5 Sweater MISTAKES to avoid (I've made them ALL!!!)

[@DianaL647]

Thank you Claudia, I appreciate you sharing your expertise and explaining the "why". I would like to add to your swatch tip: soak/block your swatch to see any size/gauge changes. I lay my 5"x5" swatch on a piece of paper, draw an outline around it and measure my drawing. Then I soak/block and lay flat to dry (without pinning), and lay the swatch over the drawing to see the change. Sometimes the swatch gets longer (tells me I don't need to knit as long), sometimes it narrows (tells me I probably want to be on the generous side of ease), and sometimes no change. And I always use the gauge from my blocked swatch, that way rarely any surprises. Lastly I always measure for length by wearing it, and not by lying my knitwork flat. Our shapes change the length, because our fronts and backs are not flat.

[@cloknits]

Absolutely wash and block your swatch yes!!! I always make my swatch with half the stitch more than the recommended gauge (ex. if i'm supposed to get 20 sts per 4 inch I cast on 30) and I measure my gauge before AND after washing.

[@JodiYeager]

Thank you so much for the pro-tip!!! I am making my first sweater, and absolutely made a swatch, soaked and blocked it. However, I didn't know to mark it prior to soaking and check for movement. What a brilliant tip, thank you.

[@ccam504]

This is very helpful, wish I did this before the raglan sweater that is almost finished.

[@damdamfino]

I’m a J cup, with a 12 inch difference between my full bust and under bust - for people like me NEVER choose based on your full bust size. You need to learn how to knit a full bust adjustment. Designers enlarge everything when they enlarge the bust.

[@cloknits]

You are 100% right. I always tell people with a big bust to use their upper bust measurements instead of the full bust.

[@pathickman9928]

​@@cloknitsDo you have a tutorial on how to do this? I am also a full busted gal with narrow shoulders.

[@Winkey-crafts]

You are so right! I know pick a size based on my underarm circumstances and ad some stitches (if needed) after that point and sometimes a few stitches extra in the armpit when joining in the round, I prefer to decrease later on a few stitches because otherwise the sweater will be to big on me. Still need to learn bustdarts, I think that will be helpful for me. Do you do them?

[@Winkey-crafts]

@@pathickman9928 the book “little red in the city” is Part pattern collection, part resource book, in Little Red in the City Ysolda shares all her tips for successful sweaters that perfectly fit your body. This book is on my Christmas list. Maybe this is also something for you.

[@mmmeaks2245]

This! I usually go for the size down or pick the size that correlates with the average bust measurement of my clothes size.

[@AxeTheSingaporean]

Yokes can be too long or too short too! It's a little trickier than knitting less rows but figuring out the yoke length is so worth it.

[@cloknits]

Absolutely

[@saraw8503]

My first sweater was too small. So the next three were oversized. Tweaking and learning with every attempt. I now have an Anker’s summer tee and an Alpine Bloom that fit perfectly.

[@cloknits]

Exactly, you also sometimes have to make mistakes to learn. Good on you for not giving up!

[@dianathorpe2280]

I used to knit my sweaters too big and too long and yes they were very frumpy. When I measured my favorite store bought sweater I discovered that I like almost zero ease and I need to knit them shorter because I am shorter than average. Ta da now my hand knit sweaters fit so much better and yes blocking is essential. Your comments about yarn are so right on too. Take the time to choose the right yarn for the pattern.

[@cloknits]

Thanks for sharing!!

[@kristinm3729]

I really agree with your advice about reviewing yarns and project pages to determine whether the yarn chosen for a project (which is a diff fibre than the original) will work. This really is a matter of experience. I feel it took me a good 8 years of knitting constantly before I started to have regular success with this. And I was a sewist first - so fibre and fabric were not a new concept. The way I view it is that you need the time to try all of the yarns (like that's possible 🙂) and you need to make the mistakes in order to learn from them. Which is why, by my estimation, it's also super important to feel comfortable ripping things out once they're finished and it's apparent they don't work. They yarn can then be used to its best effect in something that will be worn.

[@cloknits]

You are absolutely right. In order to succeed at most things you have to make the mistakes and learn from them.

[@mysticmoth1111]

I came to understand this when I went to buy yarn for a sweater. The staff asked me for the pattern gauge along with yarn weight. It made me understand that yarn weights aren't all the same. Some yarns will have different guages despite being the same weight.

[@cloknits]

Actually what's really fun to know is that all yarns can be knit at a an immense range of gauges and depending on the fabric you are trying to achieve, you'll choose which gauge to use. Ex. Fingering weight yarn can be knit at 32sts per 4" for sturdy socks, at 24sts per 4" for a light sweater and at 20sts for a drapy shawl.

