#40 Part 2: Fitting a Stay Alive Capacitor Unit to a Hornby TTS Sound Decoder

This is Part 2 of an in-depth two-part series looking at home-made stay alive devices. In this video, we look at adding a stay alive/keep alive unit to Hornby's TTS sound decoder.
If you wished to add a stay alive unit to Hornby's R8249 decoder, the steps would be similar (although the negative leg would have to be soldered directly to the negative side of the rectifier).
We made the stay alive unit in the previous video (Part 1 - Making a Stay Alive Capacitor Unit), and if you've not seen that video, you can watch it here: • #39 Part 1: How to mak...
Please note: the steps covered in this video do require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not extremely careful.
+ Video Contents +
00:00 - Introduction
00:20 - A quick recap
01:20 - Examining the decoder
06:08 - Soldering it all together
14:52 - Testing the solder work
16:10 - Fitting it all into the chassis
18:05 - A word about CV settings
19:08 - Testing the stay alive unit
20:53 - Conclusions
+ Components +
You can buy items used in this video tutorial using the affiliate links below. Using these links helps to support the channel and is very much appreciated.
Hornby TTS decoders (Amazon): amzn.to/2PbRM9x
Hornby TTS sound decoders (eBay): ebay.to/2S1P4Ca
Capacitors (15,000 uF 25v): ebay.to/2AljFnF
Resistors (100 ohm 1/4w): amzn.to/2yzLtDx
Decoder wire (red & black): ebay.to/2NR9fj1
Decoder wire (Multipack): ebay.to/2PGEYoK
Diodes (1N4001 50v 1A): ebay.to/2CXBifB
Diodes (1N4001 50v 1A):: amzn.to/2ODFqYo
Heat Shrink (multipack): amzn.to/2PdO0N5
Heat Shrink (various sizes): ebay.to/2EvWI54
Kapton tape (10mm x 30m): amzn.to/2OBEpjB
Kapton tape (various sizes): ebay.to/2R2H2aU
Liquid Flux Topnik No Clean (Amazon): amzn.to/2Al6HpP
Liquid Flux Topnik No Clean (eBay): ebay.to/2CXy7EO
0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: amzn.to/2NT7pOy
0.3mm Lead/Tin solder: ebay.to/2S6Jpe0
Hakko Soldering Station: amzn.to/2CVLzca
Blue silicone electronics mat: amzn.to/2Pbv7ug
A2 green cutting mat: amzn.to/2P8aKy3
A1 green cutting matt: amzn.to/2P8aKy3
#StrathpefferJunction #HornbyTTS #StayAlive #KeepAlive
Thank you very much for watching.
Please comment, like, share and subscribe!
Visit us at: www.strathpefferjunction.com
+ Disclaimer +
This project does require a steady hand and competence with a soldering iron. Working with DCC decoders and tiny surface-mount components leaves little margin for error and it is very easy to permanently damage sensitive electronics if you are not very careful. If you choose to follow any of the steps or suggestions outlined in the video, you do so at your own risk and any damage or injury to yourself, your models, your equipment or others is your own responsibility.

[@dr.deborahkatharinestevens318]

What a super series of how-to videos; so very helpfully explained and with all details and techniques shewn. I shall feel confident making my own stay-alives now, rather than purchasing the overpriced ESU units. Thank you very much.

[@BillySugger1965]

A superb series on DIY stay alives. I’m an electronics design engineer so will almost always comment on someone’s soldering, but you get so much of this right, and so well presented, that I just pat you on the back and endorse your videos as they are. Nice work!

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks indeed for the wonderful feedback!

[@EmperorsPath]

I want to sat a massive thank you for providing this tutorial, using this and your class 08 shunter tutorial I was able to fit a Hornby TTS decoder and a stay alive capacitor into my shunter, with the sound running and having charged for a bit, I was able to get around 56 seconds of sound time after removing it from the tracks. Thank you so much for all you do for the community!

[@StrathpefferJunction]

In delighted you have found the videos useful. I've not been able to make any new ones for the past 18 months as I've been having a lot of back issues, but I'm hoping hinge are settling down now and that I'll finally be able to get back to make some new content. Thank you for the support!

