricant only if you want to use degreaser I would recommend WD40 as it's not too harsh use a rag instead of soaking the chain and a nice chain oil after it has dried overnight clean the chain again after lubing so the chain isn't wet on the outside and it will stay very clean for a long time

[@inferno4001]

Definitely thoroughly degrease a new chain! If you're using wax lube, this is even more important!!! And as in the video, don't leave the new chain too long in a jar with degreaser. Maybe for a few hours.

[@marcusmartin5758]

I've been using the old pin on my chain and it works just fine.

[@MikeZak101]

i have always used white spirit in a tub and a paint brush, dry off with a compressor nut white spirit evaporates also, followed by a high quality chain oil, never had a chain fail in 20 years of riding on and off road

[@lencycler1]

love your videos Sick....great common sense advice that is fun to watch...

[@mtbboy1993]

The muc off degreasers work well, I have tested both the dry degreaser & the one in the green can,but the green can one msut be rinsed off with water, I used it to clean off very dirty cassette & chainrings few times, worked great,but most times jsut using muc off bike cleaner & motorex biek cleaner works great on cassettes, I only use degreaser if its very dirty. I just changed a Kmc chain, some of the links were not moving smooth. I degreased is as good as possible, then I lubed it very well, so the chain was soaked in lube,and I wiped off access. I have done this before, with no issues. I lube the chain so often there will never be too little oil, I wipe off the chain after almost every ride, and re lube it. But I tried just re lubing the chain with finish line dry lube so it was soaked in dry lube, it loosened up the chain. The grease the chains come with works like glue,the chain will be very dirty, even when its not in use just standing inside for months.

[@jomsshygu1572]

How about when waxing the chain? I thought it's better to completely remove any grease including those inside the rollers so that the wax can stick to the chain, hence the use of petroleum followed by degreaser then isopropyl alcohol

[@daveyJ213]

Great information. Thank you for posting; much appreciated.

[@eflip5869]

Can't wait for the next video about 4 big mistakes in cleaning a saddle.

[@skainest]

Good video and I learned something. For competition I guess it is important info. I ride about 3000 miles a year and have never had a chain break. In fact, I have never had a chain break! I am 64 and have ridden forever. Never cleaned the chain before I put it on. Reused the pins many times to get the right tension. I still ride a 10 speed Bridgestone and it is enough of a challenge for me. Dirt is the enemy of moving parts on a bike and I strive to keep it clean. I wear the chain out in about a year. The links stretch out and damage the sprockets. So the info hear is probably for competition biking.

[@crabtrap]

my guess is you bike is chrome plated garbage. when you start riding higher quality lighter bikes....you'll see the need for this info and no, i don't mean for compition

[@sylvaingilson7091]

Watch " Oz cycle" channel videos about chain cleaning and waxing

[@thierrylerinckx1340]

Yes I agree. That's the best way by far.

[@Philobiblion]

Thanks. Helpful in seeing the big picture.

[@jn01996]

Hello Sick biker, Thanks for the video. I have a quick question for you. Can I keep the original grease on the new chain if I will be using it only on my smart trainer? (no outdoor activities) Many thanks for your time.

[@stevenfoleyuk9404]

Always clean with wd40 as it desperse water out of the chain and also it has lubracating properties which leaves a fine film . Then oil the chain with a suitable chain oil . Perfect

[@tekener59]

Doing that chain connecting on thousands of bikes since the last 25 years in my shop - nothing breaks

[@thomas930409]

He didn't emphasize the actual risk of reusing the pin, which is braking the mushroom ends of the pin, rendering it more prone to slip out of the plate. That's it, nothing 'breaks', the link disconnects from the rest, thus 'breaking' the chain. Though, cheap chains don't use mushroom pins.

[@alwayslearning7672]

@@thomas930409 Good point but what I find is I end up with a stiff link when I push the pin back in.But it rolls!

[@markc17]

@@alwayslearning7672 I always push it a bit too far in, then push back from the other side, that opens the link back up properly and stops it being stiff.

[@temagerasimenko]

Great video, really useful! Thank you, SickBiker!