[@theyarngoeson]

Such good things to tell us all! I have to swatch because I’m a loose knitter so I tend to need to go down needle sizes. I agree with measuring a favorite top or sweater - it gives me a better idea of what length and ease I wear the most, because then I will feel most comfortable and confident when wearing that garment. And, not using the called for yarn - you need to do a swatch 😊 OH MY goodness - the try on has helped me so much, (yes indeed) the color(s) I picked looked awful together and/or super bad on me. Yes, yes, yes - blocking can make all the difference and it also can helped the feel of the yarn/fabric. My biggest tip is - when it seems something has gone super wrong, step away and come back hours later or the next day, DO NOT do something impulsively in an anxious/angry state; look at it again when you’re calm and simply be objective because it’s just knitting and just know that it can be tinked back / simply frogged to a point to adjust / entirely ripped out to re-knit OR if not meant to be the yarn can be passed along to someone else.

[@cloknits]

AMEN to that! Knitting can always be fixed or redone. That's one of the reason I'm never scared to try new techniques.

[@northwoodfalls1403]

As a new sweater knitter, I’m just soaking up as much wisdom from experienced knitters as I can so I appreciate this video 😊 I’ve knit a few sweaters now. I am the type that has to learn by doing and I struggle to follow written instructions if I can’t picture the result in my head so I have opted for a combination of written instructions and video tutorials of said pattern. I did a flat knit sweater in pieces first and that taught me a lot. Then I decided to try a top down, in the round, raglan sweater. It was a lot of fun and, again, I learned a lot. However, the pattern was meant to be a quick project and easy for beginners so it called for chunky yarn. I bought the exact yarn recommended. I ended up with a sweater that felt like a stiff, thick, shell. I was super proud of accomplishing a finished sweater with more complicated techniques but hated the way it looked on me. I left it sitting in my closet for a year and did a couple of other sweaters in a different style with different yarn. It kept nagging at me that I should just unravel the raglan sweater and make a different sweater with it. One that would better suit me and the yarn. It seemed like such a “waste” of all the initial work I had put into it. Finally, I just went for it and it was a great experience because it also taught me that I don’t have to be afraid to undo something if it isn’t working or if I’ve made a mistake. Better to do it and end up with something I love and will wear than something that just disappoints me. I made a sweater much more suited to both me and the yarn and I love it. I’ve been wearing it constantly ever since I finished it. That was definitely a case where the swatch didn’t tell me how the finished sweater would drape. It looked lovely as a swatch. But I don’t have enough experience with different yarns to know how a swatch will relate to a larger fabric. Anyhow, I am so appreciative of the knitting community that is so encouraging and happy to help out and pass on what they have learned to us newbies. I’ve definitely found a craft that brings me a lot of satisfaction and I know I will be knitting for as long as my hands and eyes can manage 😊

[@cloknits]

Thank you so much for sharing your experience. It's such a wonderful craft that allows us to make exactly what we want, as long as we are willing to make mistakes and learn from them. I'm glad you have found your happiness in the knitting community as I have!

[@gabrielaespinosaandrade2142]

Ohh you give me courage to unravel a FO. (Same as you, I'm not an expert) The pattern is absolutely beautiful but I thought the armpits would be too small and now they are too loose and I feel un confortable everytime I wear it. (So I'd maybe add that top down sweaters/ raglan sweaters have their tricks.... Should "learn by doing" them)

[@MrMonet111]

Great insights 😊 I like to wear my sweater for a couple of times before blocking to let the yarn relax 😊

[@nonifidler4547]

All excellent points Claudia, especially going to ravelry and seeing what yarns others have used and how it looks. Also, big plus from doing this is seeing if others made fit adjustments to make the sweater fit better. Thinking of a top down sweater that I made and love due to fit advice from others on ravelry. Sleeves were too narrow so added more rows to yoke and am so happy I checked there first before getting started.

[@cloknits]

That's a great tip!

[@ruthlee2752]

Very informative. And comments are right on. I have tummy problems but I dart the waist shaping not the overall size!

[@cloknits]

Yes, you have to know your body and make the small changes where you need it. Thanks for commenting.

[@ForestDreaming]

I'm guilty of the first, making them way too big! I'm going to take a leap of faith with the next one and do as you suggest.

[@cloknits]

Let me know how it goes. 🥰

[@liondancebird5246]

Thank you sooo much for the tips on fit and trying on frequently, Claudia! I've been working up to larger projects and am about to start my first top, and have already been scheming on possible adjustments. Swatching has proven it value to me. Just finished a historic hat pattern using old stash yarn, and had to go down 3 needle sizes before the fabric quality looked okay. Unexpectedly, the 4th swatch was exactly on gauge after blocking. Also thanks for suggestion to swatch in the round, since the top is knit bottom up in the round.

