8x10 Photography - My Workflow

[@alanlacey9437]

Brilliant. 60 years since I handled 10x8

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Alan, that’s a fair while ago.

[@johanvanhuyssteen9217]

Best video on the entire process available on KZbin...that's an easy subscribe for me. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I enjoyed your presentation style.

[@SteveONions]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johanvanhuyssteen9217]

@@SteveONions Oh and the fresnel tape made a massive difference. Have to thank you for that too!

[@ciaranpringle9082]

Brilliant video, Steve. It's great to see your process end-to-end. You are an excellent presenter and speaker - no 'ums' or 'ems' and everything in a logical, well thought out sequence. Keep up the good work.

[@SteveONions]

Thank you 🙂

[@roywilkinson9879]

A great educational journey; and what a fabulous result Steve. Thanks!

[@jimhenry9022]

Steve, thank you. I'm inspired. I have two large format cameras I've never used. One is a Pentacon Mentor Panorama 1 with a Carl Zeiss Tessar f4.5/300mm lens (the largest piece of CZ glass I've ever seen!) and the other a "one-off" unnamed, un-serial numbered jewel of a wooden camera with all 3 dozen assembly screw slots tighted to align in the same direction (!), proprietary-sized film holders, and a Laack-Rathenow Doppel Anastigmat f4.5/18cm lens. (Pictures on request) After seeing your 6-step demo, I simply HAVE to try using both these cameras. I'll use my Covid-cancelled vacation cash to buy what I need.

[@SteveONions]

Those cameras sound like works of art - is definitely have them on permanent display. The lenses sound terrific too, I bet they are stunning to use. What items do you need to get them up and running again?

[@jimhenry9022]

@@SteveONions Thanks for replying, Steve! Yes, they really are works of art, as you say. The Pentacon rail camera exudes an East Germany industrial motif and the one-off wooden field camera is simply gorgeous in design and assembly. What items do I need? The cameras are intact and have multiple film holders. The one-off has its own wooden tripod that's a simple and artistic support. I have a heavy-duty Manfrotto for the rail camera. I also have a handheld meter (non-spot sadly), focusing shade cloths, and the scenic state of Arizona to search for targets. So I don't think I need anything but practice. Steve, I direct the Multimedia Technologies Institute at Estrella Mountain Community College where I teach Photoshop and a few other Adobe products. After pulling my cell phone from my pocket and admitting to my students that I take my "precious snapshots" with it, I tell them that, when I've become saturated with the whole cell phone/DSLR digital workflow, I slow myself down, pull out one of my manual film cameras, and rejuvenate my photographer self by doing all the pre-production recon/settings stuff before going "Click." Some of them "get it" and try film for the first time. I've shot everything from an early Kodak "pocket" folder to a Contax G2 4-lens system to a Mamiya RB67 3-lens system. I've just never shot large format. I think it's time. If you want to see my two biggies and what I eventually produce with them, you can email me at my college at [e-mail] Now I'm going to load some outdated 4x5 Portra 160 in the Pentacon. Wish me luck!

[@steveonions4819]

@@jimhenry9022 It sounds like you are going to have great fun with the two cameras Jim, providing you find time to press the shutter in between all the people who will be asking you about the amazing devices! I'd be really interested to see the results if you get time to email a few scans - please include shots of the camera's themselves too. I sometimes shoot digital and love my iPhone but I only really feel comfortable shooting film in whatever format I have with me. Being able to make black and white prints in the darkroom is the icing on the cake and something I never fail to be thrilled by. All the best - Steve

[@smalltimer4370]

8x10 will be my final destination in photography - slowly working up-to it, and really looking forward to getting there Love your video's btw - excellent sources of encouragement and education

[@SteveONions]

Thank you, glad you found it useful.

[@Nat.ImagesLarge.F.Photographer]

Impressive ,great video,I wish you and your family a Happy and Peaceful Christmas ,all the best, waiting for a great light in 2021!!!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Nat and all the best to you too 🙂

[@Nat.ImagesLarge.F.Photographer]

@@SteveONions 👍

[@jhenline7813]

Thankyou Steve for a very informative and interesting video.

