99% of Beginners Don't Know These 5 Wood Finishing Secrets!

[@731Woodworks]

▼EXPAND FOR LINKS TO THE TOOLS▼ 🎥 Watch Next - How to Build the Table in this Video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/iX6mkGtrirGrl5o 🛠 Tools In This Video: CA Glue Brown - amzn.to/3J4EWW8 CA Glue Black - amzn.to/3QX8rer CA Glue Clear - amzn.to/3XqkhR1 Activator for CA Glue - amzn.to/3iTiWTw Sanding Contour Pad - amzn.to/3kypfMX Sanding Mouse - amzn.to/3kAhCFy Sand Paper I Use - amzn.to/3WmjPlm 3M Sander (Amazon) - amzn.to/3D6iiJf 3M Sander (TayTools 20% off) - lddy.no/1emh0 Kreg Project Blocks (Amazon) - amzn.to/3D62575 Kreg Project Blocks (Acme Tools) - imp.i284638.net/9WmAvY Microfiber Towels - amzn.to/3XPdi3U Mineral Spirits - amzn.to/3wiHad1 Pre-Stain Conditioner - amzn.to/3wp2228 Spray Laquer - amzn.to/3XQNNPD Laquer in Quart Can - amzn.to/3ktWjWi HVLP Sprayers - amzn.to/3QUco3y Stain I Used for Top - amzn.to/3ZW5z5F Stain for Base - amzn.to/3D49Gmi Gloves - amzn.to/3ZMysS1 Other Stuff In Video Tripod for my phone - amzn.to/3D1hohm Ball Head for Tripod - amzn.to/3QSv6c5 Phone Adapter for Tripod - amzn.to/3kvIeaQ Shirt I was wearing - www.kerusso.com/products/kerusso-christian-t-shirt-psalm-71?_pos=2&_sid=e9332a798&_ss=r Other Tools/Equipment I'm Asked About Often: Where I get my t-shirts (mostly) www.kerusso.com Toolbox in Background - homedepot.sjv.io/x9B2xy Tool Wall over Miter Station - amzn.to/3ZgWq7B Digital KZbin Sign - amzn.to/3GL2a2e (If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission) Other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe the 731 Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans: www.731woodworks.com/store use code 5NEWTOOLS to save 20% off your order. Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter

[@terrystucker6433]

hey, whats a good blade for a 12" miter saw (not sliding).

[@731Woodworks]

@@terrystucker6433 I like to use 80 tooth blades on my miter saw. CMT Chrome blades are my favorites.

[@erinbradshaw2900]

Hi Matt. Thank you for the helpful tips! Any suggestions if you don't want to stain the wood but just want to enhance/bring out the natural markings of the wood?

[@derrickwalker538]

Matt, this has nothing to do with woodworking but I am asking for you to lift me and my family up in prayer. I’ve been under a unmeasurable amount of stress from work, and I feel the Holy Ghost stirring in my spirit. I know I have backslidden and under conviction. We just now got back in church and the moment I walked in I felt an unexplainable load lifted off me! Just asking for prayers because I need all the help I can get to keep me dug in and stay planted in the Lords path!!! Thank you for all you do brother!!!!

[@derrickwalker538]

Matt, this has nothing to do with woodworking but I am asking for you to lift me and my family up in prayer. I’ve been under a unmeasurable amount of stress from work, and I feel the Holy Ghost stirring in my spirit. I know I have backslidden and under conviction. We just now got back in church and the moment I walked in I felt an unexplainable load lifted off me! Just asking for prayers because I need all the help I can get to keep me dug in and stay planted in the Lords path!!! Thank you for all you do brother!!!!

[@dennisehileman7592]

I use my sanding dust with wood glue to fill my knots or repairs. Let dry over night saves tons of money

[@reesemattison8519]

I can vouch for this statement. I do the same thing,and it works great.

