Watch This Before Buying an Expensive Table Saw Blade

[@731Woodworks]

How to clean your saw blades: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXTTeYqug7-Ha5o

[@williamhudson8493]

Yeah, there was no bias in this comparison none at all

[@731Woodworks]

👊🏻

[@sergiog8241]

i was about to ask lol thanks

[@albeit65]

@@jasonsahadeo5740 Bought my first forrest blade June3, 1998 its been kept clean and sharpened I think twice and still cuts great. Thin kerf blades can bend under load and over heat, it's a throw away blade good for rough work. I use them for working on my house, bought 2 in the past year. Just saying for fine work and longevity Forrest is the way to go.

[@wessamazzo8856]

If it's made in America, it's trash.

[@keithkolbo2735]

The burning and resistance you felt with the Forrest blade was in part because your blade was too low. The rake etc of the Forrest is designed for more height. You can read more about burning on the instruction sheet that came with the blade. The rubber coating on the blade teeth is to prevent nicking or cracking the carbide teeth. I did a comparison and the Forrest consistantly gave me a sanded smooth edge. The Diablo was ok, but just not as smooth. Thanks for the vid.

[@mattbibeault843]

I thought I was splurging when I bought a Diablo blade LOL

[@731Woodworks]

lol

[@linksawakening9737]

Lol right,

[@cgrizz33]

Agreed lol

[@JLabanz]

Right there with you

[@isLife-nn5yl]

Totally agree!

[@ericschaming1141]

And here I thought the Diablo blades were expensive LOL

[@731Woodworks]

lol

[@gregoryhilliardjr7545]

I thought the same thing! I’ve had two Diablo reciprocating saw blades and they’ve lasted me a lot longer than any other blade I’ve owned.

[@Troy-Echo]

If you look on Amazon for Diablo blades, they are the highest ranked blades as of 10-14 days ago, or maybe I just set a price range? I've seen several videos saying a higher tooth blade will reduce edge tear out, along with a tighter cover around the blade which gives edge support to your wood as close to the blade as possible, which also helps prevent tear out.

[@zachsheets8315]

@@MintStiles it cost 20 bucks to resharpen the blade. A Diablo 10” blade range from 35-60 bucks.as well you can resharpen a Forrest blade 50 times. I have saved more in the last 3 years now running a Forrest blade then buying several Diablo blades. I burned through several Diablo blades cutting hardwood as that’s all I mainly cut. (Like 2 a week) vs sharpening my Forrest blade 3 times in the last 3 years. It’s made it’s money and more. Diablo is fine for Light hardwood but not 3” thick stuff I cut daily.

[@noelgrau9554]

Burning has to do with feed rate

[@dudester2136]

The differences in the blades observed are probably more due to the fact that one is a 60 tooth and the other is a 40 tooth. Also, the Diablo is a thin kerf, while the Forrest is a full kerf blade which may make an even bigger difference. The Delta saw that you have will have an easier time driving the thin kerf than the full kerf. Commercial table saws tend to the 3hp or 5hp so the kerf difference won't matter in those cases as much.

[@731Woodworks]

Possibly so. Thanks

[@dimensionswoodworks]

The WWII is also a thin kerf blade.

[@dudester2136]

@@dimensionswoodworks This one is standard Kerf. You can see it at the beginning of the video when he shows the packaging. The thin kerf is optional.

[@richardfairchild1102]

Two very different blades. Dudester it the nail on the head. When I had a smaller HP table saw, thin kerf was the only way to go (like Diablo used here). A standard kerf blade (like WWII used here) would bog down and leave more burn marks. Add to it the additional number of teeth on one blade versus the other and the experiment has too many different variables to come to a reasonable conclusion. I’d love to see all variables the same, Diablo vs Forrest! Love your videos 731 Woodworks.

[@carlcox7332]

Also the higher end blades are pretty cheap to have sharpened and you can get as many as 10 sharpenings on one blade so the overall savings over time is pretty substantial. But I totally use diablo or Freud myself. Both very good blades for the price

[@barryirby8609]

Been using the Forrest WWII for twenty years. A great investment. Very versatile. I switch to a Diablo or even cheaper blade on lumber than might have nails or dirt and rocks. If you want to be amazed try using a 7 1/4" or 8" thin kerf blade. Feels like you doubled the size of the motor.

[@731Woodworks]

thank you

[@beckyt3870]

For this to be a true test both blades would have to be of the same tooth count. Also, you should have had some sort hold down mechanism in play to keep the boards from raising off the table. I believe the burning took place near the ends because during the transition of pushing by hand then going to the push stick the blade was allowed to dwell there and and possibly burnish the board and the slight pinch it caused. I always leave the thin strips to the outside of the blade for better flow speed throughout the cut. Just my two cents.

[@gregboggs2708]

But he mentioned the difference in teeth many times😁

[@pumpkinheadghoul]

@@gregboggs2708 That still doesn't compensate for the difference in tooth count. It's still comparing two entirely different blades that are designed to do two entirely different things and give you two entirely different cuts, and then trying to determine which gives a better cut. That's like comparing a V8 to a 4 cylinder, and then claiming the 4 cylinder is better because it gets better gas mileage.

[@jeffffro7674]

I agree 💯 with you, how do you test two completely different blades against each other??!? The burning is operator error, to avoid burning, on ANY blade you've got to know how to read the grain and which direction to cut, which face up/down etc. I bought a Forrest Woodworker II when I 1st began doing work and I was building my shop solely on the fancy pants ads in mags, silly, I know, but here, 28 years later!!!!! and I still love it every time I use it!!!! I keep it for woods ONLY!!! For all other materials I use the crappier diablo and Freud blades.

