Connecting a CurrentKeeper to SoundTraxx Decoders

[@stuartaaron613]

Hi George, excellent video. As you know I've made use of both versions of your Current Keeper modules, and I am very satisfied with their performance.

[@larrydee8859]

Hi George, Thanks again for an excellent video. (I'm reaching the point of needing to install multiple current keepers for small 8 pin HO decoders, that I'm using for O guage end car bipolar directional led lighting). Thanks again.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

We are glad that you are enjoying them!

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@larrydee8859 We hope this video helps you out on those installs, if not just contact our Support Department: [e-mail]

[@larrydee8859]

@@SoundtraxxDCC Okay George; Thanks again for your support.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@larrydee8859 Of course, that's what we are here for!

[@Mrruneight]

Thank You for another Great video George. I had an older Tsunami decoder that SoundTraxx Tech Support recommended how to hook a Current Keeper to but the issue I had was being able to solder the wires to the recommended locations on this board as my hands just are not steady enough to do this. If I may recommend another method I found works for me is to use a Decoder Buddy which has nice large soldering pads making soldering these wires much easier. Don't mean to supersede what's been talked about here, just trying to pass on what I've found works for me in hopes it makes this job easier for someone else.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Thanks for the feedback, I hope this helps anyone out with a similar issue! The decoder buddy can be handy. :D

[@DubaiTrains]

Good stuff George! I recently connected a current keeper to a soundtraxx soundvalue board. Made possible with the support of the soundtraxx service team. See the whole install on my channel.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Thanks for sharing!

[@ricter591]

Thanks George, 🐾🚂 KY.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Of course, thanks for watching.

[@FerroFilmeMTY]

Excellent video George, a video on how to install a 21-pin Tsunami 2 on a ScaleTrain locomotive would not be bad, since I heard that the board of that manufacturer has some small swiches that it has not been clear to me if they should be activated or not so that when installing a Tsunami 2 the lighting outputs FX3, FX4 exétera work

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Thanks for the feedback, we will see what we ca do. In the meantime, email [e-mail] with any questions you have.

[@dougbailey392]

Not sure why all manufacturers don’t install current keepers, they work great.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

We love them! Not all installs have room though.

[@coquitlam_railfan5686]

Hey George, I have a athearn c44-9wl with tsunami 2 sound, I can’t don’t think the dcc board has this 2 prong connection for a compositor how would I add one to it?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Please contact our Support Department directly for more help with this, thank you. SoundTraxx Support Department: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support?

[@dcctrain]

👍

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

:)

[@LancerThomas]

Just came across your video. I assume this would work for passenger cars to keep interior lights lit? Thank you.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Not necessarily. The CurrentKeeper needs only DC to power it up, so if you connect it to DCC track power, you can damage it. You can use the CurrentKeeper for lights provided you use a bridge rectifier to make the DCC track to a pure DC signal, then light the lights and attach the CurrentKeeper. Our SoundCar does have provisions for not just making sound, but lights and a plug for the CurrentKeeper.

[@Jean-Naimar]

I have a question, what is the current keeper 2 pin connector type on TSU-4400 ? Thanks

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

It is the same connector that the other Tsunami2 decoder have. You just plug in our CurrentKeeper. For more information please contact our Support Team directly: [e-mail]

[@joshfreund6008]

Why does mine do the opposite..loco stops in maybe 3 seconds...sound stays alive for up to 10 seconds

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

How long your locomotive will run depends on the model, the motor, the lights... If the model stops moving in 3 seconds the motor needs more power than the CurrentKeeper is providing, but has enough power to run the sounds still.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

What about the basic 8 pin decoder install MC2H104OP (HO852003) is there a wiring diagram on your web site

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Please contact our Support Team for help with this: [phone] ext.22 or [e-mail]. They will be happy to help.

[@jurgenbillhofer3207]

Hi George, I have a 2-6-0, a 4-60 and a 2-8-0 Bachmann SoundTraxx Sound Value steam engine and a S-4 Sound Value diesel engine that I would like to supply with a keep-alive capacitor. Where would I find the connection points on these decoders?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Contact our Support Team and they can help you with this: [phone] ext.22 or [e-mail]. Thank you!

[@kdtrproductions4983]

Is the current keeper compatible with BLU-2200?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Yes, it is. It will plug right in.