[@victormatamoros8302]

Exelente comentario 😂

[@allangordon4585]

Hi Instead of using prestain which by the way is hard to find in the uk we tend to use teabags for pine and high tannin soft woods just get 2 teabags and put in a cup of warm water and leave till cool then paint on your pine and let dry this does 2 things it brings out the tannin in the wood and stops blotching especially on soft woods it also raise's the grain which you can sand down. Great videos by the way

[@mist4926]

can you show a video about this tea bag

[@sociopathmercenary]

​@@mist4926You may be thinking of a different kind of teabagging. 😂

[@kung_fu_panda_charles]

Nice

[@Gozeto17]

Here is a tip from a former aircraft painter. When ever you sand anything before you apply a coating, rub the item with tack cloth. It will remove all dust and leave a little residue to help apply your coating.

[@Michael_Print]

Before a tack cloth I take one of those blue paper towels you get at homedepot etc, wet it, strain as much water out as possible, and get most of the dust off that way. If it's something relatively small maybe just a tack cloth would do though

[@LucyKaboom]

Yup , I used to paint custom hot rods and tack rags are a must. Any time you sand, even between coats.

[@subphonic8585]

​@@LucyKaboomreusing same tack between grits?

[@brucehansen7949]

​@@subphonic8585maybe with bikes but with wood working there's no need to tack cloth between sanding grits, just blow it off with an air compressor it's good enough. Also Tack cloth really isn't that important if your just gonna use stain, you won't tell the difference if you use it or not as long as it's clean to start with, air compressor saves me a lot of money

[@tobeforgottenisworsethande8995]

Duhh

[@oldtireman4665]

When I worked in the mill room of a big door shop, we were constantly steaming out dings and divots, especially on the six panel pine doors. We used good ol’ brown paper towels, damp but not soaking wet and a hobby heating iron with a head about 1 1/2” by 3 inches. A household clothes iron with the steam turned off will do the same thing. Light sanding afterwards to knock down the raised grain is usually needed. We used to toss our stain rags in a five gallon bucket half filled with water.

[@marksherman3423]

We had a door shop and ran into the same problems. Rather than steam we'd use a wet sponge and squeeze water drops on the imperfections. After the grain raised and dried we'd sand it smooth. Amazing the size of imperfections that can be fixed by doing this.

[@KingsFineWoodworking]

I definitely love that Deft Satin Lacquer, probably my favorite, and definitely one of the easiest and most forgiving finishes. Great video!

[@731Woodworks]

Thank you!

[@brucehansen7949]

I read your shirt, I grabbed my Bible and started reading psalms 71 only 3 verses and I'm in tears, I love you brother thank you I needed that

[@731Woodworks]

Wonderful! 🙏

[@billcoggins593]

Actually you don't have to sand that spot back out. I was recently shown a tip in which we tore a piece of 120 grit sandpaper off of a used disc. We then dipped it in the stain and lightly sanded the spot with the stain on the paper, then wipe off the excess. Repeat until you get the desired color. It cleaned up my rookie mistakes pretty quickly, and there were several. Mistake 1 is real...avoid at all costs if possible! Titebond is water soluble when still wet, so as Matt shows, wiping squeeze out off with a damp paper towel or wet cloth fixes a lot of problems before they get going.

[@mattheffron391]

Great video, as usual. One tip that I've learned. If you want a matte or flat "clear" finish, use the gloss formulation for all but the final coat. This especially important if you're going for the "deep" look on the piece. (I mostly have done lathe turned projects where that's more common.) The matte and flat finish effect is accomplished by adding solids to the mix. Using that for all of the coats can make the final finish look a bit "muddy", or "cloudy", because of the extra solids in the undercoats.

[@Bobbyg2018]

I think this is the most helpful video I've seen of yours...and I've watched many of them! Thank you.

[@731Woodworks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@davide152]

Put your stain rags in a bucket of water when done. I've seen rags spontaneously combust in a matter of minutes if the sun is beaming on them. You can also spread them out to prevent combustion. Waded rags combust a lot easier.

[@fencepost5369]

Hello Matt thanks for the time you take showing and teaching about woodworking etc you make it simple to understand and very informative sincerely wishing you n family the best God Blessings to you folks

[@danmarshall5895]

For the clamp marks, I'm a fan of putting a wet rag over the mark and ironing it. The wood swells up and light sanding usually blends it right back to normal.

