60. Filling Holes in Our Boat & Changing the Cutlass Bearing | Learning the Lines - DIY Sailing

[@laceyj1820]

Do what’s best for you, I totally understand! A month into our ownership of our own E37, and if we attempted to fix it all we would never set sail. The blisters alone took us two solid weeks to repair, which turns out to be an issue with Endeavours built in the late 70s and 80s. Glad to see you didn’t have blistering, it’s a miracle in its self! Love your videos, thanks for sharing!

[@garye4145]

I am really impressed with how well you both work well with each other. You will know your boat inside and out when all is done. Way to go and take care.

[@keithgilchrist]

Great explanation of grounding on a boat! Very interesting.

[@geraldrichardson7252]

Your work is good! And you're reasoning is sound. It's your lives at stake,out on the open seas, no one can do better than your own intuition. I enjoy watching. Thank you!

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you for watching! :)

[@brianpercival1829]

Good idea press fitting the bearing using a bolt washers and nut. Nice graphic too. I think you are doing the right thing. That strut may last years yet. Still looks solid. Cracks and splits, time to change.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for the feedback, Brian!

[@drwindsurf]

Wow! That was a lot of corrosion! I think your solution looks good - time will tell. Thank you for another great video :)

[@LearningtheLines]

Yes, hoping proper grounding and anodes will help prevent further corrosion.

[@astrodiver1]

Wow you even made a visual of the cutlass! If anyone disagrees with your assessment they better have their own visual. The ghost wheel boat is coming along!

[@LearningtheLines]

Haha got to have the visuals to explain your point 🤣

[@kee22mah]

Great to see you guys on the video link with Sailing Uma. Glad that you have made contact, I think I mentioned Uma to you a few months back. Like others have said - for my twopenneth - think you made the right choice re the strut particularly with the expected lower usage with electric. As you say just keep an eye on it, replacing the strut would be quite a job. Mike

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for watching, Mike! Dan and Kika are great. It's been fun having them relatively close. We've been able to see them in person a few times now.

[@scottlafave8067]

Nice job, should last for awhile. Caribbean here you come.

[@Submanca]

Looks great to me I think you made the right choice! To me if your boat is struck by lightning I don't think you have to worry about what the grounding plate is made of. I do think you are right just to put on a new one.

[@LearningtheLines]

Lol yeah it's probably going to suck regardless, but whatever we can do to make it suck less.

[@alanlott5553]

Considering what you had to work with, nice job on the bearing!

[@SailingArgo]

Love your channel. Thanks for sharing👍

[@cliffordblack3552]

Great job and the right decision on the bearing! I Liked the use of the bolt and washers! Like I said on Friday's video I use them to remove and install bears, much cheaper thean buying the fancy equipment for installing them! Can't to see how the fiberglassing turns out!

[@LearningtheLines]

Yes, that was definitely a good tip! Thanks for watching and providing advice!

[@patrickjohn9279]

Nice job on the bearing..im actually a mechanical engineer by trade, so in other words? That's a good safe fix..well done.

[@kevchard5214]

Don't worry about the bearing it will last a long while I have used the same technique on tractors impliments that are still in service. I can't Waite to see how you are going to mount the solar panels. I am really enjoying these videos you have come a long way with sail boat knowledge.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you. We are certainly learning a lot. Can't wait to get our solar panels in and arch built.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Seeing the actual size of the strut at the end of the bearing you made the best decision. Novel way to install the new bearing. Too bad you didn't have a 1/2" high torque drill to tighten the bolt up with. Sometimes when fitting up bearings like you did if you don't get it done completely on the first try you can't get the bearing to move again. You did great. Glad Randie is up and around. Don't push yourself young lady, come up to speed gradually. take care both of you and have a good week.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you! We ended up both getting sick. Trying to take it slow.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

OH NO! Been gone for four days and this is what happens. No more vacations for me. Get well soon and stay safe with the hurricanes hitting Florida now.

