5 Ways You're Destroying Your Chain & How To Lube It Properly!

[@gcntech]

How often do clean your chain? 🤔

[@hendriksiering9077]

After every single ride, of course!

[@mikedio]

Once . I fully degrease it when new and after that i wax it . Then every 300 km i wax it .

[@Jean-jk4zv]

When it's dirty or noisy 🙂

[@matthewdutton119]

For my rode bike once about every month unless the days ride was wet and muddy. Then I will clean it that day.

[@shanebennett6722]

I clean my whole drive chain and then lube after every ride. Cassette and chain still look silver even after 2 years.

[@iconhotel182]

I've gone through the motion of lubing my chain, but this is the first time I'm understanding why I'm doing what I'm doing and whether I'm doing it correctly or not. There are a million videos telling us what to do - "lube your chain", "pay attention to your recovery", "do zone 2 rides!", etc. but without explaining why these things are beneficial, the advice is hard to stick. so would love more videos like this that not only talks about what to do and how to do it right, but more importantly why it's important.

[@bikebrain]

If I'm using a liquid chain lube I always apply it to the inside of the chain links, i.e. the top of the lower run. This is so that centrifugal force, created by the chain rotating, will draw the lubricant through the chain. I use Squirt lube which is a wax that is applied as a liquid which then solidifies. No need to mess around with melting the wax first. My chains last forever... well a really long time and 3 times longer than when I was using an oil based lube.

[@morningtidefilms]

I use Squirt as well, and this video seems to support that product choice. 90% of my rides are dry, sometimes a little dust, and I use product about every 30-50 miles.

[@kieranbarry8193]

@@morningtidefilms it will last several hundred kms in dry conditions

[@grahamaustin9085]

How many miles do you get from your chains then?

[@bikebrain]

@@grahamaustin9085 Last SRAM AXS chain was still measuring OK after 14,000 km. I eventually replaced it because I was changing the cassette for larger sprockets.

[@grahamaustin9085]

@@bikebrain That’s impressive!

[@uncleyemen]

I've only very recently begun to dive into the finer details of lubrication, and I've learned that I've been using a less than ideal lubricant thus far. I'm in the process of switching over to waxing my chains, beginning by learning everything I can about the process etc.

[@clairepalmer7148]

Really appreciate this video. As an avid but relatively new cyclist my knowledge on routine maintenance is lacking. Any tips are appreciated.

[@GregLanz]

I've been waxing all my chains for just over three years now. I love how clean everything stays

[@My_HandleIs_]

Which quick chainlock do you recommend for Shimano 10 gear Ultegra/105? I take it the chain must be rewaxed ever 300 km or so, so getting it on/off easy is critical.

[@alexobrien8585]

KMC do quick links -Your mileage might vary, but I’ve reused mine in the life of the chain with no detriment

[@ToddNZMTB]

@@alexobrien8585 I have the same experience here but SRAM quick links, snapped them on and off dozens of times without issue.

[@andrewmcalister3462]

Yeah, no chainring tattoos with wax.

[@iknowzeverything2740]

Too much work. It's also noisy, and your chain rusts if you go through a puddle.

[@brannmacfinnchad9056]

That was surprisingly more informative than expected. Thanks Alex.

[@CL-dh2mf]

Great video! Especially the part where you took the chain apart!!! Haven't seen this before and it really helps understanding!👍

[@owenjarvis9368]

It would be nice to have closer close ups though

[@FoxFox-i1c]

Great video. And after you have cleaned and lubed your chain, check for wear. New chain links are exact 1 inch apart. So get a ruler in inches and precisely measure 10 links with the clean chain on the bike. If your 10 th link is 1,5 mm or 1/16 inch off, put on a new chain. Thats about 0,6% “stretch”. Some say replace the chain at 0,5% some say at 0,75%. And because a chain is so much cheaper than a cassette or chainring and far more easy to replace, just replace your chain early. So clean and lubricate your chain as shown in the video. And replace your worn chain in time. And you don’t need a chain checker, just a ruler in inches. That is so much more clear and easy. Enjoy your diy. 🚴🏻‍♂️🔧

[@rusburns1714]

Well done Alex! Best demo of the inner workings of a roller chain I've seen.

[@jffydavy5509]

Great explanation! A clean, properly lubricated chain can last 3 times longer than a neglected chain. In my opinion and experience the coating on a new chain is a preservative. It is there to protect the chain from rusting in storage and it is a magnet for dirt. After degreasing your new chain coat your new chain with a real chain lubricant. It will shift better, run quieter and last much longer. There is a culprit on the road waiting to eat your chain. It's carbon dust, from car tires. Your front tire picks the dust up and throws it at your chain. Carbon dust, a molecular abrasive, can get into the tight places much faster than dirt. Carbon rubs your chain the wrong way. Cleaning and lubing your chain can help control that unavoidable evil intruder.

