5 Tools Every Speaker Builder Needs

[@jimgardiner1558]

Good info! Haven't built speakers for about 10 Years now but retired last year and just getting back into it. Amazingly my old software (TrueRTA) still works without upgrading. I used my calibrated mic and did a speaker test that seemed to work. The last speakers I designed and built were transmission lines using Focal 5 1/4" woofer and 1" inverted dome tweeters. I didn't use a software program to design the cross-over circuit ( just used formulae in an Excel spreadsheet that I made myself). I did try to incorporate various options into the sheet (1st & 2nd order crossover calculations, notch filter for tweeter resonance, tweeter attenuation, woofer impedance compensation, etc.). I also included transmission line design tables with automated lookup. I considered using online Mathcad design software for the transmission line design but decided the empirical design curves were probably the best way to go. Bottom line, after a lot of effort, lots of tweaking, the speakers turned out great (from my perspective anyway) and I am still enjoying them today. Oh ya as you mentioned, it is a good idea to always test speakers (don't just trust manufacture's specs). Turned out Focals specs were pretty close but I have had other manufacturer's specs that were way off (particularly when I bought from a surplus supplier).

[@jimgardiner1558]

@@keithmarlowe5569 I haven't worked with home theater but my 1st thought is that the home theater receivers are designed to use what is called 5.1 channel sound. I think that means 2 front/stereo full range speakers, 2 rear full range speakers, 1 center channel (mid range?) and the .1 I believe means sub woofer. So the different channels contain different information ( I think mostly to do with phase relationship to provide the surround sound effect) but are all still full frequency range (with the possible exception of the center channel and sub woofer which are likely notch and low pass filtered respectively). I believe it is common for people to use conventional stereo speakers for their front speakers. Hopefully this helps and I haven't fed you any incorrect information.

[@jishusingh8361]

Tool No. 1 = 00:41 ; Calibrated Mic. Tool No. 2 = 02:17 ; REW. Tool No. 3 = 03:11 ; DATS V2. Tool No. 4 = 05:13 ; Good Soldering Iron (...and soldering flux (Good)). Tool No. 5 = 07:10 ; Free Programs (WinISD, Xsim & PCD). Tool No. 6 (Bonus) = 08:21 ; Circle Jig.

[@russellborrego1689]

This is great. Weeds out a ton of the random info out there. Thank you!

[@Toid]

Russell Borrego you're welcome

[@leeknivek]

I agree, weed is a very useful speaker building tool

[@arcyoon]

This is a really essential 'TEXT' video. Thanks a lot.!!

[@ArcadeDude44]

Great tips! I am finally going to get to work, re-installing my system in my (former) IASCA Champion (2009 IASCA Western Regionals, 1st place, Expert/Manufacturer's Class) 1996 Mustang SVT Cobra Mystic. Also, I now live VERY close to Memphis, where I work. Lemme' know if you'd want to get together, I use old-school (Orion/PPI) amps in all of my builds. I'm going to be using some Dayton drivers in this upgrade, as well. This is an SQ build (kick-panel mids/tweets, most likely an IB sub setup, etc.).

[@mm-tg8oo]

I wish that I could get my hamds on Precision Power amps from the 90s.

[@anitasharma6230]

love from india brother great work

[@stephenyoud6125]

Awesome dude, all i needed to know to get started

[@tomkocur]

You can save a lot of money on DATS if you know how to solder and have a soundcard with line-in (onboard works just fine). You can build a measurement device for less than 5 bucks - you only need two jack connectors, 100ohm resistor, some wire and optionally also a switch. Works just as fine as DATS and it will be supported without any problems by REW and LIMP (Arta). Calibrated microphone is also not that necessary - if you're designing a simple 2-way crossover, pretty much any condenser capsule would do - it would get the basic things done - matching phase and sensitivity. You just wouldn't be able to rely on it in case you want to use it for corrections or room EQ.

[@theavlab]

Totally agree

[@quanghuytieu9946]

im very interesting in this one. Could you give me more infomation about how to do this homemade DATS ? thanks alot !

[@MrFrobbo]

This is really useful thanks, especially for someone returning to it from 20 years absence. In my day it was LEAP, so finding something like DATS v2 wow, perfect. And didnt even realise you could get a circle jig, I was a jigsaw man...sou ds like I need to invest in a few new toys! Cheers

[@joecox9958]

that's all in one! Superior! many thanks!