[@fudogwhisperer3590]

I think you're going to be fine. Hope for the best prepare for the worst, just have a plan in mind to get you where you need to go if it somehow fails.

[@LearningtheLines]

Yes, preparing for the worst is key when it comes to sailing.

[@rickt1866]

well done mate

[@hinahanta]

Have you guys thought of a catamaran or trimaran, what made you choose a mono hull over a multi hole?

[@islandonlinenews]

dude don't worry about it, looks great.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks!

[@SaltyEscape]

Hey Guys, I wanted to drop you a quick note, we really enjoy your channel. We have sold our house and are now living in an RV. We are planning on purchasing a sailboat in the next year to live on full time. We expect we will need to make repairs and your videos are very helpful. Thanks for all you do. Corey (KZbin Channel - Salty Escape)

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for the good vibes! Good luck with your search for a boat and with the channel.

[@ralphfield2364]

Hello, must say right or wrong, You both are doing a lot to get this sail boat ship shape. Interested in seeing if shaft fits correctly through that Cutlass bearing. Hopefully it will.

[@tiborkiss9186]

it`s coming together nicely! do you plan to connect the copper plate to some metal on the boat? How will you make the ground wire?

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you! We are going to bolt it on in a way that the bolts pass into the top section of our bilge compartment, just under the access doors in the saloon. The mast will be grounded with 4 AWG. Haven't decided on the main bus bar and how we will ground that.

[@mickmccrohon]

Not to criticize but are you worried about the alignment of the new bearing seeing as there was anything but a good consistent surface to seat it? And re: the f/g patch, would you get a stronger bond if you started laying down small circles of glass and getting bigger (diameter) with successive layers? Thanks for sharing.

[@LearningtheLines]

Luckily we haven't mounted our motor yet, so alignment shouldn't be an issue. The glassing technique is widely debated. We went with the method West Systems recommends in their instructional pamphlet.

[@johnstevens8185]

Lol.. notice how he's never wrong about anything . Lol. He's a first class dick .. your right in your comment.

[@danthelt1man]

Quick tip for working with fiberglass. Generously apply baby powder to any exposed skin before working with the glass,will greatly reduce itching.

[@finscreenname]

I have to say something but remember it's your boat and you can do as you wish. One of the reasons you needed so much torque to get the new bearing in is because you left the old sleeve no matter how thick it is. There is 2 issues with this. 1, you are putting a ton of stress from the inside of the barrel being the bearing is pushing out in a smaller diameter then it was designed for. 2, The bearing it's self is also being squeezed making it smaller. The first one, the prop shaft barrel in the strut pops and cracks. The second, at the very least you scar your prop shaft and you are replacing the bearing and the shaft. Or all the above. The strut cracks, the bearing spins and scars the prop shaft. Then you replace all 3. Your set screw design is fine as is the strut it's self from what I can see. But that is the reason there is set screws in the first place. The bearing is not supposed to go in that hard.

[@tpower7382]

great solution, should work out well. Cheers.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks!

[@michaeltillman1147]

Right or wrong I would have made the same call on the strut and "I think" that as long as you don't get a prop strike you should be fine. From my experience with piller block bearings I'd suggest using a drill that just fits through the threads for the set screws and cutting a very shallow dip to prevent your bearing from spinning. I know that's what the set screws are for but if you can prevent any POSSIBLE problem below the water.. 😎

[@jackrabbit5047]

Must be complicated to replace the strut and get the new one to have its hole centered and aligned just right for the shaft. Probably a good idea to cover the open ends of the cutless bearing when grinding fiberglass nearby to prevent any grit from getting in there which might score the shaft.

[@LearningtheLines]

Good point about covering the open ends. Thanks for mentioning that.

[@jimnickles2347]

Good Idea, considering that thin strut. That setup should last a Year or so. I would have done the same, seeing that strut.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks, Jim! First comment, wooo!