[@boudoir00]

I use Squirt - that’s the best chain lube ever, chain always looks clean, it never forms the dreaded paste and it’s environmentally friendly. Try it out, seriously good stuff.

[@robertsamuel1994]

It's fine, but far from the best. Check out zero friction cycling on youtube for intensive testing. Squirt comes out as an okay drip lube, but with penetration issues. Other more expensive wax based drip lubes like UFO drip are waaay better AND are cheaper when you take component wear into account.

[@piotrwojcik1756]

Tried , good on kmc chains,they are made of stainless steel but not the best for shimano chains, after every wet ride shimano chains get rusty pretty quickly .

[@iggalan]

I also use it but I don’t know how often it should be applied (if used on dry conditions). Every ride (say 20 to 80 Km)? Every 100 Km? 200 Km? Currently I clean all the transmission after every ride, clean the chain with a cloth, apply wax, remove excess, done.

[@johnhutto71]

I've used it for a few years now on all my bikes. It has extended chain life, is very quiet, and keeps things clean. It has taken a little time to figure out how often to apply it though.

[@tychoMX]

@@iggalan there is no set duration because it depends on the conditions you are riding. I normally wipe the chain at the end of every ride with a clean rag. If chain sounds dry or looks like it needs lubrication then that gets addressed. The TT bike needs it about once per season (weekly use, almost never used in the rain because that’s unnecessary misery). The ‘cross bike gets a full chain cleaning and relube every race. For the pros, it’s even every lap sometimes! With Squirt I found that excessive application lead to buildup around the jockey wheels. It didn’t need to be reapplied as often as I thought (road bike). I do not use it in bikes that will often deal with very dirty conditions like an MTB so not sure how it would fare there.

[@andyfryer3615]

I use an upgrade to Si's WD40 hack. It's rhe WD40 Specialist White Lithium protective grease. Works like a champ you just spray it on liberally and wipe any excess off with an old sock. Chains are quiet, last a long time and no need for all the faff. Time is money

[@Ruggine85]

Best chain maintenance video EVER!

[@GCNalex]

Thanks Marco, quite the statement, but i will happily accept it haha

[@Timtimzi]

I use squirt lube (wax based). Cheap and keeps the chain life long. No need to mess around with melting the wax first. Just need to fully strip the factory grease. Best of all, it's clean and shiny.

[@richardmiddleton7770]

Rubbish in the wet and having to fully degrease and dry the chain everytime is a PITA.

[@GNX157]

Finally, someone at GCN who knows how a chain works and explains is correctly. Just remember, roller wear does not make a chain longer. It might make it shift a bit sloppy, but it’s only the pin to pin bore wear that makes a chain measure longer.

[@dudeonbike800]

But they fail to appreciate that a chain ridden off road or in inclement weather on road gets dirty IMMEDIATELY. So getting it "pristine" through degreasing is really a waste of time. It's as much a waste of time as is scrubbing your tires perfectly clean after every ride. Why? They're dirty within minutes on the next ride, with all that "abrasive sludge" wearing things out right off the bat. Take care of your chains, but don't overdo it. They're consumable items that wear out. Change before elongation gets too bad and you're fine. The only exception to this is immersion waxing. I've spent 45 years cleaning chains with all the different traditional lubes, wet and dry. Finally purchased bulk wax & powder tungsten disulfide to make my own chain wax. Can't wait to finally enjoy drive trains free of gunk (even though I've always taken care to prevent the build-up).

[@Roman.Denisenko.New.Zealand]

Almost all info copied from Zero Friction Cycling web

[@mikeburgess5760]

Dude on Bike, when your chain gets dirty immediately, is that dirt immediately getting past lubricant & onto inner surfaces? Is it getting past the Molybdenum Disulphide or Tungsten Disulphide additives that chemically bond to the metal to reduce friction? Nope. There's more to cleaning a chain thoroughly before lubricating than just keeping mud at bay. Read up on it from Silca or Zero Friction Cycling

[@dudeonbike800]

@@mikeburgess5760 yes, but it doesn't "get past" lubricants. They aren't barriers. Dirt combines with the lubricant and creates an abrasive paste. If you understand capillary action of liquids, you quickly realize that grimy lube, water & mud work their way into the links and rollers almost immediately. The lube doesn't act as a barrier - it's an attractant for grime. The advantage to wax is that it doesn't form an abrasive paste. Nor do dry lubricant powders, so they perform their function without the drawbacks of liquid lubes. And yes, I've read a lot on the subject.

