Will It Start // Chrysler Hemi 5.7 Engine Rebuild Completed // Chrysler 300 Episode 5

[@kellyjohnson7208]

Purrs like a kitten now. Sounded like my powerstroke when it first started! 😁 Those are great cars and great motors. I still like that body style. I like your fill cap idea too, simple way to remember what's empty and not to forget it👍

[@ReignitedAuto]

It can definitely be concerning when you first fire it up if you're not expecting it!

[@markfrieden-ib8gz]

I know this was from 2 years ago but I just saw this video and wanted to comment on pulling the fuel pump fuse so that the engine won’t start immediately to allow the oil pressure to come up and start to lubricate the engine. This is a great idea but you don’t have to pull the fuel pump fuse. These cars have a “clear flood condition” procedure which does the same thing. With the engine off press the gas to the floor and then turn the key to start it. The fuel pump is off and will remain off as long as you hold the gas pedal down. I do this after each oil change for a few seconds to get the oil flowing before it fully starts. I really like your channel and have been watching it for a while. I have a 2008 Dodge Magnum R/T and a 2009 Chrysler 300C. I do most of the work on these cars myself as a backyard mechanic. I love working on them and learning more about them.

[@angturil]

I live in Europe, I absolutely love these cars and I'm about to buy one once I find the rare gem, even if I know that the Hemi has a lot of issues! Call it masochism. A huge thank you for all of your very informative videos, a real treasure here on youtube! Keep up the good work

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate you watching, more 300C content coming soon! A different one anyway...

[@nflores5433]

I used the overfill plug on the coolant before when I replaced the thermostat. Worked just fine. Good stuff bro!

[@TheSPORTS504]

I watched all episodes, Dana white made this look easy, who knew,👍👍👍👍👍

[@ReignitedAuto]

😂 haven't gotten that one yet

[@PROJECT637]

Great job brother very detailed video! I’m a Certified Kia Technician so I build and install short blocks pretty simple but our 3.3L V6 engines are a little bit more complex. I also drive a 2019 Dodge Charger 5.7L which I’m looking to do a cam swap and delete my MDS system all together. Your videos have helped me tremendously thank you and keep up the great work!💪🏼💯

[@ReignitedAuto]

Appreciate that man, nice to see a fellow tech on here! 👍

[@Bartheo]

Amazing thank you for making these episodes, helped out a lot

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching!

[@darrininverarity4297]

That’s impressive,great work

[@bigtd7399]

Man I bought a 2006 dodge durango 5.7. I didn't have a lot of money. But the guy sold it to me said. It runs great. And it did for like a week . Now I have this dodge and no way to really fix it. So I loved this dodge but now I wondering how to get it back on the road.. I found that they used a head gasket sealer and its starting to leak again. Man really thought this thing was great. But it is a problem. It only has 128 THOUSANDS miles on it. But I love these videos it helped me to understand the problems I have with it.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Sorry to hear about the issues you are having, but the good news is the Hemi is a pretty straight forward engine to work on, so if you feel confident tackling it yourself I'm sure you could do it. 👍 I'll have more Hemi based videos coming soon that should help if you decide to rebuild it. Thanks for watching!

[@miked9104]

Great video thank you! I’ve got a ‘14 Ram 2500 4x4 with the 5.7 HEMI and I’ve got a bit of surging / hesitation between 2-3.5k RPM’s on acceleration. I suspect the common lifter issue but we will see. Very good tips and info in your video in the event I have to tear into things. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thanks for watching! 👍

[@leeperry1999]

Good video. I wonder how many have turned the key with no oil in it.

[@ReignitedAuto]

I promise I've never ever done that........😬🤔😄

[@williamwhite9767]

I can't get the plug out of the water pump on my 05 Magnum Hemi so I use one of those large funnels that connect to the radiator cap position that can be mounted up high. The air burps out in a few minutes filling the system the first try.