[@11211lcb]

It is difficult to controll "crap construction grade" lumber when it is not flat or straight to begin with.

[@danspackman1394]

Terrible comparison Why not do it fair?

[@ApexGuardian]

I feel the tooth count difference will affect the outcome and I'm personally not to thrilled with the experiment due to this simple oversight. I'd like to see it done again with same tooth count

[@731Woodworks]

👍🏻

[@Adventures_of_Marshmallow]

Not just tooth count, but Rake also. Both factors make a significant difference in cut quality and longevity.

[@4dchessplayer516]

Stop trying to justify yourself for spending 150 on a blade :-)

[@nico8587d]

@@4dchessplayer516 That Forrest blade is very nice and cheaper in the long run after all the sharpenings you get. Lot of carpenters will tell you to spend your money on high quality blades and bits, ( router or drill bits).

[@juanbeans9534]

@@nico8587d this is what I was thinking. And when cutting plywood’s their blades are best

[@monwell27]

When I get a better saw I will start buying higher end blades. I can’t justify putting a 150 blade on a 300 saw. Just doesn’t seem right to me. Still saving for my sawstop

[@731Woodworks]

true

[@Hagg506]

I have been running a small wood working business for several years. I struggled with this question for a while and here is my opinion. The diablo blades are great, i like them a lot. The blade and carbide teeth tend to be thinner....so they are not hogging as much material as the thicker more expensive blades. I actually felt the diablo blades could cut thicker stock better as long as it was a fairly sharp blade. Where the thicker more expensive blades excel is the precision cuts. If you make boxes for example and you need perfect 45 degree cuts....measured to the thousands of an inch. The diablo blades either flex during the cut or just arent able to cut consistent enough to give you that type of precision. If you had a professional grade saw.....thicker (full kerf) blade....probably work better.

[@731Woodworks]

makes sense. Thank you

[@CentralNH]

For a better cut,less scrap, more accurate cuts and a safer saw throw those 10" blades out the window! A smaller blade less heat,less wear and tear on your saw, more accurate, smaller curf less waste, the only time I use a 10" blade is for taller stock or a 4x4, way less $$$ than 10" too. Great video comparison. Do one on a diablo 10 and a 7 1/4 on your saw I did years ago and rarely use a 10. A 10 saw doesn't mean you need to use a 10" blade. Ask yourself this...how often do I cut something thicker than a 2x4? If number is huge use a 10 but it is so amazing how much smoother and quieter your saw runs.

[@731Woodworks]

Nice tips

[@mattbrumm8255]

I appreciate you doing beginner wood working project with beginner wood working tools. A lot of guys on YT use Festools and show how to do beginner projects. I’m not mad at them and I’d like to upgrade one day to those types of quality tools but you show people how to do it with the tools they have. God bless brother.

[@731Woodworks]

Thanks 👍

[@stevenlovell4445]

Yes I use them both. They each have there own use. Biggest difference to me my contractor saw I started with has less power for 1/8 kerf of the Forrest but Diablo being thin kerf. However my 12” 5 hp cabinet saw which has power like crazy I mostly use the Forrest. Saw power makes a difference too!

[@731Woodworks]

awesome. thanks for sharing

[@roycethompson3386]

Somebody explained it well by saying that the value is in the longevity. Brand new, both blades will cut excellent. But when it’s time to get them sharpened, which costs about 25$, I will spend 25$ to get back basically a new 30$ blade with Diablo. I will spend 25$ to get back a new 150$ blade with Forrest.

[@carlcox7332]

Exactly. And some of the ulra premium blades you can get 10 sharpenings from a single blade saving a huge amount over the entire life

[@SwearingenTurnings]

I just made the jump from "hobbyist" level blades (Diablo, etc.) to Forrest. (I paused the video right after you asked to post this.) YES. 100 TIMES YES. I bought a dedicated cross cut and a dedicated ripping blade for my fledgling business (which YOU helped me start!) and, man, the difference is night and day. I love their performance. I plan on buying another of each to have on hand when I send these off for sharpening. So yeah, I don't regret it AT ALL.

[@SwearingenTurnings]

Now that the video is done: I agree with you. For a hobbyist, the Diablo is a good blade. For a professional or semi-pro, I think the Forrest is worth it, especially if you buy dedicated blades (ripping, cross cut, laminate).

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@davebuehner4307]

Some folks drive a Chevy Spark and are happy, others prefer to drive Bentley. Don’t buy a Bentley if you only drive occasionally and don’t appreciate the refined handling and luxury. Sure the Spark is easier to park, gets better mileage and costs less, but …. Don’t buy the Forrest if your saw is underpowered or if you change blades often, it is a premium blade for better performance on cabinet saws by craftsman that have come to demand the best they can find. If your saw is a contractor version or underpowered the Forrest is probably not for you. (Also if you have a sawstop). Slop in the shaft bearings, belt vibration, lack of solid dampening will all compromise that Bentley luxury. Stick to a value thin curb blade, keep a fatter wallet and a clean conscience. Good is good enough. Muck like Festool, they might be better, but still unnecessary for most craftsman. Similarly with Forrest, better to cut with a clean sharp blade using a solid setup with true square jigs than throw money into tools that won’t make a difference in your skill level. BTW for the best results - use a blade stiffener and raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet in the cut. Remember it’s not the tools that turn a woodworker into a craftsman, it’s the results. But tools can make it more fun.

[@dimensionswoodworks]

I’ve used both, and many other blades. The real difference comes in time. While they’ll both cut wood , my Forrest has been on my saw (the exact same saw that you have ) for over a year. And the cut quality is absolutely SUPERIOR. Especially on plywood, the finished cut is still perfect and all I’ve done is clean the blades. On another note, the “silicone” (wax) around the Forrest is to protect the teeth from getting banged up during shipping. Also get yourself a telescopic mechanic magnet for that arbor nut that always seems to fall 😂

[@731Woodworks]

lol thank you

[@mattnewhouse4560]

I get my Diablo blades re-sharpened locally for $.25 per tooth ($15 for a 60 tooth) . With 4 in rotation I never have to worry about having a sharp blade on hand.

