5V USB Portable Solar Power Charger || DIY or Buy

[@greatscottlab]

The first 1000 people who click the link will get 2 free months of Skillshare Premium: skl.sh/greatscott2

[@xboxgamer9216]

@@Lorenzo_apd he post the vid early for payteron

[@constructdaily]

Lorenzo Carelli apd this was a pre uploaded video with set date

[@trungluongquang606]

the electronic side is a path way to many abilites some consider to be unatural!!!

[@dinithaw]

need video about NB-IOT and LTE-M . Also Available Hardware Products For NB IOT.(like SIMCOMs SIM7000 Module)

[@neo_uwuowo]

Remove the plastic

[@angunperme4701]

You should have built a hinging mechanism in the 3D printed frame itself.

[@doublepmcl6391]

That was also my thoughts too. Otherwise everything else is pretty nice tbh

[@gabedarrett1301]

Maybe some sort of compliant mechanism for reliability?

[@davidpritchett855]

A barrel and pin system would be super easy for this and probably very sturdy. Could even potentially incorporate the cell connections into the barrels and connect via the pin.

[@wunderwaffeyt4077]

If you've watched GreatScottt's videos for a long time then you know that this type of video where the DIY route is the winner is pretty rare.

[@greatscottlab]

True

[@rahimkvayath]

yup

[@addygreen8919]

I did not get why DIY was the winner in this video. It costs the same and you have to invest more time.

[@dreamlifter7569]

@@addygreen8919 maybe because you can get more EXP from this...., :)

[@wunderwaffeyt4077]

@@addygreen8919 maybe it's because it is more versatile because you can change certain features at your own accord unlike the commercial product where it's difficult to edit to meet your needs. Besides this is an early prototype so he might be able to reduce the cost or improve the product in a later video.

[@lauratatsch1066]

This panel can put out close to 100 watts kzbin.infoUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.

[@pauljackson2126]

Did you perform the Current Load Test of 10:00 on the commercial product? If the current was limited by your phone, then the maximum current capabilities would be higher too, right?

[@greatscottlab]

I tried the test. Result was about the same.

[@yagneshpatel1183]

bro he means direct 2 wire system system of 5v charging is limited . by the way we only get 2.4 A max technology for fast charging on 2 wired ampere technology we need data line for increased voltage rather than current for fast charging . some phone go up to 18V+ for fast charging so wire is be thin for more power . and charge pull more to battery.

[@Pentyhm]

Some step down boards on AliExpress have a chip to enable fast charging you can try one of these.

[@Segphalt]

@@greatscottlab Then how did the commercial version loose? Not to mention durability... Those tabs going to hold up to repeated folding and unfolding? I doubt it.

[@MrMcPeppr]

@@greatscottlab Isc only applies in STC = standard test conditions = laboratory conditions of 1000 W/m² and 25°C cell temperature. You would at least need to direct the cells to the sun to get closer to the nominal Isc and Voc I would love to invite you to our research center, Fraunhofer Center for Silicon-Photovoltaics in Halle.

[@beratbaki1681]

My favorite day "Great Scott uploads day"

[@greatscottlab]

Thanks :-)

[@-never-gonna-give-you-up-]

"Uplads"

[@beratbaki1681]

@@-never-gonna-give-you-up- fixed

[@-never-gonna-give-you-up-]

@@beratbaki1681 it wasn't to drill you into the ground btw :) I tought you did it on purpose haha

[@ahmetyahyasenel7520]

Katılıyorum sana sevdiğim en iyi adamlardan bir tanesi/ i agree with you, he is one of the best man i liked.

[@piyushprasad2878]

great scott:diy is winner me: finally

[@misterhash9329]

scott*

[@piyushprasad2878]

@@misterhash9329 thanks I was in hurry that time

[@Asu01]

The solar tapping wires are going to wear out and break within a few folds, wouldn't they? An MPPT circuit would be a more proper solution than the buck boost converter, maybe try to make a DIY low power MPPT circuit for next project?

[@MegaSteamfreak]

And use JLCPCB's SMT assembly service for the custom PCB :D

[@power-max]

MPPT would require a load that can absorb a continually variable amount of power. I don't know if all phones would accept a varying power input. This is why in general a battery or supercapacitor is used as an intermediary buffer. Something like USB Power Delivery or one of the proprietary Quick Charge standards might help.