[@tchevrier]

That would be my suggestion also, because the wood is compressed in that area. Sanding isn't really a good way to get rid of those marks.

[@bonedaddy6583]

I consider myself a better finisher than builder, but I’m always learning, thank you very much. Years ago I turned a small store bought “pond” into one big enough for me to float around in and I was clueless. After watching video after video I found videos of what not to do. They helped tremendously, I rarely pass on videos like this.

[@TacoTeaser]

I've used newspaper as a fine sandpaper to brush off fine particles after finishing with laquer. Works great.

[@JasonPeltier]

Watch out that the inks don't stain the wood. I buy rolls of brown paper from the orange store to use as a final denibber

[@WondersInTheWasteland]

Thanks for all the pointers!

[@ahdam82]

Your real good at what you do. I just got a 45’x24’ workshop and I’ll put you on my flat screen while I’m working!

[@toddsanford7757]

thanks for not being annoying like most youtube videos these days. what kind of wood screws do you use? thanks for helping us new to woodworking.

[@haroldraceedge1168]

Lacquer is the choice of furniture makers. Dry time and Durability are the some of the reasons. I have used Deft Lacquer for years and have had great results spraying and brushing. Love the content, God Bless 731woodworks!

[@dymarke]

Regarding dry glue under stain, I use hide glue around finish surfaces whenever possible, even when dry it will clean up with water and doesn't show through stain. Also when staining I keep 220 sand paper handy and often you can wet sand the stain to make the glue spot disappear. It doesn't always work but its worth a shot to save a lot of work. Thanks for some great videos

[@haydenfrench8493]

So glad I checked out your video, it is EXCELLENT! Learned a couple of tricks particularly the contoured pad. I’m a pre-pre novice attempting to sand and finish my basement stairs so learning as much as possible before embarking. God bless.

[@ScottS360]

Wadding up oily rags then dropping them in a pile on top of dead leaves and dry pine needles seems like a recipe for starting a fire. I was always taught to lay rags flat until they're dry THEN dispose of them. My finishing projects tend to be small, so I can usually get away with draping rags around the top of a metal trash can (making sure there's no overlap) while they dry. I know some people who soak their rags in water, then wring them out, before lying them flat to dry. If I were using tons of rags during finishing, I'd probably buy one of those all-steel Justrite oily waste disposal cans.

[@gardening-in-the-woods]

Oily rags dumped into a trash can could result in a fire because there may not be enough air movement in the can to properly dissipate the fumes from the rags, causing them to self combust. Putting them outside in open air will solve this problem. Unless of course you make a huge pile of rags.

[@ScottS360]

@@gardening-in-the-woods the problem isn't fumes, it's the heat generated by the oils curing. Too many rags with too much oil in close proximity can generate enough heat to ignite the cloth. The resulting fire could ignite the other contents of your trash can (ex: wood scraps) or potentially even the can itself (if it's a flammable plastic or another flammable material). Purpose-built metal oily waste disposal cans, like the ones made by Justrite, limit the availability of oxygen (which is required for a fire to start) and contain that fire should the worst happen. Laying rags flat outdoors ON A NON-FLAMMABLE surface (like concrete or brick) is also an acceptable solution. Piling rags on top of dry leaves and dead pine needles, like Matt did, is the wrong way to go; that's the kindling I use when I'm TRYING to start a fire!

[@gardening-in-the-woods]

@@ScottS360 Perhaps I am a little off on the science, but my point is that if you have the rags outside where the air can cool any of the potential heat from oils curing etc. you have solved the problem. Confining the rags in an areas where they cannot vent is the problem. I always place my oily rags outside, usually hang them on something so they can air out, that way there is no possible way they can burn down my shop. Besides, why would you want to smell the stinky rags in your shop as they are drying.

[@ScottS360]

@@gardening-in-the-woods inside versus outside doesn't matter. A big pile of oily rags outside is just as likely to self-combust as a big pile of oily rags inside: chemical reactions don't stop just because you change their location. If you spread the rags out, either inside or outside, so the heat isn't allowed to build up you won't have any problems. If you put them in a sealed metal container which is designed to prevent fires, like the ones favored by larger and commercial shops, you're not going to smell anything until you open the lid on the container.

