408 Stroker Fox Body - Walkaround and Drive

We take the 1986 408 Stroker Fox Body Mustang on a short drive around the backroads near the shop and discuss the next steps with this car. We had to give you guys more details on this thing based on the response from our last video! We hope you enjoy the walkaround!
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[@adelphia4]

My solid roller 408w is the same thing. 12.5:1 street car. I’m running e85 to eliminate this issue

[@matthewfoy3729]

Dad makes the best videos.. you saved the customers life with the steering shaft.. keep posting videos

[@jacksonmarshallkramer5087]

Old school cabled hood pins would be badass.

[@lobbyrobby]

I've had 3 sn95's and now a s550. I've never cared about a Foxbody but they're growing on me

[@SavageProductionsCars]

It's just so rare to see nice ones

[@Bgmjustdoitbaby]

Just got a 88 hatch back. Car already has all the bolt on goodies the power to weight ratio feels great

[@rayman1230]

@@SavageProductionsCars crazy to think 15 years ago it wasn’t hard to find nice ones. Even mostly original and unrestored. I’m 31 and had three, 1989’s. Started at 17 years old and never looked back. I wish I would have held onto my first one, an LX. For now a ‘98 sits in the garage. One day under a different President, I’ll be able to afford fixing it up to my liking. None the less, beautiful fox body! If I can’t acquire another one, I’ll try scooping up another sn95 with a SBF

[@erasedfromgenepool.4845]

That is one clean build ! Beautiful!!!

[@SixTwoHemi]

86GT had the best year seats outta all the Foxbody’s

[@CC_Top_Solutions]

Wow, thats a sharp Mustang. Ive found my '66 289 runs pretty good with like 25 degrees at idle, 34 at WOT and like 43 at low throttle low rpm cruising. I put a vid of me tuning my Holley Projection up.

[@brandonknight7240]

From what i gather the shorty headers either come off the previous engine or more likely no long tubes becouse of fitment issues with that block

[@Nick17354]

For 351W swap long tubes you've got two options. BBK makes a set which are ok, about $800. ARH makes a VERY nice set, but they are north of $2000. The 351 is a taller deck block, so it moves the headers both up and outwards, making fitment in the limited space...challenging. I am doing a 393, and plan on using the shorties this car has as well. They don't make quite as much power, but as you saw in the vid, it's got PLENTY of that, not worth the headache unless you are doing a tubular K member.

[@think1stproductions]

Bad azz set up

[@lanemorrow7417]

It sounds so good. Beautiful car

[@SavageProductionsCars]

I'm sure the owner would say "thank you!"

[@MrCecilbag]

this car is currently for sale for 19500, saw it today

[@Texasbroski512]

Dang wanted to hear the start up from the outside

[@sixoid4104]

My shop built a 12:5:1 compression coyote motor and the customer runs on 93 octane, BUT Everytime he fills up he does use Octane Booster. E85 around me is quite far out of reach

[@donaldtate3372]

Audience, looks and sounds good!!!!

[@mmjnice97]

Holly mooooleeeee hehehehe 86 Saleen tribute over here baby.. nice as usual

[@enjoythesho1992]

Awesome color super clean fox.....you can tighten those map bags pretty easily the reason they put shorty headers on instead of long tube is they probably planned on making a driver out of it long tubes are not always better than shorty headers long tubes make power from mid to high rang in the rpms while shorty headers make power from idle to mid range so if your not planning on turning 8k rpm no need for long tubes especially on a NA engine

[@UltraVert]

Awesome car..

[@jacksonmarshallkramer5087]

Maybe tune it and set the timing.

[@SportsMusicCars]

Nice. Had an '86 GT. Red. 5M.

[@flpanhead]

They didn't always come with the interior panel under the hatch. Mine didn't have one.

[@6spd85notch]

Nice car I have a black 85 notch 37k miles 347 6 spd. My father had a new 86 gt black and my first mustang was a black 85 gt. I always seem to end up with 4 eye cars. I have a bone stock 90 I want to paint hopefully this summer. Maybe put a larger chamber head to lower the compression ?

[@brandonknight7240]

My 1st car was a black 86gt same interior as this car, i was hooked after owning that car but being young and dumb i destroyed it

[@davidlouiso9650]

So did Adam get to work on it? He is the man in the Cincy area for Ford engines.