[@731Woodworks]

Nice

[@jeffmardock4899]

forrest blade can be sent away and get sharpened for free for life.

[@jeffmardock4899]

This does appear to be bad info. My mistake.

[@ronhansen7717]

I bought a 60 tooth Amana blade for my table saw 18 years ago! It has finally gotten to the point where it is too dull to use. I forget how much I paid for it, but it was over $100. I know it sounds unbelievable, but true. Now, I don't do production work and the hardest wood I cut is cherry and oak, but it has worked fine until recently. I just bought 60 and 80 tooth Diablo blades for my Delta table saw (10") and Dewalt miter saw (12"), but haven't used them yet, I'll let you know how they turn out. My old Delta 10" miter saw has gone through a ton of cheap blades, but I cut all kinds of things on it, including aluminum and Hardy board siding.

[@chrisnash2154]

Man! You have GENEROUS viewers! I’m with you brother. For cost of one Forest River, I bought 3 Diablo blades, (24 tooth for ripping, 50 tooth for general purpose and an 80 tooth for fine finishes) for less than that one blade. I’m an average Joe so average tools are just fine for me.

[@731Woodworks]

Yes I do. Very generous. We have been blessed

[@capri2wd]

I applied the same logic to my chop saw, and i'm well happy with it. not got space for a table saw tho...

[@hyrulehyzers]

If you get burns on a rip cut it means one of two things... 1, feed rate is not matching saw power or 2, fence and blade are not parallel. More often it's #2. You mentioned you noticed tighter tolerances for the arbor hole, the entire blade from Forrest is like that. The Diablo has more flex and different tooth geometry to compensate for the slightly looser tolerances of its target market giving the perception of keeping up with the Forrest blade. Your Delta table saw is a good saw and can be dialed in well. If you take an hour or so to get OCD with aligning the trunions to your miter slot and the fence to the blade then magic will endow your saw and you'll really see the difference a higher dollar blade can make.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@slow96ss]

I have the same saw and recently bought high(er) end Amana and CMT blades. Personally, the longevity in sharpness of the higher quality blades outweighs the problems I encounter with a dull cheaper blade. Also, the Forrest is a full 1/8 kerf whereas the diablo or other box store blade is generally a thin kerf blade. Our saws need to work harder with the full kerf blades, but I've adjusted feed speed and am very happy :)

[@731Woodworks]

thank you

[@borislum1998]

I am a Diablo combo blade guy because they are sharp: they are thin kerf; they use a very good anti-virbration system (does not ring like a bell): can be resharpened (about $20); and often on sale. Good video

[@BrundonC]

I absolutely love and recommend my Forrest blades. The cut quality, is amazing, the ability to resharpen is fantastic and the blades overall are just better. For the average homeowner or DIY person. No, you don’t need Forrest. But if you care, and you use a saw daily, you’ll love Forrest.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@bombamanwa]

Agree, there are some differences between the blade, Thin Kerf (0.098" on the Diablo) and Full Kerf (0.125" on the WW2) (+27% more material to remove) ontop of the tooth difference. (40 v 60T) and tooth profile. Additionally because they are made locally (NJ) the support is local for the Professional. Given the circumstances, Matt's outcome was fair, and I would of been supprised if he recommended it for the small project maker/DIY-er. Its essentially the saw blade version of a Festool ETS 125 vs a DeWalt DWE6423.

[@jeffwilder7117]

I have a full kerf Diablo ATBF blade. I really like it. You don’t find this one at a big box store. Only mail order or woodworking stores. Every 5th tooth is flat. I also have a Ridge Carbide full kerf combination blade. It’s a little cheaper than the Forrest but an incredible blade. Great cuts. No burning.

[@plunger110]

A couple of further points of consideration, The HP of the saw being used. The Forrest blade is much heavier at a full1/8" kerf and massive carbide tips that can be re-sharpened numerous times (Forrest provides this service as well), The Diablo I believe is a "Thin" kerf blade at 3/32". I own the Forrest box joint set of blades and my saw is under 3hp and it is noticeable when the saw is first starting as to the weight difference as opposed to using a standard Dado set. The Freud is still a great blade, likely better for the occasional woodworker and the Forrest blade I would typically expect to see more often used in a more professional setting.

[@dougchisnell6804]

Agree with you Matt 💯. You the man, buy 4.2 Diablo blades over 150 dollar blade day or night. Love your videos,keep it up.

[@731Woodworks]

Thanks 👍

[@nolimitnuggetb]

I'm a Diablo fan, especially compared to the factory blades on the cheaper to midrange tools. I will say that I recently had upgrade to a carbide ripping blade for 8/4 red oak on a current project. Diablo was burning and struggling. Still a Diablo fan, but learning to use the right blade for the job

[@731Woodworks]

They are good

[@thomasweaver905]

You are correct. My feelings exactly. I have paid a lot more than $35 for Diablo blades....90 tooth miter, 72 tooth table saw. My miter saw blade is about a year and a half old, still cuts fine.

[@danieldrake8908]

Hey Matt - just want to commend you on your hard work! I started following you when you had under 25k subscribers, and look at you now - you and Mrs. 731 are officially the hardest working couple in woodworking! My wife and I were also married on 7/31 by the way. Maybe we should collaborate on a 731 club! Cheers!

