440 Chrysler Mopar Engine Building Part 8 - Installing Trick Flow Cylinder Heads

[@mikegadoury6172]

Hey Pete, I've never really been a "car guy" - until recently that is! I've bought a project car and in the process of restoring it. I never realized how much fun this is! Just wanted to say thanks. I find your videos are not necessarily specific to a particular car or motor. There's great information that applies to engines in general, and have been a tremendous help to me and my project. Can't tell you how much I appreciate your attention to the details. Thanks again and keep up the great work!

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you very much Mike. You are right on, I try to make videos that help on every engine. It's all about the processes and techniques.

[@timothyritter9524]

Great videos and lot's of good information...as a professional in the automotive field of over 30 years it's always frustrating to see all the ignorant know it all techno-weenies out there bashing other people while they themselves most guaranteed don't know everything... We can ALWAYS learn new things!!!

[@PetesGarage]

Agreed, thank you Timothy. I learn every day

[@norristammislideshowmulgre877]

Very well said.

[@jonathanbosco8458]

Thank you poetry in motion your videos

[@PetesGarage]

Hey Jonathan, thank you

[@ninjapumkin]

Two vids in one night. Awesome Pete!! Keep up the great work

[@PetesGarage]

I'm on a roll...lol

[@moepar8954]

Man I am so glad TrickFlow came out with these heads. Also the newer 270cc versions that have Max Wedge intake size ports. Also have decent spring in them to for both versions from PAC racing

[@PetesGarage]

I'm glad too, finally a great alternative to doing all that work.

[@mickthomassen2887]

Once again - keep up the great work Pete. Excellent instruction, attention to detail and videography. Love the videos. Please, please, please say you’ll do a SBC video/s in the future!!!

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Mick, ok, I'll do a SBC in the future, as soon as I get one.

[@bryantcurtis2665]

No. You're a towel thanks for doing what you do! I'm a retired navy boiler technician and I became a boat mechanic and I can tell when somebody is doing the job right!

[@PetesGarage]

What eva, I do what I want

[@bicylindrico]

One should consider using an old headgasket of the same thickness to check various things before doing a final installation. My Promaxx CNC ported heads required clearancing of the 3/8" pushrods around the intake runners. Also it may be worth the time to check piston to valve clearance, again with an old head gasket of the same compressed thickness. I can't wait to see you fire this one up. Our engines are very similar. Thanks again for this series!

[@PetesGarage]

Great points! If there are clearance concerns I would check for sure. Firing it up very soon.

[@garageforcerestos]

Same heads I put on mine Pete, you’ll love them

[@PetesGarage]

Awesome! Thanks Tom

[@robertlevine8243]

Great video thanks

[@PetesGarage]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@Dodgechallengersixpack]

Oooh you got me wanting these heads for my 440 6 pack...

[@PetesGarage]

Do it

[@patw52pb1]

Looking good. FYI: ARP instructions say to "Lubricate the under head of the bolt and the washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT". Also be sure to thoroughly lube full length of the fastener threads, especially the first threads. Just a heads up, I have also experienced Trick Flow heads with valve/seat sealing issues fresh out of the box.

[@PetesGarage]

Great comment. That is why I say follow the manufacturer's instructions. I didn't want to drag out the lube thing, but I took care of that before I dropped the bolts in. The heads occasionally have issues, but these checked out ok.

[@supreme2544]

Heck yeah 👍🏻 thanks Pete

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks my friend

[@eatmagnumrevolver3048]

A note on bolt lube for torque on Head, Mains and Rod bolts or Studs. Because bolt lube (grease types) liquid oils etc. are like water and will not compress. You must use minimal amounts verses excess amounts. 1 to 2 drops of lube oil dragged across “one section” the length of threaded bolt end is enough. Excessive bolt lube can generate false torque indications As the bolt is torqued, the excessive lube overfills the threads and as higher torque is applied “stops” an accurate torque setting from being achieved. A 110 lb. reading may only be 80 lbs. of torque applied. ONE drop of oil is always a safe and sure rule.

[@PetesGarage]

Great comment, I have a couple videos that discuss and test what happens to torque when lube gets on a fastener

[@RobertPerrigoOkiechopper]

Can't wait to hear it run.