[@jimthvac100]

Great information, Thank you. I have learned a lot from your channel. One of the things I look forward to is building custom crossovers for speakers that may only have a simple capacitor and make them sound great.

[@Toid]

Thank you. I really appreciate hearing that. It's pretty cool when you can find the right drivers to be able to do that. I was able to do that with the Dinas. It's a great feeling when the whole crossover costs a dollar 😁

[@jimthvac100]

@@Toid One cant get around buying Resistors and quality capacitors but I would like to learn to build and wind my own air core inductors. I know some of those they sell online use way to thin of wire than what they should and can be a little costly.

[@gprojectnoob4779]

Ive been building speakers since the 70s and dont have anything you recommended except soldering iron. My first 5 would be 1 a jigsaw , 2 a skill saw or table saw, 3 a mulltimeter, 4 soldering iron, 5 a drill with philips bit and drills.

[@PrinceWesterburg]

If you're on a real budget, you can use a condenser mic and invert the response EQ however it won't let you record directly into speaker software but I've got by with Audacity and Audition doing frequency analysis.

[@terencefung9408]

Thank you for the info - very helpful. subscribed your channel.

[@kwacker132]

Just subscribed. Bought the soldering iron, the Umik-1, the DATS V3 and downloaded all your recommended software. Thank you for the invaluable information.

[@Toid]

You're welcome. I hope this helps immensely. If you need any help feel free to reach out on the forum. www.toidsdiyaudio.com/community I'd be happy to help out

[@johannjohann6523]

Really enjoy your channel, and how to approach and be able to obtain a higher quality speaker that is out of reach for some of us at the retail level. Even so, many of us still desire a higher class of audio fidelity due to our love of music. What else can stimulate the soul as music does? And the the self satisfaction of DIY ?

[@shankarakrishnamoorthy]

Please also talk about the enclosure building tool which are prerequisites for the post building discussion you have explained.

[@richardbmw320]

Great tips Toid. I do always get a lot out of your videos

[@Toid]

Richard Parnell thanks Richard, it's always great to hear!

[@thereefaholic]

Getting back into the hobby after years on pause. There is a ton of info in this video. Thanks. Now it’s time to get the win10 versions of all of the things you mentioned. I have all the old versions. Thanks for the video.

[@guneygoren2965]

Thanks a lot great information

[@bikernthego]

great video you explain things well i gave you a thumbs up and its cool to see no dislikes also subscribed

[@Toid]

Thanks! I love hearing that!

[@attainableaudio7130]

Nice infomation for beginners. I really wish someone would recompile and freshen up loudspeaker workshop, it's the only program I still use (have an old laptop with windows 7 on it as it won't run on anything newer) still use it for my t/s parameters, my box design, my crossovers designs, and my frequency responses. Still haven't found anything for free that does all that in one program, its hard for some to learn but once you do it stream lines everything... at least for me;)

[@Toid]

Attainable Audio I am with you. It seems like most of the good free programs are becoming obsolete with the newest technology. It is becoming increasingly hard to find stuff that works with windows 10

[@MrFrobbo]

Virtuix, just does it all! 👍👍👍

[@byCDMC]

nice video, thanks. that crossover design program is what i was looking for.

[@hend1n1]

Excellent info, thanks, confirms I was on the right track, and just about to get a PC to run the free software! :-)

[@diyboomboxesintexas2805]

Very good advice.

[@Toid]

Thanks. I appreciate that.

[@howardstever6676]

Excellent info

[@chrisAclaes]

Sent over here from JoeNTell. Excellent info here! I want to build a bass guitar cabinet, so this channel is perfect. Any tips on my particular project are welcome.

[@Toid]

Great to have you! A bass cabinet sounds like an awesome build. I can say from a lot of people that have built bass and electric guitar cabinets, most of them really enjoy Pine as the enclosure material. Interestingly it's actually a high ressonance material, but that's one of the reasons why they like it.

[@EMPELZIP]

Thanks so much!

[@mrinalbarotra791]

Love your content. You teach me a lot. Thank you so so much.

[@Toid]

Mrinal Barotra you're welcome! I'm so glad it's helping. I appreciate hearing that

[@davefred3]

Can you do a video on the various ways to measure VAS with DATs V2?

[@peterslachta1708]

I think, that usable XO software is VitruixCAD too, otherwise very good video. I recomend CNC or 3D printer for making templates ;-)

[@theshootindutchman]

Thanks broham, nice video!

[@Toid]

The Shootin' Dutchman you're welcome! Glad you liked it!