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you. That’s awesome 👊🏻

[@martingayle5376]

@@731Woodworks Hmmmm... I am new here. I thought 0731 was 1 Corinthians 7:31- Those who use the things of the world...

[@jlgrrt1]

Another 731 couple over here.

[@Dahna_]

@@martingayle5376 I thought maybe 731 was their house number. can you clarify why you chose the name?

[@mnmike59]

Definitely an Apples and Oranges kind of comparison, BUT, I am Really thankful you did this. I have been wondering about the high end Blade, If I would benefit by having it. My quick answer is, No I would not. Maybe when I advance my skills and experience, but for now, I'm good with Diablo. Thanks Matt, once again you saved me more $$$$.

[@731Woodworks]

glad it helped

[@gtjman1]

I’m going to guess that, out of the box, you won’t be able to tell the difference. I think the difference is going to come over time (longevity).

[@731Woodworks]

Thank

[@andrewnayl]

How many times can you sharpen a Diablo blade? I know Forrest blades can be sharpened multiple times.

[@dimensionswoodworks]

☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻 This guy is ABSOLUTELY correct 😃

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

@@andrewnayl Diablo can also

[@andrewnayl]

@@LemonySnicket-EUC I’m willing to bet Forrest blades hold their edge longer and can be sharpened more. However, for the average person, I think Diablo blades are plenty sufficient. Forrest seems to be tailored more towards professional wood workers.

[@jimcooney9019]

when you buy a professional blade they all come that way and the burning would be due from stress from the wood different parts of the wood will be stressed in different ways you got a ways to go young man

[@bourbonsnob8218]

Love Diablo blades! Had good luck with Dewalt as well. $150? It better last all year.

[@731Woodworks]

lol for sure

[@johnthemaker8796]

The difference between a Diablo thin kerf blade and say a Forrest full kerf blade, is the fact that the full kerf blade is going to be more stable during a cut. One thing that I've noticed with the Diablo, and don't get me wrong I use a lot of Diablo blades for certain things, is that when cutting wood with particular grain patterns the blade will Flex slightly as it tries to follow the grain during the cut. This isn't because there's anything "wrong" with the blade except the fact that it's thin. The forest blade is made from a much thicker piece of Steel and therefore is less susceptible to flex during a cut. This is really only important when you are doing very high high-precision jointing operations. I build musical instruments, and when I need really tight precision (I.e. very very straight cuts) I always reach for a full kerf blade.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you for sharing that

[@savage6394]

I really hope there’s not much a difference, just so I don’t need to start wanting one.

[@731Woodworks]

👍🏻

[@PTC61]

I like your channel and expected better on this one. I have had a Forrest blade and it is incredible. Also very expensive. I bought mine 22 years ago for a specific project. It makes more precise cuts and the cuts leave no saw marks. I would never let my Forrest blade get gummed up cutting soft wood. I only put it on my table saw when I am making final cuts on hardwood. 22 years later it still makes flawless, no sanding required, cuts.

[@jonathonevink4387]

Thanks for that Matt! Glad to hear my Diablos can still hang with the spendy blades!

[@731Woodworks]

I was actually surprised

[@Cornfed19821982]

Remember its not just about the cut. Forrest uses high quality carbide and much bigger carbide which can be resharpened much much more. Much longer blade life and holds edge better longer.

[@731Woodworks]

Thanks

[@Cornfed19821982]

Certainly, as a fellow small shop woodworker I struggle with the same question. As I have moved away from so much pine and plywood projects and into mostly domestic hard woods and some exotics, I cant afford bad cuts. I started to look at TS blades as not disposable. Also helps that I have a great industrial sharpening business 15 mins away which cost $10ish per blade with a 2-3 day turn around.

[@TheNATE8599]

good video!!! I'm just at the point where my Diablo needs to be replaced (used for a year, probably 50 hours cut time) and Mrs KiltsCanDo suggested a More expensive blade like a forrest. so this video came JIT!

[@731Woodworks]

👊🏻

[@mr.c6674]

Is it something you can actually quantify to say it's better?

[@Zamboni-0805]

One other thing I would like to point out is you and your channel caters more towards the weekend warrior or DIY'er, so a less expensive blade makes more sense. That why 90% of the comment agree with you. However, a full blown cabinet maker or a custom fine woodworker are going to appreciate the quality and longevity of the higher end blades. That is like saying a Festool anything is no better than a lower end power tool, sure they both get the job done, but we both know that there is a difference. It all depends on the kind of work you do, that drives the quality of tool you use.

[@731Woodworks]

That's why I say towards the end of the video, for a beginner woodworker, go with the Diablo

[@kkehoe5]

Buy one blade that I will need to spend more money on to have it sharpened, and also be without it for at least a week while it is shipped out of my shop, or buy four Diablo blades that can be swapped out in minutes and let you continue making sawdust? It’s a no brainer. You’d need at least two Forrest blades if you don’t want down time in your shop.

[@731Woodworks]

Exactly

[@carlomiranda3799]

Good point.

[@ramonartful]

Your video caught my attention. Couple things....One should never set a carbide toothed blade on a cast iron table. Carbide is extremely hard which makes it very brittle. You may not see the chips, but those sharp corners are susceptible to chipping against steel or cast iron. Even the smallest chip makes a negative difference. Now, not all carbide is the same. Forrest blades utilize c-4 (I believe) that is a much better/harder quality carbide than you’ll find with a $35 dollar blade. They can be sharpened many, many times. Tooth configuration is another factor. The WWII that you were using has a ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) grind. Designed for ripping with large gullets for chip clearance. However, that type of blade will cut plywood amazingly well because the wood fibers are severed by that sharp positive tooth angle. Forrest blades are what I use in my shop and have been for decades. Also, the overall quality of the runout is easily noticeable. In other words, they’re dead flat and true. A true test would have to have exact feed rates to be fair. Material that is fed too slowly through the cut can burn, even if the blade is new. There’s always a “sweet spot” for feed rate with most tools/machines. Anyway, I like Diablo for the price...but only use em for rough carpentry work...or on my Skilsaws. Just my two cents...thanks for the video.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you for sharing the info!