[@BR-yk1zz]

Thank you very much for the Video....saved me hours of work. I do appreciate the hard work that goes into making these films. Thanks again.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

No problem at all. I really appreciate the feedback. I like to go into detail and effectively have a chat whilst I'm doing it, because that's what I like from other videos. Some folk prefer quick and no frills, and that's fine too. KZbin is a big pond with lots of different fish doing different things! Anyhow glad my video helped. 😊👍🏻

[@brianball9097]

Excellent, thank you.......clearly explained !

[@roymacintyre6479]

Thanks for the advice and guidance. I've just successfully fitted a stay alive to a TTS sound chip within a Lima Class 20. This was my first go at something like this and your video made it all possible!

[@IronHorseRailways]

Thanks for this man, worked a treat! Have to be honest though, I must've watched the video about 10 times... I took a slightly different approach to you through regarding the common blue wire. Rather than solder onto the PCB in two places I just tapped into the blue wire as it wasn't being used for anything and it worked brilliantly! The stay alive I used gives me TTS class 37 WITH SOUND running about 10 seconds of power! cheers again buddy!

[@StrathpefferJunction]

No worries at all. Glad it helped! Yeah, I've done that too on some. It's an easier was to do it. I just initially preferred to keep away from the standard parts of the wiring and leave them 'stock', but it definitely cuts down on the risk. Thanks for the comment!

[@rccosplay3249]

Great instructional video. Finally can make sense of it all as I've purchased a T4 for a soundtraxx economy. @ least now I know "bridge rectifier" thanx... 💖

[@me231951]

Excellent……thank a really straight forward demonstration

[@StrathpefferJunction]

No problem!

[@HillcotMR]

Thanks for this, I used this to fit a stay alive to my TTS

[@johncampbell7581]

Great videos. Just getting into this stuff so finding your tutorials really useful especially as I'm a novice with the electronics side of things

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks indeed! I've not made any videos for a while as we've got a wee baby who has taken up most of my spare time, but once he's a little older, I'll get back to them...hopefully later in 2022!

[@bobsmodelrailways]

Well done! Excellent tutorial. Bob

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks indeed, Bob.

[@onnomulder9775]

Good instruction videos!! Thanks Onno.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Thanks, Onno 🙂👍🏻

[@paulm3965]

Good video informative. the blue tack is a excellent tip The blue is a common return thus soldering to the blue wire negates the need to solder on to the chip. Good tutorial. very well explained.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks indeed, Paul. Yes, I use blue tac all of the time. I watch a lot of folk struggling with helping hands, but for these tiny wee wires, I find blue tac works brilliantly. On the very odd occasion that I let it get too hot, it can get a bit sticky, but it still normally just pulls off again once cool (or comes off with pure IPA, which is fine for cleaning electronics with).

[@TimberSurf]

Very professional presentation 👍well presented and great list of links :)

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks indeed 🙂👍🏻

[@JtagSheep]

Thanks for the tutorial both parts ! I have fitted a 2 cap stay alive to my Hornby jinty 0-6-0 and while my electrolytic caps are only a combined total of 1000 micro farad wich is no where near enough to keep the train alive for a second I have noticed that running at slow speeds has improved significantly. What makes this test even better is the fact I pulled out a dirty old piece of flex track from under the bed that needs a good clean and she crawls nicely at slow speeds ! I will however be replacing the two caps with some super or ultra caps with a higher uF rating to provide a better experience !

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Excellent! I'm so glad it worked well for you. As you say, even a relatively small load of energy storage can make a noticeable difference. 🙂

[@lesburton2015]

Thank you indeed

[@JWitchard]

A good pair of videos and solution to a quandary I have had for a while. A while ago I watched a Phil Downs video about stay alive capacitors. His solution from the comments was the positive going to the blue wire and the negative going to the negative wire of the speaker, either soldered to the decoder end or the other end depending how confident you are with your soldering. I just thought I would mention this for viewer who weren't to confident with their soldering. Thanks again for your great videos.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Thanks, John. I'll have to check out Phil's video. I've not seen anyone doing that, but it'll be interesting to see how he got on. There's actually more space to hit with the solder with this decoder than there is on ESU's and Zimo ones with bespoke stay alive solder pads. But, I still wouldn't try unless I was sure I could pull it off! I'm really happy with the results with this one. I'm going to play around with super caps at some point to see if I can get similar storage capacity in a way that's more compatible with the reduced space available in many newer locos.

