DIY: Diagnosing a Faulty Water Pump

Video tutorial on how to diagnose a faulty water pump on a vehicle. This video consists of two different areas which include gaskets and the bearing. Water pump models do vary between vehicle makes and models. Some are equipped with a mechanical clutch fan such as what is shown in the video, others do not. Some water pumps can be driven by an accessories belts, other by a timing belt, they can also be hidden under a timing belt cover if your vehicle has a timing belt engine. Any faults with the water pump could be just routine maintenance or causes by other issue under the hood which in turn create premature failure of the pump. This particular tutorial was done on a 2003 Dodge Dakota.
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Symptoms of water pump failure:
-leaking gasket between the water pump housing and engine block
-worn seal around the shaft bearing which causes the coolant to leak out the bearing vent hole
-worn out bearing which would make a howling or grinding noise
-excessive "play" in the water pump shaft
Causes:
-regular usage which causes wear over time (routine maintenance)
-broken mechanical fan which causes the water pump shaft to be off balance
-worn mechanical clutch fan assembly which causes the water pump shaft to be off balance
-leaking water pump shaft seal which washes out the lubricant within the bearings
-worn/dried out gaskets/seals that cause a coolant leak
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

[@teeithighandletitfly]

Sir, just a observation. You've got a voice that's made for radio. Have you considered a auto repair show on your local am stations on Sunday mornings. In my opinion your your voice coupled with the way you instruct viewers here on KZbin you would be a success. Just one man's opinion. Thank you for taking the time to help people.

[@4DIYers]

I really appreciate the feedback and kind words! Unfortunately I don't have much free time for other business endeavours, took on too many projects currently lol.

[@4DIYers]

+ThamMalaysia Hi Tham, It could quite possible be a vale guide issue if they weren't installed properly. There was a 6cyl Mitsubishi engine we had available on our market many years ago which was very common for having the valve guides fail, therefore causing the vehicle to burn oil. Have you done a compression check on the engine??? That will determine if you have faulty cylinder rings. Also it could be a leaking head gasket as well and that would show up in a compression test too. I do find it a little odd that the oil shows up around the washer location on the spark plug. The spark plugs do not go down the center of the valve cover, correct??? The only thing you can really do if it's failing rings it to use a heavier weight oil. You may even be able to switch to synthetic if you're not using that already and it will reduce any extreme wear.

[@4DIYers]

Moe Smith Normally the top hose is hot and the bottom hose is cooler. Do you mean there is no heat in the cabin or that the temperature isn't coming up in the engine? Also have you pressure tested the system?

[@12101DyM]

Can a water pump be defective even if it isn't leaking? I think my water pump isn't providing enough water flow. I think this because my engine gets hot at idle and cools down when I'm at 2500rpm regardless of if I'm moving or not.

[@pacoblancosmith]

Perfect tutorial on water pump assessment. I knew a number of the signs but haven't worked on one, until now, and wanted to confirm what I thought I knew! This is a top rated video in my opinion....keep up the great work and don't change your style or format because it is nearly flawless!!

[@4DIYers]

Glad to help out and thank you for the compliment!

[@4DIYers]

I hate to say it, but that definitely sounds like you have a faulty water pump. If it was leaking at the mating surface on the block maybe the gasket didn't seat right or it didn't torque down flush. But leaking at the bearing there is a problem with the bearing seal. Hopefully you can at least save some money & return it back to Autozone. If not call the manufacturer. I had issues in the past where a supplier sold me a faulty part & wouldn't warranty it, so the actual manufacturer did instead.

[@4DIYers]

@blanca martinez It could be caused from a variety of issues.... Such as a plugged radiator or water orpheus in the engine, faulty head gasket, improper mix of coolant, or a stuck thermostat.

[@evilcowboy]

How I diagnosed mine it was pretty easy. poured coolant in. Heard air bubbles, coolant leaked out from under pump. Gotta get me a new one. The LX5 Engine is just a weird engine anyway. Nothing ever breaks on it like it does on a normal engine. I think the gasket got weak and the closed system blew it out and created quite a large leak. Still haven't gotten down to taking it out to determine where it failed but will post back to let others know who may have hte same engine.

[@BrettHoustonTube]

Nice clip, thanks. Is there a good test to determine if pump blades are damaged without removal?

[@4DIYers]

Thank you everyone for the compliments and support!!! Don't forget to like my video and subscribe to my channel. Also please follow me over on Facebook, Google+, Twitter, and Pinterest.

[@4DIYers]

Some pumps do fail within a year of when they were just replaced. There is definitely some faulty parts out there, especially none oem parts. But then again I've experienced some work done by licensed mechanics which was questionable too. Bar's Stop Leak is only a temporary fix and it can also plugs up small orifices within the system which can cause problems down the road. Are you certain the pump is leaking??? Are there any signs of the leakage??? It might even be best to get a second opinion.

[@kylekozma6573]

Great video. I have a project truck that my 16 yr drives. I believe the water pump has failed. Hard to find a trust worthy mechanic. All signs point to water pump.

[@lancecass8997]

It's often a water pump, and they'll sell you a transmission. Be careful

[@4DIYers]

The impeller on the water pump could possibly have deteriorated which is a common problem also found on other vehicles as well. It wouldn't be the bearing because the pump is a direct drive on the belt, therefore the engine speed controls the speed of the water pump. It would spin regardless unless the bearings seized up and burned the belt off.

[@jackhouyhnhnm20]

Great video with good camera work and clear explanation without any ego trip.thank u

[@4DIYers]

Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words :)

[@4DIYers]

Do you know if the reservoir is overfull??? Or it could possible be a faulty pressure relief valve which is increasing pressure and heat in the system (which makes the fluid expand more), therefore the fluid needs somewhere to releasing, which would be why it's pushing out the cap.