[@dreamcat4]

The dodgy wiring can be easily fixed a number of ways. So in my opinion feels largely unimportant just couldnt be bothered to do it properly because its rapid prototyping. Perhaps that should have been stated more clearly when mentioned. Anyhow more importantly I think the other issue you raise here about MPPT is indeed something that should be addressed and looked into further. I was actually pretty impressed however at how well matched and good performance he managed to get with the off the shelf cheapo buck boost converter. So maybe a good follow up would be a head to head contest between that and a cheap MPPT (or self made one). To see how much benefit for doing it properly. Vs the higher cost of that component. And to see how much power was actually being left on the table. And perhaps gain some useful insight as to why the specific buck boost converter being chosen had worked so well as it did. If it was anything to do with the input stage of the buck boost circuit being in common with the way an MPPT works. Would be great part 2 revisit.. I also wanted to point out that epoxy shrinks by 10% so is not ideal for larger panels that you can see in the video does not dry flat due to the shrinkage or may cause stress or other mechanical issue. And of course 3ed prints are not exactly the stiffest backing material either. So investigating a better protective covering / housing materials would also be worthwhile. If somebody else is trying to repeat this project. I am personally not sure what would be most suitable because there are a number of different options. Which will have different sets of pros / cons. And cost different amounts since this is a budget sensitive project. Just try to avoid the epoxy (if you can find something else better)n is just my main point here, because your standard epoxy will always shrink.

[@frogjmon]

I'd also add atlsast one schotky diode to prevent backflow into the cells, commercially available panels come with one diode per panel but that's probably overkill for something like this.

[@MrMcPeppr]

@@frogjmon unlike an inductive load like a motor, the schotky Diodes in PV-Modules serve to prevent single shaded or broken cells from running in reverse breakdown, which happens in Strings of round about 24 cells (24 * V_forward > 1 * V_revbreakdown. Only applies to crystalline cells.

[@Vince-yr1hl]

Me: Sees the video isn't sponsored by JLCPCB My brain: *panik*

[@wificitranet7232]

You from Indonesian?

[@fartquad326]

@@wificitranet7232 He's just well-versed in memes

[@Mavi222]

It was interesting watching the PLA frames bend through the time of the project, lol. Great job though!

[@fleshTH]

A hinge system would make it nearly perfect. DIY is definitely the winner here.

[@greatscottlab]

Yep, I acutally tried that. But it is really hard to design. At least for me.

[@jancoow]

And not use PLA for project with a lot of heat :) It will warp!

[@david-sv3kg]

@@greatscottlab you are too humble. shorten up the taping leads and use small copper braid... Doesn't even need to be insulated and could run uninsulated in the fabric hinges--which are a great idea themselves. I would rubberize one side of the fabric (or use a rubberized or some type of water resistant cushioned fabric) to help with moisture resistance. That's already a pretty big set of cells.

[@chrisbritton8326]

DIY is the winner. It's not only just about money. It is about understanding how things work and how to make them better. Thank you for the video.

[@cnrb]

if you are doing a protable solar panel, I would suggest using Maxeon C60 flexible cells. The cells you are using are more suitable for fixed panels (with tempered glass). Also in order to harvest maximum energy output of the cell you need to keep it in the most efficient voltage range. Mppt chatger would be a better option instead of buck boost converter. Last thing is I don't think the cells you are using have any problem, I wouldn't expect you to get more than half of its rated power in germany without pointing the cell directly towards sun. 4.2W output is measured only in 1000w/m2 irradiance with cell pointed directly to sun.

[@sympak]

+1 for the C60 cells. 21% efficient and a reasonable ish price

[@FreedomAirguns]

Cells are tested in labs under 1200 watt bulbs at 25°C, reason for the "wrong" readings. Plus, the epoxy can get opaque and yellowish with time if it's not UV resistant and can't hold the stress of time as it would probably get darker before the panel begins to wear out (if it's under a constant exposure). Should be good for the usage you have in mind though.

[@xziegenbauer3732]

It's 1000W/m^2 but besides that I completely agree with you

[@davidesteban8159]

And dont forget the angle of cell vs. Sun Unless your garden is located at terrestrial Equator you should tilt your cell according the Sun angle, which depends on latitude, day in year and local suntime Next proyect could be an automatic two-axis positioner with those factors in mind

[@3dw3dw]

The problem I had with epoxy was the expansion and contraction was breaking my cells. That was when I tried to encapsulate them to glass. I think it is better to encapsulate each cell individually. Good Job!

[@Luke-san]

I only have 1 quick solution that seems to work against the yellowing stuff. Most of those cheap garden lights use those yellowing cells which become useless after a couple of months. I also have a 6V panel that is covered in epoxy and the same thing happened. Sanded all of them to make them ok again but same thing yellowing started again after a month or so. Now I cover them with helicopter tape. The stuff they use to for example protect bike frames. You can get that stuff for a couple of euro. I just cut it and stick it over the cell after I make it clear again. If I now buy new solar stuff which uses those cell I immediately stick it on. The 6V cell is still clear now like all of my other 'toys' after being 3 years in the elements. I might replace the aging tape next year but that is just a 5 minute job.

[@MrKillswitch88]

This is why this plastic crap never lasts in the long run even if it is UV stable there is always mechanical wear and scratching from normal uses that does them in. I always preferred rigid panels with all this in mind.