[@ewanbent9028]

Mark the chain with the chalk or crayon in your puncture repair kit to indicate the start and finish point when lubing up. Avoids over lubing.

[@gcntech]

Nice Hack! 🙌

[@jt0759]

Start with the master link

[@bruceperry1408]

You wipe of excess anyway but if you using expensive stuff be obcessive for that reason.

[@chris1275cc]

I use "WPL Wet Lube" works a treat, bio degradable, stays on the chain in wet conditions, doesn't pick up much crap even on my gravel bikes (but it is a wet lube so it does pick up some) but emulsifies under high-ish (standard hose) pressure or with minimal brushing and no special solvents or degreasers required. Some of the cycling magazines made a big song and dance about how good it was, rating it above many of the usual suspects a few years back, but then it faded in obscurity for some reason. Weird stuff very thick like syrup when applying but a few turns of the cranks and it goes thin.

[@kalex4352]

4:12 nice ring, Manon!

[@mikeburgess5760]

I'm a Paraffin Wax + PTFE guy mostly. Recently bought Tru Tension All Weather Tungsten to use as a top-up (& hopefully deposit some Tungsten Disulphide on inner surfaces to lower friction). I was using a large slow cooker but that failed, so now use food bags with ziplock tops (same as Molten Speed Wax or Silca use?) & melt in hot water. Initial cleaning (meths + isopropyl alcohol) the longest stage...

[@Tourrider99]

Molten Speed Wax all the way! I never clean my drive train anymore. At least no degreasing. Wipe down some dry wax residue using a rag from time to time. Once thoroughly cleaned then waxed for the first time, no need to do any more degreasing of drive trains. pop the chain off, dunk it in wax pot, shake then dry, pop it back on the bike. Used to get anywhere from 2000-6000 kms using various chain lubes. Having converted to wax 5 years ago, last chain lasted 20,000 km to reach 0.5 wear.

[@stevenleith7237]

OMFG this man works for the GCN corpo hacks. Interesting how long he will be able to tell the honest truth.

[@DavidMackenzie]

What a great video Alex! Really well explained, I wanted to immediately go clean and re-lube my bike chain 😊 Do you have any tips on cleaning the chain on a direct drive turbo trainer? I’m reluctant to do to much cleaning in case it drips and messes with the electronics.

[@gcntech]

That's how we know we've done a good job! 🙌

[@PNH-sf4jz]

It appears to me that one way to shorten the life of a chain is to "clean it too well". By cleaning down to and into the factory lubricated part of the chain, we can actually be removing quality lubricant and replacing it with inferior lubricant. Worse still, road dirt and grime will have easier access to the working parts of the chain. As in everything, there is a balance between clean and too clean.

[@JoshuaBorrow]

Factory lubricant was good 20 years ago. Now it is terrible. If you are using any modern product, you should remove all of the factory grease before applying. See Zero Friction Cycling.

[@PNH-sf4jz]

@@JoshuaBorrow Thanks for your reply Josh, I will check out Zero Friction Cycling for more info. Cheers, PNH

[@halloweenjack2562]

Thought I knew all there was to know about how and why to lube a chain....not so! Great vid, and ta very much!

[@menelaos951]

Absolutely terrific explanation, that was true GCN Tech!

[@dandenham3139]

Since you asked, I use homemade lube of 3 parts mineral spirits to 1 part synthetic motor oil. I’ve recently added a little STP to the mix. I relube my chain about every 200 miles, give the mineral spirits time to evaporate, and then wipe down the chain sometime before the next ride. It’s cheap enough that I can use it liberally to wash the chain while lubing. I install a new chain once it shows 50% wear. I get 3000-5000 miles at this rate depending on road conditions I ride in. Ultegra 11-speed chains are cheap enough not to use high-priced lubes and extra time with waxing. I know that not everyone maintains their bikes well, so that may be cause for them to use expensive lubes. I find this to be the best cost-time benefit for me.

[@nluisa]

I found motor industry derived products often work much better, however, I also became aware that is also because they don't biodegrade (they are not meant to either). I moved on to readily biodegradable products which, although not as durable, work well enough and won't persist in the soil. Fenwick's all weather lube was the best one I found so far. Lasts a few hundred km and yet washes off easily with citrus cleaner.

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

100% brill, my dude. Molten wax.. undisputedly the best lube method. Silca Secret Chain lube.. arguably the best molten wax, top shelf either way. Imo the next best is drip on wax. My chain is so clean and quiet I feel privileged to use this stuff.

[@lesleysmith5623]

Service bikes as a hobby. Majority of my time is spent removing large amounts of oil and grease from chain, derailleurs, frame and back wheel. I use Rock’n’Roll Gold or Rock’n’Roll Extreme on chain after a clean and degrease. Cleans and lubricates and no mess. Bikes that are transported in cars now don’t mess up upholstery.