[@n.leeball3049]

You made the right decision! Now you know what you have and you will be more aware if there is a problem, but I don't expect that you will. I agree with someone down below that said it will be fine since you are using an electric motor. I believe the electric motor will be smoother and place less stress on this bearing and strut. Keep up the great work!

[@LearningtheLines]

Definitely something we are going to be watching. I'm hoping this expectation for the electric motor proves true. 👍

[@ralphfield2364]

Also, I have a question. Filling in all these holes in Your hull. Maybe I'm getting a little ahead of the story line here. Are You all installing an RO system or will You all be running port to port to refill potable water? Don't recall seeing anything on that subject.

[@SootHead]

It isn't optimal but it should be ok as long as your shaft alignment is good. I agree with your "engineering instincts" as to the set screws. That setup, and whatever weakness there might be in the strut from corrosion, will only be a significant problem relative to shaft misalignment and excessive friction at the bearing from it.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for the feedback, Jim!

[@flytech78]

U a motor boat or a sail boat? Ur doing good... keep on rolling...

[@daveedvalds3326]

I think you will be fine and it will last a long time concurrent improved corrosion protection you have incorporated.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks, Dave!

[@gavinmclean7129]

A small tip when you're looking at rigging find out where the commercial fishermen buy there cabal exactly the same just half the price as the marine store.

[@andypag1071]

When fibreglassing over the holes I notice you start with a large patch and apply smaller ones on top. Is it not better to do it the other way? Small ones first?

[@LearningtheLines]

So this is a much debated topic. We know people who do it both ways. We've even done it both ways. Lol. For our more recent glassing we have been using this method because it is what is recommended by West Systems.

[@andypag1071]

@@LearningtheLines thanks. Good to know.

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

What you are calling the "jacket" may be a repair sleeve installed because the strut hole was damaged. I think you did the right thing.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for watching!

[@robertmclennan5310]

good choice, you are fine!

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you!

[@boatworkstoday]

Thumbs up guys 😉😎.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks, Andy! 😊

[@chasemixon6327]

Shouldn't they start with the smallest piece of fiberglass and work out to the biggest? @10:18 I'm no expert, just made sense.

[@verynearlyaboutsailing8114]

That is a much debated question. The reason, as I understand it, for putting the largest first is to get the surface area of the first 'mechanical' bond as large as possible with a single piece of glass mat. The subsequent layers are chemical bonds and intrinsically stronger. - Although it does look counter intuitive.

[@andrewb4556]

Hi Very interesting, it will right 😉

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks, Andrew!

[@dugclrk]

I guess you have a smaller diameter shaft or was the rubber on the old bearing thicker? I agree, you would have had to replace the whole strut and this fix should last awhile. Gonna be nice to see the grounding plate installed. Y'all are getting better at this stuff all the time. You've come a long way. Thanks for taking us along. Stay safe.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you! Learning new things all the time. :)

[@bondvagabond42]

Don't sweat the strut, new electric motor is lower power, and lower fibration, with lower rotating mass. As long as you got the old jacket cleaned up on the inside, so it doesn't make a narrow spot in the new bearing, you should be fine.

[@warriors5779]

like the fix with the strut

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks!

[@VIPYROIV]

In SA we have a saying "maak a plan" and that's a dam good plan. :)

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks!

[@insAneTunA]

Find a guy with a TIG welder, let him build up some extra material on the strut with silicon bronze rods, grind it smooth and your done!!!

[@JohnnyRizon]

next time try putting the cutlass bearing in the freezer for a few hours to shrink it, it'll likely drop right in

[@scott7446]

Good on ya bro

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks bro! 🤙

[@richardbedard1245]

Considering what I paid for the copper coated ground rods for my electrical service I can imagine that copper plate set you back a few dollars. Someone will be diving under your boat to steal that plate!

