Building A Sliding Barn Door

We finally got around to building a sliding barn door for our closet! If you've seen the walk in closet video series you'll know we intended on installing a sliding barn door and three and a half years later...here it is!
SUPPLIES:
Smartstandard Barn Door Hardware: amzn.to/3HtzV5A
Rubio Monocoat Finish: amzn.to/3eNW3LL
Favorite Sandpaper: amzn.to/3eNW3LL
EQUIPMENT:
45 degree chamfer bit: amzn.to/3GUeuNX
Flush Trim Router Bit: amzn.to/3VDQovd
Makita Palm Router: amzn.to/3ii4nIC
Westcott Ruler: amzn.to/3qXVEvm
Machine Square: amzn.to/3e0b7WB
Mini GluBot: amzn.to/3k2Ac7c
10" Makita Chop Saw (the small one): amzn.to/3qyfJqY
10" Compound Miter Saw (the big one): amzn.to/2ZgI8Gf
Clearmount Miter Saw Station:
Table Saw: amzn.to/3mkTVwV
Wood Glue: amzn.to/2HlA4OU
Clamps: amzn.to/2KRWZTC
Sander: amzn.to/3lY5tG0
Yeti Mic: amzn.to/3jSJEXu
Camera: amzn.to/2Gxp2W9
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[@gamike8898]

Nice...really like how you cleaned up the edges.....i didn't do that on my first set of doors but starting on my second set soon so i want them to be just a bit better....thanks !

[@johnyoung8305]

Thank you for posting this video. I'm about to build bifold barn doors for my laundry room (not enough walls space for a slider) and this is incredibly helpful. Well done!

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! I’d love to hear how it goes!

[@jasonperkins6847]

Very nice. About to do a couple for my wife. Very helpful thank you.

[@frankhouck4446]

Ok - I would have done a glue up on the vertical boards. Gluing seams will not inhibit expansion/contraction - which happens across the grain. The cross batons, however, can cause issues. Those could be attached with slots and visible hardware to allow that expansion.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Good idea! Thankfully I haven’t run into any issues yet, fingers crossed

[@JTD1105]

Great to see the Amazing Ally.

[@allaboutcanines]

I love how easily you made this. I thought I'd have to get help, but maybe only when I'm putting it up. I have a wood supply place where I can get unusual woods, but will likely stick to Doug Fir or clear pine. Thank you for making the video.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

That's a great idea! I think doug fir would look really nice and its a dream to work with!

[@barryvankoughnett4207]

Looks good thanks for the share

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thanks for watching! And thank you!

[@martinmeasures829]

I'm just about to do the self same thing, but being an amateur diy'er I couldn't figure out the technique for the build, but you've inspired me thankyou, I'm using inch n 3/4 x 5 1/2 milled pine, captured before going into a chipper, I know it's going to be heavy, it's getting fixed to an old masonry litntle, I'm going to beef up the litntle with two new timbers fixed deep into the masonry, I'm also installing two new legs over the existing ones. But anyway thanks for your ideas. Martin in the 🇬🇧

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Glad you found my video helpful! I think you're in good shape for your build! I think that milled pine should look and smell great.

[@helookalikaman79]

The X boards (not with Cherry to expensive to waste on a mess up) I would make both boards fit snug then mark the intersection on the two boards and the door as well.. Cut the board and install.... and if you want the lines (the routing lines) you could also have each board (4) meet in the middle, instead of the one long and two short

[@SamMacyDesigns]

That's a great idea! Thanks for the suggestion 😀

[@rogercoates3189]

Nice job, One question ?? no one talks about the location of the rail above the existing door header,.. 2 inch for placement of rollers, what about the vertical height / location of the top of the door itself , ie. carpet or hard wood floor (for vertical adjustment) ??

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thank you! Sorry for the delayed response. As far as the vertical placement of the rollers go I ended up taping a 1/4" piece of wood to the bottom of the door and then put it in place to mark my holes for the hangers that bolt to the door (this was all done after I had installed the rail above the door) then when I bolted the hangers in place and removed the piece of wood from the door it hung with a 1/4" gap between the door bottom and the hard wood floor. You could probably do the same thing with carpet and use something a little thicker like 1/2 plywood. I hope that makes sense

[@medik13]

Hello. Great video. I didn’t see any mention to which router bits you used and sizes in your equipment list. Can you please list them? I am new to routing and am tackling this barn door project. I like the way you beveled the verticals ever so slightly and trimmed off the overhang. I just need to know what bits you used to accomplish that. Thank you.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thank you! Great questions. Here's what I used ( I also added them to the equipment list), the biggest thing is you want your shank size on your router bits to match the shank size of your router. Most of the consumer grade tools like the ones I have all use a 1/4" shank. Routers are a great time saving tool, I'm sure you'll find all kinds of way to incorporate them into your woodworking! 45 degree chamfer bit: amzn.to/3GUeuNX Flush Trim Bit: amzn.to/3VDQovd

[@todds1278]

Nice job. Ty.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thanks so much!

[@lloydbannister8062]

Great job buddy nice work

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@simondegroot4885]

Nice project! I recommend the optional slow close system that you can buy with it. It really improves the experience of using the door.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

I didn’t even realize that was a thing! Thank you, I’m definitely going to get one! It’s a pretty heavy door and it bangs off the rubber stopper pretty hard at times so that will be a game changer

[@Killmode29]

Love it!! All but one thing. The fact that the door doesn’t travel far enough to the left. So it looks like it shortens up the entrance by 2-3 inches. Which isn’t a big deal. But it would bother the hell out of me.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thank you! I agree with you haha I contemplated drilling new holes so they lined up with the studs and it would clear the doorway but I got impatient. I might do it some day!