[@rafaelfuentes7572]

Bro thank you my first start went smoothly my 5.7 is ALIVE!!!!!! ITS ALIVE!!!!!! Sorry I’m just really happy my first built went awesome.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Sweet! 👏👏👏

[@juliolozano602]

Bro my dad and i should finish installing my rebuilt engine today! This video made me so EXCITED! its been down for about 9 painful months

[@juliolozano602]

Congratulations as well Rafael Fuentes! I hope i can say the same after today my guy . If i can like you post multiple times i would 💪🏾

[@rafaelfuentes7572]

@@juliolozano602 Hell yeah bro that’s awesome. All your hard work will pay off 👍👍. I’ve been driving my car everywhere. Seattle is like an hour away from where I live I’ve been driving back and forth.

[@rafaelfuentes7572]

@@juliolozano602look me up on Facebook I have pictures of the engine and a video of my first start up. Rafael Fuentes JR it’s a picture of me and my son sitting down at a restaurant.

[@oemytech]

Put a purge valve in the place of the plug in the water pump.

[@bleesal]

Thanks again for your videos, as an old-school car guy I grew up rebuilding small block Chevy and Mopar engines with my dad, who also was a line mechanic for a Dodge dealer back in the late 50's and early sixties. It had been about twenty years since I got into a full rebuild - and I'd never tangled with a hemi until now, and it wasn't something I looked forward to but with your help, my 5.7 is back in the car, and it runs great (although I've only got 250 miles on it so far). I do have a question though, regarding break-in, the last engine I went through completely was a Mopar 360, and as usual, I ran a good 20 weight for 500 miles through break-in, and then changed to 30 wt. On the 5.7, I went with 5-20 (Mobil 1) and as per the owners manual of my 300, planned to change it out at 300 miles with the same brand and weight. Someone mentioned that I should have run a break-in oil first - one without zinc for engine longevity or some such thing and I find I'm second-guessing myself about something that I can't substantiate, I noticed you went with Pennzoil (5-20?) I wanted to get your opinion/thoughts on that.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Love to hear that you were able to get it done yourself! As far as break in oil is concerned, no worries, just run the oil you have in there. The break in oil is more for older engines. If you went so far on your rebuild to hone the cylinders and install new piston rings then the break in oil makes sense. But if you just replaced main bearings/ rod bearings ect... then it's not an issue. The new camshafts also do not need break in oil.

[@bleesal]

@@ReignitedAuto Thank you very much for your time on that - yeah the engine dropped the valve seat on #4 cylinder and well you know the rest, however while the pistons and head took a pounding I was surprised how good all the bearings and journals looked, very little telltale wear but I replaced everything but the crank anyway. I went ahead and installed all 8 pistons and an MDS delete kit, and used a tuner to shut it off at the ECU. After all was said and done, I almost enjoyed the work, and I hope to keep the car for a long time, your videos provide a valuable service to guys like me so thank you and all the best to you.

[@sagiriizumi8079]

I owned a Dodge. Such an awful experience. Everything BUT the engine was good. Never ending troubles

[@myopinion7393]

Great content. I think I want to tackle my Hemi rebuild for the Dodge Magnum.

[@ReignitedAuto]

If you haven't seen it yet we're working on a magnum on the channel right now! First engine rebuild episode comes out tomorrow morning. 👍

[@myopinion7393]

@@ReignitedAuto no I haven’t! I will be on the lookout. I have an 05 RT with a bad head gasket. I said I may as well just do the rest while I am in there.

[@vinny3725]

Awesome man thanks I’m gonna be doing mine here soon

[@bbtomy28]

I have an 04 hemi 1500 and the engine was rebuilt but I have no crank at the key I jumped.the started solenoid and it cranked over then some came out the back of the intake manifold and then I tried it again now no crank at all with jumper wire

[@tommyschmidt2194]

I own a 2006 hemi 300c. The engine pistons dropped about 5 years ago. The vehicle was parked outside for for 3 years and two years in the garage. I have watched many of your videos and read your reviews. Are you still in business repairing Chrysler 300c hemi. I would appreciate a response for further discussion rebuilding my car.