[@gardening-in-the-woods]

@@ScottS360 Sorry, I did not see a big pile of oily rags in the video. Just one rag and a pair of gloves. I appreciate your concern with regards to fire hazards,but investing in a commercial firesafe box for a couple oily rags a week doesn't make sense to me. Outside air is more than sufficient to mitigate any potential fire in this video.

[@jesterraj]

Caribbean viewer locked on....luv the tea...

[@brettbarager9101]

Good vid! I have been staining things for years. Good to know i have been doing (most!) things right! I really appreciate your deliberate mistakes. As a visual person, actually seeing the mistake is more concrete.

[@ocdtechtalk]

P-gun with a little bit thanks for hitting on the lacquer. I'm looking to make some corner shelving for some pots and pans instead of keeping them in my cabinets and I was worried about marring up the finish with the you know abrasiveness of the bottom of the pan. I was going to use polyurethane to seal it and to get some protection but I'm definitely going to use lacquer now. Appreciate it.

[@Boog7625]

Great video. One thing I suggest when spraying lacquer. Start spraying close to you, know continue your pattern across the table. When you do this, any overspray will melt back when you continue on spraying as you move forward.

[@small.garage.woodworking]

Great video. I feel like I made each of these mistakes when I started woodworking. Sometimes we learn our best lessons from our mistakes.

[@adkgaladkgal1799]

Thank you I will definitely try the lacquer looks great. Polyurethane has been my go to. I used to think lacquer left a yellow haze. I will try the spray. Thanks again.

[@FreedomNetwork99]

Great video. I learned so much from this single video. I've watched about 5 videos prior to this one. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@scottrisch9233]

Thanks Matt I have always done polyurethane and have never been satisfied with the finish going to try laquar

[@katieleonard6391]

Thank you! That answers many questions of flaws I've found on my projects. 👊

[@ahmedalsanea6079]

finally a good video other than product videos

[@jonmhayden]

I love the stains at Home Depot that state prestaining not required. They give a consistent stain on pine. I never use pre stain conditioner now.

[@michaelgodfrey9384]

Learned all of these issues the hard way on my early wood projects. Sanding the stain off and correcting the surface then re staining solved it. Lesson learned.

[@jeffvoght1632]

Man! I wish I had watched this. You said you will have hurt feelings... I started crying! Lol! Everything that I shouldn't have done... I did. I tried to sand it out. It was nearly impossible. I learned something the hard way. Great video.

[@sherrypersinger7056]

A trick I learned from my dad was using good old-fashioned brown grocery bags as sandpaper. It's my good to for a final sanding. Sounds crazy, but I dare anyone to try it. And they're free with a purchase of goods 😉

[@richardwang474]

Seriously? I'm pretty gullible lol.

[@PiermontChess]

its good for rubbing out a finish like lacquer to get a really smooth feel

[@sociopathmercenary]

Where are you getting free paper bags? If you're unfortunate enough to live in California, you don't even get plastic bags... Much less paper. My primary source of brown paper is the brown paper packing they use in shipments from some companies like Home Depot

[@MadAtMax.300Blackout]

why am I not surprised to hear some bulshit like you're forced to have to buy your own grocery bags in California wow @sociopathmercenary

[@robb2869]

Thank you Matt, great video as always. I made every one of those mistakes on my first build but I guess that's how we learn isn't it, that feeling of seeing glue show up after staining is just the worst isn't it but it sure makes you more careful on the next build! Applying masking tape around joints before applying glue can certainly help prevent nasty surprises! For those like me in the UK Rustins make a pre stain conditioner available from Amazon 👍 And as per another comment I also use teabag water which adds tannins to pine for a nice natural colour change. I leave two bags in a jar of water (doesn't have to be hot water cold works just as well) for several hours at least and just paint it on with a foam brush.

[@danalaniz7314]

, Excellent video. I wish I had seen this when I first started. I've made all of these mistakes but I still learned some tips from this video. Thanks!