[@phillipP8848]

Hi Steve. It is great to see your complete process and work flow. As always an easy and smooth presentation with clear discreption of your thought process. Reminds me that I must get out my intrepid 4x5 mk2 and put it to some use. Great video Steve.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Phillip and I hope you have great results with the Intrepid.

[@alanstanway6118]

One of the best presentations I have seen on LF photography workflow. I strongly suspect many viewers will now be itching to get started maybe not with 8X10, but of course the same principles apply to 4X5. I remember only too well first using a monorail for product photography so fully appreciate that advice like this is invaluable to those new to the process. Excellent Steve!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Alan, as you say, 4x5 is pretty much the same just easier. I also used a monorail at first and I’m amazed I carried on after using it in the field (just the once).

[@dorothykloss5303]

I love that you went through the entire process giving details of how to scan a large negative and tips on using Lightroom . I never tried adjusting the histogram, I will have to try that next time. Great Vlog as always! Maybe we'll see 8x10 pinhole in the future?

[@SteveONions]

I’m glad you found it useful Dorothy. I’d definitely consider doing Pinhole with the 8x10, I have on on a lensboard somewhere.

[@bobpollack6894]

Next to a8x10, nothing can touch a print like a large format. Then 4x5, 6x6 medium format. Extra effort breeds excellence.

[@SteveONions]

Very true Bob.

[@RichardSilvius]

I just needed to say again, this was amazing. It doesn’t give me the desire to shoot 8x10 as much as it fills me with respect and admiration for the photographers who have created timeless work using such a difficult process. Thoroughly enjoyed it and subbed. Thanks again!

[@pdp11]

Great presentation and a fantastic image!

[@SteveONions]

Thank you Aram.

[@distagon6052]

Love those ferns.

[@ashfaque_1]

Never thought about widening the threshhold to capture more highlights and shadows in the Epson scanner software. Thank you very much for sharing the tip and your workflow, Steve. Subscribed few days ago! :)

[@SteveONions]

Thank you, I’m glad the information was useful.

[@IAmPraki]

Most excellent! Now I am a bit terrified of making the jump from medium to large format after watching this.

[@SteveONions]

It is quite a big jump Praki, unlike other film or digital formats there are so many things you need to get right. Once you get the hang of it though it becomes second nature and you forget about all the steps involved. Hope you give it a try soon 🙂

[@IAmPraki]

@@SteveONions Thanks for these videos again and I hope you keep making more. I have been watching one or two everyday and really enjoying them.

[@thomaspinches9518]

I’d love to try 4x5. 8x10 seems crazy though - such huge negatives!!

[@nickfanzo]

Hard to beat 8x10 contact printed.

[@davehanner360]

Fantastic video! Very clear and concise! I just ventured into 4X5 and this makes me now want to try 8X10 :)

[@SteveONions]

Have fun with the 4x5 Dave, 8x10 is just all the same problems but bigger!

[@tadeusz11000]

Brilliant, Steve. Old school, very watchable, informative and a top presentation.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Tad 👍

[@tgchism]

Thank you for taking the time to share this process with us! I may never get around to shooting anything so large but I love learning about the process! Nicely done!!

[@Jake-hn5gn]

I might be a bit late to view this video but nevertheless what an interesting and informative video. Thanks 👍

[@SteveONions]

Glad you found it useful Jake.

[@JC-xx5dm]

These scans look damn sharp. Even off an Epson Id imagine these could be printed quite large ?

[@SteveONions]

Very large, easily 50 inches wide.

[@gregbeeke584]

Thank you for making this excellent run through of the image making process. A great demonstration of skill, control and patience.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Greg.

[@terrywbreedlove]

I have an 8x10 enlarger but a 4x5 camera. Got to work on that 😝

[@SteveONions]

Could be worse Terry, imagine the other way round!