[@alialex118]

Nice

[@chukchee]

Very nice.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Thank you, and I appreciate you watching 👍

[@gamedogboxing437]

I love what you doing. keep up the good work. I've been watching a channel for a while now. I have a problem. I was wondering if you could give me some advice? I recently had my lifters rods replaced I'm my hemi 5.7. the car was taken to the dealership to get it looked over. But for some strange reason my lifters keep making a loud tapping noise is it anything that I could do to calm that down?

[@ReignitedAuto]

What exact parts were changed? Were the parts factory parts? Did the noise only appear after the parts were replaced? Let me know and I'll see what I can do 👍

[@eranbenbassat6296]

Hi, first of all, great video series of this rebuild! I would like to consult with you about something.. I have a 2010 jeep commander with the 5.7 hemi vvt mds..around 120k miles on it. The car overheated and coolant was flowing into cylinder number 6 only, it didn’t mix with the engine oil. The block and the pistons are in good condition, only the head gasket was toasted at first glance. When the heads were sent to be pressure checked, one valve and valve seat teared so I kind of had a luck with that. Any way, many of the other valves on both heads are a bit displaced. I am considering of purchasing two rebuilt heads. My question is, if there is a risk of putting rebuilt/new heads on old block like different pressure that will harm the crank or pistons and eventually cause an excess of burning oil or any other bad thing? What do you recommend? Thanks

[@ReignitedAuto]

Nope, I wouldn't have any concerns about putting rebuilt heads on the original block. 👍 One thing I would say to look out for though, make sure the heads are using factory valve springs. I really have not had great luck with aftermarket Hemi valve springs. Hope that helps, and thank you for watching!

[@ron101552]

Ok. I have to ask. What’s with the orange gloves? To protect your hands? I’m old school. Honestly I don’t understand what that’s about. In my day a mans hands told what he did and how hard he worked. I’ve tried them and you just don’t get the feel you need to get when working on machines.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Yessir, it's interesting because I started wearing them about 9 years ago now, and now I can't work without them, and for the exact opposite reason you stated. Most people will judge a person by their hands, and when you're a mechanic, it's plainly obvious for the world to see what you do. While I am proud of my profession, I got tired of people judging my capabilities based on that. So the gloves help with that, plus, not getting chemicals all over your hands for years on end is a nice bonus. Appreciate you watching Ron!

[@loricunningham8357]

Got a second generation Dodge Durango 5.7 hemi does the harmonic balancer have a gap in between the crankshaft seal in the harmonic balancer why is there a Gap in between harmonic balancer is on all the way and still a gap any advice

[@loricunningham8357]

Need some advice

[@av8tore71]

Coolant system tool not very expensive.......$225.00 on Amazon for some that is expensive! Yeah I have tools working on airplanes about $75K worth of SNAP-ON & Mac well $75K is not a lot for say but some areas on the plane no other tools can fit or work as well as SNAP-ON or Mac

[@av8tore71]

Sounds like a tank 😂😂

[@jra210]

And do I have to crank the engine for awhile before trying to actually start it?

[@josea.1102]

My car started to make that ticking noise . Do you thing i can drive for at leat one year like that?. Also one of my local mechanics put some thicker oil. And the ticks are still there but less louder. But the car still drives. But has misfire code in all cylinders.

[@jacquelbledsoe4257]

Where yu located at

[@shrekbbb]

Great Series of videos, I do have a question my car has over 2000k miles and think of the rods tools crap. Do you recommend to rebuild whole engine or just replace the knocking rod or piston? What type of kit do you recommend? Should I have the block machine or hone? I would like to try and do it myself.