[@frankfaherty2065]

Matt, New to woodworking. I really enjoy your videos. Very informative and easy to understand and apply. Keep up the good work. Frank in Missouri

[@russmartin4189]

You said it all! I want to add that for my huge interior shutter build, I used Minwax Honey Maple gel stain. Two years later we decided to put a wainscot behind the bed and wanted to match the shutters.Unfortunately, Minwax had discontinued the oil based gel stain and now only makes water based stain. That made me very concerned and I didn't want to try it. My wife didn't want me to spend $50 a can for discontinued stock and she didn't like the VOC's in oil based stain, so I was forced to give the water based stain a try. I called Minwax to see if they could match the oil stain with water based. They gave me the code number for honey maple water stain. I then went to the store, told them the code and they mixed me a can. I went home, coated a sample board, let it dry, then gave it a coat of poly. To my surprise, it looked exactly like the oil stain. Those Minwax scientists know what they are doing.To accomplish this, I went by the book. I sanded well. I used the grit paper they said to use, I used prestain conditioner for waterbased stain, etc. I can say now that I am not afraid to use their waterbased stain. It is also much easier to clean up and has very low odor. In the can, the stuff looks like melted icecream. I thought it wouldn't go far, so I bought a couple extra cans. Dumb, dumb, dumb. The coverage is exactly as they say. 125 sq. ft. per quart. Now I have two quarts extra at $25 per quart. When I first started woodworking I didn't buy prestain conditioner. I didn't want to spend the extra money and thought I could do it good without. WRONG. Prestain conditioner is required. You must use it or else all the time and money you have put into your project will be for nothing. Just do it. One other thing, As you use a can of satin poly, if you do not stir between uses, you will notice that later coats will become more glossy. Siir well every time you open the can.

[@JGWoodCraft]

I feel like you’re on the right track about lacquer but if you’re going to use a hvlp or a lvlp spray gun to spray go ahead and get precat lacquer from Sherwin Williams. It is much more durable and does not fog up on you like brushing lacquer. I started off spraying mixed down brushing lacquer and it’s not even close as to using precat lacquer. Also when thinning down lacquer consider using Acetone it will speed up the drying process. Hope this helps

[@charlesdamien5849]

I appreciate the fact that you have Ryobi tools littered throughout the video to show beginner woodworkers that they don't need professional tools to get started.

[@thenext9537]

For the CA, I use starbond as well. If you are doing knotholes, I suggest if it's big enough to do a seal coat, do it. Use cheap thin foam brush, seal coat and spray (very thin). What happens is it will bubble on you underneath if you just pour without seal (typically, not always!). Starbond will say one drop per square inch at most. This means it's not deep pour, so on a 1/2" knothole, if you pour it in there then hit it with the spray to set it you will get bubbles UNDERNEATH. What I suggest is you wait about 5-10 minutes and if a bubble appears hit it with a heatgun or a quick pass with a torch. Rinse and repeat for about 20 minutes or so, then set it and that normally is good.

[@tonyr3352]

The key is to avoid the extra sanding. Clamp marks can be avoided by simply making little squares with cork to protect the wood, especially soft woods. The tool marks on the legs should have been sanded before the assembly, it's a lot easier. A little more care up front means a lot less sanding.

[@kelleymcculla2691]

Thank you for the spray lacquer tip! You helped us Save our project!

[@edwardliu1154]

good collection of tips esp since it's project focused rather than just finishing or just sanding. For northeast and colder climates though lacquer has some downsides. Lacquer develops blushing more in the cold which really caused problems for my large cherry top table which I did in near zero degree temperatures in my garage. Also water rings showed up really easy on the lacquer surface. as you said the fumes lacquer causes are really bad esp in a garage workshop. I ended up sanding off the lacquer finish in spring and used wipe on poly which is much more forgiving than poly spray cans. I could never spray evenly with a spray can.

[@JGWoodCraft]

If you have a hvlp or lvlp sprayer you should try using precat lacquer. It is not only more durable but does not fog up like the wiping or spray can lacquer he uses here. I also thin my lacquer down with acetone not lacquer thinner it speeds the drying process up dramatically.