[@db1tau75]

On plain USB 5V, most phones limit the charging current to way below 2A. You saw it when you connected the buck/boost converter to your power supply and it was still only charging with 1.4A. But things change with QC (9V 1.8A) or even USB-C PD (5V 3A). Always test with an empty phone battery. The phone limits the charging to below 5W when the battery reaches 80%++

[@acosgun]

I've made a similar solar charger using 10 solar panels(89 mm x 145 mm for each panel) and a 5v usb converter, and output current was about 1,5 amps in mid day (between 11:00 and 16:00). My solution for hinge mechanism was to use duct tape, it wasn't beautiful but functional. Duct tape can be used for both fabric and hinge use, if anyone is interested I can share the pictures.

[@sofa-lofa4241]

Good old duct tape.... Always saves the day! Nice use of my favourite tech. solution

[@CreatorWorkshop1]

Share it

[@acosgun]

@ScrotNimation I seriously considered buying a sewing machine, but duct tape was a short term solution. I had a 1 week bicycle tour coming in a short time, and went for the quick&dirty solution :)

[@acosgun]

@@williamlivingston2929 I will definetly shoot a video for that, currently waiting for the aliexpress shipments. My friend "confisticaded" my solar panels:)

[@BRUXXUS]

I really love those little buck/boost modules. Super handy for all sorts of projects!

[@greatscottlab]

Agreed!

[@Aman-gn1oz]

That 36 cell frame failed because the epoxy resin you used was for small resin art there is different resin for large projects because if you use small art resin for big project poured all at once it will Burst when it hardens.

[@MrKillswitch88]

Plus there was nothing at all to back the panel allowing it all to sag and eventually fall out of the frame.

[@Aman-gn1oz]

@@MrKillswitch88 yupp

[@davidgunther8428]

12V Solar system panels work well with car USB chargers! The nominal panel voltage is 18V, and the Voc is under the 24V that most car chargers work up to. You can mix and match panel and charger wattage - 5V only (5-12W) or USB power delivery (10-60W). The main problem is no MPPT functionality, so a temporary shadow will collapse the panel output voltage.

[@MrKillswitch88]

A lot of those only go up to 1.5a max and few really put that much on each port when all the ports are in use. The same applies to these overpriced yuppie panels that look nice but rarely deliver regardless of the latitude as some perform like crap even on a good day in Mexico and Spain. A Good one will put out around 2 amps per port and not sag when both ports are in use.

[@davidgunther8428]

@@MrKillswitch88 I mean panels usually made for charging 12V lead acid battery systems. I have a 25W panel that puts out 25W. It was $40.

[@MrKillswitch88]

@@davidgunther8428 People have been using panels for charging 24v and 48v systems running lithium batteries for a decade or some for homes and businesses. I honestly don't like lead acid batteires as they are bread and eggs that they don't have the best shelf life in the long run. I got lithium packs that are 15+ years old that still hold decent charge.

[@davidgunther8428]

@@MrKillswitch88 I didn't say I was using lead acid batteries, I said the "12V system nominal" (17V nominal) panels were made for lead acid systems.

[@MrKillswitch88]

@@davidgunther8428 ok....

[@flyingdeer3963]

That is really awesome. I also would love to see a MPPT-Circuit explained from you. And a question remaines, how heavily was the Current influenced by laying the Panels flat to the Table? Maybe they got that rating by facing the panel directly to the sun?

[@Tri_Nitro]

I've also tried to make a portable solar charger some time ago using small 5V epoxy coated solar cells. I tried to reuse an old solar charger enclosure, as its electronic components were mounted on a separate part, which could easily be slipped out, but not salvaged nor repaired- it was all coated in resin (which, I must say, made it very durable, but not until the charging circuitry and battery worn out). I encountered the same problem as you did (specs far lower than advertised), so I would get a maximum of 2 watts of power, while the original charger had somewhere around 5 watts - and it was older tech, so still impressive for such a small form factor. I think that without some built-in energy storage like a supercapacitor or battery using the solar cells alone for power is rather unstable, and adding that would allow to trickle charge even during overcast or winter conditions.

[@blackturbine]

My mom brought home broken solar night lights from work so i built origami style one It was great to charge my old phone but school bullies smashed it I guess they don't like renewable energy sources

[@sarimbinwaseem]

can't you give them a smash back with a high voltage teaser or something that they will remeber it forever...

[@blackturbine]

@@sarimbinwaseem karma struck back hard on them One came crawling to my house (broke, unwashed, smelling like death) to ask if my car is still on sale I did the ultimate sike on him

[@vasileiospgr]

0:57 Isn't that the phone says to the charger how much Amps it needs the charger to give?? connecting a different usb device, draws different Amps, that's not how much Amps the Charger can give but how much Amps the device asks at the moment. ??

[@phizicks]

I'm a DJ and have turntables, my initial thoughts of you spreading the epoxy was to pour it on and have something spin the cell slowly to spread it out but if the epoxy hardened slowly, it'll even itself out eventually unless super viscous.

[@Jesusiscomingsoon613]

Braided grounding straps for hinges?

