4WD Automatic Hub Engagement Troubleshooting & Solenoid Bypass '97 to '18 F150, 11 to 18 Super Duty

[@shanezwack4305]

Thanks for the breakdown. It really seems then, that a broken vacuum line (they get brittle in Nevada) would cause the 4 wheel drive to engage on its own... When you are not asking it to do so, in any way. More likely that than the 4x4 electronic shift motor

[@benjamincastillon2568]

Thank you man...thats all I needed to know about thosw 4wd fords....now I know how they work and what can go wrong..great video

[@StilesAutomotive]

Benjamin, You are welcome, I appreciate the comment! - Stiles

[@johnthorp4546]

Excellent video and explanation that we can all understand!

[@StilesAutomotive]

Thanks, John, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@mikenilson6744]

Alright great video! I see what I need to check before I spend money I don’t have, thanks!

[@StilesAutomotive]

Mike, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@tobydog247]

I like the military spec battery retention system. :)

[@StilesAutomotive]

Toby, I did a video to talk about what I did in detail and how I designed the Dual Batteries (See link below). If you are going to change something; either put it back to Stock or design to make it better. Often, it is easy to make it better! - Stiles Dual Battery Design & Install; Modification for Any Car or Truck, Shown on 2004 to 2008 F-150 Trucks. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmGYqGiqq5tnnZI

[@markkilgus9500]

In my 47 years of greasing I have never seen such a potential fire hazard as you have illustrated in this video with the ratchet strap being so close to the battery. I was very interested in this video until I saw that at which time I lost all interest. Good day sir.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Mark, Actually the Ratchet Strap is holding the Battery, one for each Battery. And nope, the Ratchet Handle is not long enough to touch the Battery Terminals. In 4 years and 50,000 miles or more, it has not been a problem. But you are correct if it did, it would be a fire or explosion (Battery dependent) hazard. I show the Dual Battery design in detail in my Stiles Automotive Video - - Dual Battery Design & Install; Modification for Any Car or Truck, Shown on 2004 to 2008 F-150 Trucks. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmGYqGiqq5tnnZI I appreciate the comment! - Stiles

[@IJustStep]

At first I thought you were being harsh, now after seeing holy shit lol.

[@aaronmoore5552]

Had quite a few issues with my truck that I fixed. Vacuum lines were completely broken and one hub was leaking. I got it them corrected and then realized the vacuum box was leaking through trial and error rearranging the vac lines. With 12v to the solenoid (2wd) it wasn’t engaging. So I will order a new solenoid and vac box on Tuesday. I have the vac lines bypassing the vac box and solenoid so I can drive without damaging hubs. My only problem is checking at the vac solenoid connector unplugged I’m getting 12v no matter if the truck is in 4Wh, 4wl, or 2wd. I’ve seen some people say that there is still a small amount of voltage to the solenoid even when 4wd so I am going to replace the solenoid first and see if it will correct.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Aaron, Yep, don't drive 80 mph on the interstate with your IWEs engaged, otherwise for 50 to 55 mph driving the Integrated Wheel Ends (IWE) (like automatic hubs). You didn't say the Model Year and information on your Truck, so I assume it is a 2004 thru 2008, like the video. Read thru my answers to the comments here, I had a couple of very detailed answers. You should see 12 Volts (or Battery Voltage) at the Solenoid. With 4WD Selector Switch in 2H (with Key “On”)? Ans: Battery Voltage or ~11.8 Volts on the Power Wire (Pink Wire / Lt BLU Stripe) from Fuse 11 (10A, Red) 4x4 Solenoid and the other Red Wire goes to Powertrain Control Module (switched ground) will show ground. What should the voltage be at the Solenoid with 4WD Selector Switch in 4H and 4L? Ans: The same or ~11.8 Volts on the Power Wire and open or no ground on the other Red Wire to Control Module. - Stiles

[@kevinkennedy1365]

This basesickly bypasses the gem box

[@jimscruggs5400]

Good info, thank you

[@StilesAutomotive]

Jim, You are very welcome. I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles

[@terryboylstein472]

Thanks for any help

[@StilesAutomotive]

Terry, I appreciate the feedback, I replied to your question in your other comment. - Stiles

[@RodgerMyers]

My 2007 F-150 changes into 4 high and 4 low , but the fron axle does not engage even with the vacumn lines off of the hubs . I think the electrical part you describe is fir the transfer case selction and nothing to do with the IWE engagement ??? Thanks for any advice .