[@danwillett4481]

Good call on mentioning the rags catching on fire. I'm a professional painter and I've seen it happen to a few guys in the trades. I like to sumerge mine in a bucket of water

[@chrissnyder4439]

I know it was just for demonstration purposes, but I did giggle when he placed them on a bunch of dried leaves and pine needles.

[@princeofasgard9301]

Thanks dude. Very informational video.

[@tonydamian4896]

New sub from uk, great vlog thanks for the advice on staining, as they say we learn every day, the stain on the rags im sure when rolled up and bin tossed can act as a catalyst, heating up on curing, ive seen this happen before with contact adhesive, catches folk out. Stay safe & blessed

[@lechat8533]

You just gave me some information on Lacquer that I need to know. Thank you very much :)

[@craigmckinney2219]

let me point out one thing. Early in the video you show 2cans of stain. Varathane and Minwax. These are 2 completely different things. Minwax is a penetrating oil stain. You apply it it soaks in and that is it. That color is the color you will end up with. even mineral spirits won't effect it. Varathane, however is a pigmented oil stain. you put it on and wait then wipe off the excess. If it is too dark take some mineral spirits and you tone down the color. It won't all come off, but it is adjustable. Putting on more will give you a much darker version, not so with Minwax. Also, a dark color of the Varathane can be used to completely change the color of a stained piece. Also, a rag with mineral spirits can be used to blend the color with Varathane.

[@Pascosuburbanhomestead]

I just bought these plans and this is a project me and my two boys are building now. Thank you for the very informative videos.

[@adaptivediyers]

you are spot on with your wood glue/stain outcome

[@frankd8180]

Thanks for the info - always learning ! Be safe 😎

[@Ericrutledgebetter]

Love your channel and thanks for sharing all your info. Plus, I see your shirts. God bless brother!

[@FixItFrench]

😊Great tips, 👍🏼I use to get those wood glue spots all the time. Never even new until the stain was complete. Also I use a scrap piece between the project and the clamp. That way the clamp marks don’t show up

[@rRodFromMemphis]

Could you re do another project pricing video. I can't remember your last one but with 2023 rolling in and pockets are tighter than ever what do you suggest for pricing. Also, yes lacquer I use the cans but was wondering if I could do bigger projects with it I do have a Fuji paint sprayer for it.

[@westsideslide5873]

those colors look good together

[@DayTrader__]

Man, I just love your informational videos!!! God Bless Friend!!! 🙃

[@731Woodworks]

I appreciate that!

[@MrsEarth-pf4cr]

Thank you so much

[@sandiclements5376]

With lacquer do you not have to sand between each coat? Just before the last one? I've always used polyurethane but am definitely going to give this a try.

[@731Woodworks]

I just sand between the last one

[@sandiclements5376]

@@731Woodworks Thank you!!

[@rd1084]

Deft lacquer is excellent. Have used it a lot on furniture repurposing.

[@JasonPeltier]

I used to use only the spray cans. Now I buy it by the gallon and use a Critter sprayer. So much faster and cheaper.

[@louiswendlander9083]

This video was awesomely thorough! Thanks I learned a lot. :)

[@Sebastopolmark]

Hey Matt, that's a GREAT video. If we start with proper techniques when learning a trade, it will carry through as we grow. A simple stool it the perfect project to "test" your skills. Cheap-er to build, you end up with a usable project. Thanks again! !! !!!

[@jeffhester1443]

Great video, thank you. The colored superglue is something I have to try. Clear glue is visible even dabbing stain under it first.

[@joepangean6770]

For the clamp pressure marks, use a dampened rag and a hot iron to run over each depression. The steam will swell the wood fibers back to surface. Then do the sanding phase as typical. This trick also works on dents especially in softwoods.

[@jakelots]

Finally a KZbin woodworker used lacquer! FYI if you want better lacquer find yourself a Sherwin-Williams and get pre-catalyzed lacquer, you'll thank me later. Another Tip... Always, and I mean always add Lacquer Sanding Sealer to your finishing steps.