[@nildefonsop]

Will you have a tender ? I’ve hip towed a 27’ Catalina using the tender with a 10 hp engine. Slow but works like a charm ! Engine was super dead and it was the inner passage in the keys so tough to sail but we got there (miami) so don’t sweat it ! You will hear that cutlas bearing go (if it does) it’s hard to miss then just make sure you have plenty of water or a Satphone to get you by !! Hek if you are in the miami bimini key west area I would love to go get you :) I’m not going to put my number on blast but dm me if you want. Happy sailing ..... and by the way take the community of experts with about 300lb of salt they mean well

[@LearningtheLines]

Lol thanks! We're hoping to do a meet up in that area once we're in the water. Would be great to meet you.

[@Lostinpassion910]

Taking all bets that friction joint lasts the life of the bearing... Great work Jordan & Randi!

[@LearningtheLines]

Taylor, loving your profile picture! Hope she is treating you well. Getting back in the water soon?

[@jessewigent9776]

2 things 1: something is thinner on the new bearing, either the rubber or the bronze sleeve. Did you test fit the new cutlass bearing on the shaft first? 2: I noticed that when repairing the structural laminate, you laminated the largest diameter piece of new glass in first, isn’t that opposite of “proper” methods? (See Boatworks Today YT channel) That said, I enjoy your channel and applaud your work ethic, willingness to do/try such extensive repairs yourself, and wish you the best

[@kevinfisher1345]

Yea I noticed about your #2 as well, normally see professionals do it the opposite way they did. But at least it looks like they put two bigger pieces over top all that.

[@davidkingston2546]

Pretty sure Mads at Sail Life does it the same way that it was done in this video. He has an explanation of it in one of his videos. Something about contact area.

[@kevinfisher1345]

Hmm interesting, have seen few of Mads videos but not subscribed. Still find it bit odd cause like said, normally see it done exact opposite by the professionals. Anyway they did put two ever larger ones as the very last, so Learning the Lines kinda of did both.

[@LearningtheLines]

I believe the new rubber is thinner. So for #2, this is a highly debated topic. We've done both in our series. Mads does the way we did in this video. The reason we switched to this method is that this is the method stated in the West System pamphlet. We do stick an extra layer on at the end that is the largest one though. Lol. We just want to be different. 😉

[@br5498]

What you did with the strut makes since...

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you!

[@billmead5052]

You two are rockin' it!!! Soon it will all pay off ⛵

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you! We can't wait. ⛵

[@Proost1]

"Fugly" in the background looks like a great place to "cook." (we just binged watched Breaking Bad...)

[@LearningtheLines]

Lol it certainly does. Luckily I dont think our neighbor is actually into that.

[@rcorn8114]

A little overkill equals peace of mind.

[@LearningtheLines]

I agree!

[@verynearlyaboutsailing8114]

I filled in a couple of holes where I took out some thru-hulls last year. I followed the West System instructions to the letter and put in the 'pucks' (as you mentioned). I did two more last weekend and again put in the thin epoxy pucks. But here's the thing, I have no idea what the puck does or why it is recommended - and it is quite fiddly to do. Most people don't seem to bother with doing this. Any idea what this puck thing is all about?

[@LearningtheLines]

I think it's just a filler to prevent there being an air void. You might be able to get away with filling it with thickened epoxy, chop strand, etc. However, keep in mind, we're not professionals.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Just about Sailing, I believe the puck is a filler to bind the inside and outside layers together and assure the space is filled. With the puck (assuming it's glass) epoxied in you have a better chance of not having a void in the old hole when you're. Anyone else have and idea?

[@verynearlyaboutsailing8114]

Both those answers make sense. I'm not a professional either. I think I will simply keep following the West System instructions if I ever have to do this again. Thanks.

[@Quarry4x4]

Will the shaft diameter change? Did you say nip it in the butt? I had a good laugh either way. Thanks. I click on your vid as soon as I see it arrive.

[@LearningtheLines]

Aw thank you! And yes, lol, a silly saying. The shaft diameter is going to be the same so the rubber in the new bearing is a bit thinner.