[@StilesAutomotive]

Rodger, Not true, the Vacuum Solenoid I'm holding in the thumb nail for this video is the Actuator for the Integrated Wheel Ends (IWE) which pull out the IWEs into free wheel. Springs move the IWE back into "engaged" or 4wd when vacuum is removed. The Solenoid can stick in either position, but if you say the Vacuum Lines are off, your IWEs should spring back to engaged. You need to replace the IWEs. - Stiles

[@rickyd1798]

Helped alot. Thanks

[@StilesAutomotive]

Ricky, ok, very good! I appreciate the comment. - Stiles

[@dw-rh6fb]

Definitely informative. Ty.

[@StilesAutomotive]

DW, I appreciate the feedback! You are welcome. - Stiles

[@dw-rh6fb]

@@StilesAutomotive I was told to check my relays, probably the fuses too, and I was looking to see how, but this truck is a parked problem so common problems like this are good to be aware of.

[@brucemcgimsie4544]

How about first checking vacumm lines at hub. After replacing solenoid and check valve nothing changed. Sure enough I crawled underneath and one of the vacumm lines had become disconnected. This may have happened when I previously got stuck in a deep snow drift? Works perfect now.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Bruce, Yep, most of the time, it is the simplest of things. As a young Army Mechanic, I learned to first ask the Operator, what was the last thing you did. Then describe the problem to me. And . . . . that is the only time(s) my 4WD has given me problems, is when I needed it most! I appreciate the comment! - Stiles

[@shawnclark8796]

Ok you video was on point. Good job. Not that I’m anybody to say this but I’ve been looking for a troubleshooting Gide that has some step by step diagnosis and your the closest one yet to my issue. I have the same truck 05 f150 lariat. My question is what should the voltage be in 2H at the solenoid if any or is there voltage when it 4h or 4L. To cut through the chase. My vacuum is good. No issues there. No leaks and my hubs are good. No leaks. When I flip the switch I get nothing at all. And I think it’s my switch that’s bad but still no trouble shooting guide for it. So I’m shoot from the hip on this. Oh and my relays are good. Better say that as well.

[@StilesAutomotive]

Shawn, To answer your questions and then work the problem: 1) What should the voltage be at the Solenoid with 4WD Selector Switch in 2H (with Key “On”)? Ans: Battery Voltage or ~11.8 Volts on the Power Wire (Pink Wire / Lt BLU Stripe) from Fuse 11 (10A, Red) 4x4 Solenoid and the other Red Wire goes to Powertrain Control Module (switched ground) will show ground. 2) What should the voltage be at the Solenoid with 4WD Selector Switch in 4H and 4L? Ans: The same or ~11.8 Volts on the Power Wire and open or no ground on the other Red Wire to Control Module. 3) 4WD Selector Switch (or Electronic Shift On The Fly Switch) has 4 Pins (labeled 1 thru 4, left to right); a) Pins 1 & 4 Switch Illumination, b) Resistance between Pins 2 & 3 of 4WD Selector Switch (3.9 K Ohms, 1.1 K Ohms, 360 Ohms). The resistance tells the PCM the Switch Position and desired Mode (2H, 4H, or 4L). To remove the switch it has three plastic tabs on the back, (see the RockAuto website, FORD > 2005 > F-150 > 5.4L V8 > Electrical-Switch & Relay > 4WD Switch). If you know your 4x4 Relays are ok, you probably have checked your Fuses: Fuse 11 (10A, Red) A/C clutch, 4x4 solenoid in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel (in the Rightside (or Passenger’s Side) Kick Panel) is the Fuse for the Solenoid. Also Fuses 29 and 30 (Both 15A, Blue) PCM 4x4 Power in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel power the Transfer Case Actuator (and Transfer Case Shift Indication). Fuse 111 (30A, Pink) 4x4 Relays on the lower right of the same Fuse Panel. Like I said in the video you should be able to hear your solenoid (or at least feel it) click and hear your Transfer Case Motor. You should be able to hear (or at least feel) your 4x4 Relays on the inner fender well near the Vacuum Brake Booster. Let me know how it goes - Stiles Solenoid Wire Colors: Pink Wire / Lt BLU Stripe (Pwr From Fuse 11) RED to PCM (switched (-))

[@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt]

@@StilesAutomotive I didn’t ask the question however I appreciate the detailed and informative feedback. Thank you

[@bignate06nrk]