[@cloknits]

I'm glad you found value in my tips. Knitting is an experience and we learn with every project.

[@lydiasobocinski9651]

thanks so much! Tell me about the sweater you are wearing... Lovely!

[@wonderwhen6084]

Yes, please! Went through her Rav projects and didn't find it. Looks like a nice basic crew, but with a saddle shoulder?

[@sandramagar1565]

Please tell us the pattern and yarn you used in your lovely sweater

[@cloknits]

This pattern is not released yet, it's the Primaire Pullover from Camille Descôteaux which is an exclusive pattern for my french online course at this moment, but it will be available on Ravelry in the winter and I will let you all know about it when it is. It's my new favorite sweater for sure!

[@DebbieHQ]

@@cloknits Will the course be available in English, or French only?

[@mabelgoddard5813]

Thank you so much for pointing out vital steps to make a sweater!!❤❤❤

[@cloknits]

You are welcome!

[@cherylclough4309]

I sure have. I finished the Aperture sweater in the perfect yarn, but I knit it way too big. Yep! I was afraid it was going to be too small. I did try it on after splitting for sleeves, but I don’t think I let it sit with it on me long enough. Didn’t move in it enough…anyway, it was way too big. I’m wearing it anyway but want to make the pattern again only two sizes smaller!

[@lauriejarboe6087]

obviously you've been snooping through my handknit sweaters!!! My goal in 2024 is to concentrate on fit and how a garment will fit into my wardrobe and my life. Thank you

[@cloknits]

That's a great goal! I'm always wearing the same sweaters but that doesn't stop me from making all the new sweaters because I just love the process so much.

[@PatlLawson]

All great advice Claudia. I’m always amazed at how much of a difference blocking makes to a sweater’s fit and finish. I’m intrigued by how and why that works. What’s happening to the fibres? Hmmm ….. another rabbit hole, lol!

[@cloknits]

Animal fibers have memory. When wet, they move to take the shape you give them and dry in a position that they maintain until you wash it again.

[@sappyliljunkie]

That sweater fits you so well, what pattern is it? I have been looking for a saddle shoulder design

[@cloknits]

Thank you! It's called the Primaire Pullover and it's currently exclusive to a french online sweater course i'm teaching but it will be available on Ravelry in English as well in January.

[@bohorustica8545]

I knit my first saddle shoulder Top down top from the free Drops pattern called Fern Feast. It turned out lovely and the fit was perfect for me. I am going to make it again but make the sleeves longer. I did make the short sleeves to elbow length., otherwise I knit the pattern exactly as printed Check it out it might be what you are looking for. :))

[@Leigh1131]

Thank you! Your tips are great as always. I would also love if you have any tips on bottom-up and seamed sweaters!

[@cloknits]

Great idea!

[@sherylgambardella7799]

I learned the hard way that swatching is very important. Even if you KNOW you knit 6 stitches/inch with X thickness yarn- different fibers act differently and here in the desert even humidity differences matter. But I ALSO NOW KNOW that knitting a swatch over 30 minutes gives me different gauge than knitting a sweater over hours at a time in one sitting. The quest for perfection continues!.....

[@ladydlc550]

I totally agree about not creating a super-sized sweater. Over sized garments do not look good on anyone, and the cost of time and yarn for making too large is a waste. A well knit sweater should fit the body with the amount of ease that makes the garment comfortable, not sloppy.

[@cloknits]

Exactly!

[@noelleparris9451]

So true. I will swatch these days but it's more to see if I like the fabric. I have learned from much trial and error (and resulting frogging) that my tendency to choose a larger size (for my larger bust) is a mistake as it's just the bust that needs to have more stitches/width/fabric and nowhere else. As a process knitter tho it doesn't bother me much if I have to rip back or start over as it's all knitting 😊

[@nobleelf]

I get that. 34 inch chest, J cups. I always look at finished projects on Ravelry, to see if any have similar body, and how the finished piece looks on them. It's saved me a lot of purchased patterns I'd end up hating. I also look at how the sweater or top looks where the armpit and body meet. I detest those big lumpy bits sticking out, that are usually 'hidden' by the designer, when showing photos with their arms held up or back.

[@bmtndog318]

Thanks for the tips! I love your sweater and how well it fits you!

[@cloknits]

You are welcome! And yes it's one of my favorite sweater at the moment.

[@MandalaBunnyhome]

I'm a beginner and your videos are so helpful!! Thank you for posting!

[@cloknits]

You are so welcome!