[@greatscottlab]

Hmmmm possible

[@sofa-lofa4241]

I was thinking the same Kevin, I think I would use thin braided copper with heatshrink tube, the ends could be screwed to the frames, solder the connection and cover with epoxy resin or similar

[@qaiserbozdar1542]

GreatScott I had developed that module for my mobile in my engineering college as a mini project but I had used single solar panel of 7 volt and 2 amp and used a Linear regulator lm7805. It was good and fun.

[@musa4539]

I was just thinking of buying one or building one myself from solar cells but couldn't decide, found this video just in time!

[@Arnitikos]

I'm a senior ee student and I can't wait to be independently and start my own projects. Thanks!

[@Thomas-yf3ty]

Would be cool if you would do an episode of DIY or buy MPPT's and hook your own MPPT to these cells. I have always been interested in how MPPT's could been made and what results you could expect.

[@diegoscala4505]

No one: GreatScott: Electric cars DIY vs Buy

[@TypicalNerds]

Please tell me that you know that usb extenders limit current to 500ma (at least in my experience)

[@toekie3352]

The hinges was what i didnt get when you showed the cases being printed! its an easy fix to either print extra hinges or better, incorporate hinges in the initial disign. or just use a sheet of thick, stronger fabric, isoloate the sunpanels on the back and use something like velcro to put them on the fabric. Makes it modulair and the fabric is the hinge like the one you bought.

[@Sidea-hv7df]

Can you please make a video on how mobile charger works

[@jimlagraff4989]

I finally decided to build one of these months ago. Newbie orders 50 cells at a great price and then realizes each cell needs 5 tabs soldered from end to end. Newbie not start soldering yet!

[@sofa-lofa4241]

Newbie will be very good at soldering tab wires by the end of the build! Good luck

[@Ally9696_SocialMedia]

Huge fan from India, planning this while currently watching

[@mikhapichkhadze2885]

i was searching for a such of video and i really liked it, it is what i needed for my project thank you.

[@zaraohaio1828]

super good finally a fluffy friendly project a simple SysAdmin can understand, good job

[@circuitguru4554]

Hello! I really love your channel GreatScott! I have decided to ask a question here because You seem like a professional, and everyone, feel free to answer is question I have been wondering. How are current and voltage different, and does voltage create current. This is been a question that online websites cannot answer. Thank You

[@CrazyNerdInventor]

Current is the flow of charged partials such as electrons. Voltage is the force that pushes the charged partials. Electrons will only flow if there is some force pushing them. This means that current will only flow through something if there is a voltage across it that pushes the current through it. For more details I highly recommend watching ElectroBoom's 101 series.

[@circuitguru4554]

Crazy Nerd Inventor Ohh, thanks so much, yeah, I love Electrobooms videos, but I will checkout the video series

[@allenlutins]

Another way to think of voltage and current is an analogy with flowing water, where voltage is the amount of water, and current is, well, current (speed/power of the flow)! For example, think of a very wide, but very shallow river - this is the equivalent of high voltage with low current, like electrostatic discharge (the zap you get when when you touch your car's chassis in the winter, or after scuffing your feet on a rug), which typically measures in excess of 3,000 volts, and often as much as 20,000-30,000 volts, but at *very* low current. The shallow river, although composed of lots of water, will not sweep you off your feet :)

[@circuitguru4554]

allen lutins Good Analogy! I had never thought of it that way, and thanks a lot. I am pretty new to Electronics, and this really helped! :)

[@Thasneem]

This channel is awesome for computer engineers ❤️

[@andrewodonohue8729]

While the DIY option is the clear winner for price to performance, I feel like the nicely backpack carryable nature and small form factor of the buy makes it a clear winner for practical use

[@markys441]

Awesome project, as always. I'm wondering if you can build your own MPPT? It would be for sure interesting and many people would welcome this project :) Thanks for your work!

[@PauloLessa01]

At about 3,5v or less the buck boost output voltage rises up to its maximum (30v or more) and it starts consuming an big amount of current from the source, have you experienced something like this ?

[@birdpump]

Hello, when's the greenhouse part 2?

[@greatscottlab]

When it is done..........but I am currently working on it :-)

[@rxcreativity8441]

@@greatscottlab Make a drone

[@rxcreativity8441]

@ScrotNimation ok you do it first.

[@carsonplaysminecraft1018]

Hi great Scott I am 12 and super good with electronics! You inspire me and give me great ideas to try I have learned so much from you. Thank you!!

[@greatscottlab]

Glad to hear it!