[@JWitchard]

DccGuy made a nice video on building stay alive capacitors.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

I'll have to check it out. I don't think I've discovered that channel yet.

[@1tonyboat]

Thanks for all the info, just fitted stay alive to a Freightliner 66 now runs perfect also did a v trains 47 magic..

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Excellent! Glad you hear you got on fine with this. It can make such a difference.

[@craigshornbyupgrades1136]

Great video, I have been having problems with my KR models GT3, which I fitted a Hornby TTS too. It kept re-setting and tripping out, built your stay alive capacitor and fittedit exactly as per your video and finally the KR3 manages to accelerate decelerate and run at slow speed without dieing on me.(actually just noticed I bought the 21 pin to eight pin converter from you on Ebay). The soldering ain't easy on those tiny pads !. Thanks though Great work

[@StrathpefferJunction]

That's great! I'm really glad you got on well with it. Stay alive really can make such a massive difference. Happy Modelling! 😊

[@bobfuller]

I'm currently having a Strathpeffer Junction video binge and thoroughly enjoying the videos. Just a note about Kapton tape...it is in fact a very effective heat insulator. It was originally developed as a heat shield for spacecraft. So if an electronic device is completely covered in Kapton tape it will not be able to dissipate heat. This could then cause the device to overheat and fail.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Fair point on the kapton tape, yes. It's actually why I always leave it open at the ends. I also use it on my 3D printer for its high temp attributes, so I'm not entirely sure why I said otherwise in the video. I'll watch it again and work out what I was trying to say, so I can correct myself in future! Thanks again for highlighting it 🙂👍🏻

[@SimonLivertonCentral]

Very nice second video David.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Thanks, Simon.

[@alanmargalan5921]

Another brilliant helpful vidio David, I start doing one tomorrow morning, I asked you if it was possible and it surely is thanks for the download it was really helpful. Regards Alan............

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Glad it was of use 👍🏻

[@Snagglepuss1952]

Just watched pt1 and now pt2. Awesome clear and understandable and not too fast, what had seemed to be a daunting task looks like fun now. Living in NZ the shipping costs are far greater than the product cost so diy is a double win. Thanks so much your now my new favourite channel. Cheers from down under.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks indeed! I've bit a bit quiet of late, but plan to get back to more videos this year. 🙂

[@russcole5685]

Late to this video, but glad to see another Kiwi. Hello from the Manawatu

[@AndrewDicker]

Excellent instructional video and easy to assemble, Thank you! I have created one and can see it gets voltage if i remove quickly and put my multimeter on it, but after the train is lifted from the track the Stay Alive does not kick in... I am however using a Gaugemaster DCC90 decoder and fitted a JST plug on mine so i can detach easily. I dont suppose you have used these before and could comment why it wont work? This decoder already has an external JST socket and you can buy the ready made Stay Alive units, but your videos are so good, i had to try make my own!

[@krish112b]

Brilliant, very helpful. Thanks a lot, can you please make a video on the procedure for fitting cap on a hornby decoder x9659

[@dalek-dan-1]

I must admit I was looking at this and I think I damaged my decoder but not sure how as I was very careful. I thought the the negative side also went to the 7805 linear regulator on the same side of the board. middle pin and also the top tab which is where i soldered to as a larger area for my not so steady hands. when i put it on the track the speaker buzzed and i could smell burning. it is my own fault but i did check everything and i could find no wiring faults and i might add i never connected anything to the fly leads for the stay alive so I was very surprised. only myself to blame though. Very nice video very detailed and thorough. By the way I only seen this video afterwards, it was by no means because of anything you showed in your excellent video.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks for the comment. The soldering for this conversion is fairly simple, but also quite fiddly because the pads are so tiny. A small slip with the iron or keeping the heat on for too long can damage the decoder, unfortunately. Did you manage to get it resolved?