[@PrinceWesterburg]

I've spent decades looking for the perfect box but back to speaker design...

[@ImpulseAudioSpeakers]

Great video idea. This should help a few people. Unless they just want to build kits and stuff. I'd still want a mic for room eq/treatment even if speaker design didnt interest me. I use the minidsp umic as well and it's pretty great for the money. PS. Can REW do active XOers? I know it can do eq but didnt know it can do the highpass lowpass filtering and stuff. But I havent used REW for years and I know they keep expanding it. It's very powerful. Amazing that its free.

[@Toid]

Impulse Audio Thank you. It's great to hear from you! I agree with you about the microphone as well. Even if building just a kit. It helps identify if you made s mistake when building the crossover, which is invaluable, like you said. Rew does do active crossovers. Or at least I should say, I know it works with miniddp crossovers. Such a great program for the price, haha. If your interested, here's the link: www.minidsp.com/applications/auto-eq-with-rew

[@skaramicke]

When you said we need a computer I came to think of something. How did people build great speakers all the way up to the -90’s? Oscilloscopes and sweeping function generators?

[@cgmsounds]

Thanks! Good stuff.

[@Arunjyotsna]

Thank you..

[@amb3cog]

Another great video man. I'm slowly getting all of this gear as money allows. I haven't messed with the software yet, but I've seen how it all works. The soldering iron is probably my next piece. Then the mic. Then the jig. I've got all the hand tools for wires. I have a router that fits that jig. I have a nice computer. Really the only one that's far away is the Dats system. I would have it all already, but I keep finding deals on drivers, and amps, and speakers, and DAC's and well you get the picture. :) BTW I'm glad you mentioned the specific one you use. I like to do my research, but I'm inclined to just buy this since you like it, and is not much money.

[@Toid]

HH Scott I hear you on the good deals, sometimes they are too hard to pass up. If you are in need of a soldering iron, I highly recommend the Xtronic 3020. It really is a great soldering iron for the price. So I do highly recommend it. It sounds like you have a good plan going forward. Good luck getting all your gear.

[@amb3cog]

123Toid Yea I've got some really cool stuff. And I'm getting more. But I need to sell some too. Kind of consolidate. So I can have one really nice main system, and just a couple of other toys. I can't use everything. But I try to. Lol And I'll eventually get all the speaker stuff going to build some really nice ones. Until then I have plenty already. I trying to get the electronics going first. Then I'll build the speakers to fit. It's all fun though no matter what.

[@danbreizh3940]

Chaine très intéressante, malheureusement en anglais seulement. Very interesting channel, unfortunately in English only.

[@johnfisher4910]

I haven't watched it yet, but if it's like your other videos, I'm sure it's fantastic! Thanks so much for all your work. We really do appreciate it.

[@Toid]

John Fisher thanks John, that's great praise! I really love helping when I can. I'm glad you find it helpful

[@ozyprima]

is there any tutorial for tunning speaker box sir? matching speaker impedance with box impedance . thanks

[@petrhorky9034]

Hi, could you do a video how you would measure drivers from scratch, generate frd file, impedence file using the mic, free software and dats hardware? Preparing the files to be uploaded to crossover calculators and box volume programs. I can't find a tutorial on the whole process.

[@johncameron4172]

Dang, I don’t even have a computer. I use my phone to watch videos. Anyway, I have a circular saw, jig saw, a drill, an orbital sander and my ears. I’ve made some pretty decent speaker cabinets. I guess I’m old school but I would laugh if someone told me that their computer told them their speaker cabinets were great. I mean, it’s all in what you like of course but If I was someone getting into building speaker cabinets then I’d trust my own good sense and ears.

[@OfficialDaddys2]

I want some speaker tests !!

[@Atheistic007]

Xsim for Mac would be nice.

[@Toid]

@@Atheistic007 agreed

[@jeffcarney2375]

Great tutorial, and very timely for me personally. I have to clarify this one point. I know what you said, and what's printed on the web pages of Umik and REW. Is it true that I really don't need any audio hardware beyond the USB and audio output of an ordinary laptop? For playing audio test sweeps, is it worthwhile to get an HDMI splitter, or is there enough fidelity through a typical laptop headphone jack?

[@Toid]

Jeff Carney that's a great question. You will get different answers depending on who you ask. Most people prefer HDMI if you have that option. However, I mostly use my 3.5 jack. The most important thing to remember is off you have any audio EQ software, to shut it off. If you don't, it will affect your results

[@jeffcarney2375]

Thanks so much. There's a lot of start-up to this hobby, and if I can avoid some things or put some off, my wife will be much happier.