[@bogdanpetre7033]

Excellent explanations and video! May I use MoS2 Oil for lubrification or cleaning (rust cleaning oil)?

[@andrewlabat9963]

KMC quick link, been using them for years with zero issues.. I put one on every time I get another chain..

[@henmich]

It made me laugh that he said NEVER, NEVER, Ever reuse them... Man, I've been doing it for decades with no problems of any kind... Who knew I was living soooo dangerously?

[@andrewlabat9963]

@@henmich Same here.. have about 7,000 miles,, to include taking it apart for cleaning multiple times on one alone..

[@nigeljohnson8022]

"The quicklink can be used many many times" unless it is a one use only quick link.

[@smitajky]

Different people have different needs from their chain. "Super sticky" doesn't win races. But it doesn't get thrown off the chain with water or heat. So it persists for longer and gives better protection for the pins. I have tried many lubricants over the years but the best one for me is one with a mix of light and heavy oils where the light material gets the oil to penetrate into all those tiny crannies but then dries up over perhaps an hour. Leaving a heavy lubricant that lasts. The outside of the chain can then be kept cleaner without compromising the lubrication.

[@lucholatinoamerikeli]

many thanks. Cheers from Peru

[@allansadventures9459]

well done mate...might go ahead and wipe down my new chain now...thanks

[@tonyy5482]

Best performance chain lube (according to VeloNews tests): *paraffin wax* (i.e candle wax). Clean your chain with you favored solvent/degreaser, wipe and then soak the chain in molten candle wax (use 2 pans: outer pan water, inner pan wax). Subsequent waxes (once a year or less for me) usually don't need cleaning, just pull the chain through a piece of newspaper once (it is likely still completely clean as dirt doesn't stick much and any dirty wax tends to fall off). Lasts for ages and produces and incredibly clean looking and clean to use chain. It's wonderful, quiet, long lasting, high performance, clean and cheap! Recycle all those unwanted gift candles from W. H. Smiths, etc. from a few years back! ;)

[@bigshnitzeljesse]

Are you still lubing chains with only candle wax?

[@alexoliverdj]

This should be mixed with PTTFE powder, 50 gr every 500 of paraffin wax…

[@johndiscala9696]

Really helpful and I know this will come in handy.

[@VegasCyclingFreak]

I've used gasoline a couple of times to clean a dirty chain. I just let it evaporate outside for a couple of hours and then re-lube it. Works also for de-greasing dirty cassettes too.

[@pkelly20091]

Nice advice. For 10 years, I've often reused the same link connection. It's a mildly tricky thing to do with cheap tools, but i did it anyway, and it always worked. I'll never do it again, thanks Mr Sickbiker. Little by little i'm losing all my bad bike habits.

[@crabtrap]

hogwash! i've been storing my bike outside for 29yrs with zero problem! its still leaning agianst the same try where i left it 29yrs ago!

[@TheCorrectAnswer]

I'd say, from recent personal costly experience, watch chain stretch closely. You might be able to extend the life of a chain for thousands of mile with these tips, but your drive train components are also going to be completely worn-out in the end. If you attempt to install a new chain on those worn out components you'll most likely get really bad skips on your most frequently used gears. Replace 9 speeds at .75, 12 speeds at .5, single speeds at 1.

[@amyx231]

…how bad is chain stretch? I don’t have the confidence to change a chain myself, and I just got a shiny new bike I’d like to keep pretty. I have the lube, I don’t plan to ride in rain…by my math my first 1000 miles should be worry free. That’d be about 3 years by my estimated use. So I think I’ll be fine? I read about what gear to park in. Consensus seems to be…no one agrees. I think changing gears adds stress and wear on the chain and components, but I’ll still do it cause it helps ride easier. (2-3-4 only, on a 7-speed shimano gearset).

[@crabtrap]

@@amyx231 its always better in the long run to cycle thru your frt and rear gears.....otherwise you start getting dried pivot points and cables

[@amyx231]

@@crabtrap unfortunately, I’m not strong enough to use anything above 4th gear. Too high a resistance.