[@jbairdexp]

Fascinating as always Steve, but I missed the bit where you inserted the memory card? 😀😀👍

[@SteveONions]

It was an 8x10 memory card from the mid 80’s Julian, the 64k is just enough to hold two images 😀

[@jbairdexp]

@@SteveONions Retro!!! lol

[@jacobsack]

thank you for reuniting me with Tears For Fears, Everybody. and for teaching me about large format

[@mcroman-superfeat]

THX for sharing all this genuine info on the INTREPID @ 8x10 Format ...

[@guyrhodes]

I've had problems with Newton's rings appearing on my scans when laying film directly on the V700 glass as you have here. Do you ever have this problem?

[@SteveONions]

It usually OK emulsion side down with Black and white materials. Always more of a problem with colour which is shiny on both sides to some degree.

[@JOSEKLRANGEL]

What a nice video.. I do really like this one.. 8x10 is just awesome. thanks for the detail of your workflow...

[@SteveONions]

Thank you 🙂

[@leeblevins6698]

When loading film, the white side is out for unexposed and the black side is out for exposed. Don't forget to flip them over when you shoot.

[@World_of_OSes]

That download link in the description doesn't work.

[@SteveONions]

I’ve removed the link, I no longer use Flickr 👍

[@ChrisEdgecombePhoto]

Fascinating insight into the 8x10 film process in your style, thanks.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Chris.

[@tonyb2760]

Thoroughly enjoyed the presentation and your steps in conception, to final print. Beautiful image indeed. Thanks for sharing

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Tony.

[@bernardkelly235]

Bravo, Steve. This was really useful. Thanks for taking the time to explain how you apply front standard tilt.

[@SteveONions]

I’m glad you liked it Bernard.

[@JohnTomasella]

Excellent video Steve. I always look forward to your uploads.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks John.

[@redone2612]

Excellent, love your videos and work.

[@ManCalledMif]

Stunning detail with large format 👏🏻

[@DomenicoPescosolido]

Hi excellent video, I use a similar process and similar stuff (I did a video too) but I’m using a 4x5 folding camera.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Domenico, the process is identical for 4x5 and I also use a compact folding Intrepid model.

[@davidburn9472]

Thanks for that Steve, great to see the whole process. i'm looking forward to getting my 4x5 & starting my large format journey 👍

[@SteveONions]

Good luck David and I hope you enjoy the journey 👍

[@dleach02]

Question, if you were not processing your own film, how do you deliver the negative for processing at a processing lab?

[@SteveONions]

I’d use an old film box or possibly an 8x10 paper box with the included dark bag David.

[@sandrag.3855]

Very useful video. 100% informative, great step by step explanation of your workflow. Even if not everyone starts with 8x10 or 4x5 now, your scanning and post production steps are very helpful and adaptable to all kinds of film.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Sandra, I hoped it would be useful to show the entire process.

[@alanbamford2264]

Always an absolute pleasure to watch a true craftsman at work. A fine example of how to combine the best of analogue and digital photography. Unfortunately I now spend more time watching repeats of your videos than actually going outdoors and doing it myself. I think I will grab another beer now and watch a few more.

[@SteveONions]

Shame you can’t get out more Alan but if it means you stay in and watch my videos then that’s a silver lining, for me at least 🙂

[@sobrasuda7607]

Thank you! This vlog mad the process clearer for me. Do you have any tips to teaching photography for kids?

[@christiancardona9889]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKnQkKJtmsaioKc

[@sobrasuda7607]

@@christiancardona9889 Thank you !

[@DavidLaCivita]

This was fantastic! Thanks for this. Inspiring me to get a large format camera.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks David, I hope you enjoy the journey.

[@ridealongwithrandy]

This is really cool, always wondered how the big format worked from end to end, nice job!

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Randy 👍

[@brentdrafts2290]

Always good to see I'm not the only darkroom nut. I mostly shoot and print color in 120 formats. I've been kicking around getting a 4x5, as I have quite a bit of film in storage. Mainly recently I've been having to purge some of my color paper, which has gone for the green. I do wildlife..birds and squirrels..and Forrest comps as well. Thanks for sharing.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Brent, your film is probably worth quite a bit now. Paper is more of a problem, especially colour which does seem to go off after a while.