[@Quarry4x4]

I had only heard it as, nip it in the bud. Now I have something new.

[@oh-brothers]

Don't worry about the strut. You have an electric motor.... you won't be needing it !!!

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for watching!

[@peterengel7885]

Nothing wrong with that strut. thinner the better less resistance in the water.

[@CheersWarren]

Good job, you made a very reasonable decision on the strut and as somebody else pointed out with the low power and low usage electric drive what you done will last you for many years and not need to plan on replacing it for quite a while. Wow copper bonding strip! You will be one of the few boats out there with such a grounding strip let's hop it doesn't attract the lightening! I' sure many of the less friendly comments come from folks who don't watch all the way thru. Everyone should remember this is an old old boat, you got to do what you got to do! Keep up the good work and remember the goal is to go sailing ! Cheers Warren

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks, Warren! Wish we could send you a clip the didn't make it into Uma's ep 140. Kika was reading a question for us all to answer that ended with "Cheers Warren" and there was smiling, clapping, and "Warren!"s all the way around. Lol. We loved that you watch all of our videos. ♡ Unfortunately that was when Dan and Kika's camera had stopped running. :(

[@CheersWarren]

Jordan and Randi ,thanks for that 😎, I did see Kika used my question/comment about continuous running to discuss! FYI I have made 'Patterns' that are use to make the cast bronze struts and other parts . They are usually slightly tapered and 'streamlined' so will appear thinner at the ends. They are also usually made from 'Aluminum 954 Bronze' which is a very 'strong' and corrosion resistant metal alloy. I would not worry about that strut as long as it's still tight in hull. Cheers warren

[@LearningtheLines]

@@CheersWarren good to know! Thank you.

[@28cruzin]

Your new video does a much better job showing the deterioration of the strut. Has anyone explained how the strut would be repaired and not completely replaced? What you have done will last a very long time so don't feel you should have done the repair rather than the proceedure you used. The repair requires a welder and a saw. The strut remains in place and the carroded bearing carrier is sawn off following the shaft angle. A replacement carrier, basically a bronze pipe, is slid over the shaft and positioned where the old carrier was. Weld it to the strut stub, realign the shaft and you're done. This is not a job you would want to do yourself but any good boatyard has welders or has access to one who could do the replacement in 2 to 3 hours. Less if the prop is already removed and you do the shaft alignment. But that won't be neccessary for a long time. I think you made a good repair that will hold a long time. Fifty plus years on the water. I used to do all my own work, except aluminum welding.

[@LearningtheLines]

Awesome! This is good to hear. We plan on hauling her out again before any major ocean crossing to do any tweaking we need and this will be on our list.

[@z_actual]

that strut needs replacement You are always better off heating the shell on the strut as its bigger than the bearing and has more capacity to expand The grounding plate is for the old Loran system

[@bobstienke178]

With as little shaft run time you have with the electric propulsion, there is no need to replace the strut at this time. That’s my opinion and the two cents it’s worth.

[@VoyagingVoyager]

I agree, even if he was using a diesel regularly that strut in it's current condition is not going to be a problem.

[@LearningtheLines]

We hope so! Thanks for watching!

[@bobstienke178]

Learning the Lines, I wouldn’t miss your videos! Great job.

[@richarddickson3211]

Cutlass bearing 👍. Looking as good as it can be.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you!

[@lakehunter48p55]

keith fenner youtube channel, he bores struts. not always are they bored perfect center and also could of been bored off center if was bored after installed in the boat.

[@LearningtheLines]

Interesting. I hadn't thought of that.

[@mariemorrissey9378]

👍👍Thank for sharing your hard work and learning!

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for always watching! 😊

[@sethwilliamson]

If I understand your plans, you're only using your motor as a substitute for an oar and it is sized as such. That strut will be fine for low torque/power use in calm water for sure. No need to worry just yet. To be clear, it isn't because you have an electric motor. It is because you have a SMALL motor. An electric motor that was the same horsepower/wattage as a typical diesel for a boat your size would be more concerning, not less. Compare the torque curves of a 60 hp diesel and a 45 kW AC induction motor for example! The strut doesn't care or know what energy is turning the shaft. What matters is how much power/torque you're asking it to handle.