[@markpuente5569]

Matt, thanks for the shoutout to Working The Grain hardwoods variety pack! A virtual fist bump back to you bro. Keep up the great content and educate us all! WTG Hardwoods

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you 👊🏻

[@jimgott119]

Totally agree. I have a SawStop and it’s much easier and quicker to change blades. I use Diablo blades and get great cuts. I use a 24 tooth rip blade for ripping and a 60 or 80 tooth for other cuts. The 24 tooth rip blade is extremely smooth and delivers excellent results with no resistance. Another consideration is that if I ever get a brake activation it’s a lot less to replace a Diablo than a more expensive blade.

[@Pauken11]

One reason that the Forrest burned is the tooth geometry. The Forrest teeth are parallel and polished on the sides where the Diablo teeth are beveled on the sides for more clearance in the kerf.

[@731Woodworks]

Thanks for the info

[@vampirejesus8170]

The thing with the more expensive blades is you can get the thin kurf which cuts a lot faster through hard woods. But you have to watch out with your riving knife. I think on the delta it is made for a full kurf saw blade. But dont take my word for it. I am going from memory so could be way off. LOL I have the same delta saw and I love it with the diablo blades.

[@731Woodworks]

Thanks

[@lannettelaforge9537]

I'd be interested in seeing what the results would be after using each of them for a couple months or so. Not that I'm anywhere near the $150 blade stage yet. I've still got my woodworking training wheels on. 😆

[@731Woodworks]

lol

[@markkrotchen8921]

Don't be afraid to buy it I bought my first one about 20 years ago I have four of the woodworker II and several other Forrest blades until they come out with something better I refuse to buy anything else

[@markkrotchen8921]

I used my woodworker 2 blade everyday in my shop and only send them out to be sharpened after 3 to 4 months worth of use a cut primarily Hardwoods such as red oak and hard maple touch me don't be afraid of the blade LOL

[@michaelbevansiii17]

I have been using DeWalt blades for the past ten years,they offer a extremely good quality cut of hardwood and plywood for the money. I use DeWalt blades on all three of my miter saws ,on my 10 inch 12 in and my table saws and my radial arm saws with no problem

[@rtgray7]

I'd like to see more videos like this! That fence on your table saw looks like the ones on $3500 saws. Saving up to get me one. Thanks.

[@731Woodworks]

thanks. It's a nice saw

[@ciphercode2298]

If you can find them in stock,his is a delta 36-725. I bought the slightly newer 36-725t2 model that's 15amps instead of 13,and it has the thin strip ripping attachment on the fence. Its hands down the best saw in that price range($599). If you decide to get one,do yourself a favor and order the dado insert for another $39 on lowes website. I also recently found and bought an old craftsman moulding head cutter and it fits through the dado insert whereas many dado inserts are to narrow for a moulding head cutter. My saw has been dead on accurate and solid as a rock for over a year now. Hope you enjoy yours.

[@TransplantHelper]

We used FORREST blades in the cabinet (high production) industry. The biggest difference wasn’t cut quality for us but they had heavier carbide so they could be sharpened many times before needing to be retoothed.

[@tedalmeida]

I'd love to see the same test and include a 7 1/4" circular saw diablo blade on the tablesaw.

[@731Woodworks]

Would it fit?

[@MrJmwkdw]

@@charlieodom9107 I use a 7 1/4" Diablo on my TS when ripping and it makes a world of a difference. and thanks again Matt for another great video

[@wcknuth]

If you can get your hands on a CMT orange chrome 40 tooth general purpose blade, I think you will enjoy it better than either of these. I have crosscut blades and rip blades that I used to switch out a dozen times on my projects. I put that blade in my saw and forgot to change it out and it performed just as good or better than the specialty blades did. You can find it online for $65 or less.

[@731Woodworks]

I need to check that out. I've gotten several recommendations for that.

[@treywalker8344]

I've actually had good luck with an Irwin Marples blade from lowes

[@731Woodworks]

nice

[@alexalan9017]

i used to work in saw sharpening and repair that stuff around the blade (cant remember what its called its been a few years) its to prtect the tct tips in transport they break very easy if knocked

[@731Woodworks]

thanks

[@michaelparcus3625]

I’ll never be without my Forrest.

[@731Woodworks]

👊

[@padraics]

Other than the tooth count, it probably would have been good pick a diablo that's same kerf size. Woodworker II is 0.125" and d1060x is 0.98" so you'll obviously have less resistance using a thin kerf blade on a 120v saw. Also, the Forrest can resharpened about 15 times for $15-20, and even get broken teeth repaired for a few dollars. Regardless, CMT makes really high quality blades with huge carbide for not much more than diablo.

[@simplereflectionofchristianity]

haha I can't even get my head around those expensive blades LOL not only can I not afford them I to use Diablo and the same one for quite some time now and have even cut through a screw not intentionally and its still cutting good not great as before but I would still be kicking myself had I done that on a $150.00 blade LOL

[@731Woodworks]

For sure they are very expensive

[@aaronm8046]

It probably bound up because you had the blade too low. The pros say you want the last tooth on the down turn to be outside of the wood. This means you want your highest tooth of the blade to be apx 3/8, 1/2" above the cut depth. This helps clear chips, reduce heat, and help with kickback! Good video!

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@huejanus5505]

I was reading what the manufacturers of blades were saying on blade height. They say the bottom of the gullet should be level with the top of the wood for the blade to work as designed.