[@albertolerma4720]

Hopefully u see this, i have a 03 dodge caravan and it looks like its not getting coolant in the motor and the upper holes the one that goes to the thermostat gets real hard cant squis it with my hand and my resovier is full and pumping coolant out,wat u think could be

[@freedeadtree4056]

My goodness thanks for this video bro. Perfect explanation. 10 gold stars ⭐️ ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

[@4DIYers]

Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback :)

[@stevew6910]

Nice video. Also people do not realize how bad it is to run straight water in a cooling system, Anti freeze is also a lubricant

[@4DIYers]

Thank you. Antifreeze is definitely not a lubricant, while it may seem to be greasy it can actually cause damage as some coolants contain additives which are abrasive. Straight water cannot be used as it doesn't thermally exchange heat as well, will boil, and can freeze. Don't forget to subscribe :)

[@tuckerlocke1504]

@4DIYers I'm wondering if my 2007 Pontiac Torrent water pump is going bad. When I'm driving down the road my temp gauge stays between the 1/4 line and half line, but when I stop like at a stop sign for a minute to a minute and a half my temp gauge goes above half and the cooling fan comes on. Would that be a sign of the water pump going out?

[@irishoodlums7145]

Thank you Jesus 🙏

[@rebornsol]

What is the best way to check for coolant flow on these motors? Typically, I'd first check by feel the temp on all of the hoses and then (with the engine back to a safe temp) pull the radiator cap and visually inspect the flow inside the radiator. With these guys having the cap on the upper hose, I'm just not so sure... I pulled the cap, cranked it up, but seem to have less volume passing than I'd expect (roughly 1/4->1/2 full). Is this an indication of poor fluid movement or a result of the system not being able to reach full pressure since the cap is off? Just before all this began, while on the road I was forced by circumstance to allow a shop to service the vehicle and they replaced the water pump. Although I tried to lean towards caution by using a big name chain shop, I've come across enough issues from that service trip in this diagnosis process now that I am home that I trust 0.0% of their work at this point smh. Any words of advice at this point would be appreciated

[@ThamMalaysia]

Hello, I drive a local Proton Iswara, with the Mitsubishi 4G13 engine, 1,298 cc. The water pump was replaced a few months ago when the previous one leaked. The replacement was one of those Japan brand ''TBK' water pumps, but I am not sure if it came from their Thailand factory, where the quality control is not so reliable. www.tbk-jp.com/en_products/index05.htm www.tbkk.co.th/product.php?pid=14 The unit replaced is the same at the top right photo in second link. These two weeks, I seem to hear an occasional faint high-pitched noise. It can be heard, faintly, from inside the car when driving. So I squatted beside the front left wheel arch when the engine is running, and there does seem to be this faint noise from that area. It is where the alternator, timing belt cover and airconditioner compressor is located (it is a front wheel drive car). The timing belt, tensioner with bearing and timing oil seals have also recently been replaced, about two months before the water pump. It has now run about 11,000 km ( 6,600 miles) since then. The mechanic and his assistant both listened carefully for the noise, placing the end of a long screwdiver on the alternator, timing belt housing and aircon compressor's idler pulley bearing too. They said they couldn't seem to detect any noise from the above three items. However, I forgot to ask them if it might be the water pump bearing. The water pump, in these type of engines, is located behind the timing belt. Takes quite a bit of dismantling, including the belt and its tensioner bearing, to get to it. What might be your opinion ? The sound is certainly not like the lower pitched growl or grind when you turned the pump bearing - it is just a faint, high-pitched, continuous, kind of metallic noise. It is there sometimes, at other times not. That aircon idler pulley bearing, a small unit about an inch wide, was also replaced at the same time as the water pump. Goodness, if it is the water pump bearing about to give way after just a few months, I don't really have the money to replace it. Thank you for your assistance.

[@Querencias7]

Most E X C E L L E N T tutorial. Nicely done with cause and effect visuals and explanation.

[@4DIYers]

Thank you for the feedback!

[@kevinmejia4099]

I'm looking for a car and found a 2011 Toyota Corolla but it is salvage it was crashed and the bumper,lights,hood,and water pump was damaged and REPAIRED by full coverage insurance should I buy it ? Please reply ASAP THANKS

[@4DIYers]

+ThamMalaysia It is very possible that it could be a faulty water pump. Hopefully there is warranty on the pump itself if there is any faults with it. I know with parts here, as long as a licensed mechanic installs it, the part is covered, but unfortunately the labor is not. Now with regards to a fault in the pump, it doesn't necessarily mean the seals are leaking, so the coolant would be washing out the grease in the bearing. If the pump were to fail and seize up, beyond having the chance of overheating, it would also destroy the timing belt and you have the possible chance of bending the valve if that is an interference engine (I'm not sure if it is or not without looking it up). Now it could also be something else causing the issue. Even something as similar as the belt could also be causing it. Are the belts loose or too tight??? If the belts are too loose, they'll slip. If they're too tight, it'll but too much strain on other components. Sometimes it's just the material of the belt on the pulley causing a sound. You can purchase a belt dressing to spray on them (not for the timing belt though). Have you also tried different conditions for the sound to appear. Such as trying it on a damp day vs dry day, warm vs cold engine, ac on/off, turning the steering while the car is running, will it appear if the car sits for a longer period of time, and with all the electronics on/off does it affect the sound of the alternator.