[@JasonPeltier]

Can you explain the difference between pre-cat and "regular" lacquer like Deft? I always hear that term but never what it means. And are they applied the same way?

[@jakelots]

@@JasonPeltier sure! Pre-cat (Catalyzed) lacquer is formulated with a substance that increases the rate of chemical reaction. This substance being the catalyst. Simply put, Pre-cat lacquer dries rediculously quickly and very hard in my experience. I find it extremely durable and moisture resistent compared to any other finish I have used on kitchen cabinets. This HAS to be specifically applied with a spray gun. It simply cures to quickly to brush. Most lacquers I would not recommend using a brush unless specifically specified as "brushing". Hope this answers your question!

[@sanjesco]

Absolutely awesome brother.. thanks for sharing!!

[@LiftRanger]

Thank you, Matt.

[@robertrohler3644]

great educational video. thank you keep up the good work

[@wolverine1694]

Can you put lacquer over linseed oil ? .. I like the way linseed oil looks on quarter sawn oak..gives it a rich look... thanks and God bless

[@MrBeanwilder]

I checked your description but couldn't find it. What respirator do you use? Looks a ton more comfortable than what I've ever found. Thanks for the great info!

[@fishhuntadventure]

4:17 I don’t sand edges with a machine/electric sander- especially on softwoods. I use fine sandpaper wrapped around various harder and softer rubber blocks. This creates a flatter, straighter surface without risking variation in the texture or appearance. This is how auto body professionals get perfect looking panels and edges. It only takes a minute or two and that’s virtually the same time an electric sander would take. As a professional that’s the method I’ve been using for interior trim, doors, furniture, and kitchen cabinets for 30 years- even ‘soft’ edges come out clean and straight every time 7:14 I think the process of applying stain does have some ‘tricks’ to make a project come out looking better. While it is true that there is no film thickness benefit with flooding on stain finishes like there are with ‘oil’ finishes, using a nice-quality china bristle brush makes the work go quickly and then you can use the brush “unloaded” to pick up excess and return it to the can but more importantly leaving an even, visually appealing color distribution. Wait a few minutes and rag off any pooling in corners or molded edges and you’ll always have well above average results.

[@richpeggyfranks490]

How refreshing to see a KZbin about finishing wood without seeing Rubio being "squeegeed" all over the piece. Thank you for presenting a real world video. I have tried many finishing techniques over the last 50 years and have finally settled on the basic processes you described. One alternative is to use Zinnser Seal-Coat shellac as a sanding sealer instead of the Minwax conditioner (although it does work pretty good). Also, to produce a really smooth finish, like a table top, as a final step I like to apply wax with 0000 steel wool and then buff it out. That removes the last of the nibs, it's not wet so additional nibs can't stick to it and it leaves a very smooth finish that's nice to touch. Thanks and God bless.

[@bonedaddy6583]

I’ve never used a wax finish. I just restored the wood on. 1946 slot machine, and I was looking for tips on wax when I found this video. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

[@richpeggyfranks490]

My 2 cents - put on your favorite stain or finish. I usually use hard wax oils (General Finishes) or shellac. If desired, you don't need any finish under the wax. There are tinted waxes. Lightly sand to 220. Clean with mineral spirits. "Scrub" on the paste wax (I like Briwax) with a white Scotch-Brite pad or 0000 steel wool. Buff with a terry cloth towel. Apply additional coats of wax for more shine. Good luck. Your project sounds cool. @@bonedaddy6583

[@username14219]

My alternative to the pre-stain is to use a black tea "stain". Boil 1 cup of water, pour the water into a sealable container like a mason jar, add 10 bags of Black tea and let it steep for 1 hour. Let it sit for at least 12 hours before use. Apply with a sponge brush. The big caveat is that it WILL get moldy over time, so maybe refrigerate it between uses. It helps even out the color of the stain you'll use and is best for reddish or dark stains. I've never tried it with a light color stain.

[@username14219]

I've had great results with this for stove top covers and shelves I've made

[@JasonPeltier]

I use this on pine for the weathering "stains". They work with tannins and pine doesn't have many. Black tea to the rescue!