[@CycoBillywoodworking]

try a ridge carbide blade and start wearing your dust mask with these woods your lungs cost more than any saw blade

[@731Woodworks]

thanks

[@dragonetti25]

Pshh, saw dust makes you 💪. Guess bullying is bad too?

[@thedesertworkshop]

To me it looked like the kerf of your blades were different. The Forest is taking a lot of wood out at one time (better for more hp saws) The Diablo was taking out less wood... The thin kerf will help when you only have a 2hp saw or less. This is why I bought the Spyder blade rather than the manufacture blade. Thanks for doing this video!

[@GraffWoodshop]

Been waiting on this one!

[@731Woodworks]

👊🏻

[@kennysoutherland9801]

Get a magnetic wand for when you drop the nut down in your table saw dust collection. Much easier than fishing it out by hand. You can get one that is good enough at Harbor Freight for $3.

[@seanbrotherton542]

The Forrest blade has a much higher amount of carbide on the teeth and is able to be sharpened numerous times. It will far outlast your next $150 in diablo blades. At this level woodworkers are likely sharpening the blades themselves.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you for the info

[@quirkygreece]

Yup - I’m definitely in the “disposable” blade camp here. It’s less hassle to just buy a new blade than to send it off and wait for it to come back, plus, of course, you need another blade to use while you’re waiting, so for a Forest blade it’s not $150 but $300.

[@lonewolfwoodworks6802]

"Ripping boards and praising the lord!"

[@lonewolfwoodworks6802]

Your welcome lol

[@731Woodworks]

ha, that is fantastic!

[@billmoore6411]

Thanks for posting this! It's time for me to change my saw blade on my table saw. And I recently purchased a 5 1/2" 20V Porter Cable saw that needs a blade, because the one that came with it doesn't cut worth a flip. I now know which brand to get for both of these.

[@731Woodworks]

Glad I could help

[@josephgraham1065]

I dont think it was a fair test with the tooth count being different, That being said no way I can afford 150 for blade.... Diablo yes

[@731Woodworks]

👍🏻

[@nathanharrison6128]

I am not sure if you have the same type a table saw. But on the job site saw that I use. I can get the bolt off and back on easy when I raised the blade completely up. You might have already done that possible

[@woodworker11641]

I have Ridge Carbide, they are better in my use than Forrest, I had a Forrest blade, but fell victim to a Saw Stop Brake activation, I do have cheaper blades, I firmly believe that if you don't want to buy new blades more frequently, first clean your blades and take care of them. I use some Bosch, Diablo, Irwin, etc. all good blades just may not last as long and may have to change a little more frequently . Great & fair comparison

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@BPinney]

Long time Freud customer. Love having a good ripping blade and a good plywood blade. And I don't mind it when I need to replace them

[@davidbryanwoodworksandmore]

I’ve not had good results from Freud Diablo blades. But I only tried miter saw 80 tooth and up. I prefer the Forrest and Freud industrial blades. Much better results and durability. Diablo maybe for skil saw for framing or metal cutting.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@timm3792]

Yes the $150 Dollar Blade is worth it. Here's why: - It can be re-sharpened for $20.00 by the manufacturer. Generally, this can be done 10 to 20X before the blade has to be replaced so more often than not it will last for decades vs buying a new Diablo blade 2 to 4 times per year (depending on use). Primarily I use Ash (Similar to Oak in hardness and grain pattern and Black Walnut at about an 80%, 20% ratio). - Cost: I go through 500 to 750 board feet per year and would typically buy a new Miter and Table saw blade 2.5 X per year on average meaning $44*2.5=$110 plus 40X2.5=100 thus $210 in Miter/Table Saw blades per year. - Since I upgraded two years ago I've spent ($130 + $150 two years ago as the initial investment) and didn't have to buy replacements in the last year. The claim is they will last 3 to 5 years before needing to be sharpened and so far so good. I use a 1.75 HP Cabinet Saw. - It provides a better quality cut which (if your fence is properly aligned to the blade, mine is within .010 inches total across the fence) means it eliminates blade chatter, scorching, tear out and burning when cutting. The blade is stable and remains true when cutting provided it is set to the proper cutting height meaning the blade height extends beyond the thickness of the wood by at least ½ the depth of the gullet preferably by the depth of the entire gullet. - I no longer use a jointer for glue ups as the blades leave the edge smooth and flat. When I upgraded to a .125 Kerf Professional Blade I was blown away by the results and difference in the cut to the extent that I also bought a box joint blade (flat top) and a miter blade. So as you can imagine I am wondering why you didn't experience the same which suggests something may be a little off so please accept the following considerations" I am not familiar with Forrest Blades and do not know if that was bare steel or coated with a friction resistant clear coat which seems to be a thing these days which I avoid because of my preferred method of cleaning (see below). I only buy Ridge Carbide blades these days with the results described above. The table saw blade is $130 and not $150. Miter Saw Ridge Carbide Blade was $150. In reference to your testing: You really need to check your fence to blade to miter slot alignment, you shouldn't be getting burn with any new blade. Also may I recommend checking your blade height, it looks like you keep it just above the height of the wood meaning the teeth are buried in the wood thus the blade is constantly in contact building heat which can cause a blade to warp out of true ever so slightly, especially for the hard wood varieties. If you notice burn increasing with heavy use cutting hard wood this is an indicator that alignment is out. Pine is soft and generally wet this it can easily hide blade to fence alignment and cutting height concerns. The edge of the rip should be flat and smooth with no chatter marks (blade marks). I use a dial indicator that locates in the miter slot of my table saw as a way to ensure the blade, fence are aligned (parallel). Yeah, many with tell you a 64th scale will be accurate enough but I found that not to be the case and a fence typically has the fine adjustments to be much more accurate than 1/64th on a cabinet saw. Finally, on keeping the blades clean: I turn a 5 gallon bucket upside down and set the blade down then add Simple Green which is aggressive enough to attack the pitch but gentle enough not to harm the blade. Let it soak 10 to 15 minutes, scrub in a circular motion with a plastic bristle brush. Rinse with hot water, then coat the blade with Johnsons Paste Wax or for extended storage use the T9 Spray. Appreciate all you do and share. Hope this helps, don't give up on the quality blades - you should be blown away by the result. If alignment is good, and height is compensated and you still get the burn then maybe it's the blades - again, not familiar with Forrest but I am with Diable, Freud, Dewalt and various big box brands. A true professional blade saves me time and money how much will depend on frequency of re-sharpening which I am in the process of confirming.