[@patdent]

My advice is this. 1. Measure your favourite garment that fits your body comfortably (I mean fitting reasonably closely). This will give you information about your waist, bust, hips, body length, sleeve length, upper arm size. This will enable you to decide your own target measurements for your completed garment and compare your body shape to the body shape of the pattern. 2. Choose a pattern that has a diagram of the shape of the garment, giving you measurements of different parts of the garment. Compare this with your own measurements so you know how it varies from your own body shape, and you will know where it is looser, tighter, longer, shorter, so you understand what the finished fit will be like. 3. Don't believe people who tell you to start from the top so you can try it on as you go. That is an insane way to knit. It means you will be making your mistakes in the part of the garment that is most visible. Find a bottom up pattern and start by making a sleeve. This will enable you to make mistakes in a less visible part of the garment and you can check your gauge and make decisions about colour and texture. If you decide to unravel and rethink, you haven't wasted too much time because the bottom of the sleeve is the smallest part of the garment. 4. Remember, for length you can measure as you go and have body and sleeves as long or as short as you want, but width is governed by how many stitches you cast on, so careful decisions need to be made before you start.

[@lindaapplegate4559]

Can you provide more about a gauge swatch? What elements should one do if it’s a cable or a color work seater. Should a portion of the ribbing be included? Thanks, Claudia.

[@cloknits]

Generally the gauge swatch is made in the pattern of the main portion of the sweater only. The ribbing will then make sense if the swatch for the pattern is right. I can do a future video on how to make a good swatch.

[@beverlythompson3246]

Neck size is my nemesis! I try on top down sweaters along the way and all seems fine but then when I go to wear the garment the round neck feels much bigger. I have gone back and added more ribbing on some- which is better than ripping everything out. I started my current project using provisional cast on and will be the neck line ribbing once I have blocked the sweater.

[@cloknits]

My best advice on this is to make a regular cast on (not super stretchy) below the ribbing and then pick up for the ribbing. That way you have a more stable edge below the ribbing that won't stretch as much under the weight of the sweater. Provisional cast on is great because your will be able to adjust the length of the ribbing easily, but it won't prevent the stretching.

[@beverlythompson3246]

@@cloknits that makes sense- I will try it and thanks for your advice!

[@patdent]

I had the same problem when I tried top down knitting. TBH, I think top down is probably okay if you're skinny, but I'm knitting XL and top down doesn't work for me. Knitting a long sleeve onto an already bulky garment is really punishing and you can't really assess how a yoke/ neckline will look like until it's bearing the weight of the rest of the body, so I see no point in trying it on first.

[@judygrayson7896]

My first sweater was the flax sweater by tin can knits. I am a 44. 1/2 bust but was not sure the ease but had watch Andrea Moury and she likes 6 inches in her sweaters well she is a petite woman. I pick the 6 inches of positive ease and it was way too big. Blocked it and hated it. I feel like it was a lesson so not mad. Made a cotton tee shirt turned out great. Now going to try a vest, but have not made another sweater. Only been knitting 6 yrs or so mostly non fitted items other than hats. Very intimidating by sweaters because I don’t have anyone close to help me. I have followed KZbinrs that have taped a step by step tutorial on a free sweater like the flax or buy their pattern and they will do a step by step tutorial. Gives them a chance to sell their patterns and helps people like me. I learned to knit socks 🧦 also from here. Self taught. Hope someday if I learn enough from educated and helpful people like you I will be able to knit a sweater from a pattern without watching a tutorial from start to finish. If I can now do it with socks I should be able to do it with sweaters. Thanks, Judy

[@cloknits]

Hi Judy, thank you for commenting! Yes the amount of ease is always a personal preference. Measuring your favorite sweater is, in my opinion, the best way to make sure you'll like the ease of your next sweater.

[@leighdonevan8402]

I love the sweater you're wearing in this video. Please tell me it's hand knit and what the pattern is

[@cloknits]

It is hand knit!!! This pattern is not released yet, it's the Primaire Pullover from Camille Descôteaux which is an exclusive pattern for my french online course at this moment, but it will be available on Ravelry in the winter and I will let you all know about it when it is. It's my new favorite sweater for sure!

[@jillianmakes]

I really like the sweater you're wearing. Do you have a link to where I could get the pattern?

[@cloknits]

It should be released soon, it's called Primaire Pullover by Camille Descôteaux.

[@sharonjensen2919]

Ive learnt so much from you...i am just going to block my first sweater...a tad bit nervous...

[@cloknits]

You can do it! I just posted a podcast about how I block and i also have a tiktok video that is very helpful if you are on that platform as well.

[@flyingcloud9253]

Thank you for this video, such an important topic! Also....I love the sweater you are wearing, where can I find the patern.

