4th Gen Toyota (2007) 4Runner Real Axle Seal Replacement

4th Gen Toyota (2007) 4Runner Real Axle Seal Replacement
I looked all over for a clear video on how to change the rear axle seal on a 4th gen 4Runner. I found a LOT for the 3rd gen, but was coming up short for a good video that outlined the process for my 07 4Runner.
Changing the seal is absolutely the easiest part of this job. That darn emergency/parking brake though is absolutely crazy to put back together. I have it figured out now but going through it literally took me hours to do. As you'll see in the video I finally zip tied the two side springs closed to keep them from falling off the pins. Thinking back I wonder if putting a thin zip tie thru the two ends caps that snug up against that spring would work even better. At any rate I finally got them in. I'm patient and I like doing things myself so I didn't really mind. If those aren't big qualities on your 'who am I' list then you'd be better off paying someone to do this repair.
I imagine though the video will certainly clarify the process and give you some ideas to get thru it a lot quicker than it took me. Good luck and have fun.
Here are some of the tools and materials I used on this project...
Jack, Jack Stands and Wheel Blocks
Oil pan, shop towels
24mm socket for the rear diff drain and fill bolts
75w-90 gear oil at 3.2 quarts for the v6 4WD
Sockets to get your wheel (& spacer) off. Mine are 21mm for the wheel and 19mm for the spacer
Grinder to cut the top of the brake line bracket
10mm socket for the brake line bracket, speed sensor nut and parking brake cable bolts
17mm socket for the brake bracket
Slot screw driver, pliers, vice grips for jacking around with the emergency brake springs
Amazon links to the other tools and products are here...
a.co/eJsYCAR
I would totally appreciate you getting them thru this link as I make a bit of $$ from Amazon if you get them there. But for sure go with what's best for you.
Torque values (check these to confirm for your rig) are
36ft lbs for the diff drain and fill
91 ft lbs for the axle nuts
77 ft lbs for the brake bracket bolts
65 ft lbs for the brake glide pins
Again, this isn't a terribly hard job. The brakes took time as I was trying to figure out the technique. When I ever have to do the other side though it won't take nearly as long (I hope).
Some of the products I use and trust...
www.amsoil.com... (this is my Amsoil Dealer site and I would LOVE to discuss this amazing way to protect your truck)
#Isagenix bentleycoachin... (this is my primary nutrition and health system)
#Offroadgrind @offroadgrind
#Bentleycustomoffroad
#overlandexpeditionoutfitters @overlandeo
#dobinsons @dobinsonssprings
@specialty_products_company
#redarc @redarc_electronics
#maxitrac
#iceco @iceco_icecool
#badlandsapex @harborfreight
#coleman @colemanusa
#thenorthface @thenorthface
#4Runner @toyotausa
#emsoffroad @emsoffroad
#topoathletic @topoathletic
#falkentire @falkentire
#harborfreightprojects

[@d.g.9606]

Great video, thank you! It really helped me get through the seal replacement. Here are some tips and info from my experience to hopefully help others: The part numbers and dealer price I paid: seal (90310-58003 $13.17) and o-ring (90301-83002 $6.23 mentioned but not replaced in this video, but might as well replace it while there) - I wanted to "do it right" and not cut the brake line bracket as shown in this video. I had the correct 10mm flare nut wrench, used penetrating oil and some heat and proceeded to completely round the brake line nut (D'oh!). Not wanting to replace the metal brake line, I proceeded to cut the bracket as shown in the video. Your experience may vary, but I recommend cutting the bracket. - If taking apart the parking brake looks daunting, you can leave it all in place and remove the axle. You must release the three retainer brackets holding the parking brake cable onto the frame, and you will stretch the parking cable uncomfortably tight, but I did it. Having a helper guide the axle back in without hitting the new axle seal is good idea. - The axle seal can be seated in place by using an old Toyota oil filter (90915-YZZD3). The filter fits perfect and the rubber seal of the oil filter cushions the axle seal. Just tap the filter gently with a large hammer. This will destroy the filter, so save your old one for this. - If oil soaked your brakes, the recommendation is replacing. An alternative is to take apart the caliper and clean and degrease everything, as well as sandpaper the pads (same for the drum parking brake pad). Take your time and clean and sand well if you are going this route. - I filled the first 3 quarts of gear oil on jack stands for a little more room, but ensure your final differential fill and check is done off jack stands/jacks and level. - If gear oil sprayed your wheel and wheel well (very likely), you will spend the majority of your time on this job cleaning everything. This is important to ensure your brakes are not impaired as well as verifying the seal leak is fixed. Brake cleaner helps, but physically scrubbing with brushes and paper towels will be needed. Using other degreaser solutions may be helpful as well. Good luck!