[@PetesGarage]

Getting very close

[@doubledragon11988]

Those trick flows are probably the best heads I've ever seen. Those come with valves and springs installed right out of the box?

[@PetesGarage]

Right out of the box, but they are pricy.

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

I know Trick Flow says these are ready to bolt on, but so do most other head companies and I very often hear horror stories about tight valves and some other issues from peeps who did and didn't check the heads before installing them.. Do you check yours? Also, is this motor going onto a dyno?? One last Q; the pan you are using, you are not going to paint it??

[@PetesGarage]

Well, as an engineer working in manufacturing for 25 years I can say that no product or company will be 100% perfect. That being said I do check to make sure the valves and seals are in proper working order before I assemble them. I dyno tune every engine. I was not going to paint the pan because the plating looks pretty good, but that's up to the owner.

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

Ok, I figured you would have gone through the heads, but didn't see a video on you doing so. ~~ I'd love to see a full DYNO tune and numbers. I've heard a lot about these heads and really would love to SEE the numbers they make.. ~~ I have the same pan. I gave them a lite sanding to give it a tooth, but still the paint flaked off. I used primer and paint of the same brand, but at the moment I cannot remember the brand. I have to take it all down again and cut the surface better.

[@donaldberens3960]

Hi pete, nice project you got going, i'm a big mopar fanatic , I bought a 69 dodge charger and a 71 Plymouth road runner right out of high school back in 1983, Still own them today , and both big block car's , like you're garage videos , Back to the ARP head bolts , They counter sink the one side of the washer so you get a more precise reading when tightening down the heads , no drag on the top inside edge of washer / corner of bolt head to bolt shank, gives a gap in corner and like you said a nice smooth surface to surface mate.

[@PetesGarage]

That's really awesome, you're lucky to have those cars. Great comment about the ARP bolts.

[@manishgurav3783]

Nice work

[@PetesGarage]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@peterdiamond5677]

Could you comment on the spring rates? Which did you select and why? Which head/spring combination is best for a solid flat tappet cam at about .600 lift? Thanks Pete...great information and wish you were closer to Bawstin to build my engine.

[@AB-80X]

Contact your cam manufacture and use the what they reccomend. But why on earth would you use solid flat tappets with 600 lift? You can easilly lift to 600 with hydraulics. I lift my 240 heads to 640 with hydraulic rollers and it work perfectly.

[@jhutch1470]

I would use head studs, and MLS gaskets. Also ALWAYS check piston to valve clearances.

[@PetesGarage]

Great input, thank you

[@AB-80X]

Why would you put yourself though the pain of having to deal with head studs? Have you ever tried to remove heads on studs when the motor is in the car? Also, what kind of power are you planning on making? As long as the ARP bolts will support over 2000 hp and a lot more, I think you will be fine. Now MLS gaskets are nice, and a must if running high compression or boost.

[@TheRoguelement]

Dear Pete..As a fellow motorhead myself I was a little surprised you didn't opt for the MLS Head Gasket's especially with the Dissimilar Alloy's , We both know what happen's with aluminum & Iron ..Don't get me wrong Felpro have been my Gasket's of choice since my very first head swap in 77.. Anyway good luck ..

[@PetesGarage]

It's a great option Michael. For this particular application I did not see the need for it.

[@JordanMcKernin]

Pete, did you check valve guide clearances? A buddy of mine used these on his 505 and didnt make it out of the burnout box before a valve hung up.

[@PetesGarage]

I did not,but I knew the setup would work

[@dschlickbjj]

Pete, why are the water jacket openings in the head gaskets so small compared to eh ports in the block?

[@PetesGarage]

The gasket restricts coolant flow to control and even out head transfer

[@johnrosado9245]

Can you add links in the description of the parts you are using. Ex. Heads. Thank you. Great videos

[@PetesGarage]

That would be a pretty big chore

[@garydavies5973]

Have you any experience with other sets of these heads, the spec on the head is 78cc's, just wondering if they all come at 76cc's.

[@PetesGarage]

Since they are CNC ported they are all very close if not right on. I have not had a bad set.