[@dalek-dan-1]

@@StrathpefferJunction there is no way i can repair the board as the chip U5 (near linear regulator) is totally gone and i can see a small grid of solder, so must have been a BGA type chip. I am really not sure what I did wrong as a multitude of possibilities. I am not a novice to electrics (although no expert) as it is my hobby and I was trying to be careful but most likely kept the soldering iron on there too long. I put it down to a life learning experience. maybe the gnd pin of the linear regulator isn't connected to the negative dc side directly but then again i didn't connect the wires to anything so it can't be that. If I had seen your video before hand i would have followed it, i like the using bluetack idea as i find it extremely hard to hold things in place and solder. I don't understand why they don't provide keep alive wires by default, such a small simple thing for them to do.

[@DaveHedgehog2006]

Another good video David. A quick suggestion, which to be honest may not be worth much as you still need to solder the negative directly to the chip, but its one less risk of getting big blobs of solder all over the decoder ;) The positive could be soldered directly into the blue wire (cut and rejoin or possibly just scrape a small bit of insulation off the wire with a sharp blade) or if its a DCC ready loco, onto the blue pin pad on the DCC socket.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Yes, absolutely. That's certainly an alternative approach and definitely one that cuts down on the amount of fiddly on-decoder soldering. I have done that once on a different FX only decoder that I added stay alive too and where it was particularly fiddly work, but with the TTS decoders, the blue pad is thankfully reasonably large and as they are two sided, you can flip it over and you have a whole free pad to yourself. Definitely some options for folk though, depending on how comfortable they feel with the job in hand. 🙂👍🏻

[@melanierhianna]

I never use flux when soldering electronics. A good rosin cored solder should be good enough. As for the pins, the blue common makes sense since this will be the 5V rail. DCC decoders have active ground on their function pins. So finding ground is the difficult bit but you've already done that :-)

[@StrathpefferJunction]

When I'm doing electronics projects, like soldering up PCBs from scratch, like you, I tend just to rely on the flux core solder. For these sorts of job, where I just want to dip in and out, and not have to redo things and add more heat etc., I do like to add a tiny little extra flux just to make sure I get a good joint first time. Horses for course though. There's no right or wrong way per se, just what works for you. I always use no clean flux too, so I don't have to go back in a wipe it down much (unless I've used too much, of course!).

[@user-mp2tl8zv2t]

Super.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks indeed.

[@ipcress1066]

This is really helpful and very well explained so many thanks for posting it. One question please, is there any reason why the stay alive can't be soldered to the pads on the 8 pin socket rather than the actual chip? Oh hang on, obviously has to be on the chip as it's DC and the socket is AC.. duh... Regards Paul

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Delighted you enjoyed it and found it useful. You can wire onto the common blue on the socket if you really wanted, but the other wire has to be soldered to the rectifier terminal on the decoder.

[@philbow49]

Excellent instructions David. Fitted a Zen DNSSA stay alive to my TTS ( due to space limitations). Works fine other than the well known “jerky” start! Using my Gaugemaster Prodigy Express I changed the CV150 to 1 as suggested and that helped a bit, but still jerky. Tried 150=1, 151=255,152=1,153=255,154=1 but still judders and seems to cut out at various random points around the layout. I’ve seen quite a few other options on various sites ( including Hornby) So is it just trial and error or do you know of a “magic bullet” ? Thanks a lot. Phil

[@grandemaurice29]

Great video SJ - really helped me wire up my DCC Ready Hornby Stanier 4MT 2-6-2 with TTS and LaisDCC stay alive - works a treat. However, I've just installed an identical set-up to a DCC Ready Bachmann class 37/1 and I'm having issues. The loco started to move then it went dead, reminding me to update CV29 by deducting 4 from the CV total. The default total is 6 so i inputted 2 as the new value. Nothing. It steadfastly refuses all inputs. If i reboot the whole DCC system it starts up again fine but it's clearly not liking the CV29 value. Any suggestions please? Not sure how the messaging works on here....?

[@jamesgilbart148]

Great video. I have a Bachmann 37 with a Hornby TTS decoder - it works (apart from the cab light) but the Bachmann loco shell is full of mechanism and I wonder if there's enough space to fit a stay-alive capacitor?