[@OffroadGrind]

D.G. Thanks for all those great tips. Especially like using an old oil filter for searing the seal. Brilliant

[@seanf6868]

What is the ring inside axle tube part #

[@d.g.9606]

@@seanf6868 Not sure what ring you are referring to, the only ring inside the axle housing shown in the video is the seal, which I listed the part number in the post above. There is a ring spring that goes around the axle seal rubber, but that comes with the seal.

[@seanf6868]

@@d.g.9606 it was the back side of axel seal is what I pulled out, thinking it was an o-ring🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️ created a problem I didn't have cost me 1/2 to 3/4 of a day + cost of new ring

[@d.g.9606]

@@seanf6868 Oh, got it - ouch. The time is the worst part. The seal should be under $15 unless your dealer is really ripping you off. Be sure not to seat the seal too far in - the video is a good guide. I think I seated mine a bit deep and it slightly weeped for a number of months, but seem to have stopped now.

[@burningapartmentbuilding]

its been 4 months and more than 5000 miles since i did this on my '08 4runner and so far its held up. i didnt take appart the parking break. i did what another comment here described by removing the 3 parking brake retainer brackets so you can pull the axle out far enough and leave the cable connected. i did have to remove the running board cuz it was in the way. i also replaced the breather incase it was clogged. a mechanic i went to at first wanted $2300 for the job and everything around it. i have very little experience working on my car but im glad i did it myself. thank you.

[@burningapartmentbuilding]

also the only tool i had to cut a notch in the brake line bracket was a sawzall. definately awkward and not recomended but it worked out lol

[@OffroadGrind]

@@burningapartmentbuilding great you liked and got some use from the video. That’s some good sawzall skills cutting that little bracket. Nice work. Happy wrenching.

[@NVRFLDN8]

Wow what an amazing job, God bless you. I know for a fact that parking brake work was so difficult but it came out great !!

[@OffroadGrind]

Thanks Nathan. Yeah I didn’t ‘want’ to do the parking brakes but I knew I needed to. Glad to get those suckers done.

[@synecamilan30]

This is basically the same process for 5th gen 4runner, 3rd gen Tacoma, FJ, and LX models. Been looking for some details on this process!

[@OverlandPNW]

Wow great job on showing how to do the axle seal replacement!

[@greenjondear]

Thank you for your excellent video. I am contemplating replacing the seal on my '07. However my PB pads are completely soaked in diff. fluid and will have to replaced. The PB hardware replacement is the absolute worst part of the job. I've watched a couple of other videos on PB replacement and no one has figured out a simple/non-torturous means of installing the retaining springs. I assume the first person who had to work on 4Runner PB hardware invented "swearing" 😱! Your patience is admirable. If I had similar perhaps I'd give this a shot....otherwise about 95% certain I'll head to the auto shop. Thanks again though for all of your helpful information....SM

[@OffroadGrind]

El thanks for checking out the video. Yeah it’s a hard part of the process. Those small zip ties sure help a lot but those little springs are nasty and have a mind of their own.

[@edgarordonez8345]

Thank you man I’m having the same problem with my 4Runner sr5 now I know how to fix it lol

[@OffroadGrind]

Thanks Edgar. I’m sure it will go smoothly. Crazy how inexpensive that seal is (under $15) and how much it would cost to have that repair done somewhere. I enjoy learning how these machines are put together so it’s fun in a way

[@TheDesertRat31]

Nice video. I'm waiting for my rear wheel bearing to go, or an axle seal. So far so good. I'll be ready to fix it whenever it does. A suggestion: When you're using grinders and other loud power tools. It would really help the viewers to edit that section and reduce the volume. Your videos have erratic volume, so to hear you talk, we have to turn up, but then we get blasted with power tools. Those angle grinders are murder on our ears.