[@ThamMalaysia]

Thank you for your kind and professional reply. Unfortunately, in Malaysia, there is no real ''warranty'' on parts, once you have opened the packing and installed the unit. The system here is really backward and pathetic, apart from the usual one to three year parts warranties when you buy a new car. Water pumps do not cost that much, about M$50 (US$16), but the labor cost to replace them on these kind of badly designed timing belt-driven engines is not cheap. Easily takes two to three hours of hard work to open up everything just to get to that measly pump, and then reassemble all of it. That was why a mechanic told me many years ago that timing belt engines are ''useless troublemakers'' and seriously flawed designs. Yes, this is an interference engine, as with most standard OHC, hemisperical combustion chamber types with timing belts since the 70s. It is actually quite silly to use what is essentially a rubber band to take the heavy torque of the crankshaft. My previous car, a Toyota Corolla KE70, had an OHV engine with a short double chain, and I replaced that only once in 16 years of driving, long after it had been rattling away. The water pump on that engine was located externally, just behind the fan belt, driven by it. An easy half-hour job for the mechanic to replace it. And I replaced the water pump on that car only once in 16 years ! Those days, it was a GMB unit from Japan, very durable. These days, a mechanic told me that GMB pumps come from Thailand, where they have had cases of bearing noise coming right from brand new pumps installed. The previous pump replaced on this car (two months after I had replaced the timing belt !) leaked just after two years - a GMB from Thailand. I had not replaced the pump at the same time as the belt, because I did not expect it to fail so soon. The current TBK pump's bearing is not very reliable too, if the unit is from Thailand, I have been told. Yes, and as you had advised, the pump, being located behind and driven by the timing belt, would have catastrophic consequences on the belt should the bearing fail and seize up. A very bad case of engineering design. I have indeed heard of many cases of snapped timing belts on this type of car causing bent valves and a horrendously expensive repair job costing four figures, whether due to premature wear of the belt from leaking oil timing seals or leaking water pumps, or simply due to premature breakage of the belt itself. Yesterday, the mechanic's assistant replaced the aircon idler pulley bearing to try to rule that out for a start. He also loosened the belt there, as well as the alternator belt, a little bit. Both appeared to be a little tight before that. I asked him about the water pump bearing, and he placed a screwdriver end on the pump housing, listening carefully with the engine running. He said it did not appear to be coming from the bearing, and usually such noise was usually a lower growl or grind, as in your video. I also dripped some of that grey-colored silicon-based lubricant, normally used for tight power window seams or wipers, but also helpful for belts, in the grooves of their respective pulleys of the alternator, crankshaft and aircon compressor clutch and idler, then started the engine to let the belts run over and be lubricated. This usually quietens belt noise for at least a few weeks. If this doesn't help or is not suitable (does this kind of lubrlcant soften the belts ?), I'll go get a can of the belt dressing. The same noise did still come on for a few minutes after that, but today it appears to be somewhat quieter. I'll see how it goes the next several days. Thank you again for your good information.

[@4DIYers]

Not a problem, glad to help out! Unfortunately we do have some issues here with warranties too. Depending on the manufacturer or supplier, some will honor the warranty, others won't. Definitely gets upsetting when you pay for a product, they advertise a guarantee, yet don't support their product. I can't say I'm particularly a fan of timing belts. Some tend to be more user friendly to work on than others too. I've done quite a few timing belts in the past too. Both my current vehicles are timing chains. Timing chains are known to have issues as well, some do also have intervals when they needs to be replaced sooner than later, close to the mileage of timing belt engines. A good practice with a timing belt motor is replace all the common maintenance parts when replacing a timing belts. So that would include and ilder pulley, tensioner, water pump, and belt. Normally the parts aren't overly expensive, but it saves added future time, costs, and headaches. I once had my mechanical clutch fan fail, then take out my water pump along with it on my 1998 Nissan Pathfinder. The pump wasn't driven by the timing belt, but the timing belt still had to be removed to replace it. Personally I found that vehicle not very user friendly to work. As for parts, it's good to stick with oem suppliers too. I know at times it can be more expensive, but if it's something as important as a water pump it's worth it. Would you be able to contact the manufacturer and find out if it was made at their Thailand plant??? If you are using a silicone based spray, that will be fine. Some belt dressing do contain a silicone base, so it's basically the exact same thing. It shouldn't cause any issues and it'll protect the belts too.

[@ThamMalaysia]

4Diyers Sorry for the delay in replying. I've had enough of this old car, seems to have endless problems. Just can't afford to repair or maintain it anymore. I've long been thinking of going back to take a bus, but the bus transport here to and from my place of work is so hopeless - a bus every two or three hours, last bus 7 pm. Just when we were talking about the water pump, the radiator seems to have started leaking. First I thought it was coming from a loose bottom radiator hose, but same after tightening. I placed a small mirror underneath and managed to find a tiny leak, maybe a little bigger than a pinhole, at the left corner, maybe an inch from the hose. Tried swiping some red gasket silicone sealant there, but, as expected, poor product for the job, didn't work. I can't really afford to let those radiator shops take it out and weld it. They charge a bomb here in Malaysia these days. Moreover, the four mountings nuts are not in very good shape, with some rust, so I am trying not to uninstall it. This is because my elder brother told me that once, he thought the fan motor was vibrating, but after the mechanic threw it away and replaced another one, it was the same. Finally my brother adjusted it carefully himself and tightened the mounting nuts properly, and it seemed better. Just goes to show that mechanics here are not reliable these days. He threw away a perfectly good Nippondenso motor for nothing, not to mention had to pay him for the cost of the rebuilt motor and labor. I understand there are some good quick-setting epoxy putties (JB Weld or something) that might just be good enough to seal small leaks when applied on the outside, and take the heat and pressure at the same time ? Goodness, now that I have applied that gasket sealant, I wonder if that may have to be removed before applying any sealant. How am I going to reach that narrow corner at the bottom tp do that. Thanks again for your kind assistance and good experience. May I ask your name, by the way ? Kind regards, Tham

[@ThamMalaysia]

4Diyers I happen to have this leftover two-tube ''super strong modified acrylic glue'' here. Maybe can be used as a filler for that hole. Cures in just a few minutes. Wonder if this might take the pressure and heat ? kafuter.en.alibaba.com/product/627650998-214238461/Kafuter_Modified_Acrylic_AB_Glue_AB_Glue.html

[@4DIYers]