[@williamrose8944]

I would have went to thicker head gaskets to start or different heads with Bigger combustion chambers

[@deeremeyer1749]

Crazy given how rare "SBF" stroker "builds" based on 351s are in "Fox bodies" every blue "Fox" supposed "customer car" you "fix" has a "408W" in it, lol.

[@onebadbarron04]

So how did you come up with 12.5:1 not knowing how far the pistons or in the hole or the head gasket thickness >? I'm willing to bet thos heads are 63cc chamberds and the pistons are more than .015 in the whole, and under 12.1 compression witch is fine for 93 pump gas, the Easy thing to do would be to cheack cylinder pressure if it's under 200psi then it's fine on 93...

[@79chevy901]

Slick ride!

[@jasonhastings5538]

One thing you hardly ever see is the cargo cover!!

[@brianglass5758]

What size tires are on the rear?

[@Fullerboss]

E85

[@jacksonmarshallkramer5087]

If it were only a Notch.

[@nathanieljones7981]

carb engine would have been easier, or holley sniper. I would have done 10-11. so you can keep 87-93 octane in it.

[@SavageProductionsCars]

Well, it's not your car, is it? Not everyone wants a carb setup.

[@nathanieljones7981]

@@SavageProductionsCars true. But in my experience a carb or a Holley sniper is much easier to mess with than the old EFI system

[@Nick17354]

@@nathanieljones7981I'm going Sniper 2 in mine, at least for now. Maybe a custom setup later with a Terminator X. But it's nearly impossible to find a good upper AND lower intake manifold setup for the 351W based engines. Much better intake manifold choices available with a carb style EFI setup.

[@ralphpineo9584]

I know what you are saying about long tube headers. But are they worth the headache when it comes time to changing the starter? Long time watcher first time commenting lol.

[@SavageProductionsCars]

You usually don't have to remove the headers to get the starter out. But if you're balling out on longtubes and are worrying about changing the starter, just replace the starter too. Haha

[@ralphpineo9584]

@@SavageProductionsCars touché

[@albertgaspar627]

late model pushrod 302's came with a smaller starter from the factory. It was somewhere in the 1990's, i don't remember the exact year, but i think Explorers with GTo40P heads have them as well. It will give you an inch or more clearance.

[@Baddeal]

I thought the cam tells the story on the comp ratios. The motor doesn’t run static.

[@SavageProductionsCars]

That's the whole reason why retarding the timing down to 28 or so degrees will allow this car to run safer. You change the ignition timing to fire at a moment when enough air is being scavenged so you don't create too much cylinder pressure. Regardless, you can't just ignore the static compression ratio. That's how you determine how much you can/should advance or retard timing based on air and fuel.

[@albertgaspar627]

That's true, the cam duration bleeds off static compression at low RPM, and an aluminum head will let you get away with 1 point more compression than a cast iron head. plus many aluminum heads have a better chamber design to resist detonation, and the tighter the rings seal the cylinder, the less oil gets in to help detonate. But if you're building to flip, keep the compression down--no sense selling a racing compression engine to someone who can't tune (the EDIS distributor isn't as easy to tear apart as a GM HEI), then they blow your engine and tell everyone you sold a bill of goods.

[@talinegle6182]

why not throw some octane booster in it?

[@automotiveaddiction428]

4 eyes are the best......cause I drive 1..but only 306.

[@70sport37]

I love it who cares about the vett !

[@albertgaspar627]

not a great fan of upper radiator hoses that sit higher than the radiator cap (8:51)--that's an air pocket waiting to happen since hot air rises to its highest level, and some builders plumb a standalone radiator cap assembly into the hose. If that air isn't entirely bled out of the cooling system, there's an issue that could show up running that high a compression ratio. I'd almost mount the alternator where the AC delete pulley is to get it out of the way for a lower hose, but then I'd want AC on a street car anyway.

[@SavageProductionsCars]

You do realize that is the factory setup for this car, right?