[@731Woodworks]

thank you

[@robertmerrill4326]

Freud makes 2 lines of saw blades, industrial and Diablo. They cut identically, both have the same tri-fusion bonding of carbide, and perma shield coating. They are alike in every aspect expect the Diablo line is about 1/2 the price. The difference is in the amount of carbide. The Diablos are designed for the contractor who disposes the blade when it gets dull, while the industrial line is designed for multiple sharpenings. You can sharpen a Diablo if its not too bad, but the industrial will last a lifetime. I pay $10 to sharpen a 10" some charge by the tooth. Make sure you take your blade to a Freud knowledgeable sharpener so they know not to damage the coating. I buy Diablos for cutting hardie board and steel. Happy cutting.

[@731Woodworks]

thanks for sharing

[@Dolamite314]

I'm new to all this. Bought a house last year and went out and got what I think is a decent miter saw to do some upgrades to the house. My boss at my job told me to get a Diablo blade. Said I wouldn't regret it. Man.... it cut so much smoother than the stock blade. I was sold. Diablo is the way to go in my book.

[@mattmayes599]

I'm pretty sure the reason why there was more burn marks with the Forrest blade is that it is a full kerf blade. The Diablo's are thin kerf blades. Full kerf blades need a certain amount of HP in a saw to work well. If the saw isn't strong enough it will bog down and cause burn marks among other things. Thin kerf blades are for lower powered saws. The carbide teeth are much thicker on the higher priced blades. Thanks for the great videos and info 👊👍

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you for the info

[@mountainsagewoodworks4663]

I use a 40T flat grind Ridge Carbide and Amana for dado and other similar cuts. For ripping and cross cuts Diablo.

[@731Woodworks]

Nice

[@benkesler3139]

Forrest Blades are incredible. You’ll get the same result as cut #1 and #1000. Glad for the video but not a realistic comparison. US Made and lifetime free sharpening. I’ve had mine resharpened every 6-12 months with heavy use. Cost of ownership is probably cheaper when looking at it over several years with an amazing result in quality.

[@731Woodworks]

thank you

[@CorwinBos]

I dont own any Forrest blades, so I have no dog in that fight. However, my findings are the same, the Diablo is an excellent blade for the money, especially the flat top tooth rip blade. I also own a couple of Amana's, good stuff there too for a decent price and excellent for cutting up plywood.

[@731Woodworks]

👊🏻

[@starseeddeluxe]

Something that most people don't realize; the Forrest blades don't have any anti-kickback raker teeth, only cutting teeth. On a miter saw or radial arm saw, if you don't have the anti-kickback rakers, it means the blade can go into a runaway climb or kickback easier. All 40 tooth Diablo blades have raker teeth that limit the bite, just like a chainsaw chain. If you push your saw too hard, the non-cutting raker teeth will prevent the blade from grabbing too much material and going into a kickback or (climb on a radial arm saw).

[@michaeltippit9742]

FYI The dust collection shroud has tabs on the side that pull up and allow the side to open and give you room to add and remove blades. Thanks, awesome content.

[@bradymiguel]

I buy all Diablo cutting implements. I bet the expensive blade would probably last longer because they’re known to use a TON of carbide on their teeth. But when most people think their saw blade is dulling, it usually just needs a good cleaning. But you can also send your carbide toothed Diablo blade in for service and sharpening. Most people don’t know that.

[@randyp792]

I’ve been a woodworker for over 45 years , while I don’t use Diablo because I don’t like thin kerf I highly recommend Freud blades of any type, they are half the cost of forest and in my opinion out preform them hands down and are also can be re sharpened many times

[@731Woodworks]

Awesome

[@robh063]

I bought a HERCULES 10" 40T General Purpose Carbide Saw Blade from Harborfreight for $20 with a coupon and it's been fine for months. It says right on their website to "Compare to DIABLO D1040X"

[@731Woodworks]

nice

[@richardpearcey]

I have the Hercules on my chop saw and it cuts great.

[@adammacdonald5187]

Canadian prices of tools and goods always drives the price up for name brands. At my Local Home Depot the Diablo blades are $70-80 Depending on tooth count, and amazon $60-70. This all being in CAD, with the exchange they are quite a bit more expensive them some Brands you can buy in two packs for $40-50. I use reclaimed wood and tend to sometimes miss nails when pulling or sometimes don’t see them and run them into my saws. I do see Diablo has great blade reviews overall, I’ll have to pass on using them for the mentioned reasons as they do cost quite a bit more. And a better blade does get nicked just as easy as a cheap one sadly. But that’s part of the cost of using old wood. Thanks for the review and the content as always.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@dottyjyoung]

Ok, this makes me happy--that Chechen has 2x the hardness of black walnut. My table saw was binding up all day yesterday on some reclaimed wood, & it drove me nuts.