[@Toid]

Jeff Carney haha, I know what you mean. A happy wife equals a happy life. Glad to hear you like x-sim. It is nice to have the crossover schematic all laid out for you

[@Nightjar726]

Does the new DATs work on a Mac with a virtual windows machine? Thank you sir

[@Toid]

I’m not sure since I haven’t used that setup. But it dies with on windows. Either way, it would be best to talk to Parts Express to find out.

[@greyhound9967]

Do you know of any programs that will automatically generate a crossover (like LEAP, which is no longer available)?

[@chemicallust77]

DATS has been updated to V3 on P/E

[@TheGt500joe]

lol that ending tho

[@Toid]

Haha! The editor got fired. 😁😂

[@meraydin1]

I would like to get your opinion about sound dampening inside the boxes either vented or sealed. Which material to use on each box type?

[@Toid]

That's a good question. In sealed enclosures, I typically use a pillow/craft stuffing. For the ported, I use cheap mattress topper glued to the inside of the cabinet, not in the port itself

[@meraydin1]

@@Toid thanks a lot :)

[@fearwolfbrewery5014]

Which temperature do you soder at?

[@charlieturner5485]

Do you have any thoughts on the DATS v2 vs Smith and Larson Woofer Tester 2? Both look well suited to this purpose. Thanks for the great videos!

[@Toid]

I have never used Larson Woofer Tester 2, so I can't compare the two. What I can say, is that Dats is what I consider one of the best values out there. For $100, you can test all your components (inductors, caps, resistors), your impedance, get your T/S specs and even test if the woofers are good or bad from the factory. Honestly, for what it offers, it seems undervalued to me. I looked over Larson Woofer Tester and it also seemed really good. I just don't have the experience with it. I hope this helps. If not, try Toids diy audio forum and ask if any of the guys on there have used it.

[@charlieturner5485]

@@Toid I just went to P-E's website to order a DATS v2 and it's NLA. DATS v3 is available for preorder for August delivery. If you are still going to the Dayton area this weekend, see if you can coax any juicy details about this new model for us.

[@Toid]

@@charlieturner5485 will do. Maybe I'll live stream if I can get some juicy details. Man it really makes me want one :D

[@charlieturner5485]

@@Toid Makes me envy you because you will be there, but I can not, as my employer expects me to be at work, for some reason or another. Just 2 more years and I will be retired, so then I can go where I want to when I want to. Have a lot of fun, and let us know you saw and heard! :D

[@Toid]

@@charlieturner5485 will do. I'm very disappointed in your employer. How dare they expect you to work :) I'll make sure to keep you guys in the loop.

[@YOLOgamer-yq8yf]

me, who built a subwoofer and by pure luck got the best result: ...

[@HowDareYouu]

great but what is the advantage if i buy Dayton Audio OmniMic V2? Compared to miniDSP UMIK-1

[@Toid]

Another great question. When you buy the Dayton OmniMic V2, you get the OmniMic software with the microphone. If you use another calibrated microphone you are going to be using REW, the free program. I have never personally used the OmniMic software, so I cannot tell you how it differs from Rew. But they are both testing software that you use with your calibrated microphone.

[@zoxwolf2133]

Hey i have DATS V2 and I am measuring two dynaudio d52af dome mid and one of them is showing Qts Qms Qes all zero? This one is older but new in the box. I tried to run it hours and hours trough cap but all the same. It shows Fs relatively ok. Other driver is showing more or less all parameters according to manufacturers list. Do you think ferrofluid dry out? Cheers mate

[@Toid]

If it isn't reading correctly but the other one is, then there is most likely something wrong with it. I can't say for sure without being there, but it sounds like it is no longer good. Sorry.

[@Voidhawk001]

Hi 123toid. I was going to do a freq test but then i realised i didnt know how far to put the mic or how loud the test sweep should be. Can you shed some light on this? Thanks again

[@Toid]

lanuk no problem. Most measurements are done from a distance of 1 meter or 3 feet. The low end is done nearfield of the woofer, ie up close. As far as the level and setup, check out this guide: www.minidsp.com/applications/acoustic-measurements/umik-1-setup-with-rew

[@mitchelllogsdon4254]

Are these still the tools you recommend?