[@albertgaspar627]

@@SavageProductionsCars I do since I had one :) I also went thru the classic ignition module conking out, how the voltage regulator on 1986 Fords go after 120,000 miles (owned a ranger 4 banger pickup and a turbo t bird from that year too, just a coincidence) and so the temp gauge spikes out when the vehicle comes to a stop (and eventually all the engine gauges start doing it) and how the 86 Mustang loves to blow out its rear taillights. how rear disc brakes could have been at least an option (rather than buying an SVO for Lincoln's setup) since rear drums are barely adequate for circular racing or more negative camber could be reached with longer T bird lower control arms since there was barely any adjustment above the shock towers from the factory. and of course how the T5 tends to wipe out its third gear synchros from the terrible shifter design. Not to mention the hideous heater core repair job if the car was optioned with AC and the original heater hose design no longer exists so you have to buy a different style hose. in other words...the factory setups had their known design or quality flaws :)

[@elliaspalmares9053]

What's going on with the Corvette?

[@SavageProductionsCars]

It belongs to a friend of ours. We're slowly building a beast of an N/A motor for it.

[@elliaspalmares9053]

Will you guys be making a video? Would love to see the build!

[@SavageProductionsCars]

@@elliaspalmares9053 yep, when the time comes

[@fortyshooter1]

Why was it built with 12 to 1 for the street?

[@SavageProductionsCars]

Not sure. Not our build lol

[@rayman1230]

Why not? Responsive, more torque through out the RPM range, helps move airflow… better to run E85 anyway to eliminate any knock issues. With gasoline having 10% Ethanol in it anyway, why not take advantage of a better fuel all together?

[@albertgaspar627]

if its running E85, it better get rid of any rubber hoses in the fuel system--they don't play well over time. And not all states have E85 at every pump, if you're building a car for flipping. Every point of compression adds about 4% more power and some better fuel economy, but the question is, is it worth it? if you run a domed piston to get that compression and it blocks the flame crossing the bore diameter or crowds the valve and disrupts flow into the cylinder, then you are hoping to gain enough to counter the loss. meanwhile, this car isn't running AC. As someone not running AC, i can say "street car" is questionable :) Yes, i have four window 40 mph "air conditioning" and it don't do d#$ after 2 hrs of driving even in humid air, it's just noise in the ear.

[@rayman1230]

@@albertgaspar627 lol glass to see someone else grasps engine math. Ohio is fuel of E85 at the pump. All I know is, an over bore, smaller chamber and flat top pistons can give 12:1 or greater on SBF and Modular Fords. One day I’ll finally build my 4.6 2V, with 3.7” bores, standard length rods, and Trickflow 38cc heads; 15:1 static compression. A strictly E85 build for the street.

[@albertgaspar627]

@@rayman1230 yeah, there's a lot of factors going on. like again, if one's building a car to flip and even thinks they may be trying to sell it nationally, CA buys the most cars but their highest pump gas is 91 octane. they can get E85 tho, but then you're losing fuel economy. Of course it depends on whether one's building an "around town toy" or a daily driver or a HRM Power Tour long distance hauler. Personally i invest in displacement over compression--run lower rpms and you get decent gas mileage with highway gear ratios. and with a more streetable compression and bigger displacement, when you finally get bored you can put on a mild power adder with the compression ratio and get a bigger "bang" due to the increased displacement--say for example a turbo with single digit boost giving the engine 100% VE or a little more. with higher compression, you're going to step up numerically on the rear gear ratio to take "load" off the engine whenever you're not at WOT. How close do you get to too much gear going thru the traps in the quarter or eighth? but you can theoretically play with rear tire heights. point is, see the entire car as a system and you can find that "4 percent increase per compression point" somewhere else in the drivetrain. Ironically on this particular engine, a day at the dyno to figure out what exact long tube headers are the best, could give back enough hp to match the 4% gained thru an extra point of final compression. And you raised another issue about compression in your second to last statement--if you're going to go big, you might as well go as far as you can on the available fuel (around here, C16 was $26 a gallon this spring, caught everyone running over 12:1 CR on the street offguard, but that's the nature of the beast--you wanna play, you gonna pay). you've probably seen the articles about long connecting rods helping high compression resist detonation, in case you do build that 4.6 and think about 'rod length purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/350%20chevy%20engine.html

[@justinatkinson5265]

I bet ya somebody spent some money on this car

[@larrypruitt3919]

Because long tubes fit like shit!

[@dukenukem5753]

You don't need a tune you need methanol

[@SavageProductionsCars]

This car is far from needing methanol.

[@culbycars]

I'm running a 408 in my cobra but the Cleveland variant plenty of power for the street and cruises