Do you have this same level of knowledge for a 2002 f250 SD 7.3? I am at my wits end. Checked ohms on the switch it’s good Replaced both relays Bench tested Tcase actuator it is working When I turn the switch I get no feedback, no lights. Only thing I can find online points to the GEM. I pulled it and it has no visible damage or corrosion. Fuses are good and no stored trouble codes Please help

[@michaelbrett3749]

Interesting but more questions arise. What does the dash switch actually do? Does it switch off the vacuum solenoid so the hubs lose vacuum and therefore engage? Or does it do something down in the transfer case. I have hubs engaged when truck lifted and engine off. When engine turned on hubs disengaged. Seems normal. When dash switch on to 4wh no dash light on and no engagement of 4 wheel drive. Is it the vacuum solenoid ,or something else down at the transfer case? Also how many fuses are involved. Note at turn on key dash lights show 4wh and 4wl . What other steps to troubleshoot? How do you prove the solenoid? Can it be taken apart and fixed? You mentioned a clicking noise when son turned on 4wh but indicated it was in the transfer case. How many volts should be on the vacuum plug? Should voltage be constant or no voltage when 4wh switch on dash moved?thanks ....the vac solenoid is

[@StilesAutomotive]

Michael, I attempt to answer each of your questions: (but first my video covers 1997 thur 2018 F-150 and Super Duty; I could be more specific if you told me what Truck you have) 1) What does the dash switch actually do? I talked about this in great detail in the video, however, if you have an F-150 older than 2004, you have 2 vacuum solenoids on the firewall; the 4WD Switch powers the IWE Vacuum Solenoid and powers the 4WD Actuator on the Transfer Case (for 2004 and newer). For older Trucks, it powers Both IWE Solenoid and the Transfer Case Solenoid. 2) Does it switch off the vacuum solenoid so the hubs lose vacuum and therefore engage? No, it switches "ON" vacuum so the Hubs (or properly called Integrated Wheel Ends (IWE), but "Hubs" is common term) . . . so the Hubs disengage. This is designed to allow the Hubs to fail (no vacuum condition) to 4WD, so you not get stuck when you need 4WD, and if you don't need 4WD you just use more Fuel. 3) Or does it do something down in the transfer case. [?] Yes, it does, see question 1. 4) I have hubs engaged when truck lifted and engine off. When engine turned on hubs disengaged. Seems normal. Yes, this is normal! 5) When dash switch on to 4wh no dash light on and no engagement of 4 wheel drive. Is it the vacuum solenoid ,or something else down at the transfer case? This sounds like you have a bad Transfer Case Actuator, which is very common. Again the 4WD Switch powers the Actuator when the Actuator moves and then gets into gear, a Position Switch in the Actuator sends power to the 4WD HI or 4WD LOW Indicator Light on the Dash. (This description is slightly different for older than 2004 Trucks) 6) Also how many fuses are involved. Note at turn on key dash lights show 4wh and 4wl . What other steps to troubleshoot? Fuse 17 (30A) in the Power Distribution Box in the Engine Compartment powers the Transfer Case Actuator and may be at fault. Also Fuse 12 (10A) in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel, powers lights and relays (probably not at fault). 7) How do you prove the solenoid? Put your finger on it and have someone more the 4WD Switch from 2WD to 4WD, it should click and you can feel it. Or, you can remove the Electrical Connector and power it with 12Volts. 8) Can it [4WD Vacuum Solenoid] be taken apart and fixed? I wouldn't, it is very inexpensive ~ $ 30.00 (or $40 for Motorcraft) 9) You mentioned a clicking noise when son turned on 4wh but indicated it was in the transfer case. Yep, the 4WD Actuator moves and makes an audible click. 10) How many volts should be on the vacuum plug? Should voltage be constant or no voltage when 4wh switch on dash moved?thanks ....the vac solenoid is. You should have Battery Voltage (11 to 12.6 Volts). Because of your question 5 above, and this, Your Transfer Case Actuator may be stuck and trying to move. When you more your 4WD Switch is there a noticeable load on your electrical system? I watched part of my video again, and I did a good job describing the 4WD system, at least for the 2004 and newer Trucks! -Stiles

[@michaelbrett3749]

@@StilesAutomotive Thank you for the reply, it is quite helpful. I took off the transfer case motor actuator and it did turn when power applied. I attempted to remove the 3 T15 screws to get at the inside. Apparantley whatever is behind the 3 T15 screws after sitting for a while can be the problem . One broke and two just crumbled. I was attempting to rotate it by hand so tha it might free up. I then got a local price on the motor at $275 so i bought one new online for $77. This was after checking all the relays, fuses and the solenoid on my late model 2004 F150.