[@ReignitedAuto]

At that kind of mileage I'd be looking at a full rebuild. However, you won't know how deep to go with it until you take it apart and look at it. Honestly, with no prior issues I don't think there's any problem with just doing a quick hone job and slapping some new piston rings on it. New main bearings, new rod bearings, new lifters and all new gaskets/seals. As far as kits go, I don't have a good source, but to be honest for the main/rod bearings/lifters go I'd be using factory parts, you don't want to take that apart that far any more than you have to, stick with parts that you know are good.

[@GeorgeSaenz-sd7lg]

Hey, question for anyone but when I put the rods back on, is there anything special I have to do or just torque them

[@ReignitedAuto]

I think the primary thing is make sure they are oriented correctly there is a shoulder to one side of the rod that butts up to the edge of the bearing journal, then when torqueing them you go to 15ftlbs then an additional 90 degrees. 👍

[@micahnyhof]

Another great video, what brand is that coolant vacuum tool? Do you recommend that one?

[@ReignitedAuto]

This coolant vacuum tool is part of a kit from ATD and it's great because it comes with all kind of different caps for different vehicles. I've been really happy with it.

[@micahnyhof]

@@ReignitedAuto thanks for the reply!

[@davidtroia7426]

So how long did it really take from start to finish? It seems like it was about 2 full days of work. But I kno its a process.

[@ReignitedAuto]

It took about 4 days actually, but that's mainly because I was filming. If I were to to it just for myself, yea about two days.

[@sumoij8290]

How long u let it ran before pulling off?

[@MrMopar5151]

What coolant did you use?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Chrysler 5 year 👍

[@josevalenzuela2681]

on my startup started to leak fuel from three different injectors. it wasn't getting fuel. I'm not sure why

[@ReignitedAuto]

Those two statements seem contradictory, if it's leaking from the fuel injectors then it's getting fuel. Also, if it is leaking from the injectors, remove them from the rails and check the o-rings, they are likely torn or cut.

[@josevalenzuela2681]

@@ReignitedAuto replaced all the gaskets with the Mahle set. I will recheck them again today.

[@josevalenzuela2681]

@@ReignitedAuto it turned on heard the rattling sound went away then it turned off. I will try to start it again after rechecking the injectors. Thank you God Bless.

[@josevalenzuela2681]

@@ReignitedAuto Top O rings on 3 of the injectors were torn. I replaced all 8. It started with no leaks. Thanks for the videos. God Bless

[@michaelchupp4925]

How long does it take for the lifters to stop ticking? After new lifters are installed I'm asking cause I done mine in my 13 charger and i went thru the whole mds intervals and drove it for over an hour and it still has a slight tick at idle any thoughts on what I should do?

[@santinodavenport1823]

Did you figure this out ? Bc mine is as well

[@derricas256]

I have 2011 chrysler 300c 5.7l change out the water pump engine fan still running hot trying to figure what the problem could be

[@ReignitedAuto]

Three options I can think of off the top of my head: Did you change the thermostat as well with the water pump? Radiator possibly half plugged, or most likely you've got air trapped in your cooling system after the water pump replacement. 👍

[@derricas256]

Yes sir new thermostat and new thermostat sensor as well never change out the radiator or the condenser

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@derricas256 First thing I would do is remove the allen plug in the front of the water pump. Fill the cooling system through the resevoir cap until coolant pours out of the plug. Then reinstall the plug and top off the coolant. Run the vehicle through 2 full heat cycles (all the way cold, thermostat open, all the way cold again) and see where you are at. If there's still an issue after that then I'd be looking at either a radiator issue or possibly even a plugged heater core. Are you getting heat from the vents?

[@stunna0014]

Hey man i finished my first rebuild it went well but i went to drive it after letting it idle and its letting out a good amount of smoke out of the passanger side exhaust when giving it gas.. Any ideas? thinking head gasket is leaking bit not sure

[@ReignitedAuto]

What color smoke is it? Any smell to it?