[@cloknits]

Thank you for the comment. The sweater I'm wearing is the Primaire Pullover by Camille Descôteaux

[@anqixue6032]

Thank you for the video. I found the gauge swatch not that useful though because my gauge when I knit the actual sweater is always very different from that of my swatch.... I have no clue if it's the case of some other knitters but they the swatches barely help me...

[@anqixue6032]

For example, I am working on a cardigan (therefore worked flat anyways) and I did a gauge swatch with 5mm needles in the pattern intended. After blocking the gauge of the swatch measured 18 sts every 10 cm. However, now that I am working on the actual piece, I noticed that I am doing 17 sts every 10 cm, which is before blocking and I know the fabric will stretch with blocking....

[@cloknits]

A few questions before I can answer: how many stitches did you cast on on your swatch, and how many rows did knit? Did you use the exact same needle you are using for your sweater? It could be a few different things but yes some people have a tendency to relax once they settled into a project and it can affect the gauge. If you know it happens to you all the time, the swatch is still helpful since you know you'll need to cast on with smaller needles then the ones used for the swatch.

[@anqixue6032]

@@cloknits thank you for your response! I casted on my swatch using the same needles as the WIP and made approx 30 sts *25 rows (not sure about how many rows but around that number). I feel that my WIP just drapes and my stitches get larger due to the weight of the fabric? that is just a guess, probably wrong but it always happens. I have been struggling to see if other knitters have the same issue >.

[@cloknits]

I could be a yarn choice issue... what yarn are you using?

[@MaryODONOGHUE-u7u]

Are you not assuming that we only knit top down sweaters? Some of us like knitted flat, in pieces and bottom up.

[@cloknits]

The "try on as you go" advice is definitely more for in the round sweaters, you are right. For flat, in pieces sweaters, all the other advices (swatching, measuring a sweater you like, choosing the yarn carefully) are even more important because you can't try it on.

[@sandraobrien8705]

I don't like top down knits, they never work out. I've resorted to buying vintage ones to avoid this problem. It is a shame as I do like some modern patterns but I won't be knitting top down ever again.

[@ang.andzelika]

love the video! although it's a shame that it's not divided into chapters - it would be so much easier to come back to it in the future and quickly find what i'd be looking for:) i'm currently working on my first sweater, did my gauge swatch, blocked it, measured it. now i'm knitting the front panel, and it seems too small, but i have to remind myself that i'm going to block it later ahahaha

[@cloknits]

You are right, I'll go add chapters! And yes, trust the process if the swatch was right!

[@JodiYeager]

I wonder how hard it is to add chapters to videos? Oh, and I agree I love them. :) Just curious about the mechanics of the chapter thing.

[@cloknits]

It's not hard, I just forget to do it! haha

[@jilliankonig2759]

It seems to be the style to have 8-10" of positive ease for a sweater. at 5'1" and 100 pounds, choosing what size to knit is challenging! I have had to frog several sweaters because they looked ridiculous on me. I guess it's a '70s thing to have sweaters that actually fit.

[@cloknits]

Yes patterns do follow trends and oversized has been a big one. For raglan or round yoke, it's totally fine to just knit a size down to get less ease.

[@eyecab]

I have made most all these mistakes, so very helpful to talk through. With blocking, how do we plan for yarn size changes? Some yarns stretch and is it hard to predict?

[@cloknits]

That's when taking measures of your swatch pre and post blocking can help

[@carolaxis]

All your tips are perfect !!! One question, how do you manage to try your sweater while you are knitting, do I have to pass all the stiches onto an auxiliary yarn ? Maybe you have a better idea. Thank you.

[@cloknits]

I generally use a second long needle and slide half the stitches onto that one. Then I can just knit straight from that needles when I start knitting again. You can also put the stitches on waste yarn or silicone tubing.

[@ccam504]

Working on a raglan , sleeves look wide. I keep trying it on but thinking after finishing the first sleeve l’m going to block the sleeve before ripping back . This is only my 2nd knitted sweater. Designer sizes started too small and jumped to 40 & 45 . Had to go with 40….ugh thank you for this video

[@cloknits]

Sometimes there's just no other choice than to rip back. You can put more decreases along the sleeve to get the look you prefer.

[@helennorris1888]

I definetly make my sweaters way too big. The dunb thing is, I do it again and again!!

[@lydeke1]

I was sooo very disappointed when my Norwegian sweater with beautiful yoke was way too big. I used the same yarn as in the pattern, my gauge swatch was spot on (as I think is the right saying). And I choose the size just a little smaller than my actual size. Great was the disappointment when the circumference of the sweater was over 24 cm = 9,45 inches too wide (and even then I had positive ease...) I also knitted on the right size needles, so I don't know what I could've done better. I now want to try to knit the sweater top down (so I can try it on several times while knitting), but the pattern originally is knitted bottum up (?). How do I do this best? Any tips? Greatings from The Netherlands

[@melhebs1]

So helpful, Claudia. Thanks!