[@michaw1674]

Stock FT 240 flow: Intake .100" 72 .200" 154 .300" 230 .400" 282 .500" 310 .600" 326 .700" 334 Ported TF 240 flow: Intake .100" 110 .200" 169 .300" 244 .400" 296 .500" 338 .600" 354 .700" 368 Also numbers from TF are a bit "optimistic" but as you can see, hand porting is worth the effort.

[@PetesGarage]

Interesting

[@ziggassedup]

It's going to be a nice engine.

[@PetesGarage]

It's gonna be awesome!

[@tobiaswillson5900]

check the valve job you may have a leaker , or bad run out , i've seen it time and time again .

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Tobias, I did check to make sure the valves were sealed.

[@tobiaswillson5900]

great show

[@1manshop335]

Great video man

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks my friend

[@eddiegarcia9657]

Would you happen to have any tips on keeping the aluminum heads clean and not corrode?

[@PetesGarage]

You can polish it, clean it, and put on a coat of clear to protect it

[@fredvillareal3929]

Question I am trying to press on my harmonic balance on the crank, what size is the bolt hole on the crank so I can order the right press on Amazon

[@PetesGarage]

3/4-16

[@tedshredz58]

Pete, I’ve looked pretty hard for this head you’re using and can’t find one with a 76 cc chamber. I see a 78cc. Can you provide a Trick Flow part number? Also, what compression ratio were you shooting for on this project?

[@PetesGarage]

The part number is 61617802-C00 which are listed as 78cc, but I think I measured differently, I really don't recall

[@larrybrown7216]

so on mt E Street heads there is no locating Dowl holes in the heads , so i removed the dowl pins does that make sense?

[@PetesGarage]

Dowel pins are pretty important. I would not take them out. Check to make sure. If there are no holes there is nothing you can do

[@kendonhubbard2828]

Question: I’m building a pro street 440 (74 block) with a 509 purple cam and I’m looking for new aluminum heads. Are there any heads you’d recommend for that application?

[@PetesGarage]

Can't beat the Trick Flow or AFR

[@AB-80X]

These are perfect for what you are doing. They will support a lot of power and they retain remarkable transition characteristics. I have mine on a 540, and could not be happier.

[@asn413]

i don't know if you will see this but are there any special torque specs for aluminum heads or do you just use the normal one. i got a 413 with them and i need to take her apart. better safe than sorry when i put her back together. n.n;

[@PetesGarage]

Yes there are. Follow the manufacturers recommendations

[@MrSixtycycle]

Pete great videos so much info and much appreciated. I just pulled apart my Indy 440 -1 headed Mega block due to a low leak down number on cylinder 6. I’m ready to put the head back on and have a quick k question. Muscle Motors assemble this and I found they used Grey RTV around water passes. The deck is oringed and they used copper flat out head gaskets. I I didn’t see any worry on your assembly regarding the water passes. Do you see a need with my setup? And why did Muscle Motors do so?

[@PetesGarage]

If it was a copper gasket without any coatings on it they used it to seal the ports. Use a coated gasket and you won't need any sealer

[@salsorrentino100]

Did you retain the same height as stock for the cylinder heads in relation to the intake manifold? Or did you have to mill the intake because the cylinder block deck was resurfaced?

[@PetesGarage]

It was the same

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Pete, don't you need to put the ARP lube underneath the head of the bolts (or washers) where they contact the head as well as on the threads?

[@PetesGarage]

I just made a video about this. It makes very little difference, but ARP does say to lube under the head.

[@micheldupras7854]

Hey Pete, I'm about to start disassembling my 440 and will re-install the same heads if not cracked, would you have any guides or references/tips/tricks on how to assemble all the valves, springs and stems on the head or is there nothing specific for these engines? Love your videos, just went through all of them all at once.

[@PetesGarage]

Replace the valve guides, put the valves and springs back in the same spots, hand lap the valves

[@AB-80X]

How old are your springs? If original, might be time to get new springs. I would definitely replace the retainers and locks at any rate.

[@shadjohnsen8143]

Are cylinder head bolts better than cylinder head studs?

[@PetesGarage]

Studs place a more even clamp load

[@Dodgechallengersixpack]

Pete been looking at these and the 270 heads. I see the difference is max wedge intake ports. Can you tell me if there is a max wedge intake that accepts 6pack carbs? Do you think there is an advantage to getting the 270’s without stroking my 440?