Hi Tham, No problem... My name is Matt. I know the feeling about running into one thing after another. It can be such a headache, happens all at once, and when you least need it. A motorcycle is always great transportation when the weather is good if you have access to one. Oh wow, sorry to hear :( I have heard of people using JB Cold Weld to fix radiator repairs without any issues and it seems to work as a permanent fix. I've used it on some applications in the past, an exhaust leak would have been one of the more extreme conditions. Now depends if the area is metal or plastic, you'll have to get the right epoxy application. You'll want something that is compatible with either plastic or metal, something that is able to withstand heat (200F/94C), and is chemical resistant. Don't purchase anything you put in your coolant system, that risks the chance of plugging something up you don't want to. Now when applying the epoxy, you'll have to drain the coolant system down until it's below the leaking area. Coolant will leave a film on the area which can prevent the epoxy from sticking. You'll have the clean up the previous gasket material you applied before too. A soft wire brush might help or sand paper might do the job too. Before sanding I would use brake cleaner to clean the area off. Just so when you're sanding, it doesn't rub the coolant around. Then sand the area with 120grit and clean with brake cleaner again. You'll want to apply the epoxy at least 1"/2.5cm around the pinhole. That product that you posted, it does say it's high strength, but comparing it to regular glue makes me question it a little. This is definitely something you want to do once because it makes it all that much harder the second time around. Especially when you have to clean the old epoxy off. For your rust issue, there is something which you can use to slow the process down. You can either have the car oil sprayed or purchase cans of oil spray and spray the areas yourself. Krown is the product I use here and I'm very happy with it. They do sell aerosol cans of their product and one will go a long ways. Mechanics replacing parts just for the sake of it, that's complete nonsense. I've heard of a large amount of stories here as well. Well actually, a car I purchased a while back almost went through for something it didn't need. I bought the car off the buyer and he was quotes $800 for a wiper motor replacement on the car. Once I got the car home, I had a good look over it and the bushing for the wiper arms in the cowl were seizing up. I took it apart, cleaned the parts up, applied some oil, and everything worked like new! Worst part was, even if the car had the $800 replacement job, it still wouldn't have solved the problem. You're welcome, glad to help out!

[@recoveryprofessional]

Hey another way to tell if you have a older car, some water pump fan blades will erode away thus stop moving the water but the bearings may be good, so no noise, no play, BUT one way to know if its bad and its overheating and everything else is working, ie fan, hoses, cap, thermostat, radiator, proper mix(100% coolant will over heat your car too, or if coolant is low) ect, is DO A COLD START W RAD CAP OFF and at least by the time the fan comes on the thermostat should of opened to cycle water through the engine block and water should be visibly moving in the radiator. DOES THIS SOUND CORRECT TO EVERYONE? Or should water be visibly moving right from initial cold start because the belt is moving so the water pump should be moving water, or is it like a AC compressor where it has a clutch that has to engage on the compressor before it will actually kick on and cool your car? Input please. Either way my theory should be correct and one way or another you should see water moving either instantly or within 5-10 minutes. My only concern is the theromstat opening should move some water too just because of the different pressures(heats) and could give a false positive that the water pump is good because u see water moving then. Input is appreciated.

[@4DIYers]

Joshua Sulwer Great tip, thank you for sharing! Only issue I would see is that not all vehicles have a radiator cap. Some only have a cap on the expansion tank and you can't normally see the coolant being circulated there.

[@sneekysmurf4754]

Does anyone know if the reason I have no heat in my 2008 Jeep Liberty 4x4 is because I may have a bad water pump please ❓ 1) I replaced the thermostat. 2) I I flushed it, tapped into the 2 hoses going int the firewall, but I only did it the way the water flows. 3) My device by my gas pedal, that moves the air from like the floor to the vents are moving so I don’t think it’s that. 4) I do have antifreeze in the radiator. 📌Can anyone please shed some light on this problem I’m having please? Someone suggested I replace my water pump P.s it doesn’t over heat!

[@AgapeYah]

good info. My 91 grnd marquis had coolant leaking from weep hole so I am order replacement now. thanks.

[@4DIYers]

Thank you and happy to help!

[@venM9]

Similar noise from my brand new water pump. I checked everything. Changed pulley, alternator, fan. Etc. It has to be the new water pump. Its quiet when idling but when I accelerate the noise is similar to a bad bearing.

[@glenroyferguson5390]

i have a 08 Chevy trailblazer my water pump started today making a clinking noise just as you mentioned in your video,Thank you for the vid.

[@jacoballen8327]

My water pump failed today. I have a Volvo S80 and replacing the water pump is a major job beyond my capabilities... I had an appointment for today to change it and it failed a mile from the shop...

[@billyboobie7422]

my wifes cousin stabbed the gas passing and the plastic propellor broke free of the shaft.driving slow i turned and semi functioned when accelerating the pump shaft would slip.yes a 4.7 dodge 202 dakota 4x4. when we got the new replacement it had a metal propellor no problems since but jus advice there was no leaks no growling bearings no broken seals just a hot motor.HOT. but if you take the radiator caps of when cool.you"ll see fluid circulating if not thermostat or water pump.

[@larryb883]

Yup. My pump is bad. Thank you

[@4DIYers]

Happy I could help!

[@CrazieFrogz]

TY

[@PamellaWilliamsSplash]

How do I know if I have a bad water pump by listening for bad bearings and that's it.

[@kevinmurphy7579]

My water pump on my 4.3L Vortec failed and it didn't have any of the symptoms nor was it caused by anything that you stated in this video.

[@4DIYers]

Oh I agree they are awesome. They're very durable, great for pretty much any task. My dad gets them from an industrial supplier at work when the truck comes by, not sure what their name is though.

[@sftballjunkie41]

Excellent demonstration. Solved my problem. Now all I have to do is buy the parts, disassemble and put back together.