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Hi James. Depending on the age of the Bachmann model, it may either be totally full of mechanism/metal chassis or there may be small depressions for squeezing in decoders and small speakers, but getting a stay alive capacitor in too tends to require some surgery to the chassis. It is possible that if you were using a Zimo and ESU decoder you might be able to squeeze in one of their small stay alive units, but to get a decent capacitor in there for a tts decoder would be tricky. It's definitely doable, but I think you'd probably have to grind out some of the chassis or possible squeeze it into the tanks (depending on the cap size).

[@robertpinch4646]

Great video thanks a lot. Just one question did you get the diagrams available for download and where are they?Kind Regards Robert

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Hi Robert. Many thanks indeed for the great feedback. Yes, I did make up diagrams. I don't have the specific link to hand here on my phone, but if you head to www.strathpefferjunction.com you should find them via the search tool. Just search for 'tts decoder stay alive'.

[@aureol40012]

I’ve got a Zen chip and stay alive which works brilliantly apart from the fact it zooms off when the stay alive kicks in. Any idea how I can stop it doing that, guess it’ll be the CV settings?

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Yeah. That normally happens because dc running is switched on in cv29. You need to tweak the cv29 to turn it off.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Read cv29. So long as it is 4 or more, subtract 4 from the value and write that number back to cv29. That'll turn off dc running and should fix that issue. The only issue (if you want to call it that) with stay alive devices if that then stop you being able to run the loco on a dc layout. Not that that's a problem for me or many others, as I only run dcc!

[@janeswift9961]

Thanks for that, another job to be done n times! I do have mixed feelings about stay alive as it can mask other problems. A cautionary note though, be careful when using a bleeping/buzzing continuity tester, you are introducing a voltage that could blow some components on your decoder if you put the prods in the wrong place. It would be better to set it to measuring resistance. The audio is very helpful rather than having to divert your eyes from what you are testing, but potentially you could ruin what you are testing.

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Sound advice there. Thank you.

[@lesliepotter3553]

Hey mate thanks great job ,have done a few tts decoders now with home brew s Alice’s , but , one of my class 37 tts is different than the others in terms of where the (-) goes on the decoder Cheers a diagram of where I goes would be fantastic

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Hmmm. I've not seen the different Class 37 decoder myself. If you want to email me a photo of it, I'll see if I can work out what goes where: [e-mail] 😊

[@richierex]

You tend to use a lot of solder on your joints, also have you tried cored solder or is that too thick? Nice job though

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Thanks for the comment. I don't want to have to revisit joints between wires/legs, so prefer a belt and braces approach. I do use rosin core on its own for a lot of stuff, but I find that using flux helps to ensure a good, quick joint on these these tiny circuit boards. Others may well solder differently, and that's fine. There are different schools of thought and differing opinions. Horses for courses!

[@ianhuxstep211]

Great video, thanks. Is that a home made test track or purchased, If home made have you done a youtube video on its construction?,

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Hi Ian. Many thanks for the comment. Yes, it's home made. There's a video on it in my videos list. I'll dig out the url...

[@StrathpefferJunction]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnTWfoB8gp6SbbM

[@dangerdave0000000001]

So would the sound still work if you dont have the means to change the cv ??? If it hit a dead spot ??

[@StrathpefferJunction]

It won't run correctly unless you change the CV and turn off dc running, but the sound should still work. But there's probably no point in having working sound if the model doesn't actually run properly.

[@dangerdave0000000001]

@@StrathpefferJunction thats true cheers for the advice

[@jankochanowski3252]

Hi! On one of your videos I have seen you using Roco/Fleischmann Multimaus to operate DCC. I wont to buy z21start (white box) witch Multimaus. Since it is a German product I am wondering how will it cooperate with decoders like ZN6D ZEN 6-pin, Hornby X9659 4-pin, Hattons Originals DCR-6PIN, Gaugemaster DCC23 6-pin. Can you give me any hind? If z21start will be not available my plan B is to buy Gaugemaster DCC01 Prodigy Express.