[@PetesGarage]

There would be an advantage, but I do not know of a 6 pack intake

[@Dodgechallengersixpack]

Pete's Garage Thanks for the reply. I am gonna do the 240’s then. Im eventually gonna do an 8-71 blower on another 440 block to swap in car and i think the 240’s would work also. Any input? This is gonna be my first blower engine.

[@PetesGarage]

You'll need lower compression with a blower

[@Dodgechallengersixpack]

Pete's Garage Yes! I talked the Theblowershop and they also said to make sure the build is 9:1 or less to able to use pump gas. Im not too sure on cam selection for blower applications. I guess I have a little reading to do.

[@AB-80X]

I run 240's on a 540 and I'm far from running out of head. Unless you are making some serious N/A power, you gain nothing with the 270's other than a headache. And seeing that you plan on using the 3x2 bbl, there's a "natural" limitation there. Forget 270's unless you spin that 440 past 7000 rpm and run a big single plane. I make close to 650 hp with my mill and that's with a "mild" intake for nice drivability. You can get a 3x2 bbl intake for the 240 and it will still support 575-600 hp, so just go that route.

[@Heavy_metal_rulez]

Looking good!! Any idea what your compression ratio is?

[@PetesGarage]

The static calculated out to around 10.2:1

[@jocktheglide]

was there a stud options for the heads vs bolts?

[@PetesGarage]

There is an option, but not necessary

[@ChippingMaple28]

do you cross hatch your cylinder walls? if so what do you use?

[@PetesGarage]

Yes, I use a cylinder hone

[@ChippingMaple28]

@@PetesGarage the 3 fingers or the ball hone?

[@cygnus1965]

A Sunnen pressure Hone is the best way to have them done.

[@TrenchRT]

Hi Pete, I notice that on your Ford rebuild you lubed the head bolt washer, is this true for the Mopar 440 as well?

[@PetesGarage]

You should always follow the manufacturers recommendations. New ARP bolts with aluminum heads are different. Putting lube on the washer will shift the torque curve slightly.

[@TheDustyaman]

Does the stock head bolts come with washers. When I bought a 440 from a guy the head bolts didn’t have any washers.

[@PetesGarage]

They do not. If you buy a set of ARP head bolts the washers are invluded.

[@gregnastasi4520]

2 videos in one day!!! We're not worthy! We're not worthy! 😆

[@PetesGarage]

lol...I'm trying to get the engine finished so I have to crank out the videos too

[@jeffleblanc8850]

Nice motor what kind of horse are you trying To make or should I say what kind of horse are you going to make

[@PetesGarage]

All the customer said was he needed a dyno sheet that showed over 500 HP, made 518

[@jmcenterprises9591]

Nice work Pete did you put the valves in?

[@PetesGarage]

That's the way the heads come right out of the box.

[@kevinbutler6571]

What kind of head gasket did you use?

[@PetesGarage]

Fel pro

[@guidosarducci3047]

Hey Pete. Hope you're doing fine with all of the corona crazy-ness going on. I watched a couple of times...what are u torqueing the bolt at? Is it the same as cast iron heads? thanks bro.

[@PetesGarage]

I am well and hope you are too. I use the same torque as the iron head

[@guidosarducci3047]

@@PetesGarage thanks bro

[@zacheryhaga6615]

Would this work with a 413 engine for a 63 New Yorker

[@PetesGarage]

Would what work?

[@zacheryhaga6615]

Would this work with rebuilding a 413 like would it be the same steps

[@chrisjar1342]

I've been told by a machine shop that aftermarket heads should always be bought bare and never out of the box ready to install because of valve leakege issues. Have you ever had a problem like that?

[@PetesGarage]

I have never had a problem, but they do have a point

[@AB-80X]

Lol. Do you know what that machine shop would do for a living if people did not buy bare heads they could "fix" out of the box? Not a damn thing. AFR, Trick Flow, Pro-Filer, Mast, Edelbrock, Dart etc. It works. What you might want to do, is talk to your cam manufacture about springs. I always use a spring based on the cam manufactures advice, not what comes on the heads - unless the manufacture is okay with teh stock springs. Funny enough, with my TFS 240's Howards were on board with the stock springs. But I suppose it's because it has very similar cam specs compared to the cam Trick Flow recommends when using the 650 lift spring set. When you talk to machine shops in the future, be vigilant about what they say you need. The more CNC stuff that comes out, the less they have to do. It's that simple.