[@mauricetremblay1324]

SILCA secret sauce. Excellent video.

[@SidAuteur]

Good job Alex. I clean my chains about three times a year and they run quiet and last at least three years, so far. Except my trainer, which has had the same chain for five years and doesn't get very dirty. It's only been cleaned a couple of times and I just add lube as needed. That said, I've never measured them. Maybe they're worn out and I just haven't noticed. Often I clean a chain because I'm switching from dry/wet lube with the seasons.

[@My_HandleIs_]

You can measure chain wear with a cheap tool. At 0,75% (longer than from factory), a new chain is needed.

[@moreaupi]

Nice to finally talk about waxing. I have been doing this for the last 2 years and there is no turning back. No more degreasers and black gunk. A tip to apply the wax with a chain on is to have it crossed (bibby-big) to open up the link surfaces. Also, you can use this trick: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2fanoKgmdOYpbs

[@marksIItimewarps]

I think my technique results to even cleaner chain if using wet lubes - I remove the chain from the bike whenever I re lube, to completely avoid getting lube to the cassette and chain ring. I then lay down the chain over an old newspaper or rag and then apply the lube. The old newspaper will absorb any excess oil and grime from the chain. And finally wipe the chain down very thoroughly with a rag before putting back on the bike to remove any oil on the chain's surface. Back pedal the bike as quickly as possible for few minutes and any more excess oil will get to the chain's surface which you must wipe off again with rag. Repeat back pedaling for few minutes and wiping off until the chain is no longer showing any oil. This way, the chain will only have just enough oil in the pins to lubricate but little to none on the outside to attract dirt.

[@ladislavpecsuk4225]

Thank Alex

[@sherlockholmes8735]

Excellent and very informative video! Cheers Alex!

[@mejsansturmid6396]

Hi Guys, I use to clean the chain with a thin motoroil like SAE 5W and a microfibre cloth every 100-200km. That of course includes the cassette, chainrings and rollers. Then, in winter, I just use the same oil for a slight lubrication. In Summer, I lubricate with transmission oil SAE80 instead to make it stick better. Smells a little though. Big advantage is that these oils are cheap and never harden. Which means that you do not have to spend even more money and time on degreasing. Just clean and lubricate and wipe the excess oil off with a clean microfibre cloth. My chains last about one year until they approach the wear limit after about 6000-7000km, cassette and chain rings twice as long. Considering the money I do NOT spend on expensive special products, this seems a good compromise to me. Remember: A new chain costs less than a new can of expensive lube plus degreaser. I did a lot of Enduro & MC when I was younger and that are really chain murdering conditions. But the same applied: A seasonal selection of thick and thin engine or gearbox oils if applied frequently do the trick at a fraction of the cost of expensive special products. Think of the camchain in an internal combustion engine, which lubrication does it get? Correct. And If you are environmentally conscious: Use bio-degradable chainsaw oil. Or olive oil in winter. Also smells much nicer than gearbox oil.😀 But avoid other natural oils like sunflower, they harden quickly, olive oil is best.

[@mikeburgess5760]

But engines are not usually subject to the same level of external contamination that chains are to create a grinding paste (& they have a filter to deal with eg soot) so not really a good comparison

[@chriswright9096]

Isn't engine oil optimized for the higher temperatures found inside engines? Having said that, I imagine your method works fine as long as you clean the chain regularly. I find some of the expensive waxy lubes don't last long (sometimes less than a single ride before the chain gets that dry, unlubricated feel to it).

[@garthwillis9449]

Great video, thanks Alex! You mentioned reversing rotating the crank backwards after applying lube to the cleaned chain. I may of missed it, but curious the reverse action as opposed to normal forward rotation - what’s the reason? Cjeers

[@ianiscaratti4924]

it,s just because you can't rotate it forward when not having the bike on a bikestand. simple

[@charliecook6909]

Parktool chain checker is the best tool iv ever brought, chains are cheaper than cassettes to replace

[@Cyclingismywholelife]

Cameo of Hank the Tank? Thumbs go up!

[@williamfry4982]

I loved that learned a lot and really like your presenting. I ride XCM and train mostly on gravel and dirt roads I rotate two chains and clean and lube them after every ride, no mater how long or short and I use a good waxy lube. I'm lucky if I get 1500km on one chain and 6000km on a Cassette.