[@cloknits]

You're welcome.

[@annaasund1201]

My first ever sweater (after a successful cardigan) was ribbed with some cables. I put the sleeves on the wrong side, all the cables on the body ended up inside 😂 gave it to my mum like that (too lazy to redo the sewing) and she still has it, 10 years later 😂

[@cloknits]

Omg that's quite funny.

[@lindas5964]

I believe sweaters end up too long because knitters don’t do intermediary blocks when checking length. So many times I have not done this step, tried it on and said “yeah looks good” and then finished knitting, blocked the sweater and BAM! Everything (sleeves and body) are now 6” longer than what I thought it would be. It’s a pain but I now block after the body and also 1 sleeve so I know exactly how many rows to knit the other sleeve. It actually saves me time from having to rip out a bound off edge and re knitting. Which I’ve done many times! Ugh.

[@cloknits]

It's a good way to know for sure. It does take more time but it's worth it if you don't know how your fabric will behave. I generally knit with fibers that don't stretch much so I know from experience what will happen to my garment. Also the swatch can tell you so much about how you sweater will block out.

[@flagerdevil]

okay now I'm scared! What kind of yarn stretches like that? 😳

[@evamp2605]

To choose a bad patron, one whithout short rows for example.

[@elnamartensson3414]

I’ve made them all too! 😂. My question is about the “frequently try it on”- part: I’m about to start up a sweater project for a family member who lives 12 hours away. So the frequent trying on is not really an option. I’ve asked him for several measurements, both on his body and on sweaters he likes. Is there anything else I can do to make sure it will fit?

[@cloknits]

I would just make sure to knit a big enough swatch that it matches my real tension in the garment and keep measuring the sweater every so often to see if it still matches the measurements.

[@elnamartensson3414]

@@cloknitsThanks! I will prepare well and check frequently.

[@marywicks9334]

Ah! Gauge nightmares! Just gaily knitting on a top down all in one fitted sleeve construction cardigan. Done the try on as you go thing and it’s looking gorgeous - fabulous fit. Stopped knitting a couple of inches down from the underarms and picked up sleeve stitches to get an idea of how much yearn I was using and whether I had enough. Did half a sleeve and then I decided to give the whole thing a gentle wash. 😢 it’s grown and now the armhole hangs lower than I’d like. Belatedly swatching (I know, I know) and can’t get row gauge. Pattern gives row by row instructions for the creation of the armhole rather than a measurement, so if I’m knitting more rows per inch than suggested gauge I’m not going to be able to make this work, am I? Any help gratefully received!

[@cloknits]

The yoke is absolutely the most challenging part when knitting a sweater. First off, you could try blocking your sweater again and pat it gently into shape to see if you can scrunch it back to the shape you likes. Also if you are knitting more rows per inch, the yoke should be shorter than normal instead of longer 🤔. But depending what kind of yoke you are doing, you can absolutely lengthen or shorten a yoke.

[@marywicks9334]

Thanks for your reply. I haven’t given up - just taken some time out so we can both (me and the cardigan) think about things. Fingers crossed we find a solution!

[@cloknits]

A time out is always a good idea.

[@safiyab4767]

Thank you for the tips! May I ask what sweater you are wearing in the video?

[@cloknits]

My pleasure! The sweater is the Primaire Pullover by Camille Descôteaux that will be released in January, stay tuned!

[@TheKnittingLineman]

Started with the video about stranded color work and I’m really enjoying your opinions, tips, and personal experiences!! My addition to this is: If you’re doing a swatch to help you decide what colors you want to use in a piece, go big!! Currently making the Kaarnaneule pullover for my nephew and tried different color combos and a teeny weeny swatch. It made me doubt the original color combo he liked, but I finally decided to knit the originals in a much bigger swatch and stuck with them for the sweater. Soooooo happy I did!! They might be more subtle, but it’ll be perfect for him!!!! Over the moon with this project! Hope that helps someone somewhere ☺️ Back to the vids! Best wishes from the Pacific Northwest!

[@cloknits]

Yes! A bigger swatch always gives a better idea of the results. Thank you for commenting!

[@ameretbudihas6770]

I’ve never swatched. I’ve had to frog a number of things to make them fit. Guess I should start swatching.😅

[@cloknits]

That could potentially save you a lot of time.