[@Bass-guitarist]

Hi Steve, great Vid. Up until this year I was shooting with 4x5 regularly, unfortunately I couldn’t justify or afford 10x8 but I’ve had some amazing images from the 4x5. I have now sold all my 4x5 gear and just use Medium Format, 35mm and Digital. I miss the tactile enjoyment of 4x5 but not the weight and restrictiveness of large format to “fair” weather photography. Thanks again Steve and keep up the good work. Regards Graham.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Graham. I do enjoy using large format at times but overall it is just too restrictive for most situations. 120 and 35mm are a lot more practical for the climate here.

[@alfredv9902]

I was going to buy 8x10, then switched to 617 format. With 2 shots, one for forgeround, one for sky, you can stitch, but in most cases, the sky you can just drop in using photoshop and mask. I scan both using the Nikon 9000, which gives me far more quality then using 8x10 film on a Epson. Also, less hassle....I can carry 120 roll film in my shirt pocket rather then heavy/bulky 8x10 film holders, camera is smaller, I can shoot handheld, no darkcloth needed, comes with FINDER .The Fotoman finders are quite accurate, once you get used to them, by observing the ground glass till you learn. Also, far more practical in wind (no bellows to act as sails). Easy to pack with.....what you have is a 5x7 camera. If you are into tele lenses, then it is not the camera you want, but most do landscapes between 90-180mm. If I need to use my tele lenses (Nikor 360T) , I switch to a 4x5 field camera with a 612 Horseman back. Or go Chamonix 617, but then you need a dark cloth (I hate using them). Frankly, other then the 8x10 experience viewing on the groundglass, there is no point going to 8x10 if you are going to scan on a Epson. Quality depends not on the camera lens, but the scanner. I got around it using 120 film and the Nikon 9000 scanner, or get a Plustek film scanner...several models out there.

[@SteveONions]

Sounds like a very practical setup Alfred. I also find the 6x12 back extremely useful on the 4x5 to save on film costs and ease the processing burden.

[@sekaf4125]

Excellent, well done. Love your step by step approach. I thought it was a lot of work with my medium format. I really enjoy your process. With your talk about computer slowness I just giggled to myself. I just upgraded to the latest Mac computer with the new Apple silicone. AMAZINGLY fast. I’m sure your about to do the same thing. It totally changed my workflow. Thank you again for sharing your workflow

[@SteveONions]

Salvation arrived in Nov 2020 when I got the new Max Mini with the M1 chip and I’ve never had performance issues since. It works so well with Final Cut Pro that I never need to render proxy copies of each clip and outputting even a long 4K video takes only a few minutes. I also have a 14” MacBook Pro with the M1 Pro chip and I don’t think the fan has ever come on!

[@oldfilmguy9413]

Excellent, thank you Steve! Itching to get into 8x10 with the Intrepid, but baby steps first with 4x5. One question - what is your drying process/conditions - there is where I seem to have difficulties as my 2-1/4 and 4x5 always end up with dust. Thanks

[@SteveONions]

Dust is a real pain, I prefer to warm up my office in advance then hang the film above the radiator and leave the room as quickly as possible. This leaves few if any fibres, thanks partly to the carpet tiles being a cheap nylon mix.

[@stuartbaines2843]

Excellent image and process walk through 👍 I like to use a finger nail to lift film edge once loaded to check for correct loading. Inspiring idea with Autumn just around the corner 🙂

[@SteveONions]

Always important to ensure the film is correctly seated. I’ve also suffered once or twice from having two sheets stuck together in the holder.

[@stuartbaines2843]

Recently bought some new Toyo 8x10 holders and found the film gap really tight Patience was needed to feed in the film

[@SteveONions]

Mine are fairly worn and very easy to load. Those new ones are really expensive.