[@icelandviking1961]

If the strut is not an off the shelf easy to find item I would suggest you start keeping an eye out for one. Things seem to be cheaper when you are not desperate to get beck in the water. My two cents on the strut is it will last a long time if you sail the boat and last less time if you use it as a motorsailer. One thing about replacing the strut.....it will be a pain when you do it It’s you sweat everyday and your wallet so it’s easy for people to say do this or that from the comfort of the computer room.

[@kevinfisher1345]

good point. That way if they do run into problems they are not stuck somewhere with no replacement parts too.

[@LearningtheLines]

Definitely a good idea to find one before we need it.

[@kevinfisher1345]

Meh you made a judgement call. Good on you, so long as you are willing to face the possible consequences. Which you are so no issues. I might have considered the same option and choices given your scenario, and come up with the same resolution of making it work for now with plans to prolly replace the strut down the road. Hopefully it will last, guess you will find out.

[@kevinfisher1345]

You state your option is not inferior to original, which is not quite true. Basing on the old bearing is like its welded. That is flawed, while it might be somewhat semi attached by corrosion and a tight fit, it is not quite the same as welded. With some force the old bearing more than likely will free itself. And with still some amount of torque and friction (possible side lateration force if shaft is not perfectly aligned), it still possibly might happen down the road. Not sure how likely, but is possibility nonetheless and no it is not the same as being welded. I agree with your overall assessment, but think you are overstating imho. Minor details. But you will prolly get some flack about it being public viewable content.

[@LearningtheLines]

Honestly we were expecting much more flack than we seem to be getting. Lol. Weren't really looking forward to putting this one out. We may have overstated, but we don't really know. Just trying to explain the thought process I guess. Thanks for watching!

[@RangatiraRacing]

would be worth considering adding a pair of large disc zinc anodes on the strut to help with galvanic corrosion forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?attachments/prop-shaft-and-strut-jpg.49428/

[@LearningtheLines]

I've never seen those. We will have to look into that.

[@davidmilitz2275]

......any chance she is carrying your new little deck hand? :-)

[@johnstevens8185]

She 's just a porker. Big girl. Hadnt you noticed ?

[@LearningtheLines]

Not that kind of sick, David. Just a head cold we picked up traveling to and from Annapolis I think. Just hit me first for some reason. John, charming as always.

[@davidmilitz2275]

Glad to hear you are ok....love watching you guys rebuild this boat! Thanks again for your efforts!! Good Luck!

[@gabbymcdaniel4736]

John Stevens your disgusting.

[@okcpicker]

@@johnstevens8185 , that is very disrespectful and a very inaccurate statement. Randi is a very attractive young lady! nuff said.

[@shawnharris1946]

Really like your videos. Binge watched all of them this weekend. Good motivation for me to work on my boat.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks! Love hearing about people binge watching the episodes!

[@skwyrz1]

That bearing is going to be just fine,nice work and that strut is not really that bad.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks, Scott!

[@rl2109]

I think you did a fine job! I know you'll add sacrificial anodes to protect that new cutlass bearing! Good work!

[@LearningtheLines]

We definitely will! We have learned how important those really are.

[@TekTravis]

Guys I waited all week for just a 10 minute video 😥 please make longer videos not more. Thx ~T

[@LearningtheLines]

10 minutes is pretty typical for us, so more videos is just a bonus.