[@OffroadGrind]

Hi Bob good to know. I can probably tone the grinder volume down on my computer for those clips. It doesn’t seem to come thru that badly when I’m editing it but I know what you mean.

[@TheRealMikeWilly]

If you have ceramic pads, brake clean will do a mighty fine job of getting that gear oil off the pads. The parking brake shoes however, are semi metallic and definitely need replaced after being oil soaked.

[@OffroadGrind]

That’s great info Mike

[@d.g.9606]

Can the seal be installed too deep? Mine has started leaking again. I did seat the seal until it bottomed out. Is this correct, or should it be just flush with the outer housing? It could be the bearing, but I have no play or noise from it. The diff breather was the first thing I checked the first leak and it was fine, but I still took it off and cleaned.

[@OffroadGrind]

I have a feeling it probably could be installed a bit too far. When I took my old one out it was flush so I tried to put it back in flush too. The second side I did I think I tapped it in a smidge too far but it’s been ok. But it didn’t bottom out

[@ozstriker5281]

First of all, thanks for the video. I have a few questions but I will keep it to one. I am about to tackle this exact job and I am wondering how your wheel bearing is holding up?

[@OffroadGrind]

Thanks for checking out the video Oz. I’ve done both sides note for the axle seals, and both wheel bearings are good. I think some ppl do both when they’re in there but it’s not terribly complicated the timing Bent on my v8 Tundra) so I just did what needed doing.

[@lukedias5859]

I’ve replaced the seal and entire axle shaft assembly with new bearing and collar, still smell burning gear oil when I get outa the vehicle. Any thoughts?

[@ukrsindicat]

I'm guessing that I have to do this along with the rear axle gasket while I have the wheel aparts. I heard if the gear oil is leaking then it eventually will destroy the wheel bearing.

[@OffroadGrind]

I’m not sure about that. I caught the leak soon after it started so just replaced the seal on each side when it happened and haven’t had any other issues since.

[@seanf6868]

What is both o-ring part # ? Is it on Amazon? I need overnight?

[@jaynoypi7015]

Can you send me the link of your repair manual book

[@bripgilb]

💯

[@lukedias5859]

Did you smell burning fluid slightly for a few days after you did repair? I just did both sides and can still slightly smell it when I exit vehicle

[@OffroadGrind]

Like I didn’t but I do occasionally get a burning oil smell but I think it’s more from a very slight sweat/leak around the passenger side valve cover

[@lukedias5859]

I noticed on the 3rd gen videos they don't drain the differential fluid, or at least don't show it. I just replaced my diff fluid. Think it's safe to catch it in clean container and put it back in? For sure have to drain it before removing axle? My wishful thinking wants a different answer lol

[@OffroadGrind]

Hi Luke, thanks for checking out the video. I suppose you could put it back in if you just recently changed it and wanted to save some money. But if it's been in there for any length of time I'd take that opportunity to replace it. Right after I replaced this right axle seal (and changed the rear diff fluid) I became an Amsoil Dealer (I'll add my link below for you to check out) and replaced the front diff and engine oil after that but had JUST replaced the rear diff so was waiting. Well, a few weeks ago the left axle seal went out so I put the Amsoil Severe Gear diff oil in there. It's apparently good for like 100,000 miles so I'm good for a while now. They have some great products, let me know if you have any questions but you can become a customer through my link here, www.syntheticsusa.com/d/30434485/

[@lukedias5859]

@@OffroadGrind Do you run 75w-90 gear oil? Thanks for the link

[@OffroadGrind]

@@lukedias5859 yes that’s the exact grade I use in the differentials.

[@PJP1989]

Did you use a press kit?

[@OffroadGrind]

No Sir. I tapped it in carefully and send to have done the trick