[@jasongold6751]

8x10 is the ultimate size! It is rich in detail. I've seen actual Edward Weston prints! He contact printed with a light bulb. They were really not sharp, light is better focused "Calier" effect. EW corners were tragic. Lousy lenses. Those are the faults, but the actual print seen was magnificent. Your system almost captured me! Alas too old and too weary to haul that box.. Bravo.

[@SteveONions]

There's so much detail it really is overkill Jason, 120 roll film does 95% of what I need.

[@ConstantinSPurcea]

Modern tripod are just not made for the sheer volume of an 8x10. It even looks ridiculous seeing that monster on what is in reality a relatively hefty tripod. You might need to invest in an old fashioned wooden-legs tripod with a big head/plate to keep it from vibrating.

[@SteveONions]

I’ve yet to have a large format image ruined by any movement so I think I will stick with the lighter tripods for now.

[@richardwheat9280]

Steve, thanks very much for the video, I appreciate the trouble you have taken to show your workflow, very informative. Just one clarification if you don't mind, you list your lens as a Nikkor 300mm W f9 - but surely it's actually an "M"?

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Richard and yes, it is an ‘M’ 👍

[@Topsyrm]

Great insight Steve, just curious though why you don't go the whole way and wet print? I've been inspired by your med format (SQ-Ai) stuff and have bought one with various lenses and am now starting my own journey in film photography (used to only have film in the old days). Would love to see more of your med format stuff.

[@SteveONions]

I would love to print this image in the darkroom but it would have to be a contact as I have no enlarger remotely big enough. A small print seems to get overlooked on videos so an A2 was made to show some of the quality 8x10 can deliver. I’ll be making a future video comparing the Lightroom and darkroom approach to print making at some point.

[@lonniepaulson7031]

I like your channel. You shoot with a variety of cameras even pin-hole. I am an old guy, I have been in photography since 1969. I have had formal training in photography and used all types of cameras and worked professionally for studios and labs and freelanced. I am retired now. I notice many You Tube video channels that teach photography really should not be on You Tube. Some do not know enough to teach, but you do a very good job. I looked to see how you loaded your holders; I saw a former You Tube video where some guy from the UK was teaching how to shoot with a 4x5" camera. He loaded the holders backwards. When he loaded the film he had the black slides out and after he exposed the film he had the white or silver slides out. I told him he was doing it wrong, but he was telling me that he was doing it correct. I guess if you're doing photography by yourself as a hobbyist, it really dose not matter. You just need to be consistent with yourself. However, if you work for a lab or a studio or another photographer you better use the industrial standard. I always found it easier to load 8x10" over 4x5". It seemed the sheets went in faster. I was working for a catalog studio and loaded film for other photographers. If I loaded the film wrong, a lot of money would be wasted. I just want to conclude that you do a good job on featuring various films and cameras. Since I like color, I would like to see you shoot Kodak Ektar 8x10." The UK has a lot of overcast skies. Soft saturated color would look just great. I live in Arizona, it is usually sunny and no rain.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Lonnie and I agree on the consistent approach that should be adopted for large format. If I didn’t stick to the rules I’d waste a lot of film. Good case in point, I shot with the 8x10 last week after a long layoff (2 years) and I knew that two of the holders had a good sheet still loaded in each thanks to my standard notes on the slide. Sure enough I took the pictures and both developed just fine.

[@jenniferray8257]

Lovely! So you don't have any trouble with Newton Rings when you're simply scanning like this? The few times I've tried scanning 8x10 on flatbeds the files have proven unusable and I had thought I'd need to wet mount.

[@SteveONions]

Hi Jennifer. I’ve found that the emulsion side of FP4+ and HP5+ are quite Matt and this does not cause the dreaded rings. Something like Tmax could be a lot more problematic.

[@AwesomelyAwesomeO]

hi Steve, may i know which film holder do you use during scan 120 film? I find the original epson holder not doing a great job. Thanks!

[@SteveONions]

I sometimes use the Epson holder but I prefer the better scanning model, especially when used with the thick anti Newton rings glass.

[@AwesomelyAwesomeO]

Steve O'Nions thanks so much for your reply! Look forward to your new videos!