[@4DIYers]

Glad to help out and thank you for the feedback :)

[@mellanielongpre7145]

Wow, this was just perfect for diagnosing the water pump on my Chevy pickup. Thank you so much.

[@4DIYers]

You're welcome!

[@moesmith4339]

i have a 1997 dodge 1500 pick up no heat n no presure in the radiator top hose is hot bottom is cold is it the water pump or radiator ? can anyone help me get this right i am not sure what is wrong

[@jamiehalifax4954]

So good bearings should have no noticable play whatsoever?

[@pbhd8]

Simple and precise great vid. New subscriber incoming

[@zekicakal750]

Hi if water pump gasket start liking that's will be effect the getting hot air inside the cabin.ty

[@4DIYers]

Thank you! Unfortunately the only way would be to remove the covers to inspect for leaks or listen while the car is running for any bearing issues. There is a fair amount of vehicles that come with timing belt driven water pumps here also. What I like to do is once the timing belt is due for a change, it also replace the water pump as well. They normally aren't overly expensive and it's cheap assurance rather than having a pump issue which could cause the belt to jump and bend the valves.

[@danthegreat7590]

My dad has a v6 pentastar engine and we cut the power off and there is a whine coming from an area near the water pump could it be a leaking seal the engine over heats badly when let sit for a while even faster at high speeds

[@shanetodd5953]

Good tutorial!

[@4DIYers]

Thank you!

[@ryanlatterell2079]

Thanks bro, hit the nail on the head, 4.7L dodge. Gunna do it myself I guess

[@4DIYers]

No problem!

[@ThamMalaysia]

Hi Matt, it's Tham from Malaysia again. Seems I have to bother you for your good expertise every now and then, quite embarrasing for me. My car's engine, the Proton Saga with the Mitsubishi 1,298 cc 4G13 OHC 12-valve engine, had been consuming some oil, and leaking it onto the spark plugs. It has done 110,000 miles then. So the mechanic replaced all the valve seals. He used good Viton-type ones. It was then good for about 6 months, and then the 2nd cylinder's plug started getting oiled again, quite black and wet near the electrode area. I was puzzled, thinking that the valve seals for this cylinder had worn out again. However, what was strange was that, a bit later, the oiling was reduced, and even at times, this plug looked quite dry with just a bit of darkness at one corner. The blackness was more at one side of the end of the insulator, near the exhaust valve, so I thought the seal for this valve was leaking again. I could see some oil around the ring of the hole in the cylinder head, where the spark plug seated. So about 3 months ago, I had the mechanic replaced them all again, this time with very good quality NOK Viton ones. However, the problem with the second cylinder did not really improve, and about a month ago, the No. 3 cylinder's plug also started having the same problem, fouling with oil a bit, though not that bad. I could see oil again around the seat of the hole, where the spark plug's washer seated. I asked the mechanic which of these might be the cause of this - the worn valve guides, worn valve stems, or piston rings. He said usually valve guides and valve stems did not tend to leak oil into the cylinder, so it was likely the piston rings It has now done 130,000 miles. I was wondering - short of a replacement of the rings, are the some good additives which might help to ''seal'' worn piston rings to a certain extent, such as Ametech's ''Engine Restore'' ? I know those usual viscosity improvers such as Bardahl 1 and STP don't really work and just makes the oil thicker.

[@AJFresh69]

This is one of the few videos I have seen where there is a text write up that quickly details what is covered in the video, accompanied by a concise video explanation that doesn't take all day to watch nice job!

[@vinny3725]

There a humming noise that sounds like it coming from the water pump, can that be possible, oh its a 2000 ford explorer v6 4.0

[@samuelasavu5025]

My 1995 BMW 316i doesn't seem to be leaking but the coolant builds up pressure and comes out through the lid when I turn the engine on. The car starts to over heat when driving just a few kms. There's also a squeaky noise comeing from my brand new fan belt. wondering if that has anything to do with it.

[@cherylfolston8945]

Very well done. You have a soothing voice and its easy to listen to for these type videos. I didnt know the pumps had seals. I have been told my water pump is done and the person who said it, said he could feel it by spinning it with his finger. My 2003 Volkswagen Passat started smoking under the hood. All the coolant ran out. First time overheating. I was told the bottom hose came off because it had no clamp. Now I'm being told, firstly, thermostat, then, waterpump and now gasket by different people. Each of them didnt seem to know what they were doing. I was told I needed the #4 spark plug, as it had water in it and this mechanic could not find what the problem was until I allowed him to put in the spark plug. He says he did a diagnostic but would not know the second code he got, until he put in the spark plug. The first mechanic (a backyard mech.) told me thermostat. He was suppose to put it in the next day but never came back. Someone else put it in but because it was still overheating, they determined waterpump. I was going to get some Blue Devil Gasket Sealer because the car is now old and I see no point in spending so much money. I only need it for another few months. What I dont understand is, why the car was not overheating before all this damage, which they claim was caused by the hose coming off or the water pump was bad or the gasket was busted. Sorry if all this sounds crazy but I'm a bit confused. Also there is no smoke coming out of the tailpipe but I did notice that the passenger side headlight kept going out. We've had the car 5 months and have had to change it 3 times.

[@4DIYers]

Thank you! Well the only way they would be able to spin it by hand was if they removed the timing belt which isn't an easy job on the B5 Passat models. If caught in the right time when overheating, it won't do any damage. If left too long, the excessive amount of heat can damage can be quite severe. I can't see there being a reason to change the spark plug, especially just one. All should have been replaced as it's proper practice. The overheating issue could possibly be from improper coolant system bleeding, therefore there is an airlock in the system. I'm not normally a fan of coolant additive sealer as they can cause more problem, but there are some good products available on the market. The headlight could be a bad connection or if you're accidentally touching the bulb with your hands, that would also cause the issue. The oil from your skin will create a hot spot on the bulb, eventually burning it out. Don't forget to subscribe!