[@cubatea]

Thanks Alex. I learnt a lot

[@richardmiddleton7770]

Castrol Power1 Racing 2T 2-stroke engine oil. About 1/4 the price of the best chain oils and probably does a better job due to more and longer R&D. Very good in the wet also, you can see the water beading on the surface but its also very easy to degrease with GT85 (also much cheaper than most drive chain degreasers). You're welcome. 👍

[@manoz6194]

Squirt lube actually recommends lubing the cassette by cycling the freshly lubed chain through the cogs to coat them.

[@ianiscaratti4924]

but this is a silca commercial

[@irisgallati]

Hi @GCN Tech: I'm Sadly missing one important thing: please precise WHERE TO APPLY the lubricant! Sometimes, it's done right, sometimes, it's done wrong in your examples in the video! If you are on the road and don't have time to let your freshly lubed chain sit over night, lube the INNER circumference of the chain! Therefor, apply the oil on the chain below the chain stay! The centrifugal force generated when pedaling then transports your lube past the pins and through the entire chain, to all those places, exactly where we want it to reach! When done wrong by lubing the chain on the outside, because of the centrifugal force generated by pedaling, all the oil is going to fling off, and there it is, where the real waste of product is talking place! Only ever apply lube on the outer side of your chain, when you have time to let it sink in and let gravity do it's job over night! And it's only the next morning, when you wipe off the excess product!

[@chriswright9096]

I think the oil penetrates the microscopic gaps between rollers, pins and links via capillary action and by virtue of its low viscosity. I don't think gravity or centrifugal force matters so much.

[@irisgallati]

@@chriswright9096 it does indeed matter especially in racebikes if you shift the chain through all the gears.... And it is dangerous when having rimbrakes, because drops of lube could fling off the chain and hit the rim... Small but important security mesure tought at any swiss professional bike mechanic formation school.

[@manchesterexplorer8519]

What's the point of purchasing a hollow chain to save weight if all the voids in the chain get filled with muck megating the weight savings ?

[@erikringdal844]

I thought I knew it all, you are good!

[@johnleonard5936]

i started using Silca Secret hot wax 2 years ago and will never go back to drip lubes again. The chain and bike stay so clean, and the drivetrain is very quiet and efficient.

[@starkmapper2]

Hi Sjoerd, awesome video! Can you elaborate on how lubricant can be applied to the surface between de outer and inner links? The advice is to apply it the inside of the rollers, so how is that lube supposed to get to that area? Take the subway? 🤔 Sad to hear you're not invited to the bike festival, maybe we can crowdsource you a ticket? Interns are people too you know! Keep up the good work bob, Alex & team

[@jameslee-pevenhull5087]

I've found a fantastic product. 'Wood Silk', furniture polish. Natural Bee's wax in solvent that boils off. Wax and solvent flow into rollers and then solvent vaps off.

[@philippecardin1109]

1:52 Should'nt you apply the lube inside the chain (not on top), the side that actually touches the cassette and chainring when rolling?

[@mediumrick7667]

Q for Alex: You mentioned that the wear was to the pins and rollers and a chain doesn't actually stretch. I've heard similar before. The think I don't quite understand is when an old chain is measured against a new chain, the overall length is noticeably different. A worn chain is longer. Any explanation for why that is?

[@shmish]

The metal isnt stretching. The metal wears away and this metal removal allows the chain links to move further apart from each other..

[@GrahamRicketts]

by the time you've gone through the phaff of cleaning your chain and lubing each link, you might as well bite the bullet, clean your whole drivetrain and switch to waxing !

[@GlensFallsRich]

What's interesting is that there seem to be several and often differing opinions on drive train maintenance, depending on the source of the advice. I use Rock N Roll Gold for chain lube. The directions on the bottle are in complete opposition to your instruction here. The bottle indicates that a healthy stream should be applied to the chain at the cassette. Perhaps it's because the product is a cleaner and lube combined. But it's frustrating to try to do the right thing, only to hear that I'm making mistakes. My search for knowledge has left me feeling empty.

[@alexanderscott2567]

Canadian Winter, with slush and salt, will T**** your chain. I run two chains on my Winter bike; one on and one spare. The T**** spare goes into Naptha spirits to get the crap that I put on off, then is brush washed in detergent to clean the street crap off. It hangs to dry overnight, then soaks in 3 in 1 oil. When to change your chain? When it's -15 and you kick your pedal back and it goes back forward, your chain is T****ed and needs to be replaced. Don't forget the rest of your mech when your chain is off. Hose it with WD40 to clean out the salt water and wipe down.

[@robertprince2504]

Rock’n’Roll Gold. Quick, easy, lasts and stays pretty clean. Wax process is too time consuming (I know it’s very good as a lubricant but it just takes too long).

[@petersteadman841]

I'm surprised that magnatech that used in some engine lubricant is not in chain lube. Also, the additives that clean while lubing. Seems ideal for a chain ✌️

[@jacobusdegroot7557]

I love the hot wax method.