[@DamianRene]

*CAUTION LONG READ* The use of a boost/buck converter will be not very efficient by some reasons with a 10s solar cells panel aiming for stable 5V output. The main problem is that the boost/buck module you used (only voltage regulated) can't limit output current (neither input) what will make the solar panel voltage fall to the minimum (as like when you short it to get Isc) if you connect the converter output to anything that does not regulate input current to avoid the converter sinking higher than your solar panel 'Imp'. (mobiles phones or power banks use to limit somewhere between '1.2A' to '1.5A' so that's why coincidentally it works aceptable in your experiment). In other words, if you connect the converter output to anything that will make the converter input sinking '>=' the solar panel Imp (maximum power point current), (I calculate somewhere around '2.4A Imp' as your cells show '2.8A Isc') the solar panel voltage will fall (clive voltage curve area) so the power the panel can generates will be much lower than the maximum it could if the current is limited to its MPP area (maximum power point). What will happen if you connect a device that can make the converter sink more than you solar panel 'Imp'? (imagine you connect a device that sinks 3A at 5V) you solar panel Vmp is around 5V, great, but the Imp is around 2.4A, nothing stops the converter to try to sink 3A from you solar panel, so the converter will try to sink 3A and will makes you solar panel voltage to fall (according to its curve) upon 0V once it reaches 2.8A, wasting a high amount of power the solar panel can produce. Of course the converter won't ever output 5V 3A, but will still trying to output 5V, so if the device can't also limit current below 3A, it will make converter output voltage to fall below 5V trying to get 3A and similar to the converter, reset itself once the voltage is too low. And what is happening on the converter? If they have a minimum operative voltage, why are they still apparently working if the solar panel is outputing near 0V? Well indeed the own converter casually DON'T let the solar panel reach 0V, because while trying to sink 3A from your panel, once the voltage falls outside its operating voltage (maybe anything below 3v) it will RESET, stop sinking current for an instant, so the solar panel will recover Voc (~5.5V) for an instant making the converter again trying to sink 3A and then voltage fall again instantly to ~0V. This process repeat itself continuously an it is smoothed by converter input capacitors. The practical conclusion is that you see that somehow it works but the power you will get from your panel will be much lower than the maximum it can output if its current can be limited exactly or close its 'Imp'. *IMPORTANT: all these calculations take into account your solar panel is always at maximum solar conditions ('2.8A Isc' in your experiment), when the solar intensity will be lower, you will have the problem of the reseting phenomenon (panel going close 0V) at less converter output current and the efficiency you will get with the converter will be extremely low. The main issue here is the efficiency of your system. Not only because buck/boost converters units (~80% maximum efficiency) are double inefficient (two transistors / diodes instead of one) than single buck or boost converters (~90% maximum efficiency). It is because you need a converter that can "see" if the solar panel voltage is below its Vmp and stop sinking more current to get its maximum power available at that solar intensity, and that's called the famous MAXIMUM POWER POINT TRACKING (MPPT) converter. MPPT controllers are expensive and not really available for small power solar panels. Those you can find as 5V, 6V or 12V MPPT (2A - 5A) modules are not real MPPT, they just stop sinking more current for a fixed voltage (5V, 6V, 12V typically), so we could call them FMPP (fixed maximum power point) converters. Although they can't track the solar panel actual Vmp, this value does not change so much in direct sunlight, independently the sun inclination, and rounds 0.5V per cell. What I think it is a better alternative solution? Just using a BOOST converter unit. If the output voltage is configured at 5V it won't regulate for a higher input voltage, but the solar panel with a blocking diode can't output more than 5.3V in any case, what is completely inside the maximum voltage window on 5V USB specifications (5.5V max). It will have the same bad behaviour at output currents close or higher the solar panel Imp, but the converter has half the power loses than a boost/buck unit.

[@MrKillswitch88]

This is why all those fancy but otherwise junk foldables rarely work as advertised, there are some panels out there just for usb use that don't have anything between the panel and the device.

[@MCsCreations]

Pretty fantastic work, dude! 😃 For a crude version it works amazingly! Stay safe there! 🖖😊

[@ericoudammerveld424]

Awesome project again! Consider replacing the small wires linking the panels with two hinges. There should be more electromechanical modules, like hinges.

[@JS-qh9vk]

Love your videos 👍👍👍, I've also built my own solar USB charger out of some solar cells and one 12v to 5 v car adapter. It works very well.

[@tomf3150]

ballbearings make perfect rotating contacts. Simply 3D print sturdy hinges, add the bearings and axles, Vout on the cage, Vin on the axle, and done.

[@victorgalvez927]

wow genius idea!

[@barryrudolph9542]

Considering the time and materials you already invested and the additional time and materials you will need to make your charger robust I don't think DIY is really the winner.

[@datalorian]

Agreed

[@uwezimmermann5427]

Epoxy resin is normally too unflexible - differences in thermal expansion between the resin and your cells will most probably crack the cells. Polyurethane solidifies into a more forgiving coating.

[@gurudattapanda]

I think mostly these solar panels provide too less than what is being advertising. Better to use Hetrojunction 28% Efficiency High Grade Solar Panel which is only Made in Europe and mostly used in Space application. But yeah, that is the expensive part. The economic side, one should check the brand and manufacturer reputation before buying them. Scott is right, the wattage promised never achived, I have tried it too.