[@drsead]

A very nice clear explanation and easy to listen to and great points. Thanks

[@tropezando]

Naughty solvent shake initial prep + wax maintenance has been good to me, so I think I'll stick to it. Can't beat a master link though!

[@s0012823]

I always repair the chain with the same pin. Never had an issue.

[@Howard0102]

same

[@adamharris2674]

Well he had to come up with some "very important" stuff to say..

[@iSOisoleucine]

I'd have to disagree with the last method - strongly too. As a chemist, most nonpolar solvents WILL not be acidic, since they any sort of simple acid (save for exotic acids such as p-TSA) will not normally dissolve in mineral spirits and the like. However, the container method/ultrasonic cleaners work extremely well because ooooh boy does it clean up chains extremely well. So well in fact that you will strip the chain down to bare metal. In this respect, the chain will get oxidized by the ambient air extremely quickly, even more so if there is moisture. Lastly, to displace any residual solvent, I typically use isopropyl alcohol/denatured alcohol, since they pull water extremely effectively and evaporate quickly; which is useful to immediately wax/relubricate the chain, free of any other residual solvent or dirt.

[@eduardlopez4307]

Hi there idol! Just want to ask if i can add more link on sram xx1 eagle chain. Because i change my chain ring from 34 to 36t. Do you think i can add or connect more link from the link that i cut before the first time i cut it. Is there a new pin to buy or required to put before i put the additional more link? Thanks in advance

[@peterkizer6163]

You make an excellent point on the "original" grease that is on a new chain. THAT grease is there to protect the chain during storage - not for actual use. Put another way, "storage" grease is not the same as "use" grease.

[@jordidiego2149]

You missed most important part of why you should keep the chain clean and lubed. It's because ride with a dirty or rusty chain deforms quicker the drivetrain, and if you use the same chain for too long the result is the simliar. All chains (specially shimano ones that seems to be made of butter) stretches and this wears down cassetes and chainrings teeth quicker because their teeth acomodate to a stretched chain. Chains are much cheaper than a cassete or chainrings specially nowadays with 1x11 drivetrains. So is better to do not use it for too long because if you doing then when you replace it, you'll have problems because the new chain and the deformed teeths won't match.

[@seme6872]

as we say in Russian - “if your hands grow out of your ass” then probably you should not ever touch the chain at all. I’ve been using the same pin after chain removal (for cleaning) on shimano 11sp chains maybe dozens of times. no problems

[@lazurm]

Se Me: The reason you've had to use your method "dozens" of times (!) on something that hardly ever occurs in typical circumstances is precisely because you're using the same pin! Is this a joke?

[@carpediem19999]

@@lazurm he says for cleaning which I guess he does often!

[@ElliotFlowers]

Is that the Shimano 11 hand arse cleaner I have heard about?

[@smitajky]

I live on dirt roads so I get a LOT of gunk. I also ride 400 km per week. I have found that steam cleaning the chain is good, followed by immediate lubrication with a solvent/grease based lubricant. This penetrates the links easily but the lighter weight oils evaporate leaving a good solid lubricant layer INSIDE the chain where it is needed. Depending on the chain I can get 20 thousand to 30 thousand km out of each chain. Of course it is rarely a good idea to replace the chain after this much use without also replacing the rear sprockets as a minimum.

[@budman123052]

Good content, simple and useful, thanks!!

[@jasonjones3494]

I'm a complete bike noob but have a reasonably broad understanding of mechanics. I recently acquired a old felt hard-tail... I pressed out a few links from the rip. Punched the previously removed pin back in, then saddled up with confidence... it ran like a hungry toddler for several days. Unfortunately a few weeks ago I was in a holding wheel-stand on a steep incline and loaded the crank with awe 245 lbs of man steel I possessed. Long story... long. Threw the chain and face-planted my naughty midget in the frame so hard that even the word "hard" said aloud still makes that midget wanna turn inside out... moral: Don't Do That ISH!

