1977-1982 Corvette AC Heater Panel

Even though there are slight differences between 77-79 and 80-82 A/C and heater control panel assemblies, they are very similar, so this video should help you understand both.
Having said that, if you need to replace yours, buy the right one for the year of your Corvette.
In this video, I completely disassemble the HVAC panel of my 1981 Corvette. The panel includes AC controls (Off, Max, and Norm), Economy controls (Vent, Htr, Def), a sliding temperature selector from Cold to Hot, and a 4-speed fan switch.
Many aftermarket parts vendors sell replacement components such as vacuum and fan switches, levers, faceplates, and more, so depending on what is wrong with yours, you may be able to repair it properly and save money.
Complete new HVAC panel assemblies retail (as of this writing), from $150 to $200, so they're not unreasonably priced. But if all you need is a $20 part to get yours repaired, you may want to opt for the cheaper alternative.
Another option is purchasing a good OEM HVAC panel from a salvage yard. Just know that you will be taking chances when you do this as the plastic of 40-plus-year-old parts will not age well, resulting in brittle or cracked components.
I hope you find the video helpful if you want to repair your Corvette's air-conditioning and heater panel.
Thank you for watching! 🙂👍🏻
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DISCLAIMER: Even though I like to wrench on my Corvettes and most of my videos are of a how-to nature, I am not responsible nor liable should you decide to follow my musings on the subject.
I am a DIYer, and the repairs and work shown are for my benefit and entertainment. If videos appear to give technical how-to advice, that is not my intention.
Working on a vehicle can be dangerous. If you're not confident, qualified, or lack the tools to do the job correctly and safely, hire a mechanic.

[@nafex3740]

Nice work buddy 👏 Excellent !!!

[@jackcarroll8709]

Over the years, I've learned that disassembly of these 40 plus year plastic parts usually leads to more breakage than I started with no matter how surgical I am in the disassembly process. Perhaps because of my age and not being as flexible as I once was, I tend to avoid dash work as much as possible so if a suitable replacement assembly is available, I just do the whole thing one time instead of going back in to repair the next broken piece that inevitably fractures soon after the first repair is completed. I know lots of folks appreciate your component tear downs and for folks who want originality, are on a tight budget, who can still squeeze under and around the dash, obviously the repairs make sense.

[@76vette]

Absolutely! These cars become brittle with age. And I hope that some of my videos are also helpful to C3 Corvette owners who live in other countries where parts availability can be difficult or excessively expensive. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻

[@kokoshadowstryder9020]

Yes, that little plastic clip for the vacuum switch for the HVAC tends to break a great deal and cause a vacuum leak when switching and/or opening/closing the vents on the firewall and/or A-Pillars of the birdcage. I got fed up to the point where the last time I open it up, I put a light coating of dielectric grease on the disc, and put it back together with a flat machine screw, a thin wacher to fit inside the depression, and a lock nut to keep it together. It has held up for 3 years, so far. Just as a side note if it hasn't been mentioned: I've found DeoxIT D100L to be the BEST stuff that I've stumbled across, for gentling cleaning all of the fragile electrical connectors. From the wiring harness to the car audio system connectors. WELL worth the price when working on classics.

[@76vette]

Yes, I’ve seen a similar repair and as long as it works it’s all good. Also thanks for the tip on the DeoxIT D100L. I bookmarked it on Amazon and may try it in the future. amzn.to/3Q8SdyY Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻

[@musclecarmitch908]

Great informative video! Very beneficial to have information like this to go to and reference when doing your own! Thanks for making these great videos!👍

[@76vette]

Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻

[@danorourke5184]

I’m going to replace my control plate because mine is faded and worn, now I know how. Thanks so much!

[@76vette]

Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻

[@fuzter2007]

Excelente video! Please, a new one with the correct assembling of the pieces! I learn a lot with your videos

[@76vette]

Coming up October 21st! Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻

[@brianwilson415]

Hello there I have a 80 Vette I am going to attempt putting a new temperature control panel in. My question is do you have to take the. Center gauge cluster out to install new panel? Thank you for any guidance. Brian

[@76vette]

Hi Brian. No, you do not have to remove the center gauge cluster, but you will need to remove the console which is a PITA job. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gX3boKJqpKh9h5I Just take your time and don’t rush the process. It is a big and involved job, but doable. Good luck! 😊👍🏻

[@jacobcruzmusic]

Hey i have have two questions regarding the ac controls. One is if the lever is what controls the fan being on max blast or low. What does the hi and low do on the left side. Also in my 77 to the left of that theres a green light with a switch. I have no idea what its for. Let me know if you do thanks!

[@76vette]

Ok. If I’m understanding you correctly the small Hi/Low switch controls the fan speed for a/c, heat, vent, etc. The left-to-right sliding lever allows vacuum operated doors select functions such as a/c, heater, and do on. When the slider is positioned under the a/c max and normal, IG is using cabin air only. The slider below that one controls the temperature “blend” door so you can direct air into the cabin at a desired temperature. I believe the switch with the green light you’re referring to is for the rear window defroster. I hope this helps.