[@amethystanne4586]

I knitted one sweater using acrylic yarn. It was a stupid thing to not make a swatch to see how my gauge compared to the pattern gauge. Very stupid thing. If I were 6inches shorter in overall height, with 6” longer arms, and was 25-30 pounds heavier…. the sweater would have fit pretty good. And I knitted it during the usual hot and humid summer in New Jersey. I was 20 years old with the thought, “Of course it will fit! I don’t need to do no stinkin’ gauge swatch.” I loved wearing sweaters. So warm and cozy! But……. I’m 70 now, am on the other side of menopause, and live in Kentucky, “I don’t need to wear sweaters any more.” The last time we had single digit winter weather was…. I don’t remember when, it’s been that long ago. Maybe before Covid?

[@cloknits]

Yeah, the sweater gauge is mandatory. As for heat, there are great patterns for summer knits and summer fibers you could try if you'd like.

[@amethystanne4586]

@@cloknits thank you! I think knitting that sweater back then satisfied my curiosity. I have using that experience as a cautionary tale when Curiosity raised it’s inquisitive head. It’s current topic is, “Hmmm, how about knitted mittens?” My Mom knitted mittens for Dad, her 3 kids all their life, her grandchildren, and great-grandchildren. She the directions in a particular 10cent pattern book. She bought it brand new in the early 1950’s. I found another copy of that book on eBay this year. Did you know that Red Heart worsted weight yarn used to have a red metal aluminum heart clamped to the beginning end of the skein?

[@Dovegamez857]

I'm dealing with the color issue now with socks. I thought Hunter Green and brown would look great, but then when I got halfway through I just didn't like the color combo. Too dark for me.

[@cloknits]

I’ve been there! Sometimes you just have to scrap a project.

[@sandracroley9784]

I need to learn to get the proper yoke measurements....a couple of times I've knitted the yoke too deep

[@leighdonevan8402]

I have no idea how deep they really ought to be. Like if we're talking bout fit I'm not sure how things should fit and can't think of my body objectively enough to be able to tell

[@cloknits]

Maybe that's great subject for a another video. Different patterns have different looks for shallower or deeper yokes. I personally like to have a little bit of space in the underarms but not too much. I usually separate when I have about 1.5 inches past my armpits.

[@DebbieHQ]

@@cloknits YES! And perhaps WHERE to split for the sleeves as you're trying it on also. I've looked for this info, and it's not easy to find. I had to guess during my try on - and sure enough, it split too low for the sleeves per the pattern. Perhaps another idea for tutorial?

[@fatimatorina5413]

You are amazing in your explanation thanks from Brasil

[@cloknits]

Thank you so much for the compliment!

[@noamleora]

Thank you for the information 🙏 what happens when i get stitch gauge, but cant get row gauge? When i go down a needle size and get row gauge, my stitches are all wrong? It scares me!

[@cloknits]

If it's a big difference, it might just not be the right yarn for this pattern. But depending on the pattern, you might be able to knit the yoke longer or shorter without affecting the motif. If really depends on which pattern you are choosing.

[@kristin.and.the.butterfly]

What is the sweater you’re wearing, Claudia? I really like the shoulder construction! The funny thing with the sweaters that I’ve made, is that the one that I like the fit of the least is the one I knit in the yarn recommended by the pattern designer. I think the fit issues have more to do with the proportions of the sleeve circumference and yoke depth not being quite right for my body. To be fair, it was the second sweater I ever made.

[@cloknits]

Hi Kristin! The sweater is called Primaire Pullover by Camille Descôteaux. It is an exclusive pattern for my french sweater knitting course at this moment but it will be available in January in English on Ravelry. As for the fit, yes, it generally depends more on the construction and we end up knowing what we like by looking at pictures but the yarn choice sometimes can change the fit a lot more than we think.

[@bubnbrat100]

I love the yarn. Can you please tell me what it is?@@cloknits

[@cloknits]

@@bubnbrat100 Yes! It's Jolly Dk from Espace Tricot. It's my current favorite ever!

[@Ocean.DreaMz]

What about crocheting sweaters?

[@susanstievenart5583]

Check before you knit a whole garment in expensive wool that you can tolerate wool on your skin. I can tolerate wool on my feet but nowhere else. I was very sad that I couldn’t wear the sweater. I tried so hard to get used to it but eventually had to donate it to charity. 😢

[@cloknits]

Great point! When you are unsure of a fabric, knit a swatch and wear it under your bra strap for a few hours to see if it bothers you or not.

[@mysticmoth1111]

@@cloknitsThat's super clever!