[@melee401]

Replacing that strut would not be at the top of my to do list at this point with everything going on. I would see if I could locate another one in a boat grave yard that could suffice along your journeys though and scarf it up should one surface. On that grounding issue,,,,,,,,,,,,,I never ground the mast or stanchions. The reason why is because lightening is attracted to the negative ions that stream up from the ground or sea. When you ground a mast those ions are then free to travel up the mast and invite a lightening strike. The tower companies have installed negative ion diffusers on many towers that look like a big ball of needles to diffuse the negative ions flowing up the tower with some success. However I am not going through all of that. To ground the mast on one hand insures an easy path if lightening hits but by doing so you are inviting the vessel to be hit by lightening, especially a fiberglass vessel. Metal hulls not so much because the negative ions that attract strikes freely flow through them into and up the mast anyway. So it really is a 6 of one and half a dozen of the other equation as to ground the mast in a fiberglass vessel or not. In any event,,,,,,,,,the RF ground for radio gear should cross a capacitor filter bridge. This helps with EMI and is a bit more insurance against a current spike damaging the gear. Lightening will take it all out no matter what. You can google "RF filter ground bridge" to see how to make one of those, they're easy peasie. The crew of Emerald Steel did a good youtube video some months back on these issues including the RF ground bridge and few other valuable tips on grounding issues to help nullify galvanic corrosion. That is really a worthwhile video to take in. All in all I think you have done as good a job as could be had given the whole of the equation. I would never lose any sleep any that strut issue. I would just keep my eye out for a reasonably priced replacement along the way. I liked the press you made pressing the new cutlass bearing into place. I've never needed to bother with one, I have just been able to use a 2X4 cushion and a dead blow mallet to drive em home. I doubt that would have worked with the issues you have there though.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks, Spencer. We definitely wanted to be as gentle as possible. We are definitely going to keep the strut in mind while we travel and keep our eyes open for a replacement so we have it when the time comes.

[@melee401]

Yes well I suppose a press is the way to go on a strut really. I have only replaced them in stern tubes, never any in a strut. More structural support with stern tubes. I have seen people mallet them in with struts but after seeing this I do not really think that is too sound a way to do things with them. So I'm learning here too. I know using a slide hammer and jaws to knock em out of stern tubes is frowned on though.

[@stringjeans7035]

Great job! Don't worry, be happy!

[@LearningtheLines]

😁

[@Wheelchair2011]

You did a damn good job with what you had..

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you! 😊

[@3DPDK]

Well done ... no really, well done. As long as all the plastic material was removed inside the old sleeve - brass to brass contact, the new sleeve went in with typical resistance. You usually don't think that last inch is going to make it. All that lateral force didn't seem to knock the old sleeve loose, and with the four set screws everything should stay solid. Definitely signs of corrosion and metal fatigue in the strut knuckle. It shouldn't actually be brass, usually the underwater fittings are "gun metal bronze" which means some iron was mixed in to the amalgamate. Your strut will probably last longer than you think. I didn't have to replace mine but I had to re-engineer the hull mount. I don't wish that task on anyone. Consider sealing and faring your glass work surface with Interlux "Watertite" epoxy filler. It tools just like Bondo, but it isn't porous after cure like Bondo and it accepts all types of paint.

[@LearningtheLines]

I was wondering if an epoxy coating might me a good idea, so thanks for the recommendation. I was really nervous when we had to leave that last inch for the next day. Concerned that now that it wasn't cold it wouldn't budge. Very relieving to get it moving again.

[@BigMouth380cal]

I am such a nit picker.... Your schematic view of the "TRADITIONAL" vs "OUR" is only slightly incorrect. While the outer layer of your strut was thinner due to corrosion, the inner dimension would still be the same. Once you removed the inner rubber you now had to replace that dimension with both the Brass Cutlass AND a new but thinner rubber. But you have done a great job.

[@LearningtheLines]

BigMouth380cal, haha I should have wrote "not to scale."

[@edb5604]

copper plate is poisen to sea life, there is less chance of being struck by lightening if there was no contact with the water, the hull is double insulation from lightening , i have been an electrical engineer for over 30 years that book your going off is telling you wrong , :(

[@johnmccormick175]

Great job!

[@LearningtheLines]

Thank you!

