#70 RGM Watches: High Horology in America

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RGM is the only watchmaker in the U.S. that I know about who makes in-house movements. They also use Swiss movements from the usual suspects, and they even use vintage parts from American watch companies of yore to make new movement. So what about this American watchmaker? Are RGM watches any good? WatchArtSci covers the general topics of high horology watches, watch movements, purchasing watches, judging the value of a watch and its movements and understanding the history of different watches and watch brands that collectors cherish.

[@daa3417]

The wiggly hand on the “110” is the alarm set hand, ie the time when the alarm will sound. I really like alarm watches they aren’t nearly as known as repeaters and the alarm isn’t as classy or whimsical as the sound of a repeater but a fun and useful complication all the same.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Da A, thanks for the information. I got a Poljot (sp?) alarm watch, and it's a fun watch to have. I'm not big into either alarm or repeater watches because I have such poor hearing. (I'd need one with the gong the size of Big Ben to hear it..) However, you are right, and I'm very happy with my Poljot alarm. Cheers, Bill

[@pennfootball71]

Great RGM video I have handled a few of their watches...Their fit and finish is top notch. Even their cheaper models are finished like watches that cost 3x as much.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Don, I'm really glad to hear that. From looking at their pictures and what I know about Grand Feu, I was pretty sure I like the dials and cases. Their real contribution is the 'motor barrel' that they put in their Model 20 and Tourbillon. Cheers, Bill

[@jameswong6590]

Great video Bill. You always have something different and interesting to show us. Eventhough I know about RGM, but I kinda forgot about this interesting watch company already. Thanks for reminding me. Have a great weekend.

[@watchartsci]

Hey James, thanks man!! Some collectors like learning more and more about one watch or brand. I like finding out about all mechanical watches that are doing unique, interesting and unusual things. One of these days, I hope to visit JS Watches in Iceland. Kindest regards, Bill

[@jaysikes4256]

As soon as I heard that RGM had a beef with Ablogtowatch, I knew I liked the company even more...

[@watchartsci]

Jay, you're golden!! A bit of gossip to spice things up! So tell me about the RGM-Ablogtowatch dust up!! Cheers, Bill

[@jaysikes4256]

Ablogtowatch featured some articles about RGM. Everything appeared copacetic, but at some point they put a disclaimer for each article saying they could not endorse RGM due to "recent events". I tend to root for the underdog! Do a search for one of their RGM articles and you will still see that disclaimer. Very mysterious indeed....

[@watchartsci]

Ah-ha! This sounds like a job for 'The Madison Avenue Irregulars!' --- we investigate all things with watches. We're on it!! Cheers, Bill. (...we acknowledge that the name was lifted in part from the works of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and the 'Baker Street Irregulars.'...)

[@andrew_owens7680]

When we get to a certain age, all of us get irregular. No need to apologize. LOL

[@westleygreenhalf2338]

If I remember correctly, I think there was an argument between the two about a competition prize, although, I cannot be sure. @@watchartsci

[@idid1866]

RGM produces around 300 watches annually...small 12 employee company!

[@watchartsci]

Love RGM! I met Roland Murphy and he's all about making excellent watches. Cheers, Bill

[@idid1866]

That's awesome...saw one of his first watches in Tourneau years back and didn't pull the trigger! I wind-up buying my Omega AT, of which I still own, but I am selling, soon...lol!

[@itsalgud1459]

Thanks, Bill, very interesting introduction to an American watch brand I had not heard of until today.

[@watchartsci]

As they say, 'It's all good!' I met Roland Murphy and he's a dedicated watchmaker. Cheers, Bill

[@jeffhogan2766]

I can't stop looking at this company's watches. I'm going to have to get something soon. Thank you so much for a phenomenal, in-depth review

[@watchartsci]

I'm a big fan of his Corps of Engineers watches, Jeff. Maybe someday? Take care, Bill

[@jeffhogan2766]

I wish there were places to see them and try them on. For me watches are like clothes. I really do like to try them on before I buy them. I might just have to make a trip to Pennsylvania :-)

[@watchartsci]

@@jeffhogan2766 For the last several years, RGM has been at the annual NYC WatchTime Show in October. If you can get to the show, you can try one on ... and have a great tie! Take care, Bill

[@westleygreenhalf2338]

RGM is an interesting company. I really like their RGM/Jaquet 736. It is housed in a beautifully proportioned case with a lovely dial.