[@waynemiller7382]

Hi, Please can you do me a favour, can you measure the outside diameter of one of the roller bearings on your loco rolling road test rig shown at 19:00 . Thanks , very interesting and useful (and Pt 1.) Subscribed!

[@terrylove3247]

Another great video but I do not see why you did not put it across the incoming DCC pair?

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Many thanks for the feedback, Terry. Unfortunately, that would not work as the capacitor would be in the circuit before the bridge rectify, and therefore would be seeing a dcc voltage (more like ac) rather than dc. This is why the capacitor has to be inserted on the outputs from the bridge rectifier.

[@terrylove3247]

Ok thanks.Also I think if you make the resistor at a higher value i.e. 2k or higher, then you would get longer stay alive. This wprks with my coach lighting circuit as I can get up to 30 seconds.

[@richierex]

you think a lot @@terrylove3247

[@jamiesparkes4434]

Hi mate have you ever done this to a standard 4 pin hornby decoder I think it's the 9659 decoder

[@StrathpefferJunction]

I've not, no. But if the actual decoder board is the same as the standard 8 pin, then it should be possible. The trickiest part is soldering to the negative, which is the back of a diode in the middle of the pcb.

[@dennisedgar3430]

Where can I get a copy of you diagrams?

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Hello. I've got downloadable pdfs on my website here: www.strathpefferjunction.com

[@philkyle8919]

well wired mine up and nothink sound decoder still works how strange brought everythink you listed on here wired it up nothink :(

[@Synthematix]

For the price of trains in N and OO gauge trains, stay alive capacitors should already be fitted!

[@StrathpefferJunction]

If they came from the factory with built in dcc decoders, I think that would absolutely be the way to go. I guess the problem is that they are still catering for both the dc and dcc markets with a single product. Even if they just made spade available for a capacitor to be installed and decoder manufactures built in capability for using super caps or something, that would be quite a positive step.

[@Synthematix]

Thanks for the reply, this absolutely should be in the NMRA standard there's no excuse! capacitors have been around since the 1700's !!! and standard DC should all now be discontinued as DCC trains mainly run on dc 12v anyway. This hobby has progressed so much there's absolutely no need to run any train on DC any more, they could make a bank of surface mount capacitors for N gauge and regular electrolytic for OO, either that or a digital circuit that holds the power for a few seconds (even 1 second would be welcomed) would be easy to implement in a very small space. All this said the hobby is expensive enough as it is and this may push prices up even further. Even small Lipo battery circuits could be used, we have the technology now to put billions of transistors into a CPU why cant they make micro sized one farad 16v capacitors?

[@StrathpefferJunction]

It's a tricky one. I think dcc is overpriced and I think they can do that because of dc still being there. They can treat dcc as a premium product and charge more. I know dc vd dcc is a very controversial area and many people have very ingrained views on it, and I can see different sides and points of view. Personally, however, I think if you're stsrting out on anything more than an oval on the kitchen table, given you can buy a serviceable decider for £10, folk should seriously consider dcc. It can be as easy or hard as you want to make it and I would never go back to dc now, not at all. I'm not sure we're at a stage where we can or should axe dc, but I certainly think manufacturers should be producing locos with room for speakers and caps as standard now. I think some have moved down the speaker space route, but they're behind the curve as it's normally space for the 20x40 speakers that most folk end up switching out. I guess it's hard to manufacturers to try to be all things to all people, but I do think thwure missing a few fairly simple tricks. Certainly, on 08 shunters for example, the pickups are renowned for their poor performance so perhaps they could at least start their with some factor fitted capacitor capacity?!

[@Finnertoncentralmodelrailway]

Wow I would never do that that’s way too technical for me lol

[@StrathpefferJunction]

The tricky party is working out whet goes where, but so long as you have a steady hand and a good iron with fine tip, it's doable...but there is potential for it to go horribly wrong if the iron slips or you hose on too much solder, so not without risk!

[@Finnertoncentralmodelrailway]

I definitely don’t have a steady hand lol

[@robertsquires2816]

Can you sell me the flux bottle holder. I have already tipped it over twice!

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Hi Robert. If you drop me an email, I'll see what I can do. [e-mail]