[@xerophaneash2136]

Does anyone know if and where I can get the bolts for the hood lift struts. Specifically the ones that attach to the fender

[@blitz_dracula1923]

Junk yard. Thats where I got my second one

[@carlhorton2925]

I had the exact issue with my 06. I rebuilt it, and followed your instructions on priming etc, and the only thing I didn't do is take it for a long drive, because the battery wouldn't stay charged, but the tick never went away. I only had it running, at idle for about 10 mins, and then drove it to the gas station, about 3/4 of a mile one way, but the tick is so pretty prominent. Should I drive it a little longer, maybe highway speeds so the mds can kick in? It fires right up and idles so smooth, but that first initial start up clatter, hasn't went away yet... but like I said, the engine has only been at idle for about 10 mins, and then drove about 30mph to the gas station, then home. Any suggestions?

[@ReignitedAuto]

It usually needs at least 20min to really settle down. I prefer highway speeds myself, but idle time will work usually 👍

[@carlhorton2925]

@@ReignitedAuto thanks a lot man. I really appreciate you replying. I've done all the work myself, and my car has been down since September last year. It just sucks to be able to start it right up now, but not be able to drive it. Lol. So do you think I should take it in the highway for a few miles? Anything you think I should check out first before I drive it at highway speeds?

[@ReignitedAuto]

@Carl Horton it runs perfect, just ticks a lot still? If so then absolutely drive it for about 20 minutes and see if they settle down. If it's stumbling or not idling well then you might have a pushrod issue and you'll want to address that first.

[@carlhorton2925]

@@ReignitedAuto it idles smoother than it did before the valve seat issue. Just ticks still, like it's not quite lubricated. Also, when I drove it to the store, to air up tires that first time, it did act like it missed a little on acceleration. Like I said, I only drove it about 30mph, so, when I got the pistons in, lubed and connected, push rods lubed and in and rocker arms in, I rotated the engine, by hand, by the crank with a ratchet, just to make sure the engine turned like it should, and to make sure nothing was bound up. I turned it about 10 rotations or so, so the mild stutter on acceleration, could that be my crankshaft positioning sensor? I done a little research, and the symptoms matched, so I purchased one, but just haven't installed it yet.

[@ReignitedAuto]

@Carl Horton highly doubtful on the crank sensor. But don't overthink it. Drive it first. See if it clears up.

[@John-4649]

Thanks for these videos! I’m probably going to need to rebuild my HEMI soon too, and for the same reason. Except mine got hot before I could pull over and stop. Water pump failure, but it still runs fine. Just idles down in steps after you rev it up 🤦🏼‍♂️ are you near DFW by any chance? 😂

[@johnlawson910]

When it turned over and fired up... that HAS to be the best sound in the world.

[@ReignitedAuto]

Always is 👍

[@jville533]

I love your videos. They've been really helpful with my 5.7. Keep em coming. I saw this video a few weeks ago and COMPLETELY forgot about how this sounded on start-up. I took my time making sure I paid attention to what I was doing tearing it down and I did everything right putting it back together and got my 2014 Ram 5.7 back together after replacing the drivers side head swap due to broken valve spring and valve guide. It's been a few months since it has been running, mostly due to my wallet said so, I started it and this is the way it sounded, but being gun shy from when I was trying different stuff to try and diagnose what turned out to be the spring, and ended up breaking the valve guide, I shut the truck back down immediately, thinking it had jumped time from all the clattering it was doing. So I went through all the shit needed to drop the oil pan on the 4wd trucks, swapped the timing chain AND DID THE HELLCAT OIL PUMP UPGRADE. When I get it all back together this time, I'm going to remember this and let it run to get the lifters pumped up.

[@ernestoflores5146]

I changed my head and valves and push rods and it’s making the same noise is it okay ? Or I neeed go drive it first?

[@marcelocenora7208]

one month to start mine 5.7! thanks a lot for your informations..