[@tc10219]

The blade looked a little low on the pine cut which might have been why it boged up with the Forrest. All I know about the Forrest is that the have extra carbide so they can be resharpened multiple times

[@731Woodworks]

👍🏻

[@richardfowler3254]

I am a Diablo fan as well, most of us do not have really expensive woodwork tools and there is so much other things I could buy with $150. My personal table saw cost the same as 2 of the Forest blades. I will bet the Forest has a thicker kerf than the Diablo and what I have been told is that a thicker kerf is nice on a cabinet saw. Also, the material on the Forest was to protect the blade tips for shipping and storage to keep the teeth from getting a "ding" and possibly making the blade wobble...

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@Lonestar-1984]

Diablo is my go to for everything. Circular saw blades, sand papers, spade bits, jigsaw blades, and recip blades. All excellent

[@731Woodworks]

Awesome

[@mmccasli7724]

I have the same saw. If you raise the blade all the way up, it is much easier to put the arbor nut on.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@soujrnr]

As a rank amateur, I think I'd rather see this done with identical blades just because I don't know what I don't know about a number of things mentioned in the comments by others. I think the last blades I bought were Dewalt, and they seem to be working quite well. I am going to try the Diablo next time around. Thanks for the review though. It has caused me to look more into what makes one blade better than another, as well as the various uses they are suited for.

[@MarkCoulter801]

I would think the Forest Woodworker II would be better. I think the tolerances are better. Very interesting video I have been saving up for new saw blades. They weren't Forest but are in the same price range. I will give the Diablo blades a shot.

[@731Woodworks]

Let me know what you think about Diablo if you get them.

[@rjmaloney7295]

I use the expensive blades. You can get them sharpened a lot. I have a two blade rotation, when one gets dull it gets sent to get sharpened for about $15. I have had the same two blades for 3 years and I use my table saw every day.

[@731Woodworks]

That would make a difference

[@robohippy]

I do have one of the Forrest blades. Most of my others are the Freud combo blades, alternate tooth bevel with raker teeth. I did not really notice much difference. One thing that surprised me with the Forrest blade, I sent it to my sharpener rather than sending it back to them. It came back sharper than it was from the factory. Oh, Chechen wood is also known as 'poison bark tree'. I have played with it some, and didn't react to it. The bark can cause blisters. That silicone or wax is what I am used to, is for edge/tooth protection.

[@mccmike]

You should really see if you can fine a shop that does precision sharpening. My Dad, before he died, sharpened blades. He made sure angle was correct and the amount of set on conventional blades were set within tolerances. He had carpenters both framers and finish carpenters from two counties away brought their blades to him to sharpen. One of them commented that the blades he sharpened were much better that brand new blades and much cheaper too. Love your channel. Keep up the great work.

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you

[@GNG-pv8kx]

Best test ever. I would've said the same thing. That is a very reasonable answer for everyone. 4.2 Diablos...... you right

[@raymondjoseph7177]

Most honest answer I've seen yet. As you said, for the products your making it's a no brainer. I honestly feel the same about festool. You see guys online with $5000 table saws making $100 cutting boards. Then you watch a guy in the Amazon make a cutting board with a rock and some sand and realize it's not the big $$$ tool all the time.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

I could skip the $150 and if I really wanted a super smooth cut could pick up a block of wood with fine sandpaper or a plane and run it over the edge. And use the save money to buy a tool. Or like my grandfather did , he used to sharpen them himself. It’s amazing what you learned when you were born nearly 100 years ago. Back in the days when you built tools from scrap metal during the depression because raw materials were not available.. or during the war when tour manufacturers were shifted over to making parts for the war machine movement and stop making tools for the general public. I still have my grandfathers tablesaw Store Sears & Roebucks 1932. One piece cast-iron table weighs 158 pounds by itself without the motor and stand.

[@731Woodworks]

That’s awesome

[@jordanrandall6326]

Or you could glue some sandpaper on the side of your saw blade to do it all at once. Cut and sand. Seen a video on it with John Heisz.

[@731Woodworks]

I saw that too

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@jordanrandall6326 Cool thanks I will do that

[@64maxpower]

I was part of a crew installing kitchens in a hi rise in NYC. The cabinets were a gel coat . Cutting fillers we would use the Diablo Blades. They were excellent. Any cheaper blade chipped cuts after one apartment, and Diablo Blades lasted for 2 floors of Kitchens. And would still be good for cutting anything that didn't have a hi dollar finish. Can't beat those blades.

[@731Woodworks]

Awesome!

[@andrescruz7969]

I work at Forrest manufacturing and we do servicing on all blades if there's not too many broken tips..

[@davidperfette1425]

I briefly looked over the comments and one thing I didn't see is that when ripping you want 3 to 5 teeth to be in the wood at any given time to avoid burning. It looks like with both blades you kept about the same amount of blade exposure above the wood you were cutting. Given that the Diablo had more teeth in the stock than the Forrest, that puts the Diablo at more of a disadvantage, which translates to another plus to the Diablo. In my experience with Freud blades, they give just as good of a cut, though maybe not so much through knots. But here's the big difference for me, the Forrest blades last a very long time, and if you treat them right, you're not going to be sending them back to Forrest for sharpening very often. Also, the Forrest blade has more carbide and it is a higher grade, hence, less need for sharpening. Forrest also makes sure that sharpened/repaired blades come back to you as good as new. Further, the Forrest blades retain their value for a long time. I just sold my two 23 yr old thin kerf Forrest blades, as I upgraded to a Sawstop 3hp model, for $125, about half of the original price I paid for them at the time. I am a fairly advanced woodworking hobbyist so they got a lot of use over that time. Lastly, the Forrest is more versatile than the Diablo so you won't need as many blades - less money spent. But yes, for a newbie i agree, the Diablo is a better choice.