5 Drip Irrigation Mistakes to Avoid

[@mistymountaintraveladventures]

I put mine in 3/4 of my yard two years ago and I love it! I water only every 3rd day and it is plenty! It is easy to use, saves us a TON on our water bill during dry months, and plants love not getting their leaves wet like they did with a regular sprinkler. I have 1/4 of my yard left to do this year and can't wait to have it all done! Your products are of the highest quality and thanks for all the how-to videos, they are a blessing! Thanks for such an awesome line of products, service and business!

[@dripdepot]

Thank you so much for the great feedback! And I ended up doing all my yard too, then finding excuses to build new beds, drip irrigation can be a little bit habit forming =D

[@melissaanderson5757]

I put my system in last year and loved it. Your videos are great! Now I want to add to it. When you say 200' for 1/2" tubing, is that 200' for a single run, or 200' for the full system? Mine will come off the spigot (with all the appropriate fittings), and then branch into three directions. My longest run is 110', however all three combined are getting close to 200'. Am I good? Or do I need 3/4"? Or do I split into 2 zones?

[@dripdepot]

Glad you're enjoying your drip system! I got semi-addicted after my first one and kept finding excuses for more beds lol. If I'm understanding correctly, I believe you'll be good to go as far as length goes, as you do have the right of it, the 200' limit is for a single run. Make sure to account for the flow rate as well, 1/2" tubing is good for up to about 200 GPH, after that the friction loss curve can get pretty steep, particularly on long'ish runs. To calculate the flow rate of the system, just add up all the emitters you have operating on it -- for example, 300 0.5 GPH emitters (whether button drippers or in drip line) will have a system flow rate of 150 GPH. Include any you'd like to add to the system to get the proposed flow rate. If it goes over 200 GPH (or gets really close) it may be worth zoning the system -- fortunately for hose bib systems, zoning is pretty straight forward. You can use one of those faucet Y's to easily create a second zone, or a two-outlet timer if you're automating the system :) You're welcome to reply here with any follow-up questions!

[@harryl7946]

Builders landscaper installed the drips in the front bed and it is currently running off of the zone along with the front yard. 3 heads plus approximately 11 emitters on 11 plants. My plan is to add a zone for just the emitters and thus get the correct amount of water to the bed. Adding a zone will give me complete control over these emitters and keep my Radian Gardenia plants happy 😊 Wish me luck!

[@dripdepot]

Hey, good luck! And awesome giving those their own zone so you can water them as they prefer, trying to mix plants with wildly different watering requirements on the same zone is definitely a mistake we see (and have no doubt made!) :)

[@ryam8962]

Is there any advantage to placing dripper at top or side of mainline?

[@dripdepot]

Always have the emitters facing up whenever possible -- this helps reduce the possibility of the emitter pulling in debris after system shut-down. What happens is: At shut-down, water will typically drain (low point emitters, flush valve, etc) from the system -- as it does, it's replaced by air, and air can enter the system from higher point emitters. If they're facing down, there's the risk they'll pull in some dirt with the air. Air vents can also help prevent this, but having them face up as much as possible works pretty well too :)

[@ryam8962]

@@dripdepot thank you!

[@Johnnysokko168]

So drip tube already has holes at predetermined lengths? So you cant add or remove as you see necessary? What i mean is, can you decide the spacing for the emitters?

[@dripdepot]

There are actually two separate things, though sometimes they are referred to by the same names. Drip line comes with predetermined spacings -- there are multiple spacing options available, however, typically 6", 9" 12", 18" or 24" (depending on if 1/4" or 1/2" drip line is used). Poly Tubing is just blank tubing, often used as a water carrier to feed other emitters or drip lines. Emitters can be punched directly into poly tubing, however, and in that case the spacing can be whatever is desired. That's for 1/2" or larger tubing, for 1/4" tubing inline emitters can be used to provide any spacing desired. There's also a third item called Drip Tape that is very similar to drip line -- it also has predetermined spacings, but there are a lot more spacing options and emitter flow rates available, even up to 60" spacing. In 1/2" drip line, additional emitters can be punched in, just like you can with Poly Tubing (1/2" drip line is essentially 1/2" poly tubing with integrated emitters). 1/4" drip line and drip tape cannot have additional emitters added to them.

[@tobruz]

Can the recommended maximum length of 1/4 inline drip line be extended beyond the recommended length by attaching the 1/4 inline tube to the main line at both ends ?