[@DeuceDeuce80]

Easily one of the most informative videos I've seen on the subject. Thank you, Sir.

[@4DIYers]

Thank you so much, appreciate the feedback!

[@froglegs4910]

if water pump leaking you coolant tank will be emptyed very soon !

[@4DIYers]

Yes, depending on the severity of the leak.

[@spreegriffin2350]

4.7l 2006 dodge ram 1500. Oil leaking by bottom pulley on or near water pump. Is this a timing cover gasket leaking?

[@icemancometh8679]

I have a 1989 Pontiac Grand Am and hardly any heat inside. I replaced the thermostat and filled it with antifreeze. My temperature gauge on the dash reads about a quarter of the way. I'm wondering about the water pump but there's no leaks.

[@myryagrace6555]

Hi there. I am in the process of replacing the water pump on my 1992 Toyota Corolla 1.6 liter A4FE. Looks like I am going to have to take all the belts off to do so. Any advice, wisdom or really important things to know while I'm doing this? The radiator seemed to be leaking a few weeks ago, then 5 days ago my husband (yes, he doesn't know much about cars) put stop leak in it and it started making just like the sound of bad bearings on this video. Could the stop leak have caused this? It seemed like it was leaking a little fluid before this from the radiator drain, but it didn't seem like enough that it would need to be refilled this often. Is it common for the radiator to leak when the water pump is going bad? Just wanting to make sure I don't do all this work, just to have another issue I didn't think of. Thanks!

[@mannyvelo]

I have a 91 corolla with the original water pump. 242,000 miles! What a beast! It's making that same grinding sound the old pump was making when he turned. Having to fill up Coolant every 2 weeks. I know if it goes I'll be stranded. Going to get it don tomorrow. Ugh.

[@user-qr8ki8ue4i]

This is helpful. Thank you. Driving my 1999 F350 (124,00 miles) diesel today I noticed coolant dripping from the center-front on the ground after I parked it. Then, when I started back down the road to the gas station, the engine temp indicator was intermittently very hot/cold, and intermittently blowing cold air/hot air with the heater on full blast. Checked coolant level and it was very low. Added coolant and barely limped back home on a wing and a prayer.I am *hopeful* that it is the water pump and not something else more serious.

[@4DIYers]

Could possibly be a water pump. You will need to take a closer look to ensure it is leaking. Other possibly issues can also be a rad hose or radiator. Don't forget to subscribe!

[@user-qr8ki8ue4i]

4DIYers Thank you!

[@josephhbangers9697]

I have silver specs floats on top of radiater in the antifreeze would that be from the waterpump??

[@tommygunmang2261]

I have a 4.7 dodge dakota. Replaced the radiator and thermostat. But still over heats after about 4 hours of driving cause I deliver in my truck. No leaks. No residue on water pump. No noise from water pump. I wiggle the clutch fan and its sturdy not loose. I can't determine what the problem is. Help?

[@georgestanton2545]

Question 05 Mazda tribute 3.0 v6 overheated removed thermostat, refilled reservoir and started the vehicle and pumped no water. Also no noises . Any thoughts?

[@tony5991]

Have a dodge ram 1500 3.7 2004 my powering steering pump went out also my water pump at the same time. I replaced water pump about a week ago. Any reasons why they both would go out??

[@4DIYers]

AnTrAx That is unusual. Is the power steering pump caveatting??? Sometimes what can happen is the coolant can leak onto the power steering belt, which would result in a loss of power steering. As for this truck in the video, the power steering pump is just starting to act up, but it has 350,000km on it currently.

[@elcompajoe714]

I need help! So I bought a 81 GMC Sierra short bed and it has a 350 , which started leaking bad, it basically poured water bad each time I would pour water in the radiator? What can be the problem ?thanks!

[@4DIYers]

Joe Silerio It is quite possible that one of the seals on the water pump could be gone. You should see some residue around the area is it leaking. Other issues could also be a coolant hose, head gasket, radiator, heater core, and a couple other areas depending on your engine's design. Are you seeing puddles on the ground??? Is it leaking with the engine on or off??? If I remember correctly your engine bay should be fairly open to get a good view of all the components.

[@emperorofrome6346]

Hi. My name is Ryan. Excuse the gamer like KZbin name its my sons computer. I have a 5.9 liter dodge ram that's leaking coolant from under neath and I popped my hood open to see more coolant in the inside of my passenger wheel well and on top of the fan guard. Could it be the water pump is leaking under my truck and when its running it drips on the fan that throws it ever where or what? I'm hoping it isn't the radiator

[@4DIYers]

EmperorOf Rome Hi Ryan. It could very well be. With coolant leak, it will leave a residue as well. Do you notice a residue on the mechanic clutch for the fan or on the shaft??? Are you able to use a mechanics mirror to get a better look at the front of the pump???

[@jaredplatsis191]

Great video and Thanks for Sharing! I do have one question though. If the bearings go out will you see water/antifreeze like you would if the seals go out?

[@4DIYers]

Thank you! Not necessarily, there is still a seal between the bearings and coolant. The grease can still dry out over time, not providing lubrication and eventually burning out the bearings.

[@2Jeezuzisreal]

On my 2000 chevy v8 5.3 it was major leaking suddenly. I removed the old pump it looked very new and it spun nicely. It had 2 aluminum gaskets i believe one blew out. The Alumaseal did not seal it and Normally i have 99% good results.(poor mans fix) So i got a new pump. I used 2 C clamps on pulley wheel and pipe wrench. Rapp the wrench hard. My old pump spins smoothly and no bearing noise.

[@williamloving9629]

my 2001 Dodge Dakota keeps leaking water and it looks like it is coming from the bottom side of the water pump, solution?I am assuming it is the water pump.The fan is not loose like you said check and not coming from any hoses.Is this the best solution?