[@billybadtoes]

Im more interested in if the valves were checked to see if they leaked or not

[@PetesGarage]

Everything leaks

[@AB-80X]

I find it absolutely insane that anyone would take a grinder to these heads. Nothing to gain, especially if you don't have a flow bench right next to you to verify every single little thing you might think you improve.

[@PetesGarage]

You're right

[@guidosarducci3047]

Did u torque at 70 lbs? thanks man

[@PetesGarage]

Follow the torque specs recommended by the manufacturer

[@guidosarducci3047]

@@PetesGarage Thanks bro... Sorry for all the questions. It was missing from the box. I got it now.

[@seangangstad9597]

Aren't those the wrong head gaskets for aluminum heads.? Mls might be better???

[@PetesGarage]

They will work fine, but you can use MLS is you want the upgrade.

[@Moparmaga-1]

Well I hope when I measure mine they're exactly 78cc if they're 76 ill be over my "on the verge" for pump gas 92 compression

[@PetesGarage]

That's why it's important to check

[@tedshredz58]

I was just about to ask Pete which heads he used because all the TF Mopar 240 heads I’m finding have 78cc chambers.

[@Moparmaga-1]

@@tedshredz58 yeah, they're computer cnc so there shouldn't be any variances unless there's a bit of shift in the mold but I doubt it. These heads visually are a proper aftermarket performance head. I dumped rubbing alcohol into all ports after I unboxed them & absolutely nothing came through any valve. In the combustion chambers I am going to hit em up with 120 grit roll to get them soothed out. A guy on a mopar forum got the 240s to flow 350cfm @ 600 lift by 80 grit rolls in the intake ports just removing the tooling marks.

[@larrymagee8758]

No lube on those head bolts?? My mistake.

[@PetesGarage]

I use the lube that comes with the ARP fasteners

[@johnrosado9245]

Part numbers would be great too.

[@PetesGarage]

I have a list if you'd like it

[@johnrosado9245]

Please email me it. [e-mail] Thank you again

[@PetesGarage]

Send an email to [e-mail] and I'll reply

[@davedocker1195]

I do not claim to know anything about after market heads, however I have watched a number of KZbin posts. Nobody takes the heads out of the box and bolts the to the block without taking them apart and checking them. I have seen a lot of mistakes from the manufacture.

[@PetesGarage]

That is not a bad practice. I inspect the heads visually. Most defects can be seen if you know what to look for. When you get up to $1,000 per head you can have more confidence in them right out of the box.

[@dontaylor7069]

Hey Pete, spoke with you a month or so ago about my 76 Dodge 440 big block, that had zero oil pressure! You gave me lots of reasons why this was happening! Greatly appreciated! Turns out, bent pushrod, intake valve number 5 cylinder! As this engine is in a Apollo RV! Access is extremely Limited! Seeing how mileage is so low, thought I might get away with replacing just the one push rod! Not so, bent the new push rod, instantly! Could this be the result of timing chain jumping a tooth? Not looking forward to, but getting ready to tear down front of RV! Just so I can have access to what I need to teardown to inspect timing chain and gear! Before I waste a whole bunch of time! Is this scenario possible?

[@PetesGarage]

I can't see how a bent push rod caused no oil pressure. It's not in the pressure part of the system. I also can't see the timing chain jumping with low milage. You can certainly look to see, I'd be interested to know.

[@dontaylor7069]

Hey Pete, Don with the 76 440 RV, I guess I left the part out we're in the process of the push rod bending, it left its seat on the top of the lifter and was laying beside it and was bent at almost a 135 degree angle! The lifter was intact! I am tearing down the front of this monster as we speak. Grill, oil cooler, transmission cooler, as the radiator did not contain one! AC condenser and dryer. All this,pluss the radiator overflow tank, as to allow access to the radiator, which of course has to come out, so I can get to, well you all know the rest. I will let you know what I find when I get in there! And so the push rod leaving its place in line of the valve train, would certainly cause a great loss of oil pressure? Correct?