[@peglor]

For all the people who've been doing this for 30 years, up to about 10 years ago doing this wasn't a problem and if you still use BMX type chains or bin your chain as soon as it hits 0.5% wear you'll probably still get away with it. Chain technology has moved on a lot in the multi gear systems though. Chains from 9 speed up are too narrow for there to be a decent factor of safety on the friction between the pin and the chain side plates, so opening and rejoining the chain with the same pin is no longer safe. Incidentally Shimano claim (Correctly in my experience) that their 10 speed chains are both stronger and more durable than their 9 speed ones. They also shift way better, to the point where I use only Shimano chains on the geared bikes I have with 9 or more gears (I have bikes with 1, 7, 8 9 and 10 gears). If you run the whole drivetrain until it wears out you will get a side plate popping off as your warning that the chain (And cassette and chainring) are done. There's almost no degradation in shifting, but a little more noise towards the end if you run chains like this. Overall the cost is about the same unless you're running SRAM 11/12 speed cassettes or Shimano XTR but you spend much less time working on your bike, which is something to consider if your time is valuable to you. Throwing lots of slightly worn chains away is pretty wasteful too. Once Sachs moved to powerlinks on their 8 speed chains (Probably 10+ years ago at this stage), there was no manufacturer that would recommend pushing the same pin in and out to join derailleur chains. Incidentally Shimano recommend breaking the chain at any link except for the joining link and joining with a new pin every time to avoid wearing the holes in the side plates of the chain too big. Newer (All 10 and 11 speed) Shimano chains have an inside and outside too - the links with things printed on them should face towards to outside of the bike when the chain is fitted correctly. The joining pin should also be to the front of the outer plate it presses in to in the direction the chain turns and when shortening the chain, links should be taken off the end that finishes with inner plates rather than the end with the outer plates as then the joining pin goes into a fresh hole in the link plates. The requirement to remove the grease the chain ships with before fitting the chain is complete rubbish however. Any chain manufacturer I've heard from recommends leaving it on as it is designed for the chain and on my bikes it certainly keeps the chain running nicely for longer than any lube I add afterwards (Mainly because I suspect it's put on at high temperature, so it flows into everything, so at room temperature it's stiff enough to resist being wiped or washed off).

[@philhouck3560]

There is no better way to lube a chain than to hot soak it in a combination of paraffin and motor oil. No dirt and very smooth shifting.

[@mwolfe38]

I think SickBiker just meant to remove external grease, not the grease from the inner part of the chain where it actually needs it. I recently installed the same shimano chain and had this experience. I left the factory grease on but after a quick few rides around the neighborhood on paved road (not even on trails yet) and it was collecting a lot of dust and dirt just from that. I wiped it down with a rag for awhile (no degreaser) and then lubed with my finish line dry teflon and it seemed much better with less dirt sticking to the chain.

[@larrydaniels6532]

Hate to tell you, Shimano started the long replacement pin chains in the mid to late eighties, almost 40 years ago! If one were to simply use a chain forever, long before any plate will pop off, you will experience chain skipping, under intense pressure the chain will skip with sometimes disasterous results!

[@jamoyme4475]

thanks for the informative video. had it safe in mind

[@carywatmore]

Thanks for this video. I learnt a few things today. 🙏 what i really want to know is which groupset offers the best durability? TIAGRA or 105?

[@sergion1406]

I normally lube my chain every month or so, and clean it with special device using degreaser only. Its not perfecly clean after but if you repeat it few times it will. Of course its a waste of degreaser and time but at least i'm sure its not breaking! Thanks for video.

[@1Patient]

A) The instructions go into the garbage with the packaging as soon as new chain is removed. B) The Pin that is in the chain, prior to breaking chain, is pushed through but not removed from chain for Reuse...Always. C) There is no removing of moisture from chain, once lube is applied and bicycle is used daily and left outside, and or used in elements. I changed my chain and sprockets once over the life span of bicycle, because I striped down the teeth so much that teeth would not bite chain anymore. I ride 365, 4 Seasons, in the rain, snow, sleet, and heat of summer, dirty, dusty, snow banks and puddles full of salt and grit...covered head to toe from road spray and otherwise environmental conditions at time of ride. You have very clean and well manicured hands and fingernails...