[@stephan.scharf]

Thanks for showing your whole process, it's very informative for all beginners and also advanced photographers. My advice (I did a lot of research for improving medium format scanning with Nikon scanners): Don't adjust your curves twice in scanners software and lightroom. Try to scan in linear mode and do the rest in lightroom. Otherwise you can loose headroom data for your adjustments in lightroom. Subscribed ;-)

[@SteveONions]

That’s very good advice, thank you. It is always a challenge making good scans especially if the negative is overexposed.

[@thomassaxo]

Excellent! I was not aware of the paterson tank you are using, and that prevented me from going up from 4x5. Now I know how to develop 8x10"! Thank you!!

[@SteveONions]

Glad to be of help Thomas 👍

[@RobinsBookClub]

Really enjoy your videos Steve. Re the Fresnel dont suppose you do the same for your 5x4? If so any recommendations for my intrepid MK3? Thanks :)

[@SteveONions]

I do use one with the 4x5 Robin, usually just with the 90mm wideangle though. Any old plastic sheet will do, I have some thick ones and also a very thin sheet which does a good job of evening out the illumination.

[@RobinsBookClub]

@@SteveONions thanks, will get on to it. Looking forward to your next video as always.

[@raybeaumont7670]

Many thanks for this Steve. Very well illustrated throughout. Informative and educational. My largest format is 4x5 with the negs processed in an old paterson 8x10 print drum - 2 sheets at a time - rolled about on my kitchen table. Primitive, but it works.

[@SteveONions]

I’m all in favour of simple processes that work Ray, one of the best things about film photography is being able to knock up solutions using basic materials.

[@victordianow5973]

Great vlog, thank you very much, Steve. You have one of the best photography related channels on youtube, very informative and easy to watch. I really like your no-nonsense approach to photography.

[@SteveONions]

Thank you Victor, it is very kind of you.

[@ducatitastic]

Another excellent vlog Steve, a good insight to shooting 8x10. With the negs being quite costly have you ever used paper negs? There's an American photographer/youtuber that has had great success using photographic paper.

[@SteveONions]

Hi Michael. I have tried paper negatives for pinhole but the speed is a real issue with most paper being below ISO 3. I also found the need to pre flash the paper to reduce the contrast, it was a spot and whitewash effect in bright light.

[@yesterdaysjam5467]

Hi Steve, Your clear instruction is truly appreciated, thanks for sharing. love from China.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Juno 😊

[@renepirolt]

Thank you Steve for another fantastic video. It's good to see that there are still large format photographers interested in the craft and and the artistry of creating a meaningful photograph, rather than worrying about the latest technology. I thoroughly enjoy your channel. Please keep up the great work.

[@SteveONions]

Thank you for the kind words Rene, I really appreciate it.

[@thomaspopple2291]

Thanks for the video. Getting ready to start large format myself. 4x5 initially. Been shooting medium format for a couple years but find myself longing for those bigger negatives. Plus the workflow of large format suits my shooting style. Always glad to see a new video from you.Thanks again.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Thomas, the workflow is the same for 4x5 except for the developing stage which is easier with the smaller sheets (plenty of options and tanks/drums).

[@chrisklontz7837]

i get my first 4x5 film tomorrow and me and my graflex are going to the woods. perfect timing on this video. is there any kind of formula for bellows extension compensation?

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Chris, and good shooting tomorrow. There is a formula for bellows compensation but I just enter the measurement in to the Reciprocity Timer app on the iPhone and let it work it out 🙂

[@Uwe_Ludolf]

I scanned over 60 rolls of medium format film in the Epson software. I never realised I could tweak the histogram. I will try the next time, thanks for making me aware of this!

[@SteveONions]

Glad you found it useful Uwe.

[@gchristopherklug]

Brilliant video. Made my Sunday morning here in Western Pennsylvania. You mentioned a LR preset that emulated Ilford Warmtone. My favorite paper as well. Is that something you made or did you get it somewhere?

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Chris. My LR present was done by holding a darkroom print next to the screen and adjusting the LR split toning to match. Simple but effective.