[@jakegarrett8109]

Yeah I’ve only seen one panel or cell ever hit even close to spec (and it went above spec pretty consistently). Almost all of them are way under what they are rated. Really sucks when you are trying to design for a specific load and it drives the size of your design based on an incorrect and made up marketing rating that is simply impossible so then you have to completely redesign because of fake specifications...

[@akshaypohankar3784]

Just in time thank you for your video. One question why didn't you use mppt chips for maximum efficiency For example cN3065 sunny buddy from sparkfun

[@koton_bads]

Your voice is therapeutic

[@PCbolt17]

First time DIY winner

[@woohooman-fl9vq]

5:50 *Electroboom handcrank phone charger*

[@takumifujiwara7291]

😂

[@fallknight5405]

Defiantly DIY,I made one of these years ago with corrugated plastic as backing an sticky tape over the cell's, it works a dream

[@ldzonis4568]

Diy or buy are my fav type of vids

[@circuitguru4554]

When I get the notification that GreatScott Uploads when I wake up, I feel so happy and pleased! I have followed your channel since 200 Subscribers, and I knew that you would become amazing like this. Keep Uploading!

[@greatscottlab]

Thanks 😁

[@forstig]

Great Project Idea. I also built a Solar Charger a year ago and it was very easy and is till now usefull. Can recommend it.

[@ajaxyu7815]

Would your consider adding a MPPT module?

[@Psychosapiens]

DIY is the winner if you never leave the garden. I have exactly the same issues. I using my DIY for years. and finally got the exact same solar panels that is showing up here. I can get 1.5 amp from advertised 14W. the overall for me is to buy on. in this case DIY lose. Great video. thanks for the efforts. it was very helpful for me.

[@NonnofYobiznes]

You: Ve'll determine what's better, DIY or buy. Me: OK You: 3D printer Me: buy buy buy

[@a1nelson]

What is the advantage of using solar cell flat wire instead of garden-variety round copper wire? It doesn’t look like the flat is easier to solder, and the flat also appears to be more fragile. I don’t have any flat wire to measure the cross-section, but it seems like the flat would have higher resistance - something that would become more important as the string gets longer. I have some solar cells and have been wanting to do a project like this for a while, so I’d really like to know which one to choose.

[@diegoG21]

Maybe I'm wrong, but as far as I remember from my electronic knowledge about smartphones, you need to have a either snapdragon/exynox chipset which accepts higher currents for charging. Without that the phone caps the current to less than 2.0 A at most for safety reasons.

[@tedhancock68]

Very important to have a USB load tester for this experiment. I wouldn't introduce a phone until the beta testing phase.

[@davidgunther8428]

All recent major phones have a fast charge ability, but usually uses 9V or higher for >10W charge rates. Getting large currents through a USB cable/connectors is inefficient.

[@diegoG21]

@@davidgunther8428 I didn't explain myself properly sorry, Yeah that's why I try to say when talk about a Chipset capable of handling these currents. For conventional, fast and super fast charge. The phone I see on the vid (Galaxy S4, old generations of a Jx or Ax) is fairly old and I can bet it can't handle something like 2.5A

[@davidgunther8428]

@@diegoG21 my S10 charges at 15W max, but that's not at 5V input, it's 9V, so the current is about 1.7A. Maybe you are mainly talking about the power level older phones charge at, not specifically the current? Yes, a S4 isn't going to be able to accept charge at a high rate. Most newer phones do (past 2-3 years) but they need a higher voltage source and proper data signaling to let them know what they're working with.

[@tedhancock68]

@@davidgunther8428 My iPhone 11 Pro Max charges at a confirmed 24 watts when low. It tries very hard to pull the maximum 3A from 9V. It won't shift to 12v since it can't max out 9v. In other words, without USB-C PD, neither the "buy" or "DIY" option is relevant. This is ironic as USB-C is his latest love.

[@prince_9599]

Finally a new sponsor

[@lauriekimani]

Jlcpcb:finally a worthy opponent. Our battle will be legendary.

[@tvishmaychoudhary69]

Diode gone wild did a pretty good video of it

[@Slushee]

Ohh I watch him too! What's the video? I haven't seen it!

[@tvishmaychoudhary69]

@@Slushee kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooe4dqGipquArMU There you go

[@caked3953]

I once thougt about the same. Then I did my calculations and got a number about 10w Paneel to charge a phone enough for a normal use ( everything lower limits the user). I compared different products and bought a 10w paneel, a direct usb controller thing and a power box. The paneel with controller costet togheter 15€, and the bower box because I think that when you want to get the macimum out of sun you have to use all of it, place the paneel with battery strategely and wait for it to collect. It works extreamly well and the small paneel fits easyly in travel luggage. It looks a bit bad but I really like it The DIY setup in the video is a bit overdoing it, but on the other hand it will charge with worse weather conditions! still very briddle design ^^

[@V1P3RSlab]

what about using a flex flat cable? what do you think?