[@jonhering5660]

Good work!

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks!

[@PrivateUsername]

Check out what is called "hard facing" in welding and fabrication. You could just get some material brazed on the surface of that strut to shore up any material strength or thickness issues you might have. Google term you want is something like "hard facing bronze surfacing" or thereabout. TL;DR: keep the strut and just build up the outside.

[@LearningtheLines]

Jordan was looking at brazing videos the other day, coincidentally. He loves to watch welding type videos. That could be an option in the future rather than replacing the strut.

[@WCTarheel]

Good job on the bearing. Be careful when installing your set screws so that you don't cause excess friction (pinching) on the shaft. A cup tipped setscrew should work well, which will bite into the bearing with modest torque. Another possibility is a pointed tipped set screw, with lightly drilling into the bearing to seat the tip. Using locktite to hold them in place should keep them there till they need to be removed.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for the tip on set screws. I may have to look into those. I do wish ours were just a bit longer so this could be a reason to switch them out. Lol

[@clayfarnet970]

Do you know what I would’ve done...haha Great job guys!

[@LearningtheLines]

Lol thanks!

[@radyphilips8710]

Good job based on what you had to work with.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks! 😊

[@MrRourk]

How little you plan to run the engine it may last for years.

[@LearningtheLines]

We hope so!

[@lyfandeth]

It makes sense. I'd just worry that the old rubber has no structural strength, and that still leaves just 1mm. of structural strut. Knock wood, it and the rudder will last the year, but don't leave it there forever. The Dynaplate would have still been good if you added a radio, any radio, in the future. VHF, AIS, anything. On the bright side, if you tossed a pound of bronze, your boat is now lighter and faster. :-)

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for watching!

[@timothyroberts6646]

Not ideal option on the bearing but that looks like itll work pretty good

[@LearningtheLines]

Certainly not ideal, but best we could come up with. Thanks for watching!

[@8056443232]

I would have done the same.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for watching!

[@wakalyfe]

I swear, your channel is the only channel I 👍 the video even before I watch it.

[@LearningtheLines]

Aw, shucks. Thank you. 😊

[@ryanconrad9811]

I think it was a smart play, would have done the same thing.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks for watching!

[@JonMadsen70]

:)

[@LearningtheLines]

😊

[@gac914]

a.k.jja. Fugly.....???????

[@LearningtheLines]

Lol it's our neighbors little RV.

[@garlandgarrett6332]

Should work just fine.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks!

[@dieselram05]

Umm, as tight as the new cutlass bearing went in it may very well be no longer perfectly round, you should have at least run a hone through the old jacket to true it up. In the close up shot it even looks as if your new cutlass is off center. If it is no longer perfectly round it may make the shaft to tight. A proper repair should not take that long really...

[@LearningtheLines]

I guess all I can really say to that is we'll see. We are very real time with our videos so we haven't done more with this as we both have a cold. We did inspect it though after installation and it seemed to have kept its shape to us. Like we always say though, we're not professionals, so we may have made a mistake.

[@dieselram05]

Learning the Lines the change in shape is likely to be too small to spot without measuring it. You’ll have a good idea once you try fitting your shaft, if it’s tight you’ll know it. Good luck

[@bruceklein9008]

I think it will work just fine.

[@LearningtheLines]

Thanks, Bruce!

[@camprose]

Take it from an engineer, for a band aid fix you were right to leave the old bearing sleeve in place for now and the 4 set screw with the friction fit.... that new bearing is going nowhere! Make a point to replace the strut after ya'll have had some fun.

[@LearningtheLines]

Good to hear! Thanks for the feedback.

[@howardfalvey4828]

You talk too much, saying the same thing over and over!

[@toliver66]

I think he was just trying to make it perfectly clear what he had to work with and why he did what he did so as to minimize the negative comments. And a fine job of it he did.

[@LearningtheLines]

We just realized it was very difficult to see what was going on from our Friday video, so we wanted to clarify it.