[@quychang4471]

What brand coolant vacuum tool did you use to fill the system? I'm in the market for one and would love some suggestions.

[@ReignitedAuto]

I used a kit from OTC, but Astro tools makes a very similar kit here: amzn.to/37kBqDo

[@blue03r6]

when I worked as a yamaha tech I made a forced engine lube system with a old tire air tank using the oil galley plug. this is something you have to to do LS engines. you can actually buy them from summit racing or jegs. I think melling makes them. I had a 2.2L that even with pre lubing the engine via a makeshift luber through the blocked off distributor hole it never stopped ticking. I had to pull the head off a brand new engine. after that, I dont trust they will stop on their own.

[@icarusfx84]

This has been an AMAZING series. I'm in the middle of doing a very similar project. I have a question you may be able to answer. I have a 2013 Chrysler 300c AWD with a 5.7 and spun a rod bearing. As a project, I got a hold of a 2014 300 SRT8 and did an engine swap. It seems to have been plug and play (except for swapping the oil pan and having to get the exhaust around the transfer case. I have 3 issues that I'm having trouble finding someone to help me with cause it's a now a Frankenstein car. 1) The power seems a bit low. I kept the 5.7 ECU cause when I plug in the 6.4 ECU the car starts and shuts down after 5 seconds. 2) As soon as I roll over 10 miles an hour, I'm getting a Service AWD. 3) I also have the ABS and Traction lights on permanently. Let me know if you can help. I'm willing to pay someone for information, but haven't found too much info.

[@ReignitedAuto]

That sounds like a very interesting project, and unfortunately you're going to need the help of an aftermarket tuner to solve your issues. The reason the car dies after a few seconds on the 6.4 PCM is it's not seeing the proper key for that vehicle. It's a security feature. That could be turned off using an aftermarket tuner, however, it won't fix your AWD issues. The power is low using the 5.7 PCM because the tune is all wrong for that engine, doesn't have the right injector size programmed ect... Your best bet in this instance is to find someone who can tune the stock PCM using a piggyback style tuner for the new engine. As far as the AWD stuff goes, it's likely that the system needs to have an ABS calibration procedure performed. If possible, see what codes are in the ABS module and get back to me. 👍

[@icarusfx84]

​@@ReignitedAuto Thanks for the reply. I've called about a doze garages and so far no one wants to get involved. I did reach out to Nick from Nick's Garage KZbin channel. And, while he works on older cars, he's going to try and help me find someon. It seems like KZbin has become the true place where people want to explore and try things. I'll try and find a tuner, like you said. Out of curiosity, I actually have the key from the 6.4 PCM and brought it with me to the car, but no luck. I'm thinking if I can't get help to start learning about TunerStudio and taking on the task on my own. I have a background in Computer Science, so I'm thinking that may help. Thanks so much

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@icarusfx84 Yep, I can almost guarantee that no shop will want to get into that, it becomes a snowball issue that they then become married to. Easier by far to just say no. But I think it's a pretty cool swap. Unfortunately the key is only one part of the equation, when you start the vehicle using the key, it sends a signal to several antennas throughout the car that report back to the radio frequency hub (module) that verifies the key is correct for the vehicle and allows it to keep running. If it doesn't receive that signal within 5 seconds it shuts off. I would recommend getting started with tunerstudio. I used megasquirt on one of my older motorcycle projects, very capable system. The one downside of it, is that there are no safeguards, at least there wasn't when I was using it. Basically, whatever value you put into a table, that's what it'll do, no matter if it'll melt down your engine or not. So just be careful about that. If you do get it working properly I'd like to see it!

[@matthewperry7812]

Nice work Sky!

[@dustin9967]

One note about the oil filter...I have a 6.2 Hellcat based motor...that thing loosens itself every single time if i hand tighten.

[@jra210]

My camshaft need to be replaced so I did so put everything back in the way I took it out now my truck turns over but won’t start any idea why that may be?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Does the engine try to start at all? Like does it pop or sputter, or does it just turn over without even trying to start?