[@cericson3426]

Excellent video but doesn't address the issue I'm having I don't think, I was driving my truck the other day and it kicked into four-wheel drive several times even though the switch was in 2wd. I also have two solenoids on the firewall mine is a 97. My truck is kept under a carport so it doesn't receive a lot of rain I don't drive it a lot either other than hunting around the farm. Any advice would be appreciated

[@StilesAutomotive]

C, You didn't give me much to go on. 1997 F-150 4WD. How do you know it is going into Four Wheel Drive? Like my Truck, you have 2 sides to the 4WD activation System, 1) the Front Wheel (or Integrated Wheel End (IWE)) Hubs that include one of your Firewall mounted Vacuum Solenoids, and 2) unlike my Truck which has an Electric Motor Actuator on the Transfer Case, you have a Vacuum Actuator on your Transfer Case and a second Vacuum Solenoid on the Firewall. If you are not touching the 4WD Switch on the Dash, I suspect you may have a vacuum problem, either a vacuum leak somewhere causing your 4WD System to have a problem, or a leak in your 4WD System. Based on what you said, makes me think your 4WD light on the Dash is indicating your are in 4WD, that is the Transfer Case side, so there is either a leak in the Vacuum Lines/Hoses or your 4WD Actuator on the Transfer Case is leaking. One of my main points in my video is that, when the 4WD IWEs fail, they fail in 4WD, this is a no vacuum condition. I believe your Vacuum Actuated Transfer Case is the same way, when it fails it goes into 4WD. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles

[@cericson3426]

@@StilesAutomotive it's going into four-wheel drive I know this because the four-wheel drive light comes on on the dash and when you slow down and turn sharply especially on pavement you can feel the wheel hop. You can also feel it when you're going down the road you can tell the difference when it's in 4-wheel drive and when it's not. But you can hear the click in the dash click click click the - light goes on and off every time it clicks in the switches in the two-wheel drive. It's definitely going into four-wheel drive. So you're thinking it's either one of the solenoids on the firewall or the vacuum actuator down on the transfer case motor. I have good vacuum at the solenoids when the motor is running.. I have not tested the vacuum actuator down at the transfer case electric motor yet. And obviously it's winter my least favorite time to be crawling under a vehicle LOL

[@trevanherek6003]

check your evaporator canister for moisture.( mine was located behind my battery I have a 08 and mine had alot of water. i had same issue as you explained. I alsol had some bad hoses under core support...that's is where the water was sucked Into the system I think. also check your vaccume check valves.

[@alonzo3564]

How many Volts did you get on the connector that connects to the IWE Solenoid? While engine off and on? Because im havjng issues with mine but not sure it needs to be reprogrammed or faulty connector

[@StilesAutomotive]

John, You get "Battery Voltage" with voltage drop thru wires, switches and relays, ends up being 11 to 12 volts (normally) and you would like it to be on the high side of 11 volts, like 11.8 really. - Stiles

[@alonzo3564]

@StilesAutomotive yes sir I checked it and I do get 11 .8 volts it bounces a little with the key on engine off and with that my iwe is able to release my wheels freely but when the engine is turned on the voltage drops from 11 down to 5.9 and iwe does not release my wheel and its engaging into like if it's 4x4 so not sure it's an electrical issue but I did see from another video that it might be a reprogramming issues. Any advice you can share

[@cliffness420]

I would be a little bit concerned about that. Metal ratchet strip being so close to both negative and positive terminals

[@StilesAutomotive]

Cliff, Nope, I wasn't at all. It is not long enough to touch. In 4 years and 50,000 miles or more, it has not been a problem. But you are correct if it did, it would be a fire or explosion (Battery dependent) hazard. I show the Dual Battery design in detail in my Stiles Automotive Video - - Dual Battery Design & Install; Modification for Any Car or Truck, Shown on 2004 to 2008 F-150 Trucks. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmGYqGiqq5tnnZI I appreciate the comment! - Stiles

[@andrewscoma4468]

My question is how is the vacuum applied to the hubs is my 2004 v8 4x4 only has a sensor in the hub

[@StilesAutomotive]