[@jonasstahl9826]

Ich finde die Buy Variante wesentlich besser, klar hat deine Konstruktion mehr Leistung, ist dafür aber wesentlich größer und wird die mechanische Belastung beim Transport in einem Rucksack kaum überleben. Außerdem wird die höhere Leistung nur bei einem starken Abfall der Spannung erreicht, wodurch die Leistung nicht zum aufladen genutzt werden kann. Dennoch ein interressante Video😃

[@kaushikpatel5379]

Which wire use in solar panel

[@rosebiswas758]

My favourite guy Handwriting is awesome

[@pedrobaco563]

Oh, the joy of soldering individual solar cells and encapsulation... Is that resin good with solar exposure, as i recalled that was one important aspect to choose the product.

[@legominimovieproductions]

but what was the reason that some of the printed frames are bend so much? Did they bent trough the heat of the epoxy drying out?

[@Kerbtree]

@GreatScott! - one little problem with DIY - your panel's putting out voltages that are out of USB spec. USB2 spec minimum is 4.4v (26W@3.7 fails this), USB3 spec minimum is 4.45(22W@4.4 fails this in addition to 26W@3.7).

[@ironsidemaster3038]

A boost/buck converter should be able to fix that!

[@Alex-nl5cy]

The stitches on that fabric are most likely purely ornamental, stuff like that is usually held together with glue.

[@greatscottlab]

Could be

[@robosapien314]

I have a question for the community: I want to drive a small motor with a solar panel. Do I need I diode to prevent the panel from current "flowing back" from the motor? Thanks in advance

[@robosapien314]

@@thenistthedev thanks for your answer. The panel don't have a control circuit, but maybe I just add a simple diode. I was just a bit confused because I could't find any advice what happpens if a solar panel acts as a current consumer

[@thenistthedev]

well adding one wont hurt so do it, even if it doesnt mean anything extra safety measure always a good thing

[@robosapien314]

@@thenistthedev ok, thank you again. Have a nice day

[@raykent3211]

Many consumer panels will have have a diode built in for reverse polarity protection. If yours doesn't I'd play safe and add a diode in series with the output. Btw, in case you don't know, a silicon diode will drop about 0.6V whereas a Schottky diode is nearer 0.3. So you want a Schottky if your running at low voltage. I assume you're using a dc brushed motor. When driving anything involving a coil from dc it's a good idea to put an ordinary silicon diode across the terminals that will conduct if the polarity switches momentarily, which it does. I've made a few single coil motors and run them direct from small solar panels without problems. But if I hadn't put the back-biased diode across the coil I might have wrecked something. Maybe you know that, if not let me know and I'll say more.

[@robosapien314]

@@raykent3211 no, I don't really know what a back-based diode is, but thank you for the long and precise answer

[@romaric3545]

GreatScott: Stay creative... Me: I don't even have a multimeter :D Great video!

[@Correalian]

The blue panel that was bent, was that from sort of heat from the resin causing it to warp or just a accidental drop?

[@Stefano91ste]

Awesome project!

[@leonelbarrientos995]

I like it when real experts debunk advertising hahaha

[@hugodeandres1497]

Great video as always. I have already ordered some solar cells to do a similar project myself. I see you used tab wire all the way the cell (3:57) and only part of it (5:26) is there any difference or I can just solder it partly? Most people solder it all the ways but I don’t know if it is really necessary

[@LIOTBs]

Did you build those load moduals or where did you purchase them? If you made them do you have plans for them or a video on who you build them?

[@aruntoms5583]

If you haven't figured why the multimeter was showing a very less short circuit current value when tested on a single solar cell, then its due to the inability of most multimeters to measure accurate current values in very low voltage like 0.5 volts. If you connect 20 of them in series and measure the short circuit current in bright sunlight then it will show a current reading very close to the manufacturer specification.

[@TheHellis]

3:46 so you didn't have solder before. Nice to hear that you finally bought solder. Good job :-D

[@MrMcPeppr]

actually the tab wires already have enough solder

[@kozmaz87]

If the phone limited the charging should you not have tested the commercial version with the fan too?

[@ladmad9196]

did you check if the epoxy resin block UV light?

[@SwervingLemon]

I have to ask - did you try your pre-made version on your load bank?

[@iiilllii140]

Connecting the solar panel via a buck boost converter to the smartphone, isn't it required to have a tp4056 over/discharge protection module? Or not, because it is handled inside the smartphone, itself? Should I add one?

[@AaronHendu]

Now I want to go test the Coleman one I've had for a few years now...I even used it when I was homeless for awhile as my only way to charge my phone. I'd just go sit in the sun and read a book or something while it charged. The one I have also has a 12V output, though I have never found a use for that...yet. I think mine was also listed as 15W...so my guess is it only outputs 1ish amps at 5V, like yours does.