[@erichstocker4173]

It is curious. I was just thinking whatever happened to Steve as I hadn't seen a video in a while. All of a sudden I got notification of a video from you. I really appreciate the entire workflow for the large format. Thanks and please keep the videos coming as you think of topics.

[@SteveONions]

Glad you liked it Erich.

[@trondsi]

So you can actually do 8x10 loading in the dark bag? I thought it is finicky enough with 4x5 (although that does work for me).

[@SteveONions]

It’s is a bit of a struggle and I need to make myself a big wire frame to put inside the bag so I can work more easily. A bit like a cheap changing tent.

[@thomasbernier2342]

Fantastic video, i always love what you do Steve ! You're a big inspiration and you craft is just on the edge of perfection.

[@SteveONions]

Thank you Thomas 🙂

[@Antnie]

Wonderful video Steve, love the composition of the image you picked. How did you avoid getting Newton rings on your film scan. It seems like every time I scan directly on the flatbed I noticed newton rings throughout the image.

[@SteveONions]

Thank you. When I do scans directly on the glass it is only ever with Ilford B&W films and the Matt side is in contact. I’ve yet to have a problem with Newton rings this way.

[@Adrian-wd4rn]

In total darkness, how do you know which side is the emulsion side, and which side isn't? Also, does the direction of the notches matter too much? I.e can I have the notches pointing towards the dark slide handle, or must it be in the direction you have in the video?

[@SteveONions]

The notches identify the film type but their position also tells you which way to load them. They must sit in the bottom left hand side when viewed front on with the slide removed.

[@RandyPollock]

Do you ever use a Lab to develop your negative? or have you tried Negative Lab Pro as a plugin for Lightroom

[@SteveONions]

I do all my own black and white, some colour but also get the lab to do slide film. I am trying negative lab pro at the moment before deciding whether to use it in place or other tools.

[@afrosweet]

First time seing the process of pre-digital photography. Loved it! (Ben Hur 😂)

[@SteveONions]

😊

[@nickfanzo]

I wish 8x10 wasn’t so expensive in color.....sighhh

[@SteveONions]

🙂

[@BelmontHillTV]

how did you apply a warmtone in LR? Also, do you need an RGB scan to do this? I normally scan as Greyscale and edit in PS.

[@SteveONions]

Hi Daniel. I always do greyscale scans then use the split toning option in Lightroom.

[@alantrends5075]

Thank you, Professor Steve for showing all this process. Is there a way to make the print with more shades of greys?

[@SteveONions]

Hmmm, that’s a new one for me - the answer is yes 🙂

[@JimSollows]

Thank you for the wonderful video! I’m just thinking about branching out to large format and you answered so many questions!

[@SteveONions]

Glad to be of help Jim.

[@thdcinema]

love this, cheers ;0)

[@omnesilere]

Never squeegee film, just give it a good couple tugs and the water flies off it, esp rolls of 35mm.

[@SteveONions]

I be we squeegee these days 😊

[@TheGazmondo]

Great accompaniment through the stages Steve. Very enjoyable !

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Gary.

[@4geckofeet]

Thank you, this was a great way to go through the process. You did a terrific job of balancing the amount of detail, and have created a great resource for people interested to learn.

[@SteveONions]

Thank you, I am glad you liked it.

[@iain_grant]

Do you flat scan other sized negatives, rather than using the holders that tend to contort the film, as well? Also which side is meant to be facing down?

[@SteveONions]

I only do 8x10 directly on the glass Iain, I understand it utilises a separate lens in the v700. I always put the emulsion side facing down, the other side is glossy and can cause newton rings.

[@dinomarcantonioaia8921]

Thanks for a great presentation. Do you do anything to adjust your black point when you print, or do you find that no detail is lost in the darkest areas?

[@SteveONions]

I don’t adjust the black point Dino, my monitor is pretty well calibrated.

[@distagon6052]

So, the big burning question is ... Should the monitor be set at maximum brightness for scanning and Lightroom adjustments? I believe this matters to prevent blocking shadows and burning highlights.