[@rbonn3880]

Loved this...I use wax as my lubricant of choice.

[@JamesSmith-zs8fl]

Clean and lubricate often! WD, 3in1, doesn't matter; clean and lube often.

[@WPKSC]

I went to the solid wax chain method. Best thing I’ve done. Clean stays super clean in all weather rides, and although a little more effort to do is certainly worth it imo.

[@vulpesinculta7074]

Pro wax bike 7 - take it, hold it, love it. All about chain lube

[@dudeonbike800]

Ultimately, the solution to dirty chains and drive trains is the carbon belt. Not perfect, but a great alternative & solution to that dreaded mess!

[@GCNalex]

Im not sure its "THE" solution, but its certainly a good one if running single speed or a gearbox

[@rondvivre3636]

Mobil 1, 0W16

[@billkallas1762]

I've been using WL clean ride for 20 years or more. I get fantastic chain life and unbelievable cassette life. If you often ride in the rain, I wouldn't use this. I would stay with an oil-based lube.

[@manoz6194]

I use two chains and alternate them but as a deliveroo rider using a mid drive ebike I go through them fast.

[@grcgrcgrcgrc4]

Wolf Tooth chain lube. Lasts longer than regular lube. Waiting for a LBS to start stocking the precision applicator. I know I end up wasting too much lube.

[@sunsolarman]

Recently have changed my single speed bike chain, 1/2" X 1/8" which caused lots of noise which It didn't have with old chain. I can't figure it out Thanks

[@savagepro9060]

After watching this video my thoughts were derailed by a series of chain reactions!

[@sirunclerico6772]

Im all for that retro Casio!

[@fphotography]

Ceramic lube from muc-off. Always dry lube even if it rains since I think it is easier to maintain.

[@Mclovinthedank]

I never re apply wet lube. but the dry lube I will if the chain still looks clean.

[@deannahulon2841]

When riding indoors, how often do you have to clean your chain and re apply lube?

[@AlySayuki]

I also want to know this as well! My mountain bike is my Zwift indoor bike that connects to my Wahoo Kickr V5 so I am curious as well! 😊

[@asork]

I use wax for my track and road bike, rewax every 500km. Only on my tracklocross bike i use oil lube

[@ernest2364]

I've been hot waxing my chains with Teflon for over 3 years. I have 3 chains, so I clean and dip them about once a month and I have over 9,000miles per chain so far and they still so good with a Park tool gage. My fear is they may break from metal fatigue. I will never go back to oiling a chain again!

[@My_HandleIs_]

Baby wipes are pretty good for chain and cassette cleaning. Cheap and disposable. Leave them out to dry before use.

[@mikeburgess5760]

But often made with plastic so bad for the environment?

[@karlInSanDiego]

It does beg the question, if the side effect of a worn chain is that the roller inner diameter is slightly larger, and the post outer diameter is slightly smaller, why doesn't the roller just find it's happy place on the sprocket/chainwheel tooth as it has more freedom to find said happy place, and the real stress of the pulling forces are on the arcs of chain that cover the front of the chainring and the back of the cassette sprocket where they are already seated firmly on their teeth. We say that the spacing between rollers has increased on a "stretched" worn chain, but it's both increased and decreased without actually changing the real spacing across the entire length that runs from the Top Dead Center of the sprocket and TDC of the chainring. If the chain is still the same ultimate length, is seems illogical that a worn chain is really responsible for tooth damage, as engagement at the back of the bike is not under load, and on the front of the bike is really under stress at the whole forward half of the chainring. Could this entire theory of a worn chain causing tooth damage actually be correlation with poor chain maintenance (dirt) in general causing friction/grinding down of the teeth and not at all be causation associated with a worn chain? Let's talk to some sprocket makers. I bet they know the real story. Before we accept popular "wisdom" let's not forget that skinny tire theory was wrong for way too long, because we failed to challenge it.

[@emmabird9745]

Hi Alex, a big thumbs up from me. I used to use oil but have recently changed to hot wax (I hope i did it right, lets see Ollie's vid). I have found it great. Quieter, better shifting, altogether better. The only draw back i have encoutered is, because when not being ridden, my bike lives in a damp shed (best I can do at the moment) the wax has worn off the outer surfaces and a thin rust film formed. What can I do?

[@carlmullender2941]

Before you put the bike away, run the chain backwards through a rag made wet with WD40, it will displell any water without affecting the wax on the inside. Do not spray WD40 onto your chain, it goes everywhere, including onto your disks/rims.

[@johnleonard5936]

@@carlmullender2941 Wipe the chain off with a rag and denatured alcohol. The alcohol will not leave any residue. Follow this up with a wax drip lube.