[@tedhancock68]

People take the voltage rating on panels WAY too seriously. I have found they behave like LED drivers. The open circuit voltage is super, scary high and when you give a small load, cut in half. Give it a big load, like a power bank and the voltage is cut in half again. I've been playing with 100w panels recently and have not needed charge controllers in most cases.

[@neomohammed]

Looking forward to seeing the more improved version of solar charge system

[@TOMKATPEDALS]

Could add a snap together hinge in the 3D print

[@Neobit_88]

Solar cells = 30€ Buck converder =1,50€ Filament =? Epoxy =? All in all the DIY version is much expensive as the comical one.

[@yugo000]

10:14

[@shadowjack1214]

its 30 cells 30€, he use 10

[@axelthor1013]

No one: GreatScott: BAMBOOZLED? FAULTY SETUP?

[@BillyNoMates1974]

Good test but I do wonder why you used a buck boost converter when only 5 volts is needed. My solar backpack uses several power Zener diodes across the output at 5.1 volts (before the Schottky diode for low drop out blocking). Only wastes power when the solar panels are in full daylight and not charging anything.

[@Gastell0]

8:37 - as much as I expect the liquid metal to get there by itself, wouldn't it yield better or more consistent result if you had solder between two surfaces, instead of top of just one of them?

[@blacknoir2404]

It would be nice if you could go over the process of converting a buck regulator into a constant current driver. For example a driver ic like the lm2596s-adj and adding a current sense resistor and screwing with the feedback pin

[@gianluca458]

Please GreatScott can you help me? I already make such a project with 4 solar panels (2.5w 5V 500 mA). In total i have 10 watt. I connected the boost converter directly to the solar panels and with no load seems to work but with the load something strange happens: The output voltage of the boost converter drops to 3V and the IC (XL6009) heast up so much. What is the problem? Please help. (I'm italian 15 years old, exuse me for eventual bad english)

[@greatscottlab]

What is the load? Seems like you overloaded it and the input voltage broke down to values where the boost converter does not work anymore. Or you drew too much current and the boost converter is done for.

[@gianluca458]

The boost converter is 4A max it works from 5V to 30V. With a 14V 5W light bulb on the output of the boost converter, the voltage drops... I have no idea of why... The output current of the solar panels is 2A at 5.6V max. The sun is very shiny. But i want to attach a different load to it instead of the charging phone. The light bulb was a test and it is only 5 watts i don't know why it doesn't work... I will try with the phone and see if it works whit it. And you make very great videos! I Watched a lot of them... I love electronics and... I'M CREATIVE! 😉

[@tedhancock68]

@@gianluca458 I don't do any testing with light bulbs. They have a tendency to draw much more power than rated. They typically don't have any limits. They just get brighter and hotter until they burn out. First charge a battery, then use your light. Batteries make a great buffer/controller for solar projects. They regulate the voltage and never draw more power than their rating.

[@gianluca458]

@@tedhancock68 Well at the moment i don't have a solar charge controller and the solar panels can't charge my battery for now. I notice that 500 mA is the short circuit current of the solar panel, but not the current that it can substain at 5V... So i calculated that instead of 10w, my setup is only 5W - 6W. I Also tested it with other loads but almost every load i attached the voltage drops on the output... I think that this is normal because in effect, solar panels are not made for be used directly with the load connected... I will wait for a solar charge controller... In this video it works because the solar cells are way much better than mine and the stepped up/down voltage is very close to the solar panels voltage... Yeah, in electronics Everything needs to be precise or... Nothing will work! And when i purchase the solar panels on amazon it says that it is 5v 500 mA but it seems to be fake... Or maybe something is wrong in my setup... Great Scott's solar cells have a way much higher short circuit current and they are as big as my cells... My 4 cells cost me 34€ i don't know maybe i made some mistakes... My measured 500 mAh short circuit current is under a super shiny sun... 😂 (I live in Italy, Sicily)

[@tedhancock68]

@@gianluca458 As others have noted, the performance of solar panels is typically 50% of rating. I would expect your circuit to collapse at 5w output, in full Italian sun.

[@foureyedchick]

3:47: Paul from Mr Carlson's lab also pronounces "solder" as "solder" rather than "soder", as everybody else does.

[@ceptimus]

The sunpower C60 solar cells are the ones to go for. Much stronger mechanically - still fragile, but stronger than the ones you used. All the connections are on the back, which makes wiring them up easier. They have a higher output - you get five amps in strong sunlight at maximum power. Open circuit voltage is a little higher - just over 0.6V. Size is 125mm x 125mm. You can find them on Ali Express. I've used them to build solar-powered radio control planes - no batteries on board at all. Even when the sun goes behind a cloud, or the plane is inverted, there is still enough power from ambient light to work the receiver and servos. An on-board Arduino monitors the voltage and controls the motor speed controller so that the voltage is never pulled too low to cause reception problems. Ten or twelve cells in series seems to be the sweet spot for adequate power with a reasonably-sized model.