[@dripdepot]

Good question without a completely clear answer, but I'm going to tentatively say yes due to my understanding of the physics of such a method from larger systems. The physics suggest that when you have it connected to the mainline on both ends like this, you've essentially split it into two smaller portions. Though in practice it's unlikely to be a perfectly even split (meaning I wouldn't exceed the maximum by too much), it should provide enough flow from both sides to essentially be two separate runs. This of course assumes other factors are accounted for, such as the mainline being within acceptable limitations in regards to length and flow, and sufficient pressure and flow from the source to begin with. Basically, if you're not overtaxing the source or suffering too much friction loss in the main, it should be able to feed ample pressure and flow into the 1/4" line from both locations where it connects. Very good question, normally I recommend to avoid loops or similar on smaller systems since there is typically not much benefit, but when exceeding a maximum recommended length there can be some benefit as described here. Thanks for the great question!

[@tobruz]

@@dripdepot thank you I guess I’ll have to try in the spring. I can always shorten the length of the 1/4” drip line if the middle emitters don’t work

[@dripdepot]

@@tobruz You bet -- do you know about how much total flow in emitters you'll have in that line? If the flow demand (the sum of all the emitters there) isn't too high, I think the odds of success go up pretty significantly as well -- between low flow and being connected to the main on both sides, I think you'll be looking pretty good :)

[@tobruz]

@@dripdepot I am super impressed with the quick response time and detail answers to my inquiries- BRAVO!

[@danielz4111]

@@tobruzI stumbled on this video because I’m in the same situation with my strawberry patch. I have 4x 25’ runs of drip tape all on a closed loop. Not working as expected. Plan to add 1/2” tubing to see if that corrects it

[@VincentDzinh]

why emitters don't work consistently? some drip like it should and some flow like 4-5 times more than its rating?

[@dripdepot]

To some degree this will depend on the type of emitter (pressure compensating, non-PC, adjustable, etc) but in most cases it's pressure related. Non pressure compensating emitters are pressure sensitive and will put out more than the stated rate at higher pressures. Often the fix is just adding an upstream pressure regulator to maintain a lower downstream pressure. Here is a link to a video where we've got some emitter putting our way more than they should when under higher pressure -- if the symptoms you're experiencing look similar to this it could be pressure related -- I set the video to start the the relevant portion: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6e3oXmFr5Z6irM&t=s146 If you're already using a regulator or it doesn't seem to be related to pressure, let me know, happy to help :)

[@baileylarsen9517]

I have a five foot wide section. I split it into 11.5 inch sections via 4 drip tubings. I’ve heard two ideas. Should I place emitters pointing up every 12 inches, or should I run emitters to each plant base directly? The first means you dig and move plants anywhere without having to move emitters, but it doesn’t seem to cover the area. Are the roots getting water? The second requires moving emitters every time which sounds tedious.

[@dripdepot]

Great question -- chances are high that the roots are getting water with an emitter every 12" if you have 11.5" sections. In common, loamy garden soil water spreads about 12" from the point of drip beneath the surface. The capillary action of the soil will carry it, and roots will seek out water as well. We've seen setups like this work very well. With that said, the general recommendation is to install the emitter near the base of the plant, but I can confirm it doesn't have to be right on top of it. With a 5' wide section and 4 runs of drip, the roots are highly likely to be receiving water unless the soil is sandy or particularly fast draining/loose :)

[@jimjamison8247]

I'm going overseas for 6 months. If I set up an irrigation system will I worry about leaking? How long does a battery last in the timer?

[@dripdepot]

There is definitely always a worry when gone! Timers failing and causing a big leak are incredibly rare, but they do happen. In your position I still likely would setup the system (the odds are heavily in your favor) but I would try to find someone who could check on things occasionally. You could also go with a WiFi timer, the Bhyve (www.dripdepot.com/bhyve-smart-hose-faucet-timer) can let you know when a zone is running and has a flow meter that you could monitor, that way if there is an issue you can at least be aware of it so someone could turn off the water. The batteries should be good to go for 6 months, most timer manufacturers recommend changing them every growing season (taking out at winter, putting back in at the start of spring). Be sure they're fresh -- the valves in hose timers are "normally closed" as well, so if for any reason the batteries died, the valve would return to its default position of closed.

[@cayto2857]

Thank you!

[@KKinTex-p9i]

Your channel is very helpful! I am trying to decide how to lay out 1/4 tubing (with drip holes every 6") in my garden beds. Is it better to have several 1/4 lines coming off of the 1/2" header tube, or could I simply connect one 1/4 line, and snake or curve it around the bed where it is needed?