Andrew, The Vacuum Solenoid that I talk about in the video, switches (or turns on and off) the vacuum to the IWE (which are like automatic hubs). First of all, if your Vacuum Solenoid doesn't have the Plastic Hood over it to protect it from water, then replace it. The Solenoids normally fail in one position or the other, either in open or closed, either in 4WD or not. That is normally. As I stated in the video, Vacuum to the IWE = Free Wheel or no 4WD and No Vacuum to the IWE = in 4WD. The "Sensor in the Hub" is the Wheel Speed Sensor which is used in the ABS (AntiLock Brakes) System. - Stiles

[@knosemoemilli7254]

Thanks got that same issue working on it now as I watch

[@StilesAutomotive]

Knosemoemilli, Yep, very comment issue caused by water. You are very welcome, glad to help! - Stiles

[@user-uo7hp1du3b]

Any advice? I have a 2004 f150 that has one hub locked in and it be hub that isn’t. I have put a new solenoid and that did not help

[@StilesAutomotive]

User, With the F-150 Running and in 2H, pull the Vacuum Hose off of the IWE and with your finger check for vacuum. Better, yet, stop buy Harbor Freight (or amazon) and buy a cheap Vacuum Pump/Gauge Set. Then you can measure vacuum, and use it for my next thing. With the Tire off of the ground, Use the Vacuum Pump to actuate the IWE. Your problem is likely the IWE. - Stiles

[@terryboylstein472]

Good vid. I replaced my check valve today and realized that it already has a revised assembly with the blue valve. I replaced it anyway but if the grinding still happens should I do the solenoid next? I have one already

[@StilesAutomotive]

Terry, I appreciate the feedback. First of all, if your Vacuum Solenoid doesn't have the Plastic Hood over it to protect it from water, then replace it. The Solenoids normally fail in one position or the other, either in open or closed, either in 4WD or not. That is normally. You have a grinding noise from your Integrated Wheel End (IWE)? When you engage 4WD? As I stated in the video, Vacuum to the IWE = Free Wheel or no 4WD and No Vacuum to the IWE = in 4WD. Your likely problem is the IWE, not the Solenoid. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles

[@terryboylstein472]

Thanks. Problem happens in 2wd. Yes the solenoid hood is not there. I'll try the solenoid next and let u know

[@tejanoiniowa]

​@@terryboylstein472 I'm having the same problem. When I'm in 2x4 i get some grinding then it sounds like the solenoid pulls vacuum again and the grinding stops for a bit, then does it all over again. This happens without any interaction from me. Makes me think i have a vacuum leak but not sure. When I'm in 4x4 high i have no issues.

[@terryboylstein472]

@@tejanoiniowa replace the solenoid

[@tejanoiniowa]

@@terryboylstein472 I did replace the solenoid but still have the same issue. Will try changing the check valve today.

[@johnbrown2238]

When I shift with truck bit running hear all normal noises and light all work with truck running it does not and 4x4 shifter doesn't light up

[@StilesAutomotive]

John, the Light on the Shift Button, (or indicator on Dash) indicates the Transfer Case Shifted and made it to the position. When your Truck and Transfer Case is old, you likely have to stop and shift from "Drive" to "Reverse" and back to "Drive", just like shifting to 4 Low. The IWEs don't have indication. - Stiles

[@richardellis6805]

This might be helpful to me maybe my problem appreciate it

[@StilesAutomotive]

Richard, ok, very good. At least this video describes in detail how the System works, which will help you troubleshoot your Truck! Thanks for the comment! - Stiles

[@valdeperez4849]

​@@StilesAutomotive I have a question. when i activate either the 4hi or 4low or any other the light on the board does not turn on. but if it works because you hear the sound that is activated. thank you

[@StilesAutomotive]

@@valdeperez4849 Valde, its better to ask a question directly to the video, not in the reply of other comments, I can see it in a comment area on You Tube. There are two different things happening the you are hearing the IWE and Vacuum Solenoid that doesn't have anything to do with the Dash Indicator Light and the 4WD Actuation Solenoid on the Transfer Case, this is what Switches the Dash Light and "proves" the transfer case is in 4WD Hi or 4WD Low. - Stiles

[@kevinkennedy1365]

I have had 98- o4 Randers, I have put 95-96 front fork lock front axle in them, ranger station ( HAD) info on this, in 2019 they sign a contract with ford to remove things like this, and push the 2019 rangers. I need the simple diagram, I put 95 explorer front fork lock front axle in a 98 2 door Explorer with a 2.5 4 cylinder, manual transfer case and transmission, non 4x4. I transferred the Cruz ball with 3 vaccume line. I need the 5 wire diagram on how to use a double throw toggle switch, I no brown wire is taped off. Black is ground. Does the purple and orange hotwire go to the center of the toggle switch, green and pink floating 4 x 4 side to disengage???