[@watchartsci]

Hi Westley, I may have mentioned I started collecting watches with the Jaquet 736 (La Joux-Perret 736.x) movements. The RGM by far is the nicest and probably the only one with an original Jaquet 736 movement. I have the Maurice Lacroix with the La Joux-Perret 736-3. Several brands including besides RGM, Baume & Mercier, Corum, Dunhill, DuBois et fils and Maurice Lacroix. Other than RGM, I don't think any of the other watch companies still make them. I know that La Joux-Perret quit making them too. That's why they're fun to collect! Cheers, Bill

[@losfont5674]

Great looking watches. Was not familiar with the brand.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Los Font, Roland Murphy, the RGM watchmaker is a cool guy too. Take care and stay safe, Bill😷

[@jamessantana2071]

Pierre sent "UP THE RIVER" !!! Growing up in N.Y.C. we assumed someone was sent up the "Hudson" River to jail (Great "Funny" Horological Story) ... It must be "Nice" to have an extra $95,000 laying around the bank to splurge on a Beautiful Tourneau Shaped RGM 20 ... The RGM 110 with the extra squiggly hand is like my 38mm M.L. 18K Triple Calendar only the third hand is straight & points to the day of the month (bargain at $3,600 on Chrono24) ... RGM should be designated as the PREMIER American Company if nothing else for their HONESTY in not hiding their ETA movements ! I'm learning so much from you my head may Explode. Thanks Again For A Super Insightful Review. Major Jim, USMC

[@watchartsci]

Hey James!! Glad you liked RGM watches. I met Roland G. Murphy (RGM) at the WatchTime Show last week in NYC. Great guy with the same passion for watchmaking as FP Journe, Kari Voultinainen or Philippe Dufour. The RGM Caliber 20 is not $95k but $29k; still a crazy amount...but. One of the few watches with an ETA base that I like is the COE 151. (The 801 COE is $97k!!) There might be some deals on the COE 151 if you're interested. I still like the Caliber 20, but I'll have to wait for it to hit the used market. Cheers, Bill

[@chr1s60]

Very informative video, Bill. Lots of very cool watches. If I could just find that spare $95,000 I left laying around for that tourbillon!

[@watchartsci]

Hey Chr1s60, thanks man. There were a lot of their watches I liked, but for me the Model 20 with the tonneau shape with a matching movement is my favorite. Of their in-house 'affordable' I liked the 801 Pilot watch that they put up in the 2016 GPHG. Kindest regards, Bill

[@etebol]

Thanks for introducing me to RGM.

[@watchartsci]

Probably the only real American watch company, Ed, that has some of its own movements and produces more than a handful annually. Glad you like them. Take care, Bill

[@tods.9947]

I know this is an older thread but I’m planning on attending the Rowland Murphy hosted NAWCC museum tour on Feb 23. Should be really interesting. I’ll be wearing a Hamilton. 😊

[@watchartsci]

Hi Tod, I'd really like to go to that, but I'm afraid I'll be unable on that date.I'd really like to hear about it, though. You can post your observations here if you like. Have fun! Bill

[@tods.9947]

WatchArtSci - yes, I will!

[@ericchilver9113]

Thankyou Bill ..a very informative video, appreciated. I was wondering how many American watchmakers were still producing in house movements. I watched recently a video about the National watch and clock museum. 🇦🇺🇺🇸

[@watchartsci]

Roland Murphy of RGM is probably the only one, but most of his movements are from outside sources, Eric. Take care, Bill

[@scowell]

RGM buys balance assemblies from someone else for their 'in-house' movments... Swiss, probably.

[@watchartsci]

Yeah, Stephen, and so do most watchmakers. Take care, Bill

[@publiusvelocitor4668]

Great video- I love RGM from afar, but have never had an opportunity to handle them in person. I love the look of the RGM20... the simple one, not the skeletonized one. Beautiful pieces! I like the idea of high horology in America- would love to see America back in the game. Have you heard of Weiss watch co in Los Angeles? I guess they have an in-house movement. I've never seen one in real life, but would love to. Have you? Would love to see a review of one.

[@watchartsci]

Hi PV, yes I would like to see an American company fully create mechanical watches. The Weiss caliber 2100 uses Swiss Eterna caliber 39 as a base and do it up in a post-modern severe style that looks great through the case back. However, charging 2K for the watch strikes me as a bit optimistic for such a simple watch with an inexpensive movement. Of course, they could really get collectors interest if they did what Habring2 has done and create their own movement. Cheers, Bill

[@publiusvelocitor4668]

This article led me to believe Weiss has its own in-house movement: tinyurl.com/yapkg7xl It's dated 2016, so maybe old information? If Weiss *does* come out with an American-made in-house movement, it would be very exciting. The dial looks a lot like a Sinn 6110 (which I own and adore), so I'm not sure I would buy one... it's appearance wouldn't add any variety to my collection, but with an all-American in-house movement, I might be tempted!

[@dominicc.3864]

Just found your channel and love the content. Can you post a link to an article about the movement maker making fake rolexs....That sounds like a good read. Thanks.