[@PetesGarage]

Possibly, if the lifter got stuck blocking the oil passsage

[@ThePaulv12]

You need to tale a systematic approach to this. Step 1 is to resolve within yourself that there is no quick fix here. When was the last time it ran? Did this happen when you started one day? Or did it break down? My hunch AND I COULD BE WRONG is that the heads have been reconditioned at some stage and valve seat inserts fitted. They sometimes fall out and cause this type of problem. Usually it is an exhaust seat that drops. It jams between the valve and the head and holds the valve open. Then the piston hits it and bends the valve jamming it in the guide. I would pull the rocker gear on the head that keeps bending the pushrod. Try to push down the offending valve - either by using the palm of your hand or a lever of some description. Perhaps first, try some other valves to see if you can get them to move so you know how much pressure to apply. Usually about 100lbs will move a valve.

[@davedocker1195]

I have watched many KZbin post that say never do what you are doing. they say to disassemble them and check them because they are always wrong

[@PetesGarage]

Disassemble what?

[@AB-80X]

@@PetesGarage I think he means the heads... I had to clean mine, but they were not wrong at all. I suppose he heard it on the innerwebs, so it must be true...

[@Popsm0ke]

I'm definitely getting some trickflows for my procharged 451. I saw where the customer only wanted 500 hp. I bet that was beyond easy with those heads

[@PetesGarage]

t was just over, around 518 I think

[@AB-80X]

The 240's can support a lot of power. I make well over 640 hp n/a on my 540 with a Howards 723235-08 cam. If you build a good engine and put a procharger on it, you can easily make 800-900 hp with the 240's.

[@michaw1674]

@@AB-80X You are a bit too optimistic with power. High quality 470 will make 750ish with TF 270 heads but it will require some money on the table. You want that kind of hp you need Indy or B1 ported by someone good to flow 400cfm not to mention not very streetable bfc ;-)

[@waynewalleye8458]

SHOULD'VE MENTIONED HOW YOU CHOSE THE HEAD GASKET THICKNESS AND WHY

[@PetesGarage]

When I build an engine that requires a non-stock gasket I'll do that

[@billybadtoes]

Because it doesn't matter if they're a brand name or not, ive seen even the best ones leak

[@PetesGarage]

The question is how much

[@jeffdiamond3900]

i bet those heads would make a 383 scream

[@PetesGarage]

They sure would!

[@blah9664]

I'm thinking about getting a pair for my 383.

[@ericburk7301]

Purchased E-Street Edelbrock Alum heads for my 440. Anyone using these have any comments. Not installed yet.

[@PetesGarage]

They will work fine with a little porting and polishing work

[@fredvillareal3929]

On a 1968 440 big block

[@bigrob0061]

Sorry but B1 Orginal heads blow those outta the water so does indy

[@PetesGarage]

Thansk Robert

[@jamesfeil2468]

Robert Parker Nothing wrong with Trick Flow 240 or 270 heads for BB Mopar. Indy makes great heads too. You claiming Indy out preforms TF without giving a application, use, compression ratio, cam or type of fuel delivery is a little too broad of a statement. There’s 1000’s of dyno run tests on engines producing big HP with TF heads.

[@Moparmaga-1]

@@jamesfeil2468 yep Andy finkbeiner has 750 on the 240s with a 470 cube engine.

[@Moparmaga-1]

B1 heads don't just bolt on and you can't use any & all of your factory parts either like you can with trickflow. Indy heads in this price range don't make the same power either, or flow numbers especially since were talking a standard port head. Hands down trickflow 240 wins in a apples to apples test. Or as you would say "blow them out of the water"

[@billhancock5698]

Best head available??? ever heard of INDY? the Edelbrock Victor head? or even the Trickflow 270 head? I could probably smoke your mill with a iron head, hyd cammed lo buck 470

[@stevejanka361]

Oh man ain't that pretty. Thanks and take care.

[@PetesGarage]

Thanks Steve

[@TxJonathan]

I don't care how pretty this engine I hope you run the piss out of it or it would be a damn shame with all those performance parts.

[@PetesGarage]

I agree....wait until you see it on the dyno in a couple weeks.