[@SteveONions]

You can get most of the information you need from the scanning apps histogram, it is only the mid tone adjustment that is done by eye. I never adjust my monitor once I’ve calibrated it to be honest.

[@distagon6052]

@@SteveONions Understood. Use the histogram then adjust mid-tones by eye. I always found the prints from my Epson all-in-one blocked shadows. So I then go back in and lighten shadows to correct. I never fussed with histogram but, it seems to be key to resolve my print problems. Would you agree? BTW bought a nice ZeissT* Distagon 50mm for my birthday.

[@SteveONions]

I think that correct reading if the histogram helps greatly. I used to love my 50mm CF FLE Distagon, Sharp at every aperture.

[@bobk888]

very good vid, have not for years done any conventional LF stuff. enjoyable. and also a nice print

[@SteveONions]

Cheers Bob.

[@TrailerHomeVideo]

interesting. Hadn't seen the Paterson Orbital before.

[@SteveONions]

It’s very effective and uses only 200ml or less if you’re careful.

[@2zirc]

Thank you for this vlog. It was very informative and almost as good as Ben Hur ...😁

[@SteveONions]

Hehe, thanks 😀

[@philbraithwaite1316]

Perfect accompaniment to my post Sunday lunch laziness. Interesting and engaging as always.

[@SteveONions]

Cheers Phil.

[@stevegarland3387]

Really enjoyed seeing the process from loading film to final print. Thanks

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Steve.

[@DavidPattonPhotography]

Excellent video Steve, a lot of useful information!

[@SteveONions]

You are very welcome 🙂

[@sydhughes6041]

I worked as a London still life Advertising studio photographer 1975-2010. Used every type of camera for 10x8 work, the Sinar P was the most versatile with all the movements. (There was a system and dials to work out depth of field even) and a probe to slide into the camera in front of the ground glass screen to give you very accurate spot readings. I show my 10x8 transparencies to people who have only known Digital, and they are always blown away, especially when it was all shot and done in camera.(pre Photoshop era) Keep posting this work, as when my generation pops it's clogs, the craft may be lost.

[@SteveONions]

Sounds like the equipment was pretty sophisticated for its time Syd, I’ll bet you could work really quickly with it too. I like using digital to record things quickly but don’t feel the same attachment to the results in the same way I do with a slide or negative.

[@sydhughes6041]

@@SteveONions Yes it was advanced equipment, but VERY expensive , but designed to last a lifetime., A 360mm lens for my 8x10 cost me £600 back in 1979., when digital kicked in I sold it for peanuts. People were using 5x4 cameras with scanning backs, and just 150mm lenses.

[@russellsprout2223]

Steve, to save me sifting through three hundred comments; did I notice intermittent film raisers in the base of your Paterson orbital thingy? Are they the customary blobs of glue? Any advice will, as always, be gratefully received. Thank you.

[@SteveONions]

I stick those small plastic screw head covers onto the base to keep the film from sticking. Works a treat.

[@russellsprout2223]

@@SteveONions Great idea. Thank you. 👍🏻

[@russellsprout2223]

Steve, sorry - one more question if I may: do you recommend removing the fins from the underside of the Orbital's lid please? I've done the screw cap mod and am hoping that, that will suffice. Thanks again.

[@andrewfrost8866]

Thank you Steve, very interesting and informative as usual.

[@SteveONions]

Thanks Andrew.

[@somedudecalledben]

Nice one mate, I'm looking forward to shooting on an 8x10 I'll be borrowing from my dad. Because of the price of film I'm gonna shoot it with paper in the darkslides rather than film (and invert it by making a contact print). I wonder if you've (or any other people in the comment section) ever tried this or any similar methods? Best, Ben

[@SteveONions]

I’ve used 4x5 paper a few times Ben. Contrast is very high but it can be tamed a bit by pre- flashing the paper. It’s a whole lot cheaper than using film.

[@somedudecalledben]

@@SteveONions yeah I did kind of preempt that being the case. I'll give pre flashing a go

[@mrdolby]

Excellent informativ piece!!!