[@StilesAutomotive]

Kevin, I had a very detailed reply to Shawn Clark awhile ago, which may help you. I'll copy it below: - Stiles "Shawn, To answer your questions and then work the problem: 1) What should the voltage be at the Solenoid with 4WD Selector Switch in 2H (with Key “On”)? Ans: Battery Voltage or ~11.8 Volts on the Power Wire (Pink Wire / Lt BLU Stripe) from Fuse 11 (10A, Red) 4x4 Solenoid and the other Red Wire goes to Powertrain Control Module (switched ground) will show ground. 2) What should the voltage be at the Solenoid with 4WD Selector Switch in 4H and 4L? Ans: The same or ~11.8 Volts on the Power Wire and open or no ground on the other Red Wire to Control Module. 3) 4WD Selector Switch (or Electronic Shift On The Fly Switch) has 4 Pins (labeled 1 thru 4, left to right); a) Pins 1 & 4 Switch Illumination, b) Resistance between Pins 2 & 3 of 4WD Selector Switch (3.9 K Ohms, 1.1 K Ohms, 360 Ohms). The resistance tells the PCM the Switch Position and desired Mode (2H, 4H, or 4L). To remove the switch it has three plastic tabs on the back, (see the RockAuto website, FORD > 2005 > F-150 > 5.4L V8 > Electrical-Switch & Relay > 4WD Switch). If you know your 4x4 Relays are ok, you probably have checked your Fuses: Fuse 11 (10A, Red) A/C clutch, 4x4 solenoid in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel (in the Rightside (or Passenger’s Side) Kick Panel) is the Fuse for the Solenoid. Also Fuses 29 and 30 (Both 15A, Blue) PCM 4x4 Power in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel power the Transfer Case Actuator (and Transfer Case Shift Indication). Fuse 111 (30A, Pink) 4x4 Relays on the lower right of the same Fuse Panel. Like I said in the video you should be able to hear your solenoid (or at least feel it) click and hear your Transfer Case Motor. You should be able to hear (or at least feel) your 4x4 Relays on the inner fender well near the Vacuum Brake Booster. Let me know how it goes - Stiles Solenoid Wire Colors: Pink Wire / Lt BLU Stripe (Pwr From Fuse 11) RED to PCM (switched (-)) "

[@denb4626]

Will this work on 04 Ford Explorer

[@StilesAutomotive]

Denb, I believe the Explorer is different, it uses a Switch and Motor at the Transfer Case, but does not use the Vacuum Solenoid like I am holding in the Thumb of this video. - Stiles

[@tweeter8186]

I have vacuum at the hub all the time , if its in 2 wheel or for wheel drive . do you have any idea what to look for

[@StilesAutomotive]

Tweeter, Yep, its very very likely the Vacuum Solenoid. Make sure you get one with the Plastic Housing over it to keep the water out. - Stiles

[@johnbrown2238]

Not not but

[@StilesAutomotive]

John, I replied to your other comment! - Stiles

[@michaelphelan106]

dc

[@michaelphelan106]

Accidentally posted

[@StilesAutomotive]

Accidents do happen, but to reduce the risk, never drink and text! LOL - Stiles

[@dalezegarelli5553]

Wasted first 8 minutes; how to use the switch on the dash ....

[@StilesAutomotive]

Dale, I get it with all of the information on the Internet, its still hard to find something specific when you have a question. - Stiles

[@rickcross7888]

I like the ratchet strap holding the battery.. That metal ratchet handle right by the battery terminals 😅😮would never short out the battery and let All the smoke out if the strap broke

[@StilesAutomotive]

Rick, I talk about the Dual Battery Setup and the Strap in a video (see link below). The Black Strap is normally used for climbing and can support 4000 lbs. I use it doubled over. I talk about the issues with using a Strap in the video. The Ratchet Strap would have to be a little longer to short across the Battery Terminals. - Stiles Dual Battery Design & Install; Modification for Any Car or Truck, Shown on 2004 to 2008 F-150 Trucks kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIi7apudnKx8sJosi=RAld-lTtclS3ISMs