[@moniquem8093]

hello from San Diego, recently found your channel, I wanted to know what sweater pattern you are waring, looks so pretty,

[@cloknits]

Hi Monique, thanks for watching. I'm wearing the Primaire Pullover, available here: www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/primaire-pullover

[@moniquem8093]

@@cloknits thank you 😊

[@MGMHoH]

What is the sweater pattern you’re wearing? It’s lovely.

[@cloknits]

Thank you, it's the Primaire Pullover by Camille Descôteaux. It will be released in January

[@tyrsia]

Knit my first sweater and I hate it. 😢 Its a drop shoulder pattern and I thought I was following the size instructions but it just hangs on me like a black wool potato sack, the neck edge is too wide, and sleeves are too long. Is there a way to rescue it by shrinking it up a bit?

[@cloknits]

Before you fix it, did you measure your sweater to see if it actually fits the pattern measurements or if you had tension differences? It won't fix it but at least you'll know why it doesn't fit. Is it the shape of the actual sweater on you, the gauge, the drape, etc? Then depending on your fiber yes you could try to make it a little smaller. What yarn did you use?

[@tyrsia]

Basically I made every mistake in this video 😂 Measured without negative ease and rounded up, didn’t do a gauge swatch and so didn’t realize my tension was looser than the pattern called for. If only I had this video before starting, it may have helped. I used Knit Picks Cadena which is a bulky 70% wool & 30% superfine alpaca.

[@jody1622]

You didn’t mention the architecture of the sweater. I knitted a drop sleeve sweater and , on me, the look was awful! 😱

[@cloknits]

Right, the construction matters. Even when we like the look on others, it doesn't mean it's right for us.

[@hb7282]

I’ve only knit cardigans for babies. The cardigan pattern was top down with raglan sleeves, and very easy to knit. I made a huge mistake by agreeing to knit a pullover for a niece who lives several states away. This makes trying on as I go rather difficult. She is an adult, so at least she won’t be growing. Does anybody have any helpful advice? I’m nervous to start the sweater. I have knit a swatch in the round, and blocked it, so I have gauge.

[@cloknits]

You can ask her to send you measurements: the width of her favorite sweater, length of the arm from the underarm and the length she wants from the back of the neck to the hem. Ideally you chose a pattern that has positive ease so there's a bit of leeway.

[@hb7282]

@@cloknits thank you! The pattern is North Shore by Tin Can Knits

[@jody1622]

Thank you!

[@cloknits]

You're welcome.

[@anitahigman2918]

Can you block acrylic though? Or are you just talking about wool

[@cloknits]

You can block acrylic, it just won't make as big of a difference. Steam blocking is a great way to block acrylic.

[@mynarcolepticlife9187]

*See title* "I bet she's going to tell me to gauge my yarn" *Clicks video* Damn it LOL I tried making one without making a swatch first and it looked great....until I washed it. :( I never washed my gauge and didn't know the yarn would stretch and look huge until I was totally done with my sweater

[@cloknits]

Haha! I love that you knew. Yes swatches should always be treated as you are going to treat your garment. It's like a little preview of what your fabric will be. Sometimes we have to learn the hard way.

[@marimacovei387]

After you have used many types of yarn, in many sizes, you know what to do. In my experience, swatches are not accurate, it is a waste of time. A garment you make, for you or especially by order - the size and shape it is dictated by the customer. This art of knitting or crocheting, it is not about "it should be this long... etc", it is what you want, how you want. If you're into should be this way, get an item made as mass production.....😊

[@cloknits]

If you are able to adjust your garment as you go and don't follow a pattern, your gauge doesn't matter. But for most people, a gauge swatch is absolutely necessary to know that they are gonna get the result the designer has intended. Sometimes gauge swatches lie but if they are done the right way, it's less likely and it will also give more information than just gauge.

[@Milena-ix5mq]

What does "block your sweater" even mean?

[@cloknits]

It's the process of wash and then shaping it to the correct measurements in order for the garment to look finished.

[@Milena-ix5mq]

@cloknits Thank you!

[@chavak3497]

But my gauge swatches NEVER match no matter what...

[@cloknits]

It never matches the pattern or it never matches on the sweater vs the swatch?

[@АнгелинаВойцешевская]

🙏💞🎆 👍🔔💐

[@nl2766]

Generally designer only give guidance for bust measurement, but not for hips. Help!

[@cloknits]

Some designers have options for wider hips but you are right that most sweaters that are in fashion right now are either cropped so don't get to the hips, or have no shaping at all and are basically a big rectangle. You can always add stitches to the circumference to fit your shape if you have wider hips and I've found a few interesting youtube videos on that subject. Mainly you need to figure out how many sts more you need around your widest area and calculate how many increase round you'll need and how far appart they have to be starting about 4" below the underarm. There's a little more to it but it's a manageable alteration on most patterns.