[@jra210]

I forgot to get the oil pressure up once I did that it started right up but now it starts but when it idles down it turns off slowly no engine codes or anything

[@mryoungt]

If i rebuild my 5.7 hemi do i need to tune the car ?

[@ReignitedAuto]

If you are just rebuilding it to stock specs then no 👍

[@mryoungt]

@@ReignitedAuto Ok thanks a lot ,,,, just asking because i’m changing my oil pump to an high pressure pump

[@eugeniodavila8160]

What’s the torque spec for connecting rods ?

[@FireManSRTTV]

Is there any other procedure for priming the engine or new oil pump before starting? Or is pulling the fuel pump fuse the easiest way?

[@TysLifeLies]

With most newer models including the car in this video, you just have to hold the gas to the floor and crank it. The system cuts the fuel and spark and it won’t start.

[@oemytech]

A dry oil filter?

[@rudywarner397]

How much would that job cost

[@ReignitedAuto]

More than the car is worth honestly, probably around 6-7k

[@rudywarner397]

@@ReignitedAuto cuz I have the same car I'm just wondering but if you knew what's her open loop and closed loop due to efficient temperature? Crank won't start

[@ReignitedAuto]

@@rudywarner397 do you have a specific code that is setting? Lots of reasons for a crank no start, but first thing I would do is disconnect the fuel line at the rail, stick it into an empty bottle and turn the key on, make sure you're getting fuel pressure before doing anything else. 👍

[@captainobvious5993]

I use the green 50/50 mix

[@bigphill4838]

When you installed the engine and connected the flywheel back to the torque converter that involves turning the crank correct? So did you have to find TDC again?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Nope, TDC is unimportant after you install the timing chain. The PCM handles all the ignition timing 👍

[@bigphill4838]

@@ReignitedAuto thank you for your help boss !

[@geoffreyfloyd5901]

Been following along this series to help with my cam swap, when I go to start the engine, it will only run if I hold the RPM at around 1000-1500. Once I let off the throttle the engine dies out. Any thoughts?

[@ReignitedAuto]

Any codes? a couple of things come to mind. The cam timing could be off a tooth, or the pushrods might not be seated correctly, it's very easy to get them out of place and not seated in the lifter end. Another possibility is if you have a vacuum leak, like if you didn't hook up the vacuum line to the brake booster. I would check for codes, and if possible pull the valve covers and inspect the pushrods to make sure they are all in their proper place. Also, when it's running, does it run smoothly or does it sputter or stumble? Hope that helps!

[@geoffreyfloyd5901]

@@ReignitedAuto multiple cylinder misfire, cooling system performance, O2 sensor voltage high. It seems like it’s running really rich. Running compression tests now

[@geoffreyfloyd5901]

@@ReignitedAuto sorry, didn’t see the whole comment initially. When I have it at the higher RPM registers it seems to run okay

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

how frequent would a thrmostat or oil cooler go bad and cause no heat on a 07 dodge charger 3.5..?..

[@ReignitedAuto]

If the thermostat was not opening then you would have no heat, but the vehicle itself would usually be overheating as a main symptom. In my experience, the most likely causes of no heat are low coolant, due to a coolant leak. Or the HVAC blend doors are not operating correctly. 7/10 it's an issue with low coolant. 👍

[@johnsmith-qz4bv]

@@ReignitedAuto where is the blend door located.?..

[@joeperry8518]

Ha sounds like an old 2 cylinder diesel until the lifters fill up then nice and quiet easily hiding the power it has. Can’t wait to see what you do with it!

[@ReignitedAuto]

I know I probably seem nonchalant about the noise initially, but that's just how it is 😄. I have often wondered about trying the old trick of submerging the lifters in oil for awhile before installing them, but who has time for that? 😂

[@selfdependent1218]

best so far man