[@jdgreens9268]

I appreciate the video thanks for making it.I also appreciate all the comments left below, Most about the proper ways to clean the chain, a lot of food for thought thanks everyone.

[@balinsteenkampcpt8985]

Very helpful, thank you again!

[@ericwarburton]

I use KMC chains. I don't use the master links. I break the chain and drive the pin back in. I've been doing this for 30 years without a problem.

[@Simon-Simon-Simon]

i just tried new campagnolo 11 speed link piece of shit broke 2 aluminium pins and wreched chain so had to break 2 links and add links did old school way like you do pins all have no ring or ribs on one side anyway any way tighter with old pins always tight joint but when use supplied link slides in way easier love to see how pro mechanics do it :) think old way

[@michaelstleger728]

Use quicklink all the time for years on all our bikes - just take the chain off to clean both it and the bike- easy. Never had a problem at all ever!

[@farquell5782]

yup. i just switched to kmc with the quick link. one of the best things i have done. cheaper and better.

[@michaelmcfadden4397]

I have never had a chain break but I saw it happen to a friend and my balls hurt in sympathy, to hell with your 30 years if the man says there is more risk of a chain break I'm using a new pin.

[@tomboniboitomboniboi]

Hi Eric, Full disclosure, I'm the Connex chain importer. Back in the days of 1/2 x 3/32 chains (6-, 7, - and 8-speed chains) there was enough meat (thickness) to the outer links that you could push pins out and back in. However, as chains have gotten thinner, the outer plates (the ones that hold the pins) have also gotten much thinner than they used to be. Further, modern chains are now riveted to the outer links. If you break the rivet, as you do when you press out a pin, you'll absolutely end up with a weak link if you press it back in. The outer plate is too thin to hold it well, and the rivet that used to be there won't be. Of course, I'd like you to use Connex and the Connex link. They're the best, longest-lasting chains on the market. But whatever chain you use, breaking the chain and then driving the pin back in is no longer the way to go. If you want to know more about Connex see: www.cantitoeroad.com/Chains_c_7.html

[@MrBruisah]

Possibly the most important thing to do - regularly check the chain with a simple chain-checker - if it's at/beyond 0.75, replace the chain (and certainly before you hit 1). Much cheaper to replace the chain before it wears your cassette and rings to death...

[@stephencarman1118]

Andrew Bruce more importantly prevention of injury to gonads

[@ShermanSitter]

So true! ...PS, I never had to do this back in the 5 and 7-speed cluster days! :) Love the chain checker now! (one of my bicycles is hanging on at a solid 1.0...uh oh...)

[@paultreneary]

Never done this and I still have the rings that I put on a bike back in early '80 (yes 1980) that seem ok and that've been on 4 or 5 bikes and 3 of them were commuting/pub bikes that had their chains greased every 6-9 months and I used as such for 13 or so years (I've had other chainsets since on other bikes) - they'll go back onto their original 600 arms when I do a replica build of my 1980 bike (though the arms look in worse condition!) I guess they don't make 'em like they used to.

[@ShermanSitter]

Paul Treneary - I completely agree with all your points. I have a classic cromoly frame bicycle that will out live ME and its still my favorite by a long shot! I do see the value in the chain checker though. the new 11 speed chains are thinner and more delicate. of course, you can still spot a chain that needs to be changed by eye (or feel), but its just nice to put a number on it. makes me feel better. :) what is your classic bicycle? i have an old set of "600" wheels (axles), but now I buy 105s instead of ultegra. (maybe I just like numbers better?) :)

[@paultreneary]

It's all circa 1978-1981 and nothing better than an old Holdsworth Mistral (531 F&F) with Super Champ rims on Campy hubs and gears (1st gen Rally long cage and Neuvo Rec front & levers), Weinmann drilled levers and brakes, 600 (Arabesque) arms with either Dura-Ace or 600 rings (a detail now lost in time - I had a non-std 53/40 pair) Campy pillar, Brooks Pro and Cinelli stem & bars - it turned out I built an Audax bike in 1980 so when I severely bent it I bought a Thorn Audax in '96 which I still ride (though all bar the frame, stem and bars has been replaced/upgraded) . Re 'numbers' - as new the Thorn had a mix of whatever needed to be good - MA40s on XT hubs, 600 shifters but only RX100 calipers and an Exage chainset

[@PunjabiCyclist]

Thank you for this video, very good advice.