[@Form44208]

The SoundCar board shown at 2:50 doesn't look like the one in my Athearn Caboose. When I got the Current Keeper installed and I disconnect the power, the light go off and the sound which wasn't even activated gives a couple of short whistles and or bell goes off, lights in caboose that weren't on, turn on. Also the caboose has a constant very low white noise coming from the speaker even when I set CV128 to 0 (I am not interested very much in sound anyway in the caboose, just the lights). Also when I activate one of the secondary marker lights it produces a buzzing sound, the other secondary light does not produce the sound, neither does the "headlight". The white noise and the buzzing were happening before I put in the Current Keeper. Are these things normal or is my SoundCar defective? I put 2 videos of this caboose on my channel so you can see the issues.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Contact our Support Team directly, they can help you figure out what is going on here: [phone] ext. 22 or [e-mail]

[@ck5644]

Would soldering the Current Keeper to pins 16 & 20 also work for the 21 pin mobile decoder?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Yes, pin 16 is the V+, pin 20 is the ground, or V-. This will work also with the 21P mobile decoder.

[@geraldjones2278]

I understand that capacitors can suck up power when first turned on and might fool the DCC power supply into thinking it was a short and trip out. Do your current keepers have some way to prevent this?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Yes. There is a slow trickle charge circuit to prevent inrush current from tripping the DCC system. One probably would not be an issue, but when you get multiples on the layout, then it becomes an issue. So, yes. We also have a voltage regulator so the caps do not get overcharged.

[@geraldjones2278]

@@SoundtraxxDCC Thanks for the reply. I am doing the same with lighting circuits in some passenger cars.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@geraldjones2278 Of course! We are here to help. I hope it turns out great-sure it will! If you need anymore help just contact our Support Department: [e-mail]

[@michaellehman1549]

Been having a heck of a time putting a Current Keeper on a TSU-KN1. The packaging indicates that the CK+ pad is on the outside edge and the CK- pad is buried in the middle of the board behind the front headlight connections. However, viewing this video and it's illustration at 2:52 of the TSU-KN1 connections, it shows the exact opposite, i.e. the CK- is along the edge of the board and the CK+ is buried in the middle behind the headlight connection. Which is right, because doing it by the packaging illustration keeps showing up as a Short Detected on my PowerCab on the Programming Track?

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

The CK + is in the middle and the CK- is on the outside. The first run of our packaging was incorrect. If you bought this recently I am surprised that you got this packaging. You can contact our Support Team if you need further assistance: [e-mail] or [phone].

[@michaellehman1549]

@@SoundtraxxDCC Thanks for taking care pf this for me. It was the last one on the hook and likely why I ended up with it at this late date. In any case, the quickly provided replacement is now operating great in another of my NW2M narrowgaue diesels I convert from Kato donors.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@michaellehman1549 We are happy to help!

[@billkraemer4710]

All boards should be set up with a simple plug and play for current keepers. Soldering, while I have zero problems with, is beyond many to perform effectively. Where is NMRA? The mfgs need to step up.

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

Some boards simply do not have room for a CurrentKeeper plug.

[@NICKSSHOP]

what about on ur 2010 bored theres nothing like what u just said no help this is why loksound is way better

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

The CK installations for older Tsunami boards need specific guidance which you can get by contacting our Support Team directly: [phone] ext.22 or [e-mail]. They were not originally designed for installation of additional capacitance, so each board needs unique connections to access the on-board power storage, not a quick connector. Have you contacted our support team for help? We answer usually within the day, usually within a hour or so. We even state that in the video. If you try our current product instead of these old boards, you may find that it is much better than the esu products. We did win Model Railroader’s Reader’s Choice for Favorite Sound Decoder twice over the esu. Maybe you should try the new Tsunami2 before comparing brands.

[@NICKSSHOP]

@@SoundtraxxDCC naw i love ESU and they better sound more then what you have for sound you guys need to step the game just saying and why not have the current Keepers built into the board like ESU does now and ur sound dont sound like the real deal sounds more toy like but hey that's just my opinion I did have a soundtraxx at one point then i ripped it out and put esu in it.not trying to strat a argument or anything I just feel like saying what's on my mind..

[@SoundtraxxDCC]

@@NICKSSHOP Well you are entitled to your opinion, but if you are comparing our old product to their new product that is not quite a fair comparison. And we work with actual railroads and engineers to make sure that we are getting the most realistic and high quality sounds for our products. Not to mention our products are made in the USA. But if you prefer another brand that is fine. We hope that you enjoy the hobby!