[@watchartsci]

Hey Dominic, thanks man! I have no Rolexes, but may at some point. Here's a good article on spotting a fake Rolex that can be instructive for other kinds of watches as well. www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/the-top-ways-to-spot-a-fake-rolex.html Bob's Watches sells Rolexes; so he's probably in a position to have to content with fakes on trade-ins. Kindest regards, Bill

[@dominicc.3864]

WatchArtSci thanks for the heads up. In your video you mentioned that there was a watch movement maker who went to jail for making fake rolexs. I meant that sounds like an interesting read if there is an article about it. Thanks for the quick replay.

[@watchartsci]

Here's the link you want: www.watch-wiki.net/index.php?title=La_Joux-Perret Jaquet, SA was a well-respected movement and parts maker in Switzerland. The head of the company was Jean-Pierre Jaquet who received some no-nos but his company goes on under the new name, La Joux-Perret. Kindest regards, Bill

[@jumboJetPilot]

My next watch will be an RGM. I have a specific idea for a guillochè dial that I want the master himself to make for me!

[@watchartsci]

Hi JJP!! I like the 801 COE with the enamel dial. What is your idea with the guillochè dial? I'm sure Roland will accommodate you admirably. Kindest regards, Bill

[@jumboJetPilot]

Hi Bill! I'm interested in the 250-E. I'm interested in a specific guilloche pattern that resembles a grandfather's clock dial that my grand mother had. I want a specific enamel color over the guilloche and with blued steel hands. As a coincidence, I don't live far from RGM at all and I'd just go there in person to acquire it. I look forward to doing so!

[@watchartsci]

Wow that sounds like fun. I like the RGM/Valgranges movement. I'm not sure what Roland does with it, but on its own merits the Valgranges is a nice big movement that fills the case. (You really a BUF pilot?) Cheers, Bill

[@jumboJetPilot]

WatchArtSci I’m definitely looking forward to it. It will be cool to be able to say I have a bespoke watch! And yes, I’m a Boeing 747 captain (-400 and -8 variants; I’m dual qualified). I also fly the C-5M Super Galaxy for the Air Force Reserve.

[@watchartsci]

Hey JJP, that will be cool. I used to fly a Cessna 177B (late 80s & early 90s) and we though that the ultimate watch was either a TAG Heuer or Breitling ... simply because those were sold in the FBO. I wonder if any pilots get pilot watches, like the RGM 801 "Aircraft?" Your bespoke watch sound like a lot of fun! Cheers, Bill

[@micheldepaula8733]

Up!

[@watchartsci]

🤔???

[@micheldepaula8733]

@@watchartsci hahaha Bill, this is an old way to bring old post up to the top of Forum threads. Especially It would keep the post, in this case a video, alive/relevant or not forgotten. Alternatively people used the expression “bump” for the same idea. Since the video is relevant I could not resist. Thanks for the info!

[@missourimongoose7643]

Do these watches hold there value like other premium brands or does it drop off a bridge? My dad likes rolex's but I wanna get him something different and American made is preferred but I'll get made fun of if I buy this and it doesn't retain it's worth lol

[@watchartsci]

Hey Mongoose ... check the RGM used market and see what they cost. Or get him a Rolex AirKing and tell him about the Bloodhound Land Racer that the dial was modeled after. Take care, Bill

[@missourimongoose7643]

@@watchartsci last time I bought a Rolex wasn't the best experience, guess I don't dress like I should own a watch that expensive but I'm definitely researching rgm and some other brands

[@watchartsci]

@@missourimongoose7643 Wear the watch ... don't let it wear you! Good hunting! Take care, Bill

[@altonriggs2352]

Keystone is center stone of an arch. Damascusing comes from firearm industry. Decorative and makes parts smooth working. Hey..whats a few fake Rolexes between friends.

[@watchartsci]

Hmmmm Alton...where did the fake Rolexes come from? Thanks, Bill

[@thehealer74]

Professor many thanks for this insightful introduction to RGM🙏🏻✨ One thing for sure, they are not cheep even at their entry level models🤡I guess patriotism has its price🇺🇸

[@watchartsci]

Hey Jaber, thanks man! No, they are not cheap; especially that tourbillon! I like the Model 20 with the tonneau dial and movement, but at $30k in stainless steel, it's not inexpensive either! Kindest regards, Bill

[@BeckVMH]

WatchArtSc

[@wheels845]

God watches. I own one.

[@watchartsci]

Wheels, which one do you own? Thanks, Bill

[@wheels845]

@@watchartsci I own the stainless pilots watch, chino triple register. However , needs work. I believe it’s the B/W and hairspring. Probably slight bend and / or overlap.

[@wheels845]

@@watchartsci sorry bill, I own the pilot watch with an ETA 7750 ,triple subs, automatic,. Iam trying to find a cheap ,hehe 7750 for replacement.