[@AKSKMY]

Hi. Is there a way to ensure that after cleaning the drivetrain that black color oil wouldn't be present anymore? It seems like even tho after I wash, then put Decathlon's any weather hybrid lube (Green color) it will quickly turn to black after a ride. And I'm pretty certain I scrubbed and clean the chainwheel and casette pretty well too.

[@Frenchylikeshikes]

Advise to the world: tried today to replace my chain. Worst mistake: do NOT take out the pin completely. Other than that you'll be ok.

[@georgedervishi4291]

why

[@georgedervishi4291]

would you do that

[@a20axf]

Yep made this mistake recently, a lot of swearing followed.

[@georgedervishi4291]

@@a20axf because you can’t get it back on

[@a20axf]

@@georgedervishi4291 I did eventually get it back on, the issue was holding the pin itself. Once I got it through one part of the link I could use the chain tool as normal again. Perseverance was needed.

[@wayneproud2822]

hi Shai, how do you know the sticky grease is storage / transportation grease and not for operational use. Do you have some info from Shimano? i don't believe any shop mechanics remove the grease, but i am all ears?

[@cannondany]

www.kmcchain.eu/MAINTENANCE

[@crux321]

I am a bike mechanic and the direct word from shimano is to leave the stock grease on. I cant link the video as its an industry training site "shimanotech" and requires a log in. But in this video about installing their chains they go out of their way to dispell the "myth" that you should remove this stock lube. I can see however that it could be smart to wipe off the outer links just to keep things clean.

[@ivansavchenco5636]

Maybe you are a good bike mechanic... I don't know. Maybe there is really a video where shimano representatives say that we should leave the stock lube... But really have you ever ride it? If you say yes and everything was ok then maybe you ride a sterilized room only))) I rode lots of lubes as well as the stock one and the stock one is like the best magnet for road dust. The dust becomes an abrasive really fast and the chain doesn't work for more than 2-3 k km. And with wax lubes I ride it is about 4-5 k km on the same chain. PS sorry for my English I am not the native speaker.

[@Tullebukk75]

Shimano answer here: www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/chainwear-challenge-quick-interview-with-shimano/

[@wayneproud2822]

Interesting

[@kumarshanSK]

Thank you so much for a great video. thank you!!

[@PiefacePete46]

It may seem pointless commenting on a video posted five years ago, but someone might read it! I am just getting back into cycling, but I come from a background around precision engineering. The first method only cleans the non-moving outer parts... it may stop you from getting oil stains on your socks, but it does not remove the gritty build-up from the contacting inner surfaces, which is where the friction and wear is taking place. (Someone may have already made this comment... I did not have time to read every one of 1332 comments!)

[@oneyearorange]

Another great tip is when you insert a new pin you should always insert from the inside out. The keeps the side you break off (which can stick out a little) from rubbing against the cogs.

[@larrydaniels6532]

If either side "sticks out a little", you've not done it correctly. The key is to push the pin through, when you feel it is good, take the chain off of the chain tool, see if the links are rotating freely, if there is a drag, put the chain tool back on and push another 1/4 or 1/2 turn just enough to get the plates to swing with no drag. Now you can snap off the extra length of this pin!

[@pukki34]

I dont clean them anymore with any degreaser. I just wipe them with a rag after every ride.

[@yuchuuba-naritai3466]

I blew my chain and it pulled off the derailleur hanger after 2 days , fixing with mistake #1 :D now I need a tutorial on derailleur adjustment.