[@emmabird9745]

@@carlmullender2941 Thanks Carl.

[@andrewmcalister3462]

Agree, at the end of a wet ride, just dry off any excess water on the chain with a rag. The good thing about wax is the rag won't get filthy like it would with an oil-based lube.

[@emmabird9745]

@@andrewmcalister3462 Thanks Andrew, good advice. I haven't ridden with this chain in the wet yet. But I will follow this advice.

[@cornellmiller2315]

IMO The most efficient lube when it come to cost, speed and longevity has to go to Squirt. Rockin roll Gold is my honorable mention.

[@jxpowers]

I'm using squirt, feel like it dosent last long at all before it starts to squeak

[@boudoir00]

Squirt is the best chain lube out there. I use it on all my bikes in all conditions.

[@cornellmiller2315]

@@jxpowers I know why yours squeaks u most likely put it on like regular oil, u have to heat it up a little I microwave for 12 sec then squirt it coating it alot that y they named it that it will seem like your putting to much on your not its also a good idea to big ring cross chain to get it in the links good spin till perfect purrr of chain lol✌ p.s open cap slightly if u microwave

[@kyle_c936]

@@cornellmiller2315 Excellent tip - I think that's the key. But whatever you do, don't ever put your chain in the microwave to 'dry it quicker' after you've degreased it (yeah, yeah, you know why you shouldn't but i is fick so I didn't!), cos if you do it'll hiss and spit and threaten to blow up the microwave and you with it - you don't need to ask me how I know...

[@bikeman123]

I have found that fastidiously degreasing a chain is counterproductive since you cant replace the internal grease. Only when the links have worn will the lube penetrate the inner links. By then its probably too late. A wipe over the chain and a light oil seems to work best.

[@mydearriley]

does anyone else get the impression that GCN films a lot of random segments then smashes them together with little disregard for fluidity?

[@notmyrealname6272]

What would you recommend for cleaning indoors on carpet? Only ride indoors at the mo and live lots of floors up with no garden. Is there a good product to use to not make a right mess?

[@ianiscaratti4924]

silca has some towels and you can use them for the bike too

[@grahamaustin9085]

A plastic sheet?

[@notmyrealname6272]

@@grahamaustin9085 thanks gor the replies. I just wondered if there was a cleaning product that was drier or something. Anyway -thanks.

[@meibing4912]

Vaxing my chain is the best decision I have ever taken when it comes to bike maintenance. Initial pain pays itself back so many times over.

[@gcntech]

It really can make life easier 🙌

[@mr.monitor.]

Get the Moderna for your bike do ya? 😅

[@LukeGJPotter]

I got sick of cleaning and relubing my chain, twice a week, in late 2018. I switched to Molten Speed Wax, and haven't looked back since. One wax per month, and just a nice cleaning rag with warm water after each ride. I noticed a lack of Muc-Off lube in this video, I guess the sponsorship ended, either financially or damaged reputation aka "The Muc-Off Files".

[@tomahoks]

Muc Off for life❤

[@gmccmemberk]

So what about Si‘s WD-40-only approach?

[@ianiscaratti4924]

those were wd40 commercial times now it's silca commercial time

[@Team5TL]

Wax all the way. When my chain starts to make noise I drop it in the pot. I have a dedicated small crockpot ($13 on Amazon) that I use. It does take a couple of hours to get the wax and chain up to temp but the results are worth it.

[@madyogi6164]

Yes, with every pedal push!

[@vincec727]

i’m not a bike guy. ride few times a year. my chain just broke first time i rode after oiling the chain. coincidence? or can a bad lube job cause that. Bike is like 3 years old

[@steffen_a]

Great video! Only thing that I thought was missing because some people actually don’t know this is the fact that when you put a new chain on your bike you have to remove the factory grease. Because that’s not chain lube. It’s only purpose is to protect the chain from rusting while being shipped and stored until first use.

[@roblucchetti2993]

If you don't want to remove the chain to clean it, invest in a good chain cleaner tool from Park or others. Starting with a clean chain, cassettes, rings, and jockey wheels are essential to getting the most out of chain lube. Personally, I switched to hot wax, which creates a bit more chain noise due to less damping but is much easier to maintain, and provides a very level of lubrication and a low level of wear. This goes triple for any of us who have older bikes or use more aged 90's components that are really hard to replace. Do yourself a favor and take some time to do a proper lube job; your parts will last much longer.

[@gcntech]

Great point about older bikes! Parts wear becomes very important when you are looking for those retro parts 😬 Have you found waxing your chain has improved your riding?