[@Toid]

I personally now use the Omnimic from Parts Express. But otherwise, yes. P.S if you follow my link in the description and use code TOID, you will get an extra 5% off your order on Parts Express.

[@Voidhawk001]

Hi 123toid .. Do I connect my computer via the headphone jack to the speaker to generate the signal for testing the frequency response. Or can I use an amp connected to my computer .. or it doesn't matter? I have a union with few. Thanks

[@Toid]

lanuk I'm assuming you mean for Rew? If that's the case, you hook the speaker up to an amplifier and use the headphone jack to the amplifier. If you're asking for Dats, you just hook the speaker up to the supplied hardware. No amplifier is used.

[@Voidhawk001]

123Toid thanks!! One more query.. for testing the tweeter frequency response is it safe to put the tweeter through the full frequency spectrum sweep which includes the low frequency as well? Or does rew have options for testing tweeters specifically?

[@Toid]

lanuk quick question. There's a couple things that you can do. The first is tested at a very low volume/wattage where the Tweeter will probably not be damaged, you can add a cap to protect it or you can set what frequency response you want to measure, and cut it off before the Tweeter would be damaged. All of those are options. But you can pick what frequency range you actually test with in Rew.

[@Voidhawk001]

123Toid thanks a lot!!

[@Voidhawk001]

When testing the freq response to get the zma files should the driver be mounted in the box that I will be using or is it okay to test the driver as is? Thanks

[@Toid]

lanuk great question. It should be mounted Inside the Box of whatever box you determined to be the right size

[@Voidhawk001]

123Toid so If I understand correctly the calibrated mic will help me get the freq response. And tge dats v2 will determine the impedance curve. What about the cabinet dimensions?

[@dedskin1]

ITs more directional then liner , im sure there is nothing in it in terms of Active crossover filtering or passive stuff , its a Camera directional microphone . I would love someone to show me that this is not so, and how these 100$ are difrent then camera microphone , im guessing its a dynamic microphone , dont see any power supply for it , but if its USB it might be i dont know , I would love to see how someone improve his Speaker using this microphone as measurement tool , and not something else , i think its kind of like Voltmeter , any will do , in good hands .

[@vincentkoster6291]

I love how you rephrase some stuff but don't edit your videos so we get to see the outtakes 😂

[@Toid]

Lol, sometimes it is fun to do that :) I;m glad you enjoy that.

[@diyboomboxesintexas2805]

Vincent Koster I usually to do the same thing in my videos

[@tom35x]

USB Mics are bad, you have only one channel (inside the mic is a usb soundinterface) and no looking at the phase. Buy a minimum 2in 2out usb soundinterface (a cheap UMC22 do the trick) and get a calibrated mic with xlr connector.

[@gimble8638]

this video is absolute nonscence!!! (ex bang and olufsen engineer)

[@davef.566]

Why not build and shape the box inside and outside like a chello violin made from fine hand selected woods its why martin guitars sound so sweet l just raised the bar :-) :-) :-) burn the MDF use hardwoods :-) :-) :-)

[@Toid]

Dave F. I'm with you Dave. I actually really like Hardwoods. And I'm working on a few designs around them. You just have to be careful with some wood, as it increases your resonance at certain frequencies. It can make your speakers sound bloated. but all that comes with testing and knowing what Woods you can and cannot use

[@gregkramer5588]

Those instruments are made that way to add resonances, just the opposite of what is needed in a speaker.

[@dtwistrewind7361]

Hope you have sharp teeth as a jigsaw or router are a must, also clamps drill/driver

[@davidzoller9617]

I've seen a microphone in your links that is USB. With this you can not do measurements involving timing.

[@johnewald3148]

Strange that your room is not treated acoustically

[@Kolfonik]

Why, can't you hear what he says?

[@greatreset3]

PCD is to old to work on modern computers.

[@michaelbarlow5999]

Before you need all that computer crap you need a table saw to cut the wood that your drivers will be mounted in

[@Toid]

You definitely need a way to cut a hole. there really are a lot of options for that. As far as cutting the box itself, a lot of big box stores now will cut down sheets of material for you. So not as necessary. But I know a lot of people that started this hobby with just a jigsaw and a circular saw with a straight edge. my first woodworking equipment all came from auctions. My first router was a dollar, table saw was $50 and circular saw was 5. but you definitely need that have a way to cut it or know someone/some place that can cut it for you.

[@michaelbarlow5999]

You still need those wood working tools before a microphone and computer.@@Toid