[@davidbryant7474]

Great content. Very helpful. Thanks

[@rogerbergman676]

1. EVERY chain manufacturer advises NOT cleaning chain by shaking in solvent, because it dissolves lube that is inside the links, and that is where you need it most to prevent wear and tear. Also, it is nearly impossible to get dirt into that space anyway. KMC, Shimano, Campag, SRAM, they all recommend brush, wipe, and clean outside of links. If the chain gets so gross that you don't trust cleaning only the outside, then go ahead and soak the chain, but plan on replacing it sooner than normal. 2. Most lubricants will displace water. In fact WD-40 was invented by the space program as "Water Displacement 40." It is not a lubricant, but more of a solvent. Use your favorite lubricant after WD-40, if you use WD-40. (Yeah, I know WD-40 now has a whole line of products.) 3. Yes, check wear on your chain and replace around .75...........IF you have a 6-7-8 speed. Park recommends changing 9, 10, and 11 sp chains earlier. 4. There are several brands of connecting link, and they are not universally interchangeable. I'm pretty sure that Shimano does neither make one, nor do they allow you to use another brand. Experiment at your own peril. (I have used quick connecting links on Shimano, that worked just fine; I don't remember which brand.) 5. Rust on the chain is a chemical change in the metal. When the manufacturer says not to use acids or other rust removers, they are probably warning against use of chain that has compromised its strength, as well as admonishing against dissolving whatever lube remains inside the links, where you need it. Roger Pedal Pusher Bike Shop, NYC

[@mastersofharmonica6200]

I restore vintage bikes and as a rule, toss the chains and replace. They test out as stretched, often have rust on the INSIDE, and are junk as a rule to my mind.

[@wwolfdogs]

Sorry pal, shaking chain in can of mineral spirts/or other solvent is the ONLY way to get sand and grit out of rollers. WD40 is nothin more than mineral spirits and 3and1 oil. Boeshield t-9 lube WILL penetrate to interior of chain. Next time you think your chain is clean, while your WD40 is still wet hold a two foot section of chain between fingers and twist. I guarantee you'll hear the audible sound of grit inside the chain. By the way I get around 1500-1800 miles of off road usage with Shimano XTR chains. The chain "experts" who preach this crap are the same idiots who tell people to wash their $5000 bike with a garden hose. By the way, I've been riding and/or working on bikes for 65yrs.

[@edensgardenshed9622]

wwolfdogs we need people with your experience to make videos showing the best proven methods of bike repair and maintenance. How do you wash a mountain bike without a garden hose?

[@timdodd979]

I always liked Triflow as a lube. I'm lucky you have an ultrasonic cleaner at work. Simple green seems to work well in it.

[@s0012823]

A chain is just connecting plates, pins and rollers. There is no internal mechanism....

[@ryanfoster6926]

I'm 2527 miles into this last year's chain. For about the first 1000, I took great care of it and saw no stretch. I've not lubed it for the last ~1200 miles *at all* until today. It's about a .5 stretch. This would be the first time I've ever done that. I may just keep ignoring it as log as it doesn't get wet, and checking the stretch. Buying another chain for $10-20 every year before it's very worn is a lot cheaper than the lube and my time.

[@glasgowbrian1469]

It’s the chain ring that’s expensive! A worn or stretched chain will ride up the teeth and cause a sloped edge. And that’s when the chain keeps jumping off them under pressure. Lube cost is irrelevant by comparison.

[@1Patient]

@@glasgowbrian1469 I concur. I destroyed a beautiful Super Record drivetrain with Stronglight Chainrings by not checking the Chain Ware, and General Abuse, no lubrication, gritty chain, no regular cleaning...

[@velosapien]

I've been cycling 42yrs and over 350K km. I have never used a new pin when joining a chain. Now I only use SRAM chains. Always cleaned with petrol/gasoline or turpentine after every 100 km or rainy day. They mostly last over 5000km to 0.75% stretch. Now I only use a Barbieri cleaner and mucoff wet lube. I used to use the Park tools cleaner and squirt lube and found the park tool cleaner does not submerse the chain and the rotating brush sticks, squirt lube only works in warm weather therefore it flakes off in the cold.

[@binaryvenus5432]

thanks again for your valuable information.👋