[@nicoson9578]

thanks fior the Vid gave me some insight of what i need to do but i had a question.....Can i use the lacquer on stair steps? will the lacquer hold from the traffic?

[@ThePackman627]

For the spray can lacquer, I understand sanding between coats. But do I sand after I've applied the final coat? If so what do I use? Because I still feel the nibs

[@mertz7305]

Thanks for the tips brother. Love your shirt.

[@kenerickson4923]

I like to use the Starbond pump activator instead of the aerosol version. It is much more economical.

[@larrybrown1824]

Nice vid. Thank you.

[@bushrat]

Very complete and well presented

[@731Woodworks]

Glad you liked it!

[@GoMandiMartin]

This is so great! Thanks a million! 😀

[@watermain48]

Very informative. Thanks Matt.

[@2point..0]

@731 Woodworks Cant you use a clothing Iron to release the dents (or clamp mark) to the surfaces, prior sanding???

[@731Woodworks]

yes you can

[@kimberlythompson1835]

Loved it! ❤ I struggle with over sanding and using too low a grit. Do you have videos to help with that?

[@juancolina7015]

Thanks for sharing! Great advice...

[@treypesek6462]

Great tips! Honest question, does stain go bad?

[@MadAtMax.300Blackout]

Thanks for this video

[@gebronthomasson6960]

Thanks for the video..very informative for us beginners (we’ll actually less than a beginner…🙄Just ordered my Dewalt 735x be here tomorrow and my Craftsman jointer will be here Friday..)Thanks again

[@731Woodworks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@TheRealHatchwood]

I love your little stand there however the bottom two boards in the center I would have stained them a dark color aswell. Sure it would take a little more time but in the end I believe it would make the colors pop out better :)

[@mikefitzpatrick5209]

Nice video as always. question, when I use pocket screws I have an issue with the target piece wanting to walk away as the screw goes in. in most cases I can clamp the two pieces so this doesn't happen. what do you do to prevent this with pieces you can't clamp?

[@stephenstanley9500]

Really enjoyed the 2 instructional videos on this table.I learned a lot.And some things that made me think"that's why that happened." Thanks

[@731Woodworks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@JuxstGaming]

Wet Sanding can also give you a flawless smooth finish. Can add a little shine too. Try Wet Sanding. Water spray while sanding.

[@TruthSurge]

3:50 and if you sand it, you won't need to worry about any glue left on it, right?

[@victorfernandez915]

Very well explained and very professional, thanks a lot!

[@jimtongas821]

Awesome tips. Much appreciated. 👍

[@halsonger1317]

To really get a smooth finish with lacquer, give the final coat a couple of hours to cure and then crumple up some craft paper or a brown paper sack and buff it lightly. That will smooth out any tiny nibs that might have popped up from dust (or pollen if you are spraying outside) and make the satin finish even more satin-y.

[@NeilSedlak]

I picked up a tip to use white 3M scrubbing pads. I use one to hand buff between each coat, and also on the final coat, and the difference in smoothness is very noticeable. I'd only use sand paper if I had to fix a run or remove something stuck in the finish.

[@DayTrader__]

I’m going to stick to 731’s tips 😂. If you guys make a video of your tips to show us let us know! I’d love learning but I’m a more of a prove it to me kinda guy than a type it in and I don’t know what’s gonna happen! Hehe.

[@scottswannie2500]

I’d agree. Matt confirms it.

[@scottmorris4914]

@@DayTrader__ Test it. Why not. There are going to be lots of things you will want to do, and should test it first.

[@AfterBurn65]

This does work

[@johnisley4578]

Very informative once again, Cheers

[@timelessroyalestudio]

Greetings from Croatia Is there anything special you do with project that goes to customer in different climate and humidity zone Thanks

[@scottbionicnerf8727]

I'm a Body Repair Man by trade. I live to sand.😎 I tell you from experience, even if you blow that sanding dust will be in them corners and crevices if you don't use a rag/towel along with the compressed air, then go back and double check for lint, and try not drip any sweat on it while you're at it.