[@Killmode29]

@@SamMacyDesigns totally understand. My biggest issue sometimes is I don’t bother to slow down and see what issues could come up down the line. Like for me this would have been an oversight and I wouldn’t catch it till after the job is done. UGH!!!!

[@joelsmith2974]

nice work, im building one of these for our master bathroom

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Oh that’s awesome! What wood are you going to use?

[@joelsmith2974]

@@SamMacyDesigns probably Maple. I made two of these for another spot in our home out of pine, but I’m afraid the moisture from the bathroom will not mix well with a soft wood like pine

[@SamMacyDesigns]

That's smart! Maple is one of my favorites, that would make a heck of a study door lol

[@britishbuilds7433]

I just built a door and missed the slot at the bottom. What is that little jig for your router? Thanks

[@SamMacyDesigns]

I think it's just called a "guide bar" or router guide of some sort. It came with the router and I think one comes with most palm routers that are available

[@MrRdt1970]

hi thinking of sliding dorr for bathrrom how would i lock it from inside is there a special lock you get any help please

[@SamMacyDesigns]

I'm not familiar with any locks like you're talking about but I bet if you looked into locking mechanisms for pocket doors you could find something that might work. They're similar style doors, I hope that helps!

[@chrisfabish5928]

Looks great! Now that it's been up for a while, any issues/updates on wood movement without gluing/doweling/biscuiting (?) the vertical boards?

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thank you! And none so far, there's a very small gap in one of the vertical boards that was there when I built it but with the little chamfers you can hardly notice it.

[@asnawihasan5136]

the height of the ceiling in US are too short, maybe just 2,6 m ~ 3 m in average.. but in my country here, Indonesia, its almost 3 ~ 4 m high..i dont know why

[@SamMacyDesigns]

I’m jealous!! I wish our ceilings were much higher

[@silverbackag9790]

I wouldn’t buy cherry from a big box store…simply because I like to keep it from one tree for color consistency months down the road.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

That's great advice! I does tend to change color pretty heavily as it ages

[@rebar-king]

Rails and styles…stiles?

[@SamMacyDesigns]

There you go! I think the spelling is stiles? That sounds right

[@stephensnyder693]

why cant we see what was installed at the bottom. Every video on youtube for these doors completely hides the bottom of the door.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

It’s just a tiny plastic tab that’s supposed to guide the slot I routed in the bottom. I didn’t show it because I ended up removing it after I broke it haha 😂 I don’t think they’re necessary

[@MAGAMAN]

Wow, he even couldn't even find a properly sized track kit for the door. There is a whole bunch of useless track on one side of the door and there isn't enough track on the other side to completely open the door. The door is also undersized for the opening. The sad thing is there are a whole lot of people out there that think he did a good job. He didn't.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

😂 Time for you to take a break from the internet. Thanks for your input

[@darylyohn2929]

That’s fuckin amazing!!

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thanks so much!! Cheers!

[@MAGAMAN]

Doesn't glue the planks together because he "Wants to allow for wood movement" but does glue the top and bottom cross boards on. That is some peak retardation right there. He literally did the opposite of what he should have done to allow for wood movement.

[@davidslater5403]

Great video except the music

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Thank you!

[@HandyTim]

Here's how I did a barn door kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZTTnoOhjLqbfrM

[@SamMacyDesigns]

Nice job Tim!

[@HandyTim]

Here's the finished product kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXnLmoqbr85-n5o

[@rippermantwo]

Just get to the project. Back off on all of the production stuff. Just showing up to learn how to make this. Everything else is just time wasted for me.

[@jeffp5991]

I would demand my money back if I were you. 😂

[@sikosis999]

lrn2engrish . . . . whom ever bought you that shop, love them forever because you have no business around that equipment >< i heard half a dozen things to go along with the complete muppetry of the physical build. . . .the final insult to injury the fuck'n door isn't mounted correctly because apparently math and common sense aren't taught where you're from . . . gotta love armchair 'wood workers', not.

[@MAGAMAN]

Haha! Most of the people who watch these videos are completely clueless about wood working. Almost everything this guy did was wrong from the build to the install. If you don't want to glue up the boards, use tongue and groove so they don't warp everywhere like they seem to be starting to do from his comment. If you are too concerned with wood expansion to glue the boards together (lol) you sure as hell should be too concerned to clue boards cross-grain across the top and bottom of those boards. What he did was create a situation where if there is ever enough humidity the boards are going to try to expand, but because they are glued at the top and bottom are going to cause the boards to twist and warp in the center, which will cause a massive problem. Using proper carpentry instead of just gluing and nailing boards together (something any idiot can do) would have prevented this. This is clearly a case of more money than brains (talent). My guess on the reason the railing is so out of wack is that he didn't consider stud spacing when they "built the closet", so he didn't install any boards that would have allowed him to put the railing where he wanted, instead of only on the existing studs. This guy should have been too embarassed to post this video, but stupid people don't know enough to get embarrassed over things like this.

[@SamMacyDesigns]

You guys need a break from the internet 😂