[@4DIYers]

Sounds like either the mounting surface gasket or the seal from the bearing could be leaking and the coolant is migrating downward. It's best just to replace the gasket and while you're there, replace the pump too. The leak will eventually get worse and I don't recommend a stop leak either as that can cause other issues in the system.

[@williamloving9629]

4DIYers TKS I think I will replace the pump and just do it the right way instead of a temporary fix Tks for your help

[@billwilliams6338]

4DITYERS Is there any other water pump testing you can do to test and check if the water pump is pumping water into the cars engine and into the cars radiator correctly? How do you test the water pumps Pressure?

[@AlmalikyAli]

great info. Thanks a lot

[@2Jeezuzisreal]

I've never had a problem using a "Alumaseal" on water pump full size engines (except for Cadillac) if your heater core clogs try reversing the hoses on firewall. Old clogged up systems may not work so you will have to start with a chemical flush. Also if you loosen the radiator cap it will not pressureize and allows the particles to stick in the pump seal...then after 100s of miles tighten it up. And as for Subaru(should be spelt S U C K S) the 2.5 box engine is a factory blunder that they supposedly fixed in 2003. As are several other Subarus on newer models. Ours continued to over heat so i drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the thermostat. We only buy full size chevy now.(since ford ruined 100million engines).

[@LineDriveBros]

Just replaced my fan clutch a few months ago, and it fixed my truck, but the other day I noticed the fan is no longer engaging and starting to over heat again. Could this be a water pump issue now?

[@4DIYers]

Could be the water pump, a plugged radiator, or thermostat. I just had my Ram overheat due to a water pump failure. I ended up going over the whole cooling system, replaced the rad due to a small leak, flushed the whole system, and even found the thermostat seal has a tear.

[@marcyramsdell6581]

Thanks! Excellent job on tutorial. I think diagnostics ly amazing! I've watched so, so many. You have the knack! Thanks! I believe I can do this now WITHOUT CHECKING PHONE AND PULLING HAIR OUT! THANKS! MY BARINGS ARE BAD. 94 JEEP 4.O6ltr. Broke down 7 mo. Ago in freezing weather. Gonna replace water pump thermostat, and serpentine belt. You are my "New Go to Guy" No bs! THANKS BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY, MARCY

[@vibrantsource]

Very professional, really know a good deal about water pumps and they're function, really have my hopes up that a new water pump will stop the temp (dodge caravan 2012)needle getting close to 2 o clock, and dealer suggestion leaking head ga$$ket (hummm)

[@midnightrun1256]

1:50-1:58 only works if you a viscous clutch doesn't necessary work on Japanese cars or on 4 cylinders cars

[@4DIYers]

That is true, a transverse engine doesn't have a mechanical fan. But there will still be an external shaft with a pulley which can be checked for movement upon disassembly.

[@innovation8837]

I have a coolant leak. I bought a new radiator . Everything was good for about 15min then it started leaking again. I checked the rubbber lines no wear or tear . Idk whay it is. Any ideas ?

[@4DIYers]

You can pressurize the system to help determine where a leak may be kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYOnkqWZnr2Zrck and you can also use a dye to help highlight a leak kzbin.info/www/bejne/anTdoJSnhM9qeZY

[@johnhodg8400]

would a bad water pump cause a rattling noise or what could in my 1992 chevy 305 engine.

[@4DIYers]

Not really, more of a squeaking sound. In order to properly diagnose a faulty bearing is to remove the belt and turn it by hand. You'll feel if the bearing is failing right away.

[@ERICtheLATE]

Hello. I installed a water pump on an '05 ram an thought i made a good choice by choosing the one at autozpne with the metal impeller and FOUR months later it leaks out of the bearing!!! I am sure it shouldnt leak at all, its not squeaking just seeping out of the face of the pump, onto the crank pulley then the ground. Are there ways to cause this during install??or crapufacturing?? btw bearing has no play or squeak. Good vid.

[@mathewdienger8774]

Hey so I have this same engine and it seems I’m leaking coolant from around the water pump area seems to drip after I turn the vehicle off after driving for a little bit could this be my gaskets worn out or a bad water pump ? I seriously lost almost all my coolant after 3 months of driving till I over heated last week now I’m just trying to figure it out myself please help

[@4DIYers]

If you're replacing the gasket, you'll already have the pump off so it's cheap insurance to replace that as well. But make sure you use a good quality pump as some are known to have a premature bearing failure.

[@zafartaha]

I have a Ford Explorer '97, 5.0 L 8 Cyl vehicle. I replaced the water pump just recently but then I noticed there is leaking of power steering fluid (like overflow through its cap). What does it mean? Is it a real big problem? How will it effect the car? Please reply...urgent! Thanks

[@dajjana19933]

Hi, I have 2001 ford escape and it is getting hot, even though the radiator is cold; i did change the thermostate after the long hose busted because of high pressure in it; is it the bad water pump? What is the problem?

[@4DIYers]

+Mohammad Ali You may still have air in the coolant system. I would recommend bleeding the system first just to be safe. After that, is the coolant mixed correctly??? I do have a video on how to test the boiling point on your coolant. Next, was the vehicle overheated when that coolant hose broke??? You could have risked overheating the engine, therefore you may have a faulty head gasket.

[@shelleywinstead6092]

have 2001 dodge dakota please show from bottom of motor where waterpump is. i crawled underneath truck and water coolant was dripping there is a gasket that is overlapped on this part just not sure if it is the water pump it is behind all the serpitine pullies

[@ericazhu6270]

The obvious noise phenomenon of the automobile pump indicates that the internal part of the pump is beginning to be damaged. The main cause of noise phenomenon is that the bearing begins to damage or the impeller begins to loosen when rotating, and gradually breaks away from the rotating shaft, thus the phenomenon of noise occurs.