[@dripdepot]

In most cases it is better to have multiple coming off, but having them snake or "S" shape through the bed is also perfectly acceptable -- that flexibility is one of the benefits to 1/4" drip line, so definitely make use of it :) The reason we usually don't have just one line snake all throughout the bed is due to friction loss -- one of the factors in friction loss is line length -- the longer the line gets, more pressure will be lost to friction. Flow rate is another variable in friction loss, and as a line of drip line gets longer, it will have more flow and thus more pressure loss. With 6" spaced 1/4" drip line, I like to keep my lines no longer than 15', but within that 15' I will snake and curve through locations being watered.

[@kkarma711]

@@dripdepot Makes perfect sense to me now. Thank you so much for your quick reply! Bless you!

[@dripdepot]

@@kkarma711 Any time at all, thank you as well for reaching out!

[@Spinacoli]

My raised beds are far from the faucet. So I have a 3/4" (or maybe it's 1") hose going from the faucet for about 30 feet before it splits into 3 separate runs, one for a in-ground bed, and 2 for 2 separate raised beds. What size of hose should I get? What other factors do I need to consider for my set up?

[@dripdepot]

How long are each of those separate runs going to be to get to the in ground bed and separate raised beds? The reason I ask is the main thing to consider where you're at in the process now is the size of line to use from each split -- the primary consideration in sizing a mainline is friction loss. Friction loss (pressure lost from friction) is a mechanism of the material of the line, diameter of the line, the length of the line and the flow going through it. Unless the distance is far (greater than 200') you'll likely be able to use 1/2" tubing here. 1/2" tubing is generally good for up to 200 GPH in flow and 200' length -- I can't imagine the raised beds or in ground beds getting anywhere near 200 GPH, so line length is going to be the primary determiner of what size line to use there. That's a bit of a long way of saying it's highly likely you'll be able to use 1/2" :) If any questions come up while you work out your system, don't hesitate to reach out!

[@911ThaSwitch]

What size dripline should we use if our mainline size is 3/4 inch? (Assuming 3/4" is what i'd use for 240 GPH rate).

[@dripdepot]

The size of drip line to use would be more dependent on how long your rows how -- if they're shorter than 30', 1/4" drip line can be used -- if they're longer than 30', you'll want to look at 1/2" drip line or 5/8" drip tape :)

[@911ThaSwitch]

Ok thank you! One more simple question, when choosing between a 10 PSI & 25 PSI Pressure Regulator, what am I looking for to make sure I choose the right one?@@dripdepot

[@dripdepot]

@@911ThaSwitch You bet! Which regulator PSI to use comes down to which emitter you use -- if you'll be using drip tape, 10 to 15 PSI is the best bet (with 15 PSI for 15 Mil thick tape) -- if you go with 1/4" drip line, button drippers or 1/2" Poly Drip line, 25 PSI will be the optimal operating pressure. Most drip irrigation operates best right around 25 PSI, with the big exception being drip tape at 10 to 15 PSI :) If you have a mixed system, regulate down to the lowest PSI emitter -- for example, if you had both 5/8" drip tape and 1/4" dripline, run at around 15 PSI for the drip tape, as most 25 PSI emitters will still work great at 15 PSI.

[@wstt4]

If I want to drip irrigate ground cover on the side of a hill, because it’s so incredibly windy, I read that for half inch brown 18 inch spacing, built-in emitter tubing, you can’t have a run of more than 200 feet. Is that because by the end of 200 feet so much pressure is lost in friction of the long tube? My water psi is 60, and flow rate is 600 G/HR. If I used .6g/hr emmiter tubing could I have it branch off after the valve into 12 T’s, each T, having 100’ tubing length? so I would have total 1200 feet of emitters , spaced 18 inches apart, and each no longer than 100’? (So no tube over 200’ run ). Total water flow with then be 1200 feet divided by 1.5 feet between meters times .6 gallons per hour = 480 gallons per hour (less than my 600 tested at spigot. Thanks for any help on this.

[@dripdepot]

Very good question here -- and you do have the right of it, the recommended maximum is largely due to friction loss (velocity also comes into play in wanting to keep water velocity at less than 5' per second). Your proposed solution, if I'm understanding correctly (let me know if I'm not!), sounds about like how we'd do it -- using a tee or similar to create more lines where each one is less than 200' rather than longer lines of 200' +. If it's not too inconvenient, your plan is definitely sound -- if it would be a pain to design/install it that way, how long over 200' would your runs be? The reason I ask is that the manufacturer of that drip line does allow for it to go over 200' in length with the 18" spaced drip line (by a good bit, even), so you may have some design flexibility here. And the 600 GPH at the spigot versus the 480 GPH in flow demand looks good -- always good to have a cushion between flow provided and flow demand as you have here. If you'll be running it all as one zone you'll likely need 3/4" mainline (possibly 1" depending on how long it is) to keep friction loss to a minimum, but the healthy flow will serve the system well :)