[@janwillemkuilenburg7561]

Well explained! And chain wax as the cliffhanger is great. Waxing your chain prolongues its life substantially, it has the least possible friction and attracts no dirt at all. The only complex part of waxing is stripping a new chain in various steps with different solvents. After that the waxing process is very easy with a rice cooker while you control the temperature.

[@billszymanski4844]

So if the pin to pin distance isn’t increasing in a worn chain, why is an old chain longer than a new chain when I hang them next to each other. Each pin to pin center on the old is slightly longer than the new?

[@mandarhp88]

Do agree that the cassette does not need lube. However, just leaving it clean later shows small spots of rust on it. How do I prevent it (Campy Veloce groupset)?

[@simonm1447]

Maybe a light layer of wax

[@ianiscaratti4924]

dry it after cleaning

[@rickhellard1406]

Great information. I find the light lubes wash off in the rain very easily, so I worry about riding on damp days. Is there a product that still works when wet?

[@blubaughmr]

Oil. Dry lubes for dry riding, wet lubes for wet riding.

[@boudoir00]

So, if the chain doesn’t actually get stretched, then why is the new chain which I lay out beside the old chain to get the right number of links longer?

[@jefferycampbell2243]

That's due to wear at the point the links pivot around the pins. That increase in clearance on each link adds up to a longer chain.

[@PoulHansenDK]

If every axle/rivet is worn, it will appear longer

[@chbrosz]

Think of it as the holes in all the links have been widened, so when you pull the chain in tension, the links will all stretch out and the whole chain will appear longer. If you could compress the chain, you could in theory get it back to its original length

[@SkinUpMonkey]

The rollers will get worn down allowing the pins to move further apart.

[@PNH-sf4jz]

​@@chbrosz If you place the worn chain along a straight edge and put it under compression, you will probably find that it is shorter than a new chain, because of the wear around the pins and the holes in which the pins turn. The new chain will be constant and the old chain will be as short by the same amount in compression as it is longer in extension, in comparrison to the new chain.

[@hope2someday691]

? Have you ever done an extensive 11 speed chain comparison? Is there much (if any) gain of running a 105 vs Ultegra vs Dura-Ace? I read a post that recommended using a Campagnolo record with a Dura-Ace system. The claim is that it shifted as well as the Dura-Ace chain and had a much better life expectancy (claiming the DA chains broke too easy). “This was a hack the Crite cyclists were doing”.

[@108kitsune]

What about the finish line degreaser and chain lube?

[@DoNuT_1985]

It's not so much a problem for me on my road bike, but how can I preserve my chain in cold and wet conditions, even if doesn't get too wet and dirty? I have a city bike and regularly clean my chain with one of those fancy-named park tools, also lubing it link-per-link and getting rid of any excess lube. However, after a few rides in winters conditions, it already shows some rust on out the outer plates, even though I have a towel to dry it after rainy rides and it's relatively clean. I really don't think special coating or something like that pays off on my old bike with a low-tier group set where the chain costs less than 20€ but I still want to get some decent mileage on it... is the material on these chains (Shimano 7/8/9 speed) so bad compared to 105 upwards?

[@damian33dc]

I had the same problem as you especially in the winter I found the best way around this problem is to use chains that are nickel-plated from KMC and there are other manufacturers that use the same process. There are also other options like titanium and other metals but are for more expensive. It is that top coating flash Rust. And the cost is not that much more.

[@DoNuT_1985]

@@damian33dc Thanks for the tip. I think, the bike even had a KMC chain on coming from the factory. I also measured the chain and if I can trust my chain gauge, it has more wear than my road bike's 105 chain with 5-10 times the mileage. Let's try KMC on the next swap.

[@megg2004]

Great stuff as always, Jake. What's GCN's stance on using butter as chain lube? I was just curious. 🙃

[@EdwardTBurke-pv3qr]

As someone who has Campagnolo on all my bikes, extra virgin olive oil is the only way to go. A little oregano keeps the shifting sweet!

[@megg2004]

@Edward T. Burke I'm personally a bigger fan of basil. Any particular brand of EVOO you'd recommend? Perhaps Colavita so I can get kit to match my chain oil brand? 😆

[@EdwardTBurke-pv3qr]

@@megg2004 I have a 2 liter bottle of Colavita in the pantry. They also do a very good balsamic vinegar. Cycling to food, I love all things Italian!

[@mdgpatch7980]

ever since the Silca partnership it feels like every video is a Silca advert

[@adaml5473]

Cuz GCN hasn’t been good in like 5 years

[@serdiezv]

Wow it's almost like that's what a partnership is about! Just don't use Silca if you don't like it, lube is lube, degreaser is degreaser.

[@mdgpatch7980]

@@serdiezv it’s more about how GCN used to be good and now every video is just paid advertising