[@christopherharris6216]

I got a 1991 camero. I changed the thermostat 180 degree, I changed the radiator aluminum. . I still over heat when I hit the gas. . What I mean is the faster I go the hotter it gets. . If I go fast then sit at a stop light it will go back to normal? The only thing I havent changed is the water pump.. somebody said the berrings in mybwater pump arent going fast enough thats why it over heats when im going fast please let me know what you think before I get rid of this thing.. please

[@mikecioka1180]

thanks bro nice video, very informative.

[@fabianfrenchman5842]

I have 2009 chevy Montana van heat problem heat works good on high idl but when I let go of the gas starts to blow out cold air why I changed the thermostat what bad water pump

[@ThamMalaysia]

Hi Matt, sorry to bother you again. This is regarding clutches. Clutch discs, or plates, usually have four torsion springs on them, but one brand for my car, Aisin , has five or even six, while another, Exedy, has just three. I wonder if there are any advantages or disadvantages here ? Thank you again. img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/scorpio_wan1945/PICT0019-1-1.jpg i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/jeffbboyz/IMG_3864.jpg

[@4DIYers]

ThamMalaysia Not a problem, glad to help out. Normally with more springs the clutch will allow for smoother shifting and more springs are also able to distribute the torque better. Personally I think the clutch with the higher amount of springs would be the better option.

[@ThamMalaysia]

4Diyers Thanks again, Matt. That was what I had guessed too. However, this sales guy at a parts shop told me that clutch discs with more springs actually tended to slip, which puzzled me.

[@ericcyr1981]

So i have a 2004 Nissan Xterra & i can smell antifreeze its not my head gasket cause i'v'e got plenty of power. No fluids mixed in all fluids, & no signs of leakage why am i smelling antifreeze? Any advice or thoughts would be great!! Thank you i'd rather do this myself rather then hire a garage or dealership!

[@4DIYers]

+kidd Cyr Sounds like you could possibly have a leaking heater core. Are you noticing the fluid going down??? Is there any liquid building up under the dash somewhere, usually in the center of the dash above the tunnel???

[@ericcyr1981]

4DIYers No the fluid stays the same as always and i"m not noticing any wetness under or near passenger side floor board & heat is hot if turned on but will check better in middle of dash if i cant find a leak in middle i"l do a pressure test. Thanks

[@evonneruffin8230]

please help i have a 2017 toyota avalon the water pump went up but my car didn't run hot. is that possible.

[@4DIYers]

Yes it is possible.

[@albertolerma4720]

I have a 03 dodge caravan looks like its not getting coolant in the motor and the upper holes the one that goes to the thermostat gets real hard cant squis it with my hand and the reservoir gets full pumping coolant out wat could be. i replace the thermostat lots of coolant came out added a little after and its the same. Any idea what could be

[@sangrambhosale4341]

I am a foundry man, I am manufacturing cast iron impellers of several varieties mainly includes open as well as close type impellers , mainly used in water pumps which are used in commercial vehicles as well as on gensets. I want to know various reasons of failure of cast iron impellers in water pumps like vane worned out or like slip of impeller on shaft etc.

[@4DIYers]

Sangram Bhosale Vehicles don't have cast iron impellers, they're either made from stamped steel or plastic. The main issue with impellers is either they deteriorate if they're steel or they break from being plastic.

[@sangrambhosale4341]

I am a foundry man, I am manufacturing cast iron impellers of several varieties mainly includes open as well as close type impellers , mainly used in water pumps which are used in commercial vehicles as well as on gensets. I want to know various reasons of failure of cast iron impellers in water pumps like vane worned out or like slip of impeller on shaft etc.

[@10RFuentes]

cast iron is shit that's why

[@Sauceromeogaming]

Hey my car never over heated when I use AC n I turn it off then it stop then I Did a coolant flush an it over heats when driving could this be my water pump? I tried to bleed it out but air wouldnt come out I drive a Lexus ls400

[@2cyclemix]

Thanks for the video. My 98 Dakota w/ Magnum V6 make the same clicking/ticking sound when I grab the fan blades with two hands and push/pull it back and forth. It doesn't seem "tight" at all. The engine makes a rattling sound with a cold engine that will subside once it has warmed. It is hard to isolate exactly where it is coming from. Is this a classic symptom of a worn water pump? I believe it may be the original water pump. It has 69K miles.

[@4DIYers]

2cyclemix Did you remove the belt when checking for play in the water pump shaft?

[@2cyclemix]

4Diyers I don't recall. Should I remove the belt?

[@2cyclemix]

I checked it with the belt both on and off. It definitely has more play with the belt off and some coolant came out with the belt off. I hope that came from a weep hole if the pump does indeed have one.

[@4DIYers]

2cyclemix To get an accurate test, the belt should be off. It definitely sounds like your water pump is on it's way out. There shouldn't be any play whatsoever and I would recommend replacing sooner than later because if it does fail down the road, it can cause damage to other things as well.

[@russellmoodley7970]

Very informative, many thanks for sharing!

[@4DIYers]

No problem, always happy to help!

[@parrendernalta3719]

Great video. Very helpful. Thank you sir

[@daviddevito8019]

If there's a water pump problem does it leak when vehicle engine is not running?

[@biebercrew2012]

I have a older model ford suv and I can put water in radiator and it comes back out as fast as I put it in around the water pump area without the car running what could this be I cant see where it coming from

[@4DIYers]

savannah hamilton Could be a rad hose, you may need to remove a couple components to get a better look or use a mechanic's mirror.

[@3000Shaan]

Clear and concise video, very helpful thanks !

[@4DIYers]

+Shaz Ahmed Thank you.

[@glendrake4807]

d

[@stigonutube]

Good Video and help with diagnosis of my pump fault.

[@nemesisnta9333]

I just changed my water pump and thermostat, but my water pump feels hot to the touch, both are new parts and put coolant in it, what can be the cause?

[@chanceharrington4375]

This is an excellent video! Thank You so much.

[@4DIYers]

Thank you and glad to help out!