[@wstt4]

I think you understood my proposed layout. Basically I want to run 1” main line like 200-250’ to each valve. Then from the valve I’ill run a line down the hill with 12, 100’ drip lines branching off of it. So no brown 1/2”, built in emitter 18” apart, would have a run over 200’ (as each bracket or Tee, is only 100’). Water rate would be 1200 feet of tubing/1.5’ between emitters *.6 g/hr or 480 g/hr (and my spigot flow is 600 g/hr at 60psi static). You said above my flow demand looked good, but maybe I didn’t say enough. BUT, BUT when I spoke to rainbird, they said the drip lines can’t do more than 220 g/hr. Is that true? So I I have 12 Tee’s, each having a 100’ branch, so 12 100 foot runs, I can’t over 220 g/hr so my idea won’t work? Also how do I know what the velocity is? By putting so much tubing am I increasing the velocity? Thanks.

[@dripdepot]

​@@wstt4 I suspect what RainBird meant was the same general rule we have in our literature -- ours says not to put more than 200 GPH through 1/2" tubing or drip line, sounds like they went with 220 GPH -- this means you'll still be ok, as it is similar to the general rule regarding the 200' length (it's all about friction loss and velocity) and it only applies to a single length of tubing or drip line. This means your 100' lengths should only have 40 GPH going through them (100', 18" spacing, 0.6 GPH emitters, double check my math though), well below the 220 GPH recommended maximum flow rate. and 200' recommended maximum length. In regards to velocity, if you're under the recommended maximum flow rate (for a single run) you'll be under the 5 ft per second -- meaning each of your 100' lines will be well under 5 ft per second in regards to water velocity :) Great questions and great planning you're doing!

[@wstt4]

@@dripdepotthanks for the amazing help. Final questions here. If I run 1” main line 200-250’ to each valve and then run from the valve, a 50’ line down the hill where the 1/2 tubing branches off 100’ from this 50’ line’, 12 times, so twelve 100’ drip lines off it, I assume that line down the hill can’t be 1/2 poly line bc then too much flow is needed to feed the twelve 100’ drip lines, like 450+ gallons, which is too much for a 1/2” 50’ tubing down the hill. Would I just use 1” pvc tubing for the 50’ tubing down the hill and connect the 12 drip lines to that 1” PVC tube? I was running a 1” pvc tube is needed to keep the water flow up. Can PVC tube be above ground? Also, Where would I put a pressure limiter and how much should I reduce the pressure to? Thanks so much. You guys are excellent.

[@wstt4]

Or rain bird QF Dripline Header 1” tubing looks like what I need. Assuming it is reliable long term, which I can’t seem to find solid reviews of it. And I also cant find maximum flow rates and PSI for it.

[@tobythewhale]

I've been attempting a drip irrigation system for raised beds using 7 gallon buckets and yea, it kinda works (bed is about 3 foor high) and the highest point of the bucket is 6 feet) but I wanna increase pressure

[@dripdepot]

Yep, that's definitely some low pressure! Is there any way for you to elevate the buckets a little higher? Water pressure is generated at a rate of 0.433 PSI for every 1' of elevation, so a little more elevated can increase pressure to a reasonable degree. Sounds like you have about 1.3 PSI at the moment (bucket at 6', then 3' climb into the raised bed). Even 3' more would roughly double your working pressure :)

[@rochelleferrera595]

How do test flow rate ?

[@dripdepot]

To test your water source's flow rate, all you need is a timer and a bucket -- time how long it takes to fill the bucket with water and then put the numbers into the flow rate calculator here: www.dripdepot.com/irrigation-calculators If you'd like to see the entire process, we have a short video guide to testing the flow rate of a hose bib water source at this link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnjbe5Snhsqab5Y :)

[@robs5688]

Sound sucks.

[@dripdepot]

Hi, Rob! This is Alex, Drip Depot's video editor. I appreciate your feedback. May I ask what exactly about the sound is bad? The sound effects (pops & whooshes) or the microphone audio? Thanks!

[@robs5688]

@@dripdepot Microphone audio sounds muffled. Consonants at the beginning and end of sentences are often hard to understand. Hard consonants seem to almost produce a static distortion.

[@dripdepot]

Copy that. Thank you for taking the time to describe the audio issues you hear for me, Rob! We continue to actively produce new videos, so I will use your input to help improve our content. I hope, despite the issues with the audio, you were able to get the information you needed. If you need any additional assistance, give us a shout either on our KZbin videos or at dripdepot.com! We'll get you taken care of. -Alex

[@kit2130]

I couldn’t listen either but I wonder if that’s just the way he talks? You